I.
The Castle of Tolquhon, one of the
most interesting of the sixteenth century baronial mansions in which
Aberdeenshire is so rich, is situated in the parish of Tarves, in the
eastern part of the ancient Thanage of Formartine. Of this eastern part it
formed the chief messuage, as Fyvie was of the western; and when, the
Prestons, lords of Formartine, failed in the main line, the Thanage was
divided between the husbands of the two co-heiresses----Tolquhon thus
being acquired by Sir John Forbes (a brother of the first Lord Forbes),
who in 1420 had married Marjorie, second daughter of the deceased Sir
Henry Preston.
Whether "Preston’s Tower "—so called
as far back as 1732 which forms
the oldest part of the castle, really dates back to before Tolquhon became
a separate property under the Forbeses, it would be hard to say: but there
is nothing about its architectural features at all inconsistent with a
date about the end of the fourteenth or early in the fifteenth century,
and the traditional name of the tower may therefore perhaps be accepted as
genuine. At Fyvie there is also a Preston Tower. The "tower and fortalice"
of Tolquhon are mentioned in a charter dated 2nd December 1536. At all
events this "auld tour," with whatever barmkin walls and "laich bigging"
may have adjoined it, was deemed sufficient for the needs of its owners
until in 1584—9 (as inscribed on its walls) the castle was greatly
enlarged by William Forbes, the seventh laird. Notices extant about this
gentleman reveal a rather remarkable and attractive personality, cultured
and enlightened beyond the average Aberdeenshire laird of his period, He
founded and endowed a hospital in connection with the parish church of
Tarves, "for four poor men who were to eat and lye here and to have each a
peck of meal and three shillings, a penny and two-sixths of a penny Scots
weekly; also some malt, peats, etc." An inquest held on 15th February 1717
tells us how this charitable bequest was managed at that time. It was
found that "the Beidmen hade ane peck of meal and 40 pennies each in the
week, and hade ane grey gown the one Martinmass and a Coat and Breeches
the other, and that the tenants of Meikle Ythsey were as much bound to
winn and lead peats to them as they were to pay their farmes;" also that
they hade "ane hide for Shoes." In the Bede house was "a big chest with
four locks and lids for their meal . . . and four Beds for the said
Beidmen." "The Beidmen at their entry hade a Chest, Bed, Bedcloaths, pot
and pan, and cloaths once in two years." Fifteen years later it is
recorded that while the fund is managed "very carefully, conform to the
will of the mortifier," the house is "gone to Ruine." In the same year
(1732) we read that "the meal and money they still have; but their house,
which is slated, is neglected and quite waste."
And on 25th June 1735 the minister reports a melancholy
state of affairs. The Beidmen were originally provided with a house "which
used to be kept in good repair, sufficient furniture, and a large kail
yard, and punctual payments of their money: but now the house is ruinous,
the roof off, the furniture gone, and the yard misapplied so far as he
knows; nor are the payments made to proper objects, at least to the
satisfaction of the Kirk Session."
The Bede house, or rather, its
modern successor, still exists to the south-east of the village, and
contains a stone with a much defaced Latin inscription in relief,
commemorating its foundation by William Forbes of Tolquhon.
In addition to founding this
hospital, our laird erected for himself a stately tomb in the south aisle
of the parish church of Tarves. This monument (fig. 1) is a remarkable
example of the bastard Gothic of the period. Its general design remains
thoroughly medieval, but much of the detail is pseudo-classical in
character. This is particularly seen on the arcade in front of the
tomb-chest, and in the balusters on either side. The grotesque animals on
the extrados of the tomb-arch are quite in the whimsical and vigorous
style so often found in sculptured work of this period in the north-east
of Scotland; while the "mort’s head" on the tomb-chest represents the
incoming of a degraded taste that reached its climax in the two following
centuries. On the dexter spandrel is a shield of florid design, showing
the Forbes arms, with an esquire’s helmet and the motto
SALUS PER CHRISTUM,
while on either side of the shield are the laird’s
initials and below it the date 1589. On the sinister spandrel a similar
shield, having a man’s hat for a crest, bears the arms of his wife,
Elizabeth Gordon of Lesmoir, impaled with those of Forbes, together with
her initials and the superscription DOCHTER TO LESMOR. Portrait statuettes
of the laird and his lady support the tracery on either side. The total
height of the monument, to the top of the heavy battlemented cornice, is 7
feet 6 inches, and its over-all breadth is 8 feet 8 inches.
