The Parish of Rosskeen is
situated on the northern shore of the Cromarty Firth, along which it
extends a distance of five miles from the east end of Saltburn to the
River Alness. It is wedge-shaped, 18 miles long from south-east to
north-west, and about 5 miles broad near the east end. It comprises an
area of 54 square miles, of which about 15 square miles are arable. The
lower part of the parish is partially flat and partially undulating. The
soil is of average richness in the lower portions, but poor in some of
the higher portions, especially where the cultivation extends to from
600 feet to 1000 feet above the sea level. The inland portions are
hilly, some of the eminences reaching heights of 2300 feet. A valley
stretches along the south-west side a length of 15 miles, the first
seven miles from the sea called the valley of the Alness, the next 4
miles Strathrusdale, and the remaining 4 miles Glackshellach. Nearly
parallel to the valley of the Alness along the north side of the parish
is the valley of the Achnacloich water, extending to about 6 miles.
In the beginning of the
present century the area of arable land was comparatively small. In the
possession of new proprietors and industrious tenants, however, rapid
changes have taken place, especially within the last forty years, since
Sir Alexander Matheson became the principal heritor. Miles which were
then covered with boulders, scrub, and bog are now clothed with verdure,
and numerous hill-sides are covered with flourishing woods.
From remains found in
mosses, there are evidences of extensive forests having existed in the
valleys centuries ago.
In one place in
particular, called “a’ Chrannich,” the wooded place, on the Estate of
Ardross, large logs of bog oak are turned up in peat-cutting, a piece of
which, sent to the Forestry Exhibition in Edinburgh in 1884, was awarded
a certificate.
The topography is
principally descriptive and historical. I refrain from giving the
derivation of Rosskeen, as I am not quite sure of it. A few of the names
of the places may be interesting. Commencing at the lower end of the
parish, and following successively iuward, we have to begin with
Saltburn. “Alltan-an-t-Saluinn,” a small stream at whose mouth smugglers
used to dispose of salt to the inhabitants when it was taxed : hence the
name.
Invergordon, named after
the first of the Gordons who were proprietors of the place. The Gaelic
name is “Ruthanach-breachie,” the little speckled point. In the end of
the last century, where Invergordon now stands there were only three
houses, occupied by the ferryman and two crofters. The neighbouring farm
is called Inverbreakie, the speckled Inver. The hand of the improver has
so changed the face of the country here that the “Inver” cannot be
certified, but is supposed to have been north of Invergordon Castle,
where a small stream entered a swamp, now all arable.
Kincraig.—“Ceann-na-Creige,”
the end of the rock. This name must have been translated, as there is no
conspicuous rock at the place.
Newmore.—“An-fheith-mhor,”
the big bog, which still exists at the south side of this estate, and
from which the estate derives its name. •
Obsdale.—“Ob-an-dnil,”
the bay in the flat. The bay and the flat are still there, but the name
is now changed to Dal-more, the large flat, and the village to
Bridge-End of Alness.
Alness, of old spelled
“Anes.” The name of this river in the charter granted by James VI. to
Sir Robert Munro of Fowlis in 1608 is “Affron,” a corruption of “ M’ath
bhron,” my next sorrow. The tradition is that a woman crossing the river
in a flooded state on a temporary foot-bridge (put up for their own
convenience by the masons who were erecting the first stone bridge
there) with a child in her bosom and leading another child by the hand,
let slip the child she was leading; calling out “Och mo bhron,” och my
sorrow, and in her attempt to save the child that was being carried
away, let the other fall into the water, calling out “Och m’ath bhron”—Och
my next sorrow. Both children were drowned., and from this circumstance
the river got the name. I have read several derivations of “Alness,’ but
none of them is correct. I feel convinced the following is the correct
derivation :—
The River in the last 600
or 700 yards of its course divided itself into several branches,
somewhat in the form of a delta, forming one or more islands. The old
district road, of which there still remains a portion, passed below
Teaninich House, and there being no bridge, the river had to be forded.
Thus we have the “Ath,” ford, and “Innis” the Island, naturally changing
to Athnish, corrupted to “Anes,” and furthur corrupted into Alness.
Nonakiln. — “Nini-cil. ”
The church dedicated to St Ninian.
