I.
PROM what I could learn at home of the
position of my countrymen who had crossed the Atlantic of their
own free will, as well as of those who had been driven away from
their native land by the cruelty of a few of the Highland lairds
of a past generation, I was led to believe that they occupied a
much better position, in the New World, than those who remained at
home. I could never, however, believe that the difference was so
great as it really is, until I have now been able to judge for
myself, from actual contact with them, and personal experience of
their comparative comforts and freedom from petty tyranny which
they enjoy. I have now passed through the greater part of Nova
Scotia, and have met, in the counties of Pictou and Antigonish, in
the Island of Cape Breton, and elsewhere, specimens of Highland
men and women—many of 'whose ancestors have been evicted and
hounded in a semi-naked and starving state from the Highlands of
Scotland—who will bear more than a favourable comparison with the
very best specimens of the race at home. In physique, taking them
all over, they are superior to those of any district that I am
acquainted with in what all here still take a pride in calling
"The Old Country." In general intelligence they at least equal,
while in genuine warm-heartedness, manly sentiment, and open,
free, Highland hospitality, they are far in advance of the general
run of those of their countrymen who occupy the same position as
they themselves did before they left home. True, they are in more
favourable circumstances, and therefore in a far better position,
and better able to exhibit these characteristics of the fine race
from which they sprung. But I cannot for the life of me see why,
nor can I conscientiously advocate that my brother Highlanders
should continue to remain at home in a servile and, often, in a
starving position, on grounds of mere sentiment and love of their
native soil, when such a country as this is open to receive them.
This part of Canada is not the best part to come to, however,
unless people have friends here ready to receive them, though tome
it appears a Paradise in many respects in comparison with the
wretched patches on which the crofter has to eke out an existence,
in most cases, in the Highlands.
It is quite true that most of those who came
out here first, before the country was broken up, endured the most
severe and cruel hardships, but these have long ago become things
of the past. For specimens of these early difficulties I must at
present refer the reader to the Aberdeen Daily Free Press, where I
am able to give a more complete account of the history of early
emmigration and the present position of these provinces than the
exigencies of space permits of in the Celtic Magazine. As I work
my way to Upper Canada, I shall give an account of the richer
districts in that quarter, and I trust to be of some service in
directing poor and neglected Highlanders at home to places where
they can become proprietors of the soil, and find an ample
opportunity for laying a solid foundation for the future
prosperity of themselves and their descendants. The reader is
already aware that I have taken a view of this question of
emigration, and of the Highland crofter's position, at home, which
is not shared by a good few who have his real interest at heart
quite as -much as I have. These I expect will still continue to
hold their own opinions, but, for me, having now seen with my own
eyes, ad having had an opportunity of forming, or rather
strengthening, my previous opinions by observation on the spot, I
have no hesitation in recommending the Highland crofter to keep
his eye on this side, failing better treatment at home; and
finally to come to this country in spite of such mistaken and
erroneous teachers as would advocate semi-starvation in Scotland
to comfort and affluence in a country which is, in every respect,
except in poverty and wretchedness, as Highland as his native
land.
I have taken
considerable pains to find out the feeling here, regarding the
mother country, among those who came out themselves, as well as
among their descendants, and I cannot recall a single instance in
which any of those who have settled down here on their own lands,
would wish to go back and live in the Highlands. Most, not only of
the original emigrants, but of their descendants, to whom I have
put the question, expressed a desire to see the country of their
ancestors, but the idea of going back to remain in it never
crossed their minds. I have met them throughout the Province of
Nova Scotia and in the Island of Cape Breton, who, at home, lived
as our poorest crofters do, who can now turn out in their carriage
and pair. While this is the case with not a few, hardly a single
farmer can be met with who does not keep what is here called a "waggon,"
but what is in reality a nice, light, four-wheeled machine, made
to carry two or four persons. The farmers as a class, however, are
not wealthy, but they have as much bread, potatoes, meat, butter,
cheese, and such substantial fare as any one needs to have, while
they not only grow their own wool, but in nearly all cases keep
their own looms and weave it in their respective homes into
excellent cloth. Add to all these home comforts a beautiful
climate, and the independence enjoyed by a fine race of men
naturally of a cheerful and hopeful disposition, living unmolested
by laird or factor, on their freehold possessions, and what more
can be wished for.
At the same time there is great room for improvement. Farming is
not carried, on on scientific principles; but the very reverse.
Were a system of rotation of crops introduced double the amount of
corn and cereals could be produced with half the labour. At
present, in some cases the land is left for several years under
grass, as long, in not a few instances, as eight or nine years,
while, again it is under crop for an equal length of time, thus
run to seed and all the sap taken out of it for either purpose.
This is to be accounted for mainly from the fact that the class of
people who originally emigrated from the old country to these
provinces did not belong to the farming class at home—were only
the poorest of the crofting population, who had not then the
slightest idea of farming their lots on any improved plan. When
they arrived here, and obtained their grants of 100 and 200 acres,
they set to work in rough and ready fashion, reclaiming enough to
grow all their requirements, and soon found themselves in a
position of comparative affluence. Their ambition was not high,
and finding themselves in easy and comfortable circumstances, and
in a much better position than they ever before occupied, they
naturally settled down and enjoyed themselves, quite scendants
have, to some extent I fear, followed in their wake. The
consequence is bad farming generally throughout the most Highland
sections of the province. The local Government of Nova Scotia
might, by offering prizes throughout the provinces for the best
cultivated farms, in a few years bring about a revolution among
the farmers. What can be done by such encouragement is illustrated
this very week, as I write, by the magnificent Exhibition of the
produce of the Province held in the city of Halifax, and of which
I shall have something to say on a future occasion.
Meanwhile I
shall ask the reader to accompany me in my trip through Nova
Scotia to make the acquaintance of a few of our countrymen, whose
names deserve mention, not only on account of their warm-hearted,
enthusiastic welcome, and friendly feelings to, and in favour of,
"a Highlander from home;" but on account of the excellent
positions many of them have made for themselves on this continent.
After experiencing a pretty rough passage
across the Atlantic in the steamship State of Nevada, a splendid
sea-going boat belonging to the State Line Company, navigated by
Captain Braes, an experienced, careful, and courteous sailor, I
arrived in NEW YORK On the 4th of September, just in time to see
the New York Caledonian Games, which were held on that day. Here
was an immense assemblage of about ten thousand people thoroughly
enjoying themselves, and behaving in a manner highly creditable to
the Scottish character. There was a capital sprinkling of the most
prominent Scots—fine stalwart fellows—dressed in Highland costume,
presided over by their Chief —a handsome Highlander, Nicholson by
name. I was soon introduced to several of the leading men, among
whom were the Honourable Thomas Waddell, a wealthy coal-owner from
Pennslyvania, and the newly-elected President of the United
Caledonian Association of America, the highest honour at the
disposal of his fellow countrymen on this side of the Atlantic; Mr
L Lawrie, Secretary of the same Association, and manager of the
Auburn Cloth Manufactory, the largest thing of the kind in the
United States; Mr Stewart, editor and proprietor of the Scottish
American Journal; Messrs Robertson of the New York Scotsman; Mr D.
Macgregor Crerar, Secretary of St Andrew's Society of New York, a
highly respected and popular Highlander among the better class of
Scots in America; Mr Paterson, an Invernessian, and no mean poet;
Mr Gilully, a Merkinch boy; Mr Harcombe, son of the late
proprietor of the Waverly Hotel, Inverness; Major Manson, a
prominent Caithness man, and one of the most popular and liberal,
open-handed men in the American capital. From these and hundreds
of others I experienced the utmost kindness and attention. In fact
their enthusiastic demonstrations in the shape of liberal supplies
of the good things of this life were calculated to place one in a
somewhat trying position; and to take care of one's self required
no small amount of self-denial and force of charactar.
Fortunately, however, I possess no small modicum of these, and I
survive the liberal and warm hospitality of my Highland friends.
The games were highly creditable in all
respects, but the pipe-music and dancing left room for improvement
The favourite piper would have no chance in any of our best
competitions in Scotland. There was another, however, who played
very correctly and sweetly, and was, out of sight, a better
performer than the winner of the first prize. Having spent a few
days in New York, I went on to
BosToN, a magnificent city,
admitted to be the most cultivated and intellectual town in the
United States. I visited Harvard University, Longfellow's
residence—which was also Washington's head-quarters at the
outbreak of the American War of Independence, also the spot where
first blood was drawn, and the place where the historical tea was
thrown overboard rather than that the detested and strongly
resented duty should have been paid on it These and many other
points of interest were exa- mined with mixed feelings; but one
place in particular, an old church, had an inscription out upon it
at which my blood boiled, and at the same time made me wonder that
the inhabitants of the American Athens could be found capable of
such a narrow-minded, contemptible thing The inscription read.
"Desecrated by British troops," &c.; and that in such a thoroughly
British city as that of Boston. I felt relieved on finding that
this wretched littleness was perpetrated, not by any official
body, but by a contemptible set of three or four Trustees of this
church, much to the disgust of, and in opposition to, the
inhabitants. My excellent guide, Mr Magee, the agent for the State
Line Co., informed me that the general feeling among the greater
part of the citizens of Boston found vent in expressions of regret
that the church had not been burnt down in the terrible
conflagration which, a few years ago, destroyed a great portion of
the city, and, having escaped that,a desire prevailed that some
such calamity should soon overtake it. In the late Civil War, the
Americans "desecrated," in the same way, hundreds of churches in
the Southern States, but, of course, these were only "occupied."
It is only occupation by British troops that can desecrate, in the
estimation of these patriotic Yankee trustees, who, one is glad to
find, do not represent the finer feelings of their own countrymen
and fellow citizens. Leaving Boston, after a magnificent sail of
340 miles, I arrived in
ST JOHN, NEW BRUNSWICK, and spent the
evening with the Rev. D. Macrae, M.A., at his own house, and
afterwards in the house of a hospitable friend of his, Mr Murdoch,
a southern Scot, holding a leading position in St John. Here I met
several gentlemen distinguished in literature and in the
church—fine, affable, open-hearted fellows, with the
ecclesiastical starch, if it ever existed, thoroughly rubbed out
of them. Mr Macrae is the son of the late Rev. John Macrae, parish
minister of Stornoway, and presides here over a large,
intelligent, and most influential congregation.
I here found that I could get on to Halifax
by either of two routes— the Intercolonial Railway on the one
hand, or on the other, steamboat to Digby and Annapolis, thence
rail through the Annapolis Valley, the most beautiful and fertile
in all Nova Scotia. I made choice of the latter, and certainly had
no cause to regret it. All along the railway route, through this
magnificent valley, teems with orchards and foliage of the finest
description. It was originally reclaimed and long held by the
French, until they were driven out of it by the British, who,
though the place is a very agricultural paradise, do not seem to
have followed up the enterprise of their predecessors, who
reclaimed not only from the forest, but from the sea, thousands-of
acres known as the Annapolis Marshes, and immortalized by
Longfellow in his famous poem "Evangeiine." This was my first trip
of any consequence in the famous and luxurious American cars,
which for comfort and elegance cannot be named in the same breath
with our very best carriages at home, if we exclude the Pullman
cars. They are particularly agreeable for a stranger to travel
long distances in; for all necessary conveniences are provided in
them, as well as an elegantly fur- furnished smoking saloon, to
which the passengers can walk along from one end of the long train
to the other. Arriving in
HALIFAX late on Friday evening, I
remained there until the Monday morning following, and met some
fine specimens of the Highlander, all of whom exhibited the best
characteristics of the race—characteristics, I regret to say, now
only met with in full play from home. Of those gentlemen, of their
excellent Society—the North British, and of their doings and
position generally, I shall have something to say hereafter.
Meanwhile I proceed through a magnificent country by rail, a
distance of 106 miles to
PICTOU.
The beauty on all sides on this route is
simply indescribable. The pretty, clean-looking, white-painted,
wooden houses, surrounded by fine arable land, in its turn
enclosed within a thick and beautifully variegated forest, each
appearing in miniature like one of our lordly mansions at home.
Every man of these are proprietors of the soil, and thoroughly
Independent of mortal man, when he has paid a very small tax to
the Government He has his children educated free by the State, and
altogether his position is much to be envied. In the morning I
discovered that the Pictounians were celebrating the anniversary
of the arrival of the ship Hector, which, in 1773, landed the
first Highland colony in Pictou, and I was naturally anxious to
see my Highland countrymen on such an occasion; and there they
were, when I arrived, exhibiting the prowess of their ancestors,
commemorating the arrival of their fathers and grand- fathers, in
good Highland fashion. Though they have no Scottish, Highland, or
Caledonian Society, they are full of the proper spirit; and here
they were hotly engaged in their annual Highland games, under the
superintendence of the officers of the artillery, to whom great
credit is due for the manner in which the sports are conducted.
Here I found myself right in the centre of a country and people
more truly Highland in their ways and in their speech than almost
any part of the North of Scotland. Gaelic was more commonly spoken
at this gathering of Highlanders than you can find it now in any
part of Sutherland or Ross shires; and indeed it is there only
that you can now meet with the Sutherland, Ross, and
Inverness-shire people in perfection. Frasers, Mackenzies, and
Macdonalds meet you in hundreds, and address you in the purest
Gaelic. Many of them are almost giants—fine, honest-faced,
powerful, healthy- looking fellows, glad to see one from what they
still call "home," each vying with the other as to who can give
him the most attention and make his visit most agreeable. The
first I meet on landing is a Mr. Donald Fraser, whose parents came
originally from the Lovat country, near Inverness. He had his
carriage to drive me to the games. Before I am barely seated in
it, Captain William Crerar and his nephew—the latter a son of a
fine Highlander, John Crerar, and a young gentleman whom I have
seen in kilts repeatedly during the summer in Inverness—come up
with another carriage for the same purpose. We are soon on the
field, wIieIe I find myself among hundreds from all parts of the
Highlands— any number of Mackenzies from Lochcarron and Gairloch,
Frasers from Inverness, Rosses, Macdonalds, and Sutherlands, from
other counties— many of them wealthy men, and most of them, in
fact, nearly all, in good, comfortable circumstances, possessing
their own lands in free heritage, and producing everything
necessary for human comfort and happiness. Mr Donald Fraser owns
seveial farms, is wealthy, and a director of a thriving local
bank. The Crerars, originally from Breadalbane, I found have many
friends in Inverness and Badenoch. Their father came out here as
an engineer, where he built some of the first roads in the
district. He afterwards engineered and built the first railway.
His sons became ship- owners and doctors, and are now in easy and
affluent circumstances living on their means—and well do they
deserve it, amore hospitable, agreeable, noble, spirited family of
true Celts it is impossible to meet. There is also a very wealthy
family of Mackenzies from Ross, one of whom has designated his
farm "Seaforth." Another Highlander—a fine specimen, physically
and mentally—John D. Macleod, is mayor of the town of Pictou. D.
Macdonald is collector of customs. In short, the place and people
are thoroughly Celtic, and such as to make you proud of the race
to which you and these fine fellows belong. One genuine
enthusiast, Hector Macmillan, I met at the games. His
characteristic Highland face, his keen interest in all the
proceedings of the day, wrapped in a Macneil tartan plaid, was to
me an object of study. He had a hand in everything, and was a
judge in almost all the competitions. He was almost too much
engrossed to remember his own existence, and all he 'wanted was a
full Highland costume to make him in appearance, what I have found
him to be in country, soul, and sentiment—a genuine specimen of a
Lochaber Highlander. The jumping, tossing the caber, the
stone-throwing, and various others of the competitions, would do
credit to some of our best competitors at the Northern Meeting,
but the pipe music was nowhere. I was sorry to see so few dressed
in Highland costume, for there is nothing looks so ridiculous as
to see people dancing Gile-Callum and the Highland Fling in
Sassenach trousers. Only three good kilt suits were on the field.
And one of these, worn by a Mr Yawson, of Orcaclian extraction,
deservedly won him the first prize for the best dressed
Highlander, a Mr Mackenzie, originally from Brora, Sutherlandshire,
but now of Halifax, taking the second prize with a suit made by
Messrs Robert Fraser & Sons, Inverness. This gentleman was, also a
good dancer, and secured some of the principal prizes.
Piotou Town and County are sufficiently
important to demand a whole article devoted to themselves, but it
is my intention in these letters to deal more particularly with
the people. The native resources, and appearance of the country
will be more particularly treated in my letters to the Aberdeen
Daily Free Press. I may, however, state that the whole population
of the county, in 1817, was only 6,737; in 1871 it was 32,114. In
1870 the county produced 76,426 bushels of wheat, 469,868 of oats,
64,937 of other grain, 415,524 of potatoes, 32,334 tons of hay,
and 804,661 lbs. of butter. The farm stock owned was 6,787 horses,
14,958 milch cows, 12,560 other horned cattle, 43,416 sheep, and
4,343 swine. This county manufactures nearly as much leather as
all the rest of the Province of Nova Scotia put together, and
woollen factories are making rapid progress. The surface of the
county is nearly level, and the soil is exceedingly fertile. The
harbour of Pictou is one of the best in the world, but it is
frozen over all winter. Underlying the surface is Devonian lime
stone. The country contains rich mines of coal and iron ore. It
has one coal bed 33 feet in thickness, with 24 feet of excellent
coal. Besides, there are ten other strata. Next to the County of
Halifax, it is the most populous in Nova Scotia. Its area is
720,496 acres, and, as already indicated, it is mainly settled by
Scotch Highlanders. The capital of the county is situated on the
harbour of the same name, in a fertile and fairly cultivated
district. It is well built, has an academy, a library, several
banks, telegraph offices, a newspaper, masonic hall, several fine
churches, hotels, two steam carding mills, two tobacco
manufactories, an iron-foundry, several saw and grist mills, and
tanneries. The shipping owned in the port is very extensive, and
the imports and exports— especially in coal and timber—are very
considerable. The population of the town at last census was
3,200--altogether a prettily situated, prosperous, and growing
seaport.
II.
After sending off my last letter, I met
several North country gentlemen in Pictou, who hold high positions
in the Dominion. One of these is a gentleman from Castle Street,
Inverness, now Senator Grant. I enjoyed his hospitality, and
obtained from him what I enjoyed even more than his very fine
Scotch whisky, viz, two recent numbers of the Inverness Courier,
in one of which, I read a well-written and sensible article,
showing up the anti-Highland members of the Town Council who
oppose the decoration of the New Town Hall Windows with the Arms
of the Highland Clans.
Another Highlander I met in Pictou was Colin
Mackenzie, a gentleman possessed of considerable property,
including the principal Hotel in the town—the St Lawrence,—kept by
another Highlander, Malcolm Morrison, originally from the Island
of Lewis. Mackenzie's grandfather emigrated soon after the arrival
of the ship Hector, in 1773, and came from a place then pretty
thickly populated, but now without a house in it, the district of
Andrary, in Gairloch. Another Mackenzie, in good circumstances,
whom I met here was a Murdo Mackenzie, also from Gairloch, and a
first cousin of the late Captain John Mackenzie, Telford Road,
Inverness. He is over 80 years of age, and his father only died a
few years ago, 99 years of age. Among this coterie, who came a
long distance to see me, was a Captain Carmichael Mackay, whose
grandfather, Roderick Mackay, a native of Uly, was imprisoned in
the old Tolbooth of Inverness many years ago for smuggling.
I received the following account of
Roderick, who, with his family, came out in the ship Hector to
Pictou, where many of his descendants are now in prosperous
circumstances. He was a blacksmith by trade, and some time after
he came to Nova Scotia, secured the important position of chief of
the blacksmith works in Halifax dockyard. In going to Halifax, he
and his wife had to travel on foot, through the forest, the
journey being made more difficult of accomplishment owing to the
fact that they had to carry two young children with them. Under
his direction, while holding this position, was made the great
chain, which, during the war, was stretched across the harbour of
Halifax to keep hostile ships from entering. Roderick was a
thick-set, strongly-built Celt, distinguished for activity,
determination, and fertility of invention. An interesting story is
related of his quondam sojourn in Inverness prison on the occasion
above referred to. The gaugers seized some of Rory's illicit
whisky, upon which he "gave a good account of them," and liberated
his "barley bree." For this he was captured, and lodged in the old
prison of Inverness. His free-born spirit, naturally chafed under
such indignities and restraints, especially in such a good cause
as the hero considered himself engaged in, protecting his own
property, and be soon set about concocting means of exit. He soon
ingratiated himself with his gaoler, and one day he managed to
send him out for a supply of ale and whisky, such things being
freely admitted into such places in the good old days—and the
gaoler could take his glass too from all accounts. Returning with
the ale in one hand and the whisky in the other, Rory discovered
his opportunity, slipped out smartly behind him, closing the door
after him, locking it outside, at the same time carrying off the
key, which is still preserved by his descendants in Pictou. These
feats secured for Rory an honourable place in the hearts of his
countrymen here, and made him a perfect. idol amongst them, though
probably the Inverness gaoler and his friends looked upon the
affair in a very different light Several other feats of great
prowess, which he performed in his adopted country, are still told
of the famous Rory Mackay; but my space does not at present admit
of further record.
Some of these fine old fellows came nine miles to see a Highlander
from the old country. The place is full of men whose ancestors
left their homes in Kintail, Lochbroom, Gairloch, Poolewe, and
Lochcarron, in impoverished circumstances, but who themselves are
now in comfort and even affluence, possessing lands and means of
their own.
Having
parted with these warm-hearted fellows, I was driven out several
miles into the country, by Captain David Crerar, to see the
largest Tannery in Nova Scotia, owned and carried on by John
Logan, a Highlander from Sutherlandshire. His grandfather was a
stone mason at Bonar Bridge, and came out here in 1806. His
father, when very young, worked at the Cotton Mills, the ruins of
which are still to be seen at the roadside as you go from Bonar
Bridge to Dornoch. He became a plasterer and small farmer in this
country, and had four sons, all of whom are in. good positions.
One of these, John, started the Pictou Tannery in 1849, with only
two pits. It has since grown to one hundred and twenty, and is a
sight well worth going a long way to see. He turns out an average
of 3,200 hides of sole leather per annum, representing over
£40,000 in value. One pile of bark which I saw, alone cost over
£2,600, while an equal quantity lay in smaller piles about the
building; and this quantity, value over £5,000, is consumed
annually in the works. All the leather manufactured is sold in the
Dominion at from 10d to 1s per lb. The engine, 25 horse power, is
kept going by the spent bark, which is carried to the furnace from
distant parts of the building by a most ingenious, self-acting
contrivance. The whole place is a perfect model of convenience and
neatness, and the arrangements do great credit to the ingenuity
and enterprise of this self-made, well-to-do Celt, whose place of
business has become the centre of a great industry. I have seen,
during the short time I was there, dozens of farmers coming in
from all parts of the country, with cart-loads of bark, for which
they get the cash in return from Mr Logan, to take home with them;
and, although he has no competition worth mentioning, he pays them
a sufficient sum to make it worth their while to work at it, else
he would have to go without what is, of course, an absolute
necessity for his successful enterprise. A brother, Dougall, keeps
a large shop close to the tannery, and is in a good position,
worth a considerable sum of money.
Parting with my good friends in Pictou, who,
even in the short time I was there, became numerous, I took train
to New Glasgow, with one of the leading barristers of that town, a
Gaelic-speaking Hghlander, named Duncan C. Fraser, whose ancestors
came from the county of Inverness. Having spent a few days with
him, he introduced me to several good Celts, and drove me through
some fine Highland settlements in the country. My friend had been
in Parliament, and was a Member of the Legislative Council of Nova
Scotia, and is, altogether, a worthy representative of his clan
and country. Here I also met an Invernessian, Daniel M. Fraser,
son of Hugh Fraser, farmer, Chines, Stmthdearn, who, I was glad to
find, occupied the responsible position of agent in New Glasgow,
for the Pictou Bank, a prosperous and thriving institution. Mr
Fraser had also charge of the agency at Stellarton, an important
branch, among the great coal mines, a few miles away. Indeed, the
Frasers are at the same time, numerous and prosperous in New
Glasgow, and any Highlander coming among them will meet with a
hearty and very warm reception.
But more interesting to me than all my other
discoveries as yet on this Continent, was finding a representative
of the famous pipers and poets of Gairloch, in the person of John
Mackay, who occupies the most honourable and prominent position in
this thriving town—that of Stipendiary Magistrate. His
great-grandfather was the celebrated blind piper of Gairloch, a
sketch of whose life, with specimens of his poetry, is given by
the late John Mackenzie in the "Beauties of Gaelic Poetry." About
four years ago a paragraph appeared in the Celtic Magazine making
enquiries as to whether any members of this distinguished family
of pipers were yet alive, but no answer was received. The only
thing known about them was that one of them, the grandson of the
famous Piobaire Dali, and the last male representative of the race
in Gairloch, emigrated to some part of America, in 1805, and
carried with him more Ceol mor or Piobaireaehd, than he left
behind him among all the pipers of Scotland. At this time, John,
who is now in his 86th year, was 12 years of age, and even now he
remembers almost every prominent stone and tree in the parish, to
say nothing of the lakes,. rivers, mountains, and valleys. His
father continued to play the national instrument all his life, and
died a very old man. His elder brother, Angus, also played
marches, reels, and strathspeys, but piobaireachd not being
appreciated in the land of his adoption, he practised that higher
class music but little, and was not, therefore, up to the family
standard of excellence in that department. He died a few years
ago, when nearly one hundred years of age. John himself also
learned to play; but at the age of eighteen he finally gave it up,
so that now not one of this celebrated family keeps up the name
and reputation of the family, though several of the descendants of
this fine race still exist—many of them in good circumstances—on
this Continent I spent a whole evening with this fine old
Highlander, who still speaks the purest Gaelic, while his English
strongly smacks of the peat and the heather. His intellect is
quite unimpaired, and he is admitted on all hands to be the ablest
and most independent judge in the whole Province of Nova Scotia.
He was in a perfect ecstasy of joy when talking over his
recollections of his native parish and of the people he
remembered, but of whom hardly a soul now survives. The whole
thing seemed as if a ghost had risen from the grave. He talked of
things long ago as if they were but of yesterday; and I parted
with him with very mixed emotions.
