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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I I II THE KEW STATISTICAL ACCOTST S C T L 1 S D. TOU XJl THE NEW STATISTI C AL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. XII. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMBaTTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. VOL. XII. ABERDEEN. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. ABERDEEN. CONTENTS. or \ ABERDEEN, • • PAGE 1 ABBEDOUR, • • « 258 ABOTNE AND GLBNTANNER, 1047 ALFORD, • • • 485 AUCBINDOIR AND KEARNy • 406 AUCHTERLESS, • • • Sr85 BRLIIELVIE, • • 241 BIRSB, • • • 786 BOURTRIB, • • 620 CAIRNIB, • • . . 1017 CHAPEL OF GARIOCH, 560 CLATT, • • • 846 CLUNY, ■ • 1018 COULL, • • . 957 CRATHIE AND BRAEMAR, 646 CRIMOND, • • • 702 CRUDBN, • • • 97» CULSALMOND, • • . 727 DAVIOT, * • 1 821 DEER, NEW, • • • 175 DEER, OLD, • • . 138 DRUMBLADE, • • • 297 DRCMOAK, • • • 872 DYCB, . • • • 120 BCHT, • • « 735 ELLON, • • • 899 FINTRAY, 1 • • 166 FORGUE, • • • • 598 FOVERAKy ■ • 697 FRASERBURGH, • • • 249 FTVIE, • • • 315 GLENBUCKET, • • • 436 QLBNMUICK, TULLICH, AND GLENGAIRN, 772 HUNTLY, • • • 1036 INSCH, • • • 747 INVERURIE, • • • 677 KBIG, • • • 943 KE1TH>HALL AND KINKBLL, 74a KEMNAY, • • %W Vlll COHTBHTS. KENNETHMOMT, • • PAGE 563 KILDRUMMY, • • 976 KINCARDINE o'nIEL, 831 KINBLLAR, • • 114 KINQ EDWARD, • • 274. KINTORE, ■ • 655 LEOCnEL AND CUSIINIE, 1 102 LESLIE, » , 1019 LOGIE'BUCBAN, 799 LOGIE-COLDSTONE 1 •> . 1070 LONGSIDE, 859 LONMAY, • • 215 LUMPHANAN, 1079 MACHAR, NEW, . 1025 MACHAR, OLD, 1074 MELDRUM, 474 METHLICK, 962 MIDMAR, 629 MONQUHITTER, 762 MONYMUSK, 469 NEW DEER, 175 NEWHILL8, 237 NEW MACHAR, 1025 OLD DEER, 138 OLD IIACHAR, 1074 OYNE, 634 PETERCULTBR, 105 PETERHEAD, PIT8LIG0, 396 PREMNAY, 692 RATHEN, 293 RAYNE, 421 RUYNIE, 1015 ST FERGUS, 185 SKENE, 1096 SLAINS, 598 STRATBDON, 585 8TRICHEN, 687 TARLAND AND MIGVIE, 839 TARVBSy • • 667 TOUGH, • • 611 TOWIE, • • 416 TULLYNESSLE AND FORBES, 439 TURRIFF, • • 981 TYRIE, • • 717 UDNY, • • 131 \*-'f rw*^' ^ • «i- - - ■ **» : t 1 i-i" -g /{ r ir ' jf '.g.";' " ' '"-"-^ ;:-::.:r--^-v:rT:.: ,^|, >...«...: L , L ' I "^^fe wrfjVjjf/ ^^^^^^ ^ ,..•''/ ; N ^ •*»• •. •■.«***- f CITY OF ABERDEEN.* PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES FOOTE, Minister of the East Church. THE REV. ALEXANDER D. DAVIDSON, West Church. THE REV. JOHN MURRAY, North Church. THE REV. WILLIAM K. TWEEDIE, South Church. THE REV. A. L. GORDON, Grayfriars. THE REV. ALEXANDER SPENCE, St CUmenU. TflE REV. HUGH MACKENZIE, SpringGarden Church (Gaelic.) THE REV. DAVID SIMPSON, Trinity Church. THE REV, JOHN ALLAN, Union Church. THE REV. JOHN STEPHEN, John Knoxs Church. THE REV. WILLIAM PRIMROSE, Melville Church. I. — Topography and Natural History. Aberdeen, a city of considerable size and extensive com- merce, is situated along the left bank of the river Dee^ near its mouth, extending about a mile from east to west, and stretching to nearly an equal distance northward from the river. Name. — Various conjectures have been formed respecting the etymology of the name of this city, of which the two following are the most worthy of notice : Mr Kennedy, in his Annals of Aberdeen, says, on the autho- rity of the late Mr Maclachlan, Rector of the Grammar- School of Old Aberdeen, that ^^ the Gaelic name, Obairreadhain^ pronoun- ced Oberrayrij signiBes the town situated on the bank or space of ground near the entrance of two rivers ; and is composed of Abair or Aber^ a well-known word, and Da^abhuinn^ f DaHiwin)^ two rivers, namely. Dee and Don. This analysis is exactly descrip- tive of the local situation of Aberdeen, which in former ages was almost at an equal distance from the mouths of both rivers, although about a century ago the channel of the Don, near the town, was altered, and the stream diverted straight into the sea, about a mile • * Drawn up by William Henderson, M.D. Aberdeen, — the articles Ecclesiastical State and State of Education being contributed by the Rev. Abercromby Gordon ; Fisheries, by the Rev. Alexander Spence; Bridewell, by Alexander W. Chalmers, £sq. ; Mechanics* Institution, by Thomas Scott Benzie, Esq. ; Gordon's Hospital^ by the Rev. W. K. Tweedie. ABERDEEN. K 2 ABERDEENSHIRE. further northward than its ancient efflux ;" and he endeavours in a note to give further probability to this etymology, by saying, " pro- bably at some very remote period, Don had continued its former course still further southward down the hollow of the links, till it united with Dee in the harbOur, and both together would form one stream into the ocean. Such conjecture is in some measure con- firmed by the works of Ptolemy and Richard (of Cirencester), there being no such river as Don delineated in their maps, or even mentioned in their tables, while Diva (Dee) and Ituna (Ythan) in the district of the Taixali, are particularly noticed. In the ear- lier records of the burgh, the river Don is distinguished solely by the name of Jqua BorealisS' * The conjecture advanced by Mr Thom in his History of Aber- deen, is expressed in these words : ^* The name Aberdeen is com- posed of the Gaelic A'bar^ and dun^ which signifies the hill in the marsh. Jber, spelt Abar in Gaelic, is a compound of two words, at^, water, and bar, an obstacle ; hence it signifies a marsh."f Various considerations seem adverse to these conjectures. In the^r^^ place, there is no vestige in either record or tradition, of the Don having ever run south into the Dee, nor does it seem like- ly that it should hold for two miles a course parallel to the sea- shore, and separated from it only by a line of sand-hills so low and loose in several places as sometimes to be broken through by a high tide when pains are not taken to prevent it. On the contrary, if probability may be appealed to in the absence of evi- dence, it seems much more likelv that the course which it has held since the year 1727, (when advantage was taken by the salmon- fishers of a breach made in these hills by a high tide or land- flood, to alter the place of its mouth), was the ancient one, run- ning straight into the sea, instead of turning suddenly at a right angle, along the back of the sand-hills. In the second place, no argument can be founded on the silence of Ptolemy respecting the Don, for he does not mention above half of the rivers that run into the German Ocean, and the Ituna which he notices, is not in the district of the Taixali, but on the west side of the island, and has a longitude assigned to it of 18^, 30' while that of Divcb ostium is 26^. It cannot, therefore, be the Ythan ; and as it is termed by him an estuary, and placed immediately to the north of More- cambe bay, it seems clear that it is the Solway which he meant to point out by this designation. And in the third place, it seems • Annal^ Vol. i. p. 5. f History, Vol. i. pp. 28, 29. ABBROEEN. 3 fiur-fetched to derive a part of the name of the city either from the supposed junction of two rivers, or from the word signifying a hill, when the name of the river that runs close by it supplies the syl- lable that is wanting, without requiring to undergo any change. Ptolemy places the river Diva in the territory of the Taixali, who occupied the most easterly part of Albion, and he mentions the city Devana as being in the same province.* These, then, cor- respond with the situation of the river Dee, and of some city near it The exact site of the Devana of Ptolemy has been disputed ; ** General Roy," as Mr Thom observes, •* having placed it at Old Aberdeen, and the laborious author of Caledonia somewhere in the parish of Peterculter;"-}- the former being about a mile north from Aberdeen, and the latter about seven miles south-west of it, on the banks of the Dee. That the Romans adopted and Latinized the name of the river, seems probable from this consideration, that while in very many cases the Roman names given to rivers have no analogy with those by which they are now known, we find in several districts of the Celtic territories, rivers whose present names, though apparent- ly not of Latin derivation, are almost identical with the names under which they occur in the writings of Ptolemy and other an- cient authors, for example the Dee, in Galloway, mentioned by Ptolemy as the Deva in the country of the Selgovii, the Dee in Cheshire, called by him the Deva in the territory of the Cornabii, and the Deba in Guipuzcoa, which is noticed by him under the name of Diva in the country of the Caristi. It need not excite wonder that we find no vestige of the name Devana given to the settlement of the Taixali by the Romans, except in the writings of the ancients, for although the Romans adopted from the natives the name of the river, there was no reason why the natives should give up the name by which the town placed on its banks had previously been known to them, in order to copy from their in- vaders the name which they chose to affix to it It seems in a high degree probable that the ancient name of the city among the natives very nearly resembled the one which it bears at this day, (though, perhaps, Camden goes too far when he charges Ptolemy with having put Diva and Devana for Dena and Denana.)| Mr Kennedy observes, that in old records the name is variously spelt-— Aberdaen, Aberdon, Abirden, Aberdene, and Abyrdene; — * Ptolenuu* Geog. Uni?en. 1. ii. c. 3. f History, VoL i. p. 18. X ** QiUB Derana, Ptolemso, pro Denana, Urbs perantiqua, ad Denam fluviunii qui foko iUdem apud Ftolemanim Dira legitur." Camden, BritaDoia, edit. 1587, p. •55&. 4 ABERDEENSHIRE. and in Latin writings it generally occurs in the form of Abredonia ; but Buchanan, while he uses the name Abredonia as applicable both to Old and New Aberdeen, says of the latter " Hanc cite- riorem invenio vetustis monumentis Abredeam appellatam."* The noun " Abar," is stated bv Macleod and Dewar in their Gaelic Dictionary to denote " a marsh, a bog, a fen," and used as a verb " to join together," hence " a place where two or more streams meet." On a reference to the situation of the numerous places both in Scotland and Wales whose names begin with this word, it will be seen that they are all (with one or two questionable exceptions, viz. Abergeley in Flintshire, and Abernyte in Perth- shire,) situated either, \st^ at the influx of a stream into the sea; or 2d, on the confluence of two streams \ or 3ee.foot," (as Elvan-foot, Bog-foot, &c.) or " Foot-o-dee," (as Foot-ohill.) 6 ABERDEENSHIRE. small fishing village of Torrie lies directly opposite to Futtie on the south side of the Dee. On the north and west sides, the parish of St Nicholas is completely inclosed by the parish of Old Machar, nvhich contains the town of Old Aberdeen, lying about a mile north- ward from Aberdeen, the manufacturing village of Woodside, at the distance of about two miles to the north-west, and the village of Ruthrieston, about two miles distant towards the south-west In this parish are also situated the suburbs of Broadford on the north side ; Gilcomston, along the north end of the west side ; the Windmill-brae and College Street near the south end of the same side ; Holburn about a mile off towards the south-west ; and Dee village about half a-mile off on the bank of the river. Besides these, the new streets which have of late years been added to Aberdeen, and in which many of the best houses are situated, are within the limits of the parish of Old Machar, lying between Gilcomston and the river, and extending westward nearly three-quarters of a mile. Soilf Sfc. — The soil of the parish is on the east side principally sandy, derived from its vicinity to the sea, the beach being here com- posed of fine sand, with occasional beds of small stones. The upper grounds in the other parts consist generally of gravel, and the lower grounds shew in several places extensive beds of peat moss lying under and mixed with the remains of former buildings or artificial soil. There is reason to conclude that the whole of the parish rests on a bed of rock of the nature of granite, and this rock may be seen in some parts of the Broad Hill cropping out to the surface. It has been found, however, in those parts of the town and neigh- bourhood, where boring for water has been practised, that the rock lies at a depth of nearly thirty feet under the moss and gravel which form the subsoil. According to the most recent determination, that of Mr George Innes, which has been approved by the engineers employ- ed in the Government survey, the latitude of the observatory on the top of Marischal College, which stands not very far from the centre of the parish, is bT & 57.8" north, and its longitude is 2^ 5' 41.56" west from Greenwich. The climate, in consequence of its proximity to the sea, is not liable to very great or extreme variations; but from the same cause it is very unsteady. The frosts in winter are not often very severe, although occasionally the thermometer has been observer* as low as 13^, or even 10^; but this not for any long continuanci And in the summer the temperature scarcely ever rises above 70 ABERDEEN. or 75® in the shade during the day, while during the night it is very seldom above 60®. The foUowbg Table, drawn up by Mr George Innes, shows the monthly mean temperature for the last seven years — the thermo- meter being placed freely exposed to the E. N. E., and at the height of 16 feet above the surface of the ground, and the obser* vations being made daily at 8 a. m. and 9 p. m. January, February, Marcb, • April, May, June, • July, August, September, October, November, December, . 1^1 lri.1ft. ld&4. 18^. 1836. 1637. lHi». 33.57 31.14 38.32 40.25 45.91 53.08 58.03 55.13 52.09 45.53 38.92 39.06 40.22 40-68 4189 46.00 49.06 56.17 56.98 57.82 54.64 49.22 42.27 39.10 33 95 37.71 39.81 45.22 55.70 56.21 58.93 55.07 53.78 49 23 41.81 38.24 40.25 40.15 42.10 45.76 54.15 58.56 60.92 59.74 54.41 48..54 43.46 42.12 35.63 39.06 39.91 45.40 49.88 55.69 58.74 58.75 54.14 45 47 43.23 37.58 37.30 35.73 39.88 43.39 52 36 56.79 57.48 55 38 50 81 46.62 39.72 38.17 36.67 38.71 34.74 39.66 46.20 54.61 57.71 55.43 50.96 49 33 39.10 41.04 45.35 Annual Mean, 47.83 47.14 49.18 46.96 46.14 44.25 The fluctuations of the barometer are not in general either very great or very sudden. It scarcely ever rises above 30.5 inches, or sinks below 28. The effect of the east wind in raising it, or in preventing its fall on the approach of rain, is very frequently to be observed. In the following table Mr Innes has collected the monthly mean for the last seven years — the barometer being placed at the height of 45 feet above half flood, and observed night and morning. January, February, March, April, May, June, July. August, September, October, November, December, 18^ 29.947 30037 29.777 30.125 30.032 29.946 30.118 29.907 30.050 29.948 29.819 29.817 1833. 30.2718 29.4093 30.0219 29 7362 30.1055 29.7797 30.0239 29 9435 29 9347 29.7685 29.6882 29.3920 1834. 29.51781 39.9151 30.0269 30.2542 29.9936 29.9115 30.0759 29.8698 30.0703 29.8424 29 8788 30 1790 Annual Mean. 29.960 29.8396 29 9613129.87471 29.7577 29.8826 29.8464 1835. 29.9201 29.4812 29.8428 300831 29.8464 30.0773 29.9742 30.0254 29.6208 29.6a*W 29 8545 30.0871 1836. I 1837. 29.6827 29.73011 •29.3042 29.7827, 30.3706 29.7978 29.8463 29.9745 29.8523 29.6871 29.4334 29.6304 1838. 29.8935 29.6904 29.9445 29.8443 29.95a3 3().(X>24 29.9692 .30.0012 29.9167 29.8833 29-6360 29,8514 30.0268 29.7628 29.7619 29.7619 30.0139 29.8569 29.9038 29.7781 29.9901 29.8307 29 5667 29.9306 No series of observations with the hygrometer has been record- ed, nor indeed are such very satisfactory when they are made. The principles of the various instruments of this kind that are in use are liable to several fallacies which it is not easy to remove, and nearly impossible to make due allowance for. Some of them 8 ABERDEENSHIRE. indicate only the moisture that is diffused in the air; thus almost necessarily assuming that the air in which they indicate the pre- sence of moisture, already holds dissolved or combined with it, all the water which at the observed temperature it is capable of taking. It is obvious that there is therefore a great and a variable quantity of moisture contained in the air to which such instruments are exposed, of which they give no indication. Others are formed on the prin- ciple of estimating the quantity of water which the air, under given circumstances, is capable of dissolving, in addition to the unas- certained quantity which it already has. A third class depend for their principle on the known facts, that cold air is capable of dissolving less moisture than hot air, and that the moister the air is at any given temperature, the smaller will be the reduction of temperature, required to cause it to deposit a part of that moisture, or, as it is said, to bring it to the dew point ; and the hygrometer consists of a vessel having a thermometer inclosed in it, which is to be cooled until moisture begins to be deposited on its surface, when the indications of the inclosed thermometer will show at what tem- perature the air subjected to observation would become incapable of retaining all its moisture. And a fourth kind is founded on the principle, that evaporation is accompanied by a diminution of tem- perature in proportion to its rapidity ; the instrument, therefore, consists of two thermometers, one of which has its bulb covered with moistened muslin, and its indications are obtained by noting the difference between the two thermometers. This last kind of hy- grometer seems to give a more philosophically accurate result than the others ; but there are circumstances which none of them take account of, and which it is perhaps impossible to devise an instru- ment to show satisfactorily. The sensible effects of the moisture contained in the air often depend not so much on its absolute quantity, (or on its quantity as considered in relation to the tem- perature prevailing at the time,) as on some differences whose causes are by no means well understood, by which the air is ren- dered more or less disposed to part with the moisture which it holds, or to dissolve an additional quantity ; and these, though not altogether unconnected with its temperature, are yet by no means solely dependent on it. The indications of the state of the atmo- sphere in regard to moisture and dryness, which are furnished by the flight of insects and birds, and by the feelings of persons of infirm health, are often more delicate, and not unfrequently more accurate, than those given by any hygrometer. That changes in the state of the air in regard to elasticity have a principal share ABERDEEN. 9 in producing those indications must be admitted ; but such changes, at the same time, produce a change in the relations of the air to moisture, which often the most sensible hygrometer will fail to indicate, but which the lapse of a few hours proves to be not the less real on that account. The sensible proof that the air is saturated with moisture seems to be obtained by the falling of rain ; but even here it is not suf- ficient to find that rain has fallen in order to justify the conclu- sion, that the air was overloaded with moisture, or to find that no rain has fallen, in order to warrant the inference that the quanti- ty of moisture contained in the air was less than it was capable of dissolving. Sudden changes in this respect often take place, which are not by any means always proportioned to the changes of tem- perature, and sometimes are even altogether unconnected with them, and which it is extremely difiicult to take any accurate ac- count of. It is true that rain often falls from a considerable height in the atmosphere, and we are therefore unable to judge accurate- ly of the circumstances of that stratum of air from which it is pre- cipitated ; but this is not always the case, and rain is sometimes produced as it were before our eyes, while the previous indication of the thermometer and of the hygrometer gave little information regarding it. The rain-guage may thus occasionally become a use« ful addition to both of these ; though it is obviously not capable of al- ways indicating the actual quantity of moisture separated from the air in any given situation ; l^^, because it will catch a consi- derable portion, (and indeed the greater part of what it does catch, is probably to be considered as derived from this source,) of what is separated from strata of air at a considerable but very variable height above the place of observation ; 2rf, because the circum- stances of the various strata of air through which the rain falls before reaching the guage, are liable to such endless variety, that the quantity of water collected by the guage may be either very considerably greater, or very much less than the actual quantity precipitated in the form of rain ; and 3^^, because when rain is produced from that stratum of the air in which the rain-guage is placed, much of the amount of its indications will depend on the situation which the guage occupies, as that which in the upper parts of the stratum is but a drizzle or small rain, may sometimes be found to be a very heavy shower, if observed in a situation only a small number of feet lower. An observation of this kind was made on one occasion by the late Dr Copland, Professor of Natural Philosophy in Marischal College, who foucid vW v^vw 10 ABEUDEENSHIRE. small and by no means thick on the top of the Observatory, while in the court below it was heavy and in large drops. The follow- ing table, therefore, showing the rain collected by the rain-guage on the top of the observatory, at the height of 74 feet from the surface of the ground, cannot be looked on as perfectly satisfac- tory. Yet perhaps the objections to which it is liable, are (though of a different kind) not on the whole stronger than those that might be urged against the indications of any similar instrument however placed. Mr Innes, with the view of removing these ob- jections in as far as they are capable of being removed, has taken measures for observing the fall of rain in future at two additional stations in the vicinity of Aberdeen ; the one in a garden about half a mile westward firomthe boundary of the parish, where the guage is placed seven feet above the surface of the ground, and the other at the light-house on the Girdleness, about a mile south-east from the extremity of the parish, where it is placed at the height of three feet above the ground. Fall of rain observed by the guage. January, 183-2. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836 1837 1838. 1.35 0.24 2.18 0.34 0.85 1.20 3.91 February, 0.24 2.77 0.93 0.82 0.96 1.34 3.06 March, - 1.38 1.65 0.43 1.13 a35 1.02 3.57 April, - 386 2.12 0.47 0.55 0.94 1.85 2.07 May, - 1.51 0.18 0.78 0.92 a32 0.95 2.57 June, 1.45 3.45 0.82 0.78 1.24 1.75 2.51 July, - 1.00 1.12 0.64 1.38 3.46 3.31 1.96 August, 1.90 0.76 1.08 0.65 1.54 3 81 2.79 September, 1.27 3.63 1.U3 2.73 246 2.23 3.41 October, 2.U7 1.34 1.45 2.06 2-48 0.66 1.64 November, 2.79 3.04 1.65 2.65 5.23 0.38 3.13 December, Total, 2.25 1.54 0.82 0.93 14 94 1.86 1.79 1.79 21.07 2204 12.28 24.69 20.29 .M2.41 The prevailing winds are during the winter, north and east, and during the summer, westerly ; but there is so little of steadiness in this respect, (excepting that there is a month or so during spring when an easterly wind prevails very generally,) that it is difficult to speak with any degree of precision about it. The following table shows the direction of the wind during the last three years, no re- gister previous to that time having been met with. 1836. 1837. 1838. North, 19 38 28 South, 37 42 44 East, 19 10 26 West, 59 28 28 North to east, - 25 24 30 South to east, 45 32 61 North to west 64 65 59 ABERDEEN. H 1836. 1837. 1838. South to west, - . 64 73 74 Two or more points^ - 16 > e.. on Variable, - - 18) GeDerally speaking, the wind does not blow with any great violence, and it cannot be said that there is any particular quarter from which a violent wind may be expected to come, rather than any other ; though, perhaps, on the whole, the north wind may be said here to be oftener a violent wind than that which blows in other directions. The average rise of the tide at the mouth of the Dee is 13^ feet at spring tides, and S feet at neap tides, and the former takes place when the moon is about thirty-six hours past the full and change, — the latter about thirty-six hours after the first and last quarters. The magnetic variation is at present 26** 43' westward. It was a few years ago somewhat greater, having been stated by Mr In- nes at 26<' 45' during the years 1 830-3 1-32--33, and 34. The aurora borealis is sometimes seen here in great splendour, exhibiting a corona of every conceivable colour, and of very great brilliancy from its rapid and constant changes. The hissing or crackling noise which so many have heard accompanying this me- teor, while many others have denied that any such sound has ever been heard^ (apparently for no better reason than because they have not themselves heard it, and cannot account for it,) has been occasionally observed by several persons in Aberdeen and the neighbourhood, among whom the late Mr John Ramage may be mentioned, as well as the writer of this Account, who also had an opportunity once of confirming the observations made by Captain Back during his sojourn in the Polar regions, that the cause of this meteor, whatever it may be, is not always at so great a distance from the surface of the earth as is commonly supposed, for he saw the beam of light distinctly pass between his eye and a small cloud, while it passed behind another small cloud, which evidently hung lower in the atmosphere. The splendid phenomenon of a lumi- nous arch, about P 30' broad, stretching across the heavens nearly in the direction of the magnetic equator, and slowly moving to- wards the south till it becomes more undefined, and at last breaks up when it has passed a little beyond the zenith, has been of late years several times observed here. Nothing can be founded on the frequency or unfirequency of a phenomenon so irregular and so little understood as the aurora borealis ; but it may be mentioned by the way, that after having been for several ^«six% ^«^^ ^^j^^^ observed, it has of late become m>\<3ti mot^ \x^'Q5iKe^-^ "^^^ ^is^^^'^ sg:^. 12 ADERDEENSHIRE. last winter scarcely a night passed in which it was not seen in a greater or less degree. Thunder storms are by no means very common in this parish, and when they do occur they are scarcely ever very violent, and it is not above once in two or three years that any injury is done by lightning to either buildings or lives in Aberdeen or the vicinity. Springs^ Wells, 8fc, — There are few springs of any consequence in the parish, and although a supply of water can be got in most places by digging from ten to thirty feet, it is generally rather hard, and therefore comparatively of little value. Close by the boundary of the parish, on the west side, are two springs closely contiguous, which have been long known under the name of the Well of Spa. Both of these springs, but especially the least co- pious one, are impregnated with carbonate of iron, and they have been noted as medicinal on account of this quality. In 1615, an account of the properties and powers of these springs was published by Dr William Barclay, under the title of " Callirrhoe, commonly called the Well of Spa, or the Nymph of Aberdene." A building which at that time protected the spring having fallen into decay, was repaired by the celebrated painter, George Jamieson, but was not long after demolished by a flood of the Den burn, which runs close beside. In 1670, another building was erected over the spring, which still remains, consisting of a stone enclosure with steps or benches, and an entablature bearing these inscriptions : — ** As heaven gives me, so give I thee." *^ Hoc fonte derivata salus in Patriam populumquc fluat.** « Spada Rediviva, 1670.** These springs have disappeared and been recovered several times within the last two centuries, but until of late their chaly- beate virtues seem to have been always retained. Within these few years, however, in digging on the adjacent eminence for the foundations of the west wing of the New Inflrmary, it would seem as if the course of the water had been disturbed, or some other change produced, the consequence of which is that now the larger spring scarcely appears to possess any chalybeate impregnation, and the smaller one is much weaker than it formerly was. It is generally concluded among geologists, that where granite rock forms the bed of a district, the attempt to obtain water by sinking Artesian wells would be vain ; and Messrs Richards and Co., when they wished to obtain a supply of water for their manu- factory in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen, were dissuaded from incurring the expense of boring, as not likely to be attended with success. Messrs Hadden and Sons, however, about three years ABERDEEN. 13 ago, made the experiment at their manufactory, in the lower part of the town, and with the result of obtaining an abundant supply of water. In sinking this well, they cut through about thirty feet of mossy soil and gravel before coming to the rock, into which they made a bore of eight inches diameter, which was successively con- tracted to six inches, and at the bottom to four inches. The depth ,to which this bore was carried through the rock was 150 feet, and in the course of the operation they found the matter cut through mostly granite, though of different degrees of hardness at different depths. The water thus obtained, which probably comes from seve- ral fissures in the rock, rose to within about eight feet of the surface, but on putting in a pump the supply was found tg be copious and capable of increase. On first using the pump a good deal of air rose along with the water, but in about a month this ceased, and it was then found that, by increasing the power of the pump, a larger supply of water (accompanied, however, by a renewal of the escape of air) might be obtained. The supply thus acquired is now equal to nearly 180 gallons per minute, but the quality of the water is hardish, so that it cannot be used except for condensing. They have more recently sunk another well about 1 00 feet dis- tant from the first, and this they carried to the depth of 220 feet, the bore, throughout being eight inches wide. Here they found the water rose only to within about fifteen feet of the surface, and on applying a pump the supply was by no means so great as from the first, not exceeding fifty gallons per minute, of the same qua- lity as the other, and apparently derived from the same fissures, — for the yielding of the first well is so much diminished by the working of the second, that both together scarcely give more water than the first did alone, before the second was made. Messrs Richards and Co., on hearing of the success which had attended the attempts of Messrs Hadden, began to bore, and after cutting through 18 feet of moss and black earth, 14 feet of gravel and small stones, 4 or 5 feet of reddish clay, and, below that, about 6 feet of loose sand and clay, they reached the rock, through which a bore of 8 inches diameter was driven to the depth of 132 feet, making 175 feet in all from the surface. The rock was of varia- ble hardness, but mostly granitic. At the depth of 1 1 5 feet, a layer of sand was met with, accompanied by much water, and there is reason to believe, that the principal supply of water which was obtained came from this bed of sand. Below this the rock was very hard. * The boring was continued for 60 feet further, but 14 ABEBDEENSHIRE. without any change in the nature of the rock, or any notable ad- dition to the quantity of water. The spring rose to the surface of the earth, and flowed over in small quantity, but on putting in a pump, the supply was found to be equal to about 45 gallons per minute, and of excellent quality, being, though not absolutely soft> yet not by any means materially hard. The only other attempt of this kind which has been made is by Messrs Fisher and Son at the Devanha Brewery, about ^ mile south-west from the boundary of the parish, where a bore of six inches wide at the top, but diminished to three inches at bottom^ was driven to the depth of 140 feet* Nearly the whole of this was through a red granite rock of variable hardness, and the supply of water, which was obtained after boring about 35 feet, not having been materially increased, the attempt was then given up. The water rose to within two feet of the surface, and the quantity ob- tained by applying a pump amounted to about 12 gallons per mi- nute ; but it was so strongly impregnated with carbonate of iron as to be altogether useless for the purposes of the brewery. Zoology. — It cannot be expected that the natural history of a parish which is nearly altogether occupied by a large city should present many objects of rarity or interest. In regard to quadru- peds, the only circumstance that occurs as being worthy of notice, is, that the black rat, which formerly used to abound over all Scot- land, has for many years been altogether expelled from this pa- rish by the large brown rat, which is commonly said to have been imported from Norway. The swallow and martin commonly make their appearance here about the end of April, and depart a little before the autumnal equinox. The beautiful bird, the Bohemian jay, is sometimes seen here, but seldom. The other birds found are those which occur in other similarly situated parts of the north of Scotland. The sea in the neighbourhood yields considerable va- riety of fish, of which those principally caught are the haddock, whiting, cod, skate, and flounders of various kinds, as plaice, &c. Ling, halibut, soles, and mackerel are occasionally caught, and there is no reason to doubt that an abundant supply of some of the finer kinds of fish, as turbot, might be obtained, if the fishermen were in the habit of using decked boats, in which they could ven- ture to go 15 or 20 miles out to sea. An attempt was made some years ago by some fishers from Hartlepool to introduce the tur- bot fishery here, but they did not meet with the encouragement which they had hoped for. Herrings are occasionally caught in ABERDEEN. 