Inverness-shire is not
only the largest county in Great Britain, but the best wooded, and
whether taken from an archaic or a modem point of view, it affords us
the most interesting illustrations of what the ancient forests of
Scotland were, and what modem plantations have become. In its glens and
straths there are many evidences to be found of the great forests of oak
and fir which constituted the primeval grandeur of our country ; in
other places, on its heaths and moors, we can vividly imagine what a
naked and desolate land Scotland must have been in the seventeenth
century when, as the result of centuries of waste and wanton
destruction, the forests had disappeared, and the nation cried out for
more timber; and now, the flourishing plantations which grace our
straths, glens, and hillsides suggest to one the silvan glories of a
thousand years ago. These remarks indicate the lines upon which I
propose dealing with my subject—and it is one which, by the way, has not
yet found a place in the Transactions of the Society. This latter
circumstance reminds me that a little latitude might be taken with the
earlier and more general aspects of tree history, especially as I have
found the literature of the subject scarce and fragmentary. It will be
interesting to glance at the condition of Scotland prior to and during
the dark ages; the middle ages, when the nation was consolidating
itself, and laying the foundation of its agricultural and commercial
importance, are instructive, chiefly through the enactments of
Parliaments which had became distracted over the treeless condition of
the country; while the disappearance and re-appearance of the woods
within the last two centuries form a curious chapter in Scottish
history. In Inverness-shire itself, with its 163,000 acres of woods, it
will only be necessary to deal with the leading estates, so far as they
illustrate the matter. In Strathspey, we have on the Scafield property
the greatest planting experiment on record, viz., 50,000 acres; the
Lovat country it is important to deal with as a noted instance of
perpetuating woods by natural reproduction ; and on the Lochiel estate
we will find, perhaps, more relics of byegone ages, and better examples
of the fir in its native fastnesses, than can be found elsewhere in
Scotland.
Historians invariably
remind us, in a poetic form of language, that at the dawn of our
history, when the Roman legions made their advent, Scotland was one dark
and dreary forest, as. impenetrable as that of Central Africa, and
inhabited by a race only a little bigger and scarcely less savage. I am
not disposed to adopt that extreme view of our ancestors, nor do I think
the country was so densely tree-grown as some imaginative writers
represent. The red haired, large limbed, naked, and bare-footed
Caledonians of Tacitus fought in chariots, with themselves, and when
they opposed the Roman hosts. Chariots suggest large open spaces; the
rearing of black cattle required pasture. But, generally speaking,
Scotland was then a tree-grown country, with its greatest forest
extending into Badenoch and Strathspey, and ramifying into every
Highland strath until it spread over Sutherlandshire, and vanished in
the sterility of Caithness. Let us pass this early chapter of forest
history in hurried review. As the eye dwells on the natural pine forests
of Strathspey, their vast expanse swelling boldly up the mountain sides,
the contrast of the dazzling snow patches on the Cairngorms deepening
the hue of their sombre green, the imagination takes a roving excursion
far into the retreating centuries, and one is speedily entranced with
the kaleidoscope of a silvan romance. First comes Scotland in its
primeval grandeur of mountain, forest, and flood, the war cry of the
sturdy aborigines finding an echo in the woods wherever the tribal
battle was waged; or the shout of the barbarian sportsmen as they
merrily, with bow, sling, and lance, pursue the crusade against the
wolves, and the bears, and the reindeer in the fastnesses. Here is
Scottish freedom in embryo ; and what a curious picture the imagination
makes of that mysterious period. The peaceful scene changes, and there
is commotion in the forest, and a rendezvous by the river of Spey.
Tribal differences are forgotten, and the wild denizens of the wood are
allowed to range unmolested. The long heard of invader has at last
planted his foot on Caledonian soil, and the ancient race of the
Highlands gather, in their rude panoply of war, to make common cause
against the foe. Blood flows freely in the Grampian forests, and many
brave deeds are done, but steadily the Roman legions cut their way
through the pathless tracks of Strathspey, and bye-and-by they stand
victorious on the gently-lapped shores of the Moray Firth. Victorious !
but at what a cost. Sullenly, the native warriors seek the silent forest
glades, happy only in the thought that 50,000 men of the invading hosts
have fallen as the trees they felled, and that their carcases make sleek
the wolves of Strathspey and the Don. Time has passed, and there is
again a gathering of Caledonians in Strathspey. The instruments of war
have been laid aside. Huge carcases of the native bull, the elk, and the
reindeer are brought in, and fires are ablaze; the plunder of war is
exhibited, and preparations are made for a feast such as has not yet
been witnessed by Spey’s marshy banks. For the strongholds of the Roman
invader are deserted, the forests no longer resound to their martial
tread, and the mighty firs of Duthil cease to bend to their axes.
Barbarian tactics and courage have succeeded, in the long run, against
the gleaming battalions of Rome, and North Scotland is once more a free
country. Another period passes, and the warriors of the Highland forests
march westward to fight an invader who defies them and refuses to be
shaken off. The clash of battle is heard through the whole century long;
forest fires blacken and desolate the country; gradually the turmoil
ceases, and there is a mingling and an absorption of races. The scene
ends peacefully at Scone, in the heart of a forest, where the clans
gather to do homage to the Scottish king. Caledonia retains its pine
woods in diminished plenty ; and the foundation of its rude agriculture
is to be laid ; but the times are still rude, and the early kings have
rough work before them. The struggles in which they engage with the
Vikings and the Danes slowly weld the kingdom into unity and
consistency, and Scottish nationality emerges a concrete thing. And so
we glide into the middle ages; and nothing seems so permanent as the
Strathspey pine forests in the midst of so much revolution and change.
But they, too, give way, as in other parts of the country. At last the
law comes to the rescue of the outraged forests, now threatened with
extinction, except in the remote Highlands, by the cry for more land and
less timber. It was a hard struggle, this one about timber, against evil
design and accident, carelessness and cupidity ; and as the eye rests
to-day on the forests of Duthil, and Abernethy and Rothiemurchus, one
feels thankful that remnants of the primeval pines survived the
destructive centuries to associate the present with the past silvan
glories of the land.
During the two hundred
years which intervened between the death of William the Lion and the
ascent of King James the First to the throne of Scotland, the woods and
forests of the country suffered great destruction. From the time John
Baliol servilely sold the independence of his country, revolted, and,
attired in his shirt and drawers, again abjectly submitted to the
haughty King Edward in the kirkyard of Strickathrow—fit place for such a
circumstance—the country was being almost perpetually wasted by the
ravages of war. Wallace, Robert the Bruce, his son David II., the false
Albany, and King Blearie (Robert II.) rose in succession and acted their
eventful and chequered parts ; the tide of war flowed and ebbed over the
land; and, latterly, outrage and violence prevailed, and security for
life and property was unknown. When King James reached Scotland in 1424,
happy in the restoration of his freedom, and in the possession of his
“milk-white dove,” now become his Queen, he found his kingdom in a
wretched condition. The feudal nobles, accustomed to a weak and feeble
Government, kept the whole country in confusion with their feuds and
revenges, their fierce wars on one another, and their cruel oppressions
of the people. The law was a dead letter, and theft and robbery were
acts almost licensed by custom. James in his second Parliament found it
necessary to pass, among other beneficent laws, an Act for the
preservation of forest trees and greenwood, a proof that the immense
forests which had once covered the face of the country, and were so
strictly guarded by William the Lion, were fast disappearing, and that a
scarcity of timber had begun to be apprehended. The houses of the people
were in those days for the most part constructed of wood, and if there
was growing timber in the vicinity paterfamilias did not scruple to
provide himself with the best of materials in the shape of matured oak,
without reckoning with the owner. The first enactment was directed
against the stealers of greenwood and fruit, the breakers of orchards,
the peelers of trees, and the destroyers of wood. Such depredations were
generally committed under cover of darkness, and under the statute here
referred to a modern lawyer would have no difficulty in getting off his
client if the offence happened to have taken place during the day time,
dear and to the point, so far as they went, those ancient laws were,
however, suited to the rough administration of the times. Technical
objections as to relevancy and irrelevancies were then unknown; but as
the nation grew in civilisation- and intelligence it is interesting to
observe the increasing complexity with which the legal net was woven.
The penalty attached to any of the crimes mentioned in the Act described
was forty shillings to the King should a conviction be obtained before
the justice, and the stealers of wood had, in addition, to indemnify the
party “skaithed.”
The year after the
discovery of America, James the Fourth, considering “the great and
unnumerable riches that is tinte in fault of schippes,” set himself to
create a Scottish fleet. All burghs and towns within the realm suitably
situated were ordered to build, according to their substance, ships of
not less than twenty tons, properly equipped for fishing and commerce,
for the desire of the king in the first place, though he had “policie
and conquest” as his ulterior aim, was to create a nursery of skilled
and hardy seamen. Shipwrights and cannon founders were brought from
abroad, and the king, in his enthusiasm, personally superintended the
building of ships of war. In course of time he made the navy of Scotland
a powerful one for that period, and the Scottish flag inspired respect
in all seas. The construction of so many ships was an enormous drain
upon the woods and forests of the country; and some ten years afterwards
we find another law on the statute book “anent the artickle of greene
wood, because that the wood of Scotland is utterly destroyed.” Strangely
enough, however, the scarcity of timber is not even partly referred to
the building of a navy, but to the circumstance that the fine for the
malicious felling or burning of it was so little Henceforth the penalty
was to be five pounds, and the old Act was renewed with this exception.
That this was not exactly the policy required in the circumstances is
proved by subsequent enactments. For the protection of trees a heavy
fine was all good enough if vigorously enforced, but as regards the
restoration of the woods and forests that had been destroyed it was of
no practical moment. In the course of some thirty years the general
barren condition of the country called into existence a law for the
planting of woods, forests, and orchards. This was in the fourth
Parliament of King James the Fifth (1535). It was ordained that every
man, spiritual or temporal, having lands of the value of a hundred
pounds, and in whose lands there was no timber, was to plant trees to
the extent of three acres, or under, “as his heritage is mair or less;”
and tenants of such lands were to plant yearly “for every marke land ane
tree.” The penalty for non-compliance was ten pounds. At the same time
the crime of destroying green wood by cutting, peeling, burning, or
felling was to be more seriously punished. For the first offence a fine
of ten pounds was to be exacted, for the second offence twenty pounds,
and if a person broke the law a third time he was to suffer death ! The
adoption of these extreme measures indicates the straits to which the
nation was reduced for timber. Even the King’s own forests had suffered,
and it became necessary to pass an Act for their better preservation and
protection for the pasturing of wild beasts and hunting. Horse, sheep,
and cattle found trespassing in the Royal forests in future were to be
escheated to the King. Timber now came to be imported, and in 1540 a law
was passed empounding the Provosts, Bailies, and Councils of Burghs to
fix the prices of wine, salt, and timber at all ports at which cargoes
were landed, including Inverness. The cause of this enactment was “the
exorbitant dearth and prices of wine, salt, and timmer.” A reasonable
price having been fixed, the King was to be first served, then the
nobles of the realm, such as prelates and barons, and afterwards the
lieges of lower degree. In order that the civic functionaries might be
able to act as arbiters in the matter of prices, they were required to
make inquiry as to how timber, wine, and salt were selling in other
countries. The Parliament of Queen Mary amended this law in so far as
the price fixed had to be published for four days before any sales could
be effected.
The forest laws of King
James the Sixth consisted of three Acts, all having particular reference
to the destruction and decay of the royal forests. As to the necessity
for, and the tenor of those statutes, they form a significant comment on
the character of the period. It would seem that the people continued to
study their own convenience and perpetuate their habits in preference to
the royal commands, for in no other department of law-making in the
olden times was there so much enacting, and re-enacting, and confessions
of failure than in forest legislation. The three Acts to which we allude
are an illustration iu point. In 1592 James the Sixth passed a law for
the better keeping of the royal parks and forests. The preamble states
that great skaith had been done to such property in consequence of the
liberty “every man” usurped by putting all kinds of “guddes” in them.
The parks and forests had been utterly destroyed, and rendered
unprofitable for his Majesty’s use. It was therefore ordained that
whatever animals were pastured in the forests without a licence were to
be forfeited to the King, and proclamation of the law was ordered to be
made in the parochial kirks and at the market crosses in the burghs next
adjacent to the parks and forests. Instead of being diminished, the evil
increased, and so in the short space of two years after, Parliament is
again found legislating on the subject more comprehensively and
severely. It was observed, says the new statute, that the woods,
forests, deer, and fowl were daily decreasing, by reason of the Acts and
statutes set down against the destroyers of woods and forests, and
slayers of wild beasts, not being put into execution. Persons took the
liberty to destroy and slay “at their awin appetites.” The burden of the
new Act was that, “for the better entertainment of his royal pastime in
the time coming,” persons who cut timber or green wood within his
Majesty’s woods or parks, or should slay deer, pheasants, fowls,
partridges, or other wild fowl with gun, cross-bow, handbow, dogs or gim,
without special licence and tolerance, or who killed deer which had
strayed in times of storms to barnyards, were to have their whole goods
escheated, and a criminal prosecution instituted. All animals found
pasturing within the confines of the forests were to be confiscated.