A curious licence, dated 8th
February 1582, was granted to William Forbes by James VI, relieving him
from all military duties because he was suffering from "ane dolour and
diseaiss in his ene, proceiding be ane distillatioun out of the heid," and
further permitting him "to eit flesche with thrie or foure with him in
companie in the forbidden tyme." His fame is commemorated in elegiac
strains by the Latin poet, Arthur Johnstone of Caskieben, whose language
seems to imply that King James had visited the castle—a circumstance which
might account for the interest he displayed in the laird. The poem was
evidently designed to be inscribed upon his tomb in Tarves :—
"DE GULIELMO FORBESIO TOLCHONO.
Auxisset cum prole domum Tolchonus et
arvis
Confectus senio sponte reliquit humum.
Condidit hunc tumulum quo conditur ipse, supremum
Expectans animo nil metuente diem.
Hunc prope pauperibus devotos aspicis agros
Tectaque mortali non violanda manu.
Nec procul his domini surgunt palatia, regis
Non semel hospitio nobilitata sui.
Has terris monimenta dedit Tolchonus, et inter
Has operum moles crescere vidit opes.
Quantulus, exuvias si spectas corporis, alti
Si pensas animi munera, quantus homo est."
The reference to the Bede House at
Tarves—" tectaque mortali non violanda manu "—has now an ironic
ring in view of its recorded history as we have summarised it above.
The most interesting monument that
the old laird has left behind him is undoubtedly the very considerable
extension which he built to his castle, converting the cramped "auld tour"
into a spacious mansion laid out upon a design much more ambitious than
was usual among the houses of Aberdeenshire country gentlemen of the
period. And a mortification of his property, dated 3rd December 1589—six
weeks after the work of building was finished—makes it clear that the
castle was furnished in keeping with its architectural pretensions; for in
the list of his effects are included: "my haill siluer wark, builds,
bedding, tapestrie, neprie, timmer wark, artalyerie, wther furniture
insycht and plenising quhatsumewer." Elsewhere in the same inventory he
dwells, with what seems a touch of pardonable pride, upon the ample
accommodation provided by his new mansion, enumerating "within the wallis
of my houiss, tour, and place of Tolquhone," "my hallis, gallareis,
chalmeris, vardrepe, kitchingis, stabillis, sellaris, lednaris, pantreis,
librellis, or wther office houssis quhatsumewer."
We like to think that the laird who
thus classed his "buikis" as next in value to his plate was a scholar of
sorts. His library was long preserved at Whitehaugh, in the Howe of
Alford, where the representatives of the Tolquhon Forbeses settled after
their dispossession from their ancestral home: but most unfortunately it
was dispersed piecemeal about the middle of the last century. In Beattie’s
correspondence, preserved in the Aberdeen University Library, there is a
letter from Mr Forbes Leith of Whitehaugh, dated 26th April 1779, in which
he states that he had lent Dr Beattie certain" Old Musick Books which had
belong’d to my predecessors, and were found by me among some small remains
of a valuable Library, which my Gt. Gt. Grandfather, Wm. Forbes of
Tolquhon, possess’d about 200 years ago—I find many of his books mark’d in
1588, he was then aged 38 years, and he lived till 1643. Whenever I can
recover any bearing his name—or that of Geo. Ogilvie, with whom he was
connected, I think them an Acquisition." It was, however, not the builder
of the castle, but his son, the second William, who died in 1643.
