The day was beautiful,
the mists were rising' slowly but gradually up the sides of the
mountains, and every thing promised enjoyment. We hurried down to
Rose, where several boats were in the bustle of departure. Cars,
packages, baskets, and boatmen, were intermixed; and the latter
swore and made noise enough for all together. Our party, eight in
number, ladies and gentlemen, were at last safely embarked. "Take
care, Ma'am, your cloak is on fire," said a boatman to Mrs. L——.
“Dear me," exclaimed she, in the utmost consternation, pulling the
skirt of her pelisse out of the water, “How's that?—on fire?” “Oh,
yes, Ma'am; this lake burns clothes." The perplexity which this ex.
planation caused for a moment, and which was pictured in Mrs. L—'s
face, excited a laugh at the sally of Killarney wit.
As few of our party had ever seen a red deer, much less a stag hunt,
they were exceedingly anxious to learn something about the nature of
the animal, and the mode of hunting him. Fortunately, for the
gratification of their very laudable curiosity, a gentleman
acquainted with the habits of the deer, had been that morning too
late at Ross to overtake his friends, and being slightly known to
some of us, had accepted a pan. sage in our boat. The information he
gave was somewhat to this effect: “The stag, when full-grown, is
about the size of a rather small mule, with a less bulky body, much
smaller and more graceful limbs; and as to muscular force, there is
no comparison between them. The enormous leap that a stag will make,
headlong from one rock to another, and the steadiness with which he
keeps his position after such a spring, proves the great strength
and elasticity of his structure. It is in his neck, however, that
the largest mass of muscle is placed. This gives that part its
peculiar and somewhat ungainly appearance, but at the same time
amply compensates for the defect by the quantity of power it
concentrates in the very place where it is most required for the
safety of the animal. As to the courage of the stag, every one knows
it is of that kind which is never exerted until the last moment of
danger arrives. On some occasions, indeed, he may be irritated so as
to become the assailant; and on one of these he is really
formidable. An anecdote er two will set this in a clearer light than
any general remark.
“About eight years ago, Mr. O’Connell took a very fine stag on
Tomies, and had him conveyed to that white house—that on the gentle
slope,— with the intention of hunting him on the great day of St.
Patrick. During the intermediate time, the stag was fed on
sheaf-oats, ivy and holly leaves. Confinement seemed to have
diminished his appetite very little, but it brought to light an
extremely severe lameness in the right shoulder. This was afterwards
found to have been caused by a musket shot, and the hall was
actually taken out of the limb. It is curious that, during the chase
which ended in his capture, no signs of lameness were visible.
Nature, it seems, had, after her own way, cured the wound, but
violent exertion and the subsequent confinement, irritated it anew.
At length Patrick's day arrived, and with it, from all quarters of
the country, multitudes of every class: of course there was a
splendid field. On the right of the house were drawn up in a mass,
carriages, gigs, cars, and vehicles, of which the names would puzzle
Long Acre,—all nearly filled with ladies. From the extremity of
this, ran a long triple line of men, designed to prevent the stag
from turning direct to his old mountains, and so spoiling all the
sport of the day. The other side of the country was intentionally
left open to him; but very few had a notion that any thing more was
required to change his course than the single appearance of a man,
or at most a shout, and the waving of a stick. The preparations
being made, the door was thrown open, and some one attempted to
drive out the stag: of which the immediate consequence was, that he
put himself at bay, and seemed plainly determined to hold his
domicile. After various fruitless efforts to dislodge him, a rope
was at length thrown over his antlers: six strong men, Mr. O’Connell
and Mr. O’Sullivan among them,—seized it, and pulled him out by main
force. As soon as they had got him fairly beyond the threshold,
those who knew the animal’s disposition instantly turned tail, and
fled, until a pair of strong gates and a high wall were placed
between themselves and their antagonist. One man only continued to
hold the end of the rope. It was now the rage, the malignity, and
strength of the stag were discovered. I have not the least doubt,
that if the extreme weakness of his fore-leg had not disabled him so
much that a man by ordinary running might outstrip him, (for at
almost every step the poor brute fell,) that several lives would
have been lost. He reared upright, on his hind-legs, (and you might
see, at the time, yellow muscles, of the thickness of a man’s arm,
start up along the whole length of his back,) and rushed wherever he
saw a living being. In one of those attempts he reached within two
yards of the mass of carriages: the terrors of ladies, the affright
of horses, and the clash of the various vehicles, of themselves
promised a scene; when he luckily fell, and was thus diverted by a
new object. The man holding the rope, who all this time had remained
stupified on the field, caught his view: he rushed at him, knocked
him down, and made a gash with the antler at him. I saw the man
afterwards. His coat, waistcoat, and shirt were torn; and the flesh
grazed in a long line up the belly and breast. The wound, he said,
did not heal for several months. But he would have been killed had
not the crowd, encouraged by his danger, attacked the stag. The
latter turned at once upon them,—scattered them in all
directions,—ran next to the formidable triple line of men,—drove
them like sheep before him, —struck a horse,—overturned him; and
being completely master of the field, directed his course towards
the lake. It is unnecessary to follow him farther.
