A
disputed boundary—Sources
of the Mississippi—The fur
traders push
southward—Expedition up
the Missouri—Lewis and
Clarke meet Nor'-Westers—Claim
of United States made—Sad
death of Lewis—Lieutenant
Pike's journey—Pike meets
fur traders— Cautions
Dakotas—Treaty with
Chippewas—Violent death—
Long and Keating fix 49
deg. N.—Visit Fort
Garry—Follow old fur
traders' route—An erratic
Italian—Strange
adventures— Almost finds
source—Beltrami
County—Cass and
Schoolcraft
fail—Schoolcraft
afterwards succeeds—Lake
Itasca—Curious origin of
name—The source
determined.
The
Treaty of Paris was an
example of magnanimity on
the part of Great Britain
to the United States, her
wayward Transatlantic
child, who refused to
recognize her authority.
It is now clearly shown
that Lord Shelbourne, the
English Premier, desired
to promote good feeling
between mother and
daughter as nations.
Accordingly the boundary
line west of Lake Superior
gave over a wide region
where British traders had
numerous establishments,
and where their occupation
should have counted for
possession.
In
the treaty of amity and
commerce, eleven years
afterward, it was agreed
that a line drawn from
Lake of the Woods overland
to the source of
Mississippi should be the
boundary. But, alas ! the
sources of the Mississippi
for fifty years afterward
proved as difficult a
problem as the source of
the Nile. In the first
decade of this century it
was impossible to draw the
southern line of Rupert's
Land. The United States
during this period evinced
some anxiety in regard to
this boundary, and, as wo
shall see, a number of
expeditions were
despatched to explore the
country. The sources of
the Mississippi naturally
afforded much interest to
the Government at
Washington, even though
the convention of London
of 1818 had settled the 49
deg. N. as the boundary.
The
region west of the
Mississippi, which was
known as Louisiana,
extended northward to the
British possessions,
having been transferred by
Spain to the United States
in 1803. A number of
expeditions to the marches
or boundary land claim a
short notice from us, as
being bound up with the
history and interests of
the Hudson's Bay Company.
LEWIS
AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION.
Of
these, a notable and
interesting voyage was
that of Captains
Meriwether Lewis and
William Clarke, of the
United States army. This
expedition consisted of
nearly fifty men—
soldiers, volunteers,
adventurers, and servants.
Being a Government
expedition, it was well
provided with stores,
Indian presents, weapons,
and other necessary
articles of travel.
Leaving Wood River, near
St. Louis, the party
started up the Missouri in
three boats, and were
accompanied by two horses
along the bank of the
River to bring them game
or to hunt in case of
scarcity. After many
adventures the expedition,
which began its journey on
May 14th, 1804, reached
the headquarters of the
Mandan Indians on the
Missouri on October 26th.
The
Mandans, or, as they have
been called, the White
Bearded Sioux, were at
this time a large and most
interesting people. Less
copper-coloured than the
other Indians,
agricultural in habit,
pottery makers, and
dwelling in houses partly
sunk in the earth, their
trade was sought from
different directions. We
have seen already that
Verendrye first reached
them; that David Thompson,
the astronomer of the
North-West Company,
visited them; that Harmon
and others, North-West
traders, met them; that
fur traders from the
Assiniboine came to them;
that even the Hudson's Bay
Company had penetrated to
their borders. The Mandans
themselves journeyed north
to the Assiniboine and
carried Indian corn, which
they grew, to Rupert's
Land to exchange for
merchandise. The Mandan
trail can still be pointed
out in Manitoba.
A fur
trader, Hugh McCracken,
met Lewis and Clarke at
this point, and we read,
"That he set out on
November 1st on his return
to the British fort and
factory on the Assiniboine
River, about one hundred
and fifty miles from this
place. He took a letter
from Captain Lewis to the
North-West Company,
enclosing a copy of the
passport granted by the
British Minister in the
United States."
This
shows the uncertainty as
to the boundary line, the
leaders of the expedition
having provided themselves
with this permission in
case of need.
In
dealing with the Mandans,
Captain Lewis gave them
presents, and "told them
that they had heard of the
British trader, Mr.
Laroche, having attempted
to distribute medals and
flags among them; but that
these emblems could not be
received from any other
than the American nation,
without incurring the
displeasure of their Great
Father, 'the President.'