Some particulars of the library are
preserved in a short notice, over the initials J. M., which will be
found in Notes and Queries for 10th September 1859. I imagine that
the author of this notice was James Maidment. In it he speaks of William
Forbes of Tolquhon as "a great book collector," and as to his library he
says that "the very rare and curious volumes which recently came from the
north, and were disposed of in detached portions by Mr Nisbet in Edinburgh
at various times, made it a matter of regret that the library was not sold
in its entire state with a proper descriptive catalogue." Maidment (if he
be the writer) is dealing particularly with an edition of Erasmus’s
Apophthegmata, quarto, 1533, written on the flyleaf of which was a
letter in the hand of Florentius Volusenus (Florence Wolson, the author of
the De Tranquillitate Animi) presenting the volume to his friend
John Ogilvie, parson of Cruden. Ogilvie in return is requested to send a
little nag (equuleum) as Wolson proposes to go to the country, and
requires the use of a horse. He reminds Ogilvie of the pleasure he
sometimes had derived from Erasmus; and he makes many enquiries about
their mutual acquaintances, and in particular sends his love to Master
Hector Boece. The book had subsequently come into the possession of the
laird of Tolquhon, as appeared from his autograph on the title-page, thus:
"William Forbes of Tolquhon, 1588."
In the Library of the Diocese of
Aberdeen and Orkney—now housed, under an arrangement with the Synod, in
the University Library at King’s College—is preserved another book that
had belonged to the old laird. It is a folio edition, in a modern binding,
of the works of Joannes Damascenus, printed at Basel by Henricus Petrus,
March 1535. On the title-page (fig. 2) is our laird’s autograph, in a bold
and cultured hand, full of character: "Villeame forbes of toiquhone,
1588." Beside it is the autograph of his descendant, Beattie’s
correspondent, John Forbes Leith of Whitehaugh, and the date 1778.
But what makes this book still more
interesting is the fact that underneath the device of Henricus Petrus is
pasted in the ex libris of Robert Reid, Abbot of Kinloss from 1526,
and Bishop of the Orkneys from 1541 until his death in 1558. Reid was one
of the foremost churchmen of his day, distinguished alike as a statesman,
a builder, and a patron of learning. He was a great lover of books, and
erected a splendid vaulted library at Kinloss. The association of this
book with Kinloss at once arouses our interest, when we remember that
Florence Wolson, to whom the other book (which came into Tolquhon’s
possession in the same year) had belonged, was a "Moray Loon"—born, as he
himself tells us, near the River Lossie. After being educated at Aberdeen
University, Wolson went to Paris, probably to the Scots College, which was
founded in the first place for students from Moray. In Paris he entered
the service of Cardinal Wolsey as tutor to his nephew, Thomas Wynter, Dean
of Wells, who at that time was studying in the French capital. This
connection with Wolsey involved Wolson in various diplomatic activities,
and he is known to have visited London in 1534. The terms of his letter to
John Ogilvie, parson of Cruden, accompanying the gift of the Erasmus,
make it quite clear that Wolson was then in the north country; and it
seems reasonably certain that he seized the opportunity of his mission to
England in 1534 to revisit the scenes of his boyhood. The date of this
visit was certainly after 1533, in which year the Erasmus was
printed, and before 1536, in which year died Hector Boece, to whom he
sends his greetings. Now Ogilvie also had been brought up in Moray, and we
know from Wolson’s own testimony that they had been youthful companions in
their walks and literary discussions along the banks of the Lossie. It
will be noted that both books, the Erasmus and the Damascenus,
came into the hands of William Forbes in the same year 1588. May the
Damascenus also, therefore, have come from the library of John
Ogilvie, and may it have been a gift to him from the Abbot of Kinloss? If
both Ogilvie and Wolson visited Kinloss between 1533 and 1536, the
Damascenus, which was printed in March 1535, must have been newly in
Reid’s hands, and the date of their visit is thus practically restricted
to the latter year—a circumstance wholly in accordance with the known fact
that Wolson was in London in 1534. (He was back in Paris in September
1535, and on the 19th of that month he started from Chalmont on the
journey to Italy that resulted in his appointment as professor of
eloquence at Carpentras.) And, if all this be true, how did two books that
belonged to Ogilvie come into the possession of the laird of Tolquhon in
the year 1588? Is it a coincidence that our laird’s son and successor
married an Ogilvie—Janet, daughter of Sir George Ogilvie of Dunlugas, who
evidently must be the George Ogilvie, also an owner of books, with whom,
according to Forbes Leith in his letter to Beattie, the laird of Tolquhon
was connected? John Ogilvie, the parson of Cruden, in 1555 was created by
Pope Paul IV a Canon of Aberdeen, and was still alive on 1st November
1570, when he witnessed a feu charter of certain lands in Old Aberdeen.