There was another stag reared as a pet, by a gentleman in this
neighbourhood. He grew to great size and strength, and became the
plague of the surrounding country. No fence could save a corn or
potato field from his ravages; and even when discovered at the first
dawn, it was only by much persuasion he could be induced to quit it.
To women he had a most decided antipathy. The moment he descried one
at any distance he gave chase, and the population of an entire farm
was required to save her from his fury. Another habit made the
gudewives regard him with scarce less abhorrence. He took a singular
pleasure in collecting, in his rambles, all the clothes, thread,
sheets, blankets, &c. he could find drying on the fields; and
tossing these about with his antlers, he made, as he thought, a
magnificent figure to the country. At length his mischievousness and
ferocity increased to such a degree, (for if he happened to be
brought by any accident into close contact even with those he knew
best, he at once attacked them with extreme malignity,) that his
master had a heavy weight slung from his antlers. The rope was so
long as to allow the weight to trail along the ground. This was a
considerable check upon his movements, and one time brought him into
a serious scrape.
Upon a beautiful day in spring, he crossed the Laune, with the
sideline, as it was called, attached to him; and, according to his
old custom, began to collect all the clothes that came in his way.
Of blankets he had soon enough for a whole tribe of Indians: the
quantity of thread on his antlers looked like the tail of a comet:
sheets, coats, shirts •rose over one another in a huge pile, which
was ultimately surmounted by a picturesque red petticoat, until he
looked like Monmouth Street making the grand tour, or ‘ the remnant
of Israel1 setting out for the Holy Land. On he went, tossing his
head, looking proudly to all points of the horizon, and glorifying
himself upon the new order of architecture he had raised; while the
wives and children of the parish gazed with dismay on his progress.
On a sudden he stopped short, listened for a second or two, and then
precipitately turned round. At the same time feeling, no doubt, the
emptiness of all earthly honours, he began, in good reality, to
disencumber himself of his finery. In a few moments a solitary cry
of a hound came upon the gale—another and another soon followed ;
and, immediately after, the whole open-mouthed chase was on his
trail. His fine ear had caught the sounds before any of the
country-people heard them ; and, thinking it quite a serious matter,
he ran for home with all his speed. Notwithstanding the great weight
of the sideline, he reached the nearest bank of the river before the
dogs overtook him. In he plunged; and in plunged, despite the utmost
efforts of the huntsmen to restrain them, the whole pack. They
caught him in the middle of the river; but he turned round and made
desperate battle. Cots, boats, and men put off to his assistance
nothing, however, could save him from losing sundry pounds and half
pounds of venison. At the same time, three or four dogs floating
down the stream, and about double that number, moaning and
struggling towards the bank, proved how stoutly he had contended for
the monopoly of his own body. At length he was safely landed. In a
few weeks his wounds healed; and all his old habits returned, but
with one exception—he never after crossed the river.
Having arrived at the place fixed for the hunt, we found an immense
number of boats assembled there, and some containing very lovely
women. Of them I am not just at present preparing to give you a
formidable description, as it might cost Mrs. Jamieson and the world
another volume; but a few words upon the locality will be necessary.
