My Mother's Folk—Montrose
Skippers and the Baltic Trade— Presents from Abroad—A Partial Eclipse—The
Homespun Era —Basket Mary—A Rigorous Caste System—' Tea-pairties'—Wullie
D-----'s Hoose-warming—A Sma' Gless—A Heartless Drucken Husband—Painter
Tarn—Anecdotes.
My mother's folk were from
Montrose. Her maiden name was.'Brand,' and nearly all her people were
identified with the then thriving shipping interest of that quaint old
seaport town. Her forefathers were doubtless of Danish origin, the name
Brand, pronounced 'Braun,' figuring extensively in old Danish and Norwegian
records; and for many generations back the Brands could trace their
genealogy as always a seafaring people.
My mother was one of a large
family of girls, all well educated and versed in the fashionable
accomplishments of the period. She could paint well, was a good musician,
and in fact to her dying day had a sweet, melodious voice. When the tall,
good-looking country minister from Lochlee courted her, she was accounted
one of the leading belles of Montrose, which was indeed no slight
distinction. Three of her brothers were masters and owners of their own
vessels, then considered to be taut, well-built, roomy schooners or barques,
each of them engaged in the Baltic trade. I can well remember the awesome
delight with which I first made acquaintance with the—to a schoolboy's
mind—romantic realm of adventure represented by one of these old,
foul-smelling, dingy-cabined grain-carriers, which then formed part of the
numerous fleet trading between the east coast of Scotland and the Baltic
ports. No doubt they would be called 'tubs' nowadays, with their gloomy
cabins, their steep, breakneck companion-ways, high unwieldy bulwarks, bluff
bows, and bewildering network of running gear. But many a battle was waged
with northern gale and treacherous icepack in these lumbering old crafts;
and they formed a splendid school for the young and daring spirits who there
learned the lessons of hardihood and endurance which have secured the
supremacy of the seas for the navies of Britain.
The Baltic skipper of the day was an
individuality mi generis. His genus is now well-nigh obsolete. My old uncle
Sandie, who was for some decades harbourmaster of Montrose, was a typical
specimen. Short, squat, broad-shouldered, bandy-legged, weather-beaten, with
grizzled, scanty locks flying in admired confusion from beneath his nautical
hat. Choleric in temper, with a voice like a fog-horn, a face like a 'full
moon in a fog,' hands and arms gnarled like the bark of a tree, with two
fingers contorted and rigid, where the icy breath of the northern seas had
frozen the rope to his hand during one perilous passage through the narrow
Baltic Straits. Such was his outward aspect. The old man did not perhaps
present a very inviting appearance to the casual observer; but beneath all
this forbidding exterior there lurked the kindliest and most lovable traits
of character, and to the simplicity of a child in money matters there were
added the tender-heartedness of a woman to any one in distress, and the free
open-handed generosity of the proverbial stage sailor, whom we find so often
depicted in old plays. Indeed, the Baltic skippers were a class which, on
the high seas, was in many respects similar in idiosyncrasy and character to
the small farmers and freeholders from the high lands of my native county.
Alas! both classes have almost entirely disappeared before the modern march
of so-called progress. The crews were nearly all recruited in the town to
which the vessel belonged. All had to serve a long apprenticeship either in
the fishing-boats along the coast or in the northern trading craft. Although
the discipline was strict, and the fare such as would horrify even the least
fastidious sailor of these latter days, still, as a rule, very kindly
relations existed between captain, officers, and crew. No doubt the spirit
of localism had much to do with this. Then the forced competition of modern
times did not reduce profits to a vanishing point, so that the grain and
timber trade which were then the staples kept jogging along in an
old-fashioned, humdrum, but fairly remunerative way, and possibly there was
more real happiness, contentment, and prosperity than there is now.
I have a lively recollection
of the first time when, with my brother Bob, we managed to escape from our
grandmother's comfortable villa in the suburbs of Montrose, and made our way
down to the docks, where my uncle's schooner, the Alexander, was then lying.
The mate, knowing of course
who we were, gave us the run of the ship, and oh! the thrilling delight with
which we explored the marvellous recesses of the cabin, hold, and focsle. I
remember my brother straining his strength to lift me up to the top of the
biscuit bin, where, deep down, amid weevils and cockroaches, lay a few
battered remnants of the much-prized 'cabin biscuit.' These were as hard as
a granite paving - stone, and about as palatable; but to us they seemed a
veritable treasure-trove. In trying to reach down, my weight proved too much
for Bob's restraining muscles, and I went 'flop' to the bottom of the bin,
where I lay huddled up amid the moving menagerie of crawling vermin, until
Bob's yell of dismay brought help in the shape of old Uncle Sandie, who
jerked me out. Seeing that I was more frightened than hurt, he put a climax
on the adventures of this memorable day by nearly choking me with a pannikin
of gin, which was his specific for c all the ills that flesh is heir to/ but
which was certainly rather unsuitable for a schoolboy scarce entered on his
teens. It nearly choked me.