I must now carry you with me on a visit to a
Highlander of a very different but equally genuine stamp, and
better known to the reader, the Rev. A. Maclean Sinclair, who
lives at Springville, ten miles from New Glasgow. Having heard
that I was there, he sent up his machine on Saturday to take me
down to his place. I was only too glad to have the opportunity of
visiting this excellent Celt and Gaelic scholar, though it
happened to be his communion week, which made it more inconvenient
for him, and, in all the circumstances, less attractive for me. On
my arrival, I found him well housed, in a most beautiful locality,
in the centre of a wide district, all settled by Highlanders, most
of whom, I found, came from the parish of Urquhart, in the county
of Inverness, while a few families of Macleans, Mackinnons, and
Macquarries, I found to be descendants of emigrants from the
Island of Rum—in all about 200 well- to-do families. I attended
divine service on Sabbath, and found at the English service about
700 of a congregation, in a neat, comfortable church listening to
a well-reasoned, neatly-delivered sermon. Of these, about 300 were
communicants; but, after the sermon was over, I left and went to a
contiguous hail, where a neighbouring minister, the Rev. Alex.
Maclean, was preaching to a large Gaelic congregation, in the
purest and most unctuous vernacular. I felt how great a pity it
was that we could not have such a fine preacher, getting a good
stipend at home, in place of some of those mongrel, so called
Gaelic preachers we have in many places in the Highlands of
Scotland. Mr Maclean is really a first-class Gaelic preacher, and
uses the language with great fluency and power. He was born where
he is now settled, but was for several years in charge of a
Highland congregation in Prince Edward Island. His father
emigrated from Glen Strathfarrar, in Strathglaas—now as celebrated
for its deer as it was of yore for the fine fellows it sent to the
Church, and to the defence of king and country. Having seen these
meetings of my countrymen, I would not have missed them for a
great deal. Imagine nearly 200 carriages, four- wheeled, scattered
all about the church. Itwas such a sight as I never saw, and never
could have seen in the Highlands; yet here there is hardly a
family which does not drive to church, and market, in a nice light
"waggon" or carriage; but, in spite of all this, mistaken people
at home, will advise the poor crofter not to emigrate to a country
where such things are possible to those who came out here a few
years ago in a state of penury and want.
The Rev. A. Maclean Sinclair is really most
happy and comfortable in his surroundings, and all he seems to
want to make him as completely happy as this world can, is to have
at the head of his household gods, a better hail', congenial to
his cultivated tastes; though at present his mother, a fine old
lady, the daughter of the Bard of Coil, and a walking Celtic
Encyclopadia, keeps house for him, and presides at his hospitable
table. But while I envied him the beautiful situation of his
manse, the happy concord of the large Highland congregation over
which he presides, and the respect paid to him by every one in the
district, I envied him his magnificent and valuable library ten
times more. it is almost impossible to conceive that such a rare
collection of valuable books could be met with in such an
out-of-the-way place. I believe his collection of Celtic works is
the best private one on the American Continent, and very few
indeed can surpass it even at home. Among the works of the Gaelic
Poets on his shelves, I found the first edition of Alexander
Macdonald's Poems, which contains several pieces not suited for
modern ears, and not included in the later edition; Ronald
Macdonald's Collection, published in 1776, the first collection of
Gaelic poems ever published; Gillies's Collection,—now very
rare—published in 1786; Smith's Sean Dana, 1787; John MacGregor's
Poems, 1801; Robert Stewart's, 1802; a rare collection, published
at Inveraray, without date, and containing "An Duanag Ullanth";
Stewart's Collection, 1804; the first Inverness Collection, 1806;
Donald Macleod's, 1811; Turner's, 1813; P. Macfarlane's, in the
same year; Ossian; Leabbar na Feinne; Sè.r Obair nam Bard; aDd all
the more modern collections down to the "Oranaiche," as well as
the modern bards from Dun. can BIu down to the present day. In the
Gaelic prose department, I noticed "An Teachdaire"; an "Cuairtear";
an "Gaidheal"; "Bratach na Firiun"; "Adharnh agus Eubh"; "Bliadhna
Thearlaich"; Campbell's Tales of the West Highlands; all the
Gaelic Dictionaries; and several Gaelic Grammars; while among
English works on Celtic subjects there were Dr John Macpherson's
Critical Dissertation, published in 1768, a rare and valuable
work; the American Edition of Logan's Scottish Gael, published in
Boston in 1833, and with which I was not previously acquainted;
General Stewart's Sketches of the Highlanders; Pattison's Gaelic
Bards; Campbell's Language, Poetry, and Music of the Highlands; Dr
Maclauchian's Celtic Gleanings; Laing's Dissertation on Ossian;
Robertson's Historical Proofs; Fullarton's Highland Clans and
Regiments; Professor Blackie's Language and Literature of the
Highlands; and numberless others, down to the "Prophecies of the
Brahan Seer"; the "Historical Tales and Legends of the Highlands";
and the Celtic Magazine. Many people, possessing good libraries,
know very little of their contents, but Mr Sinclair knows every
word, and is a thorough master of every idea in his splendid
collection. The only pity is that he does not give the benefit of
his vast stores of Celtic learning to his fellow-countrymen.
But I have not, as yet, exhausted the
reverend gentleman's treasures, the best of which still fall to be
noticed. He showed me a rare collection of Gaelic poems made by a
Dr Maclean, in the Island of Mull, as early as the year 1768,
eight years before Ronald Macdonald's, the first collection ever
published. John Maclean, the Bard of Coil (Mr Sinclair's
grandfather), obtained this rare MS. Collection about 1816, from
the collector's daughter, Mairi Nighean an Doctair. The majority
of the poems in it are nowhere else to be found, and those in it
which have appeared in printed collections are, Mr Sinclair
informs me, far superior and more correct in the MS. This is
natural enough; for the earlier a poem or song is taken down, the
more likely it is to be correct, and as the original composer
finally left it The MS. contains about forty-eight pieces of
considerable length, and several shorter pieces. Many of the songs
are by lain Lom, Eachainn Bacach, lain MacAilein, and other
well-known Gaelic bards, Another valuable Collection in MS. is one
made by the bard, John Maclean, who travelled extensively over the
Highlands and Islands of Scotland, between the years 1812 and
1816. During this tour he took down one hundred and ten Gaelic
songs, forming the extensive MS. under notice. It contains pieces
by lain Lom, Eachainn Bacach, Mairearad nigh'n Lachainn, and some
by Mairi nigh'n Alastair Ruaidli, while there are several songs by
Alexander Mackinnon, the warrior bard. Only a small portion of the
valuable pieces preserved in this MS. have ever been' published.
My friend has yet a third MS. of Gaelic poems and songs which he
has prepared for the press; and, I rejoice to find, will very soon
be sent to the printer. I have heard several of John Maclean's
songs sung throughout Nova Scotia, where they are very popular,
while I had the pleasure of reading, or hearing read, many others;
and I have no hesitation in saying that the "Bard of Coil"
deserves, and is sure to occupy, a high place among the Gaelic
bards: and Mr Sinclair will be con. ferring a great boon on Celtic
students, and on the admirers of Gaelic poetry, by placing his
grandfathers Gaelic poems within their reach. Is it not marvellous
to meet with such a Celtic Eden in such a place, and all
accumulated by Mr Sinclair from pure personal love for the
language and literature of his ancestors, of which he is himself
such a perfect master! It is a pity that our friend had not a
wider field, and a greater opportunity for sharing his knowledge
with others; and I am selfish enough to wish that he would get,
and accept, a call to a charge at home, where we would have a
better opportunity of getting him occasionally to aid us, in
rescuing from oblivion the history and traditions of the Celts,
and of popularising the language and literature of the Gael.
Having said so much about Mr Sinclair and his surroundings, it may
interest the reader to learn that his father was a native of the
parish of Reay, and a brother of the late Alexander Sinclair of
Thurso, so highly spoken of in "The Ministers and Men of the Far
North." His mother, presiding so gracefully over his house- hold,
is a daughter of the Bard MacGilleain, as already stated. He was
born in Glenbard (so called after his grandfather), Nova Scotia in
1840, and was ordained a minister of the Presbyterian Church, in
1866. The Bard of Coil was born at Caolas, in the Island of Tiree,
on the 8th of January 1787. He belonged to the Treisnish branch of
the Macleans of Ardgour, and emigrated to Pictou in 1819, where he
lived at a place called Barney's River for twelve years. He
afterwards removed to the county of Antigonish, where he lived and
died, at the place now known after him as Glenbard. Here he
breathed his last, on the 25th of January 1848. His wife, Isabell
Black, a native of Lismore, died two years ago, aged 91, and both
now lie buried on the farm on which they lived. A handsome stone,
seen from the train going from New Glasgow to Antigonish, with the
following Gaelic inscription, marks their resting place :-
There is still another excellent Gaelic
scholar in this district—the Rev. D. B. Blair, born in the county
of Argyle, but when he was only twelve years of age his father
removed to Badenoch. He came to this country a few years after the
Disruption, where he is held in the highest estimation. He has
charge of the congregation of Barney's River and Blue Mountain —is
a true Highlander and Gaelic scholar, 4 fact well known to the
readers of the Gael, to which, during its existence, he
contributed several articles. He is the author of several Gaelic
poems, and of a new metrical translation of the Psalms of David,
both of considerable merit; and is altogether a man and a
Highlander, of whom, with many others here, we may well feel
proud. I had only a very short stay with my reverend friend, and
parted with him with many regrets. I had other engagements,
however, which could not be postponed, so I was driven back to New
Glasgow, from whence I found my way by rail—an extension of
forty miles through a magnificent country, only opened a few days
previously—to the town of Antigonish, where I had arranged to
deliver a Lecture on "Flora Macdonald and Prince Charles," under
the auspices of the "Highland Society of Antigonish?' I had
previously lectured in the city of Halifax, under the
distinguished patronage of His Excellency General Sir Patrick
Macdongall, Commander-in-chief of Her Majesty's Canadian Forces;
of His Honour the Lieutenant-Governor of Nova Scotia; and of the
North British Society of Halifax, where I had a fine, select
audience, including in addition, the Premier and Provincial
Secretary of Nova Scotia, the Archbishop, and most of the leading
inhabitants. I had also lectured in Pictou and in New Glasgow,
under high patronage, the Mayor of each place presiding; but the
Highland Society of Antigonish paid me the compliment of turning
out in their tartans and "Bonnets of Blue"; and, at a special
meet- ing of the Society, held in the hail immediately after the
lecture, I was elected, by acclamation, an Honorary Member of
their patriotic Society— the highest compliment they had in their
power to confer on a Highlander from home. Among those present,
and in their Highland array, were the President, Vice-President,
and Secretary of the Society; Angus Macisaac, M.P. for the
Dominion of Canada; Angus Macgillivray, M.P. for Nova Scotia; J.
J. Mackinnon, ex-M.P.; Dr William A. Macdonald, a cadet of the
family of the Isles; Archibald A. Macgillivray, a prominent
Highlander; the Rev. Alex. Chisholm, D.D., D.P., Professor in St
Francis Xavier's College; Professor Macdonald; the Rev. Father
Gillies; and many others not only of the best Gaelic-speaking
Highlanders here, but the most piominent officials and the most
influential citizens. There was one, however, who deserves more
than a more passing notice.
Norman Macdonald, a native of Arisaig, came
eight miles to see me. I found that he issued in 1863 an edition
of Mackenzie's "Beauties of Gaelic Poetry," which was largely sold
throughout Nova Scotia; but I was sorry to learn that, like most
other ventures in the Celtic field, it barely paid the patriotic
Celt, who ran the risk of placing this classical Celtic work
within the reach of his countrymen on this side of the Atlantic.
In this edition, Mackenzie's Preface and Logan's learned and able
Introduction are left out, as also the Ossiathc Poems at the
beginning, Oran na Briogsa, and the whole of the Appendix and
Glossary, while a sketch of John Mac- loan, the Bard of Coil, and
a few specimens of his poems, as well ass few poems composed by
others, are introduced. With the exception of a few typographical
errors, inevitable in a work set up by compositors ignorant of the
language, the work is very well got up. It was sold at 10s--and
you meet with a copy in the houses of most of the beat-to-do
Highlanders in Nova Scotia, and especially in Cape Breton.
The people of the County of Antigonish came
mostly from the West Coast Highlands—Arisaig, Knoydart, Moidart,
Morar, and Strathglass. The prevailing names are,
consequently, Macdonalds, Chisholms, and Macgillivrays. The
population of the county in 1871 was about 15,000, of which about
2,000 live in the town of Antigonish, which is the seat of the
Roman Catholic Bishop of Arichat. It contains a college,
cathedral, two telegraph offices, a printing office—issuing a
weekly newspaper—a bank, several fine shoes and hotels. Vessels
not drawing more than ten feet can come up the bay, which is a
fine inlet of the Gulf of St Lawrence, extending up to the town.
At least nine-tenths of the whole population of the county, belong
to the Roman Catholic Church, but they live on the most friendly
terms with their Presbyterian neighbours. The people are very
comfortable, possessing fine farms of their own, specially suited
for grazing purposes. Over 1,600 head of cattle, in addition to a
large num- ber of horses, are annually exported from the country
to Newfoundland; also, large quantities of butter and cheese, and
other agricultural produce. The County of Antigonish is now the
most Highland in Canada, and hundreds of its inhabitants cannot
speak any but the Gaelic language. In the town of Antigonish I met
a fine Highlander, James Chisholm, from St Andrews, who insisted
upon driving me out seven miles to see another fine old
Highlander, a native of Glengarry, the Rev. J. V. Macdonell,
parish priest of St Andrews, and an old subscriber to the Celtic
Magazine. I hesitated at first, but my friend would not be put
off, and, as an additional inducement, he offered to drive me in
his carriage from St Andrews to Port Muigrave, a distance of forty
miles, on my way to Cape Breton. I could not resist his
importunity, and 'I at last consented. I was naturally curious to
know the antecedents of my benefactor, and he informed me on our
way, that his grandfather, Thomas Chisholm, resided at Craobh
Leabhauin, in Strathglass, and that his own father, Hugh Chisholm,
came out here in 1801. We soon arrived at Father .Macdondell's
house, and found this fine old Highlander preparing to retire for
the night, but he soon changed his mind on our arrival; gave me a
most hearty welcome; after which we talked for hours about matters
Highland. The Rev. Father, though past sixty, never preached an
English sermon in his life.' I remained two days with him, and
there met several truly Celtic fathers, among whom was Father
William Chisholm, a genuine Celt, full of Highland history and
tradition, and brimful of Gaelic and Irish songs and melodies. My
friend, Colin Chisholm, will probably recognise him as lar-Oglia
do Dhomhnull Gobha, in Strathglass. Here also I met the Rev. D. J.
Mackintosh, P.P., North Sydney, and the Rev. Roderick Grant, P.P.,
Boisdale, both of Cape Breton; and fine, warm-hearted good.
looking Highlanders, all of whom treated me with such extreme
kindness that I was melted down, and could almost exclaim with
Agrippa of old, slightly varied, that "I was almost persuaded to
become a Catholic." On Saturday morning, my original friend, James
Chisholm, took me in charge to drive me forty miles on to Port
Muigrave, on my way to Cape Breton, and I had to part with my
Catholic friends of St Andrews with no small regret. I soon,
however, found that I was not yet done with the good fathers.
About seven miles farther on, at Heatberton, I was accosted by a
tall handsome young man, of six feet four inches and a-half,
habilitated like the fathers I had just left behind rue. He,
Father John Chisholm, learned that I was coining his way that
morning, and he prepared a fest. He even went the length of
procuring a bottle of Scotch whisky, though he Was an abstainer
himself, and had not such a thing in his house for many years
before. I must again leave my mellow Highland and Catholic friend,
Colin Chisholm, to take charge of the Genealogical department, and
make out the ancestors of my kind entertainer. The late
Gilleaspuig MacCaiean was his maternal grandfather; the late Mr
Alex. Macdonell, Judique, Cape Breton, was his maternal
granduncle, and his paternal grandfather was Ian Dorm MacAlistair
Bhric, an Coin nan Cuilean, Strathglass. His father, Jan Mac Ian
Duinn, lived during the last six years, before he left his sative
Strathglnss, at Knockfln. The old gentleman was then living, in
his 82d year, and called at his son's bQUSO w1uI I was there.
Before I saw him, I heard a voice in the lobby, procnimlag in
good, sonorous Gaelic, the following introduction
Exactly a week after, this fine old
Highlander died suddenly, 'without any suffering or pain whatever.
All along this long drive of forty miles,
the scenery was very fine, through hills, dales, and mighty
forests—the Island of Cape Breton in full view, a few miles on the
right, with the Straits of Canso intervening. About half-way on, I
called on a Church of England clergyman, the Rev. Angus Macdonald,
Bayfield, but did not find him at home. He had written me to
Halifax, on seeing my arrival in the papers, to spend a few days
with him; but this I found impossible from the limited time at my
disposal. I met him, however, accidentally at Antigonish, and
found him a very genuine Celt. Late on Saturday night we arrived
at the Ferry of Port Mulgrave, and put up with another Highlander,
Roderick Macleod who keeps the best hostelry in the place. Hero I
met several of my countrymen; and, on Monday, I passed into the
Island of Cape Breton, across a ferry abort a mile and a-quarter
wide. A description of this glorious region must be left for next
issue.
The whole of
this article may probably appear tedious and, altogether,
partaking too much of a personal character; but I found it quite
impossible to show my appreciation of, and illustrate in any other
way, the great kindness of my follow-countrymen in this
country—kindness and attention not extended to me merely on
personal grounds, but as a Highlander from the old country. The
same good feeling would be extended to any other good specimen of
the race from the other side, by these warm-hearted, hospitable
Celts.
III.
CAPE BRETON.
IF I remember correctly I parted company
with the reader in my last at Port Mulgrave, on the Straits of
Canso, on my way to Cape Breton, where I arrived, after having
crossed the Straits by a ferry only a little more than a mile
wide, on the 22d of September, thus satisfying a life-long
ambition; for ever since I began to think, I looked forward to the
day when I should see this island, made interesting to me from
childhood days in consequence of several relatives having
emigrated there when I was but a child. I felt as if I were a new
man in a new world, and a most beautiful and delightful world it
was. I crossed pretty early in the day, and a family of Grants
from Glenmorriston having discovered that I was there, insisted
upon paying me every attention, and upon my delivering a lecture
on my return, which, in the end, I agreed to do. After a pleasant
day spent in the village of Hawkesbury, I hired a conveyance to
carry me over a neck of land 13 miles across from the Strait8 of
Canso to West Bay, on the Big Bras D'or Lake, from which I got to
my destination on Boulardrie Island, by the steamer Neptune, a
handy little boat, commanded by Captain Howard Beatty, a most
agreeable fellow, and a genuine Scot. Our countrymen are in this
country at the top of everything, and I was not surprised to find
that the purser was also a Scot and a Highlander, Archibald
Macdonald, a native of Arisaig. The sail on these magnificent
lakes was most delightful, the scenery reminding one very much of
Loch-Ness and its surroundings, with the difference that the Bras
D'or Lake would not miss Loch-Ness out of it, and that the
Inverness-shire mountains are on a much grander scale than those
of Cape Breton. I never enjoyed anything so much as this sail,
though possibly that may be attributed in some degree to the fact
that I was just realising, and, as it were, drinking in the
ambition and object of forty years. On the right we leave the
Little Bras D'or and Christmas Isle, while on the left we call at
and pass Baddeck, a pretty village, the capital of Victoria
county, which carries on a considerable trade with Newfoundland in
cattle and dairy produce. In a few hours I land at Fraser's Wharf,
so called after the son of the late Rev. Mr Fraser, a native of
Dingwall, for many years minister on the Island of Boulardrie.
John A. Fraser, a first cousin of the Rev. Mr Bailhie, minister of
Gairloch, was the first man I met on landing, and he at once
volunteered to drive me to where my friends lived, about two and
a-half miles distant. I was soon among my friends, whom I found in
much better circumstances than I anticipated, and as their
position is a fair illustration of that of many others in Cape
Breton, I may just as well describe it. Their father, Alexander
Grant, emigrated from Gairloch In 1841, having only a very few
pounds in his possession. He had been in the British navy for five
years, in virtue of which he obtained a free grant of 200 acres on
his arrival in Cape Breton. He, at the same time, took up another
lot of equal extent, both then completely covered with a dense
forest. Some of his family were grown up, and he at once set to
work to clear a patch to plant a few potatoes in. The first thing
he did was to erect a hut in the forest. The snow lay thick on the
ground. A sufficient space was cleared to enable the family to sit
round a fire placed in the centre of the hut, and sleep around it
at night, while the bank of snow was left at one end for the
purposes of a pillow, with the bushes of trees as the only
covering to screen them from the wintry elements. Never mind, they
passed the winter without suffering any injury to their hardy
constitutions; next year they built a log-house, and they set to
work in right earnest to clear the forest. The old man and the
family prospered. His two sons now possess 200 acres each of
excellent land, contiguous to one another, with about twenty head
of cattle, thirty sheep, and two pair of horses each. They live in
good, substantially built houses of nine or ten rooms each,
furnished and carpeted equal to any farmer's house in the county
of Inverness. I was shown deposit receipts for eon• siderable sums
in bank, and notes for various amounts lent out at interest to
tradesmen in the district. Here I met several from my native
pariah of Gairloch, and other parts of Wester Ross, in easy
circumstances, possessing their own farms in free heritage, and as
happy as they can wish. Their religious wants are well supplied,
since the death of the Rev. Mr Fraser, by a fine Highlander, and a
good, solid, common-sense preacher, the Rev. Mr Drummond, a native
of Argyleshire. I beard him preach two sermons, one in Gaelic and
the other in English. In the former he was really eloquent, and,
unlike many of the Gaelic sermons often preached at homey his
effort exhibited evidence of having been carefully prepared; while
it was fluently, and earnestly delivered. Mr Drummond I found to
be a great favourite with his people, and, though a genuine,
true-blue Presbyterian, by no means a narrow-minded bigot.
From Boulardrio my relatives were able to
drive me to North Sydney, a distance of fourteen miles, in a
carriage and pair, while, had they remained at home in Melvaig,
they would probably have never got beyond a pair of creels. In
North Sydney I delivered my lecture on "Flora Macdonald and Prince
Charles." I was well received. Next morning I found myself famous
in the local papers, and in the evening I delivered another in
South Sydney, the ancient capital of Cape Breton—the Hon. Sheriff
Fergusson, a native of Uist, and a perfect Celtic encyclopdia,
doing me the honour of presiding, while the Hon. E. F. Moseley,
Speaker of the Nova Scotia Hones of Commons, proposed a vote of
thanks in a tasteful, appreciative speech, and kindly invited me
to spend a few days at his house. My time, however, was limited,
and I was obliged, with some regret, to decline his preferred
hospitality. Here I also met some warm-hearted and well-to-do
Colts. Among. them, James Mackenzie, a native of Lochcarron,
owning the finest drapery establishment in Sydney, having larger
accommodation than any shop in Inverness. His better- half I found
to be a daughter of the better-known James Mackenzie, merchant and
banker, Stornoway. Another prominent and prosperous Gael was
Duncan Mackenzie, descended on the one side from the Sand (Udrigle)
Mackenzies, and on the other from the family of Gruinard; as also
Kenneth R Mackenzie, a leading grocer in North Sydney, from
Lochcarron, descended from the Mackenzies of Fairburn and
Davochmaluag.
Nine-tenths of the
population of Cape Breton are Scottish Highlanders, nearly all of
whom still speak the Gaelic language. There are only two
Presbyterian congregations in the whole Island in which Gaelic is
not preached at least once a day. There are a great many Highland
Catholics in the Island, who live on the most friendly terms with
their Presbyterian neighbours. It is divided into four counties,
named respectively, Inverness, Richmond, Victoria, and Cape
Breton. Farming is generally backward, except in the county of
Inverness, which is farmed equal to any county in Nova Scotia, but
in spite of that, Cape Breton took the first prize for the best
oats exhibited at the Provincial Exhibition of all the product of
Nova Scotia, held during my visit to that place.
The Island is 100 miles long by, in one
part, 85 wide, having an area of 3120 square miles. The first
settlement was made in 1712 by the French. It had, however, been
discovered by the French navigator Cabot as early as 1497, but
previous to 1700 it was only visited by fur traders and fishermen.
After they lost Nova Scotia proper, or that part of it known as
Acadia, the French began to colonise Cape Breton, and to build the
great fortifications at Louisurg, which, while in the possession
of the French, continued for many years to be the capital of the
Island. The fortress was long considered impregnable, but war
having been declared between France and Great Britain, Governor
Shirley of Massachussetta formed the design of taking the
stronghold; and sailing from Boston with a powerful expedition for
that purpose, he arrived at the Straits of Canso on the 5th of
April 1745. The reinforcements sent by the French were captured by
the British admiral, and the great fortress was ultimately forced
to capitulate. The Acadians sent to France for aid; an expedition
was got up to reconquer Acadia and Cape Breton, but the hostile
fleet met with severe and terrible disasters. It was wrecked and
dispersed by violent storms, the crews were thinned to an alarming
extent by epidemics, the expedition accomplished nothing, and only
a small remnant returned to France. By the treaty of
Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748, the Island was restored to its original
owners, but it was soon after finally and for ever attached to the
British crown.
It
is very much indented with bays, and every part of its interior is
accessible by water. The part to the north of the Big Bras D'or
Lake, which divides the Island into two, is high, bold, and steep,
while the southern half is low, intersected by numerous inlets,
diversified by moderate elevations, and rising gradually from its
interior shore on little Bras For Lake until it terminates in
abrupt cliffs toward the Atlantic Ocean. The highest elevation in
the southern half is only 800 feet above the level of the sea,
while towards North Cape, In the northern section, the mountains
rise to an altitude of 1800 feet. Big Bras D'or Lake is 50 miles
long by 20 wide, and varies in depth from 12 to 60 fathoms. It is
one of the safest harbours in the world, and thousands of British
ships have, in the past, obtained in it their cargoes of timber.
