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1843-1844. CAMPAIGN IN GWALIOR
16th Lancers— Delhi—The
city—Kutub—Feroze's Lath—Divers—Mu ttra —Affairs in Gwalior—Army of
Exercise—Halt—City of Krishna—River ChumbulAcross—Sehoree—Before the
battle—Battle of Maharajpore—The 16th— "The Brigadier "—Search for
wounded—General Churchill—Lieutenant Cavanagh—The muster-roll----Next
night—The killed and wounded— Resume the advance—News of Punniar—Queen
Regent—Around our camp—Gwalior —The fort—Disarming the
conquered—Breaking up— Repassing the field of battle—Meerut—The
welcome—Writing to the papers—Native troops—Hurdwar—Religious
festival—The Dhoon— Return—Batta--A native regiment disbanded—Unrest in
Punjab—Rejoin the Buffs.
ON the day the Buffs
began their march, I proceeded to join the 16th Lancers, to which
distinguished regiment I had been, by General Orders, attached for duty.
Ten nights were passed in travelling by palkee dâk. In early morning of
the eleventh day the Kutub was seen in bold relief against the
indistinct horizon, for the atmosphere was laden with dust. After a
little time, the Jumna was crossed by a bridge of boats; then another
interval, and I was hospitably received by Dr. Ross, to whom I had an
introduction.
Various places of
interest in the imperial city were visited in turn. The Jumna Musjid, or
chief mosque, its domes and minarets imposing in their grandeur; the
balcony in the Chandee Chouk, whereon, in 1739, Nadir Shah sat
witnessing the massacre of the inhabitants; the palace of the once
"Great Mogul"; the smaller building in its garden, within which had
stood "the Peacock Throne"; the remnants of the crystal seat upon which,
in ancient times, monarchs were crowned; those of numerous fountains;
the Persian inscription, to the effect that "If there is an Elysium upon
earth, it is this." But from the ruins around, frogs and lizards stared
at us; the once gorgeous palaces, and all that pertained to them, were
smeared over with filth.
At a distance of twelve
miles from the city stands the Kutub, surrounded by numerous remains of
buildings, the road through all that way being along a space covered by
ruins of various kinds. The Cashmere gate of Delhi by which we emerged
was then noted as the place where Mr. Fraser, Resident at the Court of
the Emperor, was murdered, and where Shumshoodeen, the instigator of
that crime, was executed; it was to become famous as the scene of severe
but victorious struggle against the mutineers in 1857. About two miles
onwards stood the ruins of an astronomical observatory, one of two of
their kind in India, the other being at Benares. A little farther on was
the tomb of Sufter Jung, minister to the princes of Delhi; then
continuous ranges of ruins until we arrive at Feroze's Lath, a metal
pillar, the history of which is somewhat obscure, but on which marks of
shot indicate attempts by Nadir Shah to destroy it. Now we reach the
Kutub, a pillar sixty-five yards in circumference at the base, the
ascent within it comprising three hundred and twenty-nine steps, the
exterior interrupted by four terraces. Legend relates that it is Hindoo
in origin; history that its exterior ornamentation was seriously damaged
by the Mahometan conquerors. Not far from it are the ruins of what would
seem to have been a tower of still larger dimensions. In the vicinity of
the latter a deep well, into which from a height of sixty feet natives
dived, performing strange evolutions in mid-air as they did so.
From Delhi to Muttra the
journey was made along by-paths across country. In camp near the
latter-named city were the 16th, commanded by Colonel Cureton, and there
I joined them. The fact had meantime been promulgated that the
destination of "the Army of Exercise" was to be Gwalior. The force so
named, 30,000 strong, was to be divided into two wings or corps, to
enter that State simultaneously from two directions. That from the south
and eastward comprised the Buffs, 5oth Regiment, 9th Lancers, Artillery,
Native Cavalry, and Native Infantry; that from the west, the 16th
Lancers, 39th and 40th Regiments, a strong force of Artillery, 1st and
10th Regiments of Native Cavalry, 4th Irregulars, and several regiments
of Native Infantry.