Millcraig (of old and in
the Crown charter “ Oulkenzie”)— “Cuil-Choinnich.” The origin of this
name is worth noticing. Malcolm Ceann-mor in his war with Macbeth
solicited the assistance of a chief, Donald, from the foot of the River
Roe in Ulster (hence Donald Munro), and for his services received a
grant of the lands from the Peffery at Dingwall to the Alness river,
extending northwards to beyond 'Wyvis, still called Ferrindonald, but
having too little land to supply all his followers, he fened a portion
on the east side of the River Alness. He then got them all supplied but
one —“Coinneach Ard,” tall Kenneth. Kenneth of course could not be left
landless, and in consulting his assistants in dividing the land, he said
“C’ait am faigh sinn cuil do Choinneach,” where shall we get a nook for
Kenneth? A suitable nook was found. The name “Cuil Choinnich” still
sticks to the corner, and Kenneth is honoured by the Estate being named
after his corner.
There are a good many
people in the district of the name of Aird, who are said to be
descendants of Kenneth.
Kvocknavib.—“Cnoc an
fheith bliuidhe,” tliehill of the yellow bog. The bog is now drained,
but yellow fog still grows there.
Achnacloich, named after
a large granite boulder. There is a loch here in which, when low, the
remains of a Crannaig or lake dwelling can be seen, and about 200 yards
east of the loch the castle of the lairds of Achnacloich stood, now all
removed except a portion of the dungeon. Hugh Ross of Achnacloich got a
Charter of the lands of Tollie from Charles I. in 1635. Ardross Castle
now stands on the site of Tollie House—“Cnoc an doire leathain,” “The
hill of the broad oak clump.” This name indicates that oak trees grew
here, and at an elevation of over 1200 feet. On the south-east face of
the same hill there can be traced the remains of a croft at the
elevation of over 1100 feet. Old men told me that 80 years ago the rigs
could be traced. Now, except in good seasons, we cannot get corn to come
to maturity at 600 feet, so much has the climate changed, and so much
for the physical knowledge of a few of our legislators and (though
perhaps well meaning) blind leaders of the blind.
Preas-a’-mhadaidh, the
wolfs bush. The name of a clump of hazel and birch bushes which was
removed about thirty-four years ago. It was situated about
three-quarters of a mile north-east of Ardross Castle. The last wolf in
Scotland was killed here. When I was a young lad I got the information
of the killing of this wolf with that degree of freshness which
convinced me of the circumstance not having been far back. The story is
that an old maid at four o’clock on a New-Year’s morning going to a
neighbour’s house for the loan of a girdle to cook a bannock for
herself, took a path through this clump. At a sharp curve in the path,
for some natural cause she stooped. On her return by the same path she
suddenly espied the. wolf scraping the ground where she stooped, and in
her desperation struck him with the edge of the girdle in the small of
the back, and bolted to the house she came from. The alarm was raised,
and all who could wield bludgeons or other weapons of destruction
hastened to the place, when they found the brute sprawling, trying to
escape. He was soon dispatched, and thus “the last of his race” in
Scotland ignominiously fell under the hands of an old woman. As far as I
could trace, this occurred about the beginning of the last century. She
was the sister of a man whose great-great-grandson is now employed as a
carpenter at Ardross. A hill about four miles north-west of this place
is called “Cnoc-a’-mhadaidh,” where the wolf had his den.
Glaicksiiellach, the
saucby glen. Not a tree or bush exists here now, and even the heather is
stinted. There are several interesting reminiscences connected with this
glen. On the ridge south of this glen, which forms the march between the
parishes of Rosskeen and Alness, there is a conspicuous piece of Schist
rock in situ cropping up, called “Clach-nam-ban,” the stone of the
women. The tradition is, that before the Reformation, four women were in
the depth of winter proceeding from Glencalvie, in the parish of
Kincardine, to the Roman Catholic Chapel at Kildermorie, in the parish
of Alness, and carrying with them bundles of hemp. When near this rock
they were overtaken by a severe stcrm of snow and drift. They took
shelter in a cleft of the rock and perished there Their bodies were not
found till the snow melted several weeks after. The party in search of
them were led to the spot by seeing one of the bundles of hemp suspended
from a stick which the women found there, and erected as a guide to
their friends, who, they knew, would search for their remains.