Salt springs are found on the coast The climate varies, but is not
so cold as on the adjoining continent of Nova Scotia. Vegetation
is rapid. Maize and corn are produced in considerable quantities,
but not to a sufficient extent for home consumption. Quarries of
marble, granite, limestone, and slates, are plentiful throughout
the Island. Gypsum and salt are also to be found, and coal is
abundant and of a very superior quality. No less than 120 square
miles are occupied with coal of the very best description, while
there are rich deposits of superior iron ore and gold. The Island
has always been celebrated for its fisheries. In 1871 its products
were as follows:—Dried cod, 126,275 cwt.; scale fish, 64,002 do.;
pickled mackerel in barrels, 49,226 do.; pickled herrings, 39,266
do.; pickled salmon, 944 do.; other pickled fish, 3363 do.; oil of
all kinds in gallons, 74,625, the total estimate at considerable
over a quarter of a million sterling, and the Island employing no
less than 5780 men in this industry alone. The coal trade has for
many years been exceedingly prosperous, but since Confederation
with the upper provinces of Canada it has been almost ruined in
consequence of a tax of 75 cents per ton placed by the Americans
on all Canadian coal, making it impossible for the Nova Scotians
to compete in their natural market with the home product in the
United States of America. The population of Cape Breton in 1861
was 63,083, in 1871 it was 75,483. It sends eight members to the
Provincial Legislature of Nova Scotia, and five to the Dominion
House of Commons. It has turned out some very good men, among them
the Hon. William Ross, late M.P. in the Dominion Parliament, and
Minister of Militia in the late Government. He is now Collector of
Customs at the port of Halifax, where I had the pleasure of making
his acquaintance. His people emigrated from Sutherlandshire
without a penny, and though he only obtained such education as the
common schools of Cape Breton could afford him thirty to forty
years ago, his natural ability secured for him the honourable
position of a Minister of the Dominion of Canada. His brother,
John Ross, was also a member of Parliament, but was defeated at
the last genera] election. Charles Campbell, Baddeck, was for
twenty years M.P. in the local House, afterwards a member of the
Legislative Council, and subsequently M.P. in the Dominion
Parliament. He possesses extensive coal mines in Cape Breton, and
a wharf and buildings at Halifax, for which a few years ago he
paid nearly £10,000. He is a native of Skye, and was originally in
poor enough circumstances. Another Skyeman, Alexander Campbell, is
M.P. for the county of Inverness, and is, commercially, in good
circumstances. William Macdonald, M.P. for the county of Cape
Breton, is a successful merchant at Glass Bay, whose father
emigrated from the Western Isles. H. F. Macdougall, M.P., returned
to the local House last year, has a capital business on Christmas
Isle. His father came out from Barra quite poor and uneducated, in
spite of which he succeeded in business here, educated his family,
and his son is now in Parliament. Mr Macinnes, now M.P. for
British Columbia, came from Skye to Cape Breton penniless, and
made a fortune. And last, but not least—among the members of
Parliament, Cape Breton has turned out John Morrison, M.P., who
has been returned last year to the local House, and who
distinguished himself by delivering the first Gaelic speech ever
delivered in the Nova Scotian Legislature. His father, who was
closely related to Morrison "Gobha," the Harris bard, emigrated
from that place without a cent, and became a prosperous farmer.
The son now possesses the farm, along with one of his own, and is
a prosperous merchant, at St Anne's, in addition. I had the good
fortune to meet him on the steamer on my way back from Cape
Breton, and enjoyed his company all the way to Halifax, and for a
considerable time there; and a finer Highlander—plain and
unpretentious, but most intelligent, it has not been my lot to
meet, A Mr Maclean, who came out from the Isle of Skye without a
sixpence, is now the wealthiest farmer on the Island. He was quite
illiterate, but a good farmer. He made money, which he has
advanced at high rates of interest on mortgages and other such
safe investments, and is now reputed to be possessed of great
wealth.
Having
spent five most agreeable days in Cape Breton, I returned, by the
Bras D'or route, to Port Hawkesbury, where I delivered my promised
lecture, to an appreciative audience, on the night of my arrival,
and started immediately after, by boat, to Pictou, through the
Straits of Canso and across part of the Gulf of St Lawrence. From
there I took train for 106 miles to
THE CITY OF HALIFAX,
to see the annual Provincial Exhibition of
the Agricultural, Mechanical, and Manufacturing Products of the
whole Province. Here I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance
of some very fine Highlanders, among them the Hon. William Holmes,
Premier of Nova Scotia, and a Gaelic-speaking Celt. His ancestors
came out quite poor. Hisfather became a successful farmer, whose
house I visited near the Church of the Rev. A. Maclean Sinclair,
at Springville. He afterwards became a Senator of the Dominion,
and his son now holds the leading position in Nova Scotian
politics. The Hon. James Macdonald, Canadian Minister of Justice,
who resides in Halifax, came originally from Redcastle. The Hon.
James S. S. Macdonald, a banker and a member of the Legislative
Council; his brother, Charles Macdonald, recently represented the
county of Halifax in Parliament, but was appointed to the chief
Post-Office Inspectorship of Nova Scotia; the Hon. William Ross,
Collector of Customs, already mentioned ; Angus Macleod, Collector
of Inland Revenue; George Maclean, cashier in the Merchants' Bank;
Hugh Murray, of Burns and Murray; William Mackenzie, of Madllreith
& Co.; Alexander Stephens, a native of Morayshire, and Robert
Stewart, a native of Castle Street, Inverness, a large farmer and
successful merchant in Truro; these and many others, I had the
pleasure of meeting in the City of Halifax, all well-to-do, and
holding positions of influence or trust. And in almost every
instance their ancestors, and, in some cases, themselves, came to
this country without a farthing. All honour to them, and to the
country in which they were able to do for themselves or their
descendants what they could never have done in their native land.
But there is yet another good. Highlander in
Halifax who has made for himself, by hard work and industry,
wealth and position; John Maclachlan, a native of Ardgour, in
Lochaber, where he was skipper of a small sloop, and a
boat-builder. He emigrated on the 8th of April 1839, settled first
in New Brunswick, afterwards went to Prince Edward Island, and
subsequently to Pictou, in all of which places he worked at his
business of boat or ship-building. This was not considered good
enough, however, by the old Lochaber skipper, and (I heard it
whispered) poacher in a small way. Indeed it was partly in
consequence of his diversions in the latter tempting sport that he
determined upon emigration; for it was too attractive a pastime to
be let alone, and it might lead to bad and disagreeable
consequences. Having made a little money at his trade in Pictou,
Maclachlan decided upon visiting Virginia in the United States, to
discover the secret of tobacco manufacturing, but the manner in
which he managed it, though amusing and interesting, would occupy
too much of my apace. He returned, and commenced business in 1860
in a small way as a tobacco manufacturer in the City of Halifax.
The business continued to increase until it has become, many years
ago, the most extensive in the Lower Provinces. The most approved
machinery has been introduced, and before Confederation over a
hundred hands were regularly employed, manufacturing as much as
50,000 lbs. of tobacco per month, the net value of which, in bond,
without the duty, was tenpence a pound, or a total per month of
considerably over £2000. Since Confederation he has not been doing
so much in consequence of UpperCanada competition, but he still
turns out an average of 36,000 lbs. a month, and is the only
manufacturer who has hitherto made cake tobacco in Nova Scotia,
though I have met with a Mr Thomas Grant, a native of Strathapey,
who was just about starting another factory when I was in Halifax.
The capital engaged in Maclachlan's business is about £12,000. The
home duty on the manufactured article is ten pence a pound,
exactly the same as the net cost of tobacco itself. The firm is
known as A. A., and W. Smith & Co., the Smiths attending to the
commercial part of the business, while Mr Maclachlan has the sole
management of the factory. He has amassed great wealth, and is,
among his own countrymen, very liberal with it, though much of his
good deeds are done on the principle that his right hand knoweth
not what his left hand doeth.
When the 78th Highlanders were in Halifax,
several years ago, Mr Maclachian became acquainted with Pipe-Major
Ronald Mackenzie, of that distinguished Regiment, and his son,
John, exhibiting a taste for music, the old Highlander determined
that he should be taught to play the bagpipes; and Pipe-Major
Mackenzie was employed to teach him. Having met Ronald at the last
Annual Assembly of the Gaelic Society of Inverness, I told him
that I was going to Halifax. "Well, if you are," said he, "you
must call and see my old pupil, John Maclachlan, son of Maclachlan,
the tobacco manufacturer there, one of the best Highlanders I ever
met from home. Before I left Halifax the pupil could almost play
as well as his master, and if he continued to practice and
progress as he did when I was there, I expect he will be quite
equal to, if not better, than myself." I called as requested, and
had an evening of the pipes, played in perfect style. I never
heard a cleaner finger on a chanter, and for time, spirit, and
accurate playing, I honestly believe that the teacher's prediction
has been verified, and that the pupil is now really as good a
player as his master. I strongly recommended him to go to Scotland
and compete at the Northern Meeting, where I feel sure he would
carry away some of the principal prizes, and possibly the medal.
He is, however, only a gentleman amateur, and he is loth to
compete in public; but as he has ample means, I trust his old
master will ere long have the satisfaction of seeing him in the
Highland capital competing for and possibly carrying off the gold
medal. He has no competitor within sight on the American
continent, and I am satisfied that he has few, if any, superiors
at home.
There are
a great many Gaelic-speaking Highlanders in the City of Halifax,
and it will gratify Professor Blackie, and those who reverence and
still stand up for the Gaelic language, to know that public
worship has been carried on in that city for the last seven years
in the vernacular they love. These meetings were originated by the
Rev, George Lawson. Gordon, while yet a student at Dalhousie
College, about which time he also published a Gaelic grammar,
favourably noticed in these pages. I regret that I missed seeing
him, for at the very time when I was in one part of Cape Breton,
he was being introduced, in another part, to a Gaelic- speaking
congregation, who had just given him a call. The meetings in
Halifax are conducted during the winter by the students from the
two colleges in turn, and in summer the work is carried on by
Alexander Mackenzie, a native of Lochcarron, and a brother of
Kenneth R Mackenzie, North Sydney, already mentioned. An excellent
colleague is Neil Brodie, a southern Scot, who not only learnt to
speak Gaelic fluently, but many other languages; and he is a most
enthusiastic supporter of the Celtic cause in Halifax. The Society
is called "Comunn Criosdaidh nan Gael." The attendance is
generally about 200 Gaelic-speaking people, principally from Cape
Breton, Prince Edward Island, Pictou, and Antigonish; and those
best acquainted with the Celts of the City assert that there is an
ample field in Halifax for a Gaelic evangelist who would devote
his whole time to the spiritual wants of the Gaelic-speaking
population.
The
North British Society is one of the oldest and most useful on the
American continent, and I trust on some future occasion to find
room to write more fully of its history and work than I can
possibly find in these papers. I may, however, say that it is
conducted on principles which must recommend themselves to all
right thinking people. No Soot in distress is permitted to go
unaided; but all help is given on the understanding that those
receiving it will afterwards repay any money advanced to them or
otherwise expended on their behalf if ever they find themselves
able to do so; and I am glad to say that, in many cases, this has
been done by parties--widows and orphans and others in distress,
whose passages had been paid home, or to the homes of relatives in
distant parts of Canada. The Society attend also to the wants of
poor, respectable Scots, who are in reduced circumstances in the
City, in a manner the least calculated to wound the feelings of
the recipients of their bounty. Altogether they are doing a
patriotic and a noble work, and it is gratifying to find that they
possess very considerable funds—sufficient to deal liberally with
all the deserving, necessitous cases brought under their notice.
Halifax boasts, with justice, of the
prettiest and best public gardens in the Dominion of Canada; and
here and at the Provincial Exhibition, I saw, taking them
altogether, the best-looking women I ever saw any- where. I have
seen a few greater beauties, especially among English ladies, but
here one can hardly meet with a common-place face. They have the
robust, healthy characteristics of the Scotch, while the mixing of
the races, and the fine bracing climate and sea air seem to have
softened down the features and painted their lips and cheeks with
the most beautiful tints of the lily and the rose. it is, however,
possible that my judgment may be at fault as regards real beauty;
for I must confess that at the Northern Meeting Games, held at
Inverness in 1878, having been told that the famous beauty, Mrs
Langtry, was among the crowd of ladies assembled there, I and a
few others were trying to discover her, and we failed. We saw
her,, but we did not recognise her as at all a beauty. We thought
some of our own Highland girls were very pretty; and that one out
of a few .whom we saw must have been Mrs Langtry, but when the
object of our curiosity was pointed out to us, though at first we
could not discover the lady's beauty, we began to look for what
must of course be there. Our imaginations aided us, and the lady
at once became beautiful in our eyes. At first sight I could pick
out those whom I would consider far prettier women in Halifax, but
the reader will probably conclude from the above that I am no
judge.
Nova Scotia,
its climate and people, have made an impression upon me which I
shall never forget, and I have good reason to know that the good
feeling is not altogether on one side. After spending five weeks—
about the happiest in my life—in this fine Province—amongst its
magnificent people—I found my way, on the 17th of October, to the
City of Quebec, after travelling a distance of about 600 miles on
the Intercolonial Railway, through, on the whole, some very fine
scenery, going right across the Province of New Brunswick, and
alongside the noble St Lawrence. In the next number I shall ask
the reader to accompany me to Upper Canada, and visit Montreal,
Glengarry, and the Capital of the Dominion.
IV.
HAVING arrived at Point Levi, opposite Quebec, on the 17th of
October, I crossed the river St Lawrence next day, and visited the
famous fortifications of this ancient and remarkable city. On the
night of my arrival at Point Levi one of the Atlantic liners
arrived with about 500 passengers, several of whom took up their
quarters at my hotel. Among them I recognised an old Invernessian,
who was accompanied by four south-country Scots; and we decided
upon visiting Quebec together, and upon going the length of the
Heights of Abraham, where the immortal Wolfe fell in the moment of
victory over the French, who, the same day, surrendered Quebec to
the British army. We examined the spot on which the famous
commander fell, mortally wounded, and on which a neat,
unpretentious monument is erected to commemorate the fact As be
there lay his eyes closed, it was thought, in death, some one
cried out "They fly." He instantly opened his eyes and asked, "Who
are flying?" and on being told that it was the enemy, he said,
"Then I die happy," and immediately, expired. In this memorable
engagement Fraser's Highlanders took a prominent and distinguished
part, losing in killed, Captain Thomas Ross of Cuirossie;
Lieutenants Roderick MacNeill of Barra and Alexander Macdonald of
Barrisdale; one sergeant, and fourteen rank and file; while among
the wounded were Captain John Macdonald of Lochgarry, and Captain
Simon Fraser of Inverallochy: Lieutenants Macdonell of Reppoch,
Archibald Campbell, Alexander Campbell, John Douglas, Alexander
Fraser; Ensigns James Mackenzie, Malcolm Fraser, Alexander
Gregorson; 7 sergeants, and 131 rank and file. It is well known
that the Highlanders distinguished themselves as usual on this
occasion when, according to the "General account," Brigadier
Murray briskly advanced with those under his command, among whom
were our countrymen, and soon broke the centre of the enemy, "when
the Highlanders, taking to their broadswords, fell in among them
with irresistible impetuosity, and drove them back with great
slaughter." The Highlanders had other opportunities of
distinguishing themselves here. In another engagement they lost in
killed Captain Donald. Macdonald of Clanranald, Lieutenant Cosrno
Gordon, and 55 non-commissioned officers and men, while among the
wounded were Colonel Fraser, Captains John Campbell of Dunoon,
Alexander Fraser, Alexander Macleod, and Charles Macdondell;
Lieutenants Archibald Campbell of Glen Lyon, Charles Stewart, who
fought at Culloden under Stewart of Appin; Hector Macdonald, John
Macbean, Alexander Fraser, senior, Simon Fraser, senior, Archibald
MacAlister, Alexander Fraser, John Chisholm, Simon Fraser, junior,
Malcolm Fraser, and Donald Macneil; Ensigns Henry Munro, Robert
Menzies, Duncan Cameron of Fassiefern, William Robertson,
Alexander Gregorson, and Malcolm Fraser, in addition to 129
non-commissioned officers and men, representing amongst them most
of the families of note in the Scottish highlands, as well, as
many of those in humbler circumstances who followed the gentlemen
of their respective clans, as of yore, to fight the battles of
their country. My interest in Quebec and its surroundings was
intense; but it centred more in the history of the dead and the
associations of the past than in those of the living and the
present. The surrounding scenery is magnificent—by far the finest
in Canada. Having spent three days about the place, on Monday
evening I left by the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada for
MONTREAL,
having crossed
over the famous Victoria Bridge which spans the St Lawrence a
short distance before you enter the city, 172 miles from Quebec. I
have already given a full description of this famous structure in
the Aberdeen Daily Free Press, which, as well as many other
details given in my series of sixteen long letters to that paper,
on "The Highlanders of Canada," I do not intend to reproduce in
these pages. Those letters were devoted more to a general
description of the country, and its advantages as a field for
emigration, while the series in the Celtic Magazine are confined
almost entirely to the more Celtic parts of the Dominion, and
personal instances of Highland success. This must be held to
account for their incomplete and fragmentary nature.
Montreal has a population of between 130,000
and 140,000, about five-eighths of whom are French, and
three-fourths Roman Catholics. It contains some very fine
churches, and other public buildings, and is, in short, the finest
city in the Dominion. The Scotch here are at the head of the
commercial and political world, and though the Highlanders are not
numerous, there are a few amongst them distinguished for
philanthropy, integrity, and wealth, The Mackays of Montreal are
known all over the world. The family originally belonged to
Kildonan, in the county of Sutherland, which they left in humble
circumstances. Joseph, one of the sons, who has since become
famous in the commercial world as a millionaire and
philanthropist, commenced life quite poor. He worked his way
steadily onwards and upwards. In 1837, when the French Canadian
rebellion broke out, we find him doing a prosperous retail
ready-made clothing and tailoring business. A large quantity of
clothing was required that year for the militia, and the Mackays
(for Edward had ere this become a partner) were successful in
getting a large contract, which turned out well. By this they made
enough money to enable them to go into the wholesale trade. The
business steadily increased, and in a few years they added the
woollen or, as it is called in Canada, the dry goods business.
They soon acquired a name for integrity and for the excellent
quality of their goods; trade increased day by day in the woollen
department of the business, and the firm rose steadily in the
estimation of the public. Ultimately the ready-made department was
given up, that the firm might be able to devote their undivided
attention to the more profitable part of their rapidly increasing
business. In a comparatively few years, they amassed a large
fortune, and four or five years ago Joseph and Edward retired in
favour of three nephews, who, for many years previously,
practically managed the business, and who now conduct the largest
dry goods, or wholesale woollen business in Canada. Joseph and
Edward are both unmarried, and live together in a noble mansion,
presided over by an amiable niece from the Scottish Highlands. I
had the pleasure of partaking of their hospitality, after which
Edward drove me round the suburbs, and to Mount Royal, overlooking
the city, from which I obtained a most magnificent view of it and
of the country for hundreds of miles in all directions. Edward is
one of the directors of the Bank Of Montreal; and he has occupied
many other important positions of trust in the city. Joseph built,
two years ago, the Mackay Institution for Protestant Deaf Mutes at
a cost of over 15,000 dollars, and then precented it absolutely to
the Association for teaching the deaf and dumb. The building will
accommodate about 100 inmates, and the pupils are taught printing
and other useful trades, in addition to reading, writing, and
arithmetic. This is only a specimen of his munificence, for he has
given largely to other causes, both religious and charitable.
Another brother is a partner in an old and most respectable
wholesale dry goods firm—Gordon, Mackay, & Co.—in Toronto, who are
also cotton manufacturers, possessing extensive mills at Merriton,
on the Welland Canal. Mackay Brothers, when they retired, were
reputed worth over two million dollars.
The firm of James G. Mackenzie is the oldest
dry goods house in the Dominion, having been established more than
forty years ago. Mackenzie arrived in Canada with nothing but
perseverance and steady habits for his capital. He has long since
reached the summit of the commercial ladder. The firm is now
reputed to be worth from one and a-half to two million dollars—the
wealthiest in Canada since the retirement of Joseph and Edward
Mackay. One of his sons represented the Electoral Division of
Montreal West in the Dominion House of Commons. Two of them were
Captains in the 5th Royal Scots Fusiliers, the crack volunteer
corps of Montreal, indeed of Canada, and served with their
regiment on active service during the Fenian raids of 1866 and
1870. Another wholesale dry goods man, who retired from business
about two years ago with a fortune of about 200,000 dollars,
deserves notice. James Roy was a native of Dunfermline, and he
landed in Canada with a pack of fine linen on his back. He
continued to perambulate in and about Montreal for a few years;
afterwards went into the retail dry goods business, and rapidly
rose to be one of the leading merchants of the city. Ultimately he
went into the wholesale trade, and, although his business never
approached the magnitude of the firms already named, it was
prosperous and lucrative; and Mr Roy was considered one of the
most upright and straightforward business men in the city. Another
self-made Scot is Andrew Robertson, of the firm of Robertson,
Linton, & Co., who was for several years President of the Dominion
Board of Trade, and occupied many other most important and
influential positions. James Johnston came to Montreal about forty
years ago without a penny. About five years after he founded the
firm of James Johnston & Co., now reputed worth over a million. He
commenced as a clerk, and, saving a few hundred dollars, began
business on his own account in a very small way, but gradually and
surely established a reputation for the very best goods, at paying
prices—a reputation which he has carried through his whole
business career; and to-day the firm of James Johnston & Co.
stands unrivalled in the Dominion for high class goods, for choice
and varied assortment, and for the systematic conduct of their
business. Mr Johnston owns the fine cut stone warehouse in which
he conducts his business, as well as his princely residence on
Mount Royal, which perhaps equals in magnificence that of the
great Joseph Mackay himself.Mr Johnston also became famous in
connec- tion with the celebrated Pew Case—Johnston v. Gavin Lang
and the Trustees of St Andrew's Church. In the other trades,
especially in the grocery busihess, quite as many successful
self-made xen can be found. Among other prosperous Highlanders
whom I had the pleasure of meeting in this city was John
Macdonald, a most enterprising and rising accountant, and a native
of Tam, Ross-shire. He belongs to the aristocracy of intellect,
and I was proud to hear a native of my own county so highly spoken
of among the elite of Montreal. Ewen Maclennan, whose father went
out from Kintail, spoke Gaelic purer than some of his West-Coast
relations of the present day. He takes a leading part among the
patriotic Scots of the city, and has long ago occupied all the
posts of honour which the St Andrew's Society could confer upon
him—a Society which does more real good than any other on the
American continent; but having already described at length its
operations and that of the St Andrew's Hothé in the Free Press, I
must here pass it over. Among other genuine Highlanders and most
useful citizens whom I had the pleasure of meeting were Alexander
MacGibbon, a native of Perthshire; Alexander Mackenzie, merchant,
a native of Beauly; and Alex. Murray, bookseller, a Perthshire
Celt. Last, but not least, I had a most pleasant chat with D.
Macmaster, a young but distinguished and rising barrister, and a
member of the local Parliament for his native county of Glengarry,
who a week afterwards paid rue the compliment of travelling
fifty-four miles to Lancaster to hear my lecture on "Flora
Macdonald and Prince Charles."
The last night I was in the city I had the
great gratification of attending in the drill hall of the 5th
Royal Scots Fusiliers, already referred to, where I have seen them
put through the usual exercises by Colonel Crawford, their
commandant. This crack regiment is composed entirely of Scotsmen
and Scottish Canadians, who wear the undress Highland
uniform—Campbell tartan trews and plaid, with scarlet scalloped
tunic, and Glengarry bonnet. No. 1 company has among its members
40 men who had served with the 78th Highlanders under Sir Henry
Havelock at Lucknow and Cawnpore; and whose manly breasts are well
decorated with medals and clasps for distinguished service; while
No. 6 company is composed entirely of old 42d or "Black Watch"
veterans. The others are largely made up of men who fought for
their Queen in some part or other of the great and glorious Empire
of which the Canadian is so proud to form a part. The pipers wore
the kilt, one of them being Duncan Macneil, an old pupil of
Pipe-Major Alexander Maclennan, Inverness; the other, whose name I
forget, an old veteran of the 78th, and for many years a companion
of Pipe-Major Ronald Mackenzie, late of the Buffs, at now of the
Highland Rifle Militia. Another 78th man—Sergeant Major Fraser,
and who holds the same position, while he is at the same time
Sergeant-Instructor, in the Scots Fusiliers—I found to be a native
of Castle Street, Inverness. The period of service of these men
expired when their respective regiments were last in Montreal, and
they settled down in the place, where almost all of them are doing
remarkably well This fine regiment recently held a meeting for the
purpose of considering the desirability of procuring kilts in time
for a proposed visit to Toronto and Niagara in the spring, and
from the spirit shown there is little doubt that they will decide
upon completing their Highland costume in time to enable them to
visit their friends in Ontario, and parade its capital in the
"Garb of old Gaul." I could have spent several more days in
Montreal with profit and pleasure, but time was on the wing, and I
had yet barely entered Canada proper, The celebrated Highland
settlement of Glengarry, fifty-four miles further west, on the
Grand Trunk Railway, was to be my next place of call. I was
informed by Mr Macmaster, M.P., that his colleague Mr Maclennan,
M.P. for Glengarry in the Dominion Parliament, was in the city,
and would be going on that evening to Glengarry. I was fortunate
enough to inset and to secure an introduction to him on the
platform before the train started. At first I found him somewhat
reserved, but he soon melted down; when I found his father was a
native of Kintail; and I afterwards learned that the son was very
wealthy and highly respected throughout the county, irrespective
of party politics. We had a most agreeable chat during the greater
part of the journey, and he gave me the names of several of the
most prominent Highlanders in the county, in addition to those
whose names I already had. In a few hours I found myself in
Lancaster, a thriving village on the eastern border of
THE COUNTY OF GLENGARRY,
and I at once made for the principal hotel,
kept, as I was informed in Montreal, by an excellent
Gaelic-speaking Highlander, and a Macrae, whose father, in 1806,
emigrated from Kintail. I saluted my host in my native Gaelic, to
which he responded in pure Kintail vernacular; for one of the
peculiarities you meet with throughout the whole Dominion, is to
find the children and even the grandchildren of the origini-settlers
speaking the dialect of their respective districts in Scotland; so
that you meet with half-a-dozen or more different dialects in the
same village or township. Any one acquainted with the various
districts in the Scottish Highlands can therefore almost at once
tell what part of the country the ancestors of the parties he is
addressing originally came from I was at once made quite at home,
after my host had insisted upon carrying out the good old practice
of his Scottish ancestors, by reminding xu "gur luaithe dèoch na
sgiala," and at once, suiting the action to the word, offering me
a "druthag" out of his private bottle. That evening and next
morning I was introduced to scores of fine Highlanders in the
village, Macphersons, whose ancestors came from Badenoch,
predominating; one of them being no less than a grand-nephew of
the famous "Black Officer" of black art and Gaick celebrity. Here
I had a visit from a Mr Allan Grant, whose grandfather was Donald
Grant of Crasky, Glenmoriston, and one of those heroes of the
"Forty-five" who sheltered Prince Charles Edward in the cave of
Corombian, when wandering about, life in hand, after the Battle of
Culloden, before he succeeded in effecting his escape to the Outer
Hebrides, He emigrated to the States, and was one of the patriotic
band known as the United Empire Loyalists, who would not remain in
the States after they were lost to the British crown, and who went
to various parts of Canada where they received grants of land from
the British Government. Donald Grant, with several others, went to
Glengarry, where 1000 acres were allotted to him, 200 of which
fell into the possession of my visitor----his grandson; Allan
Grant.