The mountains there sweep outward in a semicircle; the horns of
which are formed, on one side, by the Eagle's Nest with all its
thunders; and on the other, by the southern peak of Glennfi, with
its less loud, but perhaps sweeter echoes. In front of the
mountains, and separated from them by several wooded, and (as I can
aver) most perplexing ravines, stands a blunt smooth hill, affording
on its summit a clear platform. Nearer still, and divided from the
latter by a number of the same cursed water-cuts, are two or three
little hillocks. Between those and the lake lies a bog, of which,
perhaps, more hereafter. The mountains themselves remarked by that
intermixture of grandeur and beauty, that blending of opposite
elements, that union of the terrible and the placid, of precipice
and wood, rugged rock, smooth sward, and wild ravine, which form the
real charm of the most romantic scenery in the world. There are
places, of course, infinitely more sublime. I have myself seen some
more purely beautiful: hut for the artful combination of both in a
single view, there is no place approaches Killarney. It produces a
distinct peculiar fellig in the mind. As to the county Wicklow,
which is so often compared with it, there is the same difference
between them that exists between Perry end Champagne.
The time for commencing the hunt was new arrived. Accordingly all
the parties left the boats, and ware with delightful trouble safely
conveyed to some low, reund, pretty bills, at a short distance from
the lake. A shot was the signal for laying on the hounds. The usual
course pursued on occasions similar to the present is this: Several
men are employed to find a stag and watch him to his lair. This, if
undisturbed, he continues to occupy a long time; and as he never
quits it but at night, he is almost sure to be found there on the
day fixed for the hunt. As soon as this has arrived, large numbers
of them are employed to fill the well-known passes leading up the
mountains, and thence to distant wilds, in which “the antlered
monarch" might defy the chase. The .great object of the hunt is to
drive him into the water, while hi* first burst is invariably for
the mountains. The moment the men on the passes see him approach,
they endeavour, by shouts and threats, to tun him back. In this they
are successful, should they happen to descry him all a considerable
distance; but should he, by any chance, come upon them suddenly, his
blood is up, and if there were fifty men, he’d break through them.
The shouting of the men has, accordingly, a strong interest, as it
always announces a view."
It seemed, after all, that we were doomed to disappointment. The
news rapidly circulated that the stag had left his lair the
preceding night without notice; and, as it was deemed unlikely that
there could be a hunt without him, every countenance looked as blank
as the bog before us. Some moved over to when Mr. O’Connellf stood,
in the midi die of his staff; but brought no mon cheering
intelligence than this, that they must trust to chance and the dogs
for a deer. Even this weak hope was blighted when a half hour had
passed away, and no stag seemed willing to come forth and “ die" for
the amusement of so many anxious persons. But the darkest hour is
that before the dawn. The gentleman alluded to before, seeing a huge
mountaineer named Grady, and of distinguished skill in
deer-stalking, about to plunge into the woods, asked me to join him.
Of course my consent was not wanting. The mountaineer had a very
strange sort of buckhound with him—no other, viz., than a
surly-looking bull-bitch, from which I didn't augur much success.
Were the object to pin a bull to the earth, we seemed not badly
furnished; but te rouse a stag the appliances seemed odd enough. On
1 went, meditating upon the curious ways our Milesian friends take
to effect their purposes, when I was roused by the mountaineer’s
suddenly exclaiming “By-there's something here!" I looked up. The
bull-bitch was in great agitation# snuffing, and shaking her head,
as if offended by the rankness of the odours she drew in, and yet
unable to quit them. We were in one of several dense thickets. “I
tell you/' said the mountaineer, “he isn't far away. Have you him,
Juno?" Juno, after taking from the gram a few more assurances that
she was not deceived, dashed into the thicket before us. We heard a
stifled bark or two—then a loud rush—and out bounded a kingly stag,
puffing and snorting with rage, and tossing hie head to get rid of a
large branch, which he had torn from a holly in his passage. Oh, the
rage he was in ! How his eyes flashed fire! With what indignation he
looked round for a moment to see the intruder on his dignity ! That
question was soon answered. Juno sprung out almost at his heels.