At the foot of the same
hill, north-east of this rock, is to be seen a small green patch called
“Achadh-a’-bhad-dhuibh,” the field of the black clump, which, about 90
years ago was a little croft, occupied by an old woman, the solitary
resident in the glen. At the time above stated, in the month of July, a
man passing through the glen observed something like a bundle of clothes
in the potato plot. Curiosity led him to see what it was, and there he
found the old woman dead. It would appear that she had no food, and went
to try if she could find a few tubers to the potato shaws to appease her
hunger. A sort of a coffin and a rude bier were made, and a few people
collected to bury her, but going along the hill-side to the place of
burial at Kildermorie, the insufficiency of both coffin and bier shewed
itself by the body falling through to the ground. My informant, who was
there, told me that they turned the coffin upside down and put the body
in again, adding “ people were not so proud then as they are now; they
carried stumps of nails in their pockets, and as many nails were found
among the party as made the box secure.”
On the side of the glen,
opposite to this croft, is to be seen a portion of the hut, which was
occupied by a herd employed by the Ardross tenants when they had this
glen as common pasture ground. This man was a notable character, and a
careful herd, for he always returned from the grazing the same number of
cattle as he got to it. Somehow a few of them would have changed colour,
but animals of the same changed colour would be missing in other
quarters, perhaps 20 miles or more away. I heard a great many anecdotes
about this man, but I refrain from mentioning more than two or throe,
lest I should offend, and these only to show that the man had natural
abilities, which, it is to regretted, he had not the opportunity of
applying for good:—
The harvest of 1817 was
late, and the crops a failure. The following year many felt the scarcity
of food. Money was scarce also among the poor. Our friend, the herd, was
among the sufferers, and having heard that a well-to-do farmer, residing
a few miles off, had meal to dispose of, he went to ask the farmer for a
boll till lie would be able to pay. “I have meal to dispose of,” said
the farmer, “but should I give you, you will never pay me.” “I will,”
said the herd, “the first money I can lay my hands upon will be yours.”
“Well,” said the farmer (who was noted for cuteness), “if you tell me
the cleverest piece of handiwork you committed, I’ll trust you.” “Good,”
said the herd, “the smartest turn I ever did was to relieve yourself of
a stot, and sell him to you.” “Never,” said the farmer; but said the
herd, “don’t you remember a black stot belonging to you having gone
amissing?” “Yes.” “And you remember of me selling to you thereafter a
speckled stot1?’’ “Yes.” “Well, it was the same animal.” “I’ll give you
the meal for nothing if you tell me how you did the trick.” “Done,” said
the herd. “The stot happened to come to my byre. I took a few bunches of
salt herrings out of the brine and bound them to the animal’s body. In a
few days the black hair under the herrings rotted out, and on their
removal white hair grew instead.” The herd was not asked to pay for the
meal.
Our friend on one
occasion passed through the East Coast of Sutherlandshire, and on his
way home took a fancy to a 6ne Highland cow with a docked tail. He
managed to conceal himself and the cow for a day or two, till, as he
supposed, the search would be over, and then took the road to the Meikle
Ferry, but before doing so cut a tail from a dried hide he fell in with
somewhere, and neatly bound it to the stump of the living cow. He
entered the ferryboat with the cow, and just as the boat was to start, a
man sprung in who closely scrutinised the cow and said, “I lost a cow
three days ago, and were it not that that cow has a tail (mine had only
a stump), I would say she is mine.” “But the cow is mine,” said the
herd. The man approached the cow and again said, “were it not she has a
tail I would swear she is mine.” The herd saw that matters were getting
rather too hot for him, and just as the man was about laying his hand on
the tail, the herd took out his knife, whipped off the tail above the
joining, and threw it into the sea. “There she is now a bleeding
tailless cow, and swear is she yours.” Of course the man could not, for
the evidence was gone.
On another occasion, when
hard up, on his way to the Muir of Ord Market, he took under his care a
tine colt he found grazing on the Novar parks. The animal was soon sold
at a fair price and paid. To oblige the buyer he agreed to see it
stabled and fed; but while the buyer was regaling himself in the company
of his friends, he slipped away with the colt to Inverness and sold it
again. He managed to get the animal again under his care, and by
daylight next morning it was quietly grazing on the park from which it
was taken, without any one noticing its absence.
Our hero died in 1855 at
the great age of 101. I saw him a few years before he died—of middle
height, straight and active, considering the many wintery storms he had
stood.