It is
commonly reported that Donald could spin a good yarn, one of
which, in connection with the pilgrimage of the U.E. Loyalists
from the States to Canada, will bear telling. On one occasion the
Catholic Bishop was in Donald's neighbourhood, and knowing that he
was rather fond of relating the hardships endured by the Loyalists
on their way to Glengarry, wider his leadership, the good Bishop
called upon him and introduced the subject Donald was proud of his
exploits, and the great success which had attended himself and his
devoted followers; and he always related the hardships and
hairbreadth escapes which they experienced with unfeigned
pleasure. As he advanced in years they seemed to have grown upon
him, until at last they appeared to others almost bordering on the
miraculous. When he had finished the description of the journey
through the trackless forest in glowing colours, the Bishop in
blank amazement, said -" Why, dear me, Donald, your exploits seem
almost to have equalled even those of Moses himself when leading
the children of Israel through the Wilderness from Egypt to the
Land of Promise." "Moses," exclaimed the Highlander, adding two
emphatic short words, to which the ears of his reverence were not
much accustomed; "Why," said Grant, with an unmistakeable air of
contempt, "Moses took forty years in his vain attempts to lead his
men over a much shorter distance, and through a mere trifling
wilderness in comparison with mine, and he never did reach his
destination. I brought my people here without the loss of a single
man." The answer made by the Bishop is not recorded; but he
afterwards used to tell the story with evident gusto, and to the
great amusement of his hearers.
Having arranged for a lecture here and at
Alexandria, I went on to Ottawa, where I spent a few days. On my
return, my host kindly offered to drive me himself through the
county, and to introduce me to the leading Highlanders. On
Wednesday, the 29th of October, we started for Alexandria, 14
miles inland, behind a splendid pair of horses, calling upon some
genuine Celts on our way. A few miles out we passed a very fine
farm of 400 acres owned, occupied, and capitally farmed by Donald
Maclennan, whose father emigrated from Kintail without a cent.
Shortly after this we called on Christopher Macrae, Glenroy, who
has a fine farm and keeps the district shop or store. We were
hospitably entertained by his better-half, and I had a most
interesting chat with his father, a fine old gentleman, 93 years
of age, who left Glenelchaig in Kintail in 1821. The venerable
sire, I had been told, was full of old lore and Highland
tradition; but my time was too limited to enable me to get him
into the proper groove, which I very much regret Another of his
sons, Duncan, owns the fine farm of Glen- Nevis, the whole family
being exceedingly comfortable and well-to-do. Another worthy
specimen of the good old stock of Kintail Macraes, and with whom I
had the pleasure of travelling from Lancaster to Kingston, was D.
A. Macrae, a fine young fellow, whose father left Morvich, Kintail,
about 50 years ago, and who now owns a fine farm of 400 acres,
nearly the whole of which is cultivated. By the time we left
Glenroy, it was getting dark, and we drove right on to Alexandria,
where we took up our quarters at the St Lawrence Hotel, a
comfortable hostelry kept by another Gaelic-speaking Highlander,
Angus MacdonelL Having seen several of the leading citizens of
Alexandria next morning, I started for a drive some twenty miles
into the back settlements of the county, where I had the pleasure
of meeting some genuine old Colts. Among them I would notice
Norman Macleod, Laggan, a native of Gleneig; and Captain
Mackenzie, a fine old veteran 93 years of age. I found Mackenzie
to be a native of Contin, Ross-shire; but brought up in Lochbroom.
He subsequently became a soldier, and was in the British army when
Napoleon I. was a prisonerin Elba, a period of his life of which
my venerable namesake was so full that I could hardly induce him
to talk about anything else. He was the second who turned a sod in
the back part of Glengarry county, to which he found his way by
pure accident, having loot his way in the forest for three days
and nights trying to find his way to a place more than a hundred
miles in the opposite direction. When he left this country he was
so poor that he could not pay for his passage across; but the
Captain of a sailing ship in Greenock gave him credit until he was
afterwards able to pay him. He is now in affluent circumstances,
possessing an excellent farm of his own, and has been able to
start several sons in farms of their own equally good. After a
most pleasant drive to Lochiel and the surrounding country, I
returned to Alexandria, where I delivered my lecture to an
appreciative audience of as genuine a type of Highlanders as ever
drew breath.
In the
morning before starting for Lochiel, a deputation waited upon me
to know if I had any engagements in the evening, after my lecture;
and, answering in the negative, I was told that they would be glad
then to spend an hour with me. What was my surprise to find a
really good piper, and a Macdonald, at the door of the hail ready
to play us to the hotel immediately after my lecture, and there to
find supper laid for about forty-five gentlemen who were good
enough to entertain me thus as the guest of the Highlanders of
Alexandria. The chair was taken by Mr Angus Macdonald, a fine
Highlander and a prominent official in the place, supported by
John Macdougald, whose grandfather left the Island of Eigg, in
1788, for Sydney, Nova Scotia, and in 1793 went to Glengarry and
settled there. His mother I found was one of the United Empire
Loyalists already referred to, descended from the Camerons of
Fassiefern. Mr Macdougald possesses his grandfather's original
property in Glengarry. Donald Macmillan, M.D., who presided at the
lecture, was croupier at the supper, and added much to our
entertainment by his singing in fine voice and spirit some
excellent Gaelic songs. Among the company was also the grandson,
A. B. Macdonald, of the first white man born in Glengarry. His
great-grandfather emigrated from Morar without means of any kind,
but having been in the army he had free land allotted to him and
he died worth property valued at £2000. The great-grandson became
partner, and is now the successor, in the extensive and lucrative
business long carried on by the Hon. Donald Macdonald, the present
Lieutenant- Governor of Ontario; and is rapidly amassing a
fortune. Among others present were Colin D. Chisholm, clerk to the
District Court—a cousin of our own Colin Chisholm, and almost as
enthusiastic and as well informed a Colt as the ox-President of
the Gaelic Society of London himself; Dr Alexander R. Macdonell,
and several other warm-hearted fellows whose names I did not
manage to carry along with me. There were, however, two Southern
Scots present, who had settled down among the Highlanders of
Alexandria, and who appeared to be in spirit as genuine Celts as
the rest, viz., Charles H. Connon, M.A., and Edward H, Tiffany,
both barristars practising in the county. The oratorical ability
displayed was really marvellous in such an out-of-the-way place as
Alexandria, containing only about 1000 inhabitants, and such as
would put many whowould-be-considered-orators in more pretentious
places at home to shame. I gave, expression here for the first
time to my views and feelings repecting the manner in which
successive governments of Canada discouraged and otherwise treated
Highland immigrants, while they had acted in a manner entirely
different to the Russian Memnonites and Icelanders; and the
enthusiastic sympathy displayed by my fellow countrymen of
Alexandria at once convinced me that the Highlander of Canada only
wants to have this dereliction on the part of the Government
pointed out to him to have the present system of giving his
countrymen the cold shoulder condemned and reversed. It was
proposed and seconded, there and then, that those present should
form themselves into a Society for educating public opinion on the
point, and I learned after I left that they met on the following
evening and formed themselves into the nucleus of a Caledonian
Society. My driver, who knew all present, informed me that the
company amongst them represented accumulated property worth about
a quarter of a million sterling. I parted with them next morning
with very genuine regret, and not without hope of again seeing
them in the hospitable capital of Glengarry county.
I, learned that John Murdoch of the
Highlander had passed through the village that morning in the
mail-gig, while I was away in the district of Lochiel, and that he
had gone on. some miles, to visit Mr Cattanach, an old Badenoch
Celt, who lived at Laggan, so called by him in commemoration of
his native place in the old country. I was naturally anxious to
see the Ard-Albannach, and made my driver go several miles out of
his way to overtake him at Laggan or meet him on his way beck; and
meet him we did, Mr Cattanach driving him back to Alexandria. I
requested my driver to go into Cattanach's machine, while Fear-an-fheilidh
came in with rue. I then turned round my team in the direction in
which the Highlander was going, and thus had about half-an-hour of
him. I had about 30 miles to go in another direction, and, as he
was going direct to Lancaster, where I was engaged to lecture that
evening, we agreed to meet there and compare notes, after such a
long absence from home and from each other, and to talk over our
new and varied experiences. Alter a long drive through the county
to the west, and making several calls on the way, I arrived in the
afternoon at Williamston, a village only 4 miles from Lancaster,
where we obtained refreshments for man and beast at the hostelry
of another good Hie'lanman—John J. Macdonald, Glencoe House, who,
like most of my friends, had succeeded in feathering his nest
pretty well. Having made a few other calls, Mr Macrae soon rattled
into Lancaster. The Ard-Albannach arrived a few minutes after us.
In the evening, I delivered my promised lecture, for which I was
by no means in good form; but the Highlander and D. Macmaster,
M.P. for the County, who came all the way from Montreal to meet
me, addressed the audience, and thus enabled me to drop easy. My
old travelling companion, Mr Maclennan, M.P. for Glengarry in the
Dominion Parliament, came several miles 'to preside at our
meeting; and my only regret in connection with my visit to this
Highland settlement is my inability to call upon him at his own
house, agreeably to his repeated requests that I should do so, The
Mine evening and next morning I met a few more fine specimens of
the good old stock, among them A. S. Macdonald, from the West
Coast of Inverness-shire, proprietor of the Commercial Hotel;
Duncan Macarthur, merchant, Alexandria, whom I missed when there;
A. B. Maclennan of Glen-Gordon, originally from Kintail; and no
end of Macphersons, whose forbears came from Badenoch, all in
excellent circumstances.
Glengarry has produced another fine
Gaelic-speaking family—the Sansfield Macdonalds—who rose from the
ranks to the very highest positions in the Dominion. One of them
lived close to Lancaster; but I was unfortunate enough to miss
him. Another died Premier a few years ago; while a third is the
Hon. Donald Macdonald, the present Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario,
one of the most popular, genial, and warm-hearted Highlanders in
the whole Dominion. Their ancestors came originally from Knoydart,
in the county of Inverness; and their father commenced life in
very humble circumstances, and became a farmer at Sansfield's
Corner, Glengarry, from which place the family took the addition
to their original and simple name of Macdonald, to distinguish
them from the legion of the same name in Canada—many of whom are
in high positions like themselves.
The farms throughout this Highland county is
laid out in 150 acre lots, and the people are very comfortable
throughout Not only in politics but in most other walks of life it
has turned out many who have distinguished themselves in other
parts of Canada. A mistaken idea has got abroad, no doubt in
consequence of the name, that most of the people came originally
from Glengarry in the Old Country; but this is not the case, the
great majority of them being from Lochaber, Morar, Moidart,
Knoydart, Gleneig, Kintail and Badenoch. I could say a great deal
more which would redound to their credit, but I must at present
pass on, and introduce you, in my next, to some of the Highlanders
of Ottawa, Kingston, and Toronto.
V.
While In the district of Glengarry I paid a
visit to Cornwall, fourteen miles distant, a village of between
3000 and 4000 inhabitants, and the Capital of the three counties
of Glengarry, Dundas, and Stormont. It is situated at the mouth of
the Cornwall Canal—just where it enters the St Lawrence, and
contains several large mills and factories, including one of the
largest woollen factories in Canada, and extensive cotton mills.
There are also two newspapers representing the two political
parties; one, the Reporter, on the Conservative side, edited by an
exceedingly genial and courteous Highlander named Macfarlane,
while the Freeholder, on the Liberal side, is owned and conducted
by H. Sansfleld Macdonald, son of the late Premier of Canada, and
one of the firm of Macdonald & Maclennan, barristers, the other
member being a brother of A. B. Maclennan, Glen-Gordon, Glengarry,
originally from KintaiL Macdonald I found at first somewhat
distant and reserved, looking at me exactly as if he thought I was
going to ask him to lend me a thousand dollars; but having told
him that I wanted a little printing done, for which .1 suggested
payment in advance, he became quite pleasant, referred me to his
foreman in the printing-office, and was condescending enough to
inform me that he took very little interest in the paper, and that
he only kept it on for his own amusement, as he was perfectly
independent of anything it might bring him in the way of income. I
naturally envied his position, and congratulated him mentally on
his good fortune in having had a father who was able to leave him
in such happy affluence. I paid his foreman lOs 6d for a small
printing job that I could have got at home, at most, for 4s; but
my editorial confrere, originally so unbending, having discovered
who I was, became in a very few minutes most agreeably gracious;
and in his paper next morning he gave me a most flattering
paragraph, so that the printing was cheap after all. Mr
Macfarlane, on the other hand, at first refused to take anything
for an advertisement which I requested him to insert; but having
declined such favours from one whom I never had seen before, he
finally accepted a dollar for space which in the regular way would
have cost me three times that amount. I was informed that there
were some real good Colts in Cornwall, and I had introductions to
the Rev. Dr Macnish, and to Sheriff Macintyre, to the former from
the Rev. Donald Masson, M.A., M.D., Edinburgh, and to the latter
from another mutual friend; but I missed them both. I intended to
have gone back, but the place had such a depressing influence upon
me that, though I passed it twice a few days after, I could not
muster courage enough to pay a second visit to the only part of
the whole Dominion where I thought the place and people—so far as
I had seen them, except Mr Macfarlane—equally flat. For this I am
most likely to blame, unless it be to some extent attributable to
the fact that a brutal murderer, who had killed his father and an
innocent little sister, was lodged in prison in the town, where he
was executed a few days after; and this naturally, perhaps,
induced a gloomy mental atmosphere in a town where no execution
had taken place for forty years before. I also, as stated in my
last, took a run from Glengarry to
OTTAWA,
the Capital of the Dominion, taking the
Grand Trunk to Prescott, a distance of 58 miles, and from thence
by the St Lawrence and Ottawa Railway, some 54 miles, to the
Capital, where I arrived on 25th of October, at 4 P.M., after a
run of five hours through a fiat and uninteresting country. This
short railway of 54 miles actually cuts all that in habitable of
the vast Dominion of Canada, at this point, right across from
south to north, the portion beyond being an endless mountainous
and unreclaimable region, valuable, however, for its great
forests, the proceeds of which find, their way to Ottawa by the
river of that name and the Gatineau. The character of the country
here impressed me with the idea that Nature never intended North
British America to be one vast country under one Government; and
that ultimately, as the population increased, all below Ottawa and
to the east would become one, if not several powerful nations;
while that part of the Dominion to the west and north-west would
form several great nations, each province becoming independent,
possessing a Government of its own.
On my arrival in the Capital I found a
gentleman with whom I had previous correspondence awaiting me at
the station. Indeed were it not for him I would not have gone
there at all; and I am under a debt of gratitude to him, which I
shall never forget, for inducing me to visit a city which, if I
could only know what I would have lost, I would not have passed
upon any account. All I knew of him was his name, A. M. Burgess,
and the position which he held in the Capital of Canada as the
Official Secretary of the Ministry of the Interior. I soon
discovered that he was a native of Strathspey, who had gone out to
seek his fortune, like most of our countrymen, his capital
consisting solely of perseverance, steady habits, and average
natural ability. He at once insisted upon ray becoming his guest.
I soon found myself quite at home, and well entertained by his
most intelligent and kindly better-half, whom I discovered to be
the daughter of a newspaper proprietor in Portsoy, Banffshire;
while his mother, who only some six or seven years ago left
Strathspey to end her days with her dutiful son in the Far West,
positively delighted me with her Inverness-shire Gaelic. Mr
Burgess was originally on the staff of the Globe as its leading
Parliamentary reporter in the Capital, after which he started and
continued to publish the Canadian Hansard, and subsequently became
the proprietor of the Ottawa Free Press. The latter did not prove
successful; but being a strenuous supporter of the late Mackenzie
Administration, Mr Burgess secured the appointment of Private
Secretary to the Minister of the Interior, and was soon after
promoted to the more responsible and permanent position of
Official Secretary to the Department.
In the evening I met Mr Kinloch, Private
Secretary to Sir John A. Macdonald, K.C.B., Premier of Canada, and
several other gentlemen connected with the various Government
departments, and with the press; as also Mr Rogers, of Rogers &
Maclean, Government printers (originally from Dundee), who invited
a few friends to meet us at dinner next evening. I afterwards met
his partner Maclean, a native of Mull. Their fine printing
establishment is quite abreast of the times, all the machinery and
plant being of the most modern description, with the latest
improvements introduced into all the departments. Among other
Highlanders which it was my agreeable lot to meet here was Mr
Macleod Stewart, a wealthy barrister, and a warm-hearted Celt,
descended from the Stewarts of Appin; and Mr Macdougall,
Auditor-General for the Dominion. The Mayor of the city, who is
also editor and proprietor of the leading Conservative paper, was
a Borlum, or ilolme Mackintosh (I forget which), and a near
relative of our own popular MY., Charles Fraser- Mackintosh of
Drummond. Another leading Celt, holding a good position in local
politics, with whom I had a chat, is Alderman Masson, a native of
the Black Isle, Ross-shire, and a cousin of the Rev. Dr Masson, of
the Gaelic Church, Edinburgh. But really the Celt meets you
everywhere in the Dominion, and the reader who has followed me in
these sketches will not be surprised to find him at the very top
of the political world of Canada.
The Marquise of Lorne, heir to the Dukedom
of Argyll, is Governor- General, while Sir John A. Macdonald,
K.C.B., another distinguished Highlander, is Premier of the great
Dominion. His Excellency having seen by the morning papers that I
was the guest of Mr Burgess of the Interior Department, on Monday
morning, sent several messages to the office before we arrived
there, intimating his desire to see me at his residence, Rideau
Hall (two miles out), and that he would be glad to receive me from
twelve o'clock to two P.M. Just as we entered the office his
official secretary, Mr Kidd, came in to make further enquiry, and
I at once started, arriving there exactly at noon. In a few
minutes I was ushered into the presence of vice-Royalty. A genuine
hearty shake of the hand and a graceful, easy, unpretentious
manner on the part of his Excellency at once placed me at perfect
ease. All ceremony was set aside, and the Queen's son-in-law, the
Governor-General of this vast territory, acted and spoke as if he
were the humblest of her Majesty's subjects. Here was one who
traces his descent through forty-eight generations to Constantine
(who died early in the fifth century), and in whose veins
circulates the blood of William the Conqueror and of the Bruce;
whose consort is her Majesty's favourite daughter; and who governs
the greatest of our British Colonies; sitting beside you—talking
in the simplest manner—in the most gentle tone—without the
slightest air of superiority, about his brother Highlanders
atliomo—those who settled in the Dominion; but especially those
who left his own property in Tir and other parts of Argyleshire,
and who emigrated and settled down in Canada, as if he were a mere
ordinary subject of the Queen. I was never so much struck with the
impassable gulf that exists, and must continue to exist, between
the real gentleman, born and bred, and the snob who prides himself
on his mere possession of filthy lucre. He talked freely about
Canada and its magnificent prospects; the warm reception which the
people accorded to himself and to his royal consort on their
arrival; and at every place which they had since visited; the
advantages of the Dominion as a field for emigration, especially
for Highlanders, who, he said, he would be glad to welcome there
as Governor- General of Canada, though as a Highlander he would be
very sorry to part with them at home. I asked if it was not
possible to extend any special encouragement to the Highlanders of
Scotland such as the Government had already given to the
Mennonites and Icelanders? I received pretty much the answer which
I expected: That that was entirely a question of Government policy
carried on by responsible Ministers, and in which he, even were he
disposed, as the representative of a constitutional Sovereign,
could not interfere. He was good enough not only to give me all
the in- formation that I asked for, but offered me while in Ottawa
the use of valuable papers and memoranda in connection with
emigration which were prepared for his own special use, and of
which I gladly availed myself. He also offered me letters of
introduction to the leading men in Canada on either side of
politics whom I might wish to see. I took advantage of this kind
offer to some extent; but I felt that it would not suit me to go
about with many introductions from his Excellency, or I might be
considered a much more important personage than I really was, and
my object in securing the class of information which I wanted
might be defeated. I afterwards discovered that the honour
conferred upon me was a very special one; for hundreds, I was
told, attempted to secure an interview with his Lordship without
the slightest chance, in most cases, of obtaining their object;
while I, no doubt more as an humble representative of the readers
of the Celtw Magazine than on any personal grounds, had such a
high, unexpected, and unsolicited honour forced upon me. I felt
that I was occupying his valuable time too long, but was told
repeatedly that he had arranged to place himself at my disposal
from twelve to two o'clock, during most of which time our
conversation never Bagged, and I left with a very high opinion of
our distinguished and exalted countryman. He expressed his great
interest in some of his father's tenants who left Tires several
years ago, and settled down in the districts of Huron and Bruce,
where they are very comfortable, and desired me to pay them a
visit if I possibly could. And I regret much that, though I was
afterwards very near them, at Kincardine, on Lake Huron, the time
at my disposal did not admit of my paying the Tiree Settlement a
visit Though myself a Campbell on the mother side, I never was a
great admirer of some of the leading members of the clan, but I
must honestly admit that my interview with the future MacCailean
Mor has very much raised his and my own mother's clan in my
estimation. But, as I have already indicated, the Governor-
General is not the only Highlander high up the political ladder in
Canada. Next to him in position, and possessing infinitely more
power and political influence, as in all limited monarchies, comes
Sir John A. MACDONLD,
K.G.B., Prime Minister of the whole Dominion, a thorough
Highlander, born in the county of Sutherland, on the 11th January
1815, shortly after which his father, Hugh Macdonald, emigrated to
Canada and settled in Kingston, Ontario, where the son was
educated at the Royal Grammar School He studied for the law, was
called to the bar of Upper Canada in 1836, and became a Q.C. in
1846, by which time he had entered on the political career in
which he has since so much distinguished himself. Returning from
my interview with the Governor-General, I found a note awaiting me
from the Private Secretary of the Premier, intimating that Sir
John wished to see me at ten o'clock next morning, at his private
residence. I called at the appointed time, and was received in the
most gracious manner by our distinguished countryman, already busy
among his despatches, and giving instructions to a couple of
secretaries. We had a most agreeable conversation about Canada,
emigration, the Highlanders at home, and his own extraordinary
career—the details and principal incidents of which he at ray
request agreed to supply me with, so as to enable me to prepare a
sketch of him for my forthcoming "History of the Macdonalds." I at
once discovered the secret of his marvellous success as a
politician—his peculiarly agreeable and affable manner. Sir John
is a man made to rule, and he does it, compelling even his most
bitter opponents to admit that in twisting them round his fingers,
he mystifies them in the most agreeable manner. As a Highlander I
felt proud of the position occupied by my brother countryman - a
position attained without any aristocratic or influential
connections, and entirely due to his own native ability. But Sir
John Macdonald is not the only humble Highlander who worked
himself up to be Premier of Canada. The Hon. Alexander Mackenzie,
a native of Logiemit, Perthshire, and originally a stone mason,
only retired from the Premiership less than two years ago; and
apparently it matters not what party here is in power, a
Highlander must occupy the highest place. The Premier must in
either case be a Macdonald or a Mackenzie, representing here on a
small scale the strifes and feuds of their respective clans in the
past; with this difference, however, that in their ancient
contentions the Mackenzies managed to get the better of their
opponents by political shrewdness and far-seeing policy, while
these qualities, so necessary to the successful politician in
Canada as elsewhere, seem to be better understood and practised
more in modem Canadian politics by the Macdonalds.
While in the Capital eight of us had a most
agreeable drive for ten miles alongside the River Gatineau, until
we almost touched the fringe of the endless wilderness which
begins here and ends only at the North Pole. I extract the
following description of the city and of the Houses of Parliament
from one of my own letters to the Aberdeen Free Press, believing
it will prove interesting to the reader.-" Ottawa is a small city,
with, in 1871, a population of about 30,000, and that number,
during the last few years, has been rapidly decreasing—as many, it
is said, as 5000 in five years. To this number may be added,
however, the population of Hull, a town on the opposite side of
the river, connected by a suspension bridge and steam ferry-boat,
containing about 10,000, and one or two suburban villages, with
about a thousand souls each. The only business of importance
carried on in the city and neghbourhood is lumbering, which is a
great and important industry. There are several large firms,
possessing very extensive saw-mills. It has been computed that for
a few years prior to 1871, when the timber trade was in a
prosperous state, over 80,000,000 cubic feet of timber have been
out down in the forests of Canada; that 16,000 men were employed
cutting it in the forests; 10,000 men in the saw and planing
mills; and 17,000 sailors employed in 1200 ships, carrying across
the Atlantic a portion of this huge quantity to the United
Kingdom; the productions of the forest thus affording employment
to 50,000 men annually. A very large proportion of this production
was in the neighbourhood and in the city of Ottawa; and, even now,
when the trade is very depressed, you can see thousands upon
thousands of piles in and about the city waiting for a market
which it is difficult for the uninitiated to believe can ever be
found for such an enormous quantity. There is, too, a pail
factory, which turns out over 2000 pails, and 150 washing tubs per
day; a match manufactory, the largest in Canada, turning out over
2000 boxes per day, and a few other minor factories.