Of course we have been wandering in a realm of pure
conjecture, though it is conjecture with more than a dash of probability
in it. But it is enough to have placed on record two books that belonged
to our scholarly old laird of Tolquhon, and to note that they associate
his library with a group of distinguished and highly cultured men—the last
and, in some respects, the finest flowering of the medieval church in
Scotland.
Two other volumes belonging to the
old Tolquhon Castle library were in the possession of the late Miss Fyers,
Camp Cottage, Kirkton of Maryculter, a descendant of the family. One of
these books, which unfortunately lacks the title-page, is an interesting
folio in lettres bâtardes, printed in Paris by Maistre Nicole de la
Barre, 1518. The work is entitled Croniques et Mirouer Hystorial de
France, a translation of the Latin original by Robert Gaguin. On folio
AAii, recto, with which the copy, which is in a late
eighteenth-century binding, now begins, is the signature "Williame Forbes
of Tolquhon, 1588," and also that of John Forbes Leith of Whitehaugh,
1778. Other owners, who have left their names on the last page, were "Thone
Meldrum, Marchemond Herald," and "Thome Meldrum burgis of Aberdene."
The other volume is a large folio
blackletter Bible, printed at London by Christopher Barker in 1583. It is
of interest, because it bears on the title-page the signature of George
Ogilvy. On folio 532, verso (being the blank page at the end of the
Old Testament), William Forbes, the twelfth and last laird, has entered
the particulars of his marriage to Anna Leith, daughter of John Leith of
Whitehaugh, and the births of his children, three sons and two daughters.
Very curiously, the names and dates have been carefully blacked out.
Doubtless other books belonging to
the old laird still survive, scattered about the public and private
libraries of Great Britain and America: but inquiry has failed to trace
any of them.
In 1550 our laird, who three years
previously had succeeded his father, fallen at Pinkie, was bound over in
two thousand pounds, for his son and "friends" (i.e. relatives),
not to trouble the Provost and Baillies of Aberdeen. Whatever the dispute
may have been, it left no abiding ill-will, for on 27th October 1578 he
was elected a burgess of the city. As a witness to writs his name is
constantly found, and it is clear he was a much respected man whose
assistance in legal matters was constantly sought by his neighbours. He
added considerably to his patrimony, purchasing in 1585 the lands of
Woodland, Knaperna and half of Tullimad.