Hunting or shooting within even a radius of six miles of the royal
woods, parks, castles, and palaces were to be punished with a fine of a
hundred pounds, or imprisonment if the person was not good for that
amount. These sweeping measures did not, however, restrain the
law-breakers, and twenty-three years afterwards, for the third time in
the reign of James the Sixth, Parliament again had forest legislation
under review. The tone of this Act was even more bewailing than the
others. It is regretted that the forests within the realm in which deer
are kept are altogether wasted and decayed by shiellings, pasturing of
horses, mares, cattle, oxen and other bestial, cutting of woods within
the said forests, shooting and slaying of deer, venison, and wild fowl,
and that divers “ loveable ” Acts, laws, and statutes for the punishment
of transgressors had not been put duly into execution in time gone bye.
The reason mentioned for the inefficacy of the laws is that the keepers
of the forests and others having right thereto had no power or
jurisdiction to punish, and accordingly in all time coming foresters
have conferred on them full power, privilege, and jurisdiction to call,
convene, and pursue before them all transgressors of the Acts and
statutes, hold courts, and inflict punishments.
The unique proceeding of
constituting keepers of forests judges in breaches of forest laws
appears to have been effectual in checking theft, trespass, and
poaching. At all events, the suppression of such offences was not again
made the subject of exceptional legislation. By the time Charles the
Second came to the throne in 1661, all the ancient Acts, including the
one last quoted, had fallen into desuetude. Henceforward legislation had
for its object more the encouragement of planting than the punishment of
thieves and poachers. The first Parliament of Charles revived the Act
above noticed for the planting of woods, forests, and orchard's, passed
by the fourth Parliament of James the Fifth, and not, as the Act in
question has it, by the fourth Parliament of James the First. At this
period a small beginning had been made in planting the country, and the
little that had been done only showed how expedient and necessary it was
that more be accomplished in this line, alike for the purposes of
shipping and building and the improvement of the country. According to
Sheriff Barclay, the Act of Charles the Second is still partly in
observance. It was ordained that every heritor, life-renter, and
wodsetter within the ancient kingdom of Scotland, with £1000 of yearly
valued rent, shall enclose four acres of land yearly at least, and plant
the same about with oak, elm, ash, plain, sauch, and other timber at
three yards distance. The enclosing of lands by planting and ditching
was also provided for; and for the better encouragement of heritors, and
for the preserving of the planting and enclosures, it was farther
enacted that whoever cut or broke trees should pay the heritors £20 for
each tree, and in the event of the offending party not being able to
meet the fine, he was to be liable to labour for the space of six weeks
to the heritor, in return for “meat and drink allanerly.” It will be
observed that tree cutting was again lifted out of the category of
crime, and no doubt at the state of civilisation the country had
reached, the penalty of death attached by James the Fifth to such
offences was considered barbarous. Various other laws were passed in the
seventeenth century for the punishment of timber thieves and malicious
destroyers of trees, but the fine does not exceed £10 Scots. About the
end of this century proprietors had taken up tree planting with
something like earnestness, but there is reason to believe that they
were induced to do so by considerations of profit more than by the
statutes anent planting.
THE DESTRUCTION AND
RE-APPEARANCE OP WOODS IN SCOTLAND—CURIOUS BOOK BY THE LAIRD OP BORLUM—DR
JOHNSON’S TOUR.
The history of every
country shows that forests have decayed before the advance of
civilization, by a law which was perhaps never in more vigorous
operation than at the present time, when colonisation is proceeding
briskly, and vast tracts of country are being cleared for the plough.
But there is a material difference between decay and total
disappearance. Colonists of to-day foresee the suicidal policy of
clearing the country of their adoption entirely of timber, but our
forefathers seem to have been charmingly oblivious to the ultimate
result of continually cutting down, and never growing, either by
guarding the natural forests, or by planting. However, the circumstances
were extenuating. National wars and intestinal broils for centuries
absorbed the attention and the energies of the nobles, and prevented
them giving much attention to the beautifying of their estates, or to
the future wants of the nation, particularly in the Highlands. It was
only after the Crowns had been joined by the accession of Jamies the
Sixth of Scotland to the throne vacated by Queen Elizabeth, that
plantations began to be formed sparingly, and the ecclesiastical peace
of Scotland had been secured before anything like a taste for planting
was general. By this time the eighteenth century had been ushered in.
England was far in advance of this country in respect of planting,
thanks to such men as Evelyn, who took up the cause of tree culture with
enthusiasm. For in England the clearances of timber had been no less
remarkable than they were in Scotland. In the extensive transference of
property on the seizure of Church lands by Henry the Eighth (1537), much
timber was sold by the new owners, for the cowled occupants of the
monasteries in the fertile districts in which they settled, both in
England and Scotland, took a pride in surrounding their establishments
with silvan beauty. Some of the oldest and most noted trees in Scotland,
such, for instance, as the Capon Oak at Jedburgh, reared themselves
under the shadows of the monasteries and abbeys. Hollingshead states
that so much timber was thrown into the market after the downfall of the
monasteries that cottagers who formerly built their dwellings of the
willow and other cheap and common woods now constructed them -of the
best oak. The demand for timber constantly increased, and the value of
arable land rising at the same time, the natural forests became greatly
circumscribed, till at last timber came to be imported. Then, and not
till then, did proprietors of lands think of protecting the native
woods, and afterwards of enclosing waste ground and allowing it to be
naturally sown. Planting was not general in England till about the
middle of the seventeenth century, half a century and more sooner than
in Scotland.
John Evelyn was, as has
been said, the first who, in 1664, rendered an extremely important
service to the cause of arboriculture by the publication of his Silva, a
quaint and interesting work which excited much interest at the time, and
is now regarded as a valuable curiosity. He pleads the national
importance of timber-growing with all the force of argument and
eloquence at the command of a facile pen, and cites some strange things
in support of his contention. “I have heard,” he says, “that in the
great expedition of 1588 it was expressly enjoined the Spanish
commanders of that classical Armada that if, after landing, they should
not be able to subdue our nation and make good their conquest, they
should yet be sure not to leave a tree standing in the forest of Dean.”
This by way of showing that the country’s enemies appreciated the value
of timber to a nation so much that they planned its destruction as a
means of weakening the British Empire. Coal had not come into anything
like general use in Evelyn’s time, and much wood was consumed as fuel.
The increase of “devouring iron mills,” or foundries, he accordingly
condemns as a sore drain on the timber of the country, and he exclaims
in his indignation, “Oh that some of them were even removed into another
country,” as they threatened to ruin old England. It would be better, he
thinks, for the nation to purchase its iron ready-made from America than
to exhaust the woods at home in its manufacture. He also mentions with
approval a curious statute passed by Queen Elizabeth against the
converting of timber trees into charcoal or other fuel for the use of
iron mills if the trees were one foot square and grew within fourteen
miles of the sea or navigable rivers. King James the First of England
granted a patent to one of his subjects in 1612 for a scheme which the
patentee estimated would effect a saving of £300,000 a year in timber.
His secret was to melt iron and other metals with pit coal and sea coal
(the name coal first went by in London, as it was mostly conveyed to the
metropolis in ships), but, like many another patent, it did not succeed.
That is a great pity, says Evelyn. At one time, he says in another part
of his discourse, the whole island was one vast forest, and wood was so
abounding that the people got as much as they liked for the carrying,
whereas as he wrote it was so scarce that it was sold by weight. Even
the great Caledonian Forest of Scotland had been demolished, so that
there was not a single tree to show for it. His lament in this
particular is, by the way, an exaggeration of the case. So much for John
Evelyn; he died in 1706 at the age of 86, thus proving, as he says in
his book, that the planting or many trees conduces to long life. Let us
hope that it was also equally true of him, as he ventures to predict of
others, that his plantations ensured his entrance into “those glorious
regions above, the celestial Paradise planted with perennial groves and
trees, all bearing immortal fruit.”
In 1727 a very curious
book bearing on the bleak and barren aspect of Scotland was issued from
the Edinburgh press. A pencilled note on the copy before us states that
it was written by Brigadier Mackintosh of Borlum, while a prisoner in
the Castle of Edinburgh. We believe there is no reason to doubt the
statement, though there is no clue to the authorship on the title page,
which simply bears that it is the work of “a lover of his country.” The
title of the volume is, after the fashion of the time, ample and
explanatory — “An essay on ways and means for ' enclosing, fallowing,
planting, &c., Scotland; and that in sixteen years at farthest.” On the
same page is the announcement that the volume was “ printed and sold at
Mr Fairbaim’s shop in the Parliament Close (Edinburgh); and at Mr
Millar’s, over against St Clemen’s Church in the Strand, London.” The
author gives many evidences of a classical education; indeed, the
allusions to Greek and Roman literature are somewhat pedantic and
obtrusive in a work devoted to the discussion of practical agriculture.
However, there is a great deal of shrewd thinking and pointed speaking
in the essay, and whatever its influence may have been, the policy
advocated for improving the appearance of the country, the system of
agriculture, and the condition of the people, was timeous, and proceeded
on correct lines, barring perhaps his proposal that his scheme should be
carried out by force of statute. It appears to have been the case that
in the reafforesting of the country, enlightened sentiment had greater
effect than the terrors of the law, and by the time this publication saw
the light, proprietors had begun to turn their attention both to
planting and fallowing. The essay is addressed to the British
Parliament, and it would seem, from the opening sentences of the
dedication, that the author in his retirement had some doubts concerning
its reception in high quarters. “No doubt,” he says, “but some of your
lordships’ too officious friends in Scotland, to show how zealous they
are to serve you, and how watchful against any attempts may touch your
interest or dignity, may not only anticipate but endeavour to give to
your lordships a wrong turn of my only design in writing this little
essay ; and by the first post write :—Here is an anonymous and saucy
fellow has writ a piece, and pretends improvements, but in it he squints
at your superiorities: we advise your lordships you knock this plausible
pamphlet on the head, and not allow it a motion in Parliament.” While
repudiating any attempt against superiorities, he boldly states his
opinion that if he was superior he would prefer “the solid greatness of
enlarging his estate, to the empty, very often useless, one of being
superior.” Vassals, he points out, are unsuited to the altered
circumstances of the times. In days gone by they were useful in the
hunting field, but the word hunting was now obsolete, for there was a
standing law against such convocations; and even if there was not a law,
there was nothing to hunt, as the few mountains and wastes left to red
deer were rented by the superiors themselves for the raising of black
cattle.
Our author describes
Scotland as barren and uninteresting. Generally speaking, the country
was destitute of woods, and some shires were entirely without a bush or
stake in them. But he observed a more general disposition among the
gentry towards improving than formerly, and in many shires some
“virtuous and generous gentlemen ” had already given a good example in
planting and enclosing. Those worthy patriots who had begun to give a
new aspect of beauty to their beats, he considers worthy of having their
names transmitted to posterity in letters of gold. Among others he
mentions the Duchess Gordon; Sir William Gordon of Invergordon; a Mr
Murray, who had reclaimed many acres of rich meadow out of a large lake
in Moray; and General Ross, the laird of Balnagown, “a favourite of the
virtuous and beneficent goddess Ceres, as well as of the martial and
eloquent gods Mars and Mercury, for in his retirement he has convinced
the world that he can, in a remote country seat, make himself
conspicuous ns well as iu the army and senate house.” Since the union of
the two kingdoms, proprietors had generally been in the habit of
spending their time and money in London, and as their estates were
entrusted, as regards management, to chamberlains and factors, whose
principal object was to supply their employers with money, there was not
much incentive to rapid improvement. Mr Mackintosh regrets the indolence
of the proprietors, and reminds them of the industry of the people of
former ages. Had the people of a former period not torn the land then
ploughed out of moors, woods, and even rocks, and that at a time when
they were constantly in arms, they of the later ages would, he thought,
certainly have starved. On what estate had a rig of arable land been
added since the union of the two crowns, though there had been better
opportunities for improving the acres left by industrious predecessors?
Forests and woods which formerly covered so much of the country had
disappeared, and left room for the enlargement of the patrimony left by
industrious ancestors, but things went from bad to worse, and luxury and
spend* thriftiness held sway. The land was slovenly tilled, the system
of agriculture wretched, and the country starving for wood—truly a
terrible state of things for a patriotic mind to contemplate.
