THE name
Rothiemurchus, though uncouth in appearance, is really a
word picture. It means "the plain of the Great Pines."
This description has held true from time immemorial. We
have incidental proof of this so far back as the fifteenth
century. In a deed of date 1464, the Kirklands of
Rothiemurchus were declared to be held of the Bishop of
Moray, by Alex. Keyre Mackintosh "reserving the King’s
forensic service, due and wont, and paying a fir-cone
(unum germen abiegnum) to the Bishop at the manor
place of Rothiemnurchus if asked." One of the witnesses to
the Instrument is William de Gawbrath, Rector of
Kincardyne. Rothiemurchus is also notable for the
vicissitudes of the landholders, Cummings, Shaws,
Mackintoshes, Dallases, and Grants, having successively
held the property. According to tradition, the Grants got
Muckrach in the sixteenth century from the Bishop of
Moray, in compensation for the wrongs done to Grant of
Achernack, and from there they moved to Rothiemurchus.
This tradition is so far confirmed by the stone which
stood for long above the door of "the Dell," hut which in
1879 was removed, and placed over the eastern entrance of
the Doune House. It bears the initials P. G., for Patrick
Grant, and I. G., for Jean Gordon, and two shields of arms
surmounted by the motto "In GOD IS AL MY TREST," with the
date 1597. Patrick Grant of Muckrach, afterwards of
Rothiemurchus, was the second son of John Grant of
Freuchie, and Lady Margaret Stewart, daughter of the Earl
of Atholl. He is designed of Rothiemurchus in a summons of
date 1570. In 1575 he received a charter from his father
of the lands of Rothiemurchus, and in 1579 he received a
Crown Charter of Resignation of the same lands, in which
he is designed of Rothiemurchus. By his wife, Jean Gordon,
he had two sons, Duncan and John. The latter succeeded to
the property. He married Margaret Dunbar, daughter of the
Dean of Moray. His son James succeeded him about 1651, and
married Grizzel Mackintosh of Kyllachie, commonly called
Grizzel Mhor." They had three sons. Patrick, the eldest,
succeeded his father, and William. the second son, became
Laird of Ballindalloch. It seems to have been the custom
with the Grants of Rothiemurchus, as with other families,
to give distinguishing titles or by—names to the heads of
the House. One was called "The Spreckled Laird," probably
from being pock—pitted. Another was termed The White
Laird," probably from his fair complexion, and another,
the one with whose history we have to do, bore the name of
"Macalpine." Some say this title was given him by the
famous Rob Roy, but the Grants, as well as the Macgregors,
claimed to be of the royal line of Alpin. At any rate,
there was something significant and honourable in this
laird being thus specially distinguished. It seemed to
indicate that in him the characteristics of the ancient
race had found a true representative. There had been
friendly intercourse between the Macgregors and the Grants
of Rothemnrchus for generations. In 1592 Patrick Grant
joined with John Grant of Freuchie in a mutual bond of
man-rent with John Dow Macgregor. He died in 1617. In 1623
his son John was fined 2000 merks for resetting,
supplying, and inter—communing" with the Clan Gregor. In
Macalpine’s time Rob Roy visited the Doune, and a letter
written by him to Ballindalloch in 1726, quoted elsewhere,
shews the kindly relationship between the families.
Macalpine was born
in 1660, succeeded in 1677, and died in 1743. He was twice
married. His first wife was Mary Grant (1731), daughter of
Patrick, Tutor of Grant of Grant. His second wife was
Rachel Grant of Tullochgorm. He was a man of much ability,
shrewd in the management of affairs, remarkable for wit
and repartee, and holding a high place as a Highland
Laird, whose House was a centre of light and hospitality.
Pliny might be said to have described him, "Erat homo
ingeniousus acutus, acer, et qui plurimum et salis haberet
et follis, nec canderis minus." When Simon Lord Lovat
married Margaret, fourth daughter of Ludovic, Laird of
Grant (1717), there were great doings in Strathspey.