The surroundings are on the whole, excepting
Cape Breton and the Bras D'or Lakes, the finest, and those which
remind one of some of the most beautiful scenes in Scotland, which
I have seen as yet on this Continent. There are some very
respectable hills—here called mountains—an undulating, partly
wooded country; and the rivers, though small for Canadian rivers,
are in comparison to ours magnificent. The Ottawa is navigable by
large steamers for about 150 miles above Montreal (where it joins
the St Lawrence) to the city, except for a few miles where they
have to pass through a canal to escape the rapids. At Ottawa there
is a fine fall and some rapids; but after you pass these for a few
miles by rail, the river is again navigable for over 200 miles,
right into the centre of the country. The Parliamentary buildings,
three large and fine looking blocks some distance apart, occupy a
most prominent and commanding position on an elevated plateau
overlooking the river on one side and the city on the other. They
are seen for many miles before you reach the city, and are built
on a scale of magnificence which to the visitor appears most
extravagant, except on the assumption that this is, in the future,
to be one of the greatest countries in the world. The style is
Gothic; but though it looks very fine from without, it has the
drawback of making the corridors and offices inside appear dull
and badly lighted. Though on a smaller scale the buildings look,
in consequence of the locality and surroundings, even more
imposing than those at Westminster. I much prefer, however, the
arrangements in our own Houses of Parliament—so much more
substantial and comfortable, and at the same time more sumptuously
and elegantly furnished, especially in our Upper House. The
Supreme Court here, however, which is in the building, is a
perfect gem of a place, and superior for comfort, elegance, and
good taste to anything we can show at home; while the Library in
quite unique, unlike anything of the kind in existence. The latter
must be seen; no description can do it justice. The main building,
in which the Houses of Parliament, the Supreme Court, and the
Library are situated, covers an area of 82,666 superficial feet,
is 472 feet in length, and 582 feet in depth from the front of the
main tower to the rear of the Library. It is 40 feet high, with an
imposing tower over the entrance, 180 feet high. The lobby is
supported by massive pillars of native marble, beautifully
polished, while the corridors around both Houses are ornamented
with a complete set of fine paintings of the Speakers of both
Houses, from the first Speaker of the Dominion Parliament, down to
the present holder of that distinguished office. The buildings
form three sides of a square, the one already described forming
the centre. The eastern block contains the Governor's offices and
those the Privy Council, Interior, Justice, Secretary of State,
Finance, and Inland Revenue; while the western building contains
the offices of Public Works, Railways and Canals, Post-Office,
Customs, Military and Defence, and Agriculture and Emigration,
forming a pile of buildings which seems altogether out of
proportion to the present requirements of Canada, and erected in
an out-of-the-way and inconvenient locality, in a city making no
progress in population or in any other respect, and which from its
position, depending almost entirely on the timber trade—which must
ere long become exhausted—cannot be expected to make any great
progress in the future. It seems a pity that such a magnificent
pile of buildings was not erected in a central place, where it
could be seen and admired by the mass of the Canadian people,
whose patriotism would necessarily be strengthened by such noble
buildings, and by visitors who could not but admire the enterprise
and trust in the future which raised such a splendid edifice." I
met with the greatest civility in all the Government departments;
but I am especially indebted to Colonel Dennis, Deputy-Minister of
the Interior, and to Mr Lowe of the Emigration Department, for
placing at my disposal all the information in their possession on
the sub- jects in which I was more particularly interested. Having
had lunch with his Worship the Mayor, on Tuesday, the 28th of
October, I left on my way back to Glengarry, where I met the
Highlander, as described in my previous letter. On Saturday
following we left together for Kingston, the ancient capital of
Upper Canada, 105 miles further west, to pay our respects to a
Highlander who has distinguished himself in a very different
field—the well-known Gaelic bard,
EVAN MACCOLL. Since I began to read, "Eoghainn
MacColla" and his "Clarsach nam Beann" were names as familiar to
me as "Uilliain Ros" and "Feasgar Luain," and to see the sweet
bard of Lochfyne in the flesh, and in his own house, was the most
central object in my Canadian tour. About five o'clock in the
afternoon the train pulled up at Kingston station; and there he
was waiting for us, a smartly habilitated, lively, nervous-looking
Highlander of middle stature, in Glengarry bonnet We could not
mistake him, though we had never seen him. We involuntarily
stepped forward to meet one another; and what a meeting and warm
greeting. Knowing his age, sixty-seven, and his occupation, I
expected to have met a portly, stiffish, and formal old man; but
there he was, trim and sprightly as a mavis, and looking at least
fifteen years younger than he really is. We are soon in his cosy
habitation, warmly welcomed by his better-half—a superior woman,
whose sole object in life seems to be the happiness and
gratification of her husband; and her natural shrewdness has
evidently taught her that the surest way of doing so was by giving
full scope to her own inclinations in extending a hearty reception
and genuine hospitality to his friends. Nothing was too good for
us. The whole family had apparently but one object in view—to make
us feel at home from home. Here I remained for three days— three
of the happiest in my life—in the society of one who possessed the
genuine poetic spark, and in a home where childhood's days were
vividly brought back to my recollection, seeing the fine old
Highland custom of family worship conducted and shared in by
certain members of the family in a manner which I had not
elsewhere seen and enjoyed since I had left the home of my parents
many years ago in my native vale in Wester Ross.
I was grieved to find the bard almost
struggling with existence. After a long period of service in the
Customs, he was still working hard and constant for the small
pittance of £150 a year. The Muse is apparently not appreciated in
the Dominion so highly as one could wish, otherwise Evan MacColl
would not have been neglected as he has hitherto been by those—his
brother Celts—who have occupied place and power in Canada, and
who, you would have thought, might be expected to appreciate
literary and poetic talent in the person of a bard who, though
hitherto neglected, will undoubtedly live in the memory and
affection of future generations of his countrymen, when Premiers,
and even Governor-generals, shall have been forgotten. The neglect
of such a man is a positive disgrace, especially to his own
political friends, whom he served to a much greater extent than,
in his case, they deserved. A few weeks after I left Kingston I
learned that, to make his case even worse than ever, he had been
superannuated, and his income very much reduced. I had meanwhile
written to Sir John Macdonald, the present Premier, in his behalf;
asking him to rise above mere politics and do something for the
Celtic bard, who bad been so shamefully neglected by his own
political Mends. I was, however, too late. The deed had been
already done. MacColl was no longer in the Civil Service. But Sir
John kindly offered his aid in getting up a public testimonial "to
the Celtic Bard," if started by his Mends. I feel sure the mere
suggestion is sufficient. The ex- Premier, I know, will do his
share, and so in part at least make up for having overlooked the
claims of the bard when he was in a position to make some public
acknowledgment of MacColl's claims as a warm, honest, and admiring
supporter of the Hon. Alexander Mackenzie, the representative and
able exponent of Canadian Liberalism. And what a gracious and
appropriate act it would now be for the Governor-General-himself
no mean votary of the Muse—to raise his own countryman, an
Argyleshire man, a brother and more distinguished bard than
himself, to be Poet Laureate of Canada. This would, I know, be
greatly appreciated by MacCoil, and at the same time some little
compensation for put neglect of his claims.
I was glad to find that he was preparing a
new edition of his poems, which is to include at least eighty
pieces hitherto unpublished, and much superior in many respects to
anything in his previous well-known and popular."Clarsach." I
could devote a whole article to the Bard of Lochfyne, his family,
and surroundings, with great pleasure to myself; and, I feel sure,
no little gratification to many of my readers; but I hope to re-
-
turn to the subject in another form at no very distant day.
Meanwhile I would direct attention to the noble and true
description given of. him— page 198 of this issue—by his talented
daughter, Mary J. MacCoil, in the dedicatory poem to her volume of
sweet poemlets recently published, and which do credit even to the
daughter of such a father. Since the above was written, a letter
from the dear old bard reached me, which begins as follows, and
the introduction to which I have no little pleasure to insert
here.
"Kingston,
12th January 1880.
"(New Year's Day, O.S.).
The bard continues—" My dear Mackenzie, I
took up my pen with a view of inditing you a plain prose letter,
when lo! will you—nil you— the muse would insist on my making a
commencement in rhyme, hinting that at least the New Year's
salutation, with which I intended to begin, ought to take a
rhythmical shape," &c., &c.
While under the bard's roof I was honoured
by a visit from another distinguished Highlander, Principal Grant,
of Queen's College University, Kingston, whose parents emigrated
from Balnellan, parish of Invernaven, Strathspey, where many of
his relatives still reside. His mother was a Munro from Inverness.
They went out to Pictou, in Nova Scotia, where the future
Principal was born, on the East River, in 1837. He first attended
the Pictou Academy, and afterwards the University of Glasgow,
where he graduated in Arts, in 1857, with the highest honours in
Logic and Mental Philosophy. Having been ordained by the
Presbytery of that city, in 1860, he returned to Nova Scotia,
where, after two years of successful missionary work in Prince
Edward's Island, he was called to St Matthew's Church, Halifax,
the oldest Presbyterian congregation in the city. Here he remained
until 1877, when he was unanimously elected Principal of Kingston
University and Primarius Professor of Divinity. In 1878 the
University of Glasgow conferred upon him the honorary degree of
D.D. He was not long in his new position when he discovered that
new buildings and additional endowments were needed for the
University, and in the summer of 1878 he appealed to the friends
of the institution throughout the country, with the gratifying
result that the large sum of £30,000 poured in upon him, more than
nine-tenths of which, he informed me, with pardonable pride, was
from his own fellow- countrymen and brother Scots. He was
unfortunate enough to have lost his right arm, close to the
shoulder, in early life; but this serious drawback seems only to
have made him the more determined to push on and distinguish
himself. He is a graceful writer, and he has written several
contributions for Good Words. In 1872 he made a tour from Halifax
to Vancouver Island—from the Atlantic to the Pacific—and wrote an
account of the Great Canadian North-West, entitled "From Ocean to
Ocean," which has gone through several editions.
One of the most distinguished members of the
University staff; indeed one of the most distinguished Highlanders
in Canada, with whom I spent a most enjoyable hour, was Professor
Mackerras, a native of Nairn, where he was born June 15th, 1832,
and who, I grieve to say, has since I saw him passed over to the
majority. His father became a schoolmaster in Cornwall, Ontario,
where the son commenced his education, and the career which has
been so brilliant throughout. He has been in failing health for
some time back. A few years ago he visited his native land, for
which he expressed the warmest affection. His conversation mainly
turned upon it; and he talked of his early recollections of
Scotland and the vivid impressions made upon his mind during his
recent visit to his native land —where he has still many
relatives—with genuine pleasure. I was particularly struck with
his quiet gentleness, and extremely delicate appearance, so much
so the latter that I expressed my fear on parting with him to the
bard that he would not live out thie winter, a prediction which,
alas! proved only too true. The Press of Canada is loud and
unanimous in his praises. The Kingston Whig says that he was "a
literary genius. He had a highly cultivated intellect, a polish of
manner, and a winning disposition which made him a favourite in
his chosen walk of life, He was possessed of tastes of rare
refinement, and voice and pen were both advantageously employed by
him in labours of a most important character. His mind was always
active, and no one was more cheerfully disposed than he to
contribute to the entertainment and elevation of his fellow men.
He was a speaker whose thoughts were always delightfully ex-
pressed, and whose diction was rendered interesting and
fascinating by the elocution of which he was such a master."
The Rev. Dr Jenkins, of St Paul's Church,
Montreal, preaching the Sunday after his death, paid him the
following tribute
"I cannot close these services without a passing reference to the
loss which the Presbyterian Church in Canada has lately sustained
in the death of the late Rev. John Hugh Mackerras, one of the
Clerks of the General Assembly, and Professor of Classics in the
University of Queen's College. To some of you he was personally
known; to most of you he was known by reputation. A man of rare
natural endowments, he was also a man of large culture. Learned
was he and eloquent, an accomplished scholar, an able and
persuasive preacher; while his legal acumen and attainments in the
ecclesiastical sphere has perhaps never been sur- passed.
Certainly they have never been equalled. These are endowments that
have loomed before the public eye, but they were insignificant
compared with his qualities as a man and his excellence as a
Christian. Singularly gentle by nature, he became by Divine grace
the humble, simple-hearted Christian sitting at the feet of Jesus;
and while learning from his words, drinking largely into his
spirit. To those who knew him in private life, his grace and
gentleness, his transparent honesty and truthfulness, his reverent
spirit, his godly walk, were felt to give a charm and a brilliancy
to his character which even his more public qualities failed to
impart. His was indeed the path of the just. His religious
character grew in Christian principle as he passed on in life and
deepened within his great nature. On and on he went, walking in
the light of Heaven while yet with us on earth. Such men rarely
appear in the firmament of the Church. When they pass beyond to
another sphere, a blank is left, which it takes generations to
fill up. Weshall never again hear his eloquent voice, never again
shall we have the privilege of being guided by his wise counsels."
Such are a few specimens of the Celt which
one meets in Canada.
The member for the city in the Dominion
Parliament I found to be a successful Caithness Highlander,
Alexander Gunn, who defeated even the great Sir John A. Macdonald
himself, at the last general election, though the latter
represented the city uninterruptedly for thirty-five years.
Learning that we were in the city, he was good enough to invite
MacColl, myself, and the Highlander to meet a few of the leading
Celts of the place, around his hospitable table; among whom were a
successful Macrae, from Strathpeffer, who served his
apprenticeship to the grocery business with John Chisholm,
Inverness; a Mr Fraser, from Dingwall, and several others whose
names I did not carry away with me. The Highlander was in his
kilt; but Mrs Gunn, to my great gratification, placed him
completely in the shade, by unexpectedly introducing her two
handsome boys, both dressed in superb Highland costumes, with
strap- pings, armour, and ornaments complete. I feel more indebted
to her for this compliment than for the substantial fare which she
was good enough to provide for our entertainment. While in
Kingston snow fell to the depth of three or four inches, and I
there saw sleighing for the first time in my life. I could say
much more about this city and its kind and hospitable people; but
this article has already reached such an inordinate length that I
must pull up. In the next I shall introduce the reader to the
Highlanders of Toronto, Woodville, and Beaverton.
VI
Mr
Murdoch having left Kingston early on Tuesday, I had the bard all
to myself that day until 4 P.M., when we started together for the
station on my way to Toronto. The train being.late, I here got
into conversation with the Hon. Sir Richard J. Cartwright, Finance
Minister In the late Mackenzie administration. He was also waiting
the train, and I was introduced to him by Maccoil. I at once
turned the conversation to my grievance about the Canadian
treatment of Highland emigrants, so shabby as compared with the
facilities and encouragement which have been ex- tended to the
Mennonites and Icelanders, and what I considered the suicidal
policy of only encouraging men with money to the Dominion. Sir
Richard was against me. I stated my opinion firmly and in such a
manner as probably justified this able but self-opinionative
Canadian knight to part from me with the idea that .1 did not pay
that deference to his opinions and policy which they deserved. The
train, however, rushed along the platform before I had an
opportunity of doing the amiable; and probably both of us went our
respective ways fully convinced that the other was more dogmatieal
in his assertions and opinions than either our knowledge or
experience justified. For that, however, the arrival of the Grand
Trunk train in the middle of our interesting discussion must 'be
held responsible.
I
soon found myself rushing along through a very fine country, with
Lake Ontario a considerable distance on the left, until, after
passing Bdlleil1e, Cobourg, and Port Hope, we skirt almost along
its banks, through some of the best and most productive land in
Canada. This district is celebrated as the greatest barley
producing country in the Dominion. About 11.30 P.M. we arrived at
TORONTO,
a distance of
over 160 miles, and I made for the "Walker House," a capitally
conducted hotel, kept by a native of Glasgow, who arrived in the
Dominion with only a capital of £3, but who is now proprietor of
this fine establishment and other property in Toronto. His house,
in which you are only charged 88 a day for everything, is the
common rendezvous of Scotsmen, not only in Toronto and
neighbourhood, but of those who visit the city from all parts of
Canada, the United States and Scotland.
Next morning I had a walk through the
principal parts of the city, the streets of which, in consequence
of the recent fall of snow, were very slushy. There are some very
fine buildings in the commercial part of the town, but I saw the
place for the first time under such serious disadvantages that I
was not so favourably impressed with it as r would no doubt
otherwise have been. Toronto is the' capital of Ontario, the most
import- ant province of the Canadian Dominion. It is situated on a
beautiful circular bay on the north-west shore of Lake Ontario,
333 miles west from Montreal, having a fine harbour formed by a
peninsula called Gibraltar Point which separates it from the Lake,
shelters the inner bay, which is six miles long by one and a-half
wide, and makes it a very safe harbour for shipping. The city lies
low, but rises gently from the water's edge, until, at the
Observatory buildings, it reaches a point 108 feet above the level
of the sea. It is mainly built of stone and brick, and has a
number of very fine streets crossing each other at right angles,
and containing several very fine public buildings, warehouses, and
private residences. The city is the seat of the Provincial
Government of Ontario and of the Law Courts. The Government
buildings make a very poor appearance in comparison with others in
the city, but they are about to be pulled down, and new buildings,
in keeping with the importance and requirements of the Government,
are to be erected in their place. Osgoode Hall, where all the Law
Courts are held under one roof, is a fine classic structure, and
the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor and the
University are noble buildings—the latter considered to be one of
the finest on the American continent. The public park is a very
fine one, and the wide avenue leading to it, ornamented with
stately trees, must be a magnificent sight in summer. The city
contains no end of thriving factories and foundries, breweries and
distilleries, and the largest cabinet factory in Canada, while
between forty and fifty newspapers and periodicals are published
in it, including the Globe, admitted on all hands to be the most
influential paper in the whole Dominion. Its founder and principal
proprietor is
THE
HON GEORGE BROWN, Senator of the Dominion, quite a self-made man,
and whose mother was a Mackenzie from the Island of Lews. His
influence among Liberal politicians, derived no doubt largely from
that of the Globe, is unequalled, and indeed more potent than some
of the ostensible leaders of the party are willing to admit. No
Liberal Government can ignore his opinions, and usually declining
to accept office, it is most difficult—indeed, sometimes
impossible to keep him under party control In Nova Scotia I was
told that "the pople of Ontario believed more in the gospel of
George Brown than in that of the New Testament," and in Toronto I
found the Globe described among its opponents as the "Scotsman's
Bible." While this is no doubt a libel on the orthodoxy of our
countrymen, it gives no bad idea of their faith in the leading
Canadian journal. The Toronto Mail has been started a few years
ago in the interest of the Conservative party. it is capitally
written, and conducted with great vigour, and, I was told, no
small amount of success. I found the Hon. George a most agreeable
and chatty fellow, but his herculean frame and firm,
determined-looking visage at once convinced me that, apart
altogether from the power of the Globe, it would be the better
part of valour to keep on friendly terms with him. I had been told
that
THE HON.
ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, ex-Premier of the Dominion, resided in
Toronto, where he held the post of Chairman of the Isolated Risk
Insurance Company. I called and sent in my card, whereupon he
walked out of his sanctum, invited me in, and introduced me to one
of his brothers, who was at the time with him in the office, and,
after a most pleasant chat, invited me to dine with him that
evening. I did so, and enjoyed a most agreeable evening listening
to the pleasant and unpretentious chat of the distinguished
statesman, and that of his amiable and much esteemed lady, like
himself a native of the county of Perth. As already stated in a
previous article, Mr Mackenzie is a native of Logierait, where he
was born on the 22d of January 1822, so that he is now in the 58th
year of his age. I have not been able to find out what particular
family of the clan the ex-Premier is descended from, but his
ancestors lived in Strathtummel for several generations. The whole
family emigrated to Canada, where the sons, seven in number, were
all successful men, and remarkable for their natural ability and
great force of character. One of them, the late Hope F. Mackenzie,
was successively and for several years M.P. for Lambton and for
North Oxford, and was well known as a man of marked ability, of
earnestness, and honesty of purpose.
The Hon. Alexander was educated at the
public schools of Moulin, Dunkeld, and Perth, and his father
having died when the future Premier was very young, he had at the
age of fourteen to push his own way in the world. He was
apprenticed to a stone mason, and became a thorough master of his
trade. He had early evinced a taste for literature, and continued
a persevering student through life. He now possesses not only a
very extensive acquaintance with general literature, but has few
equals in his accurate and wide knowledge of political,
constitutional, and social history, as well as the present
condition and general history of the leading nations of the earth.
He has thus a great advantage over most of the politicians of
Canada, his ready command of the facts thus acquired enabling him
to illustrate his eloquent public orations with telling effect. In
1842, when only 20 years of age, he emigrated and settled down in
Sarnia, then a thriving and rising village, where he commenced
business as a contractor. He took & keen interest in all public
questions, and became a contributor to the press. He was soon
acknowledged as a very useful, and. ultimately as a most prominent
member, of the Liberal party. In all the most exciting political
events of the period, from 1850 to 1864, he was a most active and
earnest participator. His excellent and powerful speeches, as well
as his able contributions to the press during that eventful period
of Canadian history, strongly aided in bringing about the great
results achieved by the party of which he was now fast becoming
the natural leader. He continued earnestly to advocate with great
power, firmness, and' fearlessness, the introduction of popular
reform, Be became the editor of a Liberal newspaper, which, by the
force and ability of his contributions, and the sound common sense
and patriotism which pervaded its columns, soon became a power in
the State, and commanded general attention. He naturally became
associated with the leading constitutional and administrative
reformers in Parliament. In 1861 he was returned to 'the
Legislature for the county of Lambton, in which Sarnia is
situated, and of which it is now the capital town, and from that
day to this he held one of the most prominent and influential
positions, both as a speaker and as a legislator, in the Dominion
Parliament. When the Hon. George Brown left the Coalition Cabinet
of 1864-5, Mr Mackenzie was offered the Presidency of the Council,
but declined it on the ground that the concessions offered to the
United States for a renewal of the Reciprocity Treaty were unwise;
and that he could not become a member of a Government who would be
held responsible for such concessions. In 1871 he was pre-ailed
upon to contest West Middlesex for the local Parliament of
Ontario. In this he succeeded against a strong opponent.
On the meeting of the Legislature shortly
after, he rendered great service in the debate which resulted in
what is described as "the memorable and victorious attack" upon
the then existing Government. In the new Government he was made
Provincial Secretary, and afterwards he accepted the office of
Treasurer or Finance Minister, the duties of which his great and
intimate knowledge of the resources of the Province enabled him to
conduct with vigour and success, his budget speech in 1872 being
described as "a masterly exposition of Provincial finance."
Hitherto representatives could sit as members of the Dominion and
of the local Legislatures at the same time, but in 1872 an act was
passed which disqualified members from sitting in both, whereupon
Mr Mackenzie resigned his seat and office in the local
Legislature, to devote himself exclusively to the more important
sphere of Federal politics at Ottawa, in the Dominion Parliament.
His great ability and industry soon made themselves felt here. He
was soon, by common consent, first, leader of the Ontario section
of the Liberals in the House of Commons; then tacitly, and
afterwards by formal election, he became the leader of the whole
Liberal party of the Dominion. When, in 1873, the downfall of Sir
John A. Macdonald and his Government occurred, "there was no one,"
according to the Globe, "justly to deny Mr Mackenzie's title to
the Premiership of British North America, by virtue of the
position he already held in the House of Commons, his capacity as
a statesman, his ability as a speaker, his wide and accurate
knowledge of public affairs, his ardent devotion to the interests
of his adopted country, his genial love of the Old Sod and all its
belongings, his unspotted personal character, his in- tense love
of right and hatred of wrong, and the enviable place he has won
for himself in the confidence and respect of his fellow
countrymen."
The
Mackenzie Administration has left its impress on the political
history and the statute book of Canada, and Mr Mackenzie, its
chief and most distinguished member may be fairly credited with
most of the reforms—administrative and departmental—which his
Government were able to carry out. In 1875 he paid a visit to his
native country with a view of securing some repose from his
arduous duties, and at the same time to see his native land, which
be continues to love with genuine affection. The reception
accorded to him on that occasion is in the recollection of the
reader, and need not here be enlarged upon. He was received by her
Majesty at Windsor Castle, Every rank of his countrymen welcomed
him with marks of distinction and genuine cordiality. Dundee and
Perth conferred upon him the freedom of their respective burghs,
while his reception at Dunkeld, Logiorait. Greenock, and, other
places throughout the north, were honours of which any statesman,
how- ever eminent, might feel proud. All throughout his political
career, and during his agreeable tour in his native land, be bore
himself with a characteristic modesty and dignity, while all his
utterances were universally held to partake of great common sense
and refined taste. Those who know him say that he is of the most
kindly disposition, without the slightest ostentation or
assumption, a thoroughly upright man, a firm friend, a pleasant
companion, and full of fun, anecdote, and pleasant banter, when he
unbends at his own fireside or at that of a friend. In religion he
is a Baptist, and while he holds to his, own religious opinions
conscientiously and firmly, he has never shown the slightest tinge
of bigotry or uncharitableness towards those who differ from him.
Such is a brief sketch of the Hon. Alexander
Mackenzie, with whom I had the honour of spending a most agreeable
evening. At first he does not impress you as being possessed of.
any extraordinary gifts, but as the conversation proceeds a
countenance, by no means indicative of great power and force of
character, gradually brightens up, the purest English, with an
umnistakeable Perthshire accent, flows easily and fluently from
his tongue. You are impressed with his genuine honesty and want of
reserve, and you cannot help thinking that these qualities must be
a great obstacle to his success as a Canadian politician, when
pitted against such an able tactician and Disraelian imitator as
Sir John A. Macdonald. I was, in short, in the company of a man of
great nattiral ability and culture, who talked freely and fluently
on the various questions introduced by me; and I was particularly
pleased to find him admitting that the policy of giving the
-cold-shoulder to Highland immigrants was agreat mistake-; and
promising that if he ever again got into power, the policy of the
present Government on that particular question - would be entirely
reversed. In the morning of the same day I called, at Government
House, upon
THE
HON. DONALD ALEXANDER MACDONALD, Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario,
with a letter of introduction from his Excellency the Marquis of
Lorn. I found him exceedingIy pleasant and affable, and quite able
and willing to converse with me in Gaelic as well as in English.
He was having a party of the leading politicians of the Province
to dine with him the same evening, and kindly invited me to join
them. Having, however, already engaged to dine with the
ox-Premier, I was most reluctantly obliged to decline his
proferred hospitality, but had to promise him that I should accept
of it on my return to Toronto from Beaverton about the middle of
the following week. The grandfather of the Lieutenant-Governor
emigrated from Knoydart, on the west coast of Inverness-shire, in
1786, and settled in Glengarry, Canada. One of the sons,
Alexander, succeeded his father in the farm at Sandfield Corner,
close to St Raphael's Church, in Glengarry, and had a family of
sons brought up there which turned out to be one of. the most
influential and distinguished in the great Dominion. One of these,
the late John Sandfield Macdonald, was for many years one of the
leading politicians of Canada, and ultimately became Premier.