The scheme here
propounded for the planting and enclosing of the nation was simple
enough. Proprietors and tenants were to be compelled to enclose and
plant so many acres of their lands yearly, the former obtaining the
means for estate improvements by staying at home, free from the
importunate attacks of “ duns and harpies,” and so retrenching their
expenditure; the latter affording the moans in return for being relieved
of all manner of service to his landlord, except the furnishing of
firewood. “ For in Scotland, the nation being entirely destitute of
forest, or, indeed, any quantity of woods to furnish bumwood, and
pit-coal being found but in a little corner of it, both of which firing
might be carried by a few loads; and a cellar of coals, or a moderate
stack of bumwood, will serve for firing to a gentleman’s house in
England or in the south of Scotland a year; whereas 20, yea 40, that
bulk or number of loads will not serve of the dried moss they use in the
most parts of Scotland; wherefore, I am afraid my farmer must serve his
landlord in firing as formerly.” Besides throwing some light on the
household economy of the beginning of the eighteenth century, this
passage illustrates the strange literary style of the book. At this
period, it was one thing to resolve upon planting, and quite another
thing to obtain plants. Transit was not only difficult and expensive,
but plants were exceedingly scarce. At a much later period, when
planting was begun in Strathspey, we believe the plants were carried in
baskets on people’s backs all the way from Perth. At the time of which
our author speaks, the country had been so denuded of woods, forests,
and even hedgerows, that quicksets were not obtainable. Speaking to this
great obstacle to a policy of planting, the laird of Borlum suggests
that the quicksets must be procured from England or Holland until this
nation could raise nurseries of its own. There were but few nurserymen
in Scotland then, and scarcity gave rise to extortion. To obviate this
drawback, he proposed the formation of nurseries in each shire, to be
managed by a well skilled gardener, who was to be allowed a competent
salary by public contribution until he raised trees sufficient to sell
at a profit, procuring the seedlings from England or Holland, where they
were sold at a cheap rate, with public money. In England much had
already been accomplished in the way of planting, and our author
proposes the employment of English labourers in the beautifying of
Scotch acres, so that it might be said that Scotland, from being one of
the poorest, ugliest, and most barren countries of Europe, had become in
a very few years one of the richest, most beautiful, and fertile of the
nations of the earth. It was a strange circumstance that the general
population regarded enclosing and planting with aversion, and did
everything they could to prevent the improvement. The public seemed to
view the new policy with alarm, as threatening their liberties and
privileges, and weakening their hold on the land. On this point, Borlum
says If we don’t procure their concurrence we shall very hardly improve
either our mains or some. parcels of our estates, much less the whole;
for generally these men, women, and children have conceived such
aversion to enclosing, that they will and do, and I have felt it,
destroy by night what you do by day ; they’ll drive their cattle and
break down your new and unsolid bank, break, yea, cut your trees, and
that so cunningly that next day he who did, or ordered the doing of it,
shall bestir himself the most active to find out the wicked folks that
last night broke so many of the laird’s planting.” Several Acts were
passed to prevent such enormities, and there was a continual hunt for
criminals. Money was scarce too, consequent in a great measure on a more
luxurious style of living introduced since the Union, and there were
many objections to the planting policy on the ground that it cost money,
and that there was more necessity for encouraging the native industries,
the herring fishing for example, and so create wealth before going in
for ornament. But as Defoe says in his Caledonia :—
“With wealth and people
happy, rich, and free,
You’d first improve the land and then the sea."
About half-a-century
later (1773) Dr Samuel Johnson made his celebrated tour to the Hebrides.
In the interval between this famous journey of the lexicographer and the
publication we have just given an account of, a great deal had been
accomplished, and was still being accomplished, in the beautifying of
the countryside, but such had been the nakedness of the land that an
enormous amount of planting had to be done before the appearance of the
country was much altered. Dr Johnson seems to have overlooked the
comparatively young plantations, and countenanced only old trees,
remnants of the silvan grandeur of a former age. Such monarchs were, of
course, few and far between. Bearing this in mind, the Doctor’s
observations on the want of trees are more intelligible:—
“From the bank of the
Tweed to St Andrews I had never seen a single tree, which I did not
believe to have grown up far within the present century. Now and then
about a gentleman’s house stands a small plantation, which in Scotch is
called a policy, but of these there are few, and those few all very
young. The variety of sun and shade is here utterly unknown. There is no
tree for either shelter or timber. The oak and the thorn is equally a
stranger, and the whole country is extended in uniform nakedness, except
that in the road between Kirkcaldy and Cowpar, I passed for a few yards
between two hedges. A tree might be a show in Scotland as a horse in
Venice. At St Andrews Mr Boswell found only one, and recommended it to
my notice; I told him that it was rough and low, or looked as if I
thought so. This, said he, is nothing to another a few miles off. I was
still less delighted to hear that another tree was not to be seen
nearer. Nay, said a gentleman that stood by, I know but of this and that
tree in the country. The lowlands of Scotland had once undoubtedly an
equal portion of woods with other countries. Forests are everywhere
gradually diminished, as architecture and cultivation prevail by the
increase of people and the introduction of arts. But I believe few
regions have been denuded like this, where many centuries must have
passed in waste without the least thought of future supply. Davies
observes, in his account of Ireland, that no Irishman had ever planted
an orchard. For that negligence some excuse might be drawn from an
unsettled state of life, and the instability of property; but in
Scotland possession has long been secure and inheritance regular, yet it
may be doubtful 'whether, before the Union, any man between Edinburgh
and England had ever set a tree.”
Scotch proprietors had
begun to feel a little proud of their plantations, and Johnson’s
“Journey” was much abused on account of what was said on the subject of
trees. Boswell smoothed matters considerably in his “Journal,” published
after the death of Johnson, by explaining his friend’s mental attitude
on the subject. He expected to find a landscape similarly clothed in
foliage to that of England, and was disappointed, for, comparatively
speaking, Scotland was naked, even in the estimation of the
conscientious biographer of the great man. When Dr Johnson refers to the
country in the neighbourhood of Fort-Augustus, he again remarks that the
country is totally denuded of its wood, but that stumps both of oaks and
firs showed that there had once been a forest of large timber. Curiously
enough, Boswell did not come across quite so much desolation; but then
he is more correct in detail, and Johnson is delightfully general in
what he says of his journey, excepting perhaps when he speaks of his
dinner. “ It was a delightful day,” says Boswell, “ Loch Ness, and the
road upon the side of it, shaded with birch trees, and the hills above
it, pleased us much.” The woods, had he penetrated some of our Highland
glens, would have pleased him as much as the magnificence of the
scenery; for, as will be shown farther on, there were at this time many
large areas of natural forest in existence. The Doctor generalised too
much in his narrative. When leaving Fort-Augustus he must have passed
through a fringe of the old forest of Dalcattack, which lies on the west
of the Moriston River, and facing Loch Ness, where many old trees should
have been visible. On the Loch Ness side, this extensive forest was
composed of oak and birch ; and on the shady side of the glen the native
fir flourished and still flourishes, some of the trees being at least
150 years old. In 1665, we are told that a ship of prodigious bigness,
for bulk and burden—never such a one had been seen on the north seas—was
built at Inverness from fir and oak wood supplied from Dalcattack by
Lord Lovat, who still owns the property. The antiquity of the forests of
the Caledonian valley is attested by the circumstance that while Loch
Dochfour was being deepened in connection with the construction of the
canal, a piece of oak tree was dredged up which measured 30 feet round,
and it appeared to be a small portion of the original tree, which
probably contained 220 cubic feet of timber. It was black as ebony, and
perfectly fresh at heart. Trees of a size never seen growing in this
country have been dug up on the mainland of Scotland, and also in the
islands, where nowadays a tree will not grow.
THE BEGINNING OP PLANTING
IN SCOTLAND—PLANTATIONS IN INVERNESS-SHIRE—PREMIUMS FOR PLANTING—ACREAGE
UNDER WOOD.
In the latter half of the
seventeenth century, the little planting effected in Scotland, and
particularly in the Northern Counties, consisted principally of
ornamental avenues and clumps to beautify the ancestral homes of the
landed gentry. The taste for these embellishments was mainly acquired in
England. After the union of the English and Scottish Crowns in the
person of James the Sixth, the nobility and gentry followed the Court to
London, and there spent the incomes their estates yielded, and from
which Scotland was wont to be benefitted. The Highland Chiefs tasted the
gaieties and luxuries of metropolitan life when they journeyed thither
with loyal or business motives, and gradually they fell in with the
fashion of their day. At the period of which we speak, the hoary
clansman might have said—
“Mansions once
Knew their own masters.
Now the legitimate and rightful lord
Is but a transient guest.”
But undoubtedly one
beneficial result of this intercourse with England was the spread of
more enlightened views regarding tillage and planting. The homes of old
England were generally enshrined in a wealth of silvan beauty, and tree
culture was becoming an important department with English landholders,
who had a view both to profit and embellishment. Arboriculture was now a
distinct science, and a progressive one too. As far back as the middle
of the sixteenth century new trees had been extensively introduced into
England, among others the spruce fir, the stone pine, the evergreen
cypress, the sweet bay, and the walnut Some time later the evergreen oak
and arborvitse made their appearance. The first accounts we have of the
introduction of many of the timber trees are given by botanists and
apothecaries in London, who gathered together every description of
foreign herbage, and formed the most extensive collections of medicinal
plants extant at the time. Botanic gardens began to be established
throughout England about the middle of the seventeenth century, and the
introduction of hardy trees was thus greatly facilitated.
In Scotland the Botanic
Garden was formed in 1680, and in 1683. the cedar of Lebanon was one of
the trees introduced into it. The most important foreign trees which
made their appearance in this country during the seventeenth century
were the cedar, the silver fir, the larch, horse chestnut, American
plane, black and white American spruce firs, scarlet oak, Norway maple,
weeping willow, and many others. During the eighteenth century the
number of species of foreign plants introduced was very large, amounting
to nearly 500, but three-fourths of these were shrubs. The timber trees
consisted chiefly of oaks, pines, poplars, maples, and thorns, species
or varieties of trees formerly introduced. It will be seen from these
extensive importations that the British arboretum stood much in need of
improvement, enlarged though it had been to some extent by the Romans,
and the monks of the middle ages. In their intercourse with England,
Scotch lairds came into full contact with the new enthusiasm for tree
planting, and they could not but notice the beneficial effect produced
on the country, both from a beautifying and a commercial aspect.
Scotland, as we have seen, was experiencing a timber famine, the natural
forests having been destroyed through indiscriminate cutting and the
pasturing of cattle in them, for the young trees were eaten up as they
appeared. Had this practice of pasturing flocks been put a stoppage to
sooner than it was, the native forests of Scotland would have been of
much greater extent than they are to-day. When once the Scotch nobility
took up planting in earnest, they carried out their ideas with
characteristic vigour. They were no longer content just to see their
castles
“Embosomed deep in tufted
trees,”
but set about making the
most of the ground on their respective estates considered suitable for
the growth of profitable wood. Notwithstanding the numerous importations
of foreign trees, it is remarkable that the introduction of the larch
into Scotland from England (where it had existed for a century) in the
early part of the eighteenth century, was the greatest acquisition of
the time, and distinguished the period beyond any other circumstance
connected with British arboriculture. A writer on this subject states,
that between 1730 and 1740 larch plants were in great request by many of
the Scottish landowners, who planted them to a small extent as an
experiment, and generally ruined them by inserting them in soil too rich
and cultivated for their future success. The only distinct account we
have of the planting of these trees, however, is given in a statement
published in the Transactions of the Highland Society, which says that
the first larches planted in Athole were brought from London by Mr
Menzies of Migevy in 1738, and consisted of sixteen plants. Five were
planted at Dunkeld and eleven at Blair. Of the five, two still grace the
lawn at Dunkeld, and are known by the name of “the parent larches.” The
largest of them at present measures 22 ft. in girth at one foot from the
ground. Of those planted at Blair, one 106 ft. high was cut down, from
which a coffin was made for the celebrated Duke of Athole, who planted
the tree so extensively. About 10,000 imperial acres of larches were
planted on the Athole estate between 1738 and 1826.
The Laird of Culloden
seems to have been among the earliest planters in Inverness-shire,
having completed a considerable plantation of Scotch fir between 1730
and 1740. About 1760 an extensive planting was begun on the estate of
Kinmyles, where every acre of land that was incapable of being improved
to arable land was planted. The utilisation of ground that is
unimprovable, by planting trees suited to the character of the soil, is
the great Becret of the profitable growth of timber, and we are told
that other proprietors followed the example given at Kinmyles. “One
gentleman in particular,” says the writer of the Statistical Account of
the parish of Inverness (1794), “who kept an account of his operations,
planted 15,000 forest trees of the following kind, elm, birch, oak, and
sycamore, which occupied a space of 800 acres on Dunean, one of the
Drumalbin range of mountains; in short, the face of this range to the
east, and as far as the property of this gentleman in this parish
extends to the west—with the exception of what was fit for arable—in
all, about six miles is covered with thriving plantations. Planting is
still going on with little remission, so that in a few years there will
probably not be a single acre useless in this parish.” The woods here
referred to are still perpetuated, and contain much valuable timber.
Hugh Rose of Kilravock is
mentioned by the writer of the second Statistical Account (1845), the
Rev. Alex. Campbell, minister of the parish of Croy and Dalcross, as one
of the earliest planters in Inverness-shire. He must have made the
plantation referred to in the following paragraph about 1740, if Mr
Campbell is correct:—“About 100 years ago" says our authority, “Hugh
Rose, the thirteenth of that name, planted a considerable extent of moor
to the north of the castle; and such was the state of the •country and
want of roads that the fir plants were carried from Perth in creels
suspended from crook saddles. They have grown to a large size, and are
of the best quality. It appears, however, that in the same place there
had been a plantation of the Caledonian pine, some of which are still
standing, and of uncommon dimensions, serving for years as landmarks to
mariners in the Moray Firth. Their lateral branches are equal in size to
planted fir of forty years’ growth. One lately cut down shewed the
venerable age of 180 years, and there are some remaining apparently much
more ancient; whereas, the fir of Canadian origin, now generally
planted, seldom lives above 80 years, and, in most cases, shows before
that period symptoms of decay. It were well that the seeds of our
ancient forest pines were sown, as they are more congenial to our soil
and climate. About the year 1776, Mr Davidson of Cantray planted about
300 acres on a useless and arid waste not worth 6d per acre, the
proceeds of which, being carefully marked from the time of thinning,
till the whole waa sold about twelve years ago, were found to exceed the
simple fee of that part of the Cantray property, yielding now about
£1000 of rent, by nearly double the original purchase price; besides,
the moor, formerly useless, is now, by the foliage of the trees,
converted into excellent pasture. That venerable patriot, at various
periods, planted nearly 1000 acres. Plantations were made to much the
satfie extent, and much about the same time, by the late Mrs Rose of
Kilravock—a lady remarkable for all those graces and accomplishments
that adorn the female character, as well as for high literary
acquirements and practical good sense. The proprietors of Culloden,
Holm, and Leys contributed their share in beautifying the country by
planting ; and lately the proprietor of Inshes has planted upwards of
400 acres with larch, oak, and other kinds of wood.”