Macalpine and other gentlemen of the Clan accompanied the
Frasers on their home journey. A Gaelic song describes the
march. It has the quaint refrain—
"We will go home,
come away home,
We will go home to the Aird,
Leave we the Grants of the porridge,
We are the Frasers of the kail."
At Castle Downie
Lovat made a great feast, with music and dancing.
Tradition says that when the Strathspey men took the floor
they made quite a sensation. The Frasers crowded round,
they peeped over each others’ heads, they even climbed to
the rafters to gaze. Never before had they seen such grace
and agility. The following verse of a Gaelic song refers
to the dancers:-
"Bha aon dhiubh dha
‘m bu stoidhle an Tulhich,
Fear eile, ‘s Mullochard,
‘S cait am facas riabh air ůrlar,
Bheireadh air an triuir ud bŕrr."
There was one they
styled ‘the Tullv,’
Mullochard, and another,
To trip it with these matchless three,
Where could you find a brother ?"
The reel was an unfortunate one for
"Tully." The bush of a wheel had been set in the floor,
opposite the fireplace, for the roasting of an ox, and in
one of his capers, his foot caught in the hole, and down
he came, breaking his leg in the fall. The morning after
the wedding one of the attendants came round to make a
collection, after the old custom, for the bride. When
Macalpine was applied to, he answered with biting
sarcasm—
GIad my daughter married the
cattleman, I would have kept her at least seven years from
begging.’’ This saving got wind, and led to the
discontinuance of the practice. The ‘‘ Baidse," as it was
called, was collected no more. In due time, a son was born
to Lady Lovat, and another great feast was held at the
baptism (18th May, 1719). Lovat played one of his pranks
on the occasion. The chief guests were seated at a round
table, and in the course of the repast, a huge pie was
produced. Macalpine was asked to cut it up. When he had
opened it, out flew a pigeon, and the laaird
naturally put his hand up to guard himself. Lovat cried
out, Macalpine has scrogged his bonnet." Macalpine
answered fiercely, " If
so, a traitor shall ‘scrog’
opposite him," and he stood up and drew his sword. But
nothing came of it. Lovat was too prudent a man to
quarrel, and apologised. Macalpine and Lovat had another
encounter at Castle Grant. They were playing cards
together. Macalpine affected to be puzzled. Lovat called
out, "Play, play." Macalpine, after a pause, said
significantly, " Lovat, my cards would suit you better, a
knave between two kings." Another time at Castle
Grant, the Laird made a curious comment on the dancers. He
said, "It was the drollest reel he had ever seen. First
there was the man of the law, and then the man of the
Lord, and next the two greatest drunkards in the
counntry ‘‘ Macalpine did not like lawyers. It is said
that part of his dinner grace was-—-"From lawyers
and doctors, good Lord deliver us." He was very zealous in
keeping up the old customs and ways. The Laird and the
parson in those day lived on good terms. Rothiemurchus
being joined to Duthil, it was the duty of the minister of
Duthil to hold service there every third Sunday. On one
occasion the parson had stayed over night, and the next
day he and the Laird went out for a stroll. They were
walking arm in arm, when the parson stumbled. The Laird
exclaimed, in Gaelic, "God and Mary be with you." The
parson was shocked, and said, "God with me
and Mary with
you;
what better was she than my
own mother ?"
Macalpine quietly replied,
" We shall say nothing as
to the mothers, but
great is the difference
belween the Sons." Macalpine was a great hunter, and
there are frequent references to his skill and exploits in
the Gaelic songs of the period. He was very successful in
the management of his extensive forests. Mr Lorimer, tutor
to the Laird of Grant, says in his notes, " Rothie is his
own overseer and forester. Much in that."
This was written
shortly after Macalpine’s death, but it marks the wise and
effective system which he had established.