In national affairs his appearances
are few, but uniformly creditable. On 2nd September 1574 he signed at
Aberdeen the "Band of the Baronis in the North," professing allegiance to
the Regency of Morton. And on 30th January 1580, along with other northern
barons, he was directed by the Privy Council, in accordance with measures
then being taken to compose the feud between the Gordons and the Forbeses,
"to subscrive sic formes of assuirances as salbe presentit unto thame,
notit by the clerk of Counsale, to induir unto the first day of August
nixt to euni, within XXIIII houris nixt eftir they be chairgit thairto,
under the pane of rebellioun." On 23rd April following it was reported to
the Council that the required assurance had duly been given. But the
quarrels were too deep-rooted thus easily to be composed, and on 10th July
Tolquhon associated himself with others of his name in renewed complaints
against the Gordons. On 19th February 1589 he sends in a petition to the
Council, stating that he ought not to be included among those whom Lord
Forbes and the Master of Forbes are charged to enter before the King and
Council as pledges for the good conduct of the Forbeses, seeing that he is
not a tenant of Lord Forbes, but is "ane gentilman holding his landis
immediatlie of his Majestie, and the same landis and his dwelling lyand in
Buchane, and he, his haill tennentis and servantis, being subject to the
course of justice." It would be unreasonable, he urges, to "burdyn the
said complenair that duellis laich in Buchane with the disobedience of ony
brokin men of the surename of Forbes" residing in Mar and Strathdon. The
Council admitted the force of his contention, and granted the exoneration
that he craved. Our laird’s loyalty and restraining action upon his
tenantry amid the inveterate feuds of the time are again appreciatively
referred to in connection with a complaint by two of his tenants on 24th
June 1590.
William Forbes did not live long to
enjoy the comforts of his "houiss tour and place," for he was dead before
22nd March 1596. What has been stated to be his portrait by Jamesone, in
the possession of Lord Saltoun and formerly at Philorth House, is
reproduced in Musa Latina Aberdonensis: but unfortunately it is a
portrait not of our laird but of his son, also William, whose daughter
married Sir Alexander Fraser of Philorth—hence the reason for her father’s
portrait being there. In 1596, when our William Forbes died, Jamesone was
only six or seven years old. Probably the old laird‘s expenditure had
outrun his means; at all events, throughout the next century the family
fell more and more into embarrassment. The tenth laird made a bold effort
to right himself by participation in the Darien Scheme, whose collapse
spelt ruin to the House of Tolquhon. In 1716 the estate had to be sold,
and on 5th September 1718 the eleventh laird, who had refused to abandon
the home of his fathers, was wounded and dislodged by a party of redcoats,
Tolquhon ultimately passed to the Earls of Aberdeen, and a portion of the
castle was inhabited as a farmhouse until well into the last century. In
1929 the ruins were handed over by the Earl of Haddo to the custody of the
Ancient Monuments Department of His Majesty’s Office of Works.
Mr J. C. M. Ogilvie Forbes of
Boyndlie has in his possession the original manuscript of Matthew
Lumsden’s Description of the Genealogie of the House of Forbes, as
continued down to 1667 by William Forbes of Leslie. That this Boyndlie
manuscript is Forbes’s original draft is clearly shown by the fact that it
contains at the end of it a number of memoranda and jottings about further
matters which Forbes wished to clear up with a view to making the treatise
still more complete. For the most part these memoranda are concerned with
minute details of local genealogy; but at the head of them is the
following surprising statement:
"Nota the renowned Navigatour
Martine Forbisher is descended of the house of Tolquhone but tyme hath
worne out the knowledge of his parents."
The authorities upon Sir Martin
Frobisher know nothing about this alleged Scottish descent. It would be
extremely interesting were confirmation of it to be forthcoming.
II.
To the March 1925 issue of the
Aberdeen University Review I contributed a full descriptive survey of
the ruins in their then condition. It is sufficient, therefore, in the
present paper to resume the main features of the castle, and to describe
in greater fulness the new details revealed in the course of the
operations carried out by the Ancient Monuments Department.
