Previous to 1850 farming on the
Borders was very different from what it is now. Low Berwickshire better known
as the Merse was a wheat country. Toward the western boundaries of the country
mixed husbandry prevailed, while on its northern line, by Lauder and Westruther
and eastwards by Duns to almost St. Abbs Head, the old-fashioned, easy-going
sheep farmer still pursued his methods. Before the above date John Clay was
tenant of Winfield and he came upon the scene of agriculture when a new view was
opening up. The Reform Bill of 1832 had led up to the Free Trade measure of
1846, but a more powerful pulsation was moving the whole world. It was the
introduction of steam on land and water. True it is that the genius of
Stephenson had given the world the locomotive years before and steamships had
been used more or less, but it was not till nearly the middle of the century
that the climax came. The change in agriculture as in other things was radical.
Wheat growing declined, stock raising and feeding increased. The country village
decayed; the town increased in wealth and population and poverty, for these
three are bedfellows. The silence of the valleys was broken by the shriek of the
locomotive. Few could fathom the depth or the breadth of the changes that were
to come. It was not the lamp of Aladdin nor some fairy power that made the
change. It was the inevitable movement of cheaper transportation and rapid
transit. It was pathetic to see the old carters, who had braved many a blast on
Soutra Hill or had wended their way from Kelso to Berwick-on-Tweed, drop by the
wayside as the iron-horse came careering ona great juggernaut crushing all in
its path. Not Caesar or Attila or Napoleon had ever such influence as
Stephenson. Their changes came by the sword, the fierce stalking giant of war
covering with his mantle fields of blood and carnage. He came with dove-like
flight, borne on wings of peace, and yet it made misery in many a home. It
revolutionized conditions and the old conservative ways are only given up after
a fierce struggle, for the victories of peace are often as cruel as those won by
the ring of the rifle or the shotted gun. It was at this era in history that the
subject of our memoir came to his manhood and calling. He had little money, but
he got a cash credit at a bank through his father's signature. Farms were then
generally full back rented. Thus if you entered any Whitsunday you did not pay
any rent till the second Martinmas, and even then you got a month or two's
credit. This was easy for the tenant. It was not so easy for the landlord, who,
however, was protected by what was known as the law of Hypothec, of which more
hereafter. The general creditor had to take all the risk, but with economy a
fair start could be made on very little capital. Then in those days the boll
wage was general all over Berwickshire. It is obsolete now, but it does not
follow that it was the worst system physically. Under it no better class of
people ever were seen than the Berwickshire hinds and their families. Clothes
might be scanty, but the brose and the porridge gave bone and sinew, and the old
parish schools developed intellect. This system called for the farmer using
little ready money. The quality of the labor was of a high standard and the
quantity kept down the price. Robert Harkess, who came as a hind during the
early fifties to Winfield, had been working in Swinton Quarry at 1/6d. per day.
With no work there was no pay. With a maximum of 9/- per week he had to pay
house rent and rear a family. A better workman never trod in shoe leather. The
boll wage at that time was
5 Loads Oatmeal (100 Stones ),
3½ Bolls Barley,
1200 to 1600 Yards Potatoes,
A Cow kept,
A free house and garden,
Coals driven free,
Meat in harvest,
£5: 0: 0d. in cash, and
occasionally 1 Boll Wheat.
Under this system food was
certain. A pig was also kept and probably two a year were killed, and most of it
salted down. The butter from the cow gave the housewife money for groceries and
clothes. Under the present system it is doubtful if the children fare as well as
in the days of old. Women workers were plentiful. The "bondage" system was in
vogue. It meant every hind supplying a woman worker from his house. If he had
daughters, good and well. If not, he must go to market and hire a "bondager."