On December 1st the party
was visited by a trader,
Henderson, who came from
the Hudson's Bay Company.
He had been about eight
days on his route in a
direction nearly south,
and brought with him
tobacco, beads, and other
merchandise to trade for
furs, and a few guns which
were to be exchanged for
horses. On December 17th
Hugh Harvey and two
companions arrived at the
camp, having come in six
days from the British
establishment on the
Assiniboine, with a letter
from Mr. Charles
Chaboillez, one of the
North-West Company, who,
with much politeness,
offered to render us any
service in his power."
With
the expedition of Lewis
and Clarke we have little
more to do. It
successfully crossed from
the sources of the
Missouri, over the Rocky
Mountains to the Columbia,
descended it to the mouth,
and returned by nearly the
same route, reaching the
mouth of the Missouri in
1806.
The
expedition of Lewis and
Clarke has become the most
celebrated of the American
transcontinental ventures.
Its early presence at the
mouth of the Columbia
River gave strength to the
claim of the United States
for that region; it was
virtually a taking
possession of the whole
country from the
Mississippi to the Pacific
Ocean; it had a
picturesqueness and an
interest that appealed to
the national mind, and the
melancholy death of
Captain Lewis, who, in
1809, when the American
Government refused to
fulfil its engagements
with him, blew out his
brains, lends an
impressiveness to what was
really a great and
successful undertaking.
PIKE'S EXPEDITION
The source or sources of
the Mississippi was, as we
have seen, an important
matter in settling the
boundary line between the
possessions of Great
Britain and the United
States. The matter having
occupied the authorities
at Washington, Zebulon M.
Pike, a lieutenant of the
United States army, was
sent to examine the
country upon the Upper
Mississippi and to
maintain the interests of
the Government in that
quarter. Leaving St. Louis
on August 9th, 1805, he
ascended the "Father of
Waters," and reached
Prairie du Chien in
September. Here he was met
by the well-known
free-traders who carried
on the fur trade in this
region. Their names were
Fisher, Frazer and Woods.
These men were in the
habit of working largely
in harmony with the
North-West Company
traders, and, on account
of their British origin,
were objects of suspicion
to the United States
authorities. Pushing on
among the Indians, by the
help of French Canadian
interpreters, he came to
Lake Pepin. On the shores
of this lake Pike met
Murdoch Cameron, the
principal British
free-trader on the upper
Minnesota River. Cameron
was a shrewd and daring
Scotchman, noted for his
generosity and
faithfulness. He was
received with distinction
by Pike, and the trader as
shown by his grave,
pointed out many years
afterward on the banks of
the Minnesota, was in
every way worthy of the
attention. Shortly after
this, Pike passed near
where the city of St.
Paul, Minn., stands
to-day, the encampment of
J. B. Faribault, a French
Canadian free-trader of
note, whose name is now
borne by an important town
south of St. Paul. Pike
held a council with the
Dakota Indians, and
purchased from them a
considerable amount of
land for military
purposes, for which the
Senate paid them the sum
of two thousand dollars.
Pike seems to have
cautioned the Dakotas or
Sioux to beware of the
influence of the English,
saying, "I think the
traders who come from
Canada are bad birds among
the Chippeway8, and
instigate them to make war
upon their red brothers,
the Sioux."
About the end of October,
unable to proceed further
up the Mississippi on
account of ice, Pike built
a blockhouse, which he
enclosed with pickets, and
there spent the most
severe part of the winter.
At his post early in
December he was visited by
Robert Dickson, a British
fur trader, described by
Neill as "a red-haired
Scotchman, of strong
intellect, good family,
and ardent attachment to
the crown of England, who
was at the head of the
Indian trade in
Minnesota." Pike himself
speaks of Dickson as a
"gentleman of general
commercial knowledge and
of open, frank manners."
Explanations took place
between the Government
agent and the trader as to
the excessive use of
spirits by the Indians.
On December 10th Pike
started on a journey
northward in sleds, taking
a canoe with him for use
so soon as the river
should open. When Pike
arrived near Red Cedar
Lake, he was met by four
Chippewa Indians, a
Frenchman, and one of the
North-West traders, named
Grant. Going with Grant to
his establishment on the
shores of the lake, Pike
tells us, "When we came in
sight of the house I
observed the flag of Great
Britain flying. I felt
indignant, and cannot say
what my feelings would
have excited me to had
Grant not told mo that it
belonged to the Indians."