Further west in
Glaekshellach, on the border of the road made there recently, is an
enormous granite boulder, so shaped at one end that it has been taken
advantage of to form the wall and roof of one side of a shelter stable.
About the middle of last century a man named Alexander Campbell, better
known as “An t-Iomharaeh mor,” big Maciver, while going through the glen
on his way to Glenealvie, where he resided all his life time, was
overtaken by a severe storm of drifted snow. Fearing that he might lose
his way, he sat beside this boulder for twenty-four hours, till the
storm abated—his dress being the kilt and his covering a plaid. This man
was born in 1699. The year of his death is not accurately known, but is
supposed to have been 1822 or 1823, in the month of May. In 1819 Lord
Ashburton, who rented the shootings of Rosehall, in Sutherlandshire,
heard about him and invited him to Rosehall. He proudly accepted of the
invitation, and arrived at the shooting lodge between six and seven
o’clock in the morning, after having walked over ten miles across the
hills. His Lordship was so much taken with Campbell that he gave him a
present of 120 newly coined shillings —a shilling for every year of his
age. Campbell was greatly elated both by the present and the attention
paid to him. He carefully stored the shillings to meet the expense of
his funeral. He could easily walk forty miles a day, after passing his
hundredth year, without much fatigue. I saw his grandson, who died at
the age of ninety-two, and his great-grandson is an Ardross crofter.
Archaeology.—From its
Archaeological remains the parish appears to have been early peopled.
Large sepulchral cairns were numerous, many have been wholly removed,
but of a few there are still preserved the outer rings and principal
centre stones.
Dalmore Cairn.—Commencing
at Dalmore we have in a field there the cist measuring about 3˝ by 2˝ by
2 feet of one which was removed about 1810. It was about 60 feet
diameter, and 15 feet high. What remains of it is now enclosed by a
stone wall.
Millcraig Cairx.—The next
we come to is on the farm of Millcraig, about a mile north of
liridge-Knd of Alness. Four large central stones—one measuring 9 feet by
6 feet, the outer circle and a considerable quantity of small stones
remain. The diameter is 76 feet. No living person saw it entire, so that
its height is not known.
Knocknavie Cairn.—A mile
further up on the west shoulder of Knocknavie are the remains of what
was once a large cairn. From the existing stones it would appear that
there were two cists, each measuring about 9 feet long by 2| feet broad.
The diameter was 74 feet, and the height about 20 feet. This cairn was
removed in 1826 to build a neighbouring march dyke between the estates
of Millcraig and Culcairn. To come to an amusing incident connected with
the removal of this cairn we must go back a couple of centuries, and
introduce an historical faet. In August 1633, Sir Robert Gordon, uncle
of the then Earl of Sutherland, was acting as referee adjusting the
march between the estates of Hugh Ross, the laird of Achnacloich, and of
the laird of Newmore, when a party of Argyllshire marauders, who were
under the leadership of one Ewen Aird, were seized for depredations
committed by them. Brown, in his “History of the Highlands,” Vol. I.,
306, states— “In their retreat they destroyed some of the houses in the
high parts of Sutherland, and on entering Ross, they laid waste some
lands belonging to Hutcheon Ross of Achnacloich. These outrages
occasioned an immediate assemblage of the inhabitants of that part of
the country, Who pursued these marauders and took ten of them prisoners.
The prisoners were brought to Achnacloich, where Sir Robert Gordon was
at the time deciding a dispute about the marches between Achinloich and
Neamore. After some consultation about what was to be done with the
prisoners, it was resolved that they should be sent to the Earl of
Sutherland who was in pursuit of them. On the prisoners being sent to
him, the Earl assembled the principal gentlemen of Ross and Sutherland
at Dornoch, where Ewen Aird and his accomplices were tried before a
jury, convicted and executed at Dornoch, with the exception of two young
boys who were dismissed. The Privy Council not only approved of what the
Earl of Sutherland had done, but they also sent a commission to him and
the Earl of Seaforth, and to Hutcheon Ross of Achnacloich.”
To what extent the Laird
of Achnacloich exercised his power as commissioner is not recorded, but
one traditional case is notable. He occupied a large portion of
Glackshellach as a sheiling. About two years after he got his
commission, two wayfarers entered the hut which belonged to him in the
glen, and being hungry asked of the dairymaid a little food for which
they offered payment. She refused, whereon one of the men took
possession of a cheese, leaving as much money as he considered it worth.