Whereas most of the contemporary
mansions in Aberdeenshire were built upon one of the numerous varieties of
the tower-house plan, William Forbes chose to erect his "new wark" on the
design of a rectangular block enclosing a court, Preston’s Tower being
incorporated into the north-east angle of the additions. This courtyard
(see plans at end, figs. 12, 13) measures 68 feet by 50 feet. In the
centre of the north front (figs. 3, 4) is the gatehouse (fig. 5) which,
with its arched portal, flanked by sturdy drum-towers with heavily grated
windows, and enriched with moulded stringcourses, grotesque figurines,
fanciful gun-loops, and coats-of-arms, has an unusual and somewhat
imposing effect. The gatehouse is dated 1586. It is balanced on the east
side by Preston’s Tower, and on the other side by a round tower (figs. 3,
6, 10) salient from the north-west angle of the castle. This round tower
corresponds to a square tower (fig. 7) projected at the south-eastern
angle—the whole arrangement thus forming a remarkable and very well
thought-out application, to a courtyard castle, of the so-called Z-plan,
in which angle towers are écheloned at each of two diagonally opposite
corners of the main building. Beside the gatehouse is a panel with the
following finely cut inscription :—AL - THIS - WARKE EXCEP - THE - AULD -
TOUR - WAS - BEGUN - BE - WILLIAM - FORBES - 15 - APRILE - 1584 - AND -
ENDIT - BE - HIM - 20 - OCTOBER - 1589.
The principal apartments occupy the
south side of the quadrangle and take the form of a long building with a
"jam" or staircase wing attached. In the basement, which is vaulted, are
the kitchen and three cellars, with two service stairs to the main floor
above. Midway in this wing a round staircase tower (figs. 7, 8) projects
upon the courtyard, and contains in its basement a stone shelf for dishes,
conveniently placed for the service window in the kitchen. The main
entrance in the "jam" is a fine arched portal, and within a spacious
scale-and-platt stair, mounting over a vaulted guardroom, gives access to
the first floor. Here is a handsome and well-lit hall, measuring 37 feet
by 19 feet, with a sandstone pavement of hexagonal flags interlocking with
smaller squares. Beyond the hall is the solar or private room, off which
opens a small oratory. Access to the upper storey is obtained by a wheel
stair in the drum tower, which above the eaves level is corbelled out into
a picturesque corbie-stepped cap-house. There is a secret chamber, perhaps
a "lug," forming an entresol in the end wall of the private room, and
reached by a hatch from the floor above. Over the main stair landing in
the "jam" are two storeys of living rooms, served by a small wheel stair.
This main portion of the castle
forms a building by itself, and was constructed as a unit. It is
structurally separate from the east wing,
and the west wing was later built on
to the "jam "—as appears from a well-marked joint. The west wing is of two
storeys, containing in the basement vaulted cellars and a brew house, and
on the first floor a spacious gallery, measuring 57 feet by 14 feet. In
the round tower at the north-west corner are a vaulted cellar and two
bedrooms, the lower one vaulted, and the upper one being reached by a
small turret stair.
The north or gatehouse wing again
forms a structural unit, set in between Preston’s Tower and the west wing.
As it is dated midway in the building period, it was probably erected next
after the south or main wing, and the two lateral wings completed last of
all: although it is equally clear that the whole castle forms one design,
and was so contemplated from the outset. The north wing contains in its
basement the trance and guardhouses all vaulted, and on the upper floor an
extension of the gallery, with alcoves in the drum towers.
The east wing, which is greatly
ruined and has not been vaulted, appears to have provided offices in the
basement and guests’ rooms above. At its south end is the bakehouse, with
two ovens in the square tower, the two upper storeys of which were
bedrooms, reached by a turret stair. Through a hatch in the floor of the
lower bedroom a small "pit" or prison is reached, behind
the ovens.
The only other castle in the north
of Scotland that at all closely resembles Tolquhon Castle is Boyne, near
Portsoy. Here the symmetrical quadrangular lay-out, not being impeded by
an older tower, is carried out with even greater konsequenz than at
Tolquhon. Somewhat similar accommodation, though on a less symmetrical
design, is provided by the "palace" at Dunnottar: while the newer building
of Edzell Castle also has points of resemblance to Tolquhon. Between the
old house of Schivas, also in the parish of Tarves, and the south wing of
Tolquhon, the resemblance in plan is so close, and the details, such as
the ornate gunloops, are so precisely similar, that it is hardly possible
to doubt they are both the work of the same master mason.