Grady, putting his hand into his ear, poured from the bottom of his
chest—which, to the best of my judgment, ended somewhere in Tartarus—a
shout that made the mountains ring again—-and another, and another.
In two minutes the dogs, with the short, sharp cry of impatience,
rushed out to us from the woods, and hurried along in full career.
They soon found, however, that this was not the right path. Sweeping
instantly round, and catching the full scent, they threw up their
heads to the sky, and swept away like a pack of devils on the chaoe.
The stag, full of strength and rage, dashed up the ravine between
the hill and the mountains; and emerging from thie, led right up the
side of the latter, intending to plunge into the inaccessible wilds
of the Gap, or even Glencare. After the first glorious burst, the
melody of the hounds came to us interruptedly, sometimes with
weaker, sometimes with fuller effect, according as their course lay
through the woods, or along open ground. If they plunged into the
bottom of a deep glen it was entirely lost; on the other hand, when
they emerged into air, it filled the sky, as if the whole ehsee had
changed its direction, and was running, open-mouthed, for the hill
on which we stood. But as soon as the kingly ruler of the woods
ascended the mountains, then the hunt assumed its peculiar character
of intoxicating pleasure; and in fact the gestures of many about me
were supremely ridiculous. The fineness of the day,—the beautiful
blue sky that overhung the earth,—the romantic scenery,—the
fragrance of the air,—the presence of so many handsome women, would
alone have made the spirits dance with delight; but the successive
shouting of the men, announcing the approach of the stag, and
multiplied and refined into infinitely greater sweetness by the
echoes of the mountains, the cheering of the huntsmen, and the
multitudinous cry of the hounds, as it came down upon the wind—all
united, hurried one away in a transport of passion.
For almost a full half-hour this state of excitement continued. The
stag was constantly in view; the shouts and cheering rolled like a
splendid conflagration from one extremity of the mountains to the
other; and the hounds never ceased to pour forth their deep and
troubled stream of melody. On the opposite side, the echoes
awakened. A raging hunt swept through the bosom of Mangerton, Turk,
and all the romantic hills around them. It seemed as if the old
heroes4 of the place were pursuing the game with dogs, whose
preternatural speed, and full magnificence of cry, threw earthly
rivals into contempt. Immense distances intervened between each
successive burst. Now hot and fierce, it filled the woods of Turk,
then suddenly ceased, as suddenly swelled again upon the heavens,
and ran southward with amazing velocity along the mountain ranges to
Kenmare, retaining all its harmony, but growing fainter as it went,
until the last voices seemed to be transparent shells of living
sweetness. Scarcely had it died away in the south, when it rose from
the glens of Mangerton louder than before, and rushed eastward in a
heady current through the vallies of Glenflesk. All thought that
this was the last, but we were mistaken ; for, in about a minute
after, the cry came so deep, close, and tumultuous, over the nearest
of the opposite mountains, that one could scarce help expecting to
behold the gigantic riders of the chase, with their spectral game
and hounds, appear upon its brow. The echoes prolonged thi6 noble
burst for a while, then rolled it away, until, at length, it died in
the distance beyond Glennd.
The shouts soon changed their direction. “You’ll see him
immediately,” said a gentleman. “When?—where?” “On the southern edge
of the hill; they have driven him back.” He was right. In a few
minutes the stag appeared on the brow of the hill, and afforded all
a full view of him. We could next see the dogs rise, at first one by
one, then in a body, from the ravine; and, in a long line of unequal
breadth, pursue the traces of the game, until both they and it
turned the shoulder of the hill, and were swallowed up in the
opposite ravine, with all the music that had followed them in their
career. For two or three hours after, the chase seemed to bp
entirely at an end. The cry of the dogs came only in solitary
openings; the huntsmen, one after another, were seen approaching the
boats, and the intelligence brought them was, “that the stag was
lost; they believed he had escaped over the mountains,” &c. Several
parties, upon this, began to drop down towards Glenna, some turned
to the upper lake; and, in a short time, the whole cavalcade had
nearly dispersed. On a sudden, however, and when the stanchest
sportsmen had given up the idea of the hunt, a loud burst from the
hounds near Glennd announced that they were in full chase* All
hurried along; boats jostling, dashing, and crashing; ladies
screaming, gentlemen soothing, and boatmen swearing at each other.