While arrangements for
active movements were being matured, those of us on whom as yet cares of
office had not descended, passed our time in visiting places of interest
in and near the cities of Muttra and Bindrabund, both held sacred by
Hindoos in relation to the life of Krishna. In the last-named city we
were only permitted to approach the principal temple that stood close to
its entrance gate, but from the distance we could see, stretching far
away as it seemed to us, the vista of its interior, dimly lighted by
hanging lamps; at its extreme end the emblem of the deity to whom it was
dedicated, resplendent with gems and precious stones. Everywhere along
the narrow streets and from the flat roofs of their houses armies of
"sacred" baboons grinned and chattered at us. A picnic to some
characteristically Indian gardens adjoining the banks of the Jumna
furnished us with another pleasant interlude.
The division of the force
of which the 16th were part resumed it march; in three days arrived at
its assigned position not far from Agra and there encamped, pending the
result of an ultimatum dispatch by the Governor-General to the
disaffected Gwalior leaders. Mean while, arrivals of the high civil and
military officials, additions to the force, salutes and festivities
afforded all of us pleasant occupation am variety.
The answer of the chiefs
arrives; its terms are defiant. War against the State immediately
proclaimed by Lord Ellenborough; portions of the force put in motion
towards the river Chumbul, among them the 16th. The appointed rendezvous
near Dholpore is speedily reached and there we encamp.
A vakeel arrives in camp,
bearer of a dispatch by which the leaden of Gwalior rebels submit
proposals for peace, on their own terms They are at once refused. By
daybreak next morning the force is in motion. Three hours suffice for
crossing the Chumbul, an operation effected without important incident;
establishments follow without delay; camp is pitched on hostile
territory. The aspect of our position and immediate vicinity presents
uneven ground, intersected by deep ravines, destitute of roadways. Our
halt is of short duration. Earl: next morning the force emerged on open
country; in due time arrive( in near proximity to the village of Sehoree,
and there encamped.
Meanwhile, information
was received that Gwalior forces were rapidly concentrating in our
front. Officers on the staff of our Quartermaster General reconnoitred
the country to a radius of ten miles and more around our camp. Soon the
"Chief" issued orders that the march should be resumed next day, and the
Mahrattas attacked if met with.
Conversation at mess
turned upon the probable events so soon to transpire; extemporised plans
by individual officers indicated the several views they entertained of
what was to happen. The very young expressed hopes that the enemy would
show good fight; some of their number speculated on the chances of
promotion before them. Their broke in one of the seniors, who had gained
experience of war in Affghanistan: "I have just been employed in making
a few little arrangements in case of accidents." "Highly proper,"
remarked another "for no one knows what to-morrow may bring forth."
At daylight on December
29 our force began its advance, its manner of distribution to make an
attack simultaneously on front and flank of the position known to have
been occupied by the Mahratta the previous evening. But during the night
they had taken up a new position, considerably in advance, and from it
unexpectedly opened fire on our leading columns. The general force was
at once directed upon the new position. Horse Artillery commanded by
Captain Grant1 at full gallop rode directly at the Gwalior battery;
opened fire upon it with crushing effect, and within the space of a few
minutes reduced it to silence. Having done so, away again at full gallop
Captain Grant led his battery against one on the left of the former,
that had meanwhile opened upon us, our infantry columns plodding their
way, slowly but steadily, against its line of fire. Very soon that
battery also was silenced. The infantry were at work with the bayonet
with terrible effect upon the enemy, with very heavy loss to our own
forces, in men, horses, and ammunition. A third battery began its deadly
work upon other bodies of infantry, in motion onwards. Again Captain
Grant led his troop against it with the same result; then arrived the
infantry, including the 39th and 40th British regiments; then
hand-to-hand conflict, and then—the positions were in the grasp of our
forces.
