Both the stranger and the native find something peculiarly
alluring in Arran; and, though it is but a small island of
twenty odd miles by seven, and the world is a large place, few
who have known it fail to keep it amongst their cherished
remembrances. I know an artist who has visited it regularly for
forty years, and who starts again this autumn with a full
programme of work already mapped out, and he would be the first
to admit that much of his best work he owes to the pastoral
loveliness and fine atmospheric effects so notable in the south
of Arran. There are many, too, who, after thirty or forty years
spent in the busiest cities, have been glad to turn their steps
to their native island; others there are who, in the full tide
of manhood, have forsaken the excitements of America and
Australia and come home to settle in the smallest of villages
close by Kilbrannan Sound. Paterson, a Lowlander, writing in
1834,says: "That the Highlanders of Scotland feel the love of
country very strongly is unquestionable; and that it has a
beneficial effect on their moral conduct is as certain. The
dread of being expelled from Arran has more efficacy in
restraining those of its inhabitants who may be inclined to
dishonest, vicious, or idle courses, than all the penal laws in
force." What, then, is it that Arran holds that is so great an
attraction? It is probably no one thing: the wonderful beauty of
the Brodick lanes, with their views of Goatfell's great peak
varied in character daily, nay sometimes hourly, but always
lovely and commanding; the sweet scent of the surrounding woods,
fir and birch, myrtle and heath, and of the hundred and one wild
flowers of Arran, all lend their subtle contributions. But,
indeed, the whole of the great groups of hills which stretch
across the centre of the island, ranging in height from the 2866
feet of Goatfell to 600 or 800 feet in the southern district,
have qualities which are rare. It would be difficult to find in
a small space, even in Skye of the Mists or Mull of the Bens,
mountains as weird, black, titanic as the Devil's Punch Bowl or
Cioch nan h'oige (the Maiden's Breast), which alters so swiftly,
mystically; now almost invisible, merged in the surrounding
peaks, now a mere cone leaning obliquely southward; while now,
seen from Sannox moor, it stands up threateningly,
overwhelmingly, right above you. Nor in all the hills of the
west can there be found anything so like an enchanted fortress
of the Arabian Nights as the wonderful Caisteal Abhail (Casteel
Aval), crowning its huge granite crag over sheer black
precipices nearly three thousand feet below. And this is not
all, for the great hill at the back, Ceum na Cailleach, is
formed in the same cyclopean spirit, and its fantastic pinnacles
seem to tell of further battlements beyond for those to climb
who would attempt the strongholds of the gods. And there again,
to the left of wonderful Sannox glen, stands Cir Mhor, aloft,
aloof, filling up in solitary grandeur the space between
Caisteal Abhail and Cioch nan h'oige. Where can we see anything
as strange and fantastical as this group approached from Sannox
glen?
But, of course, it may be seen from many parts of the
island, nay, it is difficult to lose, it is everywhere, much as
the Paps of Jura Island are visible over half the Kintyre coast,
or the Goatfell group are everywhere with us when we journey in
southern Arran or on the coast of Ayr and Renfrew. Mr. Lawton
Win-gate gives us a charming distant view of this range, for
instance, from Largybeg; and a mountain climber, Mr. Stewart
Orr, has sat lovingly close to the heart of the hills through
dark nights in order to give us his pictures of their more
intimate and undiscovered moods when flushed with the rosy
colours of the dawn.
Certainly much of the charm of Arran
arises from the presence of this stately concourse ; but they
are not all the hills the island boasts. Am Bhinnean in the
same neighbourhood has many moods, and looks down upon us, from
above the white cottages and stretch of wood on the Corrie
shore, with all the dignity and splendour of a Sultan.
The
Cuchullin range in Skye, though it has the upright peaks, lacks
the grand horizontal lines like that of Suidhe-Feargus, which at
Sannox are so finely symmetrical, and group so superbly round
that solemn and inspiring spot.
The next view in point of
grandeur is perhaps that of Goatfell towering up over the woods
of Brodick Castle, seen from the cross roads, and along the
Corrie shore as far as Ard na Beithe (point of the birch trees).
The view, especially on a grey and sultry day, so subtly
Oriental in suggestion, so wide, so dominated by the bare
outline of the great cone rising out of the beech woods and
pastures, cannot be equalled in the West Highlands for its power
of capturing the senses, save perhaps in the approach to Benmore
from the Holy Loch in Cowal, or the view of the Paps of Glencoe
from Ballachulish. |