Leaving the eighteenth
century and scanning the present, we find that the Highland and
Agricultural Society, by offering various premiums for the introduction
of new timber trees, and for extensive planting, has done much to
increase the tree acreage throughout the country. The Seafield
plantations are the most remarkable achievement of the kind in Scotland,
not omitting those of Athole. We are indebted to Mr Thos. Hunter’s
“Woods, Forests, and Estates of Perthshire,” an admirable book lately
issued, for our account of the Highland Society’s operations in the way
of encouraging planting between 1809 and 1823. “When the Highland and
Agricultural Society was founded in 1784, another decided advance was
made. In 1809 the Society, convinced that there was a good deal of
ground, especially on the north-west coast of Scotland, which it would
be advantageous both for proprietors and the country to have planted,
offered honorary premiums to proprietors in this part of the country who
should, betwixt February, 1810, and 10th April, 1812, plant the greatest
extent of ground, after being properly enclosed ; one half of the plants
to be larch or hardwood. The premiums excited considerable attention,
and the result was that a gold medal, bearing a suitable inscription,
was awarded to each of the following gentlemen:—Alex. Maclean of Ardgour,
Alex. Maclean of Coll, Ranald Macdonald of Staffa, Hugh Innes of
Lochalsh, M.P., and John Mackenzie of Applecross, all of whom had formed
extensive plantations on their properties. In 1821 and 1822 honorary
premiums were awarded for the greatest extent of ground planted and
enclosed within the county of Dumbarton, the Isle of Skye and small
islands adjacent, as well as the Black Isle in Ross-shire. The first
premium (a piece of plate valued at 15 guineas) for the islands was
awarded to Lord Macdonald of the Isles (who thus in part redeemed a
promise made in 1616 at Edinburgh, when he was engaged to build civil
and comlie houses, and have planting about them), who planted 149,600
trees; and a similar premium for the mainland was awarded to Colin
Mackenzie of Kilcoy, who planted 501,000 trees, on about 379 acres. A
piece of plate, value 15 guineas, was also awarded to H. Macdonald
Buchanan or Drumakill, Dumbartonshire, and Sir James Colquhoun of Luss.
The first premium awarded to a tenant for planting appears to have been
in 1823, when eight guineas were granted to Lachlan M‘Lean, tacksman of
Tallisker, Isle of Skye, as a mark of the Society’s approbation for his
having planted a considerable extent of ground, after being properly
enclosed, upon his farm. In the following year we note that a piece of
plate, valued 15 guineas, was voted to Colonel M‘Neill, of Barra, for
extensive planting.” With reference to the last-mentioned undertaking,
we believe Colonel M‘Neill transplanted his trees, which were doing
extremely well, in ground about his mansion-house, as an embellishment;
but they had not the same shelter, and, the soil being light sand, they
pined away.
So much has been
accomplished, <and is still being accomplished, in Inverness-shire by
planting, that the county at the present moment contains about 60,000
acres of wood more than any other county in Scotland. According to a
return obtained in 1812, the acreage then under wood in Scotland was
913,695. Writing in 1727, Mr Mackintosh of Borlum, already referred to,
remarks :— “ Generally our country is destitute of woods, some shires
entirely without a bush or a stake in them so that the energy of Scotch
proprietors in beautifying the country was something remarkable during
the eighteenth century. In a state of nakedness at the opening of one
century, when it entered upon the next, every Scottish hill, dale, and
plain was richly and luxuriantly bestowed with that silvan scenery which
never palls. The demand for timber lessening about the year 1815,
proprietors preferred to reap what profit they could rather than
commence new undertakings, and the consequence was that the timber began
to disappear, and was not replaced to the same extent, nor so much with
a view to profit. Sixty years elapsed ere Government called for another
return for woods, and then, that is in 1872, it appeared that there had
been a falling off to the extent of 179,205 acres in Scotland since
1812. The next return shewed that plantations in Scotland had again
rapidly recovered lost ground, there being an increase of 95,000 acres
in nine years, but that progress has not been maintained. A comparison
of four of the returns obtained for Scotland during the century gives
the following result:—
According to the acreage
of the two countries it is interesting to observe that Scotland,
notwithstanding its mountainous surface, is equally well wooded as
England. The following extract from the returns for Scotland will show
the relative positions of Inverness and the Northern Counties in respect
of woods, orchards, and nursery grounds:—
The four counties which
head the list in the Agricultural Returns for 1888 are as follows :
STRATHSPEY—PROTECTING THE
OLD FORESTS—FIRES—IRONWORKS-REMARKABLE SALES OP PINE—YORK COMPANY’S
OPERATIONS.
Upper Strathspey would,
in remote times, form about the centre of the great Caledonian forest,
which is said to have: extended from Glenlyon and Rannoch to Strathspey
and Strath-glass, and from Glencoe eastward to the Braes of Mar. Rothie*
murchus derives its etymology from the Gaelic IZath-mor-gius or the
great stretch of fir, a designation not inappropriate at the present
time. In many parts of Strathspey, now bleak and bare, labourers in the
course of excavating operations have turned up trunks of trees, enormous
in their dimensions, from the moss— which is, as everybody knows,
remarkable for its preservative qualities—where they had lain for
centuries. From its inland, inaccessible situation—speaking of times
gone by—Strathspey must have been less exposed to the ravages of the
invading foe,, who, in ancient days, waged incessant war against the
aboriginal inhabitants of the Caledonian mountains, and hence the Spey
portion of the historic forest remained for a much longer period
comparatively intact. The extreme suitability of the soil in Strathspey
also favoured the perpetuation of the forest, new generations of the
pine springing up quickly on ground which had been cleared either by
fire or axe. As civilisation progressed, and the growing population took
to the peaceful pursuits of husbandry, the Strathspey forests, like
those in other parts of Scotland, disappeared before the plough,
neglect, and the other human agencies at work in tree destruction. Had
the land been more adapted than it is. for agriculture, the pine tree
might, nay would, have been unable to hold its ground against the
encroachments of the farmer. But there were vast stretches, some of them
now peaty bogs, where the pine was nature’s best and only crop, and
there it was left in all its wild glory. The farmer demanded, however,
that his flocks should have the liberty of the forest herbage, which
added another danger; for the naturally sown seedlings were eaten up or
trampled upon, and the younger generations of pines were neither so
numerous nor so grand as their ancestors. Sometimes, too, devastating
fires would break out and lay bare whole districts. Such fires, says Mr
W. Fraser in his “Chiefs of Grant,” were of frequent occurrence. One
occurred accidentally in the forest of Abernethy in the year 1746, and
resulted in the destruction of near 2½ million trees before the progress
of the conflagration was arrested. On the occasion of another forest
fire, said to have taken place about 1770, and to have threatened
disastrous consequences, the laird sent the “fiery cross” through
Glen-Urquhart, to summon his dependants. These assembled to the number
of 500, armed with axes, but they succeeded in arresting the progress of
the flames only by cutting a gap 500 yards in width between the burning
wood and the rest of the forest. In the days of the clan feuds, it can
well be imagined that forest fires were not always accidental in their
origin. It was always a sweet revenge to see the sky ruddy with the
glare of flames in an enemy’s country, and the deed was easily and
quickly done, without a hostile marshalling of the clan. The forests on
the Urquhart estate of the Grant family were peculiarly liable to such
revengeful visitations, and the lairds bad frequent recourse to the
powers of law, and the more effectual power, in these days, of arms, in
defence of the extensive woods which then, as now, beautify the glen.
Nor did such dangers all come from without.
The people of Urquhart,
whom the Government were so anxious that the lairds of Grant should
civilise, appear to have subjected the woods to very harsh measures, the
depredators no doubt feeling secure because of their remoteness from the
home of the chief in Strathspey. A case arising out of these practices
was settled by the Earl of Moray in the Sheriff-Court at Inverness, on
17th October, 1563. Quite a trade in stolen wood seems to have sprung
up, and William Fraser of Stronie, son-in-law of the laird of Grant, who
appears to have had charge ofv Urquhart aud some of the Lovat property,
adopted as a repressive measure the expedient of stopping the passage of
Loch Ness. One Donald M‘Innes Mor complained of the blockade, and the
question went into Court. The defender, in his reply, aidmitted the
charge, and gave as his reason the damage done to the woods “pertenying
to him. to my Lord Lowet, and the Laird of Grant, of the quhilkis he
beris in charge, continuallie cuttit, pelit, and destroiit be the
travellores upon the said loucht” The decision in the complaint was—
First, that the passage of the loch should be “frie and unstoppit” in
all time to come, and that no impediment be made to any of the lieges.
Secondly, to prevent the woods being “cuttit pelit, and destroiit,” a
power of search was henceforth given to the provost and bailies of
Inverness, that they might arrest all green timber and bark brought to
the town’s market for sale, in any way, and from any place, unless the
bringer of the wood could produce a certificate from the baron on whose
lands he had got the trees. Failing such certificate, all such wood,
sold or unsold, was to be forfeited, and any one who had bought the wood
before the official inspection was to lose his money if the wood was
arrested. This Act was to come into operation on 1st November, 1563; and
stringent provisions were also made for staying the transit of all
timber from the port of Inverness. From the thorough nature of these
precautions, the offence seems to have developed into a very serious one
; but the effect was not lasting on the timber thieves of Glen-Urquhart.
Probably also the Magistrates of Inverness got tired of
certificate-collecting; at all events, ten years after, we find the
laird of Grant again complaining that his woods of Urquhart, which he
had been at great pains to preserve, were being wantonly destroyed by
the tenants. It is said that Highlanders never counted it a theft to
take a tree from the forest or a fish from the river; and it seems from
the terms of the complaint, that in this instance the Urquhart people
were simply enforcing an old right, including forest pasturage, which
had belonged to their ancestors in the loose times in which they lived.
The enclosing and preserving of the forest of Clunie would very probably
be regarded as an unwarranted withdrawal of an important privilege, and
we can imagine the lieges of that glen as much incensed over the new
fangled ways of the laird as any small crofter in Skye feels over the
deer forests of the present day. The laird’s petition drew a letter of
inhibition from King James the Sixth, dated 13 March, 1573. It sets
forth that “Johne Grant of Frewchye,” that being then the name of the
Grant estate in Strathspey, had been at great expense in dyking,
parking, and haining of the green woode and gowand trees and raedoes,”
within Clunie parish, but that the tenants and occupiers, having their
steadings in the vicinity, had been as busy “be day as vunder scilence
and cloude of nycht,” in breaking down the dykes, and allowing their
cattle and horses to destroy the growing trees, which were also cut down
and appropriated to the purposes of the tenants. As a “scharp remid
thereto,” the King oniamed that the names of the offenders were to be
proclaimed in public in their parish kirks; and a further proclamation
was to be made at Inverness, inhibiting all from destroying the woods,
under pain of the penalties already enforced by Parliament for their
protection.
These cases are worth
mentioning, as local illustrations of the causes which were at work in
the destruction of woods during this period, notwithstanding the
energetic efforts that were made to preserve them.
The Highland forests
began to acquire a more distinct commercial value, such as it was, about
the beginning of the 17th century. Scotch and English merchants became
the purchasers of vast stretches of wood in the north, and the bulk of
the timber found its way into the shipbuilding yards and the smelting
furnaces both in England and Scotland. The foundation of the great
British Navy was being laid in England. After the struggle of the
Spanish Armada, the tonnage of English, ships was steadily increased,
and the style of building revolutionised. The lofty forecastles and
poops, which had made earlier ships resemble Chinese junks, were
abolished, and the modem two-deckers, which, between then and the era of
iron ships, rendered such effective service in British battles, came in
their place. These shipbuilding operations gave an impetus to the trade
in timber, and as the English forests had been very much eaten up by
this time between shipbuilding and ironworking, Scotland must have
benefitted to a considerable extent by the demand for wood. About this
period, it would also appear, several ironworks were founded in various
parts of the Highlands in convenient proximity to the native pine
forests. How the promoters of these enterprises were induced to enter
upon such undertakings in remote Highland glens are geological and
economical mysteries which have not yet been satisfactorily explained. A
minimum of ironstone and a maximum of wood, which was the only fuel then
used, for smelting, must have been the general conditions which a little
experience revealed. Highland ironworks had a shortlived career, and
tradition knows very little about the mining operations connected with
their working. In an estate settlement entered into by Sir John Grant in
the year 1634, he reserves “liberty to draw dams and passages to the
ironworks in Urquhart, with liberty to put and build the said ironworks
on the lands, providing Sir John and his foresaids upheld the rental of
the lands where through and whereon the said dams, passages, and
ironworks should be drawn and built, and reserving in the same way the
use of the whole woods thereof for the use of the ironworks, *except to
serve the use of the countrey furthe of the woodis of Lochliter,
Inshebreines, Gartalie, and Dulsangie,’ at the will of the tenants and
inhabitants.” The minister of Urquhart makes no mention of ironworks in
his statistical account, and his geological remarks do not favour the
supposition of their having existed, at least owing to ore found in the
glen. “No beds of cromate of iron or other useful minerals have as yet
been discovered,” he says, speaking of a formation of unstratified
serpentine rock. Probably the explanation is that Sir John* Grant was
about this time prosecuting* a diligent search for ironstone on his
estates as a profitable means of disposing of his pine forests. Three
years before the settlement just mentioned he concluded a big sale of
wood in Strathspey with one Captain Mason, and the contract bears that
if any ironstone or minerals shall be found during its fulfilment within
the lands described, Sir John binds himself to join in co-partnership
with Captain Mason, and to furnish half the charges for erecting
ironworks. No discovery of this nature appears, however, to have been
made.