When the Baltic fleet came
back from a northern voyage, many were the delicacies that found their way
even up the Glen to the old manse. The chief of these were smoked reindeer
tongues, and strong waters in curious hand-painted bottles or flasks of thin
white glass with narrow necks. Then there were flat clouded flasks filled
with the most potent healing medicament, known as Riga Balsam, the virtues
of which were vaunted all over the country-side. Sooth to say, for cuts and
bruises no embrocation could well have been more remedial in its effects.
Square bottles of Hollands, too, must have not unfrequently been smuggled
ashore ; and rolls of tobacco, almost saturated with the pungent properties
of tarry yarn, were smuggled ashore by the sailors. I have often seen them
in my young days being displayed to the villagers in the bothies of the
farms, and in the village workshops, as a rare prize. But perhaps the
present from foreign parts most valued by the thrifty housewife was what,
think you ? Well, just the tail of a musk rat. This caudal appendage to the
predatory rodent was carefully treasured up in the napery chest, or in the
linen closet, and it was considered quite an acquisition. When company had
to be entertained the spotless napery was displayed, and charged the
atmosphere with an all-pervading odour of musk, giving evidence to the
assembled guests that some Baltic skipper was numbered amongst the circle of
the guidwife's friends.
Many skippers were no doubt
of the Mynheer Van Dunck order; that is to say, 'they never got drunk,' but
the quantities they ' tippled' would have amazed the teetotal statistic
compilers nowadays.
On one occasion, my uncle
having met an old crony —one Captain Hodge—had stayed out 'Boosin' at the
nappy' till almost 'The wee short 'oors ayont the twal',' until at length
they thought it high time to proceed down Bridge Street to their respective
homes. Now it happened that good old Dr. Patterson, the revered incumbent of
the 'Auld Heich Kirk' and who was very fond of astronomical observations,
had just come out in the chill night air to look at an expected partial
eclipse of the moon which was then due. It was a beautiful clear moonlight
nighty the snow crisp under foot, and the air snell and keen. The two worthy
skippers, arm in arm, had taken the middle of the broad street, and with
many a lurch and supererogatory tack were bearing down towards their
domestic haven. All of a sudden, Captain Hodge descried the tall, spare
figure of his reverence, and with a ludicrous assumption of sobriety, and a
swift intuition of the possible censure that the minister might pass upon
them for their rather profuse potations, he steered Uncle Sandie to the
side-path which led past the minister's house. Then he himself, cunningly
bringing his hat down over his brow, made an outward tack, and kept on his
way along the main channel of the broad street. It was rather mean of him, I
think, for he was the bigger culprit of the two, and deserved most of the
blame for keeping my old uncle out to such an ungodly hour; but his cunning
little manoeuvre was not to meet with the success he expected from it. At
the critical moment, when the old minister was craning his neck, gazing into
the placid heavens, the treacherous cargo of schnapps, aboard the rotund
skipper, caused him to make a desperate lurch; and the minister turning
round, wondering who could be waking the echoes at such an untimely hour,
called out 'Who goes there?' Taken quite aback, the lumbering skipper,
forgetting his caution, and forsaken by his cunning, but with the leading
idea still prominent in his fuddled intellect, hiccoughed out, 'It's no me,
Dr. Patterson, it's Captain Braun!'
You may depend upon it that
the two worthies did not hear the last of this little episode for many a
long day.
I have said that in those
days the factory system, such as we now understand it, had not yet arisen.
Indeed, craftsmen and artisans each worked at his calling with his
journeymen and apprentices in his own shop, generally attached to the
dwelling. So did the shopkeeper. He, assisted by his true helpmate—for a
wife was that in those days—lived over or at the back of the shop, and in
nearly all little country towns, a good piece of garden ground was an
appendage to the establishment. When business was slack, the spare hours
were utilised in garden work, and the tinkling little bell attached to one
half of the door, by its noisy clamour, gave notice of any chance customer
coming to the shop. All the people as a rule were well fed and well clad. In
the country districts especially, nearly all the hosiery and much of the
outer garments were homespun. Rents were moderate, as were wages; but the
people were thrifty and saving, and had the knack of accumulating. The
vagrancy and squalid poverty of modern times were practically unknown. Until
the advent of railways, the population was almost exclusively Scotch; in
fact, even in my boyish days I can only remember one individual—of the Irish
race — ever being seen in our village. She was a fine buxom dame, with all
the volubility and proverbial quick-witted good nature of her race, and she
went by the name of 'Basket Mary.' Her husband was a basketmaker in Brechin,
and Mary trudged through the county, selling the wares he made, in addition
to a stock of ballads, and blackletter hornbooks, or chap-books. These were
printed on coarse paper, in abominable type, with woodcuts of the most
archaic character, some of which were little if anything superior to the
primitive hieroglyphics presented to us in the quaint reproductions of some
of our antiquarian societies. The subjects of these ghastly literary efforts
were generally, to use the words of the prayer-book, 'battle, murder, and
sudden death' especially 'murder'; and Mary used to get a ready welcome in
all the farmhouses around Edzell and Glenesk by the recital of some of the
most stirring and blood-curdling episodes in her collection, delivered with
a breathless volubility and true Milesian accent, which latter you could
have cut with a blunt knife.