The system was degrading. It was a degree better than the bothy system of other
parts of the country, but that is all one can say. Drainers and orra men were
also plentiful and a farmer had no anxiety on these scores. The drifting to the
town of the surplus labor was only in its infancy. Under these conditions good
farming was the order of the day. At Winfield intense energy was thrown into the
work. The double hedges were rooted out, at least one of them; the big ditches
were filled in, the land was ploughed deep, the fences were well kept; when a
new lease was taken lime was freely used and under-draining made great strides.
There was a degree of push, progress and perseverance that told a tale of
growing prosperity.
In the Autumn of 1852 the farm of
Wedderlie came on the market. By the death of Miss Grieve, who had adopted
Patricia Thomson and taken her to Eyemouth to live with her, several thousand
pounds fell to the young people at Winfield. By this means the above farm was
taken and entered upon at Whitsunday 1853, and here began an era of success. The
dormant hillsides began to bloom. The bent and the heather were judiciously
converted into arable land. Thousands of cartloads of stones were taken from the
land and made into dykes. When no stones were available wire was used. When the
land was broken lime was applied in generous quantities, under-draining was
vigorously pushed and a transformation scene was brought about. The family lived
here in summer and in winter went back to Winfield. Wedderlie and Ellemford were
on the market at the same time. Bids were made on both places and although his
uncle by marriage owned the latter place, he did not get a chance at it on
account of a condition being made that it would only be let to a resident
tenant. A Mr. Murray got it, but at the end of five years he failed. John Clay
was trustee on his estate. William Elliot, one of a large and prosperous family
of farmers, took the farm and was very successful on it. It is rather a strong
coincidence that Elliot left Ellemford at Whitsunday 1905 and the name of Clay
was severed from Wedderlie at the same time.
With two blades of grass growing
in place of one, other things changed. Cheviot sheep on the lower hirsel gave
way to halfbreds, and the blackfaces produced grayfaced lambs. In the former
change the financial advance was great, in the latter it was always a doubtful
question. The carrying power of the farm was doubled and during the heyday of
sheep farming, more especially during the American
Civil War, the profits were large. The practice for many years was to draft the
wether half-bred lambs to Winfield during the month of August, weaning time
being about the 15th of that month. These lambs were roughed in winter, grazed
in summer, and then about the following August forcing for market commenced.
Tares were cut early and fed to them as the pastures failed. Then they got six
weeks turnips with a liberal allowance of cake and corn, and went to the knife
weighing close to twenty pounds per quarter. The wool and the mutton made a
grand profit. Nowadays a Berwickshire farmer would be termed a lunatic if he
followed such a plan. But in those old days when big cuts were in demand, when
wool sold high, the bank account waxed large upon this system. And it was given
up with regret, for it suited the farms to work in this line. From 1853 to 1867,
when John Clay went to Kerchesters, the two above mentioned farms worked in
close harmony. The stock from the hill farm was drafted to the lowlands and
finished off, and in summertime the farm in the Merse supplied horses and carts
to push forward the work of improvement on the upland place.
Those were happy days for the
tenant and his family. The tree was bearing fruit for the home and grew steadily
in numbers. The business was successful under rigid economy both outside and
inside the house. The mother lilted with pathos the old ballads, told stories to
the wondering children, weaving the folk lore of the Borders into romances that
dwell in memory. The babbling Blackadder was a constant source of joy, for it
was full of trout in those days, and its limpid waters served for a daily bath.