The impatience was increasing every instant, as the cry of the dogs
came full and uninterrupted; and all were sensible that the hunt
would probably be soon at an end. At length we reached Glenna, and
the broken cries indicated that the hounds were crossing a ravine.
Again they thickened; men were perceived filling the woods; and it
was evident that, unless the stag could break through them, and
escape up the mountain, he must take the water. The boats were now
assembled opposite a part of the beach which was free from wood; and
as the hunt was approaching it, word was given for the boats to fall
back, and leave the lake clear there. This, of course, signified
that the place was a favourable one for forcing the stag into the
water; and, as the decisive moment ap. proached, the eagerness and
expectation of all became painful. It was only surprising how long a
time elapsed before the stag was visible, for the chase was
unremitting; the voice of the hounds, and the cheering of men, not
only filled the woods, but seemed to be within twenty yards of us.
At last, the men lining the open space already mentioned, suddenly
shrunk back into the bushes, that too sudden a view of them might
not terrify the stag, and drive him back on the hounds. In a second
after, the noble animal rushed out, his whole body black with sweat
and soil; his heaving sides and violent panting proclaiming extreme
exhaustion. Immediately after, the hounds broke through the wood,
the men, with loud shouts, waving their hats, and brandishing
sticks, formed a dense ring about him, except on the water side.
There was no alternative, nevertheless; on he plunged his way, for
at every step he sunk up to the belly, with a strength which was
truly amazing, springing to meet any one who approached him, and
scattering the crowd wherever he turned. The dogs were now at his
haunches,—the multitude still harassed him ; there seemed no other
alternative—he plunged into the lake, the dogs and men after him.
The boats, which were with difficulty kept until now under some
control, at once rushed in a mass towards the stag; renewing, but
with ten times greater fury, the scene that had occurred on coming
down to Glenna. Oars intermingled, boats were consequently retarded,
and instantly a battle royal was on foot, in which sticks, boards,
baskets, and tillers performed their part. Perhaps several boats got
jammed together—on they pushed, sweated and rowed, using the
rowlocks of other boats as a fulcrum instead of the water, until the
superior ribs of some one enabled her to disengage herself from the
press. The general way, however, was, that the boatmen quietly
stopped up, in order to have a trial of one another’s strength. The
main body of the boats, however, with deafening cries of exultation
and impatience, pressed towards the stag, who was swimming (followed
closely by the whole pack) in a slanting direction from the shore.
Of the men who had almost unconsciously plunged in after him, some
were holding on by the sides of boats, notwithstanding the loud
protests of the owners ; some were scrambling up the steep shore,
their pockets, trousers, and stockings, full of water ; and their
whole persons so swollen and puffed out as for a moment to bear no
slight resemblance to a hogshead; until the discharge of the water
substituted, for their late bloated magnitude, a most lank,
shrunken, wobegone appearance; others, again, were executing various
tumbles in the liquid element; but, at length, some women put off in
boats to their assistance, and succeeded in bringing them safely to
land. The multitude on shore pursued the course of the stag—plunging
up to the gam morals at every step in the deep soil— upsetting and
overturning one another, but nevertheless bellowing all the time
with rapture. The stag swam well—the great number of boats also
retarded each other, so that he was able to gain a considerable
space a-head. At length three boats separated themselves from the
rest, and flew along the Lake. It was evident that the contest must
be between these ; accordingly the others, as if by common consent,
lay on their oars to witness the struggle, in which they took no
further part than to call on the rowers by the endearing names of “
rascal,” and "villain,”—or to beseech them, for the honour of the
particular clan or district to which they belonged, not to allow
their rivals to bear away thr victory. The men, thus beholding
themselves the common gaze and spectacle of all, and roused by the
immediate emulation, made astonishing efforts. The speed of the
boats increased, and water few in sparkling fragments before them,
and long beaded furrows of dancing bubbles and foam arose behind.