Of course in Montrose, as in
all the other county towns, there were various grades of society: the county
families, the merchant skippers, the mdre genteel tradespeople, the little
professional coteries, lawyers, doctors, etc., the respectable tradesfolk,
and so on, down through the various grades, until you came to the waterside
contingent, generically spoken of as the 'fisher folk.' There was a
well-defined caste system pertaining to all these various grades in the
social cosmogony of the little town, quite as iron-bound in its way as the
caste system of India. Occasionally, by dint of some lucky marriage
connection, by the amassing of wealth, or by the exhibition of some
extraordinary social gift or intellectual powers, some member of the lower
class might manage to set his foot on a higher rung of the social ladder;
but these cases were rare.
' Tea - panties,' which were
the popular form of entertainment, were confined exclusively to the special
coterie sanctioned by family tradition and the unwritten law of custom. If
you belonged to a certain set you could predicate with absolute certainty
the company you would meet at one of these staid ceremonials. If the banker
gave a 'pairty,' you would meet so and so. If the lawyer, the company would
likely be much the same; but if one of the Captains' wives was the giver of
the feast, possibly a more miscellaneous gathering might be met. The laws
relating to comestibles and forms of procedure were also most accurately
defined. You must take just so many cups of tea; you must taste three or
four kinds of tea cake, and you were expected to make the same laudatory
comments on each kind, increasing the number of your superlatives as you
proceeded from the first kind of cake to the last. The preserves had to be
pree'ed and praised in the same way; and then the small talk had to proceed
by delicate gradations from the vaguely-general to the
minutely-particular-personal. When the latter stage was reached, the tall
caps of the dowagers, with their nodding plumes, got dangerously close to
each other, and by that time the 'lords and masters' would be through their
second tumbler of whisky-toddy.
One quaint illustration of
this almost vanished phase of social life comes back to me as I write. It
was a favourite reminiscence of my wife's mother, who was a true Montrose
lady of the old school, and bridesmaid to my mother, whose cousin she was.
A master baker, who had made
some fortunate speculations in flour and grain, and had thereby amassed
considerable wealth, got possessed by a feverish desire, urged thereto by
his keen, ambitious, and rather fullblown guidwife, to enter the charmed
circle of gentility one degree above that in which they had hitherto lived.
He built himself a pretentious mansion, which was furnished in the latest
fashionable designs from Edinburgh; and by dint of a little flattery here
and a little cajolery there, and other feminine manoeuvres, the guidwife had
managed to secure acceptances to her invitations for 'a hoose-warmin, pairty'
from a number of the genteel folks whose envied ranks she sought to enter.
The momentous night of the
'tea-pairty' at length arrived. Wullie, her 'man,' had long been famous for
his dexterity and skill in the manufacture of the finest sorts of tea
bread—in fact no tea-pairty in Montrose was considered complete without
'heckled biscuits' and 'shortie' from Wullie D------; and both Wullie and
his guidwife had determined that no effort on their part would be spared to
provide the most toothsome specimens his art could supply. You can imagine
the scene. All the genteel dames of various classes had met in the spacious
new 'drawing-room'; and here under one roof were met ladies who had seldom
or never met each other before under such circumstances, so that the
scanning of dresses and head-gear was of a very searching character.
The sonsy guidwife kept
bobbing up and down in a state of pitiable frustration. In the meantime poor
Wullie, bathed in perspiration, and as red as a lobster from the heat of the
oven, was superintending the last delicate touches to his preparations in
the bakehouse near by. Message after message was sent out by the agitated
house mistress, until at length Wullie, driven nearly to desperation by the
slowness of the oven and this perpetual demand on his nervous energy, lost
his temper, and presenting himself at the drawing-room door before the
astonished assemblage delivered the following protest: 'Deil tak' yer
tongue, guidwife; gin ye want heckled biscuits, ye'll hae to get anither
baker neist time'; and then, remembering the gravity of the occasion, he
apologetically bowed to the astonished ladies and said: 'It's a' richt noo,
leddies, but jist hover a blink till I cheenge ma breeks!'