Sir John Grant, who
succeeded to the Grant estates in 1622, entered into several important
transactions in Highland timber, the principal one being the sale of his
own woods in Strathspey, which indicates that the forests there still
existed in luxuriance in the seventeenth century. A sale was concluded
with Capt. John Mason, who seems to have represented the Earl of
Tullibardine, of a strangely unbusiness-like character. It included the
woods of the parishes of Abemethie, Kincardine, and Glencairnie (or
Duthil), which were placed at the pleasure of the purchaser for a period
of forty-one years, the only stipulation being, that the rights of Sir
John and his tenants to cut and transport as much wood as they required
should be respected. The purchase price was £20,000 Scots, or £1666 of
our. money,, a figure which shows the low value of timber in Strathspey
over 250 years ago, owing, to want of facilities for transport. Sir John
guaranteed the purchaser “free transport, carriage, and convoy of the
said woods and timber throw and doune the river of Spey to the sea,
without paying toll or tax to ony persone or persones,” and liberty to
build a house and a timber wharf at the mouth of the river. Shortly
after his accession to the estate, Sir John entered into a contract with
the Laird of Lundie, whereby he became purchaser of the woods of certain
lands in Morar. Lundie, it may be mentioned, was one of the principal
actors in the historical “raid of Gillechriost,” which took place in
1603. By his agreement with Lundie, Sir John became possessor of all the
woods and growing trees on the lands of “Killeismorache, Kilnamuk,
Swordelane, Arethomechanane, and Brakegarrowneintoir”—names it is
scarcely possible now to recognise—on lease for 31 years, he undertaking
to sell the timber and give two-thirds of the price he obtained to the
laird of Lundie. The contract relates that the woods here mentioned were
altogether unprofitable; that hatred and deadly feuds had been incurred
in guarding them from molestation, and that no merchant would buy the
woods owing to the risk of losing his life. The latter sentence forms a
singular comment on the state of Glengarry at this period; and the fact
that the laird of Lundie could not sign his name to the above contract,
but had to get his hand guided by the notary, also throws some light on
the educational acquirements of Highland proprietors of the time. Sir
John—a love for trees appears to have run in the family—had also a
transaction in timber which has a connection with the three century
quarrel between the Mackintoshes and Lochiel for the possession of
Glenlui and Locharkaig. He was the means of bringing about a temporary
understanding with Lochiel. while the young chief of clan Mackintosh, to
whom Sir John was tutor and uncle, was in his minority. The terms of
agreement were that, in the meantime, Lochiel should obtain a lease of
the lands of Glenlui and Locharkaig, until The Mackintosh was in a
position to deal with the dispute himself, and that all the woods on the
lands so leased should be reserved to the laird of Grant, who expressed
his intention of selling them for the benefit of his nephew’s estate.
Security was given by Lochiel that the purchasers and workers would be
respected, he receiving the tenth part of the price for which the woods
should be sold. He bound himself to defend the merchants, cutters, and
transporters, not only from molestation by his clansmen, but “frae all
vither forraine peopill,” as Lords Lovat and Kintail were bound to the
merchants that had bought their woods.
The woods of Strathspey
were nature’s own sowing in the 17th and 18th centuries, there being no
attempt at forest management. The contracts with wood merchants were
cheap, loose in their terms, and prolonged, and the tenants of the
adjacent lands had their own sweet will of the forests, both in respect
of grazing and taking timber. That the forests, in these circumstances,
should have yielded even the fitful revenue they did says a good deal
for nature, and the capabilities of the tree and the soil. By the
beginning of the 18th century, timber had acquired a very much greater
value, and the transactions were of a more business-like character. This
appears from a sale effected in 1728 by Sir James Grant with the great
York Buildings Company. By the terms of the contract this Company was
granted a lease of the forests of Abemethy for fifteen years, during
which they were to cut and transport to sea 60,000 fir trees. For this
right the Company were to pay the sum of £7000 sterling in the course of
seven years. The principal station of the Company .was at Coulnakyle,
which was also leased to them, and they began by erecting sawmills and
iron furnaces, and making roads and bridges in the woods. Their chief
agent and superintendent was Mr Stephens, who resided at Coulnukyle. He
had previously been a member of Parliament, and such, we are told, was
the credit and influence of the Company, that for some years his notes
of hand passed readily for cash in Strathspey and the neighbourhood, as
bank notes now do. Rev. Mr Grant, in his Statistical Account, 1794,
designated the Company as “ the most profuse and profligate sets that
were ever heard of in this country.” “They used to display their vanity
by bonfires, and opening hogsheads of brandy to the country people, by
which five of them died in one night.” The Company ultimately became
insolvent, leaving the place without clearing off their debt to the
laird of Grant, but also leaving among the inhabitants a knowledge of
their improved system of working the forests, the effect of which was,
in some respects, beneficial. One of the improvements introduced was the
making of rafts, whereby large quantities of timber were floated down to
the sea. Before this time, Mr Grant observes, some trifling rafts were
sent down the river in a very awkward and hazardous manner. Ten or
twelve dozens of deals were tied together, and conducted down stream by
a man, sitting in what was called a currach. This vessel was made of a
hide, in the shape and about the size of a brewery kettle, broader above
than below, with ribs or hoops of wood, and a cross stick for the man to
sit on, who, with a paddle in his hand, went before the raft, to which
the currach was attached by a rope. Currachs were so light that men
carried them on their backs home from Speymouth. The Grants of Tulchan
are reported to have been the first to attempt the transport of timber
from the rich pine forests of Rothiemurchus, Abemethy, and Glenmore to
the river’s mouth by the currach. It may here be mentioned, in 1730, The
Chisholm sold to the York Buildings Company, “ his wood of whatever
kind, lying, standing, and growing on his lands and estate for the space
of thirty years, together with all mines and minerals that may be
discovered on the said lands, with power to the Company to manufacture,
use, and dispose upon the subjects disposed as their property at
pleasure,” for the sum of £2000. But by this time the Company had got
into difficulties, and the contract was not fulfilled. Soon after it was
signed wood cutters set to work, and cut down 2,400 great trees, which
were allowed to lie and rot, and all the return received by The Chisholm
was a decree, in absence, for payment of the contract price.
After the failure of the
York Buildings Company, in 1731, contracts were frequently entered into
by the lairds of Grant for the sale of woods; and one made by Sir James
Grant with two London merchants, for the sale of 100,000 of the best
pines of Abemethy and Duthil, stipulated that his eldest son, Mr
Ludovick Grant, should become partner with them. A still later contract
was made, in 1769, for the sale of one million choice fir trees of
Abemethy and Dulnan, to be cut during the ensuing fifteen years. Other
evidence is extant that Scotland was not so destitute of woods as was
represented. So late as 1790 the Glenmore fir woods sold for £\0,000,
and shipbuilding was busy at Speymouth, from timber here supplied. But
while this is so, it was, as we have said, only in these remote places
(Glenmore defied many a wood contractor before then) it survived in any
quantity. Abernethy Glenmore (Duke of Gordon), Rothiemurchus, and
Glenfishie (Mr Mackintosh) were, in 1790, said to contain more wood than
was to be found in Scotland altogether.
8TRATHSPBY—EXTENT OF
PLANTATIONS—PLANTING FROM THE NURSERY.
After the extensive
clearances incessantly carried on during the 18th century, Strathspey
looked bleak and naked, and the eye sought in vain for that silvan charm
which was its native glory, but had passed away under the woodman’s axe.
But a new era was about to dawn ; and just as last century is noted for
the disappearance of Speyside woods, so will the 19th century be
memorable for their re-appearance in even greater luxuriance. Planting
seems to have been commenced on the Strathspey poses-sions of the Hcuse
of Grant in 1811; at least the memoranda do not go farther back than
that year, and if any planting had been effected before then it must
have been on a small scale. Sir Francis W. Grant—1840-53—was the largest
planter of trees in Great Britain in the present century. By 1847, it is
recorded that he had planted 31,686,482 young trees—Scotch fir, larch,
and hardwoods- -an extent which had not been approached by a British
landowner since the vast plantations made by the Duke of Athole, in the
middle of the previous century. For these plantations, which were
effected in the districts of Cullen, Strathspey, and Glen-Urquhart, he
was awarded the gold medal of the Highland and Agricultural Society. His
successor continued these operations even on a more gigantic scale, and
with the intention of extending the whole area of woods on the property
to 60,000 acres. But death stepped in ; two chiefs were laid in the
grave in rapid succession; and when 50,000 acres had been placed under
wood the policy of the estate was in this matter changed. Tree planting
was entirely and abruptly stopped. On a rough estimate, the number of
trees planted on the Seafield estates during the last half century
cannot be much short of two hundred millions. The three great divisional
forests are those of Duthil, Grantown, and Abemethy, where crops of
grand timber are being reared, such as never before clad the hillsides
in this old home of the pine. Tree planting may be a slow method of
making a fortune, but it must be a marvellously sure one. Between thirty
and fifty years hence, the revenue these mighty forests will yield
should prove tremendous, and a wood-cutting industry will be set up such
as was never eclipsed even in the palmy days of the famous York Company.
With planting on such a magnitude in progress, the establishment of a
nursery was a necessity on practical as well as economic grounds. One,
over twelve acres in extent, was established in 1854, the site selected
being at Abernethy, where, on the occasion of our visit, in 1884, there
were considerably over two million plants preparing for transference to
the hillsides. Although the nursery was so large, the wood manager, Mr
J. G. Thompson, who entered the service of the estate in 1859, was
seldom able to grow all the plants he required for the plantations, for
the well known reason that it is impossible to keep ground continuously
under a crop of fir plants. In buying in plants, the wood manager had
necessarily to be careful, for the native fir of Strathspey is an
altogether superior tree, and it would never have done to give a
degenerate species a habitation alongside it. In alluding to this point,
Grigor remarks that “ several instances are known of plantations grown
from seeds during last century from the celebrated native forests on the
Spey, and although they occupy 9oil of various qualities, the timber in
all these woods has been famed for its quality, while, in several
instances, adjoining woods of the same age, and on the same description
of soil, grown from degenerate plantations, yielded wood very inferior,
the march boundary of the lauds sometimes forming the line between the
good and the bad timber.” About twenty years ago, when planting on the
Strathspey estates had reached its period of greatest activity, upwards
of two millions of plants were put into the ground each year. Planting
was begun in October, and continued till the spring. By this arrangement
the plant suffers no check in its growth, for it is transferred when in
a ripened state, and, if it takes at all congenially to its home, it
responds to the impulse of the next season as usual. When a piece of
ground was to be planted, the operations consisted always of enclosing,
and generally draining. Sometimes the natural drainage was so good that
the expense of artificial drainage was not necessary, but when such work
was required, it was usually done a summer or two before the planting
began, in order that the soil might have time to dry, for the fir likes
a well-drained bed; hence its magnificence in Strathspey, where the
character of the soil is a dry gravel, with a porous sub-soil, and very
little in it •of the nature of pan. “There is no other tree that grows
so freely,” says Grigor, “and produces timber so valuable on poor soil
of very opposite qualities. It luxuriates on the dry and gravelly
heath-covered moors, its roots penetrate among the fissures and debris
of rocks, and support the tree in the most scanty resources of almost
every formation.” This has been the wood manager’s experience of the
pine tree in the great undertaking he has so successfully managed during
the last thirty years. The plantations have generally been formed on
moor ground, previously used for grazing purposes, and some of it very
poor even for that. But there the pine flourishes. The process of
planting is not so tedious as one would suppose. Two foresters, assisted
by a woman, will, in fair ground, plant 1400 trees per day <each, which
is sufficient for an acre, placing the plants 4J feet Apart. Planting is
commonly done with a garden spade, with which the ground is generally
cut in the form of, as nearly as we can here describe, "If, the plant-
being inserted in the intersection of the cuts while the turf is raised
by the spade. The forester then withdraws the spade, presses down the
turf with his foot, and leaves the young fir to take care of itself.
Frequently as many as 1000 acres have been planted in one year on the
Seafield estate by this simple and rapid method. It is remarkable that
plants which have been reared in excellent soil and carefully tended for
three or four years, should take so kindly to the bleak and impoverished
moorland; but the tens of thousands of acres of flourishing pines in
Speyside proclaim that this is the valuable nature of the tree. While
the Seafield estates have become famous as the scene of the greatest
planting experiment on record, and attract practical men and forestry
students from all quarters of the globe, it must not be considered that
the tree propagation is entirely confined to artificial means. Here, as
at Lovat, the forests are perpetuated on a considerable scale by natural
sowing; and with the greatest success. Writing on this subject in 1881,
a French Professor says:—“It is easy in Scotland to perpetuate a forest
by natural means, and of this a practical proof was given us in two
forests which we visited, one near Grantown, and the other at Beauly. In
these the resulte obtained, under the skilful and intelligent direction
of the gentlemen who manage these forests, form a striking example of
what may be done in the way of reproducing forests by natural means.”
Arboriculturists have nothing but praise to bestow upon the management
of Inverness woods; and it is matter for prideful gratification to think
that Inverness-shire is not only the greatest tree bearing county in
Britain, but is also the home of the best and most scientific system of
forestry. Many years must still elapse, however, before the Strathspey
forests attain their period of greatest interest to the arboricultural
student.
THE LOVAT ESTATE—NATURAL
REPRODUCTION — TREE DISEASES— FIRST LARCHES IN THE HIGHLANDS.