While thus the conflict
raged fiercely, the i6th, led by Colonel Rowland Smyth, together with
the two cavalry regiments brigaded with them, were ordered to sweep
round the rebel camp, cut off, destroy, or disperse those who, driven
from their guns, might take to flight. The Lancers dashed onwards at the
charge, the bright steel and showy pennants of their weapons seeming to
skim the ground, while at intervals stray rebels fell lifeless. The
Gwalior men, anticipating such a manoeuvre, had taken precautions
against its complete success; the position for heaviest guns selected by
them had along its front a ravine of great breadth and depth. Upon its
edge the cavalry suddenly came, nor is it clear by what means they
escaped being precipitated into it. There was for a moment some
confusion as the halt was sounded; eighteen guns directly in front, six
others in flank sent their missiles through our ranks or high above
them. To remain exposed to risks of more perfect practice would serve no
good purpose; there was no alternative but to retire. The infantry were
seen advancing; down one side of the ravine, lost to sight; up the
further side, then onwards, into the batteries, and then—the fight was
won.
When at first the 16th
took the position assigned to them on the field, it may have been that
my endeavours to discover what was subsequently called "the first line
of assistance" were unsuccessful; it may have been that they were not
very keenly made, at any rate "the Brigadier "—for so was named the
troop horse I rode—knew his right place in the ranks, and so enabled me
to witness the events now described.
Returning to my proper
duties, I joined the parties who traversed the field of battle in search
of wounded. Great, alas! was the number who lay prostrate,—many dead,
many more suffering from wounds. Among the latter was General Churchill,
his injuries of a nature to make him aware that speedy death was
inevitable. While being attended to with all possible care, he requested
me to take charge of the valuable watch he wore, and after his demise to
send it to his sonin1aw, Captain Mitchell' of the 6th Foot, at that time
serving in South Africa. During the night he died, and his request was
carried out by me.
At a short distance lay,
in the growing crop that covered the field of battle, Lieutenant
Cavanagh of the 4th Irregulars, loudly calling to attract attention,
supporting by his hands a limb from which dangled the foot and part of
the leg, his other limb grazed by a round shot which inflicted both
wounds, and passed through his horse, now lying dead beside him. He was
taken to the hospital tents, where meanwhile wounded soldiers and
officers in considerable numbers had accumulated. The surgeons' work
begun, three of us mutually assisted each other. The turn of Lieutenant
Cavanagh to be attended to having come, he made a request that we should
"just wait a bit while he wrote to his wife," for he had recently been
married. This done, he submitted to amputation, and during that process
uttered no cry or groan, though nothing in the shape of anesthetic was
given, nor had chloroform as such been discovered; then, during the
interval purposely permitted to elapse between the operation and final
dressing, he continued his letter to his young wife, these circumstances
illustrating the courage and endurance so characteristic among men (and
women) at the time referred to. His case was one of many men who had to
be succoured that day.
Meanwhile the force was
in process of encamping on the field so gallantly won; the 16th paraded
for roll call, the band of the regiment playing "The Convent Bells," the
notes of which long years thereafter recalled the day and occasion.
Casualties among the men were only nine; but among the horses more
numerous than they had been at Waterloo, where as Light Dragoons the
16th so highly distinguished themselves.
The arduous and
responsible work of the day over, those of us who could do so withdrew
to our tents, our hearts full of gratitude to the Almighty for
individual safety, there to obtain such measure of rest and quiet as
under the circumstances was procurable; for all through the evening and
early hours of night the bright glare from burning villages, the dense
smoke from others, the dull heavy sound of exploding mines made the
hours hideous. Such was the battle of "Maharajpore."
During the evening the
mangled remains of what in the morning had been a band of brave men were
committed to earth. With returning daylight the same sad task was
continued, all possible honour being shown to the dead according to the
rank they had held, from that of General Officer in the person of
General Churchill, who had succumbed in the course of the night, to that
of the private soldier. Meantime, in tents the work of attending to the
wounded went steadily on. There, officers and men whom we personally
knew, lay helpless; among them Major Bray, of the 39th, and his son in
adjoining cots, the former terribly burnt by the explosion of a mine,
the life-blood of the latter ebbing through a bullet-wound in his chest.
And there were many other very painful instances, to the aid of whom our
best endeavours had to be directed.