An interesting feature about
Tolquhon Castle is the large outer court (see plan, fig. 14), with a
fore-gate (fig. 9) and "laich-bigging," including a dovecot at the
north-east corner. On the west side of this there still exists an ample
pleasance (see plan, fig. 14, and illustration, fig. 10) showing a
cruciform arrangement of trees in two broad intersecting avenues of sombre
old hollies and yews. If this lay-out is also due to the seventh laird, we
are still more impressed by his advanced ideas. Connected with the
pleasance are a curious series of twelve small recesses, probably for
skeps, in the forecourt wall (fig. 10). Similar provision may be seen in
the precinct wall at Pluscarden Priory, and in one of the old walls in the
policies of Hatton Castle, near Turriff. All round the castle are the
survivors of fine old beech and ash trees. The state of these ancient
policies, before the castle was taken over by His Majesty’s Commissioners
of Works, may be best recalled in a passage from the third chapter of
Kenilworth, which is so apt in every particular that it might well
have been written about Tolquhon :—
"They stood now in an avenue
overshadowed by such old trees as we have described, and which had been
bordered at one time by high hedges of yew and holly. But these, having
been untrimmed for many years, had run up into great hushes, or rather
dwarf trees, and now encroached, with their dark and melancholy boughs,
upon the road which they once had screened. The avenue itself was
grown up with grass, and, in one or two places, interrupted by piles of
withered brushwood, which had been lopped from the trees cut down in the
neighbouring park, and was here stacked for drying. Formal walks and
avenues, which, at different points, crossed this principal approach,
were, in like manner, choked up and interrupted by piles of brushwood and
billets, and in other places by underwood and brambles. Besides the
general effect of desolation which is so strongly impressed, whenever we
behold the contrivances of man wasted and obliterated by neglect, and
witness the marks of social life effaced gradually by the influence of
vegetation, the size of the trees and the outspreading extent of their
boughs, diffused a gloom over the scene, even when the sun was at the
highest, and made a proportionate impression on the mind of those who
visited it."
The principal discoveries that have
been made, during the conservation proceedings, are in connection with
clearing out Preston’s Tower. Above its basement only the two outer walls
remain, and these in a greatly ruined state. The interior walls had fallen
into the court and filled it with a mass of ruin. Preston’s Tower measures
40 feet 6 inches by 29 feet, and at ground level the walls are 7 feet 6
inches thick. On its north-west corner three corbels of a machicolated
"round" or angle turret still exist, at a height of 45 feet above ground.
The masonry of the "Auld Tour" is much more massive than that of the later
buildings, being composed of larger boulders with fewer pinnings. A
vaulted cellar occupies the basement, and is lit by a single loophole on
the north and west faces. The entrance, defended by outer and inner doors,
is in the south wall. Although the upper part has now disappeared,
voussoirs lying amid the ruins show that it terminated in a pointed arch
having a hood-mould, bevelled above and hollowed underneath, resting on
plain stops of which the west one was carved with a rosette. This detail
is quite in keeping with a date about the end of the fourteenth century.
Midway in the east side of the entrance passage a straight mural stair
leads up to the hall on the first floor. In the west wall there has been a
service stair, descending from the screens end of the hall as a vice and
finishing with three straight steps down into the cellar, the lowest being
at a height of 9 inches above the floor. This arrangement is very unusual.
The hall is now greatly ruined. At its northern or dais end is a large
fireplace, 7 feet wide, with jambs showing a filleted and quirked edge
roll between hollows. The hall was lit by a large window on either hand,
with seats in their ingoings: the west window was blocked when the
gatehouse wing was built. In the north-east corner is an aumbry. The main
stair enters the hall at the south-east corner, and here also is placed
the garderobe. In connection with William Forbes’s additions a door was
slapped through so as to give access to the east wing.
