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1860. DEVONPORT—HONG-KONG
Ordered to China—Embark--"
Overland" route —Alexandria - Cairo—DesertSuez—Red S ea—Aden—Galle—
Across the Bay—Penang—Baron Gros and Lord Elgin—Hong-Kong.
QN April 26 I had the
unlooked-for surprise to receive a semiofficial letter from the
Departmental Office, warning me for service in China on promotion. The
note of the circumstance recorded in my diary at the time was this:
"Bitter has been my disappointment on being superseded. In my turn I am
now to supersede others; but the system is not the less cruel to those
who suffer by it." The promotion so indicated implied that I was about
to pass over an entire grade, including its members, all of whom are my
seniors in the service.
Short was the time
allowed to make arrangements for my dear wife and children, from all of
whom I took leave on May 2. On the following day I received further
orders in London, and proceeded to Southampton; on 4th embarked on board
the P. and O. steamer Ripon; by 2 p.m. we were on our voyage.
The "Overland" route was
now before us, its attractions and incidents new to me. The bold coast
scenery of Portugal, towns, forts, and convents succeeded each other at
short intervals ; Mondego Bay; Mafra, near to which the "lines" of
Torres Vedras were begun, by England's great commander. Then the Spanish
coast with its vineyards and olive groves, villages and hamlets; Tarifa,
at the siege of which by the French, in 1811-12, the 87th Regiment
gained distinction by repelling the assailants under General Laval, the
old Moorish walls of that town being clearly seen by us. Now came into
view, on our right, Ceuta, far away behind which rose peaks of the Atlas
range; the great rock and fortress of Gibraltar, between it and Africa
the "gut" some twelve miles broad; then we are in the comparatively wide
expanse of the "blue Mediterranean." Rising to a height of 11,000 feet,
the Sierra Nevada, white with snow and magnificent in outline on our
left, the chilly breezes from which now swept across our track. Next,
passing close by the Cane rocks, where since the previous January a
lighthouse was established; then the sight of the Gulf of Tunis carried
historical associations back to Carthage and its wars. The island of
Pantellaria, pretty to view from the distance, but as a penal settlement
for Sicilian convicts, it is in all probability less agreeable as a
place of residence. Then, on our right, Gozo, the cultivated terraces on
which could be distinctly seen through our binoculars; otherwise the
island looked treeless and bare, the most prominent objects upon it a
succession of fortifications, for it is garrisoned by British troops.
Yet, bare as it seems, Gozo is said to be a "garden" whence fruit and
vegetables are chiefly supplied to Malta. Now we approach that island,
the densely crowded town of Valetta comes in sight; we enter the
harbour, ramparts and bastions on either side of us, the monotony of the
town buildings interrupted by spires and pinnacles; every building
dazzling white. As the anchor drops, we know that our stay is to be
brief; a hasty run ashore, a visit to St. John's Cathedral, the Armoury,
one or two other places of interest, then we resume our journey
eastward.
Alexandria was our next
point of interest. As in the early hours of morning we approached that
historical port and city, the lighthouse, the numerous windmills along
the shore line, were the distinctive objects first seen; as we entered
the harbour, the Lazaretto, seraglio and palace of the Sultan were on
our left. Ships of all nations, but the majority British, swing at
anchor in our near proximity. A steamer conveyed us to the railway
station, whence by train to Cairo, passing on our way an extensive line
of ruins of the ancient aqueduct of Alexandria, destroyed by Diocletian,
A.D. 296; the station of Meyrout, the name indicating Meotis, the lake
or reservoir so named being indicated by a succession of shallow pools,
on some of which "sportsmen" were engaged in shooting water-birds of
sorts ; then the windings of the Mahmoodieh Canal to our left; fields of
bearded wheat and barley ready for the sickle, while in some few places
"thrashing floors" were extemporised, oxen un- muzzled engaged on them,
as in the days of the patriarchs. Crossing the Nile at Kafr ez Zajyat,
the first glimpse of that sacred stream was obtained; then the Pyramids
of Ghizeh came in view, recalling to our minds many associations
connected with their wonderful history; then early in the afternoon we
were at Cairo.