The echoes of its song are ringing still. It gurgled and sang and played through
a scented meadow, full of blue bells, yellow daisies and nodding violets, blue,
gold and yellow in riotous profusion amid the grass that was changing from green
to gray with ripening seed, and then at last the scythe came along and flowers
and grass lay low scenting the summer air with an aroma of Araby. Beyond were
fields of golden grain, the oat with its tangles dropping gently, shimmering in
the sunshine, shivering when a cold blast swept across its path. Fields of
turnips interspersed, their greenery sometimes broken by a wave of scarlet
poppies or mildewed by drought. Further still the purple heather, sweeping in
gentle lines to the Twinlaws, the sky-line dotted with fleecy clouds. Many an
evening we climbed the hill and drank in the scene. The ideal had then if
possible more to say than the real, and yet with all the glamor of youth
flushing with roseate hue our simple lives it would be difficult to think of
nature in a better garb. You were away from the throbbing world. There amid the
ozone of the hills you had the odor of the pinewoods, the glory of the heather
with its delicate incense, the shifting shadows on the purple hillside; and
westward as evening came the sun in silent majesty dropped behind the woods of
Spottiswoode, whose stately Dame had given a new insight to the story of Annie
Laurie. Then you walked back in the softening twilight, into the old-fashioned
sitting-room with its Chippendale furniture and its smouldering peat fire. The
family gathered around the table, family worship was held, the mother leading
the singing; then came the simple supper and soon after we were all oblivious to
the shifting sands of the outside world.
At Whitsunday, 1863, John Clay of
Kerchesters turned over to his son the hill farm of Lanton Lees and Blackrig.
They were then bare, bleak places stretching from Kyle's Hill to Harden's Hill.
They carried a blackfaced stock of medium quality. The valuation was left to
Thomas Penny, then of the firm of Penny & Fairbairn. Penny was a genius in the
auctioneering line. He had a glib tongue, but his ready wit was never biting,
for he left out the sarcasm and the object of his sallies always joined in the
laugh. His honesty was proverbial. He was a short man with a pock-marked face,
very genial, a grand toddy drinker, for he loved the social side of life both
wisely and well. He preached and practiced moderation, yet there was scarcely a
gathering he was absent from. He had a grand business, but he was too easygoing
in money matters ever to make a fortune. Yet he stamped his name in indelible
characters on the Border land.
The stock from the above places
was drafted direct to market and did not ally itself with the other two farms.
In the days when John Clay began
to farm there were a. wonderful lot of men in the Merse who had either taken
farms or inherited them from their fathers. There is no hesitation in saying
they were great men intellectually and physically. Probably to-day they would
not survive, because they had not the drive or push necessary at this era, but
they knew their business and they were favored with fairly prosperous times,
and, as said above, they had a sufficiency of good labor at low rates. It was
the heyday of the farmer more than the laborer. Turnip culture was in full
swing; the wheat days and bare fallow were passing, and instead of marl, guano,
bone meal and phosphates were being used. The land responded to this new
treatment. The country wanted more and better meat; the brewer and the distiller
wanted barley and the Merse was well able to supply its quota of the above. Far
and away the most prominent man, not only in the Merse but in the whole country
at that time, was John Wilson. He was then farming Edington Mains and Edington
Hill, lowland farms by the banks of the Whiteadder and the farms of Rawburn and
Scarlaw in Lammermoor. He was, however, unable from the state of his health to
do much practical work, so he turned his abilities to literature and he gave to
the world "British Farming" and the article upon agriculture to the Encyclopedia
Britannica. For many years John Wilson and John Clay were close neighbors. They
sat in the same church; they served at the same Communion Table, and the one
imbibed much from the other. Wilson was not a driving master; he was easy-going
in his methods, an excellent farmer, but he had not the close business methods
of his neighbor. He was content to go along in his old way and it served his
purpose well, for he retired after a long tenancy of the above farms to spend
his latter days in ease and affluence at Duns. Very few men can write about
agriculture and farm well. Wilson could do both. Theory and practice went hand
in hand, especially in the culture of the soil. As a stockman he had to leave
much to others on account of his health. Aside from all this, his moral worth
was of the highest standard.