It was for the time being
impossible to carry on with the army, in its further advance, the large
number of wounded with which it was now encumbered. A guard sufficiently
strong to protect the extemporised field hospital having been detailed,
the general force resumed its march, the intention being to press on as
rapidly as possible to the capital. Along a tract of soft sandy country,
oppressed by heat, exhausted by the fatigue of the previous day, the
troops plodded their weary way, in their progress passing many relics of
the recent fight, including shot, arms, shreds of clothing, dead bodies
of animals and of men, etc.
At last the halt
resounded from trumpet and bugle; for a time we rested as best we could,
and then the tents having arrived we encamped. Some further delay was
rendered necessary by circumstances. During that and the succeeding day
information was received in camp that while the battle was proceeding in
the vicinity of Maharaj pore, an engagement equally formidable took
place between the Mahrattas and the force under General Grey at Punniar,
on the eastern border of the Gwalior State; that in it the Buffs had
sustained a loss in killed of one officer and thirteen men, in wounded
of three officers and sixty men,—the casualties in the 5oth being
equally numerous.
The arrival in camp of
the Queen Regent, together with her Sirdars, and the young Maharajah,
the salute on the accession of whom some ten months previous has been
already mentioned, caused no little excitement, and at the same time
much speculation among us. Later on, however, the report spread that the
result of their interview with the Governor-General was by both parties
deemed satisfactory.
As some among us took
rides in different directions around our camp, not an armed man was met
with. In some of the villages visited individuals who had escaped the
carnage of the previous day were found lying more or less completely
stripped of clothing, and wounded, some of them dead. The villagers had
fallen upon the fugitives, robbed them of all they possessed, then
turned them adrift. They had failed, and they paid the penalty of
failure.
The march resumed, the
force in due time reached the immediate vicinity of Gwalior, and there
encamped. The huge fortress seemed to tower above us, while the
neighbouring hills looked as if from their summits a well-directed fire
could have swept the country to a considerable distance around. Within a
couple of days arrived the force under General Grey and the Seepree
contingent under Brigadier Stubbs. Negotiations had so far advanced that
the latter took possession of the fort, the camp of the former adding
very considerably to the dimensions of the great canvas city already
existing. Rapidly and completely did the routine of life to which for
some time past we had been accustomed undergo a change: complimentary
visits and entertainments, each regiment entertaining every one else and
being in turn entertained by them. By the high officials durbars and
receptions were held, to which ceremonials Representatives of Gwalior
having given their presence, the fact that they did so indicated that
the end of our expedition was approaching.
Connected with the strong
fortress by which the city of Gwalior is dominated were many points of
interest; among them the general aspect of decay as seen from without,
the tortuous narrow lane that leads to it, the steep and difficult
flight of stone steps by which the ascent must be made, and powerful
gates that seemed to lead but to a mass of ruins. Within the defences we
were face to face with remains of temples, pillars, and arches
pertaining to edifices of the Jains; there were remains of what had been
reservoirs of large dimensions and beautiful workmanship, in some
portions of which clear water glistened in the sunlight. Only one piece
of ordnance was met with; it was an ancient gun, seventeen feet in
length, and apparently capable of discharging a fifty-eight pound shot.
The process of disarming
the Gwalior troops was next performed— somewhat slowly at first, and not
without some risk of difficulty, but more rapidly as information
circulated among them that they were to receive all arrears of pay due,
and a certain number of them taken into the service of "the Company."
Then did they march to
the places assigned to them in battalions, their bands playing what was
intended to be "God Save the Queen"; finally laying down their arms and
surrendering their colours, all of which, packed on elephants, were
taken to the fort. The artillery and cavalry gave theirs up elsewhere.