Another son, A. F. Macdonald, represented Cornwall for many years
in the House of Commons, and this distinguished Highland family
represented almost without any interruption the county of
Glengarry in Parliament since the Union of Upper and Lower Canada
in 1841, in which year John Sandfield was first elected for the
county. The present Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario was born on the
farm, at Sandfield, in 1817, so that he is now in his 63d year. He
was educated at a neighbouring institution, presided over by the
Right Rev. Alexander Macdonnell, P.D., afterwards Bishop of
Kingston. He devoted himself to mercantile pursuits, and became a
successful contractor, in which capacity he constructed several
railways and canal. In course of time he be- came President of the
Montreal and Ottawa City Junction Railway, and one of the
Directors of the Bank of Ontario. In 1870 he retired from
business, and since that time devoted himself almost exclusively
to public affairs. He was returned to Parliament in 1857. In 1871
he declined the Treasurership of Ontario. On the defeat of the
Government of Sir John A. Macdonald in 1873, he became
Postmaster-General in the Mackenzie Administration, and in the
space of two years carried out great reforms in his department,
among which-were the establishment of direct mail communication
between Canada and Europe, the reduction of postal rates across
the Atlantic, and the establishment of a system of uniformity,
free postal delivery in the principal cities of the Dominion,
prepayment of the postage on letters and newspapers, and, a Postal
Convention with the United States, which resulted in the reduction
of postage each way by about fifty per cent., and the extension of
reciprocity to the money order system of the country. His public
speeches were always short, but at the same time distinguished by
pleasant and graceful thought and utterance. Naturally of a
conciliatory disposition, be was able to overcome difficulties
that his predecessors in office were unable to surmount. He bad
always taken a keen interest in the military affairs of the
country, and for many years held the honourable position of
Lieutenant-Colonel of the Glengarry Reserve Militia, a body of men
possessing the military ardour and heroic spirit which in all ages
distinguished their Highland ancestors, and which still animates
the inhabitants of Glengarry County. It was only natural that when
Mr Mackenzie found himself in a position to fill up the vacancy in
the high office of the Lieutenant-Governorship of Ontario, he
should have conferred it upon his able Lieutenant, the
Postmaster-General; and it was universally admitted by politicians
on both sides that no more fitting appointment could be made, and
that no member of the Liberal party deserved the honourable
distinction more than Mr Macdonald, who had continued throughout
all his public career to retain the esteem and respect of friends
and foes alike. A general chorus of approval from all parties
followed upon the appointment, and it is admitted on all hands
that "nothing occurred since his elevation to mar this feeling of
satisfaction. Punctual and earnest in the discharge of his public
duties, Mr Macdonald, in his no less important social capacity,
retains and continues to display the same valuable qualities which
have long made him a favourite with all who knew him, dispensing
the hospitalities of Government House with as little ostentation
as possible, but with as much kindness and liberality as could be
desired." He is a tall, good-looking man, with a fine open
countenance, most unassuming, and agreeable in manner; a Catholic
in faith, but full of charity and good feeling towards those who
differ from him in religion. He is highly popular with all the
members of the Liberal party, and devotedly fond of his native
Glengarry and its people, while he still has a warm corner in his
heart for "Tir nam beann, nan gleaun, 'a nan gaisgeach." While in
the city I had a most agreeable interview with the Hon. S. C.
Wood, Treasurer and Minister of Agriculture for the Province of
Ontario, who supplied me with information bearing upon emigration,
and expressed his views freely on that and such other questions as
I introduced and discussed with him. His deputy, Mr Spence,
Secretary of the Emigration Department, I found equally pleasant
and obliging, and most anxious to place any information in his
possession at my disposal. And now that I am taking leave, for the
present at least, of Canadian officials, it is only right to say
that whether they agreed or differed with me, I found them,
without exception, from the highest to the lowest, perfect
gentlemen, most agreeable, civil, and obliging, with no offensive
airs of superiority, and most anxious to supply any information in
their power, whether it was connected with their own special
departments or not.
The reader is no doubt aware that in Toronto
resides Patrick Macgregor, M.A., barrister, better known from his
connection with Celtic literature, more particularly as the author
of "The Genuine Remains of Ossian, literally translated, with a
preliminary Dissertation," published by him in 1841, under the
patronage of the Highland Society of London. Mr Macgregor was
educated in the University of Edinburgh, and has several relations
in this country, in Badenoch and Paisley, the well-known P. Comyn
Macgregor of the latter place being his cousin-german. In the
course of a most interesting chat, I learned with pleasure that Mr
Macgregor had a new edition, improved, with extensive notes, of
his now rare work, ready for the press. One of the judges is
Kenneth Mackenzie, but though I called twice I found him on the
bench, and I was unable to procure an interview or find out what
branch of the Mackenzies he originally sprang from "But perhaps
the best known (to quote from my letters in the Free Pre&) and
most genuinely warm-hearted Highlander in Toronto is Hugh Miller,
a wholesale chemist, who learned his business in Church Street,
Inverness. He came to Toronto in 1842, when it had only a
population of between thirteen and fourteen thousand, the
inhabitants of the city having thus increased six times in 37
years, during which period Mr Miller has been one of its most
prominent and upright citizens. Finding him so popular among his
fellow countrymen, I jocularly remarked that it was a pity our
friend had so nearly outlived the Clan Miller, or he would no
doubt have been appointed Chief by acclamation. 'Ah,' answered
one, 'he holds afar more important position here; he is Chief of
all the Clans in Toronto." Indeed I found that he was known and
spoken of over the whole of Upper Canada as one of the very best
in all respects of his race in the wide Dominion. He has long ago
occupied all the positions of honour at the disposal of the St
Andrew and Caledonian Societies. He is a Justice of the Peace, and
a leading reformer, and his eldest son and partner in business
holds the honourable position among his countrymen of Secretary to
the St Andrew Society. No deserving Scot in distress is turned
away from Hugh Miller's; but in spite of all his liberality and
kindness, which are proverbial, he possesses, in addition to a
lucrative and extensive business, some valuable land and house
property in and around the City of Toronto. There were numberless
good Highlanders in the city whom I desired to see; but the
limited time at my disposal did not admit of my staying long
enough in the Place. Among others I met Mr Neil Bain, a very fine
fellow, a native of Dingwall, and a partner in a large safe
manufacturing concern in the city. James Bain & Son is a most
respectable firm of booksellers of long standing, doing a very
prosperous business, and also originally from Ding- wail. One of
the eons is a partner in the London publishing firm of Nimmo &
Bain. The leading publishers in the city are Campbell & Son and
Maclear & Co., and genuine Highlanders to boot. I was also pleased
to meet with two young Invernessians—one, a son of the late
respected Bathe Alexander Macbean, who holds a respectable
position in the Goods Department of the Grand Trunk Railway; and
Angus Macbean, a son of Lewi8 Macbean, also occupying a
respectable position respectable position which I was informed he
is steadfastly improving in a manner which his good conduct and
steady habits fully deserve. The mercantile houses exhibit Gordons,
Mackays, Campbells, Macdonald.s, Mackeuzie8, Mathesons, and other
such Highland names without number on their signboards, making you
feel quite at home as you pass along the principal streets of the
city, While here I took a run out to
BAVERTON AND WOODVILLE
by the Toronto and Nippising narrow gauge railway, the manager of
which was good enough to send me a return pass over his line to
and from Woodville where I had to change and travel some eight
miles on. another line to Beaverton. At the Midland junction,
about 100 miles due north from Toronto, I had to wait for more
than an hour for the arrival of the train, which was just an hour
behind time. The offlcials showed the most delightful unconcern as
to its appearance; and, making inquiry, I was told by one of them
that the trains were almost invariably equally late and was It
once in a fortnight up to time," the delay generally taking place
at Lindsay.
My
principal object in going to this district was to see the Rev.
David Watson, M.A., one of the earliest subscribers to the Celtic
Magazine in that quarter—a genuine Highlander, whose father at one
time occupied the farm of Knocknageal, near Inverness. He was in
the village to meet and drive me to the manse, about a mile
further on, where, on arriving, I received a warm Highland
greeting from his wile and family. I soon discovered that
Beaverton, situated on Lake Simçoe, a magnificent sheet of water,
was almost entirely populated by Gaelic-speaking Highlanders,
those from Islay and Kintail forming the great majority. I much
desired to see them, but my kind host stuck to me so closely and
attentively that I could not leave him to go among the people,
without a seeming rudeness and ingratitude which I naturally felt
most anxious to avoid. However, on Sunday morning, finding that I
could not have my desires satisfied as to the living, I went to
the churchyard, and wandered an4 mused among the tombs of the
dead, until it was time to enter the church to hear my eloquent
friend preaching to his devoted Highland flock. Here, among the
tombs, I enjoyed a sermon in stones which surpassed in interest to
me any that I had ever heard preached from living lips, There I
found from the inscriptions and sculpture which abounded that vast
numbers of my expatriated countrymen lay under a strange sod
thousands of miles away from their native land, waiting for the
great day when the earth and sea shall give forth their dead,
Hardly a monument or head-stone but proclaimed that he or she over
whom it was placed was "a native of Scotland"—Campbells and
Mackays "from Islay," Camerons "from Lochaber," Macraes "from
Ross-shire" or "from Kintail," Gordons and Murrays "from
Sutherlandshire," Maceweans "from Perthshire," and so on from all
the Highland counties. The whole surroundings and the thoughts to
which they gave rise were touching beyond description, and made an
impression upon my mind which I shall never forget. The harsh
cruelty or callous indifference on the part of the Highland
Chiefs, who must be held principally responsible for the
expatriation of their noble countrymen, was recalled and presented
in vivid colours before the mind's eye. The ties of affection for
fathers, brothers, sisters, and friends, for country and
kin, so remorselessly torn asunder by the natural protectors of
their people and dependants were recalled, and the feeling
produced was one of subdued sorrow mixed with no small amount of
hatred and contempt for the memory of the authors of Highland
evictions and other less glaring and offensive, but equally cruel
forms of expatriation and transportation of a past generation. One
could not help feeling the great value and interest which would
have attached to such ,a record, as was here given, of the early
migration westward from Europe to the British Isles of the early
Celtic races. Though thousands have found a last resting-place in
this city of the dead, the first burial took place in it so
recently as 1834, a few years after the first tree was out in the
then trackless and endless forest. The inscription, which shows a
poor acquaintance on the part of the composer with Highland
geography—for he places Inverness-shire in the Isle of Skye—is as
follows:-" Sacred to the memory of Ann M'Ginnis, wife of Donald
Cameron, a native of the Parish of Strath, Inverness-shire, Isle
of Skye, Scotland, died May 14th, 1834, aged 48 years. Deceased
was the first intered (81c) in this yard." Another inscription, on
a very fine monument, is "In memory of Colonel Kenneth Cameron,
formerly in Her Majesty's 79th or Cameron Highlanders, who died
June 20th 1872, aged 84 years," Colonel Cameron joined the famous
79th, I was told, as ensign about 1802. In the same enclosure is
another monument to Robt. Bethune, youngest son of the late Rev.
John Bethune, D.D., of the parish of Dornoch, Sutherlandahire, who
died in 1864, aged 67 years, and whose widow, a sister of Colonel
Cameron, survives him, and is perhaps the most respected lady now
living in the Township of Thorah. On a fine marble column we are
told that, "Here moulders the ashes of Robert Mactaggart....He was
born in Islay, served under Admiral Nelson, fought in the
memorable battle of the Nile, departed this life on the 6th of
September 1858, at the good old age of 88."
But perhaps the most peculiar, and those
which best illustrate the love of home and the pride of ancestry,
are the following:-" In memory of Donald Macrae, born 29 June
1786, died 30 Nov. 1870. Emigrated to Canada 1821. Was one of the
first pioneers of the Township of Thorah. He was son of Donald
Macrae, who was (son) of Christopher Roy, (son) of John Donald,
(son) of Alexander, (son) of Christopher. His first wife, Mary
Macrae, was daughter of John [Brec], (son) of Donald, (son) of
Donald, (son) of Alexander (son) of Christopher." From this it
appears that this couple were cousins six times removed from
Christopher, their common ancestor. Two of their eons, John and
Donald, are in excellent circumstances, worth about £4000 each,
and I was determined to see them. I found them such genuine
Highlanders as I expected the commemorators of their ancestors in
such an inscription would be; and it is quite unneccessary to say
that they still take a warm and most lively interest in the
Scottish Highlands. John was born in Kintail, but left with his
father quite young; but Donald was born in Canada. Their
great-grandmother was a daughter of the Macrae of Ardintoul of the
day.
Alongside the
above unique inscription was one "In memory of Isabella Macrae,
relict of Donald Macrae. Born at Kintail, Ross-shire, Scotland, in
1783; died at Thorah, July 17, 1872. Daughter of John and Maigaret
Macrae, who were descendants of the Reverends Farquhar Macrae and
Donald Macrae, ministers of the Church of Scotland, A. D. 174, in
Kintail."
These inscriptions, as I
have already indicated, gave rise to feelings and emotions not
easily suppressed, and some of which I communicated to my reverend
friend before he entered the pulpit; and during the most eloquent
and impressive discourse which he afterwards delivered, he made
such telling references thereto as visibly affected many of his
hearers. Mr Watson is deservedly highly popular with the people,
among whom he has laboured for so many years. He is one of the
small number of ministers who opposed the Union, recently entered
into by all the Presbyterian Churches of Canada, and his
congregation to a man adhered to him, though every one of them
were quite willing to join if their pastor did so. Some of them,
however, asked themselves the question, Whether it was best to go
over and part with their minister, or adhere to a pastor whom they
almost adored, as a godly, earnest, and hard-working man, to whom
they looked up as their naturl father and protector when any
troubles or trials overtook them I The question of Union or not
was put to them from the pulpit, their minister asking all those
who were in favour of Union with the other churches to stand up.
Not one responded. He then asked those who desired to continue as
they were to show their wishes in the same manner, when every soul
in the building sprang to their feet. The church in which they had
been hitherto worshipping was antiquated and too small for the
growing requirements of an increasing congregation; and to show
their confidence in their minister, and to encourage him still
further, the time was considered appropriate to set on foot a
subscription for the building of a new church. In a very short
time a sum of £3500 was subscribed solely among his Highland
friends, and all 'within the township. A handsome building, large
enough to seat 900 persons, was contracted for, and was ready to
receive the congregation the Sunday after my visit, on which day
it was to be formally opened. It is a pretty, neat structure, and
every farthing of its cost was subscribed before the building
contract was entered into, a fact which I am afraid cannot be
recorded of many, if any, churches in our Highland districts at
home. It will thus be seen that Mr Watson is happy in his people
and surroundings, and he is equally so in his own family. His sons
and daughters are educated under the domestic roof by their
father, who in the most systematic manner devotes so many hours
a-day to these paternal duties. The ladies' performances on the
piano were really remarkable, when the difficulties of the
situation are taken into account; and they sang Scotch and
Highland airs with the natural simplicity and sweetness of the
mavis, one of them especially possessing a compass and command of
voice which, under professional training, would soon enable her to
make her mark among the most accomplished vocalists of our time.
Mr Watson is, in many respects, quite a
character. He is entirely devoid of any ecclesiastical starch, but
wholly devoted to benefiting physically as well as morally and
religiously, his fellow creatures; and notwithstanding his genuine
respect and love for the Old Church, he is thoroughly catholic in
his views, and on the most friendly terms with his neighbours
—Catholic as well as Presbyterian. His popularity among his
neighbours was strongly evidenced by an intimation in the other
Presbyterian churches of the district that there would be no
services held in them on the occasion of the opening, on the
following Sunday, of Mr Watson's new church, so that all the
neighbouring ministers and people might be able to join in the
opening celebration services. I was particularly struck with his
nervous restlessness, and with the peculiar naturalness and
simplicity of his eloquence and action in and out of the pulpit.
He possesses a magnificent library, and is a great student and
master of botany, ornithology, astronomy, geology, and many of the
other sciences—a very prodigy of learning, in an out-of-the-way
region, where only his natural love of knowledge could ever have
induced him to devote himself so much to study as he does. And he
is not a mere bookworm, but makes good use of his researches by
occasionally delivering free lectures to the people on the
elements of the various sciences. Mr Murdoch, with whom I parted
in Kingston a fortnight previously, was to lecture in Woodville on
"The Heroes of Ossian," on Monday evening, and I decided upon
being present on the occasion. My reverend friend would insist
upon driving me in his own machine, though the train was leaving
Beaverton at the same time; and I parted with his family, and
later on with himself at Woodville, much regretting that I had so
little time at my disposal to spend among such a fine,
warm-hearted people as the Highlanders of Thorah.
Woodville is a thoroughly Highland
settlement of about 600 inhabitants, most of whom are from the
Island of Islay, and nearly all Gaelic- speaking people. They
turned out well to hear Mr Murdoch's lecture, after which I had
the pleasure of addressing them briefly in Gaelic. The Rev. Mr
Mactavish, now of Inverness, has been there for several years, and
he is still remembered and spoken of with the highest respect by
every one with whom I came in contact during my short stay in the
place. Among those whom I had the pleasure of meeting there was Dr
Mackay, who is married to a daughter of Mr Mactavish; Duncan
Campbell, of the Post Office; and the Rev. Mr Ross, the present
settled Gaelic minister in the village, and a native of Easter
Ross. I intended to have visited the churchyard there as I had
done at Beaverton, but next day turning out very wet, I started on
my way, and had the pleasure of the Rev. Mr Ross's company all the
way back to Toronto. In my next I shall introduce the reader to
the Highlanders of Guelph, Lucknow, and Kincardine.
VII.
HAVING on my return from Woodville spent a
few days more in Toronto, and having seen old and made new friends
there, I started by the Grand Trunk Railway to
GUELPH,
the Capital of the county of Wellington,
some 48 miles further west On the way, leaving Lake Ontaiio on the
left, I passed through a very fine and most interesting country.
In about a couple of hours the train pulled up at Guelph, and I at
once made for the Wellington Hotel, a capitally- conducted house,
well furnished and very comfortable, the charges being only a
dollar and a half (or about 6s 3d) per day for bed, board, and
attendance of a very superior kind. Having engaged my room and
partaken of food and refreshment, I enquired as to the whereabouts
of a gentleman to whom I was fortunate enough, as the sequel
proved, to have a letter of introduction—Mr James Innes,
proprietor and editor of the Guelph Mercury, a capitally-conducted
and influential daily paper, with a weekly edition, published in
the City. He lived, I was told, within two hundred yards of the
hotel, and having sent him my card, he in a very short time made
his appearance. He was on his way to a meeting of the St Andrew
Society held that evening for the election of office-bearers, and
I must accompany him. Nothing could have pleased me better. There
I met a fine coterie of patriotic Scots—Highland and Lowland, all
imbued with the genuine patriotic spirit which I had been so
pleased to find among all our countrymen on that side, while all
were, at the same time, none the less enthusiastic Canadians.
Indeed, generally speaking, the two will be found together—a warm
feeling for the old country, with a corresponding glow in favour
of their adopted Canada. The man who is willing to forget his
native country, its history, and the race from which he sprang,
will as a rule make a poor citizen of the Dominion. Selfishness
will be found to occupy the seat of the nobler sentiment, and this
kind of citizen is not the type best calculated to adorn his
country—native or adopted—or to benefit materially or mentally his
fellow-countrymen. The members of the St Andrew Society of Guelph
combine the two elements, and I was particularly pleased to have
had an opportunity of spending some little time in their company
at, and after their meeting—when we had the opportunity of
enjoying some excellently sung Scotch songs, Scotch whisky, and
Scotch sentiment.
Among the other gentlemen whom I had the pleasure of meeting here
were John Mackenzie, from Lochbroom, Ross-shire, a gentleman who
has been very successful in business; J. C, Maclagan; Hugh A.
Stewart, a native of Tam, and an old pupil of the Royal Academy,
Inverness, who is doing a good business as a lawyer and estate
agent. Donald Maclean, born at Fluke Street, Inverness, holds a
leading position in the Inland Revenue; while William Stewart, and
G. B. Fraser, both of whom served their apprenticeship on the
banks of the Ness, are the two leading drapers in the city; and
another Invernessian, Evan Macdonald, is a prosperous farmer close
to the city. Another enthusiastic Highlander whom I had the
pleasure of meeting here was J. P. Macmillan, barrister, a native
of Glengarry (Canada). E. F. B. Johnston, chief of the St Andrew
Society, a genuine, warm-hearted Scot, with a literary turn and
considerable ability, I found to be a general favourite as much
among his Highland confreres of Guelph as among his own more
particular friends from the south of Scotland.
My friend of the Mercury, whom I found to be
a fine specimen of the Aberdonian type of the shrewd and
clear-headed Scot, insisted upon my becoming his guest during my
stay in the district, and I shall always remember with no small
degree of pleasure the few days I spent in his comfortable
house—so unpretentiously, but so kindly and hospitably entertained
by his better-half, a fine specimen of the Scotch lady, and a
native of Huntly. The history of this couple is most interesting,
especially the hard struggles and ultimate success of Scotch
pluck, perseverance, and natural ability in the person of this
shrewd Aberdonian, who, unaided, has made for himself such a good
position, and one in which he wields no small amount of influence
and power for good. The history of his career and success would
very well bear telling, and that very much to his credit. With his
struggles against a thousand difficulties I strongly sympathised,
and most heartily do I congratulate him upon his well-earned
success. He was one of the chosen leet of two for representing his
county in Parliament at the last general election for the Province
of Ontario, and only missed being chosen as the Liberal candidate
by four votes in favour of Mr Laidlaw, M.P., who now holds that
honourable position, whom Mr Innes afterwards loyally supported,
and with whom I had several agreeable chats at Guelph, and
afterwards at Woodstock, -where his son is proprietor and editor
of an excellently conducted weekly news-paper.
Guelph is in the centre of a very rich
district of country, and is a rapidly progressing city with a
population of about 10,000. It is built on several hills with a
small river running through it, altogether a very fine and
commanding site. It contains several fine shops, mills, and two
woollen factories—one of the latter the property of Captain
MacCrae, a native of Ayrshire, whose ancestors, he told me, came
originally from the ancient habitat of the Macraes, in Kintail,
but who, after the battle of Sheriffmuir, in which his ancestors
took a distinguished part, settled down in Ayrshire, and adopted
the above mode of spelling their name. The goods mainly
manufactured by him are ladies' and gentlemen's underclothing of a
very superior class. At the time I was in the city 110 hands were
employed in the mill, while about a third of that number were
employed outside finishing, and in other departments of
manufacture. In addition to the Mercury Guelph supports another
daily and two weekly papers—a number out of all proportion to the
population, if we judge it by the same rule as at home; but the
same happy state of things prevails throughout the whole Dominion,
where every one, almost from the cradle to the grave, reads his
newspaper.
The
Ontario School of Agriculture is in the immediate neighbourhooi.
of Guelph, but as I have already described it, its management, and
great advantages to the Province of Ontario, and even to the
agricultural interests of the entire Dominion, in the Free Press,
it must now be passed over. The first tree was cut in the forest
on the site of the future city so recent as 1827, by Gait, the
novelist—a fact almost incredible to any one visiting the city at
the present day, with its fine buildings, large stores,
innumerable mills and factories, and all the other evidences of
advancement and civilization. Here, perhaps as much as anywhere, I
felt the depressing effect of parting with a lot of good friends,
newly made, to push on alone into fresh fields and pastures new,
again to meet strange faces in a strange land; but in my case it
seemed always hitherto to be a parting with one set of good,
warm-hearted friends, only to meet, if possible, others possessing
the same good feeling in a more intense degree, according to me a
warmer welcome than ever. Somewhat thus depressed, I left my
friends at Guelph to visit a large colony of Highlanders which, I
had been informed, settled down in
LUCKNOW,
a small town in the county of Bruce, 93
miles from Guelph, on the the Wellington Gray and Bruce Railway,
and 13 miles from Kincardine on Lke Huron, having a population of
about 1400.
The
county of Bruce is one of the most Celtic, or Highland, counties
in the whole Dominion; and before introducing the reader to my
enthusiastic friends of Lucknow and Kincardine, it may be well to
give a few particulars regarding this rich territory, nearly all
of which has been reclaimed by Highlanders from the North of
Scotland and the Western Isles. The county is 100 miles long by 34
wide, with an area of considerably over a million acres of the
most fertile land in Canada. A white man settled in it for the
first time so recent as the year 1847, only 38 years ago. In 1852
the total assessed value of the county was only two thousand
dollars. In 1870 it rose to about eight million, while the
population was nearly fifty thousand, and in 1879 the assessment
amounted to the almost incredible amount of twenty-four and a-half
million dollars. It is governed by a Council of thirty-seven
members, presided over by a Warden, Robert Baird, Esq., who kindly
supplied ma with these figures. The population is almost entirely
Scotch, and mainly Highland. In the Township of Huron they are
nearly all from the Island of Lewis, where they have named the
principal town Dingwall. Most of those in the Township of
Kincardine came from Cape Breton, while those occupying a fine
settlement near Tiverton came almost entirely from the Island of
Tiree, and are doing remarkably well. In fact the county is more
distinctly Celtic in everything, except in their great comfort and
affluence, than any part of the Highlands of Scotland at the
present day. I am informed that the same may almost be said of the
neighbouring county of Goderich, a district which I much regret I
have been unable to visit, though within a few hours' distance of
it.