Another notorious character
in Montrose went by the name of Johnnie Baxter. On one occasion, so the
story goes, he had been sent for by the housekeeper of one of the leading
families to exercise his craft as a stonemason, some brickwork at the back
of the chimney requiring repairs. What with soot and dust the job was rather
a forbidding one, and the frugal housekeeper, coming in in the midst of the
confusion, remarked to Johnnie, 'That's a gey stourie job, Johnnie'
'Deed ye may weel say that,
mem,' responded Johnnie; it's michty dry.'
'Perhaps you would like a
little drop of spirits?' said the lady.
'Losh, mem, it would gang
doon fine the day,' said Johnnie, spitting out some dust as he spoke.
Away went the good lady for
the promised refreshment, Johnnie in the meantime gloating in pleased
anticipation of the expected treat. You may imagine his feelings when the
good housewife reappeared with a very small liqueur glass in which was dimly
discernible a very small modicum of fine old whisky, whose delicious aroma
diffused itself through the atmosphere, still further provoking Johnnie's
thirst.
Johnnie eyed the minute
prescription very disconsolately, and fingered the tiny glass rather
gingerly. His hostess, misunderstanding his mien and attitude, said
encouragingly:
'Oh, tak' it up, Johnnie;
it'll no hurt ye.'
With a look of disgust
Johnnie tossed the mouthful down, saying at the same time, 'Deed no, mem, it
widna hurt me 'gin it was veetrol.'
Some time afterwards poor
Johnnie's wife drew near to death's door, having been for a long time a poor
weary invalid. In fact, the doctors had pronounced her case hopeless. Dr.
Laurence had called, and in reply to Johnnie's lachrymose inquiries, had
simply told him that the poor woman was past human aid.
'But is there onything I can
do for her?' said Johnnie.
'Well,' said the Doctor,
'medicine can do her no good. She is very near death's door; all you can do
is to attend to her comforts, and you might give her a little stimulant.'
Away went Johnnie to fulfil
the worthy Doctor's instructions. Having purchased the prescribed quantity
of spirits, he 'treated his own resolution' to a dram, and then, two or
three more cronies coming in, they shared 'a mutchkin or twa' between them.
This was sufficient to rouse Johnnie's fatal appetite, and when he got home
he found his poor wife much worse. Remembering what the Doctor had told him,
he listened to the Satanic promptings of his evil genius, and sent the sick
woman's stimulating draught to join the company of its predecessors.
Presently the Doctor called again, and no doubt observing, by the aid of
more than one of his senses, that Johnnie had been 'looking upon the wine
when it was red,'—being moreover rather dubious of Johnnie's moral rectitude
when whisky was in question,—he asked him point blank, 'Weel, Johnnie, did
ye get yer wife the stimulant I ordered?'
'Ou ay,' said Johnnie with a
hiccough, 'I got the steemulant.'
'Ay, but did ye administer
it?' said the Doctor.
Then Johnnie, with a fine
outburst of drunken candour, said: 'Weel, as fac's deith, Doctor, I got the
whusky for her, but ye see ye tell't me she couldna last till mornin', and
that naethin' would dae her ony guid, so I jist thocht it's a peety tae
waste guid whusky, and so, Doctor' (this with a sigh), 'I jist took the
drappie masel';' but he hastened to add, seeing a look of strong disgust on
the Doctor's face,' I gied her the hooch o't'.
Painter Tarn was another
Montrose worthy, whose name denotes his calling. He was extremely fond of
whisky, and was continually getting into trouble through his indulgences. He
had a peculiar impediment in his speech, and when in his cups it became more
apparent. On one occasion, shortly after coming out of jail, where he had
served sentence for drunkenness, he got some temporary employment painting
the church. The minister happened to be passing and inquired what he was
doing there.
'Ah, minister, I'm gaein' in
for the kirk, efter comin' oot o' c-c-c-college,' said the ready-witted
rogue.
On another occasion, being in
his chronic state of impecuniosity, he applied to a somewhat religious old
maiden lady for a job. This she said she was unable to give him, but being
of a very persistent nature, and noticing that her floorcloth was very much
the worse for wear, he offered to paint it with an illustration of some
biblical subject, suggesting, for example, ' the children of Israel crossing
the Red Sea/ For this he wanted seven and sixpence; but the old lady
objected to the price, and after a great deal of haggling Painter Tarn
agreed to do the work for five shillings. He took the floorcloth home, and
in the course of a few days returned with it painted a brilliant red.
'Ay,' said the old lady on
looking at her bargain, 'and where's the children of Israel, Tarn?'
'C-c-ca' wa', ye silly auld
limmer; wid ye hae them whamlin' i' the watter yet?'