The wounded from different regiments were collected in camp, those among
them fit to undergo the journey towards Allahabad being dispatched
thither by means of doolies and native carts (hackeries),—the orders of
the Commander-in-Chief, as expressed by himself, being that their
progress thither should be by "easy stages and intermediate halts." From
Allahabad they were to be conveyed by means of native boats to Calcutta,
and there embarked on board one or more of the most comfortably and
well-equipped ships proceeding via the Cape to England. For those whose
condition was more serious, accommodation was provided in camp, and in
public buildings outside the city of Gwalior. Among those so left were
three respected officers of the Buffs. Of these, Captain Chatterton and
Dr. Macqueen shortly afterwards succumbed to the disease—induced by the
trials of active service. The death of the third—namely, Captain Magrath—was
attended by a little circumstance which showed that the spirit of
romance persisted to the last in him. During the battle at Punniar, he,
together with thirteen men of his company, were blown up by the
explosion of a tumbril that they were in the act of capturing. Captain
Magrath and twelve of the soldiers with him speedily succumbed, or were
instantly killed. When his body was being prepared for burial, there,
over the region of the heart, was found a lady's glove; nor was it diffi
cult, bearing in mind some of the most pleasant incidents at Allahabac
already recorded, to indicate the hand to which the memento originally
pertained.
A general parade of the
combined forces now took place. On that occasion the young Maharajah
accompanied the Governor-General, b3 whom, in the course of his address,
sufficient was expressed to raise hopes that further service on the
Punjab frontier was to be immediately undertaken. But this was not to
be.
Disintegration of "the
Army of Exercise" forthwith began, ir obedience to orders issued.
Starting on their return march, the 16tI traversed the field on which,
twenty-nine days previous, the battle already mentioned had taken place.
At short distances over its extent lay bodies of men and horses far
advanced in decomposition; fragment of natives and equipments
everywhere. The village of Maharajpor reduced to charred ruins; in their
midst numbers of dead bodies o those who had so manfully stood their
ground and perished as they did so. In what had been a room or enclosure
a confused heap of what had been men further testified to the obstinacy
of the defence. Ir some places miserable-looking inhabitants were
searching among th ruins for property and houses. Such was the wreck of
battle.
Thence to Meerut the
march of the Lancers was uneventful. Halt, for a day were made
respectively at Hattras and Alighur, associated a those places are with
early campaigns of the century. At the latter for tress we visited the
gate and approach thereto through which was made th historic charge by
the 76th Regiment; I then the monument to officer., and men who fell on
that occasion, and at Laswaree soon thereafter Twenty days en route; the
16th re-enter Meerut, whence they ha( started on service now happily
performed. Very touching were meet ings between wives and their
husbands; though to younger and les thoughtful men the full significance
of husband and father restored to those dependent on him had yet to be
realized.
A series of
entertainments, including regimental dinners and a station ball,
welcomed the return to cantonments of the 16th and troop of Horse
Artillery, now under Captain Alexander, that had so much distinguished
itself at Maharajpore. Preparations rapidly pushed on for the annual
race for "the Lancer Cup," and all seemed to settle down for the hot
season of 1844, then fast approaching.
A young (Artillery)
officer had the indiscretion to write to the paper; a severe
criticism—from his point of view—on the tactics to which, according to
himself, was due the heavy cost in killed and wounded at which the
recent victory had been gained. A second officer made open boast of the
help he had given in preparing that letter, and both of them boasted
pretentiously of what they had done. But soon the attention of the
"authorities," including the venerable Commander-in-Chief, was drawn to
the comments in question, with the result to the subalterns concerned
that, as expressed at the time, they were "come down upon like a
sledge-hammer." Popular verdict declared that the example set by them,
if followed, would destroy all discipline.
The date on which,
according to ancient custom, the great Hindoo religious festival of the
year was to be held at Hurdwar was near at hand. As on similar
occasions, arrangements were made to send to that place a small body of
native troops, those detailed for the purpose being men of the 53rd N.J.
and 10th Cavalry, I placed in departmental charge. Our march thither
began in the middle of March. As we proceeded, we went along through a
highly cultivated country, many of the fields covered with "golden
grain," for it was the season of barley harvest. More and more distinct
became the snowy peaks and precipices of the Himalayahs; denser and more
dense the masses of pilgrims toiling their weary way to the sacred
shrine, for the occasion was that of the greater fair known as Kumbh
Mela, held every twelfth year.