15 abundance along this coast, but it was not until about two years ago, that, by the exertions of the late Provost Blaikie, a vigorous attempt was made to establish a herring-fishery at Aberdeen. There are at present about thirty boats employed in this way, and the success which they have had has been highly encouraging, so that it may be hoped that this department of the fishery is likely to be prosecuted henceforth with advantage. The saliron-fishery is carried on to a very considerable extent both in the sea and in the river Dee, and the rents accruing to the magistrates of Aber- deen, and to various private individuals from this source, are to a considerable amount. A statement of the actual quantity of sal- mon caught in the Dee and on the beach adjacent cannot be given, because these fishings, being in the hands of persons possessing si- milar fishings in other situations, it has not been deemed of im- portance to distinguish the fish of each particular river or station. Occasionally considerable quantities of shrimps are caught in pools left by the tide on the sands ; and the fishermen who reside in Futtie use as bait great quantities of sand-eels, which they collect by turning over the sand after the tide has receded. In consequence of the sandy nature of the beach, it affords no resting place or shelter for shellfish ; and the shells which are found on the beach are, therefore, brought by the sea from other situations, and generally the fish have decayed before the shells are washed ashore. Sometimes after a storm, a few Echini and Medusse are found on the beach, but this is by no means frequent. The same observation applies to several kinds of small Corallines, and to various kinds of marine plants, none of which are properly speaking the produce of this coast, nor ever found on it in suffi- cient quantity to be of any importance either as manure, or for the purpose of preparing kelp. Botany. — The botany of such a parish is equally devoid of in- terest or variety as its zoology. The plants and trees which thrive well are necessarily of the more hardy kinds, and there is none of which it can well be said, that either the climate or the soil are so peculiarly suited to them, as to render them specially the pro- duce of this parish. Forest trees of the various ordinary kinds, as fir, larch, spruce, ash, elm, beech, birch, plane, mountain-ash, service, &c. &c., are reared to a considerable extent in the nursery grounds in and adjacent to the parish. The oak seems scarcely to 'thrive now in this part of the country, although in executing the improvements which have lately been carried on in the bar- 16 ABERDEENSHIRE. hour of Aberdeen, the trunks of a good many oaks of large size have been dug up, in such situations as to lead to the conclusion that they had not been brought down by the river, but had grown where they were found. One of these, which, when entire and covered with its bark, must have exceeded 15 feet in circumference, is set upon the Inch or flat ground between the basin of the har- bour and the bed of the river Dee. No great variety of plants can be said to belong to this parish, but by the industry of the inhabitants, to which the establishment of a Horticultural Society about ten years ago, has not a little con- tributed, a great many of the natives of other districts, and not a few exotics, both esculent and ornamental, have been success- fully cultivated, and may be said to be almost or altogether natu- ralized here now. The mineral productions of the parish are not less limited than those of the other departments of natural history. The east parts of the parish lie altogether on a bed of sea-sand ; and the low grounds on the north and east sides, as well as on the bank of the Dee along nearly half of the south side, generally speaking, shew extensive beds of peat moss lying under the vegetable mould. The higher grounds are nearly composed of beds of gravel and small rounded stones* Climate and Salubrity. — Notwithstanding the variableness of the climate, the salubrity of Aberdeen is not inferior to that of other places in the neighbourhood, which are more favourably si- tuated in this respect Catarrhs, pulmonary complaints, and rheumatism, may be said to be the only diseases that can in any degree be deemed consequences of the exposed situation of the town on the east coast of the island. As in every other large town, there is a considerable number of cases of fever and other contagious complaints, which may be regarded as consequent ra- ther on the crowding together of a great number of individuals, and on the unfavourable circumstances in which they live, than on the climate or situation of the district. The tables drawn up at the infirmary and dispensaries give information to a certain extent, regarding the diseases prevalent in a portion of the community; and if there were accurate bills of mortality kept, they would supply a good deal of additional information, though it would not be quite complete or accurate, as many who have lived beyond the bounds of the parish are buried within it, and vice versa. In the absence of this information, little more can be said than that 4 ABERDEEN. 17 instances of longevity, protracted sometimes to nearly a century, are by no means ~of more unfrequent occurrence in Aberdeen, than in most of the other towns in Scotland. II. — Civil History. It would be useless to attempt to trace the origin of the town of Aberdeen, as, in the total absence of records, nothing but con- jecture could be offered. It seems likely, that, whether the pre- sent town can be identified with the ancient Devana or not, there ivould be at a very early period a village or fishing-station near the mouth of the Dee, and this may be supposed to have stood where the most ancient traces of inhabitation in Aberdeen have been found, viz. along the south and west sides of St Catherine's Hill, where the Ship-row and Putachyside now are. Hector Boece says that it was erected into a city by Gregory about the year 893,* but of this no record has been preserved. The earliest document extant relatincf to the town is a charter bv William, granted at Perth, the date of which is with probability supposed to be 1179, and from this time the rise of Aberdeen as a place of note may be dated. It had its share in the troubles and misfortunes of the succeed- ing reigns, and in 1272, according to Boece, it was reduced to ashes by the fires caused by a tempest which devastated a great part of Scotland, and which is mentioned also by Fordun, though he does not speak of the destruction of Aberdeen by it.-f" In 1298, the town was garrisoned by the English; but about ten years after, the citizens took possession of the castle, and mas- sacred the garrison ; having taken part with Bruce, who, in testi- mony of their patriotic exertions, granted them permission to bear as the arms of the town, " gules, three towers triple towered, within a double tressure counterflowered argent, supported by two leo- pards proper, the motto in a scroll above * bon accord,' '* (that having been the watchword on the night when they rose against the English) ; and soon after he confirmed and extended the pri- vileges formerly possessed by the citizens. In 1336, when Ed- ward III. had ravaged a great part ofthe north country, he de- solated Mar on his way south, and burned Aberdeen, killing a great number of the citizens, J in revenge, apparently, for the • «* Aberdoniam ex pogo urbem fecit," Hist. Scot. 1. x. fol. 220, edit. 1526. t Hist. Scot. 1. xiii. fol. 802. — Scotichron, 1. x. c. 90. f It would be out of place here to enter into any lengthened defence of the liisto- rian Boece ; but it seems necessary to notice, that sonaetimes mistakes are imputed ABERDEEN. B 18 ABERDEENSHIRE. dealh of Sir Thomas Roslyne, who had fallen in an attack on the town the year before. * The town was within a few years rebuilt, and seems at this time to have received the designation of New Aberdeen ; — not in contradistinction to the Kirktown of Seaton, which is now called Old Aberdeen, but simply because it was then a newly built town. It seems certain that Aberdeen was a town of some note long before Old Aberdeen was any thing more than a hamlet with a church. Subsequent to this time Aberdeen was repeatedly honoured by the visits or the prolonged residence of the Scottish King, and a mint was established in the town, from which coinages were issued both by David and Robert III. The records of the town council now extant commence in the year 1398, but nothing requiring notice in this summary occurs for a good many years. During the captivity of James I. and the minority of James II., the troubled state of the country obliged ' the inhabitants of each town to provide for their own security, and the citizens of Aberdeen were ordered to arm, the town was pro- tected with walls, the gates being carefully shut at night, and an armed patrole of thirty citizens was daily selected as a guard against surprise. In 1411, Donald, Lord of the Isles, made an inroad on the country to the west of Aberdeen, and advanced with the purpose of pillaging the town ; but the Earl of Mar having collected forces in the low country, opposed his progress, and on the 24th of July a battle was fought at Harlaw, a place about twenty miles from Aberdeen, in which both parties sustained considerable loss, and neither could claim the victory."|- Among those who fell on the side of the Earl of Mar was Sir Robert Davidson, the provost of to him without reason, as In the ])resent instance; Mr Thorn in his History of Aber- deen, says, ** Hector Boece mentions that Edward II. sent ships to Aberdeen, anno 13^)3, from which a party landj[^d and burnt the town fur six days; but this must bo a mistake :** there is, however, no mention of this expedition in Boece's history. Con- siderable confusion prevails in the statements on this subject, some alleging (apparent- ly on the authority of an incorrect expression in Froissart, 1. i. p. 1, c. 57» where he says that, in 1333, Edward entered Scotland, " quMl foula gravement toute la plaine d'Kscosse, et ardit et exillat moult de villespriv^s de fosses etdc palis ;— et coururent scs gens tout le pays jusques k Saint Jehanstone et jusques a Abredane;'*) that the town was burnt in l«%)3as well as in 1330; and that on one or the other of these oc- casions, (for il is differently stated) the fire raged for six days. There docs not seem, however, to be any good evidence fur more than one burning ; and it is by no means likely that the town was then of such extent as to require six days for its consump- tion, though possibly tlic work of destruction by Edward^s soldiers may have been carried on for that length of time. Vide 13oet. Hist. Scot 1. xv. fol, 332. Fordun, 1. xiii. c. 37. • Wyntown*s Chronicle, b. viii. ch. 31. I Boet. 1. xvi. fol. 334.— Majoiis Hist. L vi. c. 10.— ^Fordun, 1. xv. c. 21. ABERDEEN. 19 Aberdeen, who joined him at the head of a band of citizens. His body was brought to the town and entombed in the Church of St Nicholas, where its remains were discovered when the church be- came ruinous about the year 1740.* In consequence of the death, in this manner, of Provost Davidson, it is said that an act of the town-council was soon after passed, prohibitinor the chief magistrate from quitting the town in his official character ; but Mr Kennedy, though he mentions this, and though he refers constantly to the council records, does not quote any authority for the statement, and the writer of this has been unable to find any notice of such an act in the council register. In 1462, the magistrates entered into a bond of manrent for ten years with the Earl of Huntly ; he engaging to protect them in their freedom and property, and they promising to give him ad- vice when required, to keep his counsel, to receive him and his men into the town when he pleased, and to take part with him if he should be attacked within the burgh, saving always their alle- giance to the King.*(- In the course of the next year he called on them for assistance, but not strictly in terms of the bond, for he required them to meet him at the Cabrach, about forty miles from Aberdeen ; but they excused themselves, first because they could not obtain horses, the whole country having been summoned at the same time to repress an incursion made by John Lord of the Isles ; and secondly, because they had been ordered by the King to guard the town against the English, who were said to be on the coast. James III. having been killed in 1488, Lord Forbes and some other nobles came to Aberdeen in the course of the next year for the purpose of stirring up the people to assist in rescuing the young King from the party who had led him into rebellion ; and to aid their object they paraded the town, exhibiting the bloody and torn shirt of the late King on the point of a spear. J The appeal was not in vain, but the citizens seem to have limited the expression of their loyalty to certain resolutions which they passed on the oc- casion. In 1497, a blockhouse was built at the entrance of the harbour as a protection against the English, and in 1514, besides the gimners stationed there, two men were placed at the bell-house on the south side of the river, with orders to raise a fire as soon as the English fleet appeared in sight, while other two on the * Kennedy^s Annals, i. 51. ir A copy of this bond is given in Kennedy's Annals, i. 55. t Buchanani, Hist. Scot. 1. xiii. c. 4. 20 ABERDEENSHIRE. castle hill had orders to ring a bell whene7er they should see the fire. The expected attack, ho>^ever, was not made. James IV. paid several visits to Aberdeen, one of which, though very brief, was remarkable. It was on the dOth August 1507, when the King rode in one day from Stirling through Perth and Aberdeen to Elgin, on his way to the shrine of St Duthac in Ross-shire.* In 1 525, the town was the scene of a bloody affray, caused by Seton of Meldrum, Leslie of Wardhousc, and Leslie of Balquhain, who entered the town on the night of the 1st October with a number of armed followers, and attacked the citizens, eighty of whom were killed and wounded ; but the assailants were repulsed, and the town forthwith put into a state of defence. About the middle of the previous century a public clock had been placed in the tolbooth ; but so little progress had the mechanical arts made in Aberdeen, or indeed in Scotland, that in the beginning of this century, when it required repair, it was found necessary to send it to Flanders for that purpose. In 1514, in 1546, and again in 1647, the plague raged with considerable violence in Aberdeen, and for the safety of the other inhabitants, the sick were lodged in huts erected in the links. When the Earl of Huntly rebelled against Queen Mary, and the battle of Corrichie was fought, in 156'2, the town seems to have been equally in terror of both parties, but the occupation of the place by the Royal army immediately before the battle, and the defeat of the rebels, decided the question, and the Queen's army was joyfully received on its return with the prisoners, and the town was at that time the place of the Queen's residence for nearly three months. At the earliest period of which any record remains, the govern- ment of the town was intrusted to an alderman, (afterwards called a provost,) four bailies, and twenty councillors, who were an- nually chosen " cum consensu et assensu totius communitatis ;" but by a statute passed in 1469, the election of the magistrates was vested in the council, and that of the new council was devolv- ed on the preceding council ; and about the beginning of the six- tccMith century, a custom began, of the councillors once elected retaining their office for life, while the election of provost became little more than a form, the office being engrossed by one or two powerful families in the town or neighbourhood, in proof of which it may be mentioned, that one individual filled the civic chair for • Lcslwi de Gest. Scot. 1. viii. p. 331, ed. 1675. ABERDEEN. 21 twenty-nine successive years, fTom 1547 to 1576. Theseabuses continued till 159), when the matter having been challenged, and coming under the notice of King James, his Majesty issued one of the most singular rescripts, perhaps, that ever passed the privy seal, in which he ascribes the flourishing state of Aberdeen to the council continuingin office "unalteritorchangeit be the spaceof forty orfifty yeiris;" — says the town would become a monopoly instead of an open burgh, if they were changed annually according to act of Parlia- ment ; — and therefore directs the council then in office to continue during life, re-electing themselses annually ; " renunceand and dischafgeand all actioun and persute competent to us or our suc- cessors twitching the contraventioun of our said act of Parliament." This, however, did not give satisfaction, as indeed it could not be expected to do ; and next year the matter was referred to certain umpires, who pronounced a decree-arbitral naming the magistrates and council for that year, and " enjoining the acts of Parliament concerning the election of magistrates, council, and office-men within boroughs, to be precisely observed in all time coming." In 1594, three Popish priests having been apprehended by the magistrates, as abettors of the Popish Lords Huntly, Errol, and Angus, who were then in a state of rebellion, these barons forci- bly rescued the prisoners, and denounced 6re and sword against the town; a threat which would probably have been executed, had they not been soon after subdued, or rather starved into subjection. James VI. paid several visits to Aberdeen, viz. in 1582, 1589, 1592, 1594, and 1600, and, generally speaking, these royal visits were expensive affairs to the citizens, both in entertainments, and in pre- sents of money given to his Maje^fy, according to the custom of the time. About this time, the crime of witchcraft was supposed Jto be prevalent in Aberdeen as well as in other parts of the kingdom, and many poor old women were sacrificed to appease the terrors which the belief in it was calculated to excite. Few of the individuals who were suspected were allowed to escape from the hands of their persecutors ; several died in prison in consequence of the tortures inflicted on them, and, during the years 1596-97, no fewer than 22 were burnt at the Castlehill. In 1639, the town having, at the instigation of the Marquis of Huntly, taken part with the King, Montrose and General Leslie came north, and after harassing the citizens for a time/ and re- ducing Huntly to the necessity of dispersing his troops, returned 22 ABERDEENSHIRE. southward. Soon after the Viscount of Aboyne resolved, to pub- lish at Stonehaven a proclamation, issued by the King, against the Covenanters, but he was repulsed, and pursued by the Earl Marischal, who, coming to the bridge of Dee, found it fortified, but defended by a small number of men only. These he over- powered, and, coming to Aberdeen, entered it without resistance.* In 1645, the town having mostly acceded to the covenant, Mon- trose, who had embraced the royal cause, having crossed the Dee about ten miles up, marched down to within two miles of Aber- deen, and sent a drummer with a summons to surrender. This was refused, and the messenger dismissed ; but as he was return- ing, he was killed either accidentally or by design, on which Mon- trose advanced, and being met by Burleigh's troops and the citi- zens at the Crabestone, about half a mile from the town, a bloody conflict ensued, in which Montrose overcame, and, pursuing his victory, he took possession of the town, which he gave up to pil- lage, putting many of the inhabitants to the sword. The reigns of Charles II. and James were noted for the cruel per- secution of the Presbyterians, and for great distress among the people generally, from which Aberdeen was not exempt. Among the arbitrary acts of the latter, may be noticed his having on seve- ral occasions controlled the election of magistrates, which was not restored to its former freedom till 1689, Some time previous to this (probably at the time when the dis- turbed state of the country rendered it unsafe to dwell without the walls) a double row of houses was erected, apparently at first of wood, in the middle of the Broadgate, by which that street was reduced in breadth from about thirty-five paces to its present breadth of about fifteen or eighteen paces, and the west side of it, known by the name of the Guestrow, or as it is called in some old writings, the " vicus lemurum,"f thus became a separate street. And, about the beginning of the eighteenth century, the magis- trates, anxious to deprive marauders of the shelter aflbrded them by the forest of the Stocket, gave permission to such of the citi- zens as chose to take wood from it for that purpose, to add bal- conies to the front of their houses, projecting eight or ten feet in- to the street, viz. to the extent occupied by the outer stairs — and thus the streets were considerably narrowed, and the town ren- dered less healthy. One or two of the houses thus altered still re- * Spalding's History of the Troubles in Scotland, 4to edition, VoL i. p. 15dL t Book of Bon Accord, i. p. 117. 3 ABERDEEN. 23 main, having a wooden front, behind which, at the distance of about ten feet, is the original stone wall of the house. In 1715, the Chevalier de St George was proclaimed at Aber- deen by the Earl Marischal, and soon after the Earl of Mar sent to demand a contribution of L. 2000 from the town, for the sup- port of the Pretender's army, but of this only about one-half was paid. In December of the same year, the Pretender having landed at Peterhead, passed through Aberdeen on his way to Fetteresso, where he was met by several of the nobles attached to his cause. Although the magistrates at this time were on his side, the town's people generally seem to have been afraid to commit themselves, and he received no effectual aid from Aberdeen. About 1740, some individuals in Aberdeen engaged in the nefa- rious trade of kidnapping such young men as they could entice or compel, to go to the plantations in Virginia, and though many were thus decoyed or forced away from their friends, it continued for a good many years little regarded, and a house in the Green is spoken of as having been used for confining those who were refractory until they could be shipped off. Several of the principal citizens appear to have been concerned in this villany, and it was not until one of their victims, Peter Williamson, unexpectedly re-appeared in Aberdeen in 1758, (for the measures taken to prevent their re- turn, or communicating with their friends, were in general success- ful,) that any check was given to it. He had written a pamphlet, giving an account of the manner in which he had been kidnapped, and of the hardships he had sustained, and this he sold in Aber- deen on his return. For this libel he was summoned before the bailies, and was fined 10s., ordered to beg pardon of the magis- trates, and thereafter to be banished from the town, and the ob- noxious parts of his book were torn out and burnt at the cross by the hangman. Williamson afterwards went to Edinburgh, where, meeting with some benevolent persons to espouse his cause, he raised an action against the magistrates, which was terminated by these worthies being sentenced to pay him L. 100, with all the ex- penses of the suit. In 1745, Prince Charles having landed in the West Highlands, Sir John Cope marched with the royal army to Inverness to oppose him, but he having gone southward. Sir John returned and came to Aberdeen in September, from whence he took shipping ; and in November Lord Lewis Gordon, the Prince's Lord Lieutenant for Aberdeen and Banff, came to Aberdeen, and took possession of the 24 ABERDEENSHIRE. town. Soon after, the Laird of Macleod was sent by the Earl of Loudon with about 200 men to drive the rebels from the town, but he was defeated in a skirmish near Inverury, and the town con- tinued to be occupied by the rebels until February 1746, when it was evacuated on the approach of the royal army under the Duke of Cumberland. His Royal Highness reached Aberdeen on the 27th February, and remained in the town till the 8th April.* A part of the royal army returned to Aberdeen after the battle of Culloden ; and the citizens not being so alert in illuminating their bouses as some of the officers thought they should have been, they ordered the soldiers to break the windows, which was accordingly done ; but the magistrates resented this aggression, and imprison- ed one or two of the officers. Ultimately the matter was accom- modated by the officers paying about L. 60 for the damage done. In 1 767, the harvest being unfavourable, and the price of meal consequently high, the populace broke open and robbed one of the meal cellars in town, and threatened to hang its owner, under the impression that he had wilfully raised the price beyond what was ne- cessary. In order to quell this riot, the magistrates were obliged to call in the aid of the military, and it was not till one of the rioters was killed and several wounded, that the mob was dispersed. In 1782, the alarming deficiency of the crop led the citizens to adopt precautions to avert the threatened famine, and accordingly a subscription was opened, and a committee appointed to purchase corn to be distributed to the inhabitants. By their accounts it ap- pears that, up to the end of July 1783, they had imported 2205 sacks of various kinds of meal, 1 9 quarters of barley, and 9082 bolls of grain. Attempts were made in 1786 to redress certain abuses connect- ed with the administration of the funds of the Scottish burghs, and in these attempts several of the citizens of Aberdeen took a princi- pal share ; but the bill which was introduced into Parliament for this purpose was thrown out in 1789, These attempts were re- newed in 1792, and a select committee of the House of Commons was appointed to report on the matter. This report was present- ed in June 1793; but the odium which was cast upon reform by the democratic principles of the " Corresponding Society" and the " Scottish Convention," induced the prudent abettors of burgh re- form to discontinue their exertions. The harvest of 1799 was extremely unfavourable, and the utmost • The Duke during his stay in Aberdeen resided in the house which is now awd as the House of Kefugc. ABERDEEN. 25 exertions of the magistrates were required in order to prevent fa- mine. But though the prices were very high,* and much distress was suffered in consequence, no serious disturbance took place. In 1802, the celebration of the anniversary of the King's birth- day terminated in a melancholy and fatal manner, in consequence of some of the officers of the Ross and Cromarty Rangers, at that time quartered in the barracks, having become intoxicated while drinking the King's health in the town-house. On their appearing in this state in the street, they were pelted by some idle boys, on which they immediately ordered out the regiment, and fired on the crowd assembled in the Castle Street, four of whom were killed and a good many wounded. It was found necessary, in order to avert further evil, to remove the regiment from the town next morning. The officers and some of the soldiers who were most immediately implicated were apprehended, and soon after ordered to be sent to Edinburgh for trial, but about two months after, the Lord Advocate declined to prosecute any of them. The citizens, much dissatisfied at this, raised a subscription for the purpose of prosecuting them at the instance of those whose relatives had been killed, and three officers and two sergeants were brought to trial, but after a trial of two days, two of the officers were found not guilty, and the verdict was not proven as regarded the two sergeants ; the other officer did not stand his trial, and was outlawed. One of the most melancholy shipwrecks that have ever occurred on this coast took place on the 1st April J 818. The Oscar whale ship left the port that morning along with four others, the weather being fine ; but appearances of a gale coming on, the Oscar and another weighed anchor, in order to stand out to sea. The Oscar was detained by one of her boats having been sent for some of the crew who had not come on board, and the gale coming on from the north-east, she was driven ashore about 11a. m., in the Greyhope, immediately behind the breakwater at the south side of the har- bour, where she quickly went to pieces, and out of a crew of forty- four, only the first mate and one seaman were saved. The same place proved fatal in 1815 to the Caledonia and the Thames, which were both wrecked in one day, and the crews of both perished. In 1817, it was found that the expenses into which the magis- trates had been led in the execution of various improvements in the town, the harbour, and the roads leading to the city, had so drained the treasury, that it became necessary to declare the town insol- vent The amount of debt for which the security of the town was • The price per boll was, for oatmeal, L. 2, 5s. ; bear, li»% \&. \ ^^\».\ft^^nV.a.;^s», 26 ABEKDEENSHIKE. pledged was L. 225,710, to meet the interest on which an income appeared of L. 10,042, while the value of the property belonging to the town was L. 139,440, exclusive of the value of feus in the new streets, estimated at L. 106,851 ; so that time only appeared to be required to enable the treasury to overcome its difficulties. A committee of trustees was appointed, and, by careful management, his object was attained in a few years ; and the last yearly accounts just published show a revenue of L, 20,452, with an expenditure of L. 17,084. About the same time attempts were made to open , the set of the burgh, and the subsequent election of magistrates having been informal in some respects was set aside, and certain individuals were named by the Court of Session to act until the next day of election. Since that time the Burgh Reform Act has been passed, and the election of the council is now placed pretty much on the same footing as it originally was, — the magistrates be- ing chosen by the council thus elected out of their own number. Eminent Men, — It would not be easy, and perhaps it is not ne- cessary, to draw the line very nicely between those men of talents and celebrity who have lived in Aberdeen, and those who have been principally connected with Old Aberdeen. The notice here given can only embrace a few of the principal, and must necessarily be very brief. * John Barbour was born in 1330, and is said to have been the son of a citizen who lived in the Castlegate. He is known by his office of Archdeacon of Aberdeen, and as the author of the me- trical history of Robert Bruce, which, as Mr Kennedy naively remarks, " has not yet lost its reputation," adding, " the style of his composition is regarded by the learned of both kingdoms as an ornament to our language, and not inferior to that of his con- temporary Chaucer." David Anderson of Finzeauch, commonly known by the appel- lative of " Davie do a'-thing," was noted for his mechanical genius, and in the year 1618 promoted the improvement of the Iiarbour, by removing a large rock which lay in the middle of the channel at its entrance. George Jamieson, the son of Andrew Jamieson, a burgess of Aberdeen, who was born about 1586, is deservedly celebrated as a painter of portraits, and his pictures are remarkable for their soil- ness and the clearness of the colouring. Lists of them are given in Mr Thom's history of Aberdeen, and in the Statistical Account in 1797. It may not be out of place to notice, that there are still preserved, at the back of the magistrates' gallery in the West ABERDEEN. 27 Church, two pieces of tapestry worked by Mr Jatnieson's daughter, Mary, representing Jephthah's Vow, and Susannah and the Elders. James Gregory, the inventor of the reflecting telescope, was born in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen in 1638, and educated at Marischal College. He was afterwards Professor of Mathematics, first at St Andrews and then at Edinburgh. Edward Raban is worthy of note, as having been the first printer established at Aberdeen, where he settled in 1621. Mr Alexander JaffVay, the son of a citizen of Aberdeen, oc- cupied the civic chair in the years 1641 and 1649,* and was highly beneficial to the community, by the judgment and mo- deration which he exhibited in the direction of the affairs of the town in very difiicult times, as well as by the zeal which he dis- played for the promotion and maintenance of the true religion, though in his latter days he shewed a considerable want of steadi- ness, and ultimately became an adherent of the Society of Friends. James Gibbs was born in Aberdeen in 1688, and studied ar- chitecture in Italy, after which he settled in London, where he acquired both reputation and fortune. It is to his taste and talent that the design of the Church of St Martin in the Fields is said to be due ; and he gave the plan also for the West Church in Aber- deen. John Gregory was born in Aberdeen in 1724, and, having studied medicine, became Professor, first in King's College and afterwards in Edinburgh, where, on his death, he was succeeded by his son, the late eminent Dr James Gregory, who also was born in Aberdeen. John Ramage, who was a currier and leather-merchant in Aber- deen, deserves notice here on account of his devotion to scien- tific pursuits, and his great practical acquaintance with the con- struction of reflecting telescopes ; one of which, made by him, is placed in the Royal Observatory, and, though considerably infe- rior in size, is said to be nearly equal in power to Herschers 40 feet reflector. Connected with Aberdeen, we must mention Dr Robert Hamil- ton, formerly Professor of Natural Philosophy, and afterwards of Mathematics, in Marischal College, the author of an Essay on the National Debt, which has often been referred to as one of the ablest and most perspicuous elucidations of the principles of the Aleiander Jaffray, who was Provost in 163G and 1G38, is generally supposed to be thf^fother of the other, who in 1636 was not more than twenty years of age. 28 ' ABERDEENSHIRE. Sinking Fund ; and Dr Patrick Copland, wha was Professor in Marischal College, at first of Mathematics and afterwards of Na- tural Philosophy, who enriched the collection of apparatus there . with a great variety of models, made under his own eye, and many of them with his own hand, so that at his death the apparatus- room of Marischal College contained a collection probably supe- rior both in extent and accuracy to any other collection in Scotland. It is not necessary to do more than mention the names of such men as Dr Thomas Blackwell, Dr George Campbell, Dr Thomas Reid, Dr James Beattie, Dr Gilbert Gerrard, and Dr William Laurence Brown, all of whom were either natives of Aberdeen, or for a considerable portion of their lives resident in it. Neither would it be seemly in closing this list to say more than that Dr John Abercrombie is a native of Aberdeen, and that Sir James Macgrigor received the first elements of his professional education as the pupil of a medical man in Aberdeen. Ecclesiastical State. — Little precise information can be given re- garding the early ecclesiastical state of Aberdeen, except that, for two or three centuries preceding the Reformation, there were in the town, houses of Dominican, Franciscan, and Carmelite Friars, and a monastery dedicated to the Holy Trinity, as well as a parish church dedicated to St Nicholas ; and that there is no reason to doubt that in Aberdeen, as in other parts of Scotland, ^^ the form of Popery which prevailed was of the most bigotted and illiberal kind, and its superstitions and absurdities had grown to an extra- vagant height." * Malcolm having gained a victory over the Danes at Mortlach, in Banffshire, in 1010, founded a bishopric there, which was trans- ferred to Aberdeen in 1139. The bishop fixed his residence at Seaton, on the right bank of the Don, about half a mile from its mouth, and, in consequence of this, the cathedral church was erected there.