The valley which has as
its centrepiece the massive pile of Beaufort Castle derives much of its
beauty from the dense woods which clothe its slopes, and dispute for
supremacy with the green fields of the plain. There is no doubt that
here, as in other Highland glens, the Scotch pine has found a natural
home from early times, but the statement may be hazarded without
grievous risk that the valley never possessed more silvan charm than it
does at the present day. During the past century the area under timber
on the Lovat estate has been greatly augmented by planting, while the
natural pine woods have been rendered more productive and valuable by
the scientific practice of regeneration by natural sowing, a system
carried out in the great forests of Europe, India, and the Colonies. For
this reason the Beaufort woods possess a unique interest to the student
of forestry. There are a few fine old beech, oak, and pines in the
neighbourhood of the Castle, which indicate that in times before
Culloden the chiefs of Clan Fraser found opportunities, amid warlike
pursuits, to beautify their property with trees, but the first extensive
plantings carried out were made while the estate was under the
management of a Government Commissioner. When a chief of the clan again
took possession of the ancestral acres, the example thus shown bore
excellent fruit. The Right Hon. Thomas Alexander Fraser, in whose person
the title of Baron was again revived, became one of the most
enthusiastic and intelligent arboriculturists the north has seen. During
his long tenure of the estate, 10,000 acres were planted with Scotch
pine and larch, and the system of natural regeneration was introduced in
the old woods, and practised with a success which is still the
admiration of scientific foresters. For about a quarter of a century the
woods have been managed by Mr D. Dewar, and under his practical skill
they have attained a high degree of perfection. As to the relative
merits of planting versus natural afforestation, those who advise
planting say that a more uniform crop of plants is obtained, whereas by
allowing the trees to sow their own seed the element of uncertain
cropping has to be considered. It is possible that the natural crop may
not be satisfactory for a year or two, and time is thereby lost; but at
Beaufort the disadvantages of natural sowing are not apparent, the
plants being as a rule well distributed and regular, while the
uniformity in the ages of the trees is remarkable.
The most interesting and
instructive illustration of the natural reproduction of the pine is
found in Balblair Wood, some sixty or eighty acres of which have been
regenerated. This wood stands in the vicinity of picturesque Kilmorack.
Lord Lovat began the work of regeneration here nearly half a century
ago, and the process was carried on systematically for over twenty
years. The result is now seen in a full crop of healthy, well-developed
trees of different ages, the youngest having about 28 years’ growth.
Owing to the light, gravelly character of the soil, the rate of growth
has not been so rapid as on other portions of the estate where the
ground is richer. The height of the trees is, however, satisfactory, and
in course of time the wood will possess all the value that attaches to
slow-grown fir. In accordance with a well-established rule in forestry,
the regenerating process was begun at the east end of the ground, so as
to work against the prevailing winds, which in this part of the country
are westerly in the months of June an^ July, when the fir sheds its
seed. Fir seed being of the “winged” variety, as the cones open under
the rays of the sun, it is blown away and spread over the ground
prepared for its reception. No one who inspects this wood can entertain
a doubt as to the efficacy of natural reproduction. The seedlings came
up in thousands, covering the ground like a crop of grass, and in the
more advanced sections the management has been so excellent that better
results could scarcely have been obtained by artificial planting. Sir
Dictrich Brandis, late inspector-general of forests in India, and who
may be said to have created the Indian forest department, made an
inspection of the Lovat woods 25 years ago, and was particularly
interested in the Balblair one, which he declared to be the best example
of natural reproduction he had seen in this country.
It has been observed that
in all the natural pine forests in the Highlands, as for instance in
Glengarry, Glen-Urquhart, Achnacarry, Glen-Moriston, Strathglass, and
other valleys branching off from the Great Glen, the Scotch fir is
invariably found on the north or shady side of the hills, while on the
opposite side oak, birch, and other trees find a congenial situation.
This shews that the pine germinates best in shaded, moist ground. Shaw,
in his History of Moray, notes with characteristic shrewdness, a habit
of the Scotch fir, which Mr Dewar has verified on the Lovat estate. He
cays :—“ Here I cannot but observe, as peculiar to. fir woods, that they
grew and spread always to the east, or between the north and the
south-east, never to the west or the south-west. The cause of this
seemed to be that in the months of July and August the great heat opens
the fir apples then ripe, and the winds of that season blowing from
south west to west south-west, drives the seed out of the open husks to
the east and neighbouring 'earths.”
With regard to the larch,
some interesting experiments have been made on the estate to test the
suitability of the timber for house carpentry. There is a prejudice
against using larch timber for constructive purposes, on account of its
tendency to warp, and its utility is very much confined to railway
sleepers and other heavy planking ; but the late Lord Lovat, desirous of
making use •of some of his fine trees, introduced the wood with
considerable success into the new castle. Care was taken to steep the
trees in the mill pond for three months, and when thus seasoned the
adaptability of the wood for open roofing and such work appears
satisfactory, while its appearance is ornamental. The larch appears to
thrive exceptionally well at Beaufort. At the forestry exhibition, held
in Edinburgh, a section of a tree which had been cut down for the new
castle was shown and attracted attention as An instance of remaikable
tree growth. Though only 64 years of age, the tree contained 112 cubic
feet of timber, some of the Annual increments being quite half an inch
deep. It was used for one of the main beams in the grand hall of the
castle. Another interesting fact is that this tree was selected, among
others, from a wood planted by the present Lord Lovat’s grandfather, who
died in 1875, so that it must have contained not less than between 80
and 90 cubic feet of timber during the lifetime of the Baron. Even in
the case of such a fast timber producing tree as the larch, that
circumstance is rare.
One of the finest pine
woods on the estate is that of Boblainie, which covers the incline in
the back-ground of the valley to the extent of over 2000 acres. The
oldest portion of this forest was. planted while the estate was in the
hands of Government. Many of the original trees still survive, and are
easily distinguished by their massive trunks, but the majority have
succumbed to the woodman’s axe to make room for a younger generation.
The naturally sown trees are of various ages, and all have obtained
growth enough to make the wood safe as a resort for deer. Sporting
considerations have produced many change in Highland estate management,
and at Beaufort they have completely arrested the further increase of
the forests either by planting or natural reproduction. The moment deer
get access to a wood the seeding trees have not the remotest chance of
escape, their tender shoots, forming a dainty morsel eagerly sought
after during the winter months. It thus appears that the excellent
system of forestry which has distinguished the Lovat estate for the last
half century has, for economic reasons, lost its continuity—a
contingency which will always be liable to arise so long as the woods
and forests in the country are private property.
Mr Dewar maintains that
cattle are an excellent medium for preparing a seed bed, as they keep
down the heather and grass, and assist in breaking up the ground and
making it suitable for the reception of the seed, which is also trampled
in, and thus germinates rapidly. The larch belt we inspected strongly
corroborates this opinion; and the fact that a piece of ground near by,
to which the cows had no access, bears little or no larch at all,
although similarly exposed to the fall of seed, gives it further weight.
With sheep it is otherwise. The extension of many of the natural forests
which beautified the hillsides ceased with the introduction of
sheep-farming, as this otherwise useful animal devours the young pine
roots with avidity. In Fanellan wood, the greater portion of which was
formed by the present laird’s grandfather some eighty years ago, there
are some grand fir about a hundred years old. On an average these fir
trees, it is estimated, contain from sixty to eighty cubic feet of
timber. Selecting a few at random, we found that a few feet from the
ground they girthed from seven to ten feet.
A characteristic of the
Lovat woods is the entire absence of disease among both larch and fir.
On the occasion of Professor Schlich’s inspection the other year of the
Little Wood, which consists mostly of larch, the remarkably healthy
state of the trees was commented upon, and contrasted with the
deplorably diseased condition of some larch plantations in another
Highland county. Some discussion took place on that occasion regarding
the origin of the larch disease, known as the canker, or blister, which
is worth noting, seeing there is a considerable diversity of opinion on
the subject amongst foresters. Mr Macgregor, who has an extensive
experience of the disease in the Athole forests, where it has done very
great damage, attributes blister to the insect coccus larices, which
occasionally appears in young plantations, and affects the trees very
injuriously. Professor Schlich, again, believes that it is caused by the
spores of a minute fungus establishing itself in the tissues of the
trees where a branch has been broken or blown off, or any injury
otherwise done to the plant. On the other hand, Mr Dewar maintains that
the coccos is a result and not a cause of the disease. Severe frosts,
planting in situations unfavourable to the healthy development of the
tree, or anything else that affects its constitution or vitality, may,
he thinks, be the primary cause of the canker, just as unhealthy animals
were more subject to the ailments of their species, such as vermin, than
those in robust health. This seems a very sensible solution of the
problem, and harmonises with human experience, that insects flourish on
a subject which is already diseased.
Those interested in
forestry were much concerned, some time ago, by the appearance of a kind
of caterpillar which attacked the young shoots of the Scotch fir so
voraciously that the trees were in a short time entirely denuded of
their leaves. About twenty years ago the insect attacked fifteen acres
of fir on the Lovat estate at Beaufort. Strangely enough the insect
confined its feeding operations to the old leaves, so that although the
development of the trofes was retarded, they ultimately recovered, and
no real damage was sustained. Had the current shoots been attacked, the
trees would of course have been doomed. The insect disappeared as
suddenly and mysteriously as it had arrived, and has not been seen again
till the other summer, when it made a raid in a young plantation of some
ten years’ growth in the neighbourhood of Fort-Augustus, and with much
the same results. It is the larvse of the Sophyrus pint, or pine saw
fly, and is common to the pine woods in the north of Europe, but has
hitherto been little known in this country. The summer of some twenty
years ago was similar to the one just experienced, so that its
appearance seems to depend upon drought and heat.
The finest larch tree on
the property, and perhaps the best example of the species in the north
of Scotland, stands by the side of the Bruiach Bum. It girths fully 12
feet at sixty inches from the ground, carrying its circumference well
up, and has a grand stem about 100 feet high, while the spread of its
branches is graceful. Besides its stately proportions this tree is
noteworthy; it has in fact a history which carries us back to the
introduction of the larch into Scotland. It was one of the Belladrum
lot, which, as all interested in the larch will have read, were obtained
surreptitiously in Athole about the year 1738, when the “planting Duke”
of that Ilk began the extensive larch plantations for which the Athole
estates are famous. The story related in Perthshire regarding the
Belladrum trees differs entirely from the version that has been handed
down in the Lovat family. Hunter states, in his “ Woods, forests, and
estates of Perthshire,” that the then proprietor of Belladrum, who
possessed keen arboricultural tastes, visited the Duke of Athole at
Dunkeld House when the planting of the larch was going on, and that, by
the potent means of a dram, he induced the gardener to part with a
bundle of the plants, which he carried North in quiet triumph. The other
tradition is that the factor on the Lovat property chanced to be
crossing one of the ferries on the Tay, there being no bridges at that
period, while a quantity of larch plants were in course of transit to
the Athole plantations, and naturally displayed much interest in the new
tree. Observing his master’s curiosity, and surmising that he would like
to possess a few plants, his servant managed to appropriate a bundle,
and conceal it in the conveyance, while the Athole men were being
treated to a dram in the inn. He did not disclose what he had done till
home was reached, and the enormous difficulty of travelling in those
days precluded all idea of restoring the trees to their ducal owner.
Such, at any rate, is the excuse given. The trees were planted out in
Belladrum, where the factor resided, and also on the Bruiach Bum. Those
trees are therefore contemporary with some of the oldest larches on the
Athole property, and may be termed the parent larches of the North
Highlands.
THE LOCHIEL ESTATE—NEW
PLANTATIONS—ACHNACARRT : THE BEECH WALK—REMARKABLE PLANE AND OTHER
TREES—ANCIENT OAKS— BEST PINE FOREST IN SCOTLAND.
When the forfeited
estates reverted to Lochiel, over a hundred years ago, it was reported
that there were 10,000 acres of natural wood on the property, or a
fourteenth part of its whole extent, notwithstanding that while the
estates were in the hands of the Crown their management was entrusted to
a commissioner, named Butter, whose policy seems to have been highly
unpopular in Lochaber, and not conducive to its tree growing interests.
A Gaelic song, composed about the time the estates were restored to the
family, laments that the pine wood, one of the glories of the estate,
had, under his management, become a tangled desert. There is no doubt a
magnificent quantity of pine and other timber had been cut down by the
commissioner, for what purpose is not precisely known. The song alluded
to contains the following verse. It bewails the disappearance of the
pine wood and the scattering of the clan, but hopes that the old order
of things, at least as regards the Cameron people, will be resumed when
the long-lost chief returns to his paternal home:—
“Dh’ fhalbh do Ghuiseach
na duslach fhasaich,
’S tha do dhaoin’ air sgaoil’s gach aite,
Aig a Bhutrach ga ’n cuir o aiteach:
Nuair thig thu dhachaigh gu ’n cuir thu aird orr.”
During the century which
has elapsed since Lochiel’s advent, a considerable amount of mature
timber has also been cut down, but the planting accomplished will, in a
great measure, counterbalance this loss. The hillsides, from the march
with Invergarry to Clunes, grow some fine hazel and other trees. From
Clunes, along Loch Arkaig by the public road, to a distance of nearly
thirteen miles, birch, ash, alder, and oak give river and loch a deep
silvan fringe, with the exception of a short interval between Auchnasoul
and Ardachie. On the south side of the loch, from the shores of Loch
Lochy to the tops of Glen Meallie and Loch Arkaig, a stretch of about
sixteen miles, there are deep belts of pine and other trees. Again, on
the north side of Loch Eil, from the farm of Annat, the wood—principally
oak, birch, and alder, with a few Scots fir and spruce—extends for
upwards of ten miles, each of the numerous glens having a considerable
quantity of timber lining their sides. Turning towards the march at
Ballachulish, we find excellent ash, oak, birch, and older growing
nearly all the way to Fort-William.