The oars caught the sanbbams for a moment, and Instantly plunged
into the lake again. A single will seemed to govern each crew; they
bent forward, rose and sunk on their seats, as if they were but one
individual, while, at each powerful stroke, the good boat sprung
like a race-horse to the whip. No skill was left unemployed— even
the helmsman, by a forward motion of the body at each successive
impulse, sought to increase the momentum of his vessel. Perfect
silence now succeeded to the previous tumult. The most breathless
expectation held the spectators, and an anxiety (if that could he
possible) aa great as that of the rowers themselves. They were now
fast nearing the stag; the strokes became shorter and more vigorous,
the keel almost rose out of the water at each bound; but the three
prows were still abreast, or merely wee-sawing, and no one could say
which would win the stag. As the strength, however, of the crews
seemed equal, it was probable that the superior skill of the
helmsman would decide the victory. But the safety of the noble
animal, the object of the contest, was plainly in considerable
danger, as the boats (the two outer now slightly bending their
course) bore down direct upon him, as to a common centre. The middle
boat soon became sensible of the advantageous position it occupied,
for its course required no change, and there was scarcely a
possibility of its missing the game; while the truth began to flash
on the other two, that their course must be (no matter how little)
longer than that of the middle boat, and that they might wholly
overshoot the stag, unless they could gain something on their rival.
Nov was the situation of the latter without its counterbalancing
difficulties. The increased and almost desperate exertions of the
two outer boats threatened, by the convergence of their course, to
leave no room for the play of its oars, while the absolute necessity
of not injuring the stag (Mr. O’Connell being quite despotic on that
point) seemed to demand slackened exertions, when the most vigorous
were necessary for success. The helmsman of this boat was an old,
hard-featured man. During the whole race, he showed no sign of
emotion, nor did one anxious look at his rivals betray a fear, or
damp the courage of his men. He sat quite composed, as if he had no
interest whatever in the race; but the quick, steady glance with
which he measured his distance from the stag, and from his
antagonists, showed this was but the coolness of self-possession. On
he drove, right upon the stag, until the angry wave, that foamed
before his prow, rushed up the animal's side. “Mind, Dan’l,” he
uttered to the man at the bow, in a stern, quick tone; the other
boats at the same instant were pulling headlong to out him off from
the prey—he was within two feet of the stag—all thought him mad; and
a general exclamation of rage burst from the multitude at his
conduct;—“the oars!’ said he to the crew, taking not the least
notice of the shout; and at the word, an instant turn of the helm,
which the boat in her extreme velocity obeyed like a child, sent him
with shipped oars between the stag’s muzzle and his right-hand
antagonist; but as he passed, Daniel, who was standing ready in the
bow, jumped upon the animal’s back, and secured the victory, amidst
acclamations that rent the sky. A handkerchief was then bound over
the stag’s eyes; he was placed (with several men attached to him) in
the conquering boat, and conveyed to Mr. O’Connell.
Thus ended the stag hunt. It was only manly that the animal, which
afforded so much amusement, was that night restored to his native
mountains.
There was a public dinner to" be given at Innisfallen; but as the
hour fixed on was late, it seemed pleasanter to stay the rage of our
stomachs with a small dejeunS in the intermediate time. Accordingly,
we turned into a calm, cool, little bay> just beyond the point of
Glennd, and shaded, by an arbutus-covered island, from the western
sun. The1 place we chose you'll grant to be beautiful. A broad ledge
of rock projected almost horizontally over the lake. One half was
covered with thin moss; over the other half rushed, in a sheet of
silver, a furious little stream, called Screachogue, i. e. “The
Brawler," and fell into the lake with innumerable tinklings. Our
boat lay on deep water, with her head against the rock, and showed,
where her shadow fell, a sparkling bottom of fine sand. A red
romantic-looking path led up the mountains, through young oaks,
hazels, and woodbines. The spirit of adventure at once seized us.