-(- The church of St Nicholas, as being a depen- dency of the bishopric, was served by a vicar (who was generally the sixth prebendary of the cathedral,) together with a curate, and chaplains, the number of whom was twenty-two in 1491, but in 1519 they were restricted to sixteen. The influence of Protestant truth seems to have early begun to manifest itself in Aberdeen; for, in 1521, Mr John Marshall, * Kennedy*B Annals of Aberdeen, Vol. i. p. 109. t That portion of the Cathedral Church which it still entire is used as the parish church of Old Machar at the present time. ABERDEEN. 29 master of the Grammar School, was summoned before the magis- trates for contempt of the Church of Rome. He answered bold- ly that he did not consider himself amenable to the court of Rome. But two years afterwards, he expressed his contrition, which, as Mr Kennedy observes, '' probably saved him from the dreadful punishment which generally awaited the enemies of that church." In 1525, the principles of the Reformation had made such pro- gress in Aberdeen, that the King sent orders to the Sheriff to search for and punish those who had in their possession heretical books, it being alleged that several strangers and others within the diocese of Aberdeen were busied in propagating the errors of Luther. Ultimately, however, the truth prevailed, and the following ex- tract from the council records, of date 4th October 1560, shews the zeal and cordiality with which the cause of the Reformation was at that time embraced by the magistrates : ^^ The haill coun- sell present for the tyme oblist thaim faithfullie to assist and coun- cil with the Provost and Baillies, obey and fortifie the same in ex- ecutione of all actis and statutis devysit and mayd be the counsell for the comound weill of this burgh and mantenans of Chryste^s religioune, at thair uter power ; and peyne to be imputt alsweill upoune the said counsell as upoune thesaidis Provest and Baillies for observans of the present statute, that is to say, under the paine of deprivatione of thair offices, gouns, and dignities, and tynsell of thair fredorae to be att the counsells will." The parochial charge of the town was committed to Mr Adam Heriot, who had been an Augustinian friar, but who having re- nounced the errors of Popery, had joined himself to the Congre- gation, and the time of his admission to the office seems to be near- ly fixed by the following entry in the council records of the same date with the preceding : *^ The counsell ordains the thesaurer to pay Adam Heriot, minister of the towne, thq soume of twa hun- dreth pounds, usuall money of Scotland, for his ministratione and preching for the space of ane zeir nixt and immedyately following the first day of November nixt to cum." In January 1561-2, the silver and brass work belonging to the church, which had in the meantime been entrusted to the care of a member of the council, was sold by public roup for the common good ; and the magistrates about the same time resolved to abolish the monasteries, and to raise forty men for the service of the Con- gregation. They seem, however, to have been partly induced to 30 ABERDEENSHIRE. this resolution by a visit which they had shortly before received from some of the Reformers of the south. In 15679 the Provost of Aberdeen, writing to excuse his non-at- tendance at the General Assembly called for the 26th of July, expresses the mind of the town as follows : " It shall please your wisdomes understand and most assuredly believe us, professors of the Evangell of the Kirk within the burgh of Aberdeen, to be of ane minde, and be the grace of God to continue, to the mainte- nance of the furthsetting of the glory of God, teaching of the true Evangell, and sustentation of the ministers, with help unto the poore, and unto the tyme your wisdomes with the nobilitie find ane order universall for the ministrie, we shall, for our own part, God willing, sustaine our minister, so that of reason he shall have no cause to plaint, and to the poore after our power doe semblablie as uther burroughs shall take order."* At the commencement of the Reformation in Aberdeen, a mis- sionary (of assistant to the minister) seems to have been employ- ed, as may be gathered from the following entry in the council re- cords of 11th October 1560: '^ The counsell ordanis David Mar, thesaurer, to deliver Johne Brabaner ane garmound of cleithing of Frensche or Flanders blak, that is to say, bonnet, goune, coitt, hoiss, and doublatt, for his labours, cair, and diligens taine in tymes bygaine, in preching, teching, and administratione of the sacra- mentis, without ony recompens." Mr Heriot was greatly respected for his worth and usefulness, and on his death in 1574 he was succeeded by Mr John Craig, who had been for nine years the colleague of Knox in Edinburgh, and afterwards minister at Montrose. In 1579, Episcopacy was introduced into the Church of Scot- land, and David Cunningham was installed the first Protestant bi- shop of Aberdeen. In the struggles which afterwards took place for the abolition of that form of church government, as well as in the opposition made by the country to the ecclesiastical proceed- ings, in general, of James and his descendants, the citizens of Aberdeen, influenced by their feelings of loyalty, and under the. guidance of their teachers, seem generally to have been less zeal- ous than their countrymen in other quarters. Stevenson having mentioned, (in his History of the Church and State of Scotland) the prevalent feeling in favour of the Covenant, makes the follow- ing exceptions: — " Is^, Papists; 2(1, Courtiers who had no • Bookc of ihe Universall Kirk of Scotland, p. 63. ABERDEEN. 31 will to displease the King ; and 3d, Clergy, of whom the chief were the Doctors of Aberdeen." He goes on to say that the town, be- ing much under the influence of the Marquis of Huntly and the Doctors, (viz. Dr John Forbes, Dr Robert Barron, Dr William Leslie, Dr Alexander Scrogie, Dr James Sibbald, and Dr Alex- ander Ross,) refused to subscribe the Covenant, which, with a view to their concurrence, had been sent to them in April 1638, by the hands of a commission from the Tables, consisting of the Lairds of Dun, Morphy, Balmain, and Leyes, Mr Alexander Wedder- burn. Clerk of Dundee, and Mr Robert Barclay, Provost of Ir- vine.* A short time before this, Aberdeen had been appointed as the place of residence or exile of Samuel Rutherfurd, when he was ejected from his parish of Anwoth, and Dr Barron undertook the task of conferring with him, and bringing him to alter his views on the question which then agitated the church and the nation. The result of these conferences is stated by Rutherfurd in one of his letters, in his usual homely but expressive manner, ^' Twa yokings laid him by." On the 20th of July 1638, another com- mission, consisting of the Earls of Montrose and Kinghorn, the Lord Cowper, the Master of Forbes, the Lairds of Leyes and Morphie, with Messrs Alexander Henderson, David Dickson, and Andrew Cant, ministers, came to Aberdeen, and though at first some difficulty occurred with the magistrates, and the covenanting ministers were refused access to the town's pulpits, yet about 500 subscribed after public worship in Earl Marischal's Close, of whom several were persons of the best quality in the place.-f* But though considerable progress had been made among the citizens, the doc« tors continued adverse to the Covenant, and were both active and successful in their efforts to gain others to their opinions, and to repress the zeal of their covenanting fellow-citizens ; in conse- quence of which proofs of their " good affectioune to his service," they received from Charles L various communications expressive of his ^^ hartie thanks," and assurances that ^' when anie thing that may concerne * your good shall occurr we shall not be unmyndful of the same.' " This promise the monarch performed not long after, * Spalding in his History of the Troubles in Scotland, (4to cd. Vol. i. p. 54,) gives only the Lairds of Dun, Morphy, and Leyes, and Carnegie of as forming this first Commission. i* An evidence of the eflect produced by this second visit is furnished by the fol- lowing extract from a minute of Council, of date 25th December 1639. *' The quhilk day, the Provest, Baillies, and Council agrios all in anc voice that Mr Alexan- der Henderson be delt with to accept the chairge of the ministrie within this burgh in the vacant roume of umquhile Dioctor Alexander Ross, and that the magistrates writt to him, and use all fair and possible means for his transplantation.*' 32 ABERDEENSUIIIE. by grauting a new Royal charter to the burgh, confirming in the most ample manner all their ancient rights, privileges, and immu- nities. In the latter part of this troubled reign, the citizens of Aberdeen seem to have become more generally favourable to the cause of the Covenanters, the consequence of which was, that they had now to endure the exactions of its enemies, as they had for^ merly suffered from the hostile attacks of its adherents. Yet it may be doubted whether many of them were not influenced rather by the success which attended the Covenanters, than by any well- grounded persuasion of the goodness of their cause. On the acces- sion of Charles IL, and there-establishment of Episcopacy, *'the Synod of Aberdeen distinguished itself by an humble address to his Majesty's High Commission and the High Court of Parliament, in favour of Episcopacy, dated at King's College, 18th April 1661, in which they strongly reprobate their own former conduct ;"* and this seems to have been the beginning of a course of time-serving compliance, by which they contrived in a great measure to escape from the exactions and persecutions to which the Presbyterians were exposed during that and the subsequent reign. At length the Revolution brought these persecutions to a close, and led to the establishment of Presbyterianism, as at present existing in the country ; but while the people of Aberdeen gave way to those who had power to enforce their commands, considerable numbers of them continued attached to the Episcopal forms, and the Pres- byterians of Aberdeen were by no means remarkable for their zeal in maintaining the doctrines of the Confession of Faith. The Ar- minianism which, during the last century, infested the church of Scotland to so lamentable a degree, may be said to have had one of its strongholds in Aberdeen ; and about the middle of the cen- tury, Mr John Bisset, minister of the West Church, who continu* ed faithfully to preach the doctrines of the church to which he belonged, was excluded from his own pulpit by the provost, who locked the church door against him. It was not until about the beginning of the present century that a better spirit began to manifest itself in the pulpits of Aber- deen. Since that time, a brighter day has dpwned on the Church of Scotland in general. The churches in Aberdeen have partaken of its light, and the doctrines of the Confession of Faith have now • Thorn's History of Alierdeen, Vol. i. p. 346. 4 ABERDEEN. 33 some as staunch supporters in the town and its neighbourhood, as are to be found in any other part of the country. The old parish of St Nicholas had, from an early period, three churches, the East, the West, and Grayfriars, the two former of which Had been, for a period of at least 150 years, collegiate charges, and the town, though constituting but one parish, was divided into districts under the special charge of each of the incumbents. As the population increased, additional church accommodation became requisite, and several chapels of ease were at various times erected, as is noted below more particularly. By a decree of the Court of Teinds in 1828, the parish of St Nicholas was divided into six parishes. By a subsequent Act of the General Assembly, the chapels of ease were each connected with a parochial district ^Uoad sacra ; the effect of these two measures was to increase the number of parish churches to ten ; and within the last few weeks a congregation of Original Burgher Seceders has been received back into connection with the Church of Scotland, and is about to have a parochial charge quoad sacra allotted to iLs minister. By this division of the town, a very important object has been attained, inasmuch as parochial superintendence is not now so completely out of the power of the ministers as it formerly was, though still the population of most of the parishes is so great as to prevent that close and intimate connection between the minister and his people, which the parochial system, if properly followed out, should produce and maintain. And when it is considered that each minister, in addition to the parochial charge of an al* lotted district, must also have a congregational charge, in conse- quence of many of his hearers not being resident within that dis- trict, it will be at once admitted that there is both room and cause for a still further division. The places of worship in Aberdeen in connection with the Es- tablished Church are* the following: — 1. The West Church, which stands on the site of the old church /)f St Nicholas. This building having become ruinous and unsafe, was disused as a place of worship in 1732. The present church was founded in 1751, and opened for Divine service in 1755. It ceased to be a colle- giate charge on the death of the Rev. Dr Brown. 2. The East Church stands where the quire of St Nicholas formerly was. It was erected in 1834, — the quire, which had been till then used, hav* ing become so ruinous, that it was judged necessary to pull it down. This was a collegiate charge until the division of the town ABERDEEN. C 34 ABERDEENSHIRE. into six parishes took place. 3. Grayfriars Churchy which derives its name from the monastery of Franciscan friars, to which it for- merly belonged, is the only ancient church now remaining in the town. 4. Futtie Church or St Clements. There had been, before the Reformation, a chapel in Futtie, dedicated to St Clement, but this having fallen into decay, there was no Protestant church erected in its place till 1631, when a contribution was made for the pur- pose of building one, and a catechist was settled there. The pre- sent church was erected on the site of the old one, but considera- bly enlarged in size in the year 1828. 5. The South Church. In 1779, a chapel was built in connection with the Relief body, which, however, a few years afterwards, became connected with the Established Church. The old chapel, being incommodious and insufficient for the congregation, was pulled down in 1830, and the South Church was built on its site. 6. The North Church was erected in 18'26. These are the six parishes, qttoad civilioy into which the old parish of St Nicholas was divided, as already mentioned. The parishes quoad sacra Sive the following: — 1. Trinity Church was built in 1794 as a chapel of ease to the Establishment. 2. Gaelic Church. This place of worship was erected in 1795, and it continues to be used by those of the population who speak the Gaelic language. It has a small parochial district allotted to it, under the name of Spring Garden parish. 3. Union Church was erected as a chapel of ease in 1822. 4. John Knox's Church was built in 1833 as a chapel of ease. 5. A place of worship, in connection with the Original Burgher Associate Synod, was erected in 1771. The causes which had produced and kept up the separa- tion between this body and the Establishment having been happily removed, its minister, the Rev. William Primrose, has been recently received as a member of presbytery, and a committee of that pres- bytery is at present engaged in allotting Wm a parochial district, under the name of Melville Parish. Besides these, there was a small chapel erected in the neighbourhood of the harbour, in 1825, by the Seamen's Friend Society. This was for a time supplied indiscriminately by ministers of the Establishment, and various de- nominations of orthodox Dissenters. Efforts have been made of late to place it in connection with the Established'Church, and to have a small parochial district assigned to it, and there is every probability that, in a short time, these efforts will be successful. There is also a place of worship in Aberdeen connected with ABERDEEN. 35 the Associate Synod of Original Seceders, which it is much to be desired that the way might be opened for receiving back into the Establishment. The other places of worship in Aberdeen are as follows : — 3 cha- pels belonging to the Congregational Union ; 3 chapels connected with the United Associate Synod ; 1 chapel in connection with the Relief body ; 2 chapels belonging, the one to the Scotch and the other to the English Baptists; 1 chapel belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists ; i English Episcopal chapel, with two clergymen ; 1 Scotch Episcopal chapel, with a bishop and a curate ; 1 Roman Catholic chapel ; 1 chapel which is called the United Christian Church. In addition to all these, there are also in Aberdeen small num- bers of Friends, Glassites, Irvingites, and Unitarians, which have each their own place of worship. The following table gives a summary view of the ecclesiastical state of the inhabitants of Aberdeen, as ascertained by surveys made chiefly by the elders of the respective parishes, and given in to the Royal Commissioners for Religious Instruction, when they visited this city in October 1837.* Unconnected Parish. Population. Establishment. Dissenters. with any church. East, . 4512 2623 1421 468 West, . 2024 1277 611 136 North, 4848 2864 1567 417 South, . 2837 1876 775 186 Grayfriars, 2538 1661 671 204 St Clements, 3992 3044 asi 117 Trinity, . 2252 1425 584 243 Union, . 3693 2407 1156 • 130 Spring Garden, 1486 852 425 209 John Knox's, 3172 2041 922 209 Total, 31354 . 20070 . 8963 . 2319 There is too much reason to fear, that, although the surveys on which this table is founded were made with every possible care, there are many included under the heads both of the Establish- ment and Dissenters who are little, if at all, in the habit of fre- quenting any place of worship. And it must be remembered, too, that the strongest attachment to the forms of a professing church is unhappily too often found to be compatible with an utter disre- gard or even a deliberate rejection of the saving truths of the Gos- pel. * In this table, undei' the head of Dissenters, are included both those, ^^scv^-nvycc^* twoB that are friendly and those that are adverse lo \.Vv«i ytvcv^iv^^ ^'l *• vs»:«^'a!«»^ church. 3G ABERDEENSHIRE. The extent of church accommodation provided in Aberdeen at the time of the survey was reported to the Commissioners to be as follovtrs ; and it has undergone no material alteration since, except- ing the recent admission of Mr Primrose's church into the Esta- blishment : — Total Ri'ttings. Let. Unlet. In the Establishment, . . 17271 14700 2571 In the various denomination of Dissenters, 133*22 6249 7073 30593 20949 9644 The stipends paid to the ministers of the East, West, and North parishes are L. 300 a year each ; and to the ministers of the South, Gray friars, and St Clements L.250 each; but in title case of the South Church it is made up to L. 300 by the congregation. The incomes of the other ministers in the Establishment are various, according to the amount of seat-rents, collections, &c. from which they arc paid. The ministers of other denominations are, in this respect, situ* ated nearly as the ministers of the five parishes quoad sacra. The above-mentioned stipends, paid to the ministers of the six parishes quoad civilia^ are paid out of certain funds administered by the Magistrates and Council, arising from mortificationS| seat- rents, &C., and in case of a deficiency of these, it is made up from the " common good," so called, it is to be presumed, as being the property of the community, and designed for the advancement of the welfare and true interests of the city; the principal means of which is, without doubt, the maintenance of the worship of God and the ordinances of religion, since, without these, all other ef- forts for the preservation of a sound state in the community would be in vain. In reference to this important object, it may be observed, that the remuneration of the labours of the ministry should be regard- ed in the same light as that of any other public functionary ; and that the services being performed, they should receive their in- comes as the price of the work done, and an acknowledgement of the good which they have been instrumental in effecting. It hap- pens sometimes, however, that a minister is expected not only to give his services to the public, but also to provide the funds out of which these services are to he paid. This must necessarily be the case where, as in most of the Dissenting chapels and the pa- rishes quoad sacra^ there are no other funds from whence the mi- nister's stipend can be paid. Accordingly, in the case of those pa- rishes tor the stipend of whose ministers the magistrates and coun- ABERDEEN. 37 oil are held responsible, if the seat rents, &c. do not suffice for that purpose, the sum drawn from the common good to make up the deficiency is regarded as a debt incurred, or rather as so much lost, seeing there can be little prospect of repayment. The fal- lacy of this view will be obvious, if the following statement, which was made by the Rev. James Foote to the Royal Commissioners, be considered : ** The expenditure on the churches was L. 2124, 15s. lid.: the mortifications amounted to L.285; the rental of the East Church for the year 1837, and the average collections in that church for five years, amounted to L. 950, 10s. Id.; and the rental and collections of the West Church amounted to L. 917 ; making in all L.2152, 10s. Id. ; so that there was here a surplus of L.27, 14s. 2d. beyond the whole expenditure, and, whatever was produced from the other churches, there was a clear gain to the public from these two churches alone, which of themselves produced more than the whole expenditure on all the town's churches." In another respect, too, a mistake of no small moment has been fallen into, viz. in stating the expense incurred in the erection, or by contributing to the erection, of several of the parish churches, as a debt against them in the town's accounts.* The common good being destined fof the advancement of the welfare of the com- munity, ought to be held as much liable for the expense of erect- ing churches for the maintenance of that form of worship which is by law established in the country, as for the cost of other public buildings, whose purpose it is to benefit the community in a secular point of view, such as court-houses, jails, colleges, &c. Each of these in its own department tends to advance the welfare of the community, and in doing so, they amply repay the sums laid out on their erection. The churches of the Establishment are assured- ly not less conducive to the good of the citizens than these build- ings, but, on the contrary, much more so, in as much as they are erected and maintained for the promotion of that righteousness which exalteth a nation ; it must therefore be an erroneous and improper view of the matter, to regard the expense of these erec- tions as a debt due to the community, while that of erecting the other buildings named is looked on as a useful and necessary out- lay of the public money ."f * <' The debt due by the kirk charge, amounted at 15th October last, (exclusive of the expense of building the East Church,) to L. 18,580, I2s. 2d., which may also be considered as a debt affainst the treasury.** Town's Accounts for 1838. f Irt support of this view, see particularly " Provisioun fot v\"s.\R\v\»sctfss«v ^S. >5w«:. Ministers in Burrows.** Book of the UmvetsaV "KvtV o^^21 8930 201 & 2597 4616 18a3 2510 4313 2155 2551 4706 2651 3850 6501 25 45 8439 14J37 18.775 32.912 14,098 14,009 25,107 The subjoined table gives a statement of the population of Aberdeen at various periods. It must be noted, however, that in 1755, and subsequently, the numbers exhibit the population of the parishes of St Nicholas and Old Machar, or of New and Old Aberdeen conjointly, and that, excepting the last census, there is no means of separating them from each other. In the year 1396, Aberdeen contained 2.977 inhabitants. 1572, . 4,000 1581, . 5,a33 1592, 1615, 1633, 1643, 1708, 1755, 1801, 1811, 1821, ]8;)1, 7,301 7.805 8.000 8,750 5,.j56 15,730 27,008 35.370 44,796 58,019 Classification of the professions, trades, &c. exercised in Aberdeen, exclusive of operatives, the number of whom Ccinnot be easily as« certained. Accountants, Advocates, Agents, Apothecaries and druggists. Architects, Artists. Auctioneers, Bakers, Bankers, Basket- makers. Blacksmiths, Bleachers, 2 Boat-builders, 128 Bone-crushers, 26 Book-agents, 25 Dookhinders, 4 Booksellers and Stationers, 5 Boot and shoemakers, 7 Brass Founders, 56 Brewers, 7 Brick and tile-makers, 5 Brush makers. 43 Builders and masons, 3 4 3 4 4 26 140 5 17 4 3 S9 Cabinetmakers and upholsterers, S5 A15EUDKEN. 39 Carpet-weaver, Cart and wbeel-wrighta Canrera and gilders China, glan, and stoneware dealers, Clothes-dealers, • Coach-builders, Coal-brokers Comb makers, Confectioners, . , Coopers, Coppersmiths, Cork- cutters, . Corn-merchants, Cotton-manufacturers^ Cotton-spinners, Curriers, Cutlers, Dentists, Distillers, Dress-makers and milliners, Drysalters, Djen, Engineer, (civil) Engravers and copperplate printers, Fish-curers, Fishing-tackle makers, Flax-spinners, • Fleshers, Fruiterers, Furniture brokers. Gardeners, Grocers and spirit-dealers, Gunsmiths, • Hairdressers, . . Hardware-dealers, Hut-makers and hatters, Hosiers, Insurance and ship-brokers, Iron-founders, Iron* merchants, . Ironmongers, Japan ners. Jewellers, gold and silversmiths, Leather-cutters, Lieather-mercbants, Lime-merchants, Linen and woollen-drapers, Linen manufacturers. Livery stable-keepers. Machine makers, Maltsters, • Meal dealers, Merchants and ship-owners, Messengers, Millers, . , Millwrights, Musical instrument makers, ] 12 3 19 11 3 7 3 22 27 5 2 10 J7 3 6 4 4 6 40 3 15 1 3 8 5 3 103 2 9 33 208 4 32 7 8 9 1.5 5 2 15 3 7 10 4 2 36 8 7 8 1 15 28 6 8 5 8 Nail.makers, . . 8 Nursery and seedsmen, ' . 8 Opticians, ... 3 Painters and glaziers, . 24 Paper- makers, . . 2 Pawnbrokers, . . .6 Physicians, ... 27 Plane-makers, . . .2 Plasterers, . . 13 Plumbers, . .2 Porter and ale-dealers, 3 Poulterers, . . .3 Printers, ... 8 Provision merchants, . . 6 Quill-raercbants, . . 2 Reed-makers, . . .2 Rope and twine-makers, . 1 3 Saddlers, . . .8 Sail-cloth manufacturer, . 1 Sail-makers, . . .5 SherifTs officers, . . 10 Ship -builders, . . .4 Ship-chandlers, . . 5 Shuttle-makers, . 2 Silk mercers, . . 8 Skinners, . . . 4 Slaters, ... 14 Snuff-box makers, . . 2 Spirit dealers, . . 41 Stay -makers, . . .3 Stocking manufacturers, 1 1 Stone-cutters, . . . 6 Stone merchants, . . 6 Straw-hat manufacturers, . 10 Surgeons, . . 47 Surveyors, . . .6 Tailors, . . 103 Tallow chandlers, . . 8 Tanners, ... 5 Tape manufacturer, . . 1 Tea-dealers, (wholesale) . 7 Teachers, , . . 100 Thread manufacturers, . . 3 Timber merchants, . 15 Tin-plate workers, . .15 Tobacco and snuff manufacturers, 6 Tobacco pipe makers, . . 2 Turners, . . 12 Umbrella makers, . . 5 Veterinary surgeons, . 2 Vintners, . . .193 Watch and clock-makcrs, . 23 Wine and spirit-merchants, . 1 5 Woollen spinners, . . 13 Woollen drapers, . .15 Wrights and carpenters, . 38 Educational State. — In 1607, a school for instruction in writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping was instituted by the magistrates, the master of which had a small salary allowed to him in addv<\<^v^ to the fees of the scholars, and this saVvt'^ W?» \:.wv\x«N\'Ji\ ^'^'^^ i\\\^^ 40 ABEllDEENSHIRi:. with little addition. In 1672, a school for English grammar was established on a similar footing, and both of these schools have al- ways maintained a high character. Besides these, a school pretty much on the parochial plan has been for a considerable time supported by the magistrates and kirk-session jointly at Futtie. The school-house there having be- gun to decay, was rebuilt and enlarged a few years ago, and the plan of education, which is purely elementary, was a good deal ex- tended. The incorporated trades have a school for the ordinary branches of education, and there are free schools founded and endowed by various benevolent individuals, viz. Bishop Gcrrard's, Mr James Thain's, and Mr George Davidson's. In 1815, a society was formed in Aberdeen for the erection and maintenance of schools on the system of Joseph Lancaster, and they supported for a good many years a school for boys, at which the average attendance was about 450. About eight or ten years ago they were enabled, by the bequest of L. 1000 from the late Mr Hogg of Shannaburn, to erect a school for a similar number of girls ; but other schools having been about the same time erect- ed in various parts of the town, the attendance of girls scarcely exceeded 200; and Mr Robertson, the highly talented teacher of the boys* school, having been induced to accept the office of teacher of Dr Bell's school, the attendance of boys in the Education So- ciety's school fell off, in consequence of which the society has deemed it advisable to give up one of their schools, and to divide the other into two apartments, capable of receiving about 200 each. A school for girls, capable of receiving about 100, and which is generally well attended, is supported by the Seamen's Friend So- ciety. They formerly had a school for boys also, but within these few years it has been converted into a parochial school for Union Parish, the society retaining the right of recommending boys, the children of seamen, for instruction in it. Dr Bell of Madras left L. 10,000, 3 per cent, consols, to the Magistrates and Council of Aberdeen, two-thirds of which were to be appropriated for schools in Aberdeen, and the other third for a similar purpose in Old Aberdeen. Accordingly, two schools were erected in Aberdeen, the one for about 400 boys, and the other for about 300 girls. Dr Anderson of Jamaica also bequeathed certain funds to trus^ ABERDEEN. 41 tees, for the support of a school in Aberdeen, as did also Mr Do- naldson of Orchardtown. There are besides these partly endowed schools, a considerable number of private schools of different kinds, and four or five board- ing-schools, where young ladies are received and instructed in the various branches of useful and ornamental education. About nine or ten years ago, the Rev. A. L. Gordon published an address to the inhabitants, on the necessity of establishing schools, especially for the 'poorer classes, on the sessional sys- tem, in the various parishes into which Aberdeen had then recent- ly been divided, and on the funds applicable to their support. The subject was brought under the consideration of the Presbytery, who, *' impressed with a sense of the importance of the suggestion, re- commended to the ministers of Aberdeen, to consider and devise such means as may seem best for accomplishing the object, and to report/' A memorial was soon after presented by the Presbytery to the Magistrates and Council, engaging to erect the necessary buildings, if, in order that the fees might be made sufficiently low to meet the circumstances of the poor, the city authorities would grant a small salary to the parochial teachers out of the common good. A similar memorial was soon after presented to them by the synod, but both were unsuccessful. * Notwithstanding this, the church courts encouraged the ministers to persevere, and the consequence has been, that, by private subscriptions, aided by grants of assistance from Government, (besides two parochial schools in the adjoining parishes of Woodside and Bon Accord,) two schools have been erected in John Knox's Parish, two under one roof in Trinity Parish, one is now building in the North Pa- rish, and funds have been raised for the erection of one in the East Parish (where, as well as in Grayfriars and Union Parishes, tempo- rary schools have been for some time in operation,) and in the South Parish, and measures are in contemplation for obtaining pa- rochial schools in the remaining parishes of Aberdeen. That schools, connected as these are with the parish^church, will be placed in circumstances most likely to promote their usefulness in the parishes, wilt be readily admitted by all who are not blinded to the advantages of maintaining an intimate connection bet^^ceD the religious instruction of the people, and the education of their • The lattf Provost Blaikie expressed himself in terms highly favourable \ft >55\v^^^- jcct a short time before his lamented death put an cud lo v\\v& ?ccv^\\vb» ^"Cwtx ^i*^ftssccsss.'5' of benevolence and usefulness. 