On February 1st Pike
reached Leech Lake, which
he considered to be the
main source of the
Mississippi. He crossed
the lake twelve miles to
the establishment of the
North-West Company, which
was in charge of a
well-known North-West
trader, Hugh McGillies.
While he was treated with
civility, it is plain from
his cautions to McGillies
and his bearing to him,
that he was Jealous of the
influence which British
traders were then
exercising in Minnesota.
Having made a treaty with
the Chippewa Indians of
Rod Lake, Pike's work was
largely accomplished, and
in April he departed from
this region, whore ho had
shown great energy and
tact, to give in his
report after a voyage of
some nine months.
A most melancholy interest
attaches to this
gentlemanly and
much-respected officer of
the United States. In the
war of 1812-15, Pike, then
made a general, was killed
at the taking of York
(Toronto), in Upper
Canada, by the explosion
of the magazine of the
fort evacuated by General
Sheaffe. Pike, as leader
on this Mississippi
expedition, as commanding
an expedition on the Rio
Grande, where he was
captured by the Spaniards,
and as a brave soldier,
has handed down an
honourable name and fame.
LONG AND KEATING.
The successful journey of
Lewis and Clarke, as well
as the somewhat useful
expedition of Lieutenant
Pike, led the United
States Government to send
in 1823 an expedition to
the northern boundary line
49 deg. N., which had been
settled a few years
before. In charge of this
was Major Stephen H. Long.
He was accompanied by a
scientific corps
consisting of Thomas Say,
zoologist and antiquary;
Samuel Seymour, landscape
painter and designer; and
William H. Keating,
mineralogist and
geologist, who also acted
as historian of the
expedition.
Leaving Philadelphia in
April, the company passed
overland to Prairie du
Chien on the Mississippi,
ascended this river, and
going up its branch, the
Minnesota, reached the
town of Mendota in the
month of July. A
well-known French
half-breed, Joseph
Renville, acted as guide,
and several others joined
the party at this point.
After journeying up the
Minnesota River, partly by
canoe, and partly by the
use of horses, they
reached in thirteen days
Big Stone Lake, which is
considered to be the
source of the river.
Following up the bed of a
dried-up stream for three
miles, they found Lake
Traverse, the source of
the Red River, and reached
Pembina Village, a
collection of fifty or
sixty log huts inhabited
by half-breeds, numbering
about three hundred and
fifty. We have already
seen how the North-West
and Hudson's Bay Companies
had posts at this place,
and that it had been
visited regularly by the
Selkirk settlers as being
in proximity to the open
plains where buffalo could
be obtained. On the day
after Long's arrival he
saw the return of the
buffalo hunters from the
chase. The procession
consisted of one hundred
and fifteen carts, each
loaded with about eight
hundred pounds of the
pressed buffalo meat.
There were three hundred
persons, including the
women. The number of
horses was about two
hundred. Twenty hunters,
mounted on their best
steeds, rode abreast,
giving a salute as they
passed the encampment of
the expedition.
One of Major Long's
objects in making his
journey was to ascertain
the point where the
parallel of 49 deg. N.
crossed the Red River. For
four days observations
were taken and a flagstaff
planted a short distance
south of the 49th
parallel. The space to the
boundary line was measured
off, and an oak post fixed
on it, having on the north
side the letters G. B.,
and on the south side U.
S. This post was kept up
and was seen by the writer
in 1871. In 1872, a joint
expedition of British and
American engineers took
observations and found
Long's point virtually
correct. They surveyed the
line of 49 deg. eastward
to Lake of the Woods and
westward to the Rocky
Mountains. Posts were
erected at short distances
along the boundary line,
many of them of iron, with
the words on them,
"Convention of London,
1818."
His work at Pembina having
been accomplished, Major
Long gave up, on account
of the low country to be
passed, the thought of
following the boundary
line eastward to the Lake
of the Woods. He sold his
horses and took canoes
down the river to the
Hudson's Bay Company at
Fort Garry, where he was
much interested in the
northern civilization as
well as in the settlers
who had Fort Douglas as
their centre.
