The Tolbooth in 1843.
“Before 1600 houses wore
along the shore and continuous on both sides of ‘King High Street’ (I find
the expression in 1607 ‘Ye prineipall King hie Streit’); not so continuous
in Back Street, and detached houses at South Hill.” In the records in 1592
is the phrase “To mak patent ye Tolbuith of oure Burgh,” and in 1604 a
proclamation was made “at ye Tolbuith dore.” Whether this was a building
merely adapted to the purpose does not appear, but in 1605 it is proposed to
“big ane new Tolbuith,” and in May 1606 contracts are entered into for
“bigging ye Tolbuith,” Council house, ward houses, ‘'iron for wimlocks (six
to be gla'ed), stane, water, lime, and wark-men.” The stone work was to cost
1600 nierks, but it cost more. In 1609 ”Ye buiths and ye clappe under ye
Tolbuith” were let for the first time to various individuals. In 1612 James
Thompson, wright, contracted to line the interior of the Council chamber
with “aik, and range pillaris,” and to build a stair to “ye loft is.” This
interesting structure was removed in 1843 on the building of the Albert
steamboat pier and the road to Kinghorn. Farnie stigmatises it. as “that
nbominable old court house with its outside stair.” It would see many a
stirring scene in the 230 odd years of its existence, especially in the
three years before and nine years after Cromwell’s arrival, during- which
period it was fitted up for soldiers. When the Council patriotically vacated
it in 1648 they little thought it would be 12 years a barracks. My
illustration of it has been constructed from a small woodcut, a water-colour
of my own of the old “Green Tree,” and the descriptions of the people who
have seen it. It has been shown to several of these who are still alive, who
recognise it as being correct. The doors of the cells were of strong iron
grating throughout, so that the prisoners could always be kept in view. It
was no uncommon thing to see a string let down from the window of a cell to
which friends would attach some luxury denied by the authorities. The
kind-hearted Town’s Officer winked at this and other. liberties, but he went
too far when he took “half a crown” from “a gentleman” incarcerated for debt
who wanted a bottle of whisky. While absent on this errand of mercy, the
prisoner got out of his cell and escaped, and the Town’s Officer lost his
berth. “There’s many a slip ’tween the cup and the lip." There was a large
hall used for trials, public meetings, entertainments, and dinners.. Off
this hall at the west end was the Council chamber. The booths on the ground
floor were at first used by their tacksmen for storing and exhibiting goods
on market days.
Due to the blank in the
records, the first mention I found of a dock is in 1658, when Henrie
Crawford was appointed in room of James Anderson “for attending to ye toun
clock." In 1680 a clockmaker was appointed at £8 yearly. In 1727 “The toun
cloak is altogether irregular and out of order, and the “Tolbuith steiple"
so shaken and ruinous that the bell cannot be rung “ without the hazard of
dinging the sclats and endangering peoples lives.” So after repairing the
steeple they tried a clockmaker from Dunfermline as a change. (It was not
till 1789 that the town could boast a resident “watchmaker.”) In October,
when the “Hon. Charles Leslie, Lord Provost,” took the oath of allegiance to
His Majesty George II., a motion was made, either by chance or good guiding,
“that for the credit and honour of the toun it was necessary to have the
toun’s horologe on the Tolbuith repaired, and the deal (dial) plates gilded
and made bright." The “Lord Provost” took the hint and “undertook to doe the
same upon his own chairges.” This word horologe seemed all the go at this
time. The mocking challenge “Yoak yer orlitch”—look at your watch, implying
the unlikelihood of' your having one, was peculiar to Fife.
I have not discovered when
the bell was first obtained, but fortunately chanced on entries in the
records of 1677, when having got cracked it was sent abroad to be mended.
The expense was met by public subscription. This date corresponds with one
on the bell. This beautiful and interesting bell, now resting in the lobby
of the Town Hall, is said to have been purchased from Berwick, where it hung
in the tower of the Castle. The following inscription makes a circuit of the
shoulder, but it is not clear whether I-EX-LAX- is the beginning or end. It
may be “First, in the year” 1595. I am told there is an estate near Berwick
called Claster“ I - EX - LAX - 1595 - SOYPLIF - SYIS - XOXSIFE - PARLES -
HABITAXS -HE - CLASTRE - 1677 - BEX' - YCK - AYER -HER - GORTEX - DOR - G -
H - S . .
The authorities at the
Scottish Museum could make nothing of this. On the side of the bell is a
fine relief of an antique ship.
It had been thought till 1912
that the accepted position of the Market Cross, marked by paving stones in
the shape of a cross, a little to the west of the Town Hall, might only
approximately mark its position, especially as it is not central but
considerably to the north side. However, in relaying it then Mr Waddell,
Burgh Surveyor, took the opportunity of examining the foundations, and found
that these had been substantial, of cut freestone, circular, and 16 feet in
diameter. There can be no doubt that this is the original position of the
“Croce lions,” “House of Cunzie,” or “Tronhouse,” so frequently mentioned
1604-1612 and 1646-1663. I am inclined to think there would never be a
sculptured cross. Speed says some erection in the shape of a pillory stood
near the centre of the High Street. It would probably be attached to this
Cross House. Some of these circular cross or market houses still survive in
England. In 1609, apparently this house is spoken of, when James Baltrame is
“put in ye Tronhonse for 24 hrs.”; and when in 1646, on the death of George
Mareton, Town Clerk, the Council directs that the town’s seals, books, and
writs be recovered from the house of Cunzie. In 1604 it is termed “Ye Mercat
Croce,” in 1606 “Ye Voce lious,” in 1663 “Ye A\est Croce house.” (Part of
the Customs may have been collected at some supplementary house at the East
Port.) This Cross house was demolished in 1663, and in 1666 “Calsay” was
ordered to be laid “where ye old croce house stood.” Where the new house was
built is not clear, but it was nearer the Tolbuith. It was again removed in
1689 and a new one built “opposite the end of Bailie Ged’s dyke.” For
several reasons I think this would he still further west, one of which is
that in 1711 the Cunzie is spoken of as if quite close to the Tolbuith. |