42 AUEUDEENSHIKE. children. Besides the security thus obtained for the soundness of the instructions given in the schools, the sympathies of the people will be enlisted in their favour; and the teachers will be sustained by knowing that the ministers and elders take a lively interest in their success. The following is an abstract of returns which were made in 1833) to queries issued by the Magistrates and Council, with a view to ascertain the state of education in Aberdeen. In these re- turns, all sorts of schools were embraced. Various changes have, to be sure, taken place since that time, and allowance must be made for those pupils who attend, at the same time, two or more schools for different branches, as well as for those who, living in Old Aberdeen, attend schools in town, and vice versa ; but taking it as a whole, it may be looked on as giving a pretty accurate view of the present state of education in Aberdeen : Schools, 37 ; teachers, 49; pupils, 3664; males, 2546; females, 1118. At the greater part of these schools, the fees vary from 2s. to 5s. a quarter. Some, as already noticed, are free; and at others scholars are occasionally taught without fees. The following abstract exhibits a view of the branches taught : English, 2792 ; writing, 1887; arithmetic, 1567; Latin, 208; Greek, 60; mathematics, 74; geography, 281; navigation, 15; music, 333 ; elocution, 67 ; sewing, 429. There is no return of French and the other modern languages, because they are almost exclusivelyftaught^by private teachers. Besides these, there are also week-day evening schools esta- blished in a good many of the parishes, for the benefit of those who cannot attend school during the day, and of these the follow- ing return was made in 1833: Schools, 9; teachers, 16; scholars, 699'; males, 331 ; females, 368. An association was formed about two years ago, under the title of" The Association of Teachers of Sabbath Schools, under the Superintendence of the Kirk- Sessions of St Nicholas and Old Machar," which promises to be very useful, and which a few months ago had in the parish of St Nicholas 19 schools with 149 teachers, and upwards of 1800 scholars ; besides which, the Aber- deen Gratis Sabbath School Society, which has lieen in operation for about forty years, has in the parish and neighbourhood, i^O schools, attended by about 1000 scholars. The importance of normal schools, where those who have in view to become schoolmasters may be trained in the knowledge 4 AEEllDEEN. 43 and practice of the duties of their office, has been for some time strongly and generally felt, and in 1835, the General Assembly's Education Committee, in their report, dwelt at considerable length on the beneBt to be expected from such institutions. The As- sembly approved of the views taken by their Committee, and ac- quiesced in their recommendation of Aberdeen as a suitable place for the establishment of a normal school. In April 183H, a pub- lic meeting was held in Aberdeen, at which it was resolved to erect a school of this description in the town, and a committee was ap- pointed for the purpose of carrying this resolution into effect. Se- veral of the neighbouring counties, as well as the Presbytery of Aberdeen, nominated committees to co-operate with this one, and the Trustees of Dick's bequest have expressed their strong appro- bation of such an institution, and their desire to assist the other bodies in securing for the North of Scotland the benefits that might be expected to arise from it. The expectation, that the Committee of the House of Commons on Education in Scotland will take up the subject of normal schools, and the hope that Government may make some acceptable proposal for their esta* blishment, with other causes of a less general nature, have hither- to retarded the operations of these committees ; but there is every reason to expect, that in no long time a normal school will be established in Aberdeen. Grammar School. — The history of this school can be traced back as far at least as 1418, when Andrew de Syves, Vicar of Ber- vie, who had been master of the school for some years, died. Little is known about it, however, at this early period. In 1479, the salary attached to the office was L. 5 Scots. About fifty years after, it was raised to 10 marks, and certain perquisites were also allowed to the master. Twenty years later, the salary was fixed at 50 marks, and 2s. quarterly assigned as the fee of each scholar. In 1670, the rector, or head master, had 600 marks, and there were under him three ushers, each of whom had 200 marks and the fees arising from his own class, the rate of payment being at this time Ids. 4d. quarterly. The number and status of the teachers continue the same at present; the fees are 10s. 6d. quarterly, and the salaries are L. 90 to the rector, and L. 45 to each of the ushers. The funds from which these salaries are provided, arise from benefactions bequeathed at various times for the ^w\^^^'s.^ — ^^ most important of which was by Dt Y^Vt\<:^^\^^vs^^^^v^^'»^V^ ^^ 44 AUEUDEENSHIRE. Marischal College, who, in 1634, mortified the lands of Ferryhill, in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen, for the maintenance of four masters in the grammar school. These lands were feued in 1752, at L. 1 64 Sterling, half of which, in terms of Dr Dun's deed, is allot- ted to the rector^ and the other half equally divided among the other three masters. It is provided by Dr Dun's deed, that any scholar bringing a sufficient testimonial of poverty shall be taught Latin gratis; that all of the name of Dun, and the sons of tenants on the lauds of Ferryhill, ^^ and haill remanent lands to be con- quiest for the use foresaid," shall likewise be taught gratis ; and in case of a vacancy in the office of any of the masters, a person of the surname of Dun, or a tenant or tenant's son on the lands of Ferryhill, if found qualified, shall be appointed " without anie contestatione." The course of teaching followed in this school occupies five years ; and commencing with the elements of Latin^ the pupils are led on through a series of classical reading and themes, and of late years, the elements of the Greek language have been taught to the more advanced pupils. The regular business of the school occupies the hours from 9 to 12 and from 3 to 5 four times a-week, with three hours on Wednesday and two hours on Saturday, besides which arithmetic is taught at an extra hour. Until lately it was the practice for all the pupils to assemble every morning for prayer in the public school, but this has been discontinued, and instead each master opens his class with prayer in his own classrroom. It is to be regretted that, with the excep- tion of this, and the prescribing in the two higher classes, of what are called sacred lessons on Saturdays (if they deserve the name of exceptions), neither master nor pupil has leisure to spare, from the communication and reception of classical knowledge, to attend to the much more important concern of religious and moral cul- ture.* In this respect, however, the Grammar School of Aber- deen is probably not more to be complained of than most other public classical schools, especially those on old foundations. The number of pupils attending this school is generally about 200 ; and there is an examination annually held in presence of the * In one of a set ofTuIes laid down by the Town Council in 1700, for the regula- tion of the Grammar School, the following clause occurs ; <* once a week all Uie rules and questions of the Shorter Catechism are to be repeated publiclie." But if this rule was ever attended to, it is long now, since it fell into disuse. :\ ABERDEEN. 45 magistrates, the ministers of the Established Church, and the pro- fessors of Marischal College, when prizes, provided by the magis- trates, are awarded to the most deserving ; and the appearance which is generally made at this examination is such as to warrant the assertion, that, in as far as regards the communication of a knowledge of Latin, the Grammar School of Aberdeen, under the rectorship of Dr Melvin, is inferior to none in Scotland. Gordon* 8 and SimpsorCs Hospital. — Robert Gordon, a descendant of the family of Straloch, having acquired a competent fortune as a merchant in Dantzig, returned to his native place about the be- ginning of the last century. Subsequently to this, his habits gra- dually became extremely penurious, and he almost denied himself the necessaries of life. Previous to his death, which occurred in 1732, he executed a deed, by which he conveyed all his property to the Provost, Bailies, Town Council, and the four Ministers of Aberdeen* in trust for the erection and maintenance of an hos- pital for the reception and education of boys, who are sons or grand- sons of decayed burgess of guild ; and, 1*^, relations of the founder of the surname of Gordon ; 2c?, relations of the founder of the sur- name of Menzies ; 3rf, relations of the founder of any other sur- name ; 4/A, not related to him, but of the surname of Gordon ; bthj not related to him, but of the surname of Menzies ; 6^/i, not related to him, and of any other surname ; Ithy sons and grand- sons of decayed tradesmen members of any of the incorporated trades ; 8^, sons and grandsons of dyers and barbers ; and, 9 50 ABERDEENSHIRE. on the United Fund. At first, this plan was attended with success, the sum obtained being nearly L. 1000 ; but after a few years, the trouble of collection and other circumstances occasioned a gradual falling off, so that in 1835 scarcely L.400 was obtained ; in con- sequence of which, it became unavoidable to attempt some other means of raising the requisite sum. Accordingly, in 1836, at a head court of the inhabitants, a resolution was entered into to raise the sum of L. 1700 for that year by an equitable self-imposed as- sessment on heritors and tenants, on a principle similar to that which had been for some years acted on in Dundee and other places. It was, however, found impossible to collect this assess- ment without resorting to law, and in 1838 the magistrates were obliged to interpose their authority and enforce payment. It is un- necessary to dwell here on the evils consequent on a legal assess- ment, which at once puts an end to the Scottish system of paro- chial relief, and gives the pauper, however undeserving, a legal right, not to ^^ a help," but to a maintenance ; but one effect of it may be stated as being peculiar to this parish, viz. the alienation of a fund which was destined by the late Mr John Burnett " for the support and relief of such persons living within the town and pa- rish of Aberdeen only, who are unable to sustain themselves, and who are bedrid, or are afflicted with bodily diseases that are sup- posed to be incurable," or those afflicted with lingering diseases, and others, particularly the aged. Mr Burnett, anticipating the possibility of a legal assessment being imposed for the relief of the parochial poor, annexed to his bequest the following provision : " I hereby, therefore, in case of the foresaid assessment taking place either at my death or at any time thereafter, discharge and debar the minister and kirk -session of Aberdeen and my other trustees above-named, from applying the foresaid for the purposes above- mentioned, during all the years that such assessment for the poor shall continue. And in case such assessment shall continue to take place within the town of Aberdeen at any time after my death, for the space of seven years successively, I in that event appoint the minister and kirk.session of Aberdeen to denude themselves of the foresaid haill lands of Kinnadie with all eventual interests com- petent to them therein under this deed."* The proceeds of this be- quest amounted to about L. 280 annually, which, until 1838, were * It is right to state, however, that the alienation of this fund is in one respect less to be regretted than otherwise it might be, because it will not be altogether diverted from the poor, inasmuch as it is directed to be transferred to the managers of the In- Jrmarjr, to be by them applied as noticed in the account of that institution. ^ ABERDEEN. 51 carefully distributed by the trustees of Mr Burnett, in accordance with his directions, among the aged and infirm, ^' with a preference to such persons who are known to have lived soberly and religious- ly;" but these, the most necessitous as well as the most deserving class of the parochial poor, are now merged in the general mass, and receive a sii^ply simply and barely according to their necessi- ties, without reference to their previous character ; and the amount of this relief given to them forms an addition to the sum to be as- sessed on the inhabitants. The relief of the parochial poor is placed under the direc- tion of a committee consisting of delegates from the general kirk- session, the magistrates, the Dissenting congregations which con- tribute to the United Fund, and individual donors, together with a proportionate number of gentlemen appointed on behalf of the inhabitants at the time of commencing th6 self-imposed assessment. This committee meets in the beginning of every month to receive and determine on applications for relief, which it is to be regretted is regulated much more by the means at their command, than by the necessities of the applicants, being, on an ave- rage, certainly not more than at the rate of 4s. a-month. Table for seven years of the number of poor and amount of re- lief given : No. of No. of de- orphans, serted families. Expenditure. Income. 52 11 L.2902 L.2777 62 15 3171 2877 42 28 2928 2436 43 35 2901 2132 33 41 2990 2634 53 49 3099 2111 60 63 3569 3868 In pursuance of the agreement entered into in the year 1768, respecting the relief of the parochial poor, the adult inmates of the work-house or Poor's Hospital, and the girls maintained there, were pensioned out of the United Fund, and the hospital was thenceforth devoted to the maintenance and education of boys only. The number of these was at first 25, and until the year 1795, when it was increased to 40, no addition was made to this number. The cause ofthis may be supposed to have been, that the United Fund necessarily occupied prominently the atten- tion of the managers, in consequence of the continual recurrence of meetings regarding it, and the number and variety of the trans- actions connected with it; by which means, in the course of time, a system of keeping the accounts of both institutions came to be No. of paupers, 1832, 1245 1833, 1309 1834, 1332 .1835, 1262 1836, 1282 1837, 1336 1838, 1277 Boyi Hospital,' 52 ABERDEENSHIRE. introduced, by which the hospital was represented as subsidiary to the United Fund, and dependent on it for a considerable yearly sum, towards defraying its expenses. This, however, was not the case, and on a careful scrutiny and separation of the various sources of revenue belonging to both, which was made in the year 1828, it was found that the income accruing to the Poor's Hospital was abundantly sufficient for all its wants, and since that time the accounts have been kept entirely distinct. The house which had been occupied since 1740 by the hospital being found to stand in the way of projected improvements in the jail and court-house, was purchased from the managers, and the hospital was removed in the year 1818, to a house in the Gallowgate, which they bought* Subsequently to this, the managers wished to increase the number of the inmates, but the accommodations being inadequate, they, in the year 1829, purchased a house of larger size in the Upper Kirkgate, and since then, fifty boys have been maintained and edu« cated in the " Boys' Hospital ;'^ and as there is still a certain sur- plus of funds, proposals have been at various times entertained for still further extehding the institution. The age of admission into this hospital is from eight to ten, and the boys received into it are taught the ordinary branches of education, — reading, writing, arithmetic, church music, and the principles of religion. The sources from which the income of the hospital is derived, are va- rious mortifications or bequests secured on land, together with a collection annually in the churches of the Establishment, and se- veral of the Dissenting chapels. The following table shows the income and expenditure for seven years ; the number of inmates being fifty-five, viz. matron, schoolmaster, treasurer, and two ser- vants, in addition to fifty boys : Income. Expenditure. ]8d2, L.814 L.593 1833, 708 611 1834, 713 618 1835, 840 589 1836, 760 594 1837, 658 630 1838, 893 606 GiM Hospital. — The want of an institution for the mainte- nance and education of girls, similar to the Boys' Hospital, had been for some time felt and regretted, and, in 1828, a subscription was entered into for the purpose of obtaining a fund for the establish- ment of such an hospital. This, in the course of a few months, amounted to K 1500, and the Girls' Hospital was opened for the reception of twenty girls, the children or orphans of parocbidi Income. 18d2, L.572 I8SS, 721 1834, 450 1835, 443 1836, 590 1837, 482 1838, 625 ABERDEEN. o3 paupers, in 1829. The encouragement given to it by the public was such, that next year the managers were enabled to increase the number to thirty, and in 1835 ten more were received. The ages within which these girls are admitted, are from six to nine ; the branches of education taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, church music, sewing, knitting, and house-work, with instructions in the principles of religion, and they continue inmates of the hos- pital generally till they reach the age of fourteen. The income of the hospital is derived from an annual collection in the churches, the interest of the subscribed capital, and a fourth part of the proceeds of Mr Simpson of Colliehiirs mortification to the workhouse of Aberdeen ; and the following table exhibits its amount, with that of the expenditure, for the last sev^n years : Expenditure. L.dl3 337 302 417 328 817 361 House of Refiige. — The establishment of a House of Refuge in Aberdeen had been several times agitated, but it was not until 1836 that sufficient funds for the purpose could be obtained. The munificent donation of L. 1000, then given by George Watt, Esq. surgeon, for the purpose of commencing this useful charity, was speedily followed up by a general subscription in the town and neighbourhood, and the sum of L. 3000 was raised in the course of a few months, — annual contributions to the extent of L. 136 being at the same time subscribed for, and the institution was commen- ced, a body of directors chosen, and regulations laid down at a public meeting of the inhabitants. A suitable house having been hired and furnished, the House of Refuge was opened on the 5th September 1836. The mode of con- ducting the details of its management has been principally borrow- ed from the House of Refuge in Edinburgh ; and though many and great difficulties occurred in the outset, as indeed was to be anticipated, there is abundant reason to know that not a little good has been done by the institution, (especially in regard to great numbers of neglected children, who are furnished with that educa- tion which their parents either could not or would not give them), and that at an extremely moderate expense. Under the judicious care of the present superintendant, Mr Ed- ward Reid, (who had for some time officiated as chaplain and 34 ABERDBENSHIRE. schoolmaster before his appointment to be superintendant, and who still unites the duties of these two offices to those of the superin- tendant), the system of domestic management of the establish- ment has now been carried on for nearly two years, and the extent as well as the nature of the benefits derivable from the institution become more justly appreciated and more sensibly felt* In the first outset of any institution, a considerable expense must necessarily be incurred for furniture, &c. ; while, on the other hand, the income of an infant institution is generally short consi- derably of what it afterwards reaches, when the public have become aware of its claims on their support. Hence, the expenditure of the House of Refuge during the first seven months was L. 725, while its income for the same period was only L. 191. Since that time, two complete years have now elapsed, and the following is a view of the financial concerns of the institution for these two years : Inamtf. 1837. 1838. Subscriptions and donations, L.dl4 12 L. 416 13 1 nterest of inoney« 84 ' 89 12 Board for inmates. 77 10 147 7 Received for work done. 30 3 62 12 L. 506 5 "o L.716 6 "o ExjHindHnre, 1837. 1838. Provisions, L.299 5 L.307 4 Repairs, 35 14 8 2 Furnishings and clothes. 103 6 42 5 Materials and implements. 4 14 Salaries and wages. 104 5 133 11 Fire and light, 40 8 41 4 Rent, 45 45 Printing and incidents, (med.). 39 3 59 8 L.671 15 L. 636 14 The following table exhibits the number of persons received into the house, with the results of the cases and the periods of re- sidence. Admitted to 1st April 1837 Ti;r 1^ V above 14, 35 ^^^ {under 14, 54 ^ 1 ( above 14, 36 Females, J ^^j^^j^; ^ 161 Dismissed to 1st April 1837 Provided with work, 17 Sent to their parishes, 5 L«ft voluntarily, . 18 Taken out bv relatives, 19 Sent to the Infirmary, 14 Died in the house, 8 Deserted, . 10 Dismissed as improper, 8 — 99 to 1st April 1838. to 1st April 1839. 51 . . 95 112 . 120 86 . 113 88 . 93 837 421 to 1st April 1838. to 1st April 1839. 26 . 29 35 . 21 28 106 90 . 57 29 33 8 19 14 18 24 36 254 321 ABERDEEN. Periods of residence. More than 12 mouths, 19 More than 5 months, 11 5 4 10 5 3 9 8 2 8 : 8 1 7 11 Under 1 6 14 55 18 22 47 56 99 367 674 Remaining in the Houae 1st April 1839, m;r i_ i above 14, . 15 I *? i^ I above 14, . 22 ^^' ] under l^ . 84 ^«"^-« \ under u) . 29 100 House of Industry and Magdalene Asylum, — Within these few months, the same benevolent individual whose liberality was the means of establishing the House of Refuge, has conveyed to trus- tees, named by himself, along with the directors of the House of Refuge, the property of Oldmill, situated about four miles west- ward from the town, which yields about L.164 of yearly rent, for the purpose of erecting and maintaining a House of Industry and a Magdalene Asylum. The necessary arrangements are not as yet completed, but there is no doubt that every possible diligence will be used, and that these beneficial institutions will bl opened in the course of a very short time. Deaf and Dumb Institution, — This institution was opened in 1819, a fund having been raised for the purpose by contributions gradually collected for a year or two previously, and the direction and instruction of its inmates were entrusted to Mr Robert Taylor, who had been sent to Paris to receive the necessary in- structions under the celebrated Abb6 Sicard. In consequence of the insufficiency of the funds to provide for the entire maintenance of the institution, it was found necessary to adopt a rule that one- half of the board of the pupils only should be defrayed by the in- stitution, the other half being required to be advanced from some other source; and although the rate of board charged be on- ly L. 16 per annum, this rule has in several instances prevented the admission of children whose parents were unable to raise the required sum ; though, on the other hand, those who have used exertions, and made application either to public funds or to bene- volent individuals, have seldom been disappointed. Another class of boarders is also received under the charge of the teacher, who do not draw on the funds of the institution for any part of their maintenance, and the teacher, whose salary is only L. 60, is thus enabled, with advantage to the institution, from the increased number of pupils, to earn a comfortable livelihood. 56 ABEUDEENSHIUE. The branches of instruction taught in the institution are, the knowledge of objects, English reading and writing, arithmetic, geography, and the principles of religion. In 1834, Mr Taylor, having resigned the direction of the insti- tution, Mr Matthew R. Burns, himself deprived of hearing at a very early age, was appointed in his room ; and his sister. Miss Burns, was appointed housekeeper. At the time, some of the di- rectors felt a doubt whether Mr Burns's deafness might not prove an obstacle to his usefulness, while others were rather of opinioa that, by placing him more closely on a par with his pupils, it would be an advantage. Respecting the result, it is unnecessary to say more than that, by his ability, zeal, and unwearied diligence, the pupils have been benefited in no common degree, and the character of the institution (which depends entirely on that of the teacher,) has been raised to the level of those excellent and more extensive institutions of the same kind in Edinburgh, London, and Dublin. The period of a pu- pil's continuance in the institution is usually about five years. The number at present receiving aid from the funds is 12, viz. 9 boys and 3 girls. The expenditure is provided for by annual subscriptionSf occasional donations, the sale of work done in the institution, and by the proceeds of an annual public examination of the pupils ; and the sums thus obtained have been sufficient, with great economy^ to provide for the maintenance of a limited number of pupils ; but the institution is very far from meeting the necessities of the north of Scotland, as was contemplated at its original establishment. The following table shows the income and expenditure, with the number of pupils whose board was partly paid out of the funds, for the last seven years. 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. Income^ L. 121 Expenditure, 99 Pupils, . 6 Burnett's Fund. — In the year 1783, Mr John Burnett of Dens died, bequeathing the bulk of his property to the following cha- ritable purposes : Two-thirds of the rents of Kinnadie for the sup- port of aged and diseased poor persons in Aberdeen, with a spe* cial reference to their previous respectability and moral character. This distribution (the amount of which w;sis about L. 250 annually) was directed to be continued as long as there should be no legal assessment for the support of the poor of Aberdeen ; but in the event of an assessment being levied, then, during each year of 126 146 201 225 172 273 142 149 223 148 185 250 5 5 9 10 11 12 ABEUDEEN. 57 the continuance of- such assessment, the money was directed to be applied by the managers of the Infirmary, one-half to defray the expense of a physician to attend the sick poor of Aberdeen, who are not proper objects to be receii:ed into the infirmary, and the other half to the maintenance of pauper lunatics belonging to the town and county of Aberdeen ; and this alteration in the des- tination is declared perpetual if the assessment shall continue to be levied for seven successive years. The other third part of the rents was directed to be accumulated, for the purpose of yielding at the end of every forty years, (reckoned from 1774,) two prizes, of L. 1200 and L. 400 respectively, to be given to the authors of the two best essays on the following subject, " that there is a Being all-powerful, wise, and good, by whom every thing exists*; and particularly to obviate difiiculties regarding the wisdom and good- ness of the Deity ; and this, in the first place, from considerations independent of written Revelation ; and in the second pIace,^from the Revelation of the Lord Jesus Christ ; and from the whole to point out the inferences most necessary and useful to mankind.'' The decision of these prizes he directed to be by a cominittee of three individuals, chosen by his trustees and the Professors of King's and Marischal Colleges. The term of forty years prescribed by Mr Burnett, expiring in 1814, the first adjudication of the prizes took place in that year : the three judges appointed by the trustees and the profes- sors were, the Rev, Dr Gilbert Gerrard, Professor of Divinity in King's College; Dr Robert Hamilton, Professor of Natural Philosophy in Marischal College ; and the Rev. Dr George Glennie, Professor of Moral Philosophy in Marischal College ; and the first prize was by them adjudged to the Rev. Dr William Lawrence Brown, Principal of Marischal College ; and the se- cond to the Rev. John Bird Sumner, the present Bishop of Chester. Any surplus of this fund that may remain after the payment of these prizes is directed to be laid out in the purchase of lands, the rents of which are to be added to the other two-thirds. From the time of Mr Burnett's death until last year, the former destinatfon of these two- thirds has been acted on by his trustees, and about 160 of the most deserving of the poor in Aberdeen have been supplied by the distribution of these funds in small monthly payments. An assessment having, however, been found altogether unavoidable, this source of supply to the poor has been cut ofi*, and the pensioners on this fund have been transferred to the parochial 56 ABERDEENSHIRE. funds. The managers of the Infiraiary, seeing that it would be ut- terly impossible for one physician to attend the sick poor who are not fit for reception into the house, now that the town is increased to upwards of four times the population which it contained at the time of Mr Burnett's death, and that the General Dispensary is well adapted to carry out the spirit of Mr Burnett's intentions, but is very insufficiently supported by the subscriptions raised for its benefit, — have resolved that the half of the fund placed under their direction for this purpose, shall be given for the present to that institution ; its application to be under the direction of a cona* mitee, consisting of an equal number of Managers of the Infirmary, and Directors of the Dispensary ; — the other half they retain in their own hands, to be applied for the maintenance of pauper luna- tics from the town and county of Aberdeen in the Lunatic Asylum. Pauper Lunatic Fund. — In 1820, a fund was instituted for the purpose of defraying the expense attending the maintenance, in the Lunatic Asylum, of lunatic paupers belonging to the parish of St Nicholas. ^rhe sources from which its support is derived are, collections (formerly annual, but which have been discontinued for the last two years,) in the churches of the Establishment and in several Dissenting churches, together with occasional donations and le- gacies, and its management is entrusted to a committee, consisting of the Established and other clergymen, with a few other gentle- men annually elected. The annexed table exhibits the income and expenditure of this fund, and the number of patients whose board hiis been de- frayed out of it for the last seven years : — Income. Kxpcnditure. Patients. 1832, . L.450 L.371 . 23 1833, 368 . 372 . 21 1834, . 390 . 8;37 . 20 1835, 366 . 339 . 19 ia%, . 873 . 278 . 16 1837, 380 . 330 . 14 ia38. . ,333 . 380 . 17 Murtle's Fund, — The late John Gordon, Esq. of Murtle, by deeds dated in 1815, bequeathed a certain part of his property to trustees, for distribution to various charitable objects, some of which were specified, and others left to the discretion of the trus- tees. Among those specified by Mr Gordon, was one respecting which he expresses himself as follows : — " With regard to the sums bequeathed for the purpose of establishing lectures on prac- tical religion at one or both universities, it may be proper to add ABERDEEN. 59 a few words explanatory of my design and intention in that be* quest. The effect of early impressions on the youthful mind is ge-> nerally admitted. These lectures, therefore, if properly conduct- ed and pressed home, may, by the blessing of God, be the means of laying the foundation of an early piety in the youthful mind, and thus give God the first possession of the heart. Whilst al- most every branch of useful knowledge is ably taught in our Bri- tish universities, it is matter of regret that so little provision is made for the instruction of our youth in the more important duties of religion. In apportioning the sums of money for charitable purposes under this deed, I would, therefore, beg leave to recommend to my trustees, to give a decided preference to all charitable institutions having for their object the education of the rising generation, more especially where due attention is paid to their instruction in the prin- ciples of religion. In doing this, they will best fulfil my intentions." The trustees accordingly, in the exercise of the powers devolv- ed on them, have annually paid L. 100 to lecturers on Practical Religion in King's and Marischal Colleges; L. 150 to aged fe- male servants; L. 150 to Sunday schools; and set aside L. 300 as a fund for the establishment of an hospital for orphan and desti- tute girls; and the residue they have apportioned in annual or oc- casional donations to various institutions, such as the Deaf and Dumb Institution, the Sick Man's Friend Society, the Female Society, the CJoal Fund, the Clothing Society, the Dispensaries, &c. Camegie*8 Fund, — In 1835, Mr John Carnegie bequeathed a sum of between L. 7000 and L. 8000 to certain trustees, for the purpose of establishing an hospital for female orphans, which will probably be conjoined with that portion of Mr Gordon's bequest which his trustees have set aside for a similar purpose. Orphan Girls* Hospital, — In the year 1836, Mrs Elmslie, a widow lady, residing in London, devoted a sum of L. 26,000 to the erection and endowment of an hospital at Aberdeen for orphan and destitute girls. This sum she believed that her husband, had he lived to execute his intention, would have applied for this pur- pose. Accordingly, a site having been selected on the west side of the town, the building was commenced, and is now very far ad- vanced towards completion^ SJiaw*8 Fund. — In 1807, Alexander Shaw executed a deed, vesting his property in trustees, with directions that it should be allowed to accumulate till it should be sufficient to build and en- dow an hospital for 5 boys and 5 girls, either orphans, or desert- 60 abeudeenshirh:. ed and destitute ; these children to be admitted between the ages of two and four; to take the name of either Shaw or Davidson; and to be taught English, and a little French, writing, and arith- metic, (the girls also to be taught needle-work.) The boys to continue in the hospital till they are twelve years of age, and to be allowed L. 6 of apprentice fee, and to receive L. 10 when their apprenticeship is out ; the girls to continue in the hospital to the age of thirteen, and to get L. 10 if afterwards they remain five years in the families with whom they are placed as servants. A clause is also inserted in the deed, directing that any boy of supe- rior genius is to be retained in the hospital till he is twenty-one years of age, to study the French language diligently, and to be permitted to learn any profession for which he may be fitted and most inclined. As yet the trustees have not been in a condition to carry this deed into fiill effect, but they have within the last few months rented a house in the Gallowgate for the purpose of carry- ing into execution the benevolent designs of the founder. Miss Cruickshank^s Fund. — Miss Elizabeth Cruickshank, who died in 1818, bequeathed the bulk of her property to trustees, for the purpose of accumulation until it should be sufficient to found and support an asylum for the blind in Aberdeen. These trus- tees were three in number, but two of them having died, the sur- vivor, by virtue of a power contained in the deed, assumed, in the year 1832, several gentlemen to act along with him in the dis- charge of the trust Various difficulties occurred in regard to the disposal of some parts of the property, and it was not until very lately that any fur- ther steps were taken towards carrying Miss Cruickshank's bene- volent intentions into effect, than taking a census of the number of blind persons in the city of Aberdeen and its neighbourhood, with their ages and circumstances. Within the last few weeks, how- ever, a plan of the intended building has been approved of, and its erection will be proceeded in forthwith. United Coal Fund. — Bequests had been at different times made by various individuals for the purpose of supplying the poor of Aberdeen with coals during the inclement weather in winter, and in 1801,'^by an agreement among the trustees appointed over four of these be- quests, viz, those of Mr Alexander Robertson, Mr Andrew Robert- son, Mr John Smith, and Mr John Cushnie, they were united into one fund for this benevolent purpose. The fund thus obtained amounted to L. 1000, and by various donations and bequests' since ABERDEEN. 