It was August 17th when
Long's expedition left
Fort Douglas and went down
the Red River. It took but
two days to reach the
mouth of the river and
cross Lake Winnipeg to
Fort Alexander at the
mouth of the Winnipeg
River. Six days more
brought the swift
canoe-men up the river to
Lake of the Woods. At the
falls of Rainy River was
the Hudson's Bay Company
establishment, then under
the charge of fur trader
McGillivray. On the
opposite side of the river
was the fort of the
American Fur Company.
Following the old route,
they reached Grand
Portage, September 12th,
and thence the expedition
returned to the East.
Major Long's expedition
was a well-conducted and
successful enterprise. Its
members were of the
highest respectability,
and the two volumes
written by Secretary
Keating have the charm of
real adventure about them.
BELTRAMI'S DASH
When Major Long was
leaving Fort Snelling, on
the Mississippi, to go
upon the expedition we
have just described, an
erratic but energetic and
clever Italian, named J.
C. Beltrami, asked to be
allowed to accompany him.
This aspiring but wayward
man has left us a book,
consisting of letters
addressed to Madame la
Comtesse Compagoni, a lady
of rank in Florence, which
is very interesting. On
starting he wrote, "My
first intention, that of
going in search of the
real source of the
Mississippi, was always
before my eyes."
Beltrami, while clever,
seems to have been a man
of insufferable conceit.
On the journey to Big
Stone Lake and thence
along the river, in the
buffalo hunts, in
conferences with the
Sioux, the Italian
adventurer awakened the
resentment of the
commander of the
expedition, who refused to
allow him to accompany his
party further. This proved
rather favourable to the
purpose of Beltrami, who,
with a half-breed guide
and Chippewa Indians,
started to go eastward,
having a mule and a dog
train as means of
transport. After a few
days' journey the guide
left him, returning with
the mule and dog train to
Pembina. Next his Indian
guide deserted him,
fearing the Sioux, and
Beltrami was left to make
his way in a canoe up the
river to Red Lake.
Inexperienced in the
management of a birch bark
canoe, Beltrami was upset,
but he at length proceeded
along the bank and
shallows of the river,
dragging the canoe with a
tow line after him, and
arrived in miserable
plight at Red Lake.
Here he engaged a guide
and interpreter, and
writes that he went "where
no white man had
previously travelled." He
was now on the highway to
renown. He was taken from
point to point on the many
lakes of Northern
Minnesota, and affixed
names to them. On August
20th, 1823, he went over
several portages, led by
his guide to Turtle Lake,
which was to him a source
of wonder, as he saw it
from the flow of waters
south to the Gulf of
Mexico, north to the
Frozen Sea, east to the
Atlantic, and west toward
the Pacific Ocean. His own
words are: "A vast
platform crosses this
distinguished supreme
elevation, and, what is
more astonishing, in the
midst of it rises a lake.
How is this lake formed ?
Whence do its waters
proceed? This lake has no
issue! And my eyes, which
are not deficient in
sharpness, cannot discover
in the whole extent of the
clearest and widest
horizon any land which
rises above it. All places
around it are, on the
contrary, considerably
lower."
Beltrami then went to
examine the surrounding
country, and found the
lake, to which he gave the
name of Lake Julia, to be
bottomless. This lake he
pronounces to be the
source of the Mississippi
River. This opinion was
published abroad and
accepted by some, but
later explorations proved
him to be wrong. A small
lake to the south-west,
afterwards found to be the
true source, was described
to him by his guide as Lac
La Biche, and he placed
this on his chart as "Doe
Lake," the west source of
the Mississippi. It is a
curious fact that Lake
Julia was the same lake
surveyed twenty-five years
before by astronomer
Thompson.
After further
explorations, Beltrami
returned to Fort Snelling,
near St. Paul, Minn.,
being clothed in Indian
garments, with a piece of
bark for a hat.
The intrepid explorer
found his way to New
Orleans, where he
published "La Découverté
des Sources du
Mississippi." Though the
work was criticized with
some severity, yet
Beltrami, on his arrival
at London in 1827,
published "A Pilgrimage in
Europe and America " in
two volumes, which are the
source of our information.
The county in Minnesota,
which includes both Julia
and Doe Lakes, is
appropriately called
Beltrami County.
CASS AND SCHOOLCRAFT.