The dairymaid despatched a messenger to the laird to give information of
what she called the robbery. The men were pursued, overtaken at
Contullich, in the parish of Alness, brought to Achnacloich, summarily
tried, hanged on the top of Knocknavie, and buried in the Cairn above
referred to. We now pass on to 1826, when the cairn was being removed. A
youth of about 20 years, employed at the removal of the cairn, on
pulling out a stone from the face, let down a large fall, when out
rolled a grinning skull. The youth was horrified, and leaving his horse
ran off to his father, who was emptying a load about 200 yards away from
the cairn. The father, who was a plucky fellow, castigated the son for
his cowardice in running away from a bone, but on the two of them
returning to the cairn, the father received no less a shock than the
son, for there was the skull with its upturned empty eye sockets in a
state of vibration, put in motion by a field mouse that got jammed among
the nasal bones. Information was given to the managers of the
neighbouring estates, who came the following day, and had all the bones
removed and buried close by the cairn. These were the bones of the two
men who were hanged by the Laird of Achnacloich, the finding of which
verifies the tradition. The man who got the first fright is still alive,
and is my informant.
An incident in connection
with the settling of the march between Achnacloich and Newmore is worth
mentioning. A large boulder, conveniently situated, was fixed upon as
one of the march stones (it is to be seen on the margin of the road from
Achnacloich to Tain), and is still the march stone. Both parties had a
host of old and young men accompanying them to point out the old marches
and to bear in remembrance the new. On the side of the laird of
Achnacloich was a smart boy, to whom the laird said, “Will you remember
this to be the march stone” The boy said he would. “Put your hand flat
upon it,” said the laird. The boy did so, and, before he was aware, the
laird drew his sword, and cut off the boy’s fingers, saying, “You will
remember it now,” and he did remember it, and told it to others who told
it to succeeding generations; and the stone is called “Clach ceann na
meoir,” the stone of the finger ends, to this day.
Dalnavie.—The next we
mention, though not a cairn, was an interesting place of sepulture.
Whilst trenching waste land on the farm of Dalnavie in 1847, the workmen
came upon a number of urns at a uniform depth of about sixteen inches.
They wore surrounded by a low circular turf fence about eighteen yards
diameter. In the centre was a large one, which would contain about a
gallon, and a beautifully formed stone axe was found beside it. The
central urn was surrounded by fifteen other urns, which would contain
about lialf-a-gallon each. Through carelessness the urns were all
destroyed. I understand the axe was sent to the Antiquarian Museum in
Edinburgh.
Stittenham.—About
half-a-mile north of Dalnavie a large cairn was removed in 1847-48. It
was 108 feet diameter, and 20 feet high. In September 1880 a search was
made for the cist, when a very interesting discovery was made. Having
been engaged in the search, I am in a position to give a correct
description of it.—
A grave was dug in hard
boulder clay 12 feet long, 7 feet 9 inches wide, and 8 feet deep,
rounded at the corners. The whole of the bottom was covered with a layer
of flags, on which was formed a cist of thick flags, 8 feet long, 2˝
feet broad, and 2 feet deep. The covers were large—one weighing about
half a ton. Around and above the cist was filled with stones to a height
of about 5 feet from the bottom. From the stones to the natural surface
of the ground was filled with a portion, the clay turned out. Over this,
and extending about 6 feet beyond the cutting all round, was a layer of
tenaceous blue clay in the form of a low mound, 2 feet thick in the
centre, and over the blue clay a layer of black earth 18 inches thick.
From the form of the cist it is clear that the body was laid at full
length in it. The body was wholly decomposed; only a small quantity of
carbonate of lime and black animal matter remained adhering to the
bottom flags. A few crumbs of decayed oak having been found at the head
and foot of the cist suggests that the body was encased in a coffin. The
only relics found were three beautifully formed arrow-heads, and a thin
circular piece of shale about two inches diameter, apparently a personal
ornament. About 150 yards south-west of this cairn, the workmen employed
at trenching the moor in 1847 found what was evidently a smelting
furnace, and among the debris turned out two beautifully formed sets of
moulds for casting bronze spear-heads. They are preserved in a cabinet
in Ardross Castle. The material is steatite, of which a vein exists in
the banks of a burn flowing by the Ardross Estates Office.