61 added} it has now reached to nearly L. 2900 ; the interest of which, along with occasional donations, and sometinoes, in cases of necessity, a small portion of the principal, is annually expended in the purchase of coals in summer, which are distributed during winter, in por- tions of one-fourth of a boll or one«sixteenth of a ton to each fa- mily. The fund is placed under the management of twenty-one gentlemen chosen from the kirk-session, the magistrates, the ma- nagers of the Poor's Hospital, and the contributors or their trus- tees. The quantities of coals distributed for the last seven years have been as follows : — 1832, . 175 tons. 1833, . 1854 1834, . 1854 1835, . 1841 1836, . 174 1837, • 334 (a second distribution hafing been made.) 1838, . 175 Ladies* Working Society. — It is little more than a year since this society was instituted for the purpose of providing industrious fe- males with the means of support, by supplying them with needle- work, mostly of a plain and useful kind, and by exposing the fruits of their industry for sale at a moderate price. It may be regarded as a useful assistant to the Clothing Society, and as serving, in some degree, to lessen the demands on the funds of the Female Society. It is managed by a committee of ladies, and depends for its Ainds entirely on the contributions of members, and the sale of the"work done for the society by its objects. Clothing Society. — This society was commenced in 1817, for the purpose of supplying articles of clothing to the industrious poor. It is managed by a committee of ladies, who superintend the mak- ing of the clothes, and personally investigate the cases recom- mended before any supply is given. The funds arise entirely from the contributions of members, with occasional donations and legacies. From deficiency of funds, the society has been unable, in general, to make a distribution of clothes oftener than once in two years, when articles, to the value of about LfodOO, have been given to nearly 1000 individuals, each article being previously stamped with the name of the society. Within the last year, the plan of^the society has been modified in several particulars, the chief of which is, that the clothes dis- tributed shall not be considered as given, but as lent to the per- sons receiving them, — a measure by which the society will be bet- ter enabled to guard against the abuses to which they were for- G2 ABERDEENSHIRE. merly subjected by individuals pawning or selling the articles which had been furnished to them. Sick MarCs Friend Society. — This benevolent society was instituted in the year 1792, and its object is, the relief of the indigent sick, by affording them such aid in money from time to time as the funds will bear, and the circumstances of the objects seem to call for. The town is divided into thirty-two districts, which are allotted to visitors, whose duty it is personally to investigate the cases recommended for assistance, and to direct the amount of relief to be given, which is in payments of Is. each, monthly, fort- nightly, or weekly, according to the necessities of the case. The amount distributed annually has been, for some time, nearly L. 320, the whole of which arises from the annual contributions of members, donations, and occasional legacies. Female Society. — This society was commenced in 1805, for the relief of aged and indigent females. Its funds are derived from the subscriptions of its members, and occasional donations and be- quests. It is managed by a committee of ladies, who personally investigate the cases recommended before giving relief. The dis- tribution is in sums of Is. 6d., 2s. 6d., or ds. twice a quarter, and in this way about L. 250 are distributed annually. The number of regular pensioners on the society's books is at present about 230, besides a good many receiving occasional supply. Bible Societies, — In 1811, a society was instituted in Aberdeen, auxiliary to the British and Foreign Bible Society, and its operations were carried on with considerable zeal and success, and besides supplying considerable numbers of Bibles to the surrounding dis- tricts, contributions to a large amount were sent by it to the so- ciety in London. The disputes that arose in 1826 in consequence of the distribution of the Apocrypha by the London Society, and other practices that were by many felt to be wrong, led in 1827, to the formation of another Bible Society, whose surplus funds have generally been devoted to aid the operations of the Edinburgh Bible Society. Previous to this, a society had been instituted in Aberdeen for the purpose of supplying Bibles at prime cost to the sailors trad- ing at the port, which, after issuing in the course of nine years upwards of 2300 Bibles, was, in 1827, joined with the Auxiliary Naval and Military Bible Society, then recently instituted, the object of which is the same with that of the similar societies in London, Edinburgh, &c viz. to supply Bibles and Testaments at a reduced price, (generally about two-thirds of the prime cost,) to ABERDEEN. C3 soldiers, sailors, bargemen, fishers, and pensioners. The surphis funds of this society, (which^ however, can never be large, in con- sequence of the terms on which the supply is afforded,) are re- mitted to the Naval and Military Bible Society in London. In the following table a view is given of the income of each of these societies, and of the number of Bibles and Testaments an- nually distributed by them since the year 1832. Auxiliary Bible Society. Aberdeen Bible Society. Naval and Military Bible Society. Income. Bibles. Test. Income. Bibles. Test. Income. Bibles. Test. 1832, L. 183 194 67 L. 90 144 77 L.25 144 36 1833. 282 155 104 108 114 150 20 159 33 1834, 99 183 77 97 170 139 15 221 92 1835, 100 278 168 70 183 88 17 148 55 1836. 141 252' 135* 133 247 160 16 137 45 1837, 130 102 49 12 119 44 1838, 207 110 84 117 181 175 5 73 47 Missionary and other Religious Societies, — ITiere are many as- sociations of these descriptions in Aberdeen, some of which are supported exclusively by the members of the Established Church, others by various Dissenting bodies, and some indiscriminately by both. As, however, they are all without any permanent funds or vested property, it has been too often found that after being sup- ported with spirit for a time, they have been liable to languish, while new ones are instituted or old ones revived from time to time, as occasional impulses are given. Their existence and efficiency are thus rendered so precarious, that it becomes not easy to say how many of them are at any time in active operation. The following is, however, given as a tolerably correct list of the principal ones : Two Religious Tract Societies, — the one, instituted in 1797 and revived in 1811, has distributed about 1,500,000 tracts, partly gra- tuitously, and partly sold at low prices ; — the other lately instituted. Eight Missionary Societies, of which three are supported by members. of the Church of Scotland, and five by Dissenters of va- rious denominations. One Gratis Sabbath Evening School Society, established in 1797 — supported by Dissenters — has at present about twenty schools, attended by nearly 1000 pupils. One Seamens' Friend Society, instituted in 1823, has a chapel and a school for girls, (the male children being received into the * These tiro numbers are but average statements. The whole distribution for the year 1836 was 387 ; but as no report was published, it has not been found pos« sible to ascertain the exact number of Bibles and Testaments which went to make up ibis total. The abore numbers are giTen, therefore, as being the averages propor- tional to the aggregate distribution of tlie other six years stat^. 64 ABERDEENSHIRE. Union Parish Parochial School.) At first, the chapel was sup- plied by ministers of the Established and Dissenting churches ; but the Voluntary controversy having put an end to this, the sup- ply was found too burdensome for the parochial ministers alone. A chaplain was therefore appointed, but the funds could not long bear the expense of his salary, and the chapel has been for sonie time^ shut up. An effort has lately been made to clear off the debt affecting the chapel, and this being now nearly effected, there is reason to hope that a small parochial district will be allotted, and a minister settled in it in a short time. One society for promoting Christianity among the Jews ; one for promoting the Religious principles of the Reformation ; one Antipatronage Society; one North American Colonial Society; one Temperance Society ; one for Promoting Education in the Highlands and Islands ; one for promoting Female Education in India ; two for promoting the total Abolition of Slavery ; one for the Defence and Extension of the Church of Scotland; one for pro« moting Education and Reformation among the Prisoners in the JaiL Harbour. — The river, as it approaches the sea, passes through a wide basin which formerly extended from the foot of the Castle Hill, on the north side, to the lands of Torrie on the south, and the harbour of Aberdeen consisted merely of a channel near the north side of this basin, separated from the course of the Dee by the Inches — low sandy islands, generally covered at high water* For the accommodation of shipping in this harbour, the quay-head was erected (at what period is not known) opposite to the place where the weigh-house now is, and access was obtained to it from the town by the Shore Brae. The entrance to this harbour was bad, owing to a bar at the mouth of the river, the depth of water in which was often not more than two feet at low water. The earliest attempts to effect any improvement were by the -erection of a bulwark on the south side of the entrance, in 1608, and the removal, in 1618, of a large stone, which lay nearly in the middle of the river. Between 1623 and 1658, the quay was extended eastward towards Futtic, by which means a considerable portion of ground was redeemed below the Castle Hill, and this is now covered with buildings. In 1755, an additional quay was built a good way farther down, opposite the village of Torrie. In 1770, further improvements were projected, and on a report from Mr Smeaton, recommending the erection of a pier on the north side of the entrance, (by which the influx of sand from the north might be prevented, and the removal of the bar effected by confining the ABERDEEN. 65 water of the Dee withiD narrower bounds,) the work was commen- ced in 1775, and finished in 1781. The length of this pier was 1200 feet, and it terminated in a round head, whose diameter was 60 feet. Owing to a departure from Mr Smeaton's plan, (the pier having been founded too far to the north,) it was found that a heavy swell entered the harbour, — to obviate which, it was found necessary to project a bulwark from the pier, about one-third across the channel. By these means a considerable improvement was ef- fected, but as the trade of the city increased, inconvenience was still felt from deficiency of water on the bar, and, in 1810, Mr Tel- ford, having been consulted on the means of remedying this, recom- mended that the pier should be extended, and that wet docks should be formed in the harbour. These works were undertaken forthwith, and the pier was completed in 1816 to the extent of 900 feet beyond the head of Mr Smeaton's pier, where it was finished with a round head. This, however, was destroyed by the sea in the following winter, but being rebuilt with a slope towards the sea, it has since stood without very material damage. A break- water, extending to the length of 800 feet, was also built on the south side, by which the mouth of the channel was narrowed, and the entrance protected from the south-east storms. Wharfs were built along the harbour on the south-west side of Futtie — the pier formerly built opposite Torrie was enlarged, and more lately the quay has been extended westward from the old quay-head, and by raising embankments on the Inches, a considerable range of quay- room has been obtained there, which is connected with the town by a swivel bridge opposite the foot of Marischal Street By means of all these improvements quay-room has been provided to the ex- tent of about 4000 feet, and a tide liarbour has been formed in which the depth of water at spring tides is about 1 1 feet at the west end, gradually increasing to about 15 feet, where it joins the course of the river, and the depth of water on the bar has been increased to about 1 9 feet. The wet docks planned by Mr Telford not having been execut- ed, a plan for completing the harbour, not very materially different from his, was lately recommended by Mr Walker, and a Bill found- ed on this plan was last session introduced into Parliament, but it was thrown out in committee, in consequence of the opposition made to it by many of the merchants and shipowners, to whom it appeared that it would have the effect of greatly curtailing the ex- tent of the tide harbour, without giving any adequate compensation ABERDEEN. E C6 ABERDEENSHIUE. by the increase of accommodation, which it was proposed to pro- vide in the docks, — while ;i very serious addition would be made to the debt by which the harbour funds are already encumbered. Shippinff, Ship-huilding^ and Trade, — Ship-building is carried on in Aberdeen by several firms with considerable spirit, as the subjoined table of the vessels and tonnage built here for the last seven years will evince : 1832. 1633. 1834. 1835. 1830. 1837. 1H38. Vessels, 2 6 8 8 14 17 23 Tonnage, 198 1100 1329 1573 1916 3347 4058 Within the last year, the building of iron vessels has been com- menced in this port, and a very large one of this description is now nearly ready for being launched. In 1836, the harbour trustees furnished a patent slip for hauling up vessels requiring repair. The cost of this was L. 8337. It has been extensively employed, and the sums paid for its use will abundantly compensate for the expense incurred in procuring it, while great facility is thus given to the repair of vessels. The number of vessels and the amount of their tonnage, regis- tered as belonging to the port of Aberdeen for the last seven years is as follows : 1832. ]833. 1834. ias5. 1836. 1837. 1838. Vessels, 191 178 173 175 172 177 185 Tonnage, 28096 26489 26063 27274 26635 29060 31063 The introduction of steam navigation at Aberdeen took place in 1821, when the Velocity of 256 tons burthen, and furnished with two engines of 110 horses' power, began to ply between Aber- deen and I^ith. Another vessel was soon after put into the same trade, and more recently, other two with more powerful engines were added, and these now run during the greater part of the year between Leith and Aberdeen, making also stated voyages to Ler- wick and Kirkwall, and to Wick and Inverness. The amount of steam power at present employed in this trade is 640 horses' power, and the tonnage of the vessels is 1360 tons. In 1827, a steamer of larger size than any of these, the Queen of Scotland, of 550 tons, began to ply between Lon- don and Aberdeen, and soon after, another was put into the same trade. A third, still larger, was more recently added, and an opposition having been attempted by another company, a junction was soon after effected, in consequence of which a fourth steamer was employed. These vessels sail weekly from Aberdeen and London ; but it is cause of regret to many that the AHERDEEN. 67 time fixed on for their sailing is the evening tide of Saturday, by which means they are necessarily at sea on the Sabbath ; and wheb any detention occurs from weather or other causes, they most improperly leave the port on the Sabbath day. Attempts have been made to put an end to this abuse, but they have not as yet been successful. The amount of steam j)ower in the vessels in this trade is 860 horses' power, and their tonnage is 2410 tons. One of these vessels makes weekly voyages to Hull. There is an inconvenience attending the use of these large vessels, that, from their draught of water, they are unable to enter or leave the harbour, except at the top of the tide ; and sometimes when the tide is small, detention takes place from their not having sufficient water to float them if they are heavily laden, especially as there is a bank formed where the basin of the harbour joins the channel of the Dee, which it has not as yet been found practicable com- pletely to remove, and on which they sometimes get aground ; so that, on the whole, it seems preferable, at least in the present state of the harbour, to employ vessels of a smaller draught of water. Besides these, there are two steamers which sail between Dun- dee and Aberdeen, and one between Aberdeen and Peterhead during the summer season. A small tug steamer is employed for hauling ships into the harbour, and taking them out when required. Several steamers have been built and wholly fitted up at Aber- deen ; and the making of marine steam-engines is carried on by two firms to a considerable extent. The extent of the shipping trade of Aberdeen may be, in some* degree, estimated by the following table drawn up for the last five years by Mr Riddell, the clerk of the Shore Dues* Office, which exhibits a view of the shipping actually arriving at the port in the course of each year, terminating on the 1st July : Tonnage. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. Venels belonging to Aberdeen, 156,835 165,496 175,652 168810* 173.802 Belonging to other British ports, 25.271 28,947 24,273 23,936* 30.846 Foreign tcsmIs, . . 1888 1732 2118 2721 4244 Totol, . . 183,994 196,175 202,043 195,467 208,8£2 The following tables, also drawn up by the care of Mr Riddell, show the principal articles of import and export during the same period of five years, from the 1st July 1833 : * This diminution of tonnage is only apparent, the difTerence being occasioned \j m late aheration in the mode of measurement. 68 ABEKDEENSHlltK. Lime. Tons Imports. 1834. 61,060 14,084 10,739 1276 2679 330 1155 2521 1567 1835. 68,627 17,391 13,964 1072 3451 400 1283 2488 1472 1836. 74,154 18,824 12.735 1224 3350 537 1483 2928 1753 1837. 93,349 13,749 13,836 1157 4014 492 1514 2500 1710 2378 12 198 3828 3660 20,398 6397 1837. 19,880 707 46,219 6947 4266 5234 7388 3510 32,055 16,979 20,986 7001 53 807 2358 168 183a 93,023 15,681 12,081 Cotton. 1320 Flax. 3460 Hemp, Wool. 435 1657 Iron. ... 4154 Salt. 1294 Bones. . . 3919 Whalebone, While blubber. Wood i American, ^*^**' { East country, Wheat, Flour, Granite, IVIeal, , . Tuns Loads 64 1125 1919 1500 10,516 6596 EXFOUTS. 1834. 24,158 687 75,512 9426 4597 10,372 8691 2924 31,840 14,222 17,115 2405 29 940 1001 57 50 876 2445 1444 14,713 9623 1835. 22,494 298 92,006 8805 4840 7981 8183 3192 30,497 15,436 17,024 3125 29 630 1214 154 12 240 3358 2887 15.635 8263 1836. 17,338 a36 69,239 9261 6006 7757 8120 3970 30,482 16.336 20043 8048 84 1407 3034 149 5 115 3792 3684 Qrs. Sacks Tons 7202 8219 1838. 27,292 328 Oats and bear, Butter, Poik, Qrs. Cwts. 17.057 7204 4078 Salmon, E^gs, Porter. B. B. 4270 6395 2415 Ilax goods, Cotton do. Woollen do. • 32,716 15,778 24,422 5834 97 Cattle, Horses. No. Sheep and lambs. Pigs, Dogs, 1045 1562 1K3 Canal. — In 1793, the formation of a navigable canal for barges, to connect the harbour of Aberdeen with the river Don at Inverury, was projected, and in 1796 an Act of Parliament was obtained, by which the projectors were empowered to raise by the sale of shares L. 20,000 for this purpose. Of this sum only L. 1 7,700 was raised, and it was found necessary to apply for another act, which was obtained in 1801, empowering the proprietors to raise L. 20,000 additional by the creation of new shares. Only L. 10,000 of this was obtained, but not long after other L. 10,000 was raised by mortgage, and the canal was opened in 1807. Its length is a little more than 18 miles, its average breadth is about 25 feet at the surface of the water, and the depth is 3 feet 9 inches. It has 17 locks, one of which is 10 feet in height, 15 are 8 feet each, and one is 3 feet. The line chosen for it is not, in the opinion of some, the most advantageous that might have been obtained, as it throws the greater number of the locks to the lower end, within threeor four miles of Aberdeen, in consequence of ABERDEEN. GO which the delay and expense of short carriages are rendered con- siderably greater than they would have been otherwise, and the inducement to the transport, for example, of stones from the large granite quarries in the neighbourhood of the town, is much lessen- ed. Nevertheless, the trade on it has not been inconsiderable, though hitherto not sufficient to pay off the mortgage debt, and therefore, as yet, altogether unproductive to the holders of either the new or the original shares. In 1832, the holders of the mortgage, being sensible of the great advantage which would accrue to the trade of the canal from its being connected by a tide-lock with the harbour, agreed to fore- go their dividends for a time, in order to permit this to be effected, and the tide-lock, whose height is 6 feet, was accordingly executed in 1834, at an expense of about L.1500. By this means, the canal barges can be loaded and discharged at the ship's side, and can enter the canal readily at half-tide ; by which, the intercourse on it has been greatly facilitated and the trade consequently increased. The dues charged on articles con- veyed by the canal are from ^d. to l^d. per ton per mile, accord- ing to the nature of the goods. The following tables shew the quantities of the principal ar- ticles transported by the canal for the last seven years : — I. Upwards. 1832. 183 Lime, Tons, Coals, ... Dung, Bark, Bones, 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. 2886 2829 3668 4684 4068 4554 3992 1888 2184 2144 2659 3199 3968 4759 102 287 330 \- 96 188 1642 670 95 74 112 108 106 58 .114 *•* •■• ft ■ • 278 498 635 1394 II. Downwards. 1832. 1833. ias4. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. 1869 2180 1072 1097 142 2832 1780 211 461 381 522 358 147 118 9981 17,652 36,430 33,285 32,635 30,222 21,544 18 33 129 57 149 260 464 146 117 ... 338 590 436 68 Stones, Tons. Slates, Oats & Dear, Qrs. Meal, Tons. Wheat, Qrs. ITie increase in the quantity of grain is to be in part ascribed to the introduction of covered barges, by which the cargo is effec- tually protected from rain on its passage. A Fly or passage boat was, at an early period, established on the canal, and for some years it was carried on with considerable suc- cess ; but the establishment of numerous coaches on the adjoin- ing turnpike road, presenting the advantage of quicker travelling, though at a higher rate, had the effect of diminishing the profits of the fly-boat very materially. With the view of obtaining a re- 70 ABEIIDEKNSHIRE. iiewal of the encouragement formerly given to it, an iron boat was lately procured, and the rate of going was increased from about four to eight or nine miles an hour. The experiment cannot be, by any means, said to have failed, but the effect has not hitherto been so favourable as might have been anticipated. Flux Manufacture. — The manufacture of flax is carried on to a considerable extent in Aberdeen by three firms, all of which carry on the several branches of spinning, bleaching, and the manufac^ ture of linen of every quality, from the coarsest floor-cloth and Osnaburghs, to the finest shirting, and one of the houses is exten- sively engaged in the manufacture of sewing thread. The aggregate power employed by them consists of steam to the extent of about 460 horses' power, and water (used in the mills on Don side, about two miles from Aberdeen,) to the extent of about 250 horses' power. The number of persons employed in these branches of manu* facture is about 7600, of whom nearly two-thirds work in the mills* and the remainder are employed at the bleachfields, or as out-door weavers. The amount of wages paid by these houses weekly is about L. 2600 or L. 2700, at rates varying from 2s. 6d. to Ss. to girls, and from 7s. to L. 1 to weavers. Cotton Manufacture. — This branch of manufacture is carried on at Aberdeen by four houses, all of which are employed as spinners, and one of them also in power-loom weaving. Two of these houses have their works on Don side, about three miles from Aberdeen. The other two are in town. The ag- gregate of power employed by these firms is about 600 horses' power, of which 260 are obtained by water power, the rest being steam.* The number of hands employed in this branch is about 2000 or 2200, and the weekly amount of wages paid is from L. 700 to L. 800. Woollen Manufacture. — There are in Aberdeen and the neigh* bourhood two large houses engaged in the woollen trade, and four or five small ones. Tliey are principally occupied in making of worsted carpets and hosiery. One of them is also employed in the manufacture of broad cloth. * During the suiDmer season, there is often a deficiency of water in the river, and several steam-engines have been put up for the purpose of meeting this exigency. This apph'cs also to the flax-mills on the Don. ABERDEEN. 71 The extent of the power used by them is about 320 horses' power, of which 150 are obtained by water, the rest being steano. From 2200 to 2500 persons are in the employ of these houses, and the weekly amount of wages paid is about L. 1 000. Stone Trade, — The trade of Aberdeen in stones is very consi- derable, as will be seen from the table of exports. The principal part of this trade is in paving stones sent to London ; but there have also been, at various times, large quantities of building stones exported ; and some of the bridges over the Thames are in great part built of, or faced with, Aberdeen granite. Some of the largest blocks that have been exported, were those sent, not many years since, to the docks j t Sheerness. The extreme beauty of the granite when polished is well known ; but its very great hardness formed an almost insuperable bar to its general introduction, while the work of polishing it was carried on only by manual labour Within these few years, however, Mr Alexander Macdonald has contrived, by several very ingenious adaptations of machinery to this purpose, and by some very considerable improvements in the tools used, to effect a very great reduction in the expense of the process, insomuch that ornamental articles of polished granite, such as slabs, chimney pieces, pedestals, and vases may now be procured from his manufactory here, for about one-third of the price which formerly they cost Iron Manufacture, — The quantity of iron annually worked in Aberdeen is very considerable, and it is daily increasing, in con- sequence of the introduction of new branches of the manufacture, or of the extension of those formerly existing in the place. It is not many years since the making of spinning machinery, and of steam-engines, was altogether unknown in the town, and there are now eight or ten machine-makers, of whom five are engaged in the making of steam-engines; and three, to a CQnsiderable extent, make both land and marine engines. Iron ship-building, too, has been introduced here within the last two years, and there is at present a vessel of this description on the stocks, of the burden of 550 tons by measurement, being, it is believed, the largest sailing ves- sel that has yet been constructed of iron. There are in Aberdeen and its immediate vicinitv eiorht founde- ries, at most of which the heaviest castings can be executed. One of the firms engaged in this trade has a forge hammer and a rol- ling mill ; and there are three establishments at which the hea- viest anchor-work is performed. There are also two houses eu- 72 ABERDEENSHIRE. gaged to a considerable extent in chain-making; and five or six of the firms are employed in boiler-making. The number of men employed in this trade may be about 1000. It is difficult to state the average rate of wages with any degree of confidence ; perhaps it may be from 18s. to L. 1, 5s. weekly ; and the annual amount of wages paid is probably not under L. 60,000. Paper-making. — The first paper-mill in this neighbourhood was erected at Peterculter about the year 1770. Others were sub- sequently set agoing in other situations ; and there are now four in the vicinity of Aberdeen, viz. at Peterculter, belonging to Messrs Arbuthnot and M'Combie ; at Mugiemoss, Charles Da- vidson and Sons ; at Waterton, Thomas Jaffray ; and at Stony- wood, Messrs Alexander Pirie and Sons. Of these, the three first make only coarse paper ; the last makes writing and printing papers. The power employed to drive these mills is altogether by water, and cannot be reckoned at less than 250 horses' power, and the number of persons directly occupied in the manufacture may be from 300 to 40^0. Within the last five years, the quantity manu- factured has been doubled, and there is a prospect of a still increas- ing production. The material for the coarse papers (consisting of rags, ropes, and mill waste,) is mostly collected in this and the neighbouring counties. For the finer kinds the chief supply is from abroad, though considerable quantities of rags are collected here. By the last returns of the Excise from which we can derive local information, the duty upon the paper manufactured in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen was, for the year ending 5th January 1835, 1st Class paper, paying at that time a duty of Sd. per lb., 1,014,768 lbs. L. 12,684 12 2d Class paper, paying a duty of l^d. per lb. 245,537 lbs., 1534 12 1^ L. 14,219" 4 !( We have no certain ground to go upon in regard to the quan- tity produced last year ; but it is probable that the duty paid at the equalized rate of l^d. per lb. amounted to nearly, if not fully, L. 12,000. Rope and Twine-making. — There are in Aberdeen eight rope- making works of considerable extent, besides several small ones ; and of these, three are chiefly employed in the manufacture of cordage for ships, the others being principally engaged in rope* ABERDEE^^ 73 making for agricultural and general purposes, and in the making of twines for fishing and for manufacturers. The number of men and boys employed in this branch of manufacture is rather above than under 200. It is not easy to give any statement of the amount of wages paid, as some of the manufacturers hire their men by the piece, and others do not; but it cannot probably be much under JL 5000 annually. Comb-making. — This branch of industry was introduced into Aberdeen as far back as 1788, but it was carried on in a very small way only till 1830, when the tirm of Stewart, Rowell, and Co. commenced on a larger scale than has been done in any other part of Scotland, and they were the first in Scotland to apply steam- power to this department. The number of workmen employed by this firm is at present 245, the weekly apiount of wages paid by them about L. 90, and the number of combs of all kinds finished in this manufactory amounts to about 43,200 weekly, which, in consequence of the im- provements recently introduced in the methods of manufacture, can be sold now at a price not more than one-sixth of what they cost nine years ago. Fisheries. — It is probable that there have been fishers settled at the mouth of the Deo, both in Futtie and at Torrie, (on the south side) ever since Aberdeen became a town of any noticeable mag- nitude. The fishers who now inhabit these villages are, like those along most of the east coast of Scotland, evidently of a race dis- tinct from the other inhabitants, and from their aspect, features, and other circumstances, it seems probable that they have come from the opposite coasts of Denmark and Sweden. They occupy a village consisting of two squares of houses, which were erected by the town some twenty years ago, at the south-east extremity of the parish, and immediately adjacent to the entrance of the harbour. Each house consists of a but and a ben, with oc- casionally a small apartment between. The magistrates designed to have made the houses of two stories, but the fishers refused to live up stairs, and they also refused to have any other than an earthen floor in their houses. In both of these, though there may have been some superstition and a good deal of prejudice, there was also some reason,-— for it would have been next to impossible for them to have kept a wooden floor clean, while an earthen one, if not clean, at any rate does not show the dirt so much, and it would have been very inconvenient for them to lug their long lines 74 ABEUDEENSHIRE. and their heavy baskets up stairs. On the whole, their houses are, generally speaking, as clean and comfortable as the nature of their occupation will admit of. From the circumstance of most of these fishers being employed as pilots, and from their immediate connection with the harbour, and constant intercourse with the inhabitants of Aberdeen, there is in them a greater degree of civilization than is observable in most of the other fishing communities. At the same time, their double employment as fishers and pilots is by no means favourable to (heir religious, moral, and domestic habits. The unavoidable want pf regularity in their hours, the general practice of giving allowances in drink for any particular service, and their custom of dividing the pilotage money among the boat's crews'gcnerally on Saturday evening, all tend to lead them to the public house, where sometimes a large portion of their earnings is spent. Yet drunkenness, though prevalent among them, is by no means universal, and the number of exceptions seems to be ihcreas* ing of late. A fisherman who is a pilot will earn as much as L. 1, 10s. or even L. 2 per week during summer, but not half so much during winter. On an average, however, they can make fully as much as any other labourers in the same class of society, and of this money the husband has the possession and command, while the wife re- tains possession of all the money arising from the sale of fish. It is not often that either party manages these gains to the best ad- vantage. The fishers are a hard-working people and extremely honest, and they deem it the greatest possible reproach to cast a doubt on their honesty, which they arc the more easily enabled to maintain unimpeachable, because all their bargains and transactions are for ready money. They seldom marry with persons not of their own community, except in a few instances where the daughters of fishers have mar- ried with seamen and ship-carpenters. This may arise not so much from any dislike to form connections out of their own craft, as from the fact that, on the one hand, a fisherman would find a woman of any other class wholly incapable of giving him any as- sistance in this occupation, and unable to perform the hard work devolving on the fisherwomen ; and, on the other hand, a fisher- woman, from the irregularity of her occupation, and want of leisure and opportunity to attend to her daughters, unless when they fol- ABERDEEN. 