In
" The Memoirs of a Highland
Lady," Mrs Smith has the following reference to her
great-grandfather :—"Macalpine ruled not only his own
small patrimony, but mostly all the country round. His
wisdom was great, his energy of body and mind untiring. He
must have acted as a kind of despotic sovereign, for he
went about with a body of four-and-twenty picked men,
gaily dressed, of whom the principal and the favourite was
his foster brother, Ian Bain, or John the Pair, also a
Grant of the family of Achnahatnich. Any offence committed
anywhere, this band took cognisance of. Macalpine himself
was judge and jury, and the sentence quickly pronounced
was as quickly executed, even when the verdict doomed to
death. A corpse with a dagger in it was not unfrequently
met with among the heather, and sometimes a stout fir
branch bore the remains of a meaner victim. I never heard
the justice of a sentence questioned. Macalpine was a
great man in every sense of the word, tall and strong
made, and very handsome, and a beau; his trews (he never
wore the kilt) were laced down the sides with gold; the
brogues on his beautifully-formed feet were lined and
trimmed with feathers;
his hands, as soft and white
as a lady’s, and models as to shape, could draw blood from
the finger nails of any other hand they grasped, and they
were so flexible they could be bent back to form a cup
which would hold a tablespoonful of water. He was an
epicure, as indeed are all Highlanders in their own way.
They are contented with simple fare, and they ask no great
variety, but what they have must be of its kind the best,
and cooked precisely to their fancy. The well of which
Macalpine invariably drank was the Lady’s Well at
Tullochgrue, the water
of which was certainly delicious. It
was brought to him twice a day in a covered wooden vessel,
a cogue or lippie."
The Gaels have some
curious sayings as to choosing a wife. Cormac’s advice to
his son was as follows—"Na tagh Binneagag, no Grincagag,
no Gaogag, no
ruadh bheag, no ruadh mhňr, no ruadh mhŕsach; ach Ciarag
bheag air dhath na luch, na sir, ‘s na seachain i." The
meaning of some of the terms is obscure, but the
preference as to complexion is given to olive over red.
Macalpine had a way of his own. The story as to how he
chose his second wife is as suggestive as amusing. Knowing
that Grant of Tullochgorm had some strapping daughters, he
made a call on the old gentleman and told him what he had
in view. The girls were brought in for inspection in the
order of their ages. When the eldest appeared, Macalpine
said, "Now, supposing you had a tocher of gold as big as
Craigowrie (a hill on the opposite side of the Spey), what
would you do with it?" She answered that she would get
lots of dresses and jewels, and have a fine house in
Edinburgh. This did not please the Laird. The second was
brought in, and the third, with like unsatisfactory
results. The Laird then said, "Have you not another
daughter? "
‘Yes," was the reply "hut she is out with the cows."
"fetch her," said Macalpine. She was brought in, and the
same question put to her as to the others. She did not
answer quickly, but paused a moment, with downcast eyes,
as if in deep thought. Then looking up, she said sweetly,
"That is too bard a question for me. I would take the
advice of my husband as to what to do." Macalpine was
jubilant. "That’s the lass for me," he said.
"So sweet a face,
such angel grace,
In all that land had never been,
Cophetua swore a royal oath,
This beggar maid shall be my queen."
But though Macalpine
got a young and pretty wife, it is said the marriage was
not to the liking of his family. Lady Jean, the next
Laird’s wife, was systematically unkind to the widow, and
slighted her four young ones. This, with other unkind
usage, bore hardly on Lady Rachel. Mrs Smith tells that
"once after the service of the kirk was over she stepped
up, with her fan in her hand, to the corner of the
kirkyard where all our graves are made, and taking off her
high-heeled slipper, she tapped with it on the stone laid
over her husband’s grave, crying out, ‘Macalpine!
Macalpine! rise up for ae half-hour and see me richted!"
Macalpine died at the great age of 92, in 1743, and was
thus saved the perils of Prince Charlie’s year and the
dark days of Culloden. |
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