Lewis Cass, of New
Hampshire was appointed
Governor of Michigan in
1813. Six years after this
he addressed the Secretary
of War in Washington,
proposing an expedition to
and through Lake Superior,
and to the sources of the
Mississippi. It was
planned for an examination
of the principal features
of the North-West
tributary to Lake Superior
and the Mississippi River.
This was sanctioned in
1820, and the expedition
embarked in May of that
year at Detroit, Michigan,
Henry Schoolcraft being
mineralogist, and Captain
D. B. Douglas topographer
and astronomer.
The expedition, after much
contrary weather, reached
Sault Ste. Marie, and the
Governor, after much
difficulty, here
negotiated a treaty with
the Indians. Going by way
of the Fond du Lac, the
party entered the St.
Louis River, and made a
tiresome portage to Sandy
Lake station. This
fur-trading post the party
left in July, and ascended
the Upper Mississippi to
the Upper Cedar Lake, the
name of which was changed
to Lake Cassina, and
afterwards Cass Lake. From
the Indians Governor Cass
learned that Lac La Biche—some
fifty miles further on—was
the true source of the
river, but he was deterred
by their accounts of the
lowness of the water and
the fierceness of the
current from attempting
the journey any further-
The expedition
ingloriously retired from
the project, going down to
St. Anthony Falls,
ascending the Wisconsin
River, and thence down Fox
River. The Governor
himself in September
arrived in Detroit, having
crossed the Southern
Peninsula of Michigan on
horseback.
Hon. J. W. Brown says:
"When Governor Cass
abandoned his purpose to
ascend the Mississippi to
its source, he was within
an easy distance,
comparatively speaking, of
the goal sought for. Less
timidity had often been
displayed in canoe
voyages, even in the face
of low water, and an
O-z-a-win-dib or a
Keg-wed-zis-sag, Indian
guides, would have easily
won the battle of the day
for Governor Cass."
SCHOOLCRAFT AT LENGTH
SUCCEEDS.
Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, of
good family, was born in
New York State, and was
educated in that State and
in Vermont. His first
expedition was in company
with De Witt Clinton in a
journey to Missouri and
Arkansas. On his return he
published two treatises
which gave him some
reputation as an explorer
and scientist. We have
already spoken of the part
taken by him in the
expedition of Governor
Cass. He received after
this the appointment of
"Superintendent of Indian
Affairs" at Sault Ste.
Marie, and to this we are
indebted for the treasury
of Indian lore published
in four large quarto
volumes, from which
Longfellow obtained his
tale of "Hiawatha," In
1830 Schoolcraft received
orders from Washington,
ostensibly for conference
with the Indians, but in
reality to determine the
source of the Mississippi.
The Rev. W. T. Boutwell,
representing a Board of
Missions, accompanied the
expedition.
Lac La Biche was already
known to exist, and to
this Schoolcraft pointed
his expedition. On their
journey outward
Schoolcraft suddenly one
day asked Boutwell the
Greek and Latin names for
the headwaters or true
source of a river. Mr.
Boutwell could not recall
the Greek, but gave the
two Latin words—veritas
(truth) and caput (head).
These were written on a
slip of paper, and Mr.
Schoolcraft struck out the
first and last three
letters, and announced to
Boutwell that "Itasca
shall be the name." It is
true that Schoolcraft
wrote a stanza in which he
says, "By fair Itasca
shed," seemingly referring
to an Indian maiden.
Boutwell, however, always
maintained his story of
the name, and this is
supported by the fact that
the word was never heard
in the 0jibeway mythology.
The party followed the
same route as that taken
by Governor Cass on his
journey, reaching Cass
Lake on July 10th, 1832.
Taking the advice of
Ozawinder, a Chippewa
Indian, they followed up
their journey in birch
bark canoes, went up the
smaller fork of the
Mississippi, and then by
portage reached the
eastern extremity of La
Biche or Itasca Lake.
The party landed on the
island in the lake which
has since been known as
Schoolcraft Island, and
here raised their flag.
After exploring the shores
of the lake, he returned
to Cass Lake, and, full of
pride of his discovery,
journeyed home to Sault
Ste. Marie. On the map
drawn to illustrate
Schoolcraft's inland
journey occurs, beside the
lake of his discovery, the
legend, "Itasca Lake, the
source of the Mississippi
River; length from Gulf of
Mexico, 3,160 miles;
elevation, 1,500 ft.
Reached July 13th, 1832."