75 low her in her fishing employments, cannot educate them so as to be useful wives to persons of any other class. A free school was established some years ago by Mr John Da- vidson, goldsmith, exclusively for the white-fishers, and it has been the means of doing a great deal of good among them. It is taught on the plan of the sessional school, and its effects are manifest in the decided and progressive improvement of the manners and ha- bits of the fishers. The children who attend the school re-act on their parents, and, as it were, shame them out of their indifierence to useful knowledge and habits. The fishers are, generally speaking, a long-lived people and very healthy, and, notwithstanding the dangerous nature of their occupation, there are few accidents of serious consequence among them. Like most other fishermen, they have a good many superstitious ideas and practices, and they have implicit faith in many traditions, and in various omens. Thus they reckon it very offensive for any one to count a boat's crew, or a company of them returning from market, and it is not less so to tell how many fish they have caught. If a fisher be turned back when he is going out to fish, he will on no account go out that day, and is very much provoked. Often, too, things, which any one but they would esteem mere trifles, can- not be spoken of without interfering with some omen, whose influ- ence they would hold it sinful to doubt. It is at the same time to be noticed, that the fishers of Futtie have less superstitions than those that live in the fishing-villages along the coast, both to the north and south, where they live al- most entirely secluded from intercourse with the inland agricultu^ ral population. Hhale-Fisliing was first introduced into Aberdeen in the year 1753, and the success which attended the first attempts induced others to embark in the same trade, which, for a time, was very profitable. Accordingly, the number of ships from Aberdeen en- gaged in whale-fishing gradually increased, till, in 1820, there were fifteen, which, on an average, had about fifty hands each. The greatest tonnage of oil brought home by these vessels in one sea- son was in 1823, when fourteen vessels brought 1841 tons. Of late years, however, from various causes, such as the withdrawing of the Government bounty, the reduction of the duty on foreign seeds from which oil is made, the diminished demand for oil, of late, in cohsequence of the introduction of gas as a means of ob- 76 ABERDEENSHIRE. taining light, and the want of success in the fishery, several ves- sels having repeatedly come home clean, the trade has been, in a great measure, given up, and there are only two vessels at present engaged in it from this port Salmon^Fishing. — This branch of trade has been long carried on with considerable spirit, and generally with good succesS) at Aberdeen, and the rents of the fishings in the river Dee form an important item in the revenue of the town, and of several private proprietors. Of late, too, the fishing has been carried on to a considerable extent by stake-nets on the beach. At present, the number of men employed in salmon -fishing here may be about 200, and the annual amount of wages paid about L. 3000. In an average season, the quantity of fish caught may be reckoned at 20,000 salmon, averaging ten lbs. each, and 40,000 grilses of four pounds each, of which by far the greater part is pack- ed in ice, and shipped for the London market, a very small part only being put into tin cases for exportation. It is now about thirty years since the mode of using ice for preserving the salmon fresh was introduced in Aberdeen. Previous to that time, the fishers were under the necessity of boiling it and preserving it with vinQ-> gar, but this mode is now almost altogether disused. The average price obtained for the salmon and grilses sent to London is about 8d. per lb. Herring-Fisliing. — Until within the last few years, this branch of industry was not prosecuted to any extent in Aberdeen. The late Provost Blaikie used his endeavours to establish it, and, to a certain degree, these endeavours were successful. The number of boats employed in it has been annually increasing; and last year there were about 60 thus engaged during the season, and their success has hitherto been such as leaves no room for doubting, that this fishery will continue to be prosecuted, probably to a greater extent than it has hitherto been. Supply of Water. — After two ineffectual attempts in the course of the seventeenth century, measures were at last taken in 1706 for introducing a supply of spring water into the town, and at first a single well was suppHed in Castle Street ; but soon after, others were added in different parts of the town. The supply having be- come inadequate from the increased population, additional springs were taken in, andacistern, capable of holdings 1,000 gallons, erect- ed in Broad Street in i766. The water from these springs was of excellent quality, though that from the lower springs next the town ABERDEEN. 77 was more pure than what came from the upper and more distant springs ; but both the low level and the"smallness of the springs pre- vented the whole of the town being supplied from them. The average produce of the lower springs in ordinary seasons was about 75 gal- lons per minute, and of the upper springs about 55 ; but both were liable to considerable diminution in dry seasons. The demands of the city having increased with its population, and considerable in- convenience having been experienced on several occasions by the deficiency of the supply, it was resolved in 1830 to bring a supply of water into town from the river Dee, and for this purpose a steam- engine was erected at the north end of the bridge of Dee, about a mile and three-quarters distant The water is brought to this engine by a tunnel about a quarter of a mile long, which does not communicate directly with the river, but receives the water by fil- tration through a bed of sand. There are two single stroke en- gines used, each of fifty horses^ power, which are wrought alternate- ly for about twelve hours per day, and by these the water is forced into a cistern situated at the west end of Union Place, and elevated 130 feet above the engine, being placed at the height of 40 feet above the street, by which means sufficient elevation is obtained to permit the water to be distributed abundantly to all parts of the town. The size of this cistern is 50 feet by 30, with a depth of 9 feet, and it is capable of containing 84,375 gallons. The quan- tity of water raised by these engines in twenty-four hours is about 900,000 gallons, and it is distributed through the town to supply both the public wells and private service pipes to the inhabitants, through pipes, the aggregate length of which is nearly eleven miles and a-half. The number of public wells is at present 92, and there are 909 private service pipes. The expense of procuring and main- taining this supply is defrayed by an assessment of 9d. per pound on the rent of the houses; shops, warehouses, &c. being charged 4s. annually in place of this. These persons who wish to have a supply for their own use are charged additional 6d. per L. 1 of rent. The management of the supply of water is vested in the Com- missioners of Police, on whom falls also the care of lighting, pav- ing, cleaning, and watching the streets, and for these purposes (the expense of paving any street for the first time being borne by the proprietors of the houses in the street) a police assessment is le- vied, of 2s. per pound on the rent if above L. 3 and under L. 7, and 2s. 3d. if above this. The number of public lamps is 1 130, of which 996 in the principal streets are lighted with gas, the rest being oil lamps. TTne number of men employed in cleatvmg V\\ third at the end of three months on producing a certificate of his honesty and industry since dismissal, and the re- mainder after other six months on a like certificate being produced. The amount of the prisoners' earnings during the year from 1st September 1837 was L.409, being the largest sum, in proportion to the number of prisoners, realized in any prison in the kingdom during a-year. The hours of labour are in summer from 5 a. m. to 8 p. M., and in winter, from 6 a. m. to 8 p. m., with the neces- sary intervals for diet. The governor is empowered to punish for disobedience, idleness, &c. by withholding a part of the allowance of food, by confinement in a dark cell, by restricting the diet to bread and water, or by putting in irons ; but during the last year 3 ABERDEEN. 81 out of 281 prisoners, only 71 were punished in any way,— a small proportion, considering the character and dispositions of the in- mates. Every prisoner who can read is supplied with a Bible, and all are visited at least once a week by the chaplain, who exhorts, catechises, and prays, with each separately. Those who conduct themselves well are allowed to read the Scottish Christian Herald, Chambers's Edinburgh Journal, and the volumes of the Kildare Street Library. The teacher attends for three hours and a-half daily to give in- structions in reading, writing, and arithmetic, to the prisoners who require them, each in his own cell, and the-governor examines, and reports their progress monthly to the commissioners. The surgeon attends daily, but there is very little sickness in the establishment. Only four prisoners have died in the house since it was opened. Of these two were ill when committed, and lived only a few days ; one was liable to epilepsy, and was found dead in his cell in the morning; and the fourth was a woman about ninety years of age, who had passed the greater part of the last twenty years of her life in prison. The expenses of the es- tablishment are defrayed by an assessment on the heritors of the city and county, Tialf being borne by each. The amount collect- ed has been for some years L.900; of which about L. 600 are required for the annual expenses, the remainder being applied to the reduction of the debt, whose present amount is L. 4300. In consequence of the majority of the prisoners being conGned for short periods, little permanent improvement of their morals can be expected ; for that system of discipline must indeed be ad- mirable, which could in thirty or sixty days eradicate bad habits and implant good ones ; nevertheless, there can be no doubt, that the discipline of Bridewell has had a salutary effect on many of those who have been committed, in the first instance, for long pe- riods, as only a small proportion of these have returned a second time, and some of them are known to be now engaged in honest employment It is not possible to say to what extent the fear of this prison has operated on the criminal population of the district ; but it is worthy of remark that, although the general population is rapidly increasing, the number of criminals is apparently rather decreasing than otherwise, as will be seen by the following table of commit- ments for the last seven years : ABERDEEN. F S2 ABKRDEENSIIlltG. TotJ com- H^m. j^j , p j Under Abo»e mitments. mitments. 17. 17. From Sept. 1831 to Sept. la^ 288 1S4 189 99 53 235 . 1832 ... 1833, 221 105 128 93 29 192 1833 ... 1834, 217 75 142 75 39 178 1834 ... 1835, 247 97 168 79 49 196 1835 ... 1836, 275 120 172 103 56 219 183G ... ia37, 209 85 121 88 39 170 iaS7 ... ia%, 231 114 129 102 48 183 The following statement will give some idea of the state of edu* cation, &c. of the persons generally committed to the Bridewell : During the year from 1st January to 31st December 1838^ the number of individuals committed was 252 ; of which were recom- mitments, 32 ; making the number committed for the 6rst time^ 220. Of these 220, there were 42 who could not read, 76 could read with difficulty, and 102 could read easily ; 124 could not write, 82 could write a little, and 14 could write easily ; 83 attend- ed no place of worship, 103 attended church occasionally, and 34 had been in the habit of attending regularly. 67 were natives of the town of Aberdeen ; 40 of the county of Aberdeen ; 40 of the counties north of Aberdeen ; 48 of the counties south of Aberdeen ; 14 of England ; 9 of Ireland ; and 2 were foreigners. Of the whole 252 commitments, there were attributed to intoxi- cation, 131 ; idleness and bad company, 78; want, 10; uncertain, denied their guilt, &c. 33. Prison. — The old prison, which was situated in the tower under the steeple in Castle Street, was in every respect unsuited to its object, being neither properly ventilated, sufficiently capacious, nor secure. In 1829, the foundation of a new prison was laid im- mediately behind the Court-house, and it was first occupied in July 1831. It contains sixty cells and ten day-rooms, one of which is appropriated for debtors; the other nine have lately been converted into work-rooms. There are six yards within the pre- cincts of the prison, four of which are used by the male prisoners, and one by the females, the remaining one being connected with the debtors' room. The criminal prisoners are not permitted to hold any intercourse with each other, and they are kept apart as much as possible. They are all employed, tried as well as untried, in such works as pick- ing oakum, weaving, tailor-work, &c., and for the females knitting and sewing, and an account is kept of the produce of their labour, and their earnings are given to them on leaving the prison. They are allowed access to the yard one at a time, for about two hours each, daily. ABERDEEN. 83 A teacher attends in the prison daily from 10 a. m. to 1 p. m. and the chaplain visits five times in the week, exhorting, catechis- ing, and praying with each prisoner separately. The female pri* soners, who are under the care of a female assistant to the jailer, are also visited every lawful day, except Saturday, by the mem- bers of the ^* Ladies' Association for promoting the Reformation of Destitute Females." The diet of the prisoners is of the plainest kind, but wholesome and in suflScient quantity ; and the introduction of every kind of luxury into the prison is strictly prohibited. Untried prisoners are permitted to be visited by their relatives in the presence of the keeper of the prison, once a week, but after conviction this liberty is allowed only once a month. The expense of mamtaining the prisoners, and of keeping up the necessary establishment, as well as the repairs of the building, is defrayed out of the rogue money ; the city and county bearing each a share proportioned to the number of prisoners from each. The debtors are not subjected to the same restrictions as the criminal prisoners, being permitted the free use of the yard and day -room of their ward from 6 a. m. to 9 p. m. daily. The average number of prisoners during 1838 was about 57; the greatest number at one time being 86, and the smallest, 39. The gross expenses (including salaries, repairs, &c.) of the es- tablishment was, during the year 1836, L.670 ; 1837, L. 61 1 ; 1838, L. 901. No sufficient return has been obtained of the number of com- mitments, unless for the last year, when they were, males, 386 ; fe- males, 124 : total, 509. By a return made for one year previous to August 1838, it appears that there were in prison during that period, Males under 17 years of age* 79 Females under 17, 16 above . . 231 above • 95 "iio TIT The state of education among these was found to be as folh)ws : Males. Females. Could not read, 29 . . 10 Could read a little, .253 . 90 Could read easily, . 28 . 11 8lF 111 Males. Females. Could not write, . 75 . 59 Could write with difficulty, 209 42 Could write easily, . 26 . 10 ^ uT 84 AKKHDEICNSIllRE. Medical Society. — In the year 1789, twelve young men, who were engaged in the study of medicine in Aberdeen, formed them- selves into a society for their mutual improvement, by meeting to discuss questions connected with medical science. Of these only four are now alive, viz. Sir James M*Grigor, BarU, the present ac- tive and enlightened Director-Generalof the Medical Department of the Army ; Dr John Grant, who has been for some years resi- dent at Forres ; Dr Colin Allan, at present settled in Nova Scotia ; and Dr James Moir, who has been long established as a practi- tioner in Aberdeen. Their meetings were, for a good many years, held in one of the class-rooms of Marischal College, and subsequently in apartments hired for the purpose ; and the additions made to their numbers by the accession of new members, both increased the usefulness of the society and testified the advantages that were derived from the discussions and examinations held at their meetings. In 1791, the commencement was made of a library devoted to medical litera- ture, and by donations from the members and their friends, as well as by the purchase from time to time of such works as their funds enabled them to procure, the collection gradually increased, so that it became necessary, in order to protect their books, as well as that they might have convenient apartments to hold their meetings in, to endeavour to obtain the means of erecting a house for the pur- poses of the society. A subscription for this purpose was accord- ingly commenced in 1809, and by the unremitted exertions of Sir James M'Grigor, very considerable additions were made to this fund during the subsequent years. It was not, however, till 1818 that the society found themselves in a condition to undertake the work of erecting the Medical Hall in King Street, which was com- pleted in 1820, and has been since that time occupied by the meet- ings of the society, and the library and museum belonging to it. When the society, during the collection of this fund, began to acquire property to a considerable amount, it was deemed requisite to provide for its security by vesting it in trustees, and a deed was accordingly drawn up in 1815, by which the Principal and Profes- sors of Marischal College were appointed to this office, and the con- stitution of the society, both at that time and subsequently, under- went certain alterations, which change of circumstances seemed to render necessary. It embraces now two classes of members9^ the one consisting of practitioners, mostly resident in or near Aber- deen, who meet once a month for the commuaicatitn of profes* ABERDEEN. 86 sional information — and the other consisting of students of medi- cine, who hold weekly meetings for mutual examination and the discussion of medical questions. The number on the roll of the ordinary members is at present 44, and the number of junior members is 10.* There are, besides, a few honorary members — distinguished men, foreigners and others, principally, though not exclusively, of the medical profession. The number of volumes in the society's library, to which the members have every facility of access, is about 3000, and there was formed, a few years ago, a collection of valuable works of refe- rence, &c. which the members may consult at the society's hall, but which are not permitted to be lent out. A regulation has lately been introduced by which the library has been rendered accessible, under certain restrictions, to students not attending the meetings of the society. The society's museum is not as yet of any great extent, but it contains some valuable anatomical and morbid preparations, as well as a good many specimens in various departments of natural history. Medical Classes. — Besides the medical lectures instituted within the last twenty years in connection with the universities, (the ac- count of which is omitted here as being more properly to be taken in along with the account of these bodies,) there have been others lately set on foot by various individuals desirous of advancing the cause of medical education in Aberdeen. These have been at- tended with a degi'ee of success probably as great as their pro- jectors anticipated, though, of course, the limited number of stu dents at Aberdeen has been a bar to any splendid success on the part of either them or the university lecturers. The following are the branches in which courses unconnected with the universities were delivered last season : — Anatomy by . Mr Moir.f Surgery, . . Do. * At the time when the society was iastituted, and for many years after, there were no medical classes in Aberdeen, and the Medical Society furnished almost the only means by which the students could with advantage prosecute their studies, by adopting a system of mutual instruction. Of late years, in consequence of the establishment of a regular medical school in Aberdeen, the opportunities of the students have been very much increased, and their mode of study materially altered, so that in fact the meetings of the society which constituted at one time its principal advantage have now come to be felt rather as a burden and an encroachment on their other occupa- tions, and this will account for the very small number of students at present on the roll of the junior class. f Mr Moir has been recently appointed Lecturer on Anatomy and Surgery to King*s College. 8G AUEKDEENSHIRE. Midwifery. . Mr Robertson. Instructions to Women, Mr Jamieson.* Medical Jurisprudence, Dr Ogston.^ Chembtry, . . Mr Shier.J: Botany, . Dr Knight. Do. . Mr Dickie.} Infirmary. — Among the institutions for the relief of the sick poor, the first and most important is the Infirmary, which was establish* ed by a subscription begun in the year 1739, in consequence of a proposal to that effect made by the magistrates, who granted a sum of about L. .*]6 annually towards its support, and also gave a plot of ground for its site. The plan adopted was one which ad- mitted of being executed in parts, and the central portion, capable of accommodating 40 patients, was erected in 1 740-41, atan expense of L. 584. The funds subscribed being exhausted in the building, " the directors were .obliged, from the very first, to borrow money for furnishing the house, and fitting up the apartments properly for the reception of patients." || In the year 174G, the patients were displaced, and the Infirmary was filled during the greater part of the year with sick and wounded soldiers belonging to the army un- der the command of the Duke of Cumberland. This interruption to the charity having ceased, and the number of applicants for re- ception continually increasing, funds were gradually provided by the donations of various individuals, collections in the neighbour- ing parishes, and bequests, and in the year 1753, it was deter- mined to build the east wing of the house, which was done at an expense of L. 495, and by this means room was obtained for 16 additional patients, and various other accommodations; and in 1760, the west wing, capable of receiving 32 patients, was added, at an expense of L. 477. No further addition of much conse- quence was made until the year 1820, when two new wards, ca- pable of accommodating 22 cases, were added, the cost of which was L. 583, for the reception of fever patients, which, of course, permitted the wards previously used as fever wards, to be added to the apartments destined for the reception of ordinary cases. But, in 1833, the managers finding a necessity for increased ac- * Mr Jamieson has recently received the appointncent of Lecturer on Midwiferr to Marischal College. ■f The appointment of Lecturer on Medical Jurisprudence to Marischal College has been lately confi-rred on Dr Ogston. X Mr Shier*8 chemical lectures have been discontinued, in consequence of his behitf appointed, by the Senatus of Marischal College, assistant to Dr Davidson, the Pro- fessor of Natural History. § Mr Dickie has been appointed Lecturer on Botany to King*s College. i Account of the Rise and Pi ogreM} of the Infirmary at Aberdeen, published 17G61 ABEllDEEN. 87 commodations, both for fevers and other complaints, resolved on erecting a new building on an enlarged scale, and with the various improvements in its construction, which have been suggested by experience and the judgment of those conversant with the requi- sites of hospitals ; and in the course of the next year, the west wing of the new house was erected, at an expense of L. 5300. Sixty beds were thus obtained for the reception of fever cases. In pursuance of the plan, a contract was entered into in the latter part of the year 1835 for the completion of the building, at an expense of L. 8500. The principal part of this erection is now finished, and has been occupied for several months. The arrangements cannot be completely carried out until certain buildings be erected in the rear of the house, on the site of the old building; but when this is accomplished, the whole number of patients that may be received into the house will be 210. The wards are of large size, lofty and well aired, in number twenty, with eleven smaller apart- ments for the reception of cases requiring to be treated separately, and with every convenience that is to be found in the most ap- proved hospitals in the island. When, by the liberality of the public, and by means of nume- rous donations and bequests, the managers of the Infirmary found themselves not merely possessed of the funds necessary for carry- ing on the institution from year to year, but able to accumulate a surplus to meet future exigencies; it became of importance that this property should be secured by giving a permanent character to the body in which it was vested. Accordingly, in 17735 a Crown charter was obtained, by which certain of the magistrates, the Professor of Medicine in Marischal College, and the Modera- tor of the Synod of Aberdeen, (all for the time being,) together with individual donors to the extent of L. 50, and persons named by those bequeathing a like sum, were appoitited to be the direc- tors, to whom were added, as annual directors, donors to the ex- tent of L. 5, and fourteen persons to be chosen out of the various bodies and classes of inhabitants in Aberdeen, according to a scheme laid down in the charter. The details of'the management of this institution are, in accord- ance with a resolution of date 28th November 1821, entrusted to a committee of sixteen chosen annually, which divides itself into four sub-committees, each of which takes the duties for three months in rotation. These sub-committees hold weekly meetings, and re- port monthly to the committee, whose proceedings aie laid before the general body of managers at their quarterly meetings. Spe- Expen- Out- Students Income. diture. Patients. Cures. Deaths. patients. eutering. L.2487 L.1986 1391 1019 82 1188 . 77 2449 1909 1556 1185 87 1250 73 2549 1945 1409 1024 86 1076 76 2446 1955 1287 893 77 1200 84 2231 1914 1307 1056 98 1245 72 2399 2436 1785 1433 95 1175 23 2220 2469 1670 1372 166 970 19 88 ABERDEENSHIRE. cial meetings of the managers are also held whenever any occa- sion renders them necessary. The subjoined table exhibits the principal particulars of interest relating to this institution for the last seven years : — Years. 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836, ia37, 1838, The medical officers of the InGrmary are 5 in number, viz. 2 physicians, 2 surgeons, and a house-surgeon, who is resident. There is also an apothecary employed to compound the medicines prescribed, and, since the removal of the establishment into the new house, two wards have been appropriated to the reception of ophthalmic cases, and placed under the charge of the surgeon at- tached to an eye institution in town. By a recent resolution of the managers, one of the physicians and one of the surgeons are appointed to deliver courses of lec- tures on Clinical Medicine and Surgery to the students attending the hospital, and from the number of cases annually treated in the institution, it has become of much importance, as an auxiliary, to the school of medicine lately established here by the authority of the Universities, and by the exertions of several private indivi- duals. The number of students frequenting the wards of the Aberdeen Infirmary has for many years been considerable, and as a certificate of attendance on its practice is received by the various public boards connected with the service of the country, there is every probability, that, while the opportunities and advantages pre- sented to students bv Aberdeen remain undiminished, there will be no material or permanent diminution in the number of students. During the last two years a considerable falling off has been expe- rienced, but neither is Aberdeen the only medical school where this has taken place, nor is the medical profession the only one in which the number of entrants has been of late considerably di- minished. . It is shown by the table, that, during the last year, the number of out-patients has been considerably diminished ; and there is a probability that, in future years, it will be still less, — an arrange* ment having been, in the course of the last year, entered info by the managers of the Infirmary, who had become possessed, as trustees, of a fund left by the late Mr Burnett of Dens» for << the ABERDEEN. 89 Bupply of medicines and medical attendance to such of the sick poor of Aberdeen and the suburbs thereof as are not fit objects to be received into the Infirmary." It was agreed that this money should be paid over to the funds of the General Dispensary, on condition of that institution affording the necessary attendance and medicines to those persons belonging to the town a d suburbs who used to be supplied as out-patients at the Infirmary. Those persons who reside in the country are still received and attended, as formerly, as out-patients. Dispensaries, — The practice of giving advice and medicines at the Infirmary to persons who could not be received into the house necessarily began almost from the very commencement of that in- stitution, and it was probably not very long after, that persons be- gan to be received as out-patients who had no wish to be admit- ted. No separate account, however, of these cases appears to have been kept until the year 1764, when the number of out-patients was 1332, and from that time they went on increasing, and thus en- tailing a heavy additional duty on the medical attendants, and causing a considerable expense to the house. In 1781', in consequence of a memorial presented to the ma- nagers of the Infirmary, they resolved to institute a Dispensary in connection with the Infirmary, — (at first as an experiment for one year, but afterwards they continued it by an annual vote,) — a part of the expense being borne by the Infirmary, and the rest de- frayed by subscriptions. This source of income having declined, however, the new institution became more burdensome to the In- firmary, and it was deemed necessary to take steps for reviving the interest of the public in the Dispensary by making collections at churches, &c , and, at the same time, to withdraw the aid which it had hitherto received from the funds of the Infirmary. In 1788, the managers of the Infirmary agreed to defray the expense of the medicines used in the Dispensary, provided the sum necessary to meet the salary of the physician were raised by subscription ; but two years after, they again deemed it necessary to disunite the Dis- pensary from the Infirmary altogether. Subsequently to this time, as the population of the town increased, other institutions, with the same benevolent design of providing advice and medicines for the sick poor at their own houses, were successively established, to the number of five, — three of which embraced the city generally, while the other twor were chiefly intended for the districts of Fut- tie and Gilcomston. In I8'23, these five were incorporated into one, caWed l\ve O^- 90 ABEUDBENSHIUE. Deral Dispensary ; the five medical men previously attending con- tinued to officiate, and, in fact, the only changes consisted in the establishment of a single depot of medicines, the election of a single set of managers, and the allotment of the town and suburbs into five districts, of which one was assigned to each of the medi- cal attendants ; lately a sixth medical attendant has been added, and a district has been assigned to him by a new division of the town. For several years, there was a midwife attached to each district, to whom was assigned the care of all ordinary cases, (for which a small allowance was made according to the number of cases,) the medical attendants giving their assistance when cases of difficulty occurred ; but in 1834, the low state of the funds compelled the managers to discontinue the allowance, and since that time the medical attendants have taken charge of all the midwifery cases applying at the institution, which, however, have been of late com* paratively few. In 1831, the small-pox being very prevalent in Aberdeen, it appeared to the medical attendants of the dispensary, that in vi- siting among the poor, they possessed peculiar facilities for en- couraging among them the practice of vaccinating their children, which was too generally neglected. It was therefore resolved to give attendance weekly at the dispensary for the purpose of vac- cinating children. Mr John Burnett had by his will, dated 1783, bequeathed a sum of money to be applied for the prevention of small-pox, and on the promulgation of Dr Jennvr's discovery, this sum was ap- propriated to defray the expense of an institution for vaccination. For a good many years, the numbers who were beneBted by this institution were considerable, but in consequence partly of the in- creasing prevalence of the custom of midwives vaccinating the children at whose birth they had assisted, and partly of the ne- gligence of parents to avail themselves of the means of avoiding a disease whose ravages were become much less formidable than they had formerly b€on, the Vaccine Institution declined very much, so that at the time when the medical attendants of the (general Dispensary began to vaccinate, the office of the Vac- cinator had become little better than a sinecure, and medical men often experienced great inconvenience from the inadequate supply of lymph that could be obtained at the Vaccine Institution. These circumstances, and the success which had attended the attempt to ABERDEEN. 