Knockfionn.—On the face
of the hill, called Knockfionn, above Easter-Ardross, there is a large
cairn, which has not been opened, and on the summit of this are the
remains of what appeared to be a small fortification of stone, said to
have been one of Fingal’s strongholds.
Mains of Arduoss.—In
1848, a large cairn, “Carn Fionn-tairneach,” on the farm of Ardross,
similar to the one at Millcraig, was wholly removed. As well as the
central cist, there were several others in the body of the cairn,
proving after burials. A number of bones in good preservation were
found, and a few flint arrow heads.
On the same farm there is
an interesting grave preserved. It is 16 feet long and 4 feet broad,
enclosed by six large flag stones —two at each side, and one at each
end. At the request of an officer of the Royal Engineers in 1876, it was
carefully opened by digging a longtitudinal trench, when it was
discovered that two bodies were buried, the one at the foot of the
other, in graves each about 7 feet long, by 2 feet broad, and only about
2 feet deep from the surface to the bottom. There are side walls about a
foot high, and a division of a foot between the two bodies. The bodies
were probably covered with flags, as disintegrated clayey slates were
turned out in digging. The only remains found were a few teeth where the
heads lay, and a thin layer of bituminous like matter, the whole length
of the graves. A few hundred yards to the west of this grave there
existed about 200 small cairns, said to have been raised over men who
fell in a battle fought there long long ago, each being buried where he
died. They have been all removed in improving the land.
The cists without cairns
discovered in the district are numerous, notably those at Dalmore
described by Mr Jolly in the “Transactions of the Antiquarian Society of
Scotland, 1878.” A group at the site of Achnacloich Castle, which
contained pottery, a group north of Achnacloich loch, which have not
been properly searched, as the tenant of the farm protested against such
sacrilege, especially because the man who discovered them in trenching
the moor immediately ran home, and kept to his bed for a couple of
months. At Baldoon, on an eminence north of the source of the
Achnacloich burn, are the remains of a cairn which, I think, has been a
small stronghold. The name “Baile-’n-duin" suggests this. The cairn was
oval, 52 feet by 42 feet. Near the centre is an elongated oval often
standing stones. It measures 16 feet long by 8 feet broad, divided into
two compartments of 8 feet each, by two standing stones, having a space
of two feet between them, evidently a door. No living person saw or
heard of this cairn being other than it now is, so that what has been
removed of it must have been done long ago. T propose to search the
floor, when, perhaps, something may be found to lead to the object of
its erection.
Clacii-a’-mheirlicii.—About
a mile and a half west of Invergordon, in a field north of the County
road, is a standing stone called “Clach-a’-mhcirlich,” the thief s
stone. There is an archaic device upon it said to resemble a portion of
Bramah’s foot.
Though a few hundred
yards beyond the march of the parish of Rosskeen, there are two
interesting cairns I would not wish to overlook. They are situated in
the valley extending from Achnacloich to Scotsburn, at Ivenrive, in the
upper part of the parish of Kilmuir. A tradition is common among the old
people of the district that in a hostile incursion of the Danes in the
ninth or tenth century, the Danes, who were put to flight by the
natives, made their final stand here, where they were all slain, hence
the name “Cearn-an-ruidhe,” the end of the chase. One of the cairns, the
most interesting of them, is now nearly removed, but a description can
be given of what it was. About thirty years ago the crofter on whose
land the cairn stood had his attention attracted towards it by his dog
chasing a rabbit thither. The dog’s persistent barking at a hole near
the top of the cairn induced the man to go to the dog’s assistance, and
after removing a few stones with the intention of getting hold of the
rabbit, he discovered a vault, but superstitious awe prevented him from
prosecuting his search alone. He got the assistance of a canny neighbour
who joined in a private exploration, expecting a lucky find which would
keep them in comfort during the remainder of their lives. They removed
the stones from above the vault, and at the depth of a few feet, came
upon a flag stone; which, on being removed, made an opening large enough
for them to get down. Their find was only a layer of black earth. A man
who frequently visited the vault gave me a description of it. It was
about nine or ten feet long, over five feet wide, had side walls of
large flagstones, five feet high, the roof formed of flagstones
corbelling inwards and finishing with large flags closing in both sides
at a height of about eight feet from the floor.