Leaving the boatmen to arrange the dinner, and seats for it, viz., a
large stone, or a well-folded cloak, or a gentleman's coat, perhaps,
neatly moulded into a round shape; we set off. Indeed, of all places
and times, I remember none better fitted for soft, low, sweet
converse with a beautiful woman. The delicious softness of the
evening that melted the heart into its own voluptuous languor, the
perfume of the air almost oppressive by its richness; the gen., tie
lapping of the waves, the modest solicitation, as it were, of love;
the upward, tangled, beautiful path that compelled her to lean for
sup. port, and the huge mountain that towered above all, and fiung
his black and giant shadow across the waters, irresistibly soothed
the soul into confidence, while they, at the same time, impressed
the necessity of protection. Some, however, soon sat down quite
exhausted ; some stopped to look through the trees upon the lake,
and I will not swear that other objects were not looked at about the
same time; while shouts high above in the air from mounting spirits
proclaimed their ambitious souls. It may be laid down as a maxim, or
rather as two axioms, that real love passages are very short, and
that lovers dine. In accordance with these profound reflections, the
whole party was assembled at the dejeuns in ten minutes, and in
nearly the same time the dejeuns had unaccountably disappeared. Our
boat now steered for the Cascade, and next for the Brown Island,
intending to surprise Innisfallen by this circuitous route ; and
here the magnificence of the evening arrested and amazed us.
The lake is situated in an elliptical valley, lying from east to
west, which is enclosed on the south side by a chain of mountains,
about twenty or thirty miles in length; and on the north, by
successive ranges of hills, that include every species of
cultivation between them and the lake; from their own bleak
bitterness, (though studded occasionally with green fields,) to the
handsome villa on the banks of the latter. The mountains, at their
western extremity, break into a cluster of low blue hills. Just
beyond these, the broad and burning orb of the sun was now resting
on the edge of the horizon, and, having wrapped them in a misty
palpable glory, filled the whole valley with a vast flood of golden
light, which turned every thing within it, islands, rocks, woods,
and houses, to enchantment. The very windows of Coltsman’s Castle,
which faced the west, assumed the most gorgeous appearance; the
richest colours melting successively into one another, and its whole
front flickering with blood red and purple splendours. On the north
side, the country was one sheet of beauty and gladness; hut
conceive, on such a range of mountains, the effect of this glorious
evening tide, ever changing with the distance, and ever
magnificent—bathing Toniies in yellow radiance— kindling every rock
on Turk—mantling the broad slopes of Mangerton in mellower light,
and playing on the distant Paps with a faint and dying lustre. Of
all, however, Innisfallen, which was before us, seemed the most
perfect wonder. We gazed on it in astonishment. The whole undulating
line of its beautiful shores—every sock, tree, and object, nay the
very air about it, was touched with magic; and from the ground up to
the top of the trees, it seemed filled with a flood of molten gold.
I never beheld a scene at once so grand and beautiful. By degrees it
faded away; the light gradually yielding to darkness, and ascending,
until none but the mountain heads retained a gleam of the preceding
splendour. As soon as it was fairly past, away with us to
Innisfallen; and, as at “the Brawler,* I had the unutterable
misfortune of being seized by Miss , (a brevet matron, but who had
been long entitled to full rank,) as asthmatic as her own lap-dog,
(which was now in the last stage of high feeding, the vital lamp
being reduced in him, by fat, to the slenderness of a rushlight,)
Fortune seemed determined to reward me by placing me at dinner next
Mrs. —, and her husband at least four tables off. Imagine a very
pretty Irish woman, with taste, talents, accomplishments,—add
moreover to these a throat of dazzling whiteness, shaded by dark
gauze,—eyes, to which a slight short-sightedness gave a softer
charm,—a voice wasted in sweet murmurs,—and you have the outline of
the picture. Omit not, however, to place in the foreground of this
sketch on your fancy, “a wild sweet-briary fence,* such as Moore
sings of; for a sort of instinct told one that, within the circle
all these agreeable qualities that Mrs. possessed, sat a haughty
spirit, which it were as well not to rouse to anger or suspicion. |