91 induce parents to bring their children for vaccination to the Dis- pensary, led to a proposftl to incorporate the two institutions to- gether, and this was accordingly done in 1837, by the appoint- ment of the Vaccinator as one of the medical attendants of the Dispensary, having charge of a district of the town in addition to his duties as Vaccinator. The number of children vaccinated at the institution previous to its junction with the General Dispen- sary was 6543. The only permanent income which the General Dispensary possesses, except the annual income arising from Mr Burnett's bequest (which continues to be received by the Vaccinator as his salary,) is the interest of a bequest of L. 400 by the late Mr J. Cushnie, which was left in 1793 to the two Dispensaries at that time existing in Aberdeen. Excepting this, the whole support of the institution rests on voluntary subscriptions, and an occasional collection at some of the churches. Subsequently to the esta- blishment of the General Dispensary, two others have been set on foot in Aberdeen. One in the lower part of the town, whose ob- ject is principally to provide speedy assistance in the numerous accidents which happen oii board the ships and in the various works about the harbour, and the other in the western part of the town, and altogether beyond the limits of the parish. The ex- penses of both of these are borne entirely by voluntary contribu- tions, and they amount together to about L.60 annually. The subjoined table shows the income, expenditure, and num- ber of patients treated by all the institutions of this sort in town for the last seven years. Years. 1832, 1833, ia34, 1836, 1837, 1838, Lunatic Asylum. — Connected with the Infirmary of Aberdeen, in so far as it is under the management of the same body of di- rectors, is the asylum for the reception of lunatics — an institution which was begun in the year 1799. Previous to that time there was no attention paid to the comforts of this unfortunate class in Aberdeen, and but very little provision made for their safety ; the only accommodations provided being a few miserable cells on the * Subsetiucnt to this date, the midwifery cases of the General Dwpcns&T"^ atu \\\- eluded in the general report. Expen. Mid- Vacci- Income. diture. Patients. Cure by establishing a paper whose characteristic should rather be its Christian principle, than its political partisanship. In this attempt. ABERDEEN. 101 however, they were unsuccessful, and the paper is accordingly merely a Conseryative journal, which in Church politics favours tlie moderate party. Its weekly circulation is about 900. At first it was published on Saturday, but, in consequence of recent changes in the time of arrival of the mails, it has for some months past been published on Friday morning in town, a second edition being publish- ed in the evening for country circulation, embracing the intelligence that used formerly to be brought by the mail of Saturday morning. Public Libraries. — Besides the libraries belonging to the Uni- versity, the School of Divinity, the Medical Society, the Society of Advocates, and the Mechanics' Institution, there are several subscription libraries in Aberdeen, the principal of which are those belonging to Messrs A. Brown and Co., D. Wylie and Son, and W. Russell. The number of volumes contained in these libraries may be about 10,000 or 12,000; they are chiefly in the lighter depart- ments of literature, but there are many also of more permanent interest, and of a more important character. The terms of subscription vary from 15s. to L.I, lis. 6d. per annum, according to the number of volumes borrowed at a time, and, generally speaking, these libraries are tolerably well supplied with the new publications, at least with those by authors whose reputation is already establbhed : in regard to works of less ge- neral interest, either as respects their subject, or the name of their author, it cannot be supposed that the proprietors of sucl^jibraries should be desirous of accumulating them on their shelves ; and, indeed, there is often great difficulty in getting a sight of them in any other way than by purchasing them, for the booksellers in Aberdeen do not often choose to incur the risk of ordering books that are not already in some degree regarded as standard works, unless in consequence of receiving an order for them from ah in- tending purchaser. Markets. — There is a weekly market on Thursdays for meal, and on Fridays for grain, butcher-meat, and other provisions. Within the last few years several butchers' shops have been opened in diflferent parts of the town, where a supply of meat may be ob- tained on any day of the week. There is a market of fish daily, unless in tempestuous weather ; and a supply of cured fish, including the well known ^^ Findon haddocks," may be had daily. A market for the sale of linen is held in the Green on the last 1 02 ABERDEENSHIRE. Wednesday of April, and a wool market is held there in the last week of June, and the first two weeks of July, on Thursday and Friday. The timber-market, for the sale of tubs and other wooden ar- ticles, is held in the Castle Street on the last Wednesday in August The feeing-market for the hiring of farm-servants is held in the vicinity of the meal-market at Aberdeen, on the second Friday of May and November. Besides these markets held in Aberdeen, there are several mar- kets for horses and cattle, held in the close vicinity of the town, as follows : 1. At bridge of Don, on the first Tuesday of each month ; 2. at Mannofield, on the Dee side road, on the second Monday of each month ; 3. at Ruthrieston, near the Bridge of Dee, on the third Monday of each month ; 4. at Old Aberdeen) on the last Thursday of April, and on the Wednesday after the last Tuesday of October. Inns and Alehouses. — There are in Aberdeen no less than IdS inn-keepers and vintners, including six principal inns, viz. the Royal Hotel, the Union Hotel, and the Aberdeen Hotel in Union Street, the Lemon Tree, in the Huxter Row, Cruickshanks' Inn, in the School-hill, and Macdonald's Temperance Hotel in Queen Street. Pawnbrokers. — It is between twenty and thirty years since this lucrative but not commendable occupation was first introduced in- to Aberdeen, and there are now six of them established and in full occupation. The capital invested in this trade may be about L. 10,000, which is generally understood to be turned five times in the course of a year. About nine- tenths of the articles pledged are redeemed within the legal period, and, unquestionably, much occasional relief is afforded in seasons of temporary distress by their assistance, though, at the same time, it is to be feared that the greater part of their trade arises from the improvident and the dissipated. Streets. — Less than half a century ago, the only approaches to Aberdeen were, from the south and west by the Windmillbrae and the Green, and from the north by the Gallowgate, and the streets in general were inconvenient, from their narrowness and the badness of the pavement, which consisted mostly of irregular causeway or round stones. About the end of the last century, a street was opened from Broad Street to North Street, which fa- ciUtated the entrance from the north, as North Street runs along ' ABERDEEN. 103 the foot of the Port Hill, over which the Gallowgate passes. Soon after, Marischal Street was opened from Castle Street to the Quay, and it was the first street in Aberdeen that was pav- ed with dressed stones; but its steepness renders it inconve- nient. About the beginning of this century, a turnpike road having been made to Inverury, a new line of approach to the town was obtained, by opening George Street, through the middle of what had in former times been a loch or pool of stagnant water. But the grand improvement of Aberdeen in this respect was not effected until several years later, when a new approach was made from the south by the opening of Union Street, and from the nortVi by means of King Street, both of which are spacious streets, which pass right into the middle of the town, both opening into the Castle Street And it cannot be looked on as the least of the benefits which Aberdeen derived from the opening of these streets, that, in order to their formation, it was necessary to remove a considerable number of houses, which were huddled together in a manner that renders it difficult to conceive how the town could be ever free from pestilential disorders. In order to avoid the inconvenience and danger of the steep descent of the Windmill Brae, and the equally steep ascent of the Shiprow or Nether Kirk- gate, the hollow through which the Denburn flows was spanned by a magnificent bridge of three arches, one of which has a span of 132 feet, while the others (which are concealed by being built over) are of 50 feet each. Union Street, which is carried along this bridge, is also carried over two of the old streets of the town, viz. the Correction Wynd and Putachy side, * and by the opening of St Nicholas Street, which connects it with George Street, the access is rendered easy and direct from the north into the centre of the town. Pvblic Buildings. — There are a good many public buildings in Aberdeen, some of which are in no small degree ornamental to the town. To enumerate them all here would be tedious and im- proper, but it may be right to notice some of the principal. The Barrack, which stands on the Castle Hill, was erected in 1796, and is capable of accommodating 600 men. The situation is airy and healthy, and the design of the building good. * The intervening space till it reaches St Catherine's Hill, part of which was removed in opening the line^ being filled up by embankment, so that Union Street is considerably raised above the Green, which lies alongside of it. 104 ABERDEENSHIRE. Gordon's Hospital, with the additions lately made to it, forms a highly oraamental building. The Court House, which was erected in 1818, from a plan by J. Smith, Esq. is commodious ; but, from its situation, it b com- pletely hid, as is also the prison, which lies^behind it, and which was built in 1830. The County Rooms were erected in 1820, on a plan given by A. Simpson, Esq., and form one of the most striking ornaments of the principal street The North Church was planned by J. Smith, Esq., is an elegant building, and forms a very conspicuous ornament in King Street. The Lunatic Asylum and the Infirmary, both planned by A. Simpson, Esq., are exceedingly handsome buildings, especially the latter. The East Church, an elegant building in the Gothic style, was planned by A. Simpson, Esq. The Bridge in Union Street, over the valley in which the Denburn runs, is a very elegant structure, shewing a single arch whose span is 132 feet, and the height to the top of the parapet 66 feet. The Cross is an elegant octagonal structure, having a column rising from the centre surmounted by a unicorn bearing a shield, and surrounded with medalliqns of the monarchs of Scotland from James L to James VL It is remarkable as having been the work of a stone-mason, from the village of Old Rayne. The Orphan Hospital, just finished, is a handsome building, without any superfluous ornament. Marischal College is not yet finished, but is fast advancing, and when completed will be both commodious and ornamental ; but it is not well situated, being much hemmed in by the surrounding buildings. December 1839. N. B. — An account of the Universities of Aberdeen will be givem along with the General Observations on the County. ABERDEEN. *103 Addenda. — When the note on page 17 was penned, the writer had not seen Boece's Lives^of the Bishops, and at first sight a dis- crepancy seems to exist between this work and his History of Scotland, on the subject of the destruction of Aberdeen by Ed- ward. In the latter work, he says, <* Moraviam omnem incendio ferroque late prseter sacra devastate ac per Marriam rediens non minus earn populationibus afflixit Aberdoniam urbem regiam habitatore exhaustam solo aequat'* And the time of this expedi- tion, though not distinctly stated in the passage itself, is proved by previous dates given, to have been about 1336. In the latter work the statement given is as follows : *' Per id tempus, triginta naves Anglicanse in statione portui Aberdonensi proxim& jecere anchoras, unde expositse copis in terram, pene Aberdoniam prius sunt ingressae quam cives eas advenisse senserant. Angli . • complures Aberdonensium trucidant ; urbem simul atque pontificis et canonicorum aedes omni supellectili popu- latos incendunt. Arsit Aberdonia, sex dies lugubre intuentibus spectaculum. Pepercere hostes templis, pietate moti, religiosorum quoque Abbatis. • • Fuit annus quo Aberdonia funes- tam banc cladem accepit, a Christo incarnato tertius supra mille- simum tercentesimum tricesimum." While it must be admitted that one of these accounts refers to an invasion by land troops, and the other to an attack made by a naval expedition, it must be remarked, that it is exceedingly im- probable that, if they were different attacks, Boece should have only mentioned one of them in each of his works ; and by a refe- rence to Fordun, the diflSculty is in part, at least, removed, for he says, ^* totam Moraviam igne, consumens, usque Elgyn pervenit. Et progrediens inde, salvis ecclesi& et canonicorum sedificiis de Elgyn, flamm& universa devorante, villam de Abirden solo coquavit. Hac tempestate contigit piratas Angligenas de navibus suis de- scendere, et universa maritima cis fluvium de Forth usque ad montes de Hochel sine resistentia crudeliter devastare." So that while Edward came with his army from Moray, there seems to have been an attack made by English ships about the same time. Fordun, to be sure, does not state they came so far north as Aberdeen, and perhaps they did not ; and the mistake of Boece may have been in ascribing the burning of the town to them, in- stead of the army, not recollecting what he had said in his His- tory. That the town was burnt onc«, seems clear, but the evi- dence of two burnings is very doubtful. With regard to the date ABERDEEN. 104^ ABERDEENSHIRE. of this disaster, Lord Hailes, in his Annals, has traced the pro- gress of Edward's army through Scotland, and established that bis return from Moray must have been in 1336. ERRATA. Page 100, under the head ** Newspapers.** The circulation of the Aberdeen Herald here stated, bears reference to the date at which the materials ibr pr^iariiig the Account were first obtained. The circulation of that Journal fbr the two yetra and a half prerious to January 1840 amounted to 1961 per week. Under the same head, the prineiples of the Aberdeen Herald being described as " partly infidel ;*' and this being contradicted by the proprietors, the oonduetcnt of this work beg to retract the statement. PARISH OF PETERCULTER. PRE8BTTERT OF ABERDBEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JOHN STIRLING, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name* — The latter part of the name of this parish is variously written, Coulter and Culture ; in the oldest register of the pa- rish, it is uniformly rendered Culter. Some think that this word is a Gaelic compound consisting of Cul, the back, and tirijhe country ; t. e, the back country, (the parish being situated on the north side of the river Dee.) Others account for the name by what they suppose to have been the original orthography of the parish, viz. Petri CuUura. When Popery was the esta- blished religion, chapels were erected on the opposite sides of the river, and dedicated to the respective Saints Mary and Peter. To these saints were consecrated not only the chapels, but also the nearest wells, the one called St Mary's, and the other St Peter's well. At a small distance from the church there is a high steep bank called Peter's Heugh. EaLtent and Topographical Appearances. — From the east, on which it is bounded by the parishes of Banchory- Devenick and New-hills, this parish extends south-west and west nearly 7 miles. Between these extreme points, on the western boundary, it is in- dented by the parish of Drumoak ; so that its mean length does not much exceed 5 miles. It is in several places nearly 5 miles broad, its mean breadth, however, does not exceed 4 miles. Its figure is so very irregular, that it would be difficult to commute its superficial contents. It is bounded on the south by the river Dee, with the exception of the small farm of Insch, which lies beyond the river. The surface of the parish is very Aiggod and uneven. It is divided by the burns of Leuchar, Culter, and Murtle, into several distinct parts, and it has numerous slopes, and hollows, rocky hills, marshy and mossy flats interspersed. The southern division, with the exception of a small district of lOti ABERDEENSHIRE. flat haugh, rises in a gentle slope from the banks of the river, and contains the mansion-houses of Culter, Murtle, Binghill, Coun- tesswells, and Bieldside, with their respective grounds, gardens, and woods. The situations of these are most beautiful, and the exposure excellent. The farms in this district are in a high state of cultivation. There is almost no waste land. The soil is in gene- ral of a sandy early nature. In some places, there are Gelds of loam with sandy subsoil. As we retire from the river towards the centre and back of the parish, the land becomes high, hilly, rocky, and exposed, large tracts remain waste, covered with furze, broom, heath, and moss. Considerable improvements have of late years been effected, more especially towards the west, on Upper and Nether Angustown. The soil in this western division still continues of an early, thiu, sandy nature, with a bottom of gravel and rock ; but on the north- ern back district, it partakes more of moss and clay^. Climate^ Sfc. — The banks of the Dee are noted for their saliv- brity of air, and many places on them have of late years become favourable retreats for invalids during the summer season. In this parish the variation of climate is considerable. On the banks of the river the southern exposure, the thin, dry, sandy soil, the shel- ter afforded by the numerous enclosures and small plantations^-— all combine in giving effect to the rays of the sun, fn rendering the temperature high, the air most salubrious, and the climate remar- kably genial. In the garden of Murtle, beautifully situated in a sheltered den, the peach ripens every year in the open air, and the crops are as early here as in any part of the county. In the higher and back districts of the parish, the reverse is the case ; the situation is more bleak, the land in many places damp and marshy, the temperature low, and the climate propor- tionably more unfavourable ; the crops are consequently later, the snow is often deeper, and frost more intense than on the river side. On the 4th of August 1829, the river Dee (which is every sea- son subject to great and sudden floods) was flooded to an extra- ordinary degree. The haughs of Mill-timber and Murtle, in this parish, (though enclosed by embankments of extent and strength sufficient for the usual rises of the river,) were covered to the depth of many feet : the soil and growing crops were seriously damaged^ and great quantities of hay in cocks were floated away.* • Sec Sir llioroas Dick Lauder's Account of the Moray Floods. PETERCULTER. 107 Geology^ Mineralofftf^ S;c. — In many places large projecting rocks, and immense blocks of irregular, hard, irony stone are to be met with on the surface* These are considered fit for nothing but for building fences. In the south-west and west divisions, granite is found, both on the surface and in quarries. In the latter division, there is a quarry of considerable extent, from which for- merly stones were driven to Aberdeen. This trade is now discon- tinued. In the mosses, the traces and remains of forests are met with. Wood^ 8fc. — Large tracts of the parish are under wood. The late Colonel Duff of Culter, and the late Mr Gammel of Countess- wells, planted a great extent of surface on their respective estates. These plantations are very thriving, and consist chiefly of the larch and Scotch fir, to which the soil seems most congenial. Around Culter House there is a cluster of beech, chestnut, oak, ash, plane, and pine trees, — ^perhaps the oldest, largest, and most beautiful that is anywhere to be met with in this or in any of the neighbouring counties. One of the beeches measures round its trunk 14 feet, rises between 80 and 90 feet high, and spreads its branches 75 feet. A few of these trees have been lately cut down. Along the avenue to Countesswells, here is likewise a double row of remarkably fine old spruce trees. In the garden of Murile there is a line of Athenian poplars, and one of Arbor vitce worthy of notice for their unusual size ; being planted about thirty-five years ago. The old and large trees around the mansion-houses are principally hard- wood : the later and more extensive plantations consist chiefly of the fir tribes ; the former are in general remark- ably large ; the latter are very thriving and promising — so it may be concluded that the soil is well adapted for both. II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — Regular registers of the baptisms, mar- riages, and deaths are kept, the earliest of which commences in the year 1674. Proprietor's. — The parish is now held by eight proprietors. For- merly about two-thirds of it belonged to Col. R. W. Duff* of Culter. Part of the Culter estate, called Cantlaw, comprising nearly 1000 acres, is now held by the heirs of the late Mr Symmers of Cults. The remainder of this estate, (being still more than a-half of the parish,) belongs now to Mr Robert Duff, son and heir to the late Colonel R. W. Duff. The estate of Countesswells, now possessed by Mr 108 ABERDEENSHIRE. Andrew Gammel, contains considerably more than a-sixth part of the parish. The greatest share of the barony of Murtle, former- ly belonging to the town of Aberdeen, comprised the rematning sixth part. This property has been . divided into several lots or feus. That part still called Murtle has passed through several hands, and is now possessed by Mr Thurbum. The lot of Binghill belongs to Captain Kyle, — that of Bieldside to Mr Corbet, and that of Oldfold to Mr Anderson ; part of the form of Miltown of Drum lies in this parish, and belongs to Mr Irvine of Drum. Mansion Houses. — The mansion-houses of Culter and Countess- wells are large and commodious structures. The former is a very old antiquated building ; it has no date upon it, but is believed to be about 200 years old. The latter is of more modern architect ture. Neither of them is inhabited by^the proprietor. They are both occasionally let to families from Aberdeen. The house of Countesswells is presently occupied by Mr Hadden. The mansion-house of Murtle, the residence of Mr Thurbum, is of modern architecture, and of considerable elegance, in the Gre- cian style ; it stands on a commanding position, having a delightful view of the river Dee, the surrounding scenery along its banks, the more distant Grampians, including Lochnagar, &c. On the properties of Binghill and Bieldside, the present pro- prietors have built neat substantial country seats, at which they re- side. Antiquities. — The remains of the military work mentioned in the former Statistical Account of this parish are now almost en- tirely obliterated ; a small part of the dike and ditch still remains, and forms part of the fence of an adjoining field. This work is usually called in popular tradition the Norman dikes. In the for- * mer account of the parish, its erection is attributed to the Danes or to William the Norman ; but late investigations of the work have exploded this idea.* (See^ Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. i. Chap, iv. page 120.) * Colonel Shand, who was intimately acquainted with tlie fortifications of the Ro- mans north of the firths, examined this camp in 1801, and came to the conclurioo, that the profiles, and other dimensions of the ditch and ramparts are the same as those of the camps of Ury battle dikes, and the other camps in Strathmore. This work has since been examined by Mr Irvine of Drum, Captain Henderson of the 29th Regiment, and Professor Stewart, who agree in thinking it to be s Ro« man camp. It is of an oblong rectangular form, 938 yards long, and 543 yards broed» comprehending an area of 48 Scotch acres. It stood on the north side of the river Dee, on the south-west comer of the parish, on a high ground of moderate elemtion,oppo« site to several fords of the river, which, no doubt, it was intended to cover. It is supposed to have been erected by Lollius Urbicus, in one of his marches Dorth- wards. PETERCDLTER. 109 In one of the plantations on Binghill, there is a Druid's tem- ple enclosed with a common stone dike ; and near to it there* is a large tumulus, which is said to have been once the burying-place of the family of Drum, a property in a neighbouring parish, where the descendants of that family now reside. III. — Population. In the year 1755, the population of the parish was 755 1798, . - - - 1002 1811, - - . . 1010 1821, .... 1096 1831, males, 593 ; females, 630 . 12*23 The increase of the paper manufactory, to be afterwards men- tioned, having attracted to it 60 work people with their families, may account in part for this small increase in population. Other local causes are likewise assignable, such as the reclaiming of waste lands, &C. The yearly average of births for the last 7 years is about * 30 deaths, ... - 13 marriages, - . . 11 Average number of persons under 15 years of age is - 403 between 15 and 30 - 352 30 and 50 . 263 50 and 70 - 156 above 70 . 49 Nuitiber of familiea in the parish in 1831 was, • 255 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 118 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 61 inhabited houses, • •> - . 245 uninhabited houses, ... 7 IV.— Industry. Agriculture. — Though it is impossible to estimate exactly (owing to the want of recent measurements and plans of the various estates,) the number of acres of cultivated and uncultivated sur- face in the parish, as well as the number under wood, yet the following statement has been prepared with considerable care, and may be taken as near the truth : Number of acres cultivated, - - 5686 Imperial. uncultivated, . > 2404 under wood, planted, • 1600 Rent. — The rent of land varies very much from 15s. to L.3 per Scotch acre, the average may be from L. 1 to L. 1, 15s. per Scotch acre. The average rent of grazing a full-grown ox or cow and keep during the year is about Li 6. Live-stock. — The common breed of black-cattle is a cross of the Aberdeenshire with the polled Angus and Galloway breeds. 110 ABERDEENSHIRE. There are no sheep, with the exception of a few of the Englisb breeds kept for domestic use, chiefly on account of their wooL Husbandry, — The system of husbandry pursued in the lower parts of the parish is a five years, and in the higher parts a seven years rotation. The crops raised are oats, barley, hay, turnips, and potatoes* There is very little wheat raised, the soil being in general too thin. It has, however, of late years been cultivated at Murtle with suo cess after ley. The breadth of turnips, for which the soil is well adapted, has been increasing every year since the introduction of bone dust as a manure. A great deal of waste land has been brought under cultivation within these last twenty years, and improvements are still making in trenching, ditching, and draining low-lying land — a consider^ able breadth of which is still susceptible of being reclaimed. The leases are of nineteen years' duration ; in some cases tbey are granted for twenty-seven years, when waste land is required to be improved during the lease. Farm-buildings are in general substantially built of stone and lime, and belong exclusively to the proprietors, being held by the tenants on dead inventory. The cottages are neat and comfort- able ; and the fields are inclosed with stone fences. Fisheries. — The salmon-fisheries on the Dee, since the intro- duction of the stake-nets at the mouth of the river, have greatly di- minished in value, barely remunerating the labours of the fisher- men, though formerly they yielded a considerable rent to the pro- prietors. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be as follows : 1895 acres of oats and b.irley, at L.5, 10s. per acre, imperial, . L. 10,422 10 948 ditto turnips and potatoes, at L. 7 per acre, . . 6636 948 do. hiy, at L. 4 per acre, .... 8792 1895 do. pasture, at L. 1, 10s. per acre, . 2842 10 Toul amount, . L. 23,693 Manufactures. — The manufactories in the parish are three in number. Ist. On the burn of Culter, near its junction with the river Dee, is situated a snufT-manufactory, belonging to William M'Combie, Esq. of Easter Skene. It is a small low square thatched building. The internal machinery is driven by a water-wheel of PETERCULTEU. Ill eight horse power. About three hundred weight of snuff are ground per week. The services of only one man are required. 2d. Several hundred yards farther up the burn-side is situated the large'paper manu&ctory of Messrs Arbuthnott and M'Combie, who purchased it about two years ago. This establishment was the first of the kind in the north, being begun in 1751 on comparatively a small scale, and has ever since been in ac- tive operation. The present proprietors entered with it in 1821. They have very materially enlarged the work, and ad- ded the new improvements in their branch of manufacture, so that, in proportion to its extent, which is not exceeded in many instances in Scotland, it is not inferior to any for the same pur- poses. It consists of a large chaste pile of the necessary build- ings, in excellen repair; its internal machinery is of the most approved modern description. The necessary movements in the machinery are produced by two large powerful water-wheels — the one placed a little above the other — and both turned by the same stream, brought from an artificial reservoir by a wooden aqueduct The papers made at this work are browns, cartridges, and all sorts of wrapping papers, &c It yields a large revenue to Go- vernment, and gives employment to upwards of 60 people, whose comforts are in every respect attended to, and in general they ap- pear sensible of this. This mill is beautifully situated on a flat haugh of several acres, surrounded on the west, north-west, and north, by a very steep hill, the front of which seems to consist of the segments of different circles ; the steep appears almost per- pendicular ; it is in some places nearly 400 feet high, and is co- vered with young wood. On the east and south the ground is not so high. There are large projecting rocks or cnigs on each side of the bum, both above and below the flat where the mill stands, at both of which places there is a bridge thrown across between the opposite rocks — the one on the old, the other on the new line of road to Aberdeen. The reservoir contains one of the largest artificially collected bodies of water any where to be met with. It is confined in the den above the bridge by a large dike at its mouth, between its opposing rocky sides. When full, it is nearly 20 feet deep, and extends in length nearly half a mile. Above the surface of the water the braes are steep and inaccessible, (except by artificial walks,) and are covered with wood. When the burn is flooded, and the water runs over the top of the dike, the cascade down its front is beautiful. The aqueduct from this reservoir to the mill 112 ABERDEENSHIRE. wheel is a work of considerable extent, and deserves notice. It is composed of wood, is 700 feet long, 7 feet wide, and 2 feet deep, and is supported on stone pillars neatly built, with iron and wooden pillars between. It passes below the bridge crossing the burn, about 10 feet above its surface, and conveys a large body of water. The beauty of the situation and scenery of this establishment is much admired. The extent of artificial works, the large pile of buildings on the left;, the spacious reservoir on the right, with an occasional cascade over its dike; the aqueduct, supported in the air, with its large column of rolling water passing under the spa- cious bridge, with the surrounding rocks and woods, — all at this point burst upon the eye of the traveller, and present to his view a combination of the beauties of nature and the works of art in a variety and to an extent seldom if ever to be met with in so nar- row a compass. Sd^ Nearly a mile farther up the hollow, on the burn of Leuchar, in 1831, a mill was erected for carding and spinning wool, and for manufacturing coarse woollen cloth. This establishment is in- creasing. It at present gives employment to 16 persons. V. — Parochial Economy. ilfarA^-TmiTn.*— Our nearest market and post-town is Aberdeen. Means of Communication. — The Dee side turnpike, one of the best public roads in the north, runs through the southern dbtrict of the parish nearly four miles. The mail-coach to and from Aberdeen and the Castletown of Braemar passes daily, with one other public coach, which runs between Aberdeen and Banchory in summer. These are principally employed by visitors from Aber- deen to the various favourite residences on Dee side, more especially to Ballater, near to which place are the famous wells of Pannanicb. The Skene turnpike runs through the back part of the parish about a mile. The cross accommodation roads are sufficiently good. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was built in 1779: it contains 550 sittings ; is a neat substantial building, in a thorough state of repair ; is situated on the bank of the river, near the middle of the southern boundary of the parish ; and is very well attended. The manse is 150 years old, and has undergone considerable re- pairs and alterations. In 1826, an addition of two rooms was made to it, which makes it sufficiently comfortable and commodi- ous. The offices are old and thatched, but in an ordinary state of repair. The glebe, including the garden and the stance of PETERCULTER. 