But to return
to Lucknow. While in the County of Glengarry some three weeks
earlier, I received a letter, addressed to me at random, from Dr
MacCrimmon, Chief of the Caledonian Society of Lucknow, requesting
me to visit that place, and to deliver my lecture on "Flora
Macdonald," regarding which and myself they had seen some notices
in the newspapers. At the time I could make no promise, but on
this Saturday I telegraphed from Guelph that I would be there on
the following Monday, for about a day, but that a lecture (in
consequence of the short time at my disposal) was out of the
question. Having passed through a rich country still exhibiting
unmistakable signs of having been brought under the plough in
recent years, the train pulled up at Lucknow station, where I was
accosted by a stalwart, powerful-looking man, in broad Balmoral
bonnet with red and white checked border, considerably over six
feet high, who at once accosted me and asked if I was "Mr
Mackenzie from Inverness." I pleaded guilty, whereupon I received
a good shake of his powerful fist, and a most hearty salutation
from this Hercules, who was no other than the Chief of the
Caledonian Society of Lucknow, admittedly the first society of its
kind, in all respects, in the whole Dominion. He had his
conveyance waiting for me, and we drove to his own residence,
where a few genial spirits met us at tea; after which we had to go
to the Caledonian Hall, where the members of the Society were to
meet, and, as I was now told, march to the hotel, led by the
Society's piper, where it had been arranged, even upon such short
notice as they had, to entertain the flying visitor from the Old
Country to supper. This was an unexpected but a highly appreciated
honour. Having met at the hail, and having been introduced to the
members of the Society, we followed the Fiob-mhor to the hotel,
where we were soon enjoying ourselves to an excellently provided
feast, under the presidency of the stalwart Chief of the Society,
supported by the Reeve, or Mayor, and ex-Reeve, as well as by the
leading citizens and merchants, most of whom were Highlanders. The
local paper—the Lucknow Sentinel—de- voted more than three columns
to a report of our happy meeting, and it may just be as well here
to give the description of what the editor described as "A
Oaledonian Banquet." Here it is:- "A complimentary supper was
given in Mr Whitley's Hotel on Monday evening last, by the Lucknow
Caledonian Society, to Mr A. Mackenzie, editor of the Celtic
.Magazine, Inverness, Scotland, a periodical devoted to preserving
the past history and traditions of the Highlanders, and published
in Inverness, Scotland. This gentleman is making a tor through
this country to enquire into the condition of emigrants who have
settled in Canada, for the purpose of ascertaining whether it
would be desirable to encourage a certain class of small Highland
farmers, called crofters, to emigrate. He has already made an
extensive tour through the Lower Provinces and Ontario, arid, as
will be seen by his speech given below" (and to a report of which
the Sentinel devoted a column), "is highly pleased with the
country, and highly satisfied with the condition of his countrymen
settled therein. He gives the land policy of the present
government a bad character, and not without reason. He is a stout,
portly, gentleman, with genial countenance and pleasing manner;
and during his stay in the village he was the welcome guest of the
Caledonian Society. The Society assembled at their hall, and from
thence, headed by Piper Boss in full costume, marched to the
hotel, where they found prepared for them a feast which was really
magnificent, and well calculated to assure Mr Mackenzie that there
was no danger of starvation in this country. A blessing having
been asked, the company betook themselves to the diminishing of
the rich repast placed before them. Among those present were Dr D.
A. MacCrimmon, chief of the Society; George Kerr, Reeve; Malcolm
Campbell, ex-Reeve; A. Macintyre, merchant; J. G. Smith, do.; D.
Macintyre, do.; L. C. Macintyre, do.; W. Mackintosh, A. Macdonald,
A. Macpherson, H. Ross, K. Campbell, J. Findlater, D. Macdonald,
R. Maccarrol, D. Macmillan, Thomas Macdonald, A. Finlayson,
James Bryan, of the Sentinel, &c., &c."
After supper some excellent music was
provided by the Society's piper, after which the loyal and
patriotic toasts were duly honoured in capitally delivered
speeches. Mr George Smith, in replying for "The Land we Left,"
spoke warmly of the old country, and stated that "without meaning
any discredit to this, his adopted country, there were many fond
memories of his native land still clinging to his heart. He
referred to the prowess and achievements of his countrymen, to the
historians and poets of Scotland, paying a high tribute to Scott
and Burns, and, lastly, he eulogised the ladies of his native
land, to whom as yet he had brought no discredit by taking a
Canadian lady, and spoke mysteriously about going back to get a
companion to share his grief and joys." Mr Malcolm Campbell,
replying for "The Land we Live in," said "that when he came to
this section twenty years ago, it took him three and a-half days
to get over the short distance from here to Goderich," and
referring to the rapid progress made in the district, be said that
when he settled at Lucknow he had no idea of ever seeing a railway
there; "but such was the energy of the Scotch pioneers, and the
richness and productiveness of the soil that they now had a good
railway, and there was scarcely a hundred acres in the county of
Bruce without a tenant." Referring to the origin and success of
this now famous Society, Dr MacCrimnion, replying to the toast of
"The Caledonian Society of Lucknow," said that only "five years
ago he called a meeting of a few villagers of Scotch nationality,
and they have organised the Society which had gone on increasing
in numericial strength and fame, especially the latter, until now,
he believed, if not numerically, it was in enthusiasm and energy
the first on the American continent. ....He felt proud of the part
the ladies took in the success of their games, referring
particularly to the picturesque game of archery, in which the
ladies were appropriately arrayed in Highland costume, and which
was regarded by many as the great feature of the games."
I took the opportunity presented of
referring to my grievance about the want of encouragement extended
to poor Highlanders emigrating to the Dominion, and on this point
Dr MacCrimmon remarked that, "It was something he could not
understand how the poorer classes in the Old Country should
continue to submit tamely to their treatment and present position
while such a magnificent country as Canada was so ready and
willing to receive them and so much needing emigrants. Instead of
their government filling up the North-west and giving special
encouragement to Mennonites and Icelanders, they should secure and
encourage, for emigrants, their own countrymen—Scotch, English,
Irish; and especially Highlanders, who were so loyal and brave,
and who would always be ready to fight bravely and patriotically
for their adopted country. The present system, if allowed to
continue, would be ruinous to the country. He strongly denounced
the land system now in vogue, and which only encouraged settlers
able to bring with them 400 or 500 dollars. Hundreds of settlers
came to the country penniless in the past, who were now their most
prosperous and influential citizens, and why could not others do
the same!" These wise sentiments were enthusiastically received
and echoed by all present, and I trust they will yet, and before
long, permeate even to, and influence the Emigration Department at
Ottawa; and if this they will not permit their countrymen to be
neglected in such a fashion without making their influence felt In
their behalf at the poll at the first General Election for the
Dominion Parliament.
The land in the district was only sold in
1854, and Malcolm Campbell, already mentioned, was the first man
who built a house in Lucknow. His father had the farm of Dell,
near Kingussie, in the county of Inverness, for three consecutive
leases of nineteen years. The son emigrated with very small means.
He is now in a large way of business and in excellent
circumstances. Ewen Macpherson, from Laggan, in the same district,
and David Hutcheson, from Caithness, lay in the bush for a week,
on their arrival, before they obtained a covering from the
elements, but they now possess farms of 400 acres, worth, with the
stock upon them, about thirty thousand dollars. The Macintyres, of
whom there are here three brothers, came originally from Knapdale,
their father being quite poor. His own farm sold at his death for
eight thousand dollars, in addition to which the stock brought a
large sum. He was able to leave several sons a farm of a hundred
acres each. They are all in good circumstances, three of them
being successful merchants in Lucknow. The Macdonalds
above-mentioned only left the county of Inverness a few years ago,
and I was glad to learn that they also were succeeding admirably.
The village banker, D. E. Cameron, I found to be a Lochaber man,
and there were Madilardys from Aberdeenshire, Connells, Smiths,
and others from the Old Country in a prosperous condition, an
acquisition to their adopted country, while they were all still
proud of, and an honour to, their native land. After meeting a few
friends at Mr Macintyre's hospitable table the following evening,
and bidding farewell to Dr MacCrimmon's family, where I had the
pleasure of finding his two handsome boys dressed in superb
Highland costumes, with complete solid silver and Cairngorm
mounted ornaments, and finding that I had nothing to pay at the
hotel, where rooms had been placed at my disposal at the request
and expense of the Society, I bade farewell to my enthusiastic
friends, and at 10 P.M. took the train to
KINCARDINE,
thirteen miles
further on, situated on Lake Huron. Here I met several genuine
Highlanders whose hearts warmed to the tartan. The population is
between four and five thousand, mostly Highlanders. The Mayor is a
Macpherson; and among the leading merchants I found Archibald
Maclean, who is also a member of the School Board; John Macleod;
D. Macinnes, a cousin of Mr Macintyre, Kiel, Argyleshire, and of
Mr Cameron, of MacNiven & Cameron, Edinburgh; Donald Mackenzie;
and last but not lout, Daniel Cameron, a native of Lawers,
Perthshire, which place he left in 1855 to seek his fortune in the
Far West. He has been in an extensive way of business, having
manufactured a great portion of the brick of which the town is
built. He is also a member of the School Board, and one of the
three Licensing Commissioners for the South Riding, or southern
half of the county of Bruce. He has been able to give an excellent
education to the members of his family; his eldest son, having
just finished a distinguished course at the end of which he
occupied the proud position of gold medalist for Natural Science
in the University of Toronto. His specimens of minerals form the
best private collection I have seen in all Canada, and I had the
pleasure of carrying away a few—the possession of which I esteem
very highly. Here I also found another Dr MacCrimmon. Indeed, few
but Highland names are to be seen or met with, and the Gaelic
language is spoken almost universally, and with great purity.
There had been a few inches of snow, and a
somewhat keen frost for several days, but while at Kincardine it
came on a perfect storm, the lake close by looking about the
ugliest thing I ever saw, even at sea. Nothing could live in it,
and several ships, I afterwards found, had, been wrecked during
the night and driven ashore. I rather enjoyed the tempest, and to
add fury to the flames, or rather flames to the fury, a fire broke
out about two o'clock in the morning, immediately opposite the
hotel in which I lodged. The noise soon woke me up. I dressed,
wrapped myself up in my tartan plaithe, marched out among the
crowd, and stood looking on while the wooden structure was being
furiously burned to the ground. I had the pleasure of enjoying a
real Canadian storm, with special accompaniments, and one, I was
informed, which was seldom surpassed even in Canada during the
most severe winter.
A somewhat peculiar incident occurred here,
which, though of more interest to myself than to any one else, I
may be allowed to relate. A few minutes after my arrival I called
at a Highlander's place of business, and, going in, I addressed
him in Gaelic. He answered in the same language. A man standing
outside the counter soon joined in our conversation, which turned
on my visit to the Lower Provinces, and he asked me if I had been
to Cape Breton. Answering in the affirmative, he became anxious to
know who I met, and what parts there I had visited. He seemed to
know all the place and people. I told him I had been on the Island
of Boularderie, visiting some uncles of mine. Naming them, he at
once said that he knew them well, and, to my surprise, continued,
"another of them, John, lives here. He has just sold his farm, and
is leaving to-morrow for Michigan, in the United States." I had
heard of this uncle, but I had no more idea of being within a few
miles of him than I then had of jumping into Lake Huron. He was
expected at two o'clock to come in from his farm, a few miles out,
to settle for the price of it with the Mayor, who was his agent in
the matter, and in point of fact, a few minutes later he was
pointed out to me coming up the main street with a pair of horses.
I walked along to meet him, and said in Gaelic, "Cia mar tha sibh
?" He was surprised at the salutation. I told him I was his
nephew. He could not believe it. He did not hear a word of any of
his relatives in Scotland for many years. He was of course quite
ignorant of my being on the American continent—even of my
existence. I afterwards sawhis wife, and some members of his
family comfortably married and settled in the place. It is
unnecessary to add that we thoroughly enjoyed all the time we had
at our disposal, talking about our respective families and
experiences. He left Ross-shire for Cape Breton, thousands of
miles from where he then was, in 1842, since which date he has
never written to his friends in Scotland; and to meet under such
conditions, it will be admitted, was not a little remarkable.
Having parted with my Kincardine friends I returned to Guelph,
where I spent another day, after which I started, by the Great
Western Railway of Canada, on my way to Woodstock and London,
returning via Hamilton to Niagara, and New York, on my way home.
To theseplaces I shall ask the reader to accompany me in the next,
by which time he must, I expect, like myself, be getting a little
tired of "The Editor in Canada,"
VIII.
LEAVING Guelph I passed through the richest
portion of Canada on the way to Woodstock, passing through Gait,
Preston, and Paris. As stated in my last, I had already
experienced a Canadian winter storm, the glass having been down to
zero; but I did not feel any colder than on an ordinary winter day
in the Scottish Highlands. I walked about quite comfortably,
without an overcoat, while my Canadian friends wrapped them-
selves up to the ears in thick winter clothing and furs. I could
not understand how they seemed to feel the cold so much more than
a strange; and, to quote my own letters in the Daily Free Press, I
expressed my surprise that people whom one would expect to have
found thoroughly hardened to it, should feel the cold more than I
did. I was told, if I remained for a second winter in the country,
that I would feel the severity of the winter as much as they did;
that the heat of summer made one much less able to stand the
winter cold; that the blood became thinner; and that one was much
less able to resist the cold the second winter than during the
first on Canadian soil. There was some force in the heat argument,
but it did not altogether satisfy me. I am, however, perfectly
satisfied that I have discovered the cause of the non-resisting
powers of the Canadian generally against the winter cold in
comparison with a new arrival from this country. The first article
that meets you on your entrance into a comfortable Canadian house
is a reeking stove in the lobby, immediately inside the front door
and opposite the doors of the principal rooms. In most cases a
pipe from this stove passes upstairs and through all the bedrooms
in the house, while generally the sitting-rooms have independent
stoves of their own, in addition, in some cases, to ordinary
replaces such as we have at home. You are consequently living in
an oven, Shops and offices are heated in the same way, and the
railway carriages I found, in many instances, almost
unbearable—positively 806- eating. In these otherwise comfortable
cars there is a stove in each end, and, often, steam pipes running
along at the sides, making each of them a sumptuorsly-seated
bake-house in which you are almost stewed. You put oil' your
overcoat in spite of you. You perspire, and the pores of your skin
are opened wide to receive the cold into then when you get out
into the bitter but bracing atmosphere at your journey's end. This
is what thins the Canadian blood. This is what takes away the
natural cold-resisting power of the new immigrant; and this is the
cause of the pretty common prevalence of pulmonary disorders to
which so many of the Canadians become the victims."
In Woodstock I remained for only a day, and
had little opportunity of seeing the Highlanders in the place,
though there were not a few good representatives of the race, Here
I again met Mr Laidlaw, M.P., referred to in my last, on a visit
to his son, proprietor and editor of the local newspaper. These
gentlemen were kind enough to spend most of the day with me, and
showed me over the place. I had quite made up my mind to visit a
fine settlement of Highlanders, whose parents or themselves were
almost to a man evicted from their ancient possessions in the
county of Sutherland, and who are here, no thanks to their
heartless oppressors of the house of Sutherland, in excellent
circumstances, in the Highland village of Embro, in the township
of Zorrah, a few miles from Woodstock. A heavy fall of snow came
on just as I arrived in the town, and I had most reluctantly to
forego my proposed visit to this interesting colony of my
expatriated countrymen.' I had an agreeable chat with several
members of the congregation so recently ministered to by the Rev.
Mr Mactavish, now of the Free East Church, Inverness, and then
proceeded westward thirty-eight miles further to
LONDON,
a prosperous and rising city, the capital of
the Canadian county of Middlesex, with a population of 35,000
inhabitants, and substantially built on a Thames of its own, in
Western Ontario. It was first laid out by the Crown in 1826 with
the intention, it is said, of founding a town to be called London.
It was not, however, until 1832 that it began to show signs of
increase of population, and vitality, there being no means of
communication with the outer world, but soon after the latter date
it began to exhibit the appearance of a thriving Canadian village.
In 1836, having then a population of slightly over a thousand
souls, it was allowed to return a member to the local legislature,
its assessable value in that year being under £7000. In 1846 it
assumed the dignity of a town, and in 1855, having increased in
population to 10,000, it became a city, and has been progressing
at a remarkably healthy and steady rate ever since. It contains
several very fine buildings, the most prominent being the
court-house and prison, a stately edifice, which cost over
£10,000. There are also several colleges and numerous schools; a
great many churches, some of which are very fine buildings,
especially St Paul's Cathedral—beautifully surrounded by trees and
shrubberies, arranged with excellent taste. Oil-refining is the
principal industry in and about the city, and it has proved the
means of adding very largely to its growth and prosperity. The
manufacture of agricultural implements is also carried on most
extensively, the productions of London in this department taking
first rank in the Dominion, and exported largely to all parts of
Canada, and even to the United States and Europe.
London is the commercial centre of the
finest agricultural region of Canada, and several lines of railway
converge upon it. Here I found awaiting me a depth of from 15 to
18 inches of snow, accompanied by a pretty keen frost, I had seen
sleighing on a limited scale while in Kingston about a month
previously; but here the streets were covered with these favourite
machines sliding past on the snow with a grace and ease which you
cannot but much admire. The occupants are warmly clad, and
generally provided with handsome and comfortable-looking rugs of
buffalo, bear, and other skins, while the gentle jingle of the
bells, which have, by Act of Parliament, to be worn on all
sleighs, to warn the foot passengers of their otherwise silent
approach, makes a most agreeable music. Among the leading men in
connection with the oil-refining industry I found Colonel Walker,
a fine Argyleshire man, who has made for himself a considerable
fortune. The Highland element, however, is not prominent, in the
city, though several well-to-do Highlanders, in excellent
circumstances, are to be found engaged in farming operations in
the surrounding districts, where, competing with other
nationalities, they have proved themselves quite able to rival
their neighbours.
I
intended to have continued westward to Detroit, and on to Chicago,
in the United states, but now the winter was upon me in
unmistakeable earnest. I had already travelled over 2500 miles by
rail in Nova Scotia and Upper Canada, 1800 of which were almost in
a strait line from Pietou, in the Lower Province, to where I now
stood. I had gone over another 1000 by boat, stage, and hired
conveyance, independently of the 3000 miles across the Atlantic;
and I had yet many miles to go before embarking on my way home at
New York; so I decided that London should, for the present, be my
western terminus, and on Monday morning I took train on the Great
Western Railway to the city of
HAMILTON,
a distance of 76 miles in the direction of
New York, on my way to the Falls of Niagara. This is a city of
about 35,000 inhabitants, and of considerable commercial
enterprise. As late as 1831 it had only a population of 653 souls.
Here I met several Highlanders, among them Sheriff Mackellar, a
very popular Argyleshire Celt; and a gentleman who had for many
years taken a leading position in Upper Canadian politics. I had
heard him spoken of in all parts of the Dominion, as a thoroughly
warmhearted, patriotic, hospitable Celt of the very best type. I
naturally expected to meet with a good fellow; and I was not
disappointed. I found him comfortably ensconced in his chambers in
the very fine new City Court-house, his inner sanctum handsomely
covered with a splendid tartan carpet, the only drawback in
connection with it being that you felt vexed to trample on such a
beautifully patriotic idea. He spoke his native Gaelic with the
utmost grace and purity, and hanging on the walls I noticed a
lithograph copy, beautifully written and neatly framed, of a
Gaelic letter from the Sheriff to the Marquis of Lorne, which, in
1878, he had sent to the Governor-General, with a Christmas
present of a brace of native birds, and his Excellency's reply,
also in Gaelic. I procured copies, and have much pleasure in
placing them on permanent record. They are as follows:-
Among the other decorations of the rooms was
a cast of the head and neck of some wretched criminal whom it
became the duty of the Sheriff to see executed shortly after his
appointment; and he seemed to look upon the ugly image with a
peculiar interest, with which, I must confess, I neither
sympathised nor in any degree shared. After an interesting
conversation he was good enough to offer his services in
introducing me to a few of the Highlanders of the city, the first
on whom we called being the Rev. D. H. Fletcher, an Islay man, who
here presided over a large and thriving congregation, and who,
with a few other brother Highlanders. I had the pleasure of
meeting again in the evening at Sheriff Mackellar's hospitable
table. Among others whom I had the pleasure of meeting was James
Adam, an Invernessian, and a famous shot, who on various occasions
distinguished himself at Wimbledon as one of the Canadian team,
and who, for one year, had the coveted honour of being the
champion rifle shot of the whole American continent Thomas H.
Mackenzie, who served his apprenticeship with John & Simon Fraser,
drapers, Church Street, Inverness, emigrated in 1830 with a
capital of only £15, but he carried on business on a large scale
for many years in a general way, and afterwards as a wool-dealer,
he being the first in Upper Canada who broke through the old
system of barter in the wool trade and paid in cash for his
purchases. He was also the first who exported combing wools from
Canada to the United States. He saw Hamilton growing from a
population on his arrival of 653 souls to its present dimensions,
and he still continues to carry on a good business in the city.
Robert Chisholm, Chief of the Caledonian Society, is a Caithness
Gaelic-speaking Highlander; and another leading Celt is Angus
Sutherland, from the county of the same name. Last but not least I
had a short interview with William Murray, a Breadalbane
Highlander, whose name is revered among the admirers of the muse
in the New World as a very respectable poet The Celtic spirit does
not, however, seem to be very warm, or at least demonstrative, in
the City of Hamilton; nor is it really so in any of the principal
towns of Upper Canada, if we except, perhaps, Toronto. Indeed, in
all the districts bordering on the United States, the influence of
the neighbouring Yankee is everywhere seen and felt; some of the
younger generation not hesitating even to declare their opinion
that in many respects it would be better that Canada should form a
Union with the great American Republic. In my exceedingly
comfortable quarters, the Grigg House, London, I was recommended
to the St Nicholas Hotel in Hamilton, but for various reasons,
which it is quite unnecessary to detail, I cannot repeat the
recommendation to any of my Mends who may chance to visit the
city.
I must now
proceed, still travelling by the Great Western Railway of Canada,
through a beautiful, rich, and most interesting country, having
Lake Ontario in full view on the left, a distance of 43 miles to
the far-famed
FALLS
OF NIAGARA.
I have
already attempted to give my impressions of this magnificent
cataract in my special correspondence to the Free Press. I could
not even attempt another description, and the reader, who may
possibly desire to know what my ideas of the Falls of Niagara
were, must be content with an abridged reproduction as follows :—I
was told by many people in Upper Canada that I should at first
sight be disappointed with the Falls, and that warning saved me
from being so. My luggage was checked to the American side, but I
left the train at Clifton, on the Canadian side of the railway
suspension bridge which here spans the mighty Niagara river. As I
left the platform I was nearly eaten up by greedy cabmen, who
seemed hungering for whatever little money remained to me. Even
the New York cabman is a saint in comparison with his Niagara
prototype, who seems to have concentrated in his person all the
vices of the Yankee and the Canadian combined. I was informed that
if one of them once got possession of me a couple of pounds would
not extricate me. That neither suited my inclination nor my purse.
This fellow would take me to the Falls, two miles off, "for a
quarter." That one would take me anywhere for the same sum—that
is, one shilling. It was too good. I resented their apparent
solicitude for my comfort. A few steps from the station I met a
gentleman of whom I made bold to ask where the post-office was. It
was close by. I called for letters which I expected, but the
official in charge was sorting a newly arrived mail, and no
letters could be had, however long they might have been lying
there, until he had sorted the letters just arrived. I could not
even get a word of him, for he enclosed himself in a sort of box,
which made him proof against any eloquence I could bring to bear
upon him; so I went away disgusted with the Clifton postal
arrangements, or rather want of arrangements. Disappointed as to
my letters I asked my newly-made friend as to the best way of
seeing the Falls. He at once volunteered to show me the Whirlpool
and the Whirlpool rapids, the former being more than a mile down
the river, while the Falls were two miles up from where we stood.
My friend was an Englishman, Robert Law, a native of Kent, and one
of the leading merchants in the village.
In a few minutes we were at the end of the
railway suspension bridge. The first sight of the great river was
disappointing. There, and for half a mile further down, it sped,
200 feet below the steep bank on which we stood, careering past,
as I afterwards learned, at the incredible rate of twenty-seven
miles an hour, filling at its narrowest point a gulley 500 feet
wide, it is reckoned—for it is impossible to sound it—a depth of
between 250 and 300 feet, and tossing up its waves to a height of
over 30 feet above its own natural level it is impossible at first
sight to realise the vastness and unfathomable magnitude of the
mighty torrent as it tears through the narrow gorge below. It,
however, grows upon you. You soon find that it baffles
description. It is altogether grand and awe- inspiring. Sir
Charles Lyell computed that at least fifteen hundred million cubic
feet of water, whatever that may mean, rush through this gorge
every minute since the world took its present form, or rather
since the Falls of Niagara have worked their way past the spot on
which I stood, by wearing away the rock for about two and a-half
miles further up the river. By this time you have lost yourself in
fruitlessly attempting to measure the mighty forces before you,
governed only in their mad career by the solid precipices on
either side of the majestic avalanche, where it has worn for
itself a channel even through the everlasting rocks. In this mood
of mind I am led by my friend a few yards further on along the
edge of a precipitous bank to a point where I can see the boiling
Whirlpool. It is a seething and convulsive circular pond, bounded
all round by a rocky bank about 200 feet high, in which the
immense stream seems, to all appearance, to bury itself, and
disappear into the centre of the earth; for no outlet is visible,
and the rocky, encircling wall appears continuous and complete. It
groans, it roars, it heaves. It is terrible, indescribable. We
walk down to its banks, and find that after the current has gone
round more than three parts of the circle, it rushes through an
outlet in the solid rock at right angles on the American side, and
getting opposite this channel you see it careering at an enormous
speed through its rocky way for several miles. We now retrace our
steps to the village, where I parted with my friend, and started
alone, taking the Canadian side, for the Falls. A short distance
above the bridge the river becomes placid and much wider, and
about the same place I obtain the first view cf the Falls. They do
not come up to what I expected; but the deafening noise and the
everlasting spray give a solemn and gloomy appearance to the
place, and make you feel as if you were entering into another
world. As you proceed, the majesty of the surroundings gradually
grow upon you. The new suspension bridge, 1268 feet long,
surrounded by the eternal mist, looks like a more cable suspended
between the lofty towers, over 100 feet high, above the bank, on
either side of the river; while the bridge itself is about 190
feet above the level of the river. You reach it and find it a
handsome structure for carriages and foot passengers, capable of
sustaining a load of 3000 tons, while its own weight and
appurtenances weigh only 250 tons; and it is computed strong
enough to carry 3000 people without, in the slightest degree,
affecting its carrying capacity. I, however, felt, as I passed
over it, that I would rather not be one of that number.
A few yards further on you stand immediately
facing the American Fall, 900 feet wide, tumbling over the side of
the great gorge in an irresistible cataract of milky foam over a
slightly projecting precipice, 164 feet high, into the boiling
abyss below; while, a few yards further on, another fall, 100 feet
wide, shoots out clear from the rock, and dashes furiously on to
the great masses of rock piled in chaotic disorder at the bottom.