Achnacarry Castle is
situate close by the outlet of Loch Arkaig, in a valley which, for
picturesque beauty, is not easily matched in the Highlands. The front
Windows command a glimpse of Loch Lochy and a panorama of mountains
beyond; north and south it is hemmed in by densely-wooded hills and
pine-grown ridges; and westwards, Loch Arkaig extends in a silvery
stretch of fifteen miles, environed by forest and mountain. Within a
hundred yards of the building, the Arkaig, fresh from the loch, and its
torrent swollen by the flow of the Kaig, rushes impetuously on its short
career to Loch Lochy. In the immediate vicinity of the Castle there is a
variety of old and remarkable trees, which must have been planted some
time before the destruction of the ancestral residence in 1846. The
story of the beech walk is beautifully told in Lady Middleton’s “ Ballad
of the Beeches,” which we take the liberty of quoting :—
Oh! I have stood by the
river side
When the spate came rolling down ;
And marked the rush of the rolling tide,
In volume frothed and brown.
Oh! I have wandered beneath the shade
Of the stately avenue,—
Ere the summer green begins to fade
To its gold autumnal hue.
And mingling with the waters’ roar,
And sough of wind-stirred leaves,
A waft of old ancestral lore
My listless sense receives.
*****
Commands the Chief: My
woodmen all
Attend me in the vale,
And bring me saplings straight and tall
To brave the wintry gale.
“I would erect upon the plain
A stately avenue:
Shall pass each Cameron chief and train
In after-time there-through.
“To lead in sport of wood or field,
To meet his clan for war;
Or home be borne upon his shield
With coronach before!”
They marked the standing for the trees
On spots apart and wide,
That each might vaunt him to the breeze
In isolated pride.
But lo! arose a mighty cry
Across the lovely land—
“Our rightful king doth straightly hie
To claim each loyal brand
“From foreign shores to seek his own:
Now up and follow me,
For never was a Cameron known
Could fail in loyalty I”
So spake Lochiel in high command—
“Leave all, for ill or weal!
The king may claim each heart and hand
That vassal to Lochiel.
“Then dig a trench upon the bank
Where Arkaig rolls along,
And set my beechen babes in rank,
To ligten to her song.
“And set them close to keep them warm
All through the lengthy days,
Till back I come, in fitting form,
Mine avenue to raise!”
They dug a trench upon the bank
Where Arkaig rolls along,
And set the saplings all in rank
To listen to her song.
But o’er them time and seasons passed,
And by them sang the stream;
Nor might that chief return at last
His purpose to redeem:
For drear the coronach did soundI
O’er all the west countree,
And a nobler plant was laid in ground
Than a sapling beechen tree.
Ochone it is ! for the great and brave,
For the hapless Stuart race,
For the cause such followers might not save,
And the rule they deemed disgrace.
Surely no grander monument,
Can rise, Lochiel, to thee,
Than the beechen bower of branches-bent
In homage proud and free?
For closely grew the trees in rank,
As close as they could grow,
Within their trench upon the bank
Beside the river’s flow.
Their clasping boughs in clanship twine,
Like souls of the ’parted brave,
That ever whisper in words divine
Through the music of wind and wave.
Fair bides the light on a golden throne
Of their autumn leaves at even;
And that golden warrior soul is gone
To shine with the leal in heaven.
The “beechen babes” form
a belt ten yards broad, and -extending along the river side for nearly
400 yards. There are three breaks in the line, in two of which the
original trees probably failed to grow. Their places were supplied with
other beech saplings, which are growing well, but are considerably less
in height and girth. While six of the largest of the original •“babes”
girth respectively 9 ft., 8 ft. 6 in., 8 ft., 7 ft. 10 in., 7 ft. 6 in.,
and 7 ft. 4 in., the younger trees measure from 2 ft. 6 in. to 4 ft. 3
in. The third gap was caused by seven splendid trees coming to grief
during the memorable gale which •caused the Tay Bridge calamity. The
trees have attained a height of about 70 feet, and they give shelter to
a beautiful avenue running along Arkaig’s banks. In summer the foliage
is so dense that protection is afforded from the heaviest rain shower. 1
We scarcely think there is another instance of so much valuable timber
being produced on so small an extent of ground. The stems of the trees,
in consequence of the closeness with which they grow, are tall and bare
to an unusual height, and they swing to the gale with an ease which
ensures their existence as vigorous trees for many years. When
Cumberland’s soldiers visited Achnacarry, the beeches would be too
insignificant to attract their notice, but it is said they gratified
their destructiveness by blowing to pieces with powder many of the large
trees about the place. We trust that the Beech Walk may long escape
every destructive influence—flourishing to preserve the memory of a
chivalrous and a good man.
The avenue itself stands
in the Park in front of the Castle, to which it has never been used as
an approach. Nearest the house the beeches were cut down some years ago
in order to open up the view, but the avenue still contains a
considerable number of magnificent trees. They grow in double rows, and
their massive stems and spreading branches form a conspicuous ornament
in the surroundings of the Castle. Having reached their full growth,
which the fag as sylvatica attains in about 158 years, several of the
trees have been damaged by the gales which sweep down the valley of the
Arkaig. One of the beeches measures 17 feet in circumferenee at five
feet from the ground, but it has a deformed appearance in consequence of
the loss of one of its principal branches. The best specimen for girth
and spread of branches stands at the eastern extremity of the north row.
Near the roots it girths 18 ft. 6 in., and three feet up it is 14 feet.
The trunk, which is not more than 5 feet in length, splits itself into
eight or nine great limbs, which ramify in the most wonderful way. In
height the tree stands about forty feet, and the spread of its branches
covers a radius of 230 feet. Close by this fine beech there is a clump
of three beeches growing close to each other as if the order of their
planting had been disturbed. The largest of the three measures 13 feet,
but a big branch has been wrenched off by the wind, and the trunk is
split almost to the roots.
On the south side of the
castle there are several fine avenues of the classical plane tree. The
Lochiel of the ’45, by whom these trees must have been planted, appears
to have had a partiality for this tree, in the embowering shade of which
Plato delighted to discourse to his pupils, and which was much
associated with the intellect of Athens. One of the avenues forms the
approach to the castle. The trees in the avenue measure 6, 7, and 8 feet
in circumference, and exhibit all the gracefulness of stem and leafy
canopy for which the plane tree is noted. A short avenue of this tree,
standing at right angles to the castle approach, is distinguished by the
name of the Cumberland planes. The story goes that the Duke of
Cumberland’s soldiers, at the burning of the old castle in 1746, hung
their cooking utensils on these trees. Their appearance favours the
tradition. Some of the trees are very distinctly marked by a deep hollow
strip, to a height of between three and four feet, as if the parts had
been injured by fire. Notwithstanding the injury done these planes when
young, they have grown into immense trees of beautiful shape. They
measure- from 7 to 10 feet in circumference, the average girth being
nearly 9 feet. In the vicinity of this avenue there are a few planes of
even bigger growth, the largest measuring 12 feet in circumference.
These specimens of the plane tree probably rank among the best to be
found in Scotland.
On the bank of the Arkaig,
close to the site of the old castle —the only trace of which is a small
piece of blackened ivy-grown wall—there still stands a portion of what
formerly was a fishing tower. Tradition has it that there was a cruive
at this part of the river, and when the salmon got in, it, by some
ingenious mechanical contrivance, the secret of which has evidently been
lost, caused a bell to ring in the tower, by which the attendant was
summoned to secure the fish. The arch and walls of the tower are still
there, but the upper and principal portion of the building and the roof
are gone. In the centre of what was the tower there grows a splendid ash
tree. It must have been self-sown. In the memory of an old man not long
dead, its dimensions were those of an ordinary walking stick, and its
circumference is now 8 ft. 9 in. at 3 ft. from the ground. It has a
clear bole of about 30 ft., beautifully proportioned, and a bark of the
finest texture we ever remember seeing on an ash tree. Its favourable
situation—close by a running stream, and under the shelter of the old
tower—has favoured its rapid and graceful development.
Pursuing the walk along
the bank of the river, we enter a chestnut grove, in which there are a
group of Spanish chestnuts, and a horse chestnut known by the name of “
the hanging tree.” The latter is an inferior specimen of the common
species, and accords in appearance and shape with the melancholy purpose
to which it is said to have been devoted, viz., for hanging caterans and
others in the olden time. From the root there springs four dejected
stems, one of which stretches itself in bow shape to a length of about
40 feet, and with sufficient height to serve the mournful purpose of a
gibbet. It is now propped up. Three of the Spanish chestnuts, at 3 ft.
from the ground, measure 12 ft. 4 in., 9 ft., and 8 ft. 4 in.
respectively. Being thriving trees, they will attain a much greater
thickness, if their close relationship is not against their development.
The largest chestnut we have heard of in Scotland stands on the lawn at
Castle Leod, Strath-peffer. At the height of 3 ft. it girths over 20 ft.
in circumference ; but Gregor describes a Spanish chestnut on the
property of Lord Ducie, in Gloucestershire, which some years ago
measured 45 ft. in girth.
Among the other
noteworthy trees near the Castle is a splendid larch about 100 feet in
height, and measuring at follows—at the base, 13 ft. 8 in.; 3 ft. up, 9
ft. In the park, not *far from the beech walk, there is a birch of
remarkable dimensions—perhaps the largest tree of the birch kind in
Scotland. The stem is 6 ft. high, and at the centre ic has a
circumference of 13 ft., and still higher of 14 ft. 6 in. Three enormous
branches spring from the trunk, one measuring 7 ft., and another 6 ft.
in girth. It is a veritable “ Silvan Queen,” with charming display of
branch ; and it does not seem at all out of place in the policies near
the chaste plane tree, though arborists have sentimentally relegated it
to the rugged scenes of nature.
In the considerable
portions of ancient pine and oak forests surviving in the neighbourhood
of Achnacarry, there are a number of extremely old oak trees. They are
to be discovered here and there—time-whittled and storm-shattered
remnants of their former selves—interesting memorials of the departed
glory of the ancient forest that has been al! wede away. The freshest of
the three we visited stands within a few hundred yards of the public
road as it approaches the policies of the Castle, in the part of the old
forest occupying the shoulder of the hill overlooking Loch Lochy. Before
it lost its top, which appears to have succumbed to the recurring gale a
considerable time ago, it must have been a magnificent tree. The trunk
as thus divested stands about 30 feet high, and from its upper part
spring two main limbs, each of which at their junction with the parent
stem girth 6 feet or more. These branches have still a thriving
appearance, and evidence an amount of vitality in the tree which the
aged trunk somewhat belies.
Life still lingers in
thee, and puts forth
Proof not contemptible of what she can.
The circumference of the
tree at 3 feet from the ground is 21 ft., and at 6 ft. it measures 23
ft., which is nearly its thickest part. Around there is some fine oak
and fir timber, but, in comparison with this antiquity, they are of
tender growth. The two other venerable trees, or rather relics, for they
are much decayed, are found in the old wood of Craigunish, on the north
side of Loch Arkaig, and within a short distance of the Castle. They are
the remains of what, in some remote time, were evidently stately trees.
A series of large, knotty growths disfigure the almost bare trunks* the
circumference of which is greater at 5 feet high than immediately above
the roots. There is no visible spreading basis of roots, a thick, boggy
accumulation of centuries concealing every vestige of the foundations.
The largest of the stumps measures 24 feet round. Internally the tree is
rotten, but the rind bptokens the presence of lingering life by sending
out a few branches and offshoots. The remarkable thing about these
trunks is, that young birch and oak trees spring from their lifeless
hearts. In the one we have more particularly described, a thriving birch
tree of at least 18 inches in circumference shoots healthily from the
top of the decayed trunk, and appears at a first glimpse to have become
identified with the upper part of the old tree. But a rift in the side
of the trunk enables the birch to be traced as a distinct tree until it
buries itself in the roots of the oak. The young oak is of a smaller
growth than the birch, and like the other, it derives its whole
sustenance from the roots of the old trunk. These curiosities are
frequently to be met with in old forests.
An interesting question
is the probable age of these ancient relics of former silvan grandeur.
We are disposed to give them an antiquity of about a thousand years. Nor
do we think this an exaggeration; in fact, on consideration, it is more
likely to be under the mark. Some of the most remarkable oaks in
England— and there the tree finds a far more congenial home than in
these northern latitudes—which girth but a few feet more, are reported
to be a thousand years old. The king oak at Windsor forest is said to
have been a favourite tree of William the Conqueror; it measures 26 feet
in circumference at three feet from the ground (our best specimen girths
23 feet at six feet above the ground), and has stood upwards of 1000
years. The “Capon Tree,” one of the most celebrated oaks in Scotland,
and growing in a sheltered valley close to the old abbey of Jedburgh, in
Roxburghshire, girths 26 feet, and is said to have been a large tree and
a favourite one with the monks of the abbey in the thirteenth century.
It would seem a moderate computation, therefore, to credit the
Achnacarry oaks with an existence of ten centuries. Their decayed
condition must also be taken into account; and the fact that
To time
Was left the task to whittle them away.