In clearing away the fallen stones
which encumbered the tower, an exceedingly fine heraldic stone was
discovered (fig. 11). It displays in bold relief a shield of heater
pattern bearing arms, a cross-crosslet fitchée for Leith between three
bear’s heads muzzled and couped for Forbes, surmounted by a tilting
helmet, mantled and having a bear’s head as a crest. William Forbes, the
fifth laird, who succeeded in 1509, married a daughter of Leith of Barnes.
On the dexter spandrel is carved in high relief a symbol resembling an
early form of arabic numeral four. This stone is one of the first pieces
of medieval heraldic sculpture remaining in the north of Scotland.
Close south of Preston’s Tower the
castle well was discovered. It is 5 feet in diameter and 19 feet deep,
cradled in rubble. The well is inconveniently near to two doors in the
eastern wing, than which it is probably older.
Removal of the ruins
of the fallen Preston’s Tower has enabled a complete plan of the east wing
to be made. Its middle compartment in the basement contains a vat, with a
drain to the outside. The gutter which runs round the newer buildings is
not continued round Preston’s Tower, the walls of which are built upon a
foundation of boulders. Both at the northwest and south-east corners of
the tower, tusks of the early barmkin wall still remain, and portions of
this wall seem to be embodied in the present outer wall of the east wing.
The courtyard is neatly cobbled (see figs 8).
The work of consolidation disclosed
a number of interesting features in the sixteenth-century buildings,
notably a fine carved pendant in the west window of the hall. It retains a
slender iron ring which may have been used for hanging a bird cage. Among
the miscellaneous carved fragments that have been found are two pieces
showing that there has been a second royal coat-of-arms, as well as the
one on the gatehouse. Probably this other one was on Preston’s Tower.
One of the lamentable results of the
dilapidation that overtook Tolquhon Castle during the last century has
been the disappearance of its painted ceilings. People still living
remember their last mouldering traces. All that is known of them is that
the joists in some of the chief rooms were covered with scripture texts.’
No doubt they were similar in character to those which still charm us at
Crathes and Delgaty. The total destruction of these paintings is the more
to be regretted, because we may be sure that so cultured and imaginative a
bauherr as our old laird would have finished his ceilings with
decorations of uncommon interest.
In the course of their operations in
tidying up the old policies, the Commissioners of Works have formed a
lovely lakelet on the southeast side, where formerly was an ugsome swamp,
and have planted divers flowers on its banks. Out of the ruined "laich-bigging,"
on the east side of the forecourt, a charming little keeper’s cottage has
been fashioned. For all these doings of the Ancient Monuments Department
no praise can be too high. Thus carefully tended and shielded from all
further dilapidation, the Castle of Tolquhon has become one of the most
delightful, as it is certainly one of the most interesting, baronial ruins
in Aberdeenshire. Only a decent road of approach is necessary for its
attractions to become fully known to lovers of the picturesque and
admirers of our national heritage in architecture.
I am particularly indebted to Mr
David L. Medd for the admirable series of measured drawings and
photographs which he has prepared for this paper. The views of the castle
by Giles are reproduced by courtesy of the Council of the Third Spalding
Club.
ADDITIONAL NOTE.
Since the foregoing was in type, yet
another volume belonging to the erudite old laird has turned up in
Aberdeen University Library. It is De Scripturae Sanctae Authoritate,
Certitudine, Firmitate et Absoluta Perfectione . . . Heinrychi
Bullingeri Libri duo, addressed to Henry VIII, quarto, Zurich, 1538.
On the title page is the signature Willeame forbes of tolquhone,
and also (twice repeated) that of an earlier owner, Alexander Arbuthnot,
Principal of King’s College, 1569—83.
The two volumes belonging to the
late Miss Fyers have now been acquired by Aberdeen University Library.
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