Such a discovery as this
was not, in the opinion of the two worthies (now both dead), a thing
that ought to be divulged, and for a space of eight years it was found
to be a very convenient malt deposit and whisky warehouse, and might
have been so still had not Preventive Officer Munro, and his assistants,
discovered the “bothy” in a naturally formed cairn in the face of the
hill, north of the farm offices of Inchandown.
Sixteen years ago a
portion of the cairn was removed to build the dyke in the march between
the estates of Newmore and Kindeace. The vault was exposed to the public
about twelve years ago, when stones were removed to build a new house
for the tenant who now occupies the land. When I visited the place a
month ago, the weather was so frosty that I could not search the floor
for remains, which I believe are still there, for I understand no search
was made. In the remaining portion of this cairn there is apparantly
another similar vault with the roof fallen in. Two other cists measuring
about 4 feet by 3 feet, and 2 feet deep, formed in the ordinary way of
single flags, are exposed, one at the north side of the removed vault,
and the other at the east end of the unopened vault. The diameter of the
cairn was 80 feet, and the height about 15 feet. Some of the remaining
stones are of large size, one in an upright position of mica schist
measures 7 feet 6 inches by 5 feet and 2 feet thick, and another, which
apparently formed part of the roof of the unopened vault, of granite,
measures 7 feet by 5 feet, and one foot thick.
The other cairn is
situated about 150 yards east of the one described above, and is
supposed to cover the remains of the common soldiers who fell in the
battle. No portion of it has been removed. It is oblong, measuring 70
yards long, 22 yards broad at the east end, 14 yards broad at the west
end, and about an average of 8 feet high.
Smuggling.—Many humorous
stories are told of the smugglers in the upland parts of the parish. I
give two as examples.—
About seventy years ago
two worthies, John Holm and Sandy Ross (Uaine), who resided a short
distance east of the Strathrusdale river, went to enjoy a day with a
friend who had his bothy in full work at the west side of the river.
After having partaken of their friend’s good cheer as much as made them
tellingly affectionate towards each other, they left for home. On coming
to the river, which was slightly flooded, John said to Sandy, “ Sandy,
as I am the youngest and strongest, stand you on that stone, and come on
my back, that I may carry you over dry.” Sandy obeyed, but John took
only three steps when he fell into the water, and before they recovered
their footing, both were wet to the skin. “I am sorry I fell,” said
John, “but come you to the stone again, and get on my back, that I may
take you over dry.”Sandy went to the stone and mounted again, but they
proceeded half-a-dozen yards only when the mishap was repeated. John
again expressed regret, and insisted on the attempt being made the third
time, which, fortunately, proved successful, and John, in throwing Sandy
from off his back, said, “ I am glad, Sandy, after all our mishaps, that
I took you over dry!”
My other story is an
occurcnce of fifty-five years back. The tmiuggler was Donald Ross (Mac
Eachain), whodiedin Strath rusdalc about twelve years ago. Tie had his
bothy at the base of a rock on the north side of Kildermorie loch. Two
young gentleman— one of whom went for the first time to see a bothy at
work—paid Donald a visit. As they were approaching the bothy, Donald,
always on the alert when at work, espied them, and suspecting them to be
questionable characters, moved out cautiously to reconnoitre.
Recognising one, he rushed out, with his bonnet under his arm, welcoming
and praising them in the most flattering terms, finishing with, “Such
two pretty young gentlemen I never saw; come down from your horses till
I see who is the prettiest.” They obeyed, and then Donald gave the
finishing touch by saying, “You are both so pretty, I cannot say who is
the prettiest.” During the few hours speut by the party in the bothy,
Donald felt himself so elated that he drank so much of the warm stream
flowing from the worm as to make him top heavy. To get him cannily to
his house, it was proposed that he should be mounted behind one of the
young gentlemen. This done, and Donald left without side supports, he
lost his balance and fell. He w*is .ut up again with the same result,
but in his second fall his head came against a rock, which brought him a
little to his senses. Cautiously coming to his feet, and looking up to
the rider, he said, “May all good attend us; truly, Mr Munro, we ought
to be thankful that the ground is soft.”