El Kahira, "the
Beautiful"! Under the guidance of a dragoman from the hotel where a
brief stay was made, we started to explore the city. Winding our way
through narrow streets, named respectively the Turkish, French, and
Greek Bazaars, opportunity was given to observe the manners and strange
variety of persons and costumes in those places. Having visited various
smaller mosques, we ascended to the Citadel, the work of Saladin, A.D.
1176, but interesting not so much in itself as for the famous mosque of
alabaster contained within it, that edifice erected by Mahomed Ali, and
now forming his tomb. The portion of the citadel wall whence, on the
occasion of the massacre of the Mamelukes by order of that monarch in
March, 1811, Emir Bey leaped his horse to a depth of 6o to 8o feet, then
succeeded in effecting his escape, was carefully scanned. At a little
distance from it we stood in the palace yard in which 700 doomed Beys,
having been treacherously invited to a pretended marriage, were shot
down from loopholes around, while in a window pointed out to us the
Pasha sat looking on, and quietly enjoying his chebouk. From the walls
we readily followed by the eye the Nile, winding and flowing smoothly on
as in the days of the Pharaohs. Green with vegetation was the island of
Rhodda, upon which, B.C. 1517, the infant Moses was found by Thermuthis,
the king's daughter in the distance the plain of Bussateen, upon which
tradition records that the Israelites encamped in the first day of their
flight. Further away were the Pyramids of Sakarah and Dahshur. Beyond
them the haze seemed to blend with the desert.
Next day the passengers
via Marseilles arrived, and the whole party of us resumed our journey.
It was not long until our train had entered the desert, extending far as
the eye could reach ; in some places varied by sandhills of different
sizes, in others flat, but everywhere destitute of vegetation save a few
stunted bushes. In the bright sunshine the mirage glittered deceptively,
presenting the appearance of sea and islands, to vanish in their turn as
we approached them. A few short halts at stations, and we detrain at
Suez, to resume our journey by sea; we have completed the "overland"
portion of it.
Suez, supposed to be the
ancient Arsinoe, was interesting for the reason that in our approach
thereto we had an opportunity of observing the line of retreat assigned
by tradition to the Israelites in their flight from their oppressors.
But now our movements were hurried; we were quickly on board the
Colombo, ready waiting for us in the gulf, and so away we steamed
towards the Red Sea.
Our progress was
uneventful during the five days occupied in traversing that much-dreaded
track. The temperature of air and sea rose to a higher point than we had
yet experienced; the numerous islands, the greater number destitute of
lighthouses, were material proofs of dangers to navigation by night—a
danger rendered the more significant as we steamed close past a rock on
which a P. and O. vessel' had shortly before been wrecked. As we passed
the position of Mocha, binoculars revealed to us the white houses,
minarets, pillars, and balconies of that Arabian town.
The rock of Aden, bare,
rugged and unattractive in appearance, rose before us; in due time we
were at anchor in the bay. The usual rush ashore was not indulged in,
because of the great heat prevailing, nor did we look with envy upon the
few residents who took their afternoon drive along the strand, our own
amusement consisting in throwing small coins into the sea, and seeing
the great agility of young Arabs as they dived after and caught them.
In the early morning of
June 4, our ship arrived in Galle harbour, the view as we entered rich
and beautiful, the hills on either side and in front thickly covered
with palms and under vegetation, but the heavy hot atmosphere causing a
sense of great oppression. The southwest monsoon was at full strength,
the sea beating in heavy breakers over some rocks at the harbour. As we
entered we came close to the wreck of the Malabar; that vessel, while
starting from her anchorage a few days previous, having on board the
English and French Plenipotentiaries to China, was driven upon a rock,
and wrecked by the heavy weather prevailing. Here we had to tranship to
the Pekin, to continue by that vessel our voyage eastward. While so
delayed, we indulged in the usual drives to places in the neighbourhood,
everywhere through dense forests of palms, alternated with those of
other tropical forms, the atmosphere hot, damp, and oppressive. The
Cinnamon Gardens, so named from what was formerly a principal product of
the island, were in a state of neglect and decay; the cinnamon industry
a thing of the past, like that of the nutmeg, at one time prosperous
while as yet Ceylon was Dutch property; nor was the cultivation of
coffee a success by British planters, the shrub which yields that berry
being attacked by insect and vegetable blights, the general result being
ruin to nearly all interested in its cultivation.