Situated directly on the
right bank of the Ganges, where that river emerges from the Himalayahs,
the surroundings of Hurdwar are extremely beautiful, comprising hill,
valley, forest, and stream. At short intervals temples stand; ghats or
steps that lead downward to the sacred stream are crowded with devotees.
In the clear, rapid stream, men, women, children, and fish
commingle—for, like the river, the fish are sacred. The hills
immediately behind the town are of the Sewalik range. Along their face
occur a series of what were roads, though now scarcely deserving the
name; on either side of them are veritable rock dwellings, now occupied
by Fakeers. To the geologist the same range has interest connected with
the remains of extinct animals contained therein; among them, of
Ganesa's elephant, that lived, died, and became imbedded in marshes
subsequently to be upheaved and so form the range referred to.
On this occasion an
estimated number of two hundred thousand persons were assembled on and
in the immediate neighbourhood of the ghats to take part in what was
called "the great celebration." At a given signal by the Brahmin
priests, the masses precipitated themselves into the river, there to
perform their religious ceremonies. Of the number who did so, about
fifteen thousand were women; but it was said that during some previous
years female devotees had been fewer than heretofore. After nightfall
the river was illuminated by floating lamps as already described in
reference to the Jumna at Allahabad, the scene presented being, as on
that occasion, very beautiful.
An excursion to a
distance of twenty miles or so up the valley of the Dhoon, undertaken
for the combined purposes of shooting small game and relaxation,
introduced us to surroundings very beautiful in themselves, full also of
living things, animal and vegetable, most interesting to lovers of
Nature. From the point reached by us a striking view was obtained of the
ranges on which stand respectively the sanatoria of Landour and
Mussoorie, and in the further distance snow-covered peaks of the
Himalayahs.
The mela, or festival, over, without mishap or outbreak of special
sickness, our return march took place. The mid-day heat had become
great; we were therefore glad to be again within comfortable houses at
Meerut, provided with thermantadotes and tatties; and so the temperature
reduced from 105° F. in the open to 76° F. indoors.
Not long thereafter the
greater number, if indeed not all of us, were gratified on reading, in
Government Orders, the announcement that officers and men who had been
present at the battles of Meeanee or Hyderabad, recently fought in
Scinde, Punniar, or Maharajpore in Gwalior, were granted as a donation
one years' batta, amounting in my instance, with relative rank of
lieutenant, to Rs,700-a very welcome windfall.
Certain native regiments
were at this time ordered to the first-named country. Rumour spread that
peace having been established therein, the extra allowances granted to
troops while war was in progress was to be discontinued. In the
regiments alluded to insubordination immediately showed itself, in at
least one of them to a degree bordering on mutiny. A general parade was
ordered; the disaffected corps so placed as to be in face of artillery,
on either side cavalry and infantry; thereupon the sepoys belonging to
it laid down their arms, after which they were paid up to date and
escorted out of the station. The officer commanding another corps took
upon himself to get rid of the ringleaders without waiting for official
authority for so doing. Thus was suppressed what for the moment
threatened to become a somewhat difficult state of matters. This was in
1844. The terrible events of 1857 at the same station were in the
future.
The state of unrest with
reference to affairs in the Punjab continued to increase, the likelihood
of war next cold season appearing the greater from the facts that
military stores were ordered to be collected at Umballah and Ferozepore,
means of transport arranged for, and troops of various arms warned to
proceed towards the frontier. Meanwhile, Lord Ellenborough was recalled,
and Lord Hardinge reigned as Governor-General in his stead.
At the end of April, in
obedience to orders, I started away to rejoin the Buffs, who had
returned to Allahabad. The first part of the journey thither was
performed by horse transit, then recently introduced—the palanquin
placed upon a four-wheeled truck or cart, drawn by a single horse at the
rate of seven miles per hour; for as yet railways had not been
introduced into India. The latter part of the journey was by ordinary "palkee
dâk's; and so, in due course, I was again with the happy regiment to
which properly I belonged. |