113 manse and offices, contains the legal number of acres, along with nearly an acre of pasture. The stipend by the last augmentation in 1812 is in meal, 54 bolls, 2 firlots, 2^ lippies; in bear, 51 bolls, 3 firlots ; and in money, L. 1 19, 8s. 2d. All the people are of the Established Church, with the exception of five families. The average number of communicants in the Established Church is 500. £eptfbrd Quay-wall ; West India Docks ; and Sheerness Docks. Stones from the same quarry^ were formed into pillars for the groins of the London Custom House, and were drened for the long steps and coping of St Catherine's Docks ; and for the most prominent ports of the new Bridge of Don. They were likewise used in build- ing the new London Bridge, and from the same place was that fine block of granite selected which encloses certain urns and other memorials of the present age, and forms the foundation stone of that magnificent structure. In these quarries also a few specimens of dolomite have been found. 122 ABERDEENSHIRE. as well as the general prosperity of the district, amply prove the benefits resulting from personal residence of proprietors.* Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence with August 1645, and are regularly kept up to January 1676, with the exception of eight months previous to December 1646. Af- ter 1676 there is a hiatus of fifty years. From January 1726, they are regularly kept up to the present time. From the most ancient of these records, a considerable amount of information might be obtained in reference to the then existing state of society. Indeed, the facts which they contain render it highly probable, that a collation of such session records (commencing with a. d. 1638,) as are still preserved throughout the kingdom, would ma- terially tend to illustrate a most important portion of our ecclesi- astical history, which at present chiefly depends for its authority on the conflicting narratives of persons whom we know to have been avowed partizans of opposite and inveterate factions. Antiquities, — On a gentle acclivity at the south side of l^ne- bagger, and commanding a beautiful view of the sea-coast and ad- jacent lowlands, is found a Druidical temple, formed by ten rough granite stones, arranged in the figure of a circle. They are about eight feet distant from each other, the highest of them measuring ten, the lowest five feet above the surface of the ground. One of these stones, fronting due south, is of much greater breadth and depth than the others, and now appears crushing through the low and decayed pediment on which it had been originally raised. Probably it was the site of an altar, or station of the presiding priest In the church-yard, and forming a part of its wall, stands a large oblong stone curiously carved. Some have believed it to be a Runic monument, but the cross (which can still be distinctly traced,) pervading that mass of varied sculpture with which it is inscribed, seems to render this suggestion inadmissible. In all probability it must have constituted an ornament of some former church, subsisting during the times of Catholicism. The Gouch or Gouk Stone is a large shapeless block of gra- nite, on the north-east of Caskieben, erected (as is said in the last Statistical Account,) to commemorate the death of a general of that name who was slain near it. The tradition in respect to this stone is now forgotten, and it was even with some little diffi- culty that its site could be ascertained. The Quaich Stone^ built into a low wall near the same place, has no particular marks * See note to Mit>celIancous ObserTations. DYCE. 1 23 by which it might be distinguished, and the origin of its name is entirely unknown. , There are tumuli in various places throughout the parish^ usu- ally on small eminences* Bones have been found in some of them, (inclosed in urns of pipe-clay, nearly resembling common flower- pots in shape,) but no tradition has retained a single trace of their history. III. — Population. From the records of baptisms, marriages, and burials for some time subsequent to 1646, it would appear that the population of Dyce then must have been not less numerous than at the present day, and double its amount when the last Statistical Account was published, 150 years afterwards. This curious fact cannot be as- signed to any merely accidental or temporary cause, since these records, for nearly twenty yeara in the seventeenth century, are preserved ; during which time there does not appear any one year to have been a material diminution of the births and marriages. The burials are not quite so accurately recorded. From the li- mited number of places where births and marriages are mentioned as having occurred, there seems some reason to conjecture that se- veral small villages had then existed in the parish. Probably these villages were mostly in the neighbourhood of farm-buildings, where the servants and others resided for the sake of convenience and mutual protection. This would account for farm-steadings being always called ^* towns" in this dbtrict of Scotland. Some of them, as Kirkton, Bedlieston, &c. still retain the syllable in their pro- per names, after every vestige of a " town'* in their neighbourhood has disappeared. After the year 1677, there are no data by which we could form even a probable conjecture as to the population of this parish, till the return made to Dr Webster, 1755, which gives it at that time 383. By the last Statistical Account, 1795, we And the population still on the decrease, being then stated at 352, at which time, however, it would appear to have sunk to its minimum, having since rapidly and steadily increased, till, in 1831, it had reached 620. During the last ten years, however, it may be re- marked, that the population in this parish has been perpetually fluctuating, in proportion to the demand for quarriers. It has not been uncommon to find an increase or diminution of 50 or 60 in the course of a few weeks. The permanent population, which ap- pears to have steadily increased (as has been mentioned) up to 1831, (when it probably amounted to something more than 500,) may now be considered as diminishing. This is chiefly owing to 124 ABEllDEKNSllIKE. the gradual removal of crofters from the more highly cultivated portions of the parish, either to Aberdeen, where they are employ- ed by the manufacturers, or to some other country district, the barren patches which these persons have improved being (as their leases expire) incorporated with the adjoining forms. There are no towns or villages in the parish. Population by census 1831, . 620 Yearly average of births seven years prior to 1831» 12 deaths, .... 9 marriages, .6 Average number of persons, by census 1831, under 15 years of age, ' 252 betwixt 15 and 30, 151 30 and 50, . 144 50 and 70, . 54 upwards of 70, 19 bachelors above 50, . • . 8 widowers, do. .... 7 unmarried women above 45, . • 7 Number of families in the parish in 1831, . . . 112 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 63 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 19 Number of illegitimate births in the parish within the last three years, 2. . By a very accurate census taken in 1833, the population of this parish was found to have decreased to 485 persons, chiefly in con« sequence of the proprietors having ceased working the quarries. Of these, 178 were under fifteen years of age. By a census taken in 1839, the population was found farther decreased to 416.} Character of the People. — The people, in general, possess a great degree of sound sense, and perhaps even something of that sarcas- tic shrewdness which has sometimes been ascribed as a characteristic to the natives of Aberdeenshire. At the same time, they rarely in- terfere with subjects unconnected with their own private interests and domestic duties. That they are a religious people is most satisfactorily ascertain- ed by the moral respectability of their private conduct. Crimes cognizable by the civil authorities are unknown. Drunkenness is rare. Charges of bastardy may at present be averaged at three in about two years, and these are not unusually cases of relapse on the part of the females, — a striking contrast to former times. Dur- ing the short space of eleven weeks at the end of the year 1645, (about the very date which some hfve been pleased to esteem the golden era of Scotland's religious history,) we find from the parish records more crimes of a licentious character, occasionally accom- panied by heavy aggravations, charged before the kirk-session, and admitted by the parties, than have occurred during the last three years I The contrast is little less striking when we compare the DYCE. 1 25 state of crime at the present time with that in any other portion of our parish history during thecourseof the seventeenth century. The superstitions which, from the same authority, we find to have then infected both clergy and people, are now generally ridiculed. If any trace of superstition still remain, it is rather practical than speculative, as in observing festival days, or concealing a child's name until the baptism, and seems rather the result of habit than of any religious prepossession* Poaching in game prevails to a considerable extent, but much more among quarriers and manufacturers than the permanent inha<- bitants of the district There is no poaching on the salmon-fish- eries, which in this parish are of very little value. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There are 2910 acres, standard imperial measure, of cultivated land in the parish ; 581 acres of waste land, of which perhaps 237 or thereby might, with a profitable application of ca- pital, be added to the cultivated land. There are 1176 acres un- der wood, amounting to rather more than a third of the whole pa- rish. Indeed, the hill of Tyrebagger, (with the exception o( a narrow rim round its edge,) is unfit for any other purpose. The plantations are wholly Scotch fir and larch. In some places they are thriving ; but on the extensive level forming the top of the hilt, they have hitherto made but little progress, chiefly in conse- quence of the poverty of the soil, and their exposure to the sea blast. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1 Ster- ling per imperial acre. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 2,' 10s. Sterling per ox or cow, grazed during the summer season. Turnips during winter amount to about the same sum. Wages and Rates of Labour. — Ploughmen get about L. 10 per annum; women from L. 2 to L. 4; day-labourers, with victuals, from lOd. to Is.; harvest men from L. ], 10s. to L.2, 5s.; har- vest women from L.1, 5s. to L. 15s. ; carpenters and masons from Is. dd. to Is. 6d. per day, with victuals; a smith receives for all the iron-work on a farm of two horse labour (price of iron include ed) L. 4, 10s. Sterling per annum. Smiths are never employed here by the day. Prices. — A double horse cart costs from L. 8 to L. 10 Sterling ; plough for two horses L.2, 10s. to L. 3 Sterling; harrows 1 2s. each; mason-work from L. 1, 5s. to L.2 per rood; best park timber from 8d. to lOd. per cubic foot. 126 ABERDEENSHIRE. Husbandry. — Thirty years ago there were several flocks of sheep in the parish, although there are now only a few kept by private &niiiies for home consumption. This change is to be attributed partly to the extent of land which has of late years been reclaimed from waste and pasture, and partly to the multiplication of planta- tions and enclosures. It is the general opinion, that the old Aberdeenshire breed of cattle is best adapted for a greater pro- portion of the soils in this parish. Some have occasionally tried the short- horned, but it seems now universally admitted that these can only be profitable on land of superior quality, and in a high state of cultivation. From a fashion of crossing these breeds, which now extensively prevails, there is some reason to dread that the pure Aberdeenshire will gradually diminish, or even may wholly disappear. Should this really occur, it is the opinion of some superior judges, that (considering the quality of a large pro- portion of the soil) a most serious blow would be given to the pros- perity of agriculture in this county. It appears, at any rate, a subject worthy the attention of land-owners and agricultural asso- ciations, were it only from the great respectability and skill of the individuals with whom, in this district, the above opinion is under- stood to have originated. The usual system of cropping is by a rotation of five, six, and seven years, viz. for a five-shift, grain after lea ; turnips ;* bear and sometimes oats laid down with clover and rye grass; hay or pasture ; pasture. For a six years shift, the same, with an addi- tional year of pasture. For a seven years shift, two grain crops before turnips ; in other respects the same as the former. The greater proportion of land in this parish is best adapted for a rota- tion of six years instead of five, (which is by far the most common system,) although the farmers, in general, cannot afford, under the present depressed prices, to sacrifice a direct and immediate profit for the sake of a probable ultimate advantage. Leases. — The usual duration of leases is nineteen vears. On an improving farm, however, this term is by much too short The tenant can have no sufiicient time to recover his capital and the in- terest sunk upon it, still less to gain a fair remuneration for his * It is a singular fact that turnips are, every rotation, uiminislung in size on rich old infield land, scarcely equalling those raised on land newly reclaimed. Tuntips raised on land long cultivated have also, since 1819, been frequently visited by mil- dew in this county, although (notwith'itanding that the le«\vcs all wither and foU off) without any appearance of an evil result, The writer takes this opportunity of acknowledging the able assistance of his parishioner, Mr Hcrvey of Bedlieston, in drawing up these statistics of Husbandry. .3 DYCE. 1-27 risk and labour. On an impro?ed farm (especially where the soil is of unequal quality) leases should be granted not arbitrarily, but to correspond with a suitable rotation of cropping. Farm^Buildings. — The farm houses are in general substantial, and several on the estates of Caskieben and Dyce are built in a very ornamental style, usually that of the cottage orn^e. The steadings attached to these are very complete, arranged in the figure of a square, slated, and with thrashing-mills attached. Most of the &rms in this parish are inclosed, and several of them thorough- ly and substantially, with stone walls four feet high. The expense of these inclosures is from 4d. to 6d. an ell, excluding the mate- rials. At the same time, there are considerable exceptions to these favourable statements. In some parts of the parish farm-buildings and inclosures are very indifferent, in a few instances, even little less wretched than they are in general found commodious and substan- tial. It need hardly be mentioned, that the latter description ap- plies chiefly to small farms where the soil is of very inferior qua- lity. It is only fair to add, that even in these cases there seems at present a decided tendency towards improvement. Improvements. — Little, comparatively speaking, remains to be done in the way of reclaiming waste land. During the last twenty years, six or seven hundred acres of barren soil have been improved. On the north and west all that can be done has already been ac- complished, and if the extensive improvements now in progress through other parts of the parish be carried into effect with the same energy and perseverance as they have hitherto been pursued, all the barren land which has the smallest chance of being culti- vated with success will be reclaimed in the course of a very few years. Mr Hervey, who holds the farm of Bedlieston from William Gordon, C. S., Esq. has raised a very extensive embankment for the protection of his valuable haugh land against the inundations of the river Don. It has hitherto proved effectual, with the excep- tion of a few cases when the river has risen to a very unusual ex- tent, as in August 1829.* There are no obstacles to improvement in any way peculiar to this parish. The low price of grain, high rents, short leases, bad roads, and incessant agitation of the corn laws, are of course severely felt here as in other places. The pay- ment of miln multures, which seems to have been considered a se- * Withiii the last three years, howerer, several of these high floods have occurred. There can be no doubt this is owing to the multiplication of drains. As both spring and surface draining is still continuing to progress, it will probably soon become ne- cessary to throw a great proportion of haugh land permanently into grass. 128 ABERDEENSHIRE. rious grievance when the former Statistical Account was written, is. now falling gradually into disuse. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish on an average of the last seven years, so &r as it can be ascertained, is as follows: — Oat8,d968bolls,atL. 1,0s. 6(L per boll, . . L.4067 4 Bear, with fodder, 654 bolls, at L. 1, 4s. . . . 784 16 Turnips, 269 acres, at L. 4, lOs. per acre, . 1210 10 Potatoes, 44 acres, at L. 9 per acre, . . . 396 Hay, 24,000 stones, at 6d. per stone, 600 Pasture, 786 acres, ISs. per acre, . . . 707 8 L.7765 18 The value of the quarries cannot be ascertained. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — Aberdeen, distant from six to eight miles, is the nearest market-town. Means of Communication. — The turnpike from Aberdeen to In- verness, or great north road, forms the boundary of the parish on the west for a distance of two miles. The turnpike from Aber-* deen to Banff crosses it near the other extremity, where it is scarce- ly a mile in breadth.* The canal from Aberdeen to Inverury also passes through this parish. This canal is believed to be a very in- different speculation in respect to profit, but is found exceedingly convenient by those living near it, for the conveyance of coals and lime at a reasonable rate. Passage boats also ply from Aber- deen to Inverury twice a- day during the summer. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated at the northern ex- tremity of the parish, .on a rocky promontory formed by a winding of the river Don, and commanding a view of the rich valley of that river for upwards of twenty miles, until its course be lost among the range of hills that rise in the Highland district of Al- ford. It is an ancient building, and from its iron cross still left on the east end, and its carved stone work on the gables, we may sup- pose it to have been built a considerable time prior to the Refor- mation. It has frequently been altered and repaired, but is still in a very insufficient state, and hardly adequate for the accommo- dation of the increased population of the parish. The manse and offices were rebuilt about ten years ago, and the * Tha Bridge of Dyce, on the road from Aberdeen to Banff, was erected by Mr Bum of Haddington. It is a wooden arch, of above 100 feet span, resting upon two abutments or land-breasts of good masonry. The framing, as seen in the intradoc of the arch, display sound judgment, united to great mechanical skill. The architect (it may be remarked) preferred for the workmanship of this bridge, the natural wood of Braemar, in this county, to Baltic timber. Its light and elegant outline adda greatly to the effect of the fine river scenery. DYCE. 129 work was executed in a very substantial manner. The glebe mea- sures a little more than 5 acres, and may be of the yearly value of L. 10 Sterling. The teinds amount to L. 1 13 Sterling per annum, and the ba- lance of stipend is supplied from the Exchequer allowance. Notwithstanding the nearness of this parish to Aberdeen, by which it is placed completely within its vortex of agitation, not a single Seceder is to be found in it, and only three Dissenters of any description, — one femalo who is a Roman Catholic, and an aged pair who are Episcopalians, but occasionally attend the pa- rish church. The average number of communicants is 230. The average amount of church collections ibr all purposes is about L. 32. Education. — The parochial is the only school in the parish. The branches there taught are, reading, writing, English gram- mar, arithmetic, and Latin. All the pupils are daily examined on the principles of religious truth. The schoolmaster's salary is L. 26 Sterling, and the school-fees average about L. 8 Sterling per annum. The schoolmasters of this district are, however, now receiving a large addition to their salaries from a fund left for that purpose by the late Mr Dick, a gentleman from Morayshire. The school-fees are, reading, 2s. ; reading and writing, 2s. 6d. ; reading, writing, and arithmetic, 3s. ; mathematics, 6s. ; Latin, 4s. per quarter; they are, on the whole, regularly paid. The people in general are fully alive to the benefits of edu- cation, and there are extremely few in this parish who cannot read, and do not avail themselves of the opportunities they enjoy for educating their families. The west and north-west districts of the4)arish are from three to four miles distant from school. Va- rious attempts have been made to remedy this inconvenience, but hitherto unsuccessfully. The population of these districts is very considerable. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 16. The average sum allotted to each is Is. 2d. per week, or L. 3, Is. lid. per annum. Annual amount of contributions for the poor : Collections, L. 29, 19s. 3d. ; interest of money, L. 6 ; Wilson's mortification for aged females, L. 7, 2s. ; legacies, donations, &c. L. 7 ; total, L. 50, Is. 3d. The above is the whole sum annually distributed, although there is little probability of its continuing adequate to meet the demands of an increasing number of claimants. Until ABERDEEN. I 130 ABERDEENSHIRE* lately, there has ever been a marked reluctance amongst the poor to apply for sessional relief, but it is to be regretted that this feel- ing is in some instances beginning to diminish. The causes of this change, although extremely important, and sufficiently ob* vious, are too multiplied, and too much involved in the general history of the country to admit of being detailed here. We may only remark in general, from consequences already observable to a limited extent, that, if this honourable feeling of independence among the poorer classes continue to decrease or altogether dis- appear, a legal assessment (so much dreaded by some) will be one of the most trivial evils to be apprehended. Inns, — There is only one inn in the parish, which, lying on the high road, is chiefly frequented by strangers. Fuel, — iCoals are almost the only fuel used. The poorest class occasionally use broom and whin bushes for fuel during the winter. The price of English coals in Aberdeen varies from 3s. 2d. to 4s. 6d. per boll, a third larger than the imperial boll. They may be conveyed to this parish by a canal boat, for 7d. or 8d. ad- ditional. Miscellaneous Observations. Nearly a third of the whole arable land in the parish has been reclaimed within the last thirty years, so that, making allowance for the difficulties to be encountered from poverty of soil and other causes, there are few parishes within the county which can rival Dyce in the extent of improvement which has taken place since the last Statistical Account was pubhshed. The estate of Cas- kieben rented at that time L. 212, it is now worth L. 1000 per annum. Dyce rented L. 850, it is now worth nearly L. 1100 per annum, and the extensive improvements still in progress on this estate must, in a few years, greatly enhance its value.* Upwards of three-fourths of the wood in this parish has been planted with- in the last twelve years. * These improvements have been, in a great measure* suspended (since the aboTe tras written,) in consequence of the lamented death of Mr Gordon of Pitlurg. the proprietor. His heir being a minor, many years must elapse before the result anti- cipated in the above passage is ever likely to be realized. So uncertain are (what appear to be) the best founded expectations of human beings! January 1840. PARISH OF UDNY. PRESBYTBRY OF BLLON, SYNOD OF ABERDKEN. THE REV. JOHN LESLIE, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Udny derives its name from a family, which, for many centuries, has possessed the barony of Udny, on which the kirk stands. The etymology of Udny is not known. It was erected into a parish by act of Parliament, passed 19th December 1597, entitled " Ratification— Ane Act anent Christ's Kirk of Udny" being separated from the parishes of Ellon, Tarves, Logie Buchan, and Foveran. The lands taken from Ellon and Logie Buchan still pay small sums out of the teinds of these lands to the ministers of Ellon and Logie Buchan. Extent and Boundaries^ 8fc, — The parish is almost circular, ex- cept on the north-east, where it juts out to a considerable extent. It is supposed to contain about 16 square miles. It is situated in the district of Aberdeenshire called Formartin, and is bounded on the north and north-west, by Tarves ; on the west, by Bour- tie ; on the south-west, by Keithhall ; on the south, by New Machar and Fintray ; on the south-east, by Belhelvie ; on the east, by Foveran ; and on the north-east, by Logie Buchan and Ellon. Three small streams run from west to east till they terminate in the river Ythan, about six miles distant. Two of these streams bound the parish, — the one on the south, the other on the north. Abundance of granite, and a vein of limestone, runs from south- west to north-east in a zig-zag direction. In many places the vein is covered with a stratum of grayish slate, and the lime-rock is all more or less mixed with the slate, which injures the quality of the lime. Lime-works have frequently been started ; but are never work- ed to any extent, as the water breaking in upon the quarry, and the inferior quality of the lime, render them a losing concern. The soil is for the most part loam, on a bottom of granite, and sometimes on clay. The granite bottom is under the best soil. 132 ABERDEENSHIRE. II. — Civil History. Proprietors, — These are, Earl of Aberdeen, Sir William C. Seton of Pitmedden, and Colonel Udny of Udny. The rest of the pa- rish is divided among eight heritors and three bodies corporate. Registers. — A baptism and money register were begun about the year 1720, but have been very irregularly kept, especially the former. Mansion-Houses. — In 1819, a neat mansion-house was built of granite, on the estate of Pittrichie, then the property of James W. Mackenzie, Esq. The property now belongs to Alexander Milne, Esq. On the barony of Udny is a Castle, supposed, from its shape^ to have been built about the end of the thirteenth, or beginning of the fourteenth century. Its dimensions are, length outside 46 feet; inside 28 feet; breadth outside 85 feet; inside 17 feet; height 71 feet. The walls are thick enough to admit of bed-closets within them. The two under-stories are vaulted, the upper one of which contains a spacious hall, the whole length and breadth of the castle. It is neatly floored, or rather pavemented, with oblong hexagonal granites, very neatly joined. Its height to the top of the arch is about 20 feet. An attempt was made in 1801 to modernize the castle ; but the undertaker of the work having failed in circumstances, it remains in an unfinished state. The castle is said to have been the work of three successive proprietors, who all lived the ordinary period of life. One built the two under-stories, or the vaulted work, the next completed the walls, and the third put on the roof. It is re- ported that all the three were nearly ruined by it. This is not to be wondered at, when we consider that they had only the barony of Udny, not 400 Scots acres in extent ; and at that time there could not be more than 60 acres in cultivation. The present proprietor has extensive estates in this parish, likewise in Ellon and Foveran. At Tillygreig, the seat of Arthur Harvey, Esq. is a small maiif sion, suited to the estate, which rents about L. 500. It is about to be repaired and enlarged. At Pitmedden are two mansions, both in ruins. III. — Population. The i>opulation in 1801, was 1242 1811, 1210 1821, 1328 1831, 1309 UDNY. 133 Number of fiunilies iti the pariah in 1831, 263 chiefly employed in agriculture, 192 trade, manufiiotures, or bandieraftf 29 Numher of persons under 15 years of age, . 254 betwiit 15 and 30, . .530 30 and 50, . 350 50 and 70, . . 176 upwards of 70, . . 17 There are 8 proprietors of land in the parish having above L. 50 of yearly rent, but none of them resident There are 2 insane, and 2 fatuous persons in the parish. Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 12., IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Acres in cultiradon, about . 7500 not susceptible of cultivation, . 400 susceptible of cultivation but not cultivated, . 150 About 60 acres may be supposed to fall to Hillbrae, In the parish of Udny, of an undivided common between Udny, Belhelvie, and Foveran, called Faichside. About 270 acres are plapted, chiefly with fir. About ninety years ago, Mains of Udny, being the lands about Udny Castle, were tjistefully laid out in square fields, averaging about 16 acres, and divided by lanes, all planted with four rows of beech and elm, and a hawthorn hedge next the fields. The hedges are all decayed, and the two inner rows of trees were cut down about forty years ago. The outer rows have attained a considerable size, and give the place, at a distance, the appearance of a close wood, and the castle appears to advantage in the centre. J3«n/.— The rent of land is a trifle under L.1 Sterling an impe- rial acre. lAvt-Stock. — Much attention has been paid of late to the im- provement of cattle, by importing breeds from Kirkcudbright and Durham; but the Aberdeenshire breed, mostly black without horns, suit the country best, as they thrive upon inferior keep. Rearing cattle is more advantageous tt\an raising grain. Draining. — Though much has been done by draining, yet no branch of improvement has been less attended to. The drains are seldom cut deep enough. This is principally owing to the open ditches, or water tracks, not being cut to a sufiicient depth to admit the water from the drains on either side of the ditch. Seldom are either the ditches or drains cut deeper than three feet, or three feet and a half, whereas the ditches should never be less than seven feet, and the drains about five feet and a half deep. 134 ABERDEENSHIRE. Leases.-^heases are generally for nineteen years— by far too short a period upon unimproved farms. Most of the land is entailed, and the proprietors are restricted from giving leases for more than nineteen years, and also from giv- ing more than one year's rent at the end of the lease, for houses, fences, drains, &c. in short, for all improvements. These restric- tions were long acted up to by the proprietors, but have been as much as possible departed from by them for several years; and many of them, at their own risk and expense, give great encouragement to industrious tenants. There is an emulation, in most cases, be- tween the proprietor and his tenants, whether the former shall be the more liberal, or the latter the more industrious. The result has been, that the rental of the parish, about forty years ago little more than L. 2000, is now above L. 7000, and the farmers' capi- tal has increased more in proportion than the rent. The valued rent of the parish is L. 5831 Scots, divided as follows :^ Udny, 'possessed by Colonel' John Robert Udny Fullerton, . L. 813 12 Knapern, Earl of Aberdeen, . . 628 5 10 Part of PiUrichie, Do. .... 85718 3^ Fart of Pittrichie, Alexander Milne, Alexander Duncan, Alexander Johnston, and the kiik-session of Meldrunii— their proportions not known, ..... 492 1 8^ Drumbreck, the President and Governors of Robert Gordon*s Hospi- tal, Aberdeen, ... . 564 Orchardtown, Do. .... 613 13 4 Pitmedden, Sir William Conte Seton. Bart. . 621 O Balnakettle, King^s College, Aberdeen, . . 200 Tillyeve, Do. Bursary land, mortified by an Earl of Findlater, who was Chancellor of King's College, Aberdeen, • . 266 18 4 Tillycorthie, George Angus, . . 120 Hillbrae, John Thorn, Advocate in Aberdeen, • 65 8 Tillygreig, Heirs of John Harvey of Kinnettles, • 371 14 2 Slagmagally, Alexander Thomson of Banchory, 50 Torrylcith, Mrs Ramsay of Barra, . . 166 13 4 L.5831 Quarries. — There are granite and limestone, both worked with iron levers and hammers, and the rock occasionally burst with powder. Average amount of Raw Produce: — Grain.— About 10,500 quarters of oats, and 400 quarters of bear ; of which about 2000 quarters are consumed in seed, and about 3000 quarters in meal, malt, barley, in corn to horses and poultry, leaving 6000 to be disposed of at L.l per quarter, . • . L. 6000 O 140 tons of beef, at L. 4^ a ton, annually sold, 6160 Considerable quantities of potatoes and turnips are raised, as nearly one-sixth of the arable land is annually in crops of these ; the extent of turnip land to that of potatoe land being as 7 to 1 . Little or none is sold. Cattle are fed with the turnips, and the potatoes are consumed with men, horses, a few swine and poultry. Little cultivated and no meadow hay, is raised, as the land pays better in pasture. Very few sheep are kept What are kept is of the large kind, and weigh from 64 to 80 pounds. 3 UDNY. 135 Ad ox of 7 cvt. costs L. 2, 10b. for grazing. About 25 tons of butter sold annually, at L. 60 per ton, L.1500 16 tons of cheese L.28 — . 448 £ggs» at 4d. per dozen, . . . 182 L. 14,290 Formerly, a considerable sumVas realized annually for poultry. Now, the fi^mers can afford to use all their poultry themselves, and none is sold but by the cottars and tenants on small possessions. The butter and cheese, especially the former, made in this pa- rish, are considered of superior quality. This is owing to most of the land being on an open or rocky bottom, producing fine grass. The land is managed generally under a six or seven shift. In the former case, which only answers with the better land, one-half of the farm is under grain, one-third under grass, and one-sixth under tur- nips and potatoes. There is little clay land in the parish, and con- sequently little fallow. All the farmers have small gardens for rais- ing vegetables for their families. In many of them are raised gooseberries and currants, and a few apples. At Pitmedden, the seat of Sir William C. Seton, is one of the finest and best laid out gardens in the north of Scotland. It was made at a great expense, about the middle of the seventeenth century, and produces apples and pears, especially the former, superior to any in Scotland. V. — PAttocHiAL Economy. Means of Communication