The old forest of
Glenmeallie proper covers the southern slope of the glen for a distance
of about four miles, but, in reality, the forest begins at Loch-Lochy,
and is, therefore, fully six miles long. In the glen it ascends the
mountain sides to an altitude of close upon 1000 feet, and presents to
the eye a wide and dense expanse of dark green that contrasted dismally,
on the occasion of our visit, with the snow-clad mountains towering
above.
“This is the primaeval
forest; the murmuring pines and the hemlocks,
Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight,
Stand like Druids of old, with voices sad and prophetic;
Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest in their bosoms.”
Speaking of the pines,
Gregor says:—“It is an alpine tree, preferring the elevated situation, a
northern exposure, and a cool climate.” Glenmeallie forest possesses all
these requisites to a degree, and the fine development of the trees, as
well as the excellent quality of the timber, attest that the situation
accords perfectly with the nature of the pine. The wood of the
Glenmeallie pine is beautifully coloured, finely grained, and extremely
durable. Touching the latter quality, we noticed some pine wood
furnishings in one of the offices at Achnacarry, which are as fresh
to-day as when newly constructed forty years ago. We scarcely think
there is another pine forest in Scotland to rival Glenmeallie in the
size and perfection of its timber. It contains some giant trees, which
could only, one suspects, be equalled by such trees as grew in the
famous forest of Glenmore. The latter forest, in the beginning of the
present century, furnished timber to build forty-seven sail of ships, of
upwards of 19,000 tons burthen. A deal cut from the centre of the
largest tree measured 5 feet 5 inches broad, and the layers of wood from
its centre to each side indicated an age of 235 years. The girth of this
tree, which was named “The Lady of the Woods,” would be about 19 feet.
There are trees of equal magnitude in Glenmeallie forest. We had only
time to take a run through the Invemieallie end of the forest on the
occasion of our visit—a tempestuous day—and within a radius of
half-a-mile we came across trees of striking grandeur. The most notable,
principally on account of its magnificent ramifications, is named “Miss
Cameron’s tree,” or more poetically, “The Queen of the Old Forest.” It
appropriately stands amidst the most rugged beauty of the primaeval
forest, guarded by the massive and umbrageous proportions of its
juniors. The girth of this pine, at its narrowest part, 3 feet from the
swell of the roots, is 18 feet. It bifurcates into seven enormous limbs.
About the point where those spring from the parent stem the
circumference is fully 24 feet. Four of the limbs are of themselves, as
regards girth, very large trees. The thickest tapes 13 feet; the next,
12 feet; a third, 10 feet 6 inches; and the fourth was not within reach,
but its girth cannot be less than 12 feet. Taken together, those limbs
give a total girth of 47 feet 6 inches, without including the other
three branches, which are by no means weaklings. The spread nf the
branches or the height of the tree could not be calculated with anything
like certainty; its magnitude in these respects can, however, be
imagined from the figures given.
An extensive and valuable
wood, called Gusach, or the Pinery, was cut down in the early part of
this century by the grandfather of the present Lochiel, to whom the
estates were restored in 1784. A few hoary old giants still remain to
mark the site of this forest. The largest representative has a clean
trunk of 12 ft. 6 in., and at mid distance it girths 22 ft. 8 in., and
has thus a diameter of 7 ft. 8 in. If felled and cut up, this Gusach
giant would yield a centre plank of at least 10 by 7, which excels the
Glenmore tree considerably.
An ash tree in the
churchyard of Kilmallie, the Parish Church of the Lochiel family, burnt
down during the troubles in 1746, was long considered as the largest and
most remarkable tree in Scotland. Its remains were measured in 1764, and
at the ground its circumference was no less than 58 feet—(“ Walker’s
Essays,” page 17). “This tree stood on a deep rich soil, only about 30
feet above the level of the sea, in Lochiel, with a small rivulet
running within a few paces of it.” These particulars are taken from
Loudon’s “Aboretum Fruticetum,” page 226, and it requires such authority
to bring anyone in the present day to believe that there existed such a
monarch of the woods. But Loudon’s mentioning it proves clearly that he
believed in its existence. The destruction was, it need scarcely be
said, the work of Cumberland’s soldiers, who committed many acts of
barbarity, worse even than this piece of vandalism. There is not a trace
of this majestic tree now to be discovered in the churchyard of
Kilmallie or its neighbourhood, nor are we aware of the remains of any
other trees on the Lochiel estate fit to stand beside it; but we may
mention an interesting fragment of an oak tree standing on the bank of
the river Luy, on the farm of Strone, about 1 \ miles above the public
road. It is merely the outer shell of one side of it that remains. It
stands 8 or 9 feet in height, and every year clothes a considerable
number of short shoots in thick and fresh foliage, but these shoots do
not seem to lengthen or shorten. For many years the •old tree has held
its own, without gain or loss. Its circumference is said by competent
authority to have been upwards of 24 feet when in its prime.
FIRST NURSERY AT
INVERNESS—LAND AGITATION AND TREE PLANTING —THE PRESENT AND THE FUTURE.
This sketch would not be
complete without a reference to the tree-rearing industry which has been
carried on at Inverness for the last half century, whereby the
facilities for afforestation in the Highlands have been much increased.
The first nursery established in the north for the systematic production
of forest trees was at Muirtown, and was carried on by two brothers of
the name of Fraser. This was about 70 years ago. They were succeeded by
the Dicksons (James and George), who took a lease of suitable ground at
Millburn, and carried on a large business successfully for a
considerable period. Over half a century ago, at the time when the
demand for forest trees was just beginning to make itself felt in the
north, Mr Charles Lawson, late Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and nursery
and seedsman to the Highland and Agricultural Society, re-established
the nursery business at Muirtown, where it is still carried on. He was
succeeded by the Messrs. Howden Brothers. Under them, and subsequently
under Messrs Howden & Company, the business was extended, as increased
facilities for the transmission of trees were established. Messrs Howden
& Company now hold a considerable extent of the best land in Sir Kenneth
J. Matheson’s Inverness property, and though added to lately, it is
yearly being found more and more insufficient for the requirements of
the trade. This plant-growing establishment is very well known, not only
in the north, but also throughout the United Kingdom, and an hour or two
may be well spent in it. The grounds are laid off and kept in a style
which would do credit to any gentleman’s garden. While large spaces are
devoted to the successful cultivation of hardwood and fruit trees,
roses, and hardy flowering plants, the bulk of the ground is necessarily
occupied by endless thousands of young trees of all ages for forest
planting. To give some idea of the numbers of these produced annually,
it is computed that of Scotch fir and larch alone, one and two years old
seedlings, there are not less that 8,000,000 to 10,000,000. This does
not include about 3,000,000 more, which have been transplanted, from one
to three years, and are now ready to be sent out. These figures apply
only to Scotch fir and larch ; other coniferous trees, which are not
planted nearly so extensively, may be numbered by the hundred
thousand—such as spruce, silver fir, Austrian, Corsican, and mountain
pines. The annual output of forest trees from these nurseries may safely
be estimated at close on 5,000,000. The half of this number is to be
planted out permanently. Generally speaking, in hill ground planting,
about 3500 plants are put into one acre. This represents, then, a total
of about 700 acres planted every year with trees grown by this firm. The
bulk of the plants, as may be expected, is dispersed in the Northern and
Western Counties, but a goodly number find their way farther south, and
even into England and Ireland
The forming of new
plantations in the North within the last decade has not increased; has
not, in fact, reached the average* The recent crofter agitation, and the
consequent insecurity which landholders felt, effectually prevented the
expenditure of any moneys in the way of estate improvement. This was the
chief reason why so little was done. Trade of all description was
paralysed, and investments which did not promise security and au
immediate return were simply not within an area of consideration..
During the five years or so while this state of things lasted,
tree-growing was nearly at a standstill. Nurserymen grew tired of
cultivating young forest trees, which year after year had to be burned
to make room for a younger stock. What were sold were disposed of at
miserable prices. The purchaser could make his own price, and the grower
was only too glad to get rid of his stock at anything it would fetch.
One-year-old fir trees realised, in some cases, 8d; two years old, Is to
Is 3d per 1000; trans planted trees, one and tw*o years, 2s and 3s 6d
per 1000 were common prices. Larch w ere also exceedingly cheap, though
they did not reach the starvation prices of fir. Within the last year or
two, however, with a geneially reviving trade, and a better feeling of
security in land, the prices of trees have gone up yery considerably,
and what nurserymen were glad to sell ac 3s 6d five years ago, could
last season much more easily be sold at 12s 6*1. The demand, mainly
owing to the long severe winter, was not sufficient of itself to account
for this abnormal rise in price—the demand for trees was comparatively
good, but the scarcity of the article itself was the main cause. Growers
for some years had studied how to keep down their stocks, and many of
them had succeeded so well that when better times came they found
themselves almost without the article in demand. The scarcity of Scotch
fir seed for a season or two has had an effect in putting up the prices
of this tree. In a year or two, when prices have become normal, the
probable value of Scotch fir, 2 years’ seedlings, 1 year transplanted,
will be from 6s to 10s per 1000. Larch being a very variable crop,
subject as it is to frost blights in spring and early summer, which
frequently destroys a whole crop in a single night, will always be
dearer than fir, and their prices oven more fluctuating—15s to 18s per
1000 for the same age is about their real value. The late Mr John Grigor,
Forres, mentions in his work on Arboriculture that on one occasion he
supplied the trees, consisting of Scotch fir and larch half and half,
and planted them out in moor ground, at the total cost per acre of
something like 10s. Even with a plentiful crop of trees, and a desire to
get rid of them at any price; even with cheap labour and a subject easy
to plant; even with very young trees, which, besides being cheaper, are
also much more easy to plant, 10s per acre is probably the lowest price
at which such work was ever done, or ever will be done. A rough estimate
of the cost per acre for plants and planting now, with transplanted
trees, is from 40s to 50s per acre. Of course, if the area to be planted
is a large one, the cost will be proportionally less. As we have stated,
for some five or six years no appreciable increase has been made to the
acreage of plantations in the North, or indeed anywhere in the kingdom.
Within the last year or two plantations of considerable magnitude have
been formed, chiefly at Inchbae and Gairloch in Ross-shire, and at Farr,
Dunmaglass, and Inverlochy, in Inverness-shire. No doubt when railways
and roads have been constructed throughout the Highlands, a much greater
impetus will be given to this great and important question, not only to
the landlord and to the labourer, but also to the nation itself, of
planting up with such a remunerative and even weather-improving crop the
boundless areas of waste lands—practically worthless in their present
state—so common particularly in the Highlands of Scotland.
But there will always be
two important retarding causes at work—sheep farming and sporting. In
the beginning of the century the institution of sheep rearing on a large
scale had a distinct effect upon the Highland forests. The area under
wood ceased its natural expansion, the young seedlings being all eaten
up, while the herbage got so rough that there was not a suitable bed for
the seed to fall in. On the other hand, black cattle, which formerly
occupied the hills and valleys in large numbers, were favourable to the
production of forests, as they kept the herbage down and trampled the
seed into the ground, the result being that wherever they fed in the
proximity of a wood a luxuriant crop of trees invariably made its
appearance. It may be mentioned that the first sheep farm in the north
was established at Corrimony in 1797, the farmers coming from the south;
the next was Knockfin. As the fashion spread the black cattle
disappeared. Then came another enemy of the woods—deer—within the last
half century. Natural reproduction can never go on in or about the
forests where deer are present, as they destroy the young trees with
avidity; and as long as deer forests pay their owners fabulous rents,
there will be no incentive to any great general expansion of wood
forests in the Highland Counties—the argument that such a policy would
enrich as well as improve the country not being sufficient in itself. On
several large estates where afforestation used to be carried on
systematically, the sporting considerations which now govern everything
have put a complete stop to tree-growing operations, and henceforth, in
such instances, the area under trees must decrease, and not increase. It
is a great pity that the golden rule of striking the medium course is
not adopted in relation to sporting and tree growing. Trees are
undoubtedly a grand investment to make with such land to work upon as is
so plentiful in the Highlands. Thousands and thousands of acres under
sheep are not worth more than a shilling or two shillings per acre.
Under trees, these poor acres would ultimately develop into a mine of
wealth to the owner, while the country would reap an advantage in timber
which it can never do, from the same ground, in mutton. As regards the
outlook for such estates as those of Strathspey, where so many millions
of young trees are slowly approaching maturity, it is at the present
moment nothing less than promising. Even Australia is now drawing upon
the resources of the Baltic pine forests, which, under the excessive
drain, will probably be worked to death within the next half century, if
not much sooner. Railways are increasing, and as they increase the
demand for timber must grow more urgent, and consequently the prices
will improve. As foreign sources fail, the native wood must be drawn
upon for building purposes And as a result of the modern tendency of
things, trees will repay their growers at an earlier period than
hitherto. It is now possible for a proprietor to see trees planted which
will yield him a revenue in his old age. That in former times was
scarcely possible for the planter, and his successor invariably reaped
the financial benefits of his enterprise; but now our pine woods are cut
down for railway purposes long before they reach maturity. Instead of
being allowed to grow for 80 or 100 years, which is the time fir takes
to reach mature dimensions, it is cut down at 40 or 60 years; so that it
may be said that the age of old fir is passing away before the
exigencies of the time, and that such grand forests as those which are
the pride of Lochiel’s property, will be remembered with pride but
rarely seen again. In conclusion, it need only be added that while
Inverness-shire has reason for congratulation upon its arboricultural
advancement, the forests, here as elsewhere, can never attain perfection
until law or the State steps in and insists upon continuity in tree
production. |