The accident referred to
led to the rescued passengers from the Malabar being sent on board the
Pekin, and our ship was crowded to a degree that speedily became
unpleasant. As we steamed across the Bay of Bengal in heavy monsoon
weather, the ports had to be closed. Then it was that, in addition to
the sweltering atmosphere "below," emanations from opium, that drug
being the chief portion of the ship's cargo, affected us unpleasantly,
first by the sense of taste, then by exerting to some extent its
narcotising influence; it was therefore a most welcome relief to us, as
we approached Sumatra, to get into clear weather, to have everything
thrown open, and so enjoy the delightful change that had taken place in
our condition.
Our next point was the
high and thickly wooded island of Penang. Our ship having dropped
anchor, several of our party started to "explore" that very lovely
island. We drove along well-made roads, on either side bordered with
bamboo hedges, through which flowering creepers stretched or hung in
festoons. Bungalows, each in its well-kept garden, in which grew palms,
tropical fruit trees, and flowers, were thickly dotted about; an
extensive field of "pawn" pepper, then groves of nutmeg trees were
passed, and we arrived at the object of our excursion, the cascade, 140
to 16o feet high. Here, for the first time, we indulged in that
delicious fruit the mangosteen.
Arrived at Singapore, the
busy aspect of the town, with its population Of 70,000, chiefly Chinese,
impressed us. We noted with interest the numerous temples connected with
the sects into which that population is divided. In the course of a
ramble taken for purposes of discovery we were accosted by a Chinaman.
He addressed us rudely; laughing and gesticulating as he spoke, he said,
"Plenty English going to China; they will soon be all shot;" thus
expressing his own views and probably also his desire in regard to the
issue of the war. Among a great variety of articles publicly exposed for
sale were two small pieces of ordnance; nor could the sale of such
weapons be interfered with, as no Declaration of War had so far been
made. 'While our ship, the Pekin, remained in harbour, some of our
number paid their respects to His Excellency the Governor—namely, to
Colonel Cavanagh—whose story at Maharaj pore has already been recorded.
On various occasions
during this part of our voyage, opportunity brought us in contact with
the representatives of France and England, our fellow-passengers. Baron
Gros was generally reserved in manner; Lord Elgin, on the contrary,
frank and open. The latter expressed his views that an advance on Pekin
had become a matter of necessity; in his negotiations with the Chinese,
he meant to ask only for what is reasonable and just, and having done so
to obtain it; but not to take advantage of one concession to base upon
it a demand for another. He was of opinion that the season was too far
advanced to permit of further proceedings than the capture of the
Tientsin forts, as a base of operations for the ensuing spring; some of
the islands in the Gulf of Pehchili being taken possession of to serve
as sanatoria. He observed, with reference to the existence of the
Taiping rebellion, that if on the one hand the influence of the Court at
Pekin were to be seriously weakened, the schemes of the rebel party
would be thereby assisted; while on the other hand severe chastisement
was necessary as retribution for treacherous action against our
ambassadors and their ships at Taku. Therefore, the difficulty to be
overcome was to punish and yet not seriously injure the Imperial power.
But events were to outrun the anticipations so expressed.
Hong-Kong was reached on
Midsummer Day. As the town of Victoria came in sight, the general aspect
presented by it produced a favourable impression upon us; the light and
airy style of houses rising in tiers above each other upwards along the
precipitous mountain face, that mountain culminating in a peak some
11,300 feet above sea level, presented a panorama different altogether
in character from anything we had hitherto seen. The circumstance that
the town and the roads where the shipping lay were completely sheltered
from the south-west monsoon then prevailing furnished full explanation
for the oppressive damp heat to which we were at once introduced. It
became my painful duty to announce myself to the officer, who, by the
fact of my arrival, was superseded in his position, with whom in his
disappointment and chagrin I much sympathised. Indeed, so greatly did he
feel what he looked upon as the disgrace into which he had
departmentally fallen, that his subsequent career was unfortunate; nor
did he ever return to England. |