But in spite of you, your attention is carried away to gaze in
amazement on the Canadian or Horse Shoe Fall, a little up the
river to your right, at right angles with the American Fall, and
separated from it by a small island, which divides this immense
river—the accumulated waters of the Great North American
Lakes,—Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie— into two, before it
plunges over the precipices which form the Falls. The main body of
water takes the Canadian side of the island, rushing in terrible
force down the upper rapids until it bounds over the Horse Shoe
Fall, 160 feet high, in a mighty, irresistible torrent of livid
green, 2000 feet wide, and about 25 feet thick as it curves over
the edge of the rock into the boiling caldron below. No human
being can give, or form, any adequate idea of the mighty and
uncontrollable powers here at work. They are simply immeasurable,
and if any power on earth can be conceived almighty here it is.
The actual height of the Fall is not very much, and, excepting the
channel cut by the water in the solid rock, the surrounding
country is tame; not for a moment to be compared with the
neighbourhood of the Falls of Foyers. The Fall is slowly but
surely working its way higher up the stream. Within the last three
years, thousands of tons of solid rock have been torn or worn out
of the middle of the Horse Shoe Fall by the irresistible volume of
water which rushes over it to the tune of one hundred million tons
per hour. The gap made by the removal of this vast quantity of
rock has very much altered the appearance and marred the
gracefulness of the cataract.
It has been computed that the friction of
the water wears the solid rock and carries the Fall further back
at the rate of a foot per annum, with the result that it has
receded from Queenstown, seven miles down the river, to its
present position. A simple calculation will show that this would
take, about forty thousand years.
Walking up close to the end of the Horse
Shoe Fall I was much pressed by interested parties to go down the
face of the precipitous rock which formed the river bank, in an
elevator, and get under the cataract. I declined; for I felt that
I had only one life, and, apart from my own enjoyment of it, I
could not forget that others had an interest in it, so I decided
to take care of it. Further, I did not like to be sold, and I had
my suspicions that it would have been 4s thrown away. I went in to
the hotel close by, and a fellow, recognising the peaty flavour of
my accent, attacked me in excellent Gaelic, strongly advising me
to go. He had, he told me, a great difficulty to get Wilkie
Collins to descend, who at last agreed, on condition that my
Gaelic friend should accompany him. He did: and "Wilkie Collins
exclaimed on getting under the Fall, that it was the grandest
thing he ever saw, and that after being there he could never
question the existence of a Supreme Being." I informed my Celtic
friend that I required no new evidence on that score, and that, if
I did, I could not exactly see how it was to be found in the fact
of water tumbling down a precipice; if it had been going the other
way—up the hill, in defiance of the laws of gravitation, something
might be said in favour of the evidence which proved sufficient to
satisfy Wilkie Collins. The Highlander considered me a bad
subject, and no doubt somewhat heretical, and suggested that I
should take the opinion of a gentleman who had just come up from
visiting the lower regions. I did so, and he told me, much to the
chagrin of my Gaelic countryman, that the whole thing was a
sell—not worth a shilling. In fact, that he did not get under the
Fall at all, but under a little drizzle that fell over the side of
the rock. The Highlander was positively disgusted, after wasting
all his Celtic eloquence on such an unimpressionable and
unprofitable subject. I walked back and crossed the new suspension
bridge, with my new-made friend, to the American side. The charge
for crossing was 20 cents, but my companion, who came from the
Yankee side earlier in the day, took a return ticket, on the
recommendation of the official at the other end of the bridge, for
which he paid, as a great favour for the double journey, 50 cents,
while it would have only cost him 25 for a single crossing from
the American side, and 20 from the Canadian aide; but this is only
a specimen of how they oblige you at Niagara. This was "sell" No.
2 for my friend, from both of which I had escaped, and we were
both somewhat amused at the smallness of the swindle to which the
Americans within the sounds of Niagara can condescend.
Some most interesting reminiscences cling
about the place, one or two of which I shall place before the
reader. When this vast country was possessed entirely by the Red
Indian, and long before the deep solitudes of the West were first
disturbed by the white man, it was the custom of the Indian
warriors to assemble at the Falls, and to offer a human sacrifice
to the Spirit of the Cataract, consisting of a white canoe, full
of ripe fruits and blooming flowers, paddled over the terrible
fall by one of the handsomest girls of the tribe, who had that
year arrived at the age of womanhood. It was always considered a
great honour by the tribe on whom it fell to sacrifice one of its
fair ones, and it is said that even the doomed maiden herself
whose lot it turned out to be thus cruelly sacrificed to a horrid
superstition, deemed it an honour and a compliment to be choosen
to guide the frail canoe over the terrible cliff. On one occasion
the lot fell upon the only daughter of a chief of the Seneca
Indians. The Indian warrior was much pained, for even in the
stoical heart of the red man there are tender feelings which
cannot be subdued, and chords which snap if strained too tightly.
He, however, showed no evidence of feeling which could be
discovered by his fellows. In the pride of endurance so
characteristic of his race, he crushed down the feelings that tore
his bosom, and no tear darkened his eye, as the preparations for
the sacrifice were going on. His wife had recently been slain by a
hostile tribe. He him- self was admitted to be the bravest among
the warriors. His stern brow seldom or never relaxed except to his
lovely and blooming daughter— now the only joy to which he clung
on earth. At length the sacrificial day arrived. The usual savage
festivities and rejoicings, which preceded the terrible doom of
the fair one, were going on fast and furious. The moon made its
appearance, and silvered the everlasting cloud of spray which
rises from the turmoil of Niagara. The girl took her seat in the
canoe, which glided with its precious human freight from the bank,
and swept out into the terrible rapids above the Falls from which
escape is hopeless. The maiden calmly steered her tiny bark right
out towards the middle of the stream, while frantic shouts and
yells arose from the crowd of red warriors on the shore. The
affectionate warrior chief had been seen among the rest a few
moments before. Suddenly another canoe was seen shooting out from
the banks to the middle of the awful current It was occupied by
the Seneca chief himself; and flying under his impulse like an
arrow to destruction. It overtook the other before it reached the
precipice of the Horse Shoe Fall The eyes of the father and the
child met in one last gaze of affection, and both canoes plunged
together over the thundering cataract into the terrible abyss
below, carrying chief and child with one bound into the depths of
eternity.
In such a
place it was painful to we and experience an amount of
VILLAINY AND SWINDLING
brought to the very acme of perfection which
can only be measured by the surrounding sublimity and grandeur;
and it is more painful still to find that the Governments on both
sides are not only parties to it, but actual participators in the
spoil. You pay a toll of 25 cents, or a shilling, for crossing the
railway suspension bridge on the carriage-way below. If you take a
cab you pay another shilling for the driver and two for the horse
and cab. The bridge belongs to the Governments of these great
countries, and they actually condescend to the meanness of giving
cabby back half the fare, through their officials, on his return
journey, for inveigling his passenger across. Could anything be
more contemptible? You feel ashamed of all the Canadian
Governments that have hitherto permitted this, and feel sure this
mean and disgraceful fact only wants to be known to make the
American Government ashamed of itself. It is not to be wondered at
that the private Company, to whom belongs the now suspension
bridge, should follow the example of these great Governments, and
act equally mean. You are charged 4s to be taken down, in an
oilskin dress, under the Falls on either side of the river. Of
this the blackmailing cabman gets one-half. You are charged 2s for
going down in an elevator at various points along the banks. Of
this the same robber gets a moiety. If he drives you to a
merchant's shop he gets twenty-five per cent of the full amount of
your purchases, and so on throughout the whole place; and you have
of course to pay indirectly for all the extra charges. If all the
merchants and others combined to resist the extortion, the cabman
would soon find out how powerless he was; but this can hardly be
expected so long as two great Governments succumb to him, and
continue to act art and part in his system of blackmail, and,
shame to say, unblushingly share the profits with him. A tramway
along the banks of the river, which could easily be constructed,
would soon settle cabby, be a great boon to the public, and a
source of certain profit and large dividends to its promoters. Let
Canada wipe its hands of this blot—this hotbed of
iniquity—whatever others may do; for until she does she cannot
claim to have a Government fit to have charge of a decent parish,
much less of a great nation, priding itself upon its advancement
in the march of modern progress and civilisation. I must yet ask
the reader to accompany me from Niagara to New York, Philadelphia,
across the Atlantic, and home to Inverness.
IX.
I
NOW had to bid farewell to Canada, at least for a time, and I did
so with very genuine regret; for it is impossible that any one
could have been placed under deeper obligations to its people,
from the Governor-General down to the humblest inhabitant, than I
have been. This must have been apparent to those who perused my
previous articles. I was only a few days in the country when the
Government supplied me with a free pass over the Inter-Colonial
Railway, which extends from the Lower Provinces to Quebec, a
distance of about 700 miles. I was also offered passes from the
managers of private railway companies, of which in some cases I
found it impossible to avail myself. I was supplied with one over
the whole of the Grand Trunk system, extending to considerably
over a thousand miles; as also over the Great Western Railway of
Canada, the the Toronto and Nippiasing line, and several others;
and from one end of the Dominion to the other I was received and
treated by all—officials and private gentlemen—in the most
hospitable and warm-hearted manner. For this I now beg to tender
my genuine and most hearty acknowledgments. And I do so with the
greatest cordiality, knowing that I expressed opinions, in these
letters and elsewhere regarding certain Government measures, which
were not palatable to some of those in high office, but whose
personal kindness was not in the slightest degree affected in
consequence. In this connection I may be permitted to reproduce
some of the introductory remarks from a letter sent in April last
to the Free Press by a gentleman holding a high and important
permanent office in the Interior Department of the Dominion
Government... Referring to my special correspondence in that
journal, he says—" Your special commissioner having closed the
account of his visit to Canada, and as I am quite sure his letters
must have excited-among the people of the Northern Counties of
Scotland an interest in this Dominion which they never experienced
before, I have thought it probable that the present would be a
good time to renew my. somewhat irregular correspondence, and from
this period forth to endeavour to follow up the good work so
effectively done by Mr Mackenzie.
Will you permit me a few words, by way of
introduction, in reference to some points in the admirable
correspondence of your commissioner I It is but simple justice to
him to say that no man of equal prominence has ever crossed the
Atlantic who ever showed a truer appreciation of the merits of
this section of Her Majesty's Colonial Empire than Mr Mackenzie.
His letters were the honest, fearless expression of opinions
arrived 'at after careful personal observation of the people and
the country; and, let me add, they were the opinions of a man of
sound sense and mature judgment. There was no exaggeration of the
advantages we offer to intending emigrants, but a plain,
unvarnished statement of how men whose names, places of abode, and
family history were given, many of whom came here penniless but a
few years ago, had succeeded, and grown rich and comfortable by
the simpie exercise of ordinary energy and prudence, Nor, on the
other hand was there any hesitation in adversely criticising and
condemning what, in the correspondent's opinion, was wrong or
faulty. If the truth and nothing but the truth be told about
Canada, and by persons whose words carry weight to those to whom
they are addressed, the Canadian people are ready to abide by the
verdict of their friends at home. Mr Mackenzie told the sober
facts, . . . but he must excuse me if I differ from him, as I
frankly told him I did, in connection with one or two conclusions
at which he has arrived."
These conclusions refer to my
criticism on the Government policy in only encouraging people with
money to emigrate, and on their having in the past extended
greater encouragement to Russian Mennonites and Icelanders than to
their own Highland countrymen. it is not my intention at present
to discuss these questions further than I have already done, but
although this is to be the last of the present series, it is my
intention to write occasional articles from time to time on the
Dominion, it advantages as a field of emigration, and the various
aspects in which the place, its people, and institutions have
presented themselves to my mind.
Since my return home I had numerous
enquiries, personally and by letter, for information regarding
Canada as a field for emigration and its attractions generally;
but I invariably declined to give any beyond what I have already
given in the Free Press and in the Celtic Magazine. This
apparently uncivil resolve it is my purpose to maintain; for I do
not intend to incur blame for the non-success of people who will
fail to get on in Canada, as they will everywhere else, in
ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, entirely through faults of
their own. The Government have their regularly appointed and paid
agents, ready to give official information, and to these I must
respectfully refer all intending emigrants to the Dominion.
Leaving Niagara in the evening, I passed
over to the American side of the river, where I had my luggage
examined by the Custom-House officials, a duty which they
performed in the most polite manner and with as little
inconvenience as possible. This is more than I can say of the
Canadian officials of the same class. On my first arrival on
Canadian soil, at Saint John, New Brunswick, I found the
Custom-House officers a most uncivil, troublesome lot, though I
had nothing dutiable in my possession. This was almost a miracle,
for nearly everything is taxed in Canada but the fresh air. From
Niagara I took the Hudson River route, touchi.ng at Buffalo, on
Lake Erie, and at Albany, the Capital of the State of New York, on
my way. At both these places we had to change carriages, an
inconvenience in the middle of the night such as one seldom meets
with on any of the through lines on the American Continent, and
one which, I was afterwards told, I might have avoided, had I
taken the Erie Railroad. The run along the noble Hudson, after
passing Albany next morning, was, however, worth a good deal of
inconvenience; surrounded as it is with some of the most
magnificent scenery on the American Continent; and having
travelled nearly 600 miles we arrived at
NEW YORK CITY
at ten A. M., where, among some very genuine
Scots, I remained for six days, specially to get home in the State
of Nevada, which I found was to sail on the following Thursday,
with Captain Brass and his officers, who had one and all acted so
agreeably and attentive to every one of us on our way out. Here I
was in my usual good luck. I had the pleasure of again meeting my
old friend of the New York Caledonian Games on my way out, the
Hon. Thomas Waddell, President of the North American United
Caledonian Association, who had just come in on a special visit
from Pittston, Pennsylvania. Soon after I was in charge of my old
counsellor and guide, Duncan Macgregor Crerar, now known to the
reader in another and more interesting capacity, and he informed
me that the annual meeting of the St Andrew Society of New York,
which was to come off in a few days, would be a splendid affair,
and that he had a complimentary ticket awaiting me, sent by the
President of the Society, John S. Kennedy, a native of Glasgow,
and the head of the banking firm of John S. Kennedy & Co., New
York. At this magnificent banquet I met about 200 of the leading
Scotsmen of the City and State sitting down to celebrate their
123d anniversary of the patron saint of Scotland in a right worthy
manner. The President, in proposing the toast of the evening, made
an excellent and neatly delivered speech, in which he advocated
liberality among the members, and expressed his thorough
conviction, that if the Society's funds ever became exhausted or
much reduced from the calls of charity, the well-to-do Scots of
New York would always furnish them with the necessary means to
relieve every case of real distress occurring among their Scottish
countrymen; and he stated, as a matter of absolute certainty, that
no deserving Scot, widow or child, without distinction of rank or
creed, would ever be allowed to suffer or be dismissed from the
care of the managers without the aid and brotherly sympathy for
which his countrymen were so famous throughout the world. The Rev,
and famous Dr Taylor, of the New York Tabernacle, and a native of
Kilmarnock, delivered an eloquent address on "The Land o' Cakes;"
indeed, the speech of the evening; while he was almost equalled in
matter and surpassed in eloquence by the Hon. Chauncey M. Depew,
President of the St Nicholas Society—a genuine wit. I also had the
pleasure of hearing the great Dr MacIntosh, who made an
interesting speech, but it was clear that the platform was not his
best forte. Among those whom I had the pleasure of becoming
acquainted with here were William A. Paton, publisher of the New
York World, a native of Edinburgh, and a thoroughly patriotic
Scot; John M. Morrison, a native of Aberdeen, holding the high and
responsible position of Manager of the Manhattan Bank, and who had
been for many years Treasurer of the St Andrew Society; John H.
Strachan, a wealthy barrister, brother of the well-know Advocate
of the same name in Edinburgh, and of the better-known London
publisher and editor of the Contemporary Review; and several
others high up in New York society and an honour to their native
land. I repeatedly met my old Inverness friends, mentioned in my
first letter—Paterson, and Harcombe, and Mitchell, from near
Grantown, Strathspey, all good men and true; and on the evening of
my departure who did I come across but another Invernessian, John
Forbes, so well and familiarly known on this side as the "Duke of
Portland." I never saw him looking better, and he was what I
expected to find him, open-hearted and kind as ever, and insisted
on driving me to the ship. And last but not least, I met Major
Manson, my old Caithness friend, again and again, extending every
kindness, civility, and information that one could expect even
from a countryman who has secured for himself such an excellent
reputation for these qualities among his brother Scots. He was a
Captain in the Highland Guards of New York in 1857, and afterwards
Captain and Major in the 79th Regiment of the same city, with
which he served in the field, and distinguished himself during the
great American Rebellion, when he was captured by the Southerners,
and confined to a Confederate prison for a year and a-half. No
better proof of his affection for his native land and its people
can be given than the fact that to him Donald Macleod dedicatel
his "Gloomy Memories of the Highlands of Scotland," now before me,
"not from any mercenary motives, but as a humble tribute of regard
for your well-known sympathies for the wrongs of your oppressed
countrymen."
The
public buildings, avenues, parks, and means of locomotion in New
York, are on a scale of magnificence quite beyond my powers of
description, and I shall not attempt the impossible task of giving
even a general idea of them.
PHILADELPHIA
is 99 miles from New York, and having had a
day to spare I took a run down to see an old subscriber, who had
called upon me a few years ago in Inverness, and who strongly
pressed me to pay him a visit in his adopted home—a genuine Irish
Celt, Dr William Carroll. I fortunately telegraphed to him that
morning that I was going, otherwise I would have missed him, as he
had an important engagement in New York. I, however, found him at
home, and in the few hours at our disposal, for both had to be
back in New York the same evening, he showed me as much of the
city as it was possible to see in such a short time.
The most interesting sight of all to me was
"Independence Hall," where, instead of less than an hour, I could,
with profit and pleasure, have spent weeks. Here were represented,
in small and common things, the magnificent heroism and noble
aspirations which opposed and overcame tyranny of the most
absolute kind, and securely laid the foundation of an Empire of
Freedom irrisistible in its influence for good, and liberal
progress, in the worU. This common-looking chair, the intrinsic
value of which is not five shillings, was that in which John
Hancock sat as President of the "Independence Congress;" that
rickety table is that on which the declaration of American
independence received the signatures of the members of that famous
assembly; those thirteen old-fashioned, mean- looking chairs, were
occupied by an equal number of Congressmen on that eventful day;
that dingy chandelier gave forth its light during the evening
meetings, .while the great lights of American history were
deliberating on the most effective means by which to upset dark
tyranny by the light of civil and religious freedom. Here is the
original Declaration itself, There a life-size statue of the great
Washington. On the wall you see portraits of the President of the
Congress; Richard Henry Lee, the mover of the resolutions in
favour of Independence; the members of Congress;
commanders-in-chief of the army and navy; and those who were the
most active educators of public opinion in favour of Separation
from Great Britain. There, above the vestibule, is the bell, cast
and placed in the State House steeple in 1753, and which first
announced to he citizens of Philadelphia, and through them to the
civilized world, the Declaration of American Independence. Modern
as these relics are, they are the beginning of American history,
and they represent principles and aspirations worthy of the great
nation whose infancy they commemorate. Imbued with such feelings I
looked upon them with a genuine reverence, which I desire to
cultivate and strengthen rather than obliterate. Cogitating over
what they represent would turn a coward into a hero, and I am
heartily pleased that I visited Philadelphia if it were for
nothing else than to see Independence Hall.
Dr Carroll also introduced me to a gentleman
whose name was not altogether previously unknown to me by repute,
and who, apart from his position in the American literary world, I
was glad to meet as a connecting link beeween the present and the
past, and especially from his connection with Inverness. This was
Dr Shelton Mackenzie, well-known in connection with the American
press, and as an author of considerable re- putation. He wrote
Lives of Dickens and of Scott, which in a very short time went
through several editions; he edited the American edition of the "Noctes
Ambrosianae," as well as several other works of note. He is a
brother of the late J, C. Mackenzie, of Paris, editor of Galignani,
who died a few weeks after I had been to Philadelphia, and son of
Kenneth Mackenzie, the Inverness bard, of whom the late John
Mackenzie gives the following interesting account in his "Beauties
of Gaelic Poetry." He says, "Kenneth Mackenzie was born at Caiseal
Leauir, near Inverness, in the year 1758. His parents were in
comfortable circumstances, and gave him the advantage of a good
education. When he was about seventeen years of age he was bound
an apprentice as a sailor, a profession be entered with some
degree of enthusiasm. Along with his Bible, the gift of an
affectionate mother, he stocked his library with two other
volumes, namely, the poems of Alexander Macdonald and Duncan
Macintyre.. These fascinating productions he studied and conned
over on 'the far blue wave,' and they naturally fanned the latent
flame of poetry which yet lay dormant in his breast. His memory
was thus kept hovering over the scenes and associations of his
childhood; and, represented through the magic vista of poetic
genius, every object became possessed of new charms, and so
entwined his affections around his native country and vernacular
tongue, that distance tended only to heighten their worth and
beauties.
"He composed the most of his songs at sea. His
Fiobairaehd na Luinge .is an imitation of Macintyre's inimitable
Beinn-dorain, but it possesses no claims to a comparison with that
masterpiece. We are not prepared to say which is the best school
for poetic inspiration, or for refining and maturing poetic
genius, but we venture to assert that the habits of a seafaring
man have a deteriorating influence over the youthful feelings.
This has, perhaps, been amply exemplified in the person of Kenneth
Mackenzie. He was evidently born with talents and genius; but,
not- withstanding the size of his published volume, we find only
four or five pieces in it which have stepped beyond the confines
of mediocrity; these we give as in duty bound.
"Mackenzie returned from sea in the year
1789, and commenced going about taking in subscriptions, to enable
him to publish his poems. With our veneration for the character of
a poet, we strongly repudiate that timber brutality which
luxuriates in insulting a votary of the muses. Men of genius are
always, or almost always, men of sensibility, and nice and accute
feelings; and it appears to us inexplicable how one man can take
pleasure in showing another indignities and hurting his feelings.
The itinerant subscription-hunting bard has always been the object
of the little ridicule of little men. At him the men of clay hurl
their battering-ram, and our author appears to have experienced
his own share of the evil. Having called upon Alexander Mackintosh
of (Jantray Down, he not only refused him his subscription, put
gruffly ordered him to be gone from his door! Certainly polite
refusal would have cost that high souled gentleman as little as
his rebuff, and apologies of a tolerably feasable nature can now
be found for almost every failing. Our bard thus unworthily
insulted, retaliates in a satire of great merit. In this cynic
production he pours forth periods of fire; it is an impetuous
torrent of bitter irony and withering declamation rich in the
essential ingredients of its kind; and Mackintosh, who does not
appear to have been impenetrable to the arrows of remorse, died
three days after the published satire in his possession (in 1792).
Distressed at this mournful occurrence, which he well knew the
superstition and gossip of his country would father upon him,
Mackenzie went again among his subscribers, recalled the books
from such as could be prevailed upon to give them up, and
consigned them to the flames; a sufficient indication of his
sorrow for his unmerciful, and, as he thought, fatal castigation
of Mackintosh. This accounts for the scarcity of his books.
"Shortly after this event, his general good
character and talents attracted the attention of Lord Seaforth and
the Earl of Buchan, whose combined influence procured him the rank
of an officer in the 78th Highlanders. Having left the army, he
accepted the situation of postmaster in an Irish provincial town,
where he indulged in the genuine hospitality of his heart, always
keeping an open door and spread table, and literally carressing
such of his countrymen as chance or business led in his way. We
have conversed with an old veteran who partook of his liberality
so late as the year 1837.
"In personal appearance Kenneth Mackenzie
was tail, handsome, and strong-built, fond of a joke, and always
the soul of any circle where he sat. If his poems do not exhibit
any great protuberance of genius, they are never flat; his torrent
may not always rush with impetuosity; but he never stagnates; and
such as relish easy sailing and a smooth-flowing current, may
gladly accept an invitation to take a voyage with our
sailor-poet."
Dr
Shelton Mackenzie is in excellent circumstances, holds a good
position among the litterateurs of Philadelphia, and is in all
respects a worthy son of such a father. He has several near
relations in and around Inverness, but he appeared to know little
more about them than a kind of hazy idea of their existence. When
I mention Captain Jas. Rose, Connage; John Rose, Leanach; Hugh
Rose, solicitor, Inverness; and Donald Rose, cotton broker,
Liverpool, as cousins, the large number of relations in good
circumstances here will be at once apparent to all those knowing
anything of the place and people.
Having obtained a general idea of the city
from certain points of vantage, I started with Dr Carroll on the
return journey to New York, where we arrived in the evening,
having made the run of 99 miles, each way, in two hours. Going
aboard the State of Nevada, after bidding farewell to my friends,
I was glad to find Captain Braes and all his officers in the best
of spirits. Next morning, just before we sailed, I was not a
little surprised to find several of my New York friends coming on
board with Major Manson at their head, and immediately the gallant
ship moved from her moorings a ringing cheer was set up; while Mr
Rankine, an excellent piper mentioned in a previous article, blew
up his Highland bagpipes on the pier-head, playing appropriate
times until we could no longer hear the pleasing strains; and
finishing up with "Will ye no come back again?" an expression of
feeling the realisation of which, I am quite sure, was as heartily
desired by my friends on shore as it was reciprocated by me. We
were soon past Sandy Hook, and faced the great Atlantic on the
morning of the 4th of December last; and, after a splendid run,
the noble ship cast anchor at Greenock on the Sunday week
following, having taken exactly ten days and five hours from New
York to the Clyde. Having spent Monday in Glasgow, I found myself
safely at home once more in the Highland Capital, after a trip of
four months—a trip which forms one of the greenest spots in my
life, and which has satisfied the ambition of my youth and manhood
in seeing for myself Her Majesty's magnificent possessions in
British North America, where so many of our expatriated brother
Highlanders have found for themselves such comfortable homes.
And now I shall take the reader a little
into my confidence. I have been strongly urged by several
influential persons to publish my special correspondence which
appeared in the Aberdeen Daily Free Frees, along with this series,
in book form, my good friend, John Mackay of Swansea, offering to
take twenty copies. Now, in the first place, I question very much
if they are worth publishing in a separate form; and, second, I
have my doubts as to whether they would sell sufficiently well to
pay. I cannot afford to run any risk in the matter; but if I get
sufficient encouragement in the shape of subscribers, I would be
disposed to work the Free Frees articles, which deal with a
different phase of Canadian life, and these into one consecutive
whole, adopting the fullest portion of each, improving, and, in
some places, adding to them. I have no doubt an interesting volume
might thus be produced at a reasonable price, and if I get
sufficient support to place me beyond any risk of loss, I will do
my share. I shall therefore be glad to hear from intending
subscribers at once—price not to exceed half-a-crown, or 60 cents.
A. M.