The typical old-fashioned fanner
was found in the Messrs. Herriot James, William and David. They were big men
physically and intellectually, but slow, easygoing. They understood the culture
of the soil but they never got beyond handling a single farm. As men they stood
out in bold relief, whether at market or kirk. James, who was always called "the
Laird," on account of his property of Herriot Bank, was a silent, shrewd man,
wonderful at absorbing news and ideas, and consequently in a single-handed crack
he had few equals, and no superiors among his cotemporaries. He farmed Leetside
and Herriot Bank. They were what are known as clever places and he managed them
splendidly. Having been at school together he and the tenant of Winfield kept up
a close intimacy. He acted as best man at his wedding. Then he took unto himself
a wife who is still alive and very active. A large family resulted and the
intimacy of the fathers has been more or less continued by the children.
Robert Glendinning, farmer at
Broomdykes, was also remarkable in his way. He was more progressive than the
Herriots, but unfortunately he lost his hand by accident and his brilliant
intellect was affected by it and he died at a comparatively early age.
Further away were hosts of good
men: James Calder at Swinton Hill; Robert Calder at Kelloe Mains, and Adam
Calder at Blanerne; John Allan was at Billie Mains; the Elliots were at
Lamberton; Abraham Logan at Hassendean. John Blackadder near Chirnside, a great
wit and master of repartee. One instance we must give: He farmed on the estate
of Ninewells, the agent being Thomas Bowhill of Ayton, a very clever country
lawyer. The proprietor having died he was succeeded by a gentleman who belonged
to a curious religious sect called the Society of Angels, or a name to that
effect. Shortly after the new succession Bowhill met Blackadder and accosted him
in rather a facetious manner thus: "Aye, Mr. Blackadder, you'll be grandly off
now, having an angel for a laird." "True, true," replied Blackadder, "but
unfortunately I've got the deil for a factor."
The above were a great coterie of
men, all of them now gone, who made farming famous in the Merse. Berwick market,
then as now, was the rendezvous for the Border farmers. There every Saturday
they went to meet the grain and other merchants in the Exchange. Old John Clay
was gone, but his son Patrick reigned in his stead, and he in turn was succeeded
by his son John, and at his death the business passed away into other hands.
Adam Darling was then in the fullness of his great vigor. The Hendersons,
Crossman and Paulin were there, also, the Carters, who were just coming on the
scene. James Allan, of Allan Brothers, was there to look after his wood
business. But the most unique character of all was Joseph Ruddick, cattle dealer
and Bohemian. He with his two assistants, Thomas Lurm and James Dixon, were
landmarks in our memory not easily effaced. To the younger generation it would
be a revelation even to think of Laird Herriot and James Dixon running a foot
race, the former being an easy victor. Ruddick was altogether an extraordinary
character. He had a fine head set on a large body which was supported by a very
feeble, badly made pair of legs. He made you think of Napoleon, for he had a
mobile face and a quick, active, decided manner. In his early days he was a
splendid business man. Through the week he was over all the Borders buying stock
principally sheep. Those he dressed mostly at Berwick and there we first saw
in a rude way the dressed meat business. The blood was saved and sent to his
farm and some attempt was made to utilize the offal. The carcass was shipped to
London. Every Saturday he adjourned about noon to a room in the Kings Arms Hotel
and settled for his stock bought the previous week. Champagne unfortunately
flowed like water, and latterly the meetings finished in an orgy. When he came
to the vicinity of Winfield he generally dined at one of the farm houses. The
best was always put forth and the bargain for the stock generally finished over
a bottle of port. The neighbors were invited and many a time Laird Herriot,
Robert Glendinning, Alexander Turnbull, then tenant of Dykegatehead, and various
others would foregather to see the stock and hear the bargain. The dinner was at
three o'clock and Ruddick generally left about eight. After he went the others
played whist and went at the toddy again, for while Ruddick drank port the
others had "hot Scotch." Nowadays business is done differently, but under the
above conditions many thousands of pounds changed hands. Ruddick did much for
the farmers of Tweedside but unfortunately nothing for himself. His brilliant
mind became clouded and he sank down into an obscure old age. But be was a
brilliant meteor flashing across the agricultural sky, and the world after
having petted and cajoled him turned its cold hand against his generous heart.