Ecclesiastical.—Before
the Reformation there were three places of worship, and three priests
officiating in the parish. One at Posskeen, one at Nonakiln, and one at
Ardross. After the Reformation the three wore made into one charge, the
minister being appointed to officiate two consecutive Sundays at
Rosskeen, one at Nonakiln, and once a month as might be convenient for
him at Ardross. The chapel at Rosskeen was condemned in 1829, and a new
church was in 1832 built. Underneath the back wing of this chapel, the
Caclboll family built their burial vault, which has been renovated and
beautified by the present proprietor two years ago. Before the
suppression of smuggling in the parish, this vault was frequently the
abode of spirits as well as of the dead. The beadle, who had charge of
the key, was sworn to secrecy, and the vault converted to a warehouse.
The church-yard is near the sea, a stream passes by it, into which, at
high water, the tide flows deep enough to float an ordinary boat. Sales
were made, the warehouse emptied during night, and the cargo delivered
along the coast before daylight.
The chapel at Nonakiln
ceased to be used as a place of worship in 1713. An incident in
connection with the last service held in it is illustrative of the
tenacity with which superstition still sticks to a few of us.—
The story is that the
farm manager at Invergordon Castle was frequently annoyed by a bull,
belonging to a neighbouring farmer, being found frequently trespassing
on the Invergordon lands. At last the manager threatened that the next
time the animal would be found straying there he would be shot. On a
Sunday in December 1713, the manager on his way to the Chapel at
Nonakiln, saw the bull on the forbidden ground. He returned to his
house, loaded his gun, and shot the animal. He then proceeded to the
church. Before he arrived the service commenced, and as he was lifting
the latch of the church door, part of the roof gave way, but did not
fall in. The worshippers were all alarmed, and a few of them hurt in
their exit. One of my informants, who is still living, wound up the tale
with this expression, savouring of superstition—“Cha leigeadh an Eaglais
a steach e airson gun do mharbh e tarbli air la na Sabaid.” (“The church
would not allow him to enter because he killed a bull on the Sabbath
day.”) His idea is that the sacred edifice would not sanction the man’s
presence because he broke the Sabbath. The roof fell in the following
year. The west gable and a portion of the side walls are still
remaining.
The chapel at Ardross
must, to an archaeologist, be the most interesting of the three. It was
situated on the farm now called Achandunie, and known by the name of “Seapal-dail-a’-mhic.”
It has been wholly removed, except a portion of the foundation. From
what remains the ground area is found to measure 42 feet by 24 feet. The
interest connected with it is, that it is placed in the centre of a
Druidical place of worship, measuring 112 feet by 86 feet. Only two of
the stones remain standing. They are of sandstone split out of one
block, and measuring 5 feet 6 inches high, 3 feet 8 inches broad, and 1
foot thick. A few large stones are lying covered by the debris of the
ruins, the rest have been removed. This fact confirms the account of the
early Culdee Missionaries, having been in the habit of meeting the
people at Druidical places of worship, who, after they were converted to
Christianity, built churches in which to worship at the Druidical
standing stones; and this is the reason why so many of our churches in
the Highlands are to this day known as “An clachan," from the standing
stones.
There are only two other
Druidical circles now in the parish, one at Stittenham House, and the
other at the west end of Strathrusdale. In each the throe concentric
circles can be traced, but only a few of the stones remain.
The people were very wild
and lawless in those times. I have collected many anecdotes about them,
but as my paper is already too long I will finish with a few sentences
about the Episcopal Minister of the Parish. His name was John Mackenzie,
better known as “Iain Breac,” brother of the first Mackenzie of Ardross,
who was son of the laird of Kildun near Dingwall. Mr John Mackenzie was
appointed curate in 1664. He conformed in 1689 after the Revolution, and
lived till January or February 1714, a month or two after the chapel of
Nonakiln was deserted. The religious instruction of his flock gave him
little concern. Aftei the dismissal of the congregation almost every
Sunday at Nonakiln, a fair was held for the disposal of cattle, harness,
implements of tillage, &c. The curate mingled with the people at these
fairs, and occasionally entered into their games. The most noteworthy
record about him is that he was so strong as to lift a firlot measure
full of barley (1˝ bushels) on his roof. His successor, Mr Daniel
Beaton, who was translated from Ardersier to the parish in March 1717,
was in every respect a contrast. He was so small in stature that he is
generally spoken of as “Am Beutanach beag,” but he was a sincere
Christian, an industrious worker, and a gospel preacher; and before many
years of his incumbency passed, the Parish was to a large extent
civilized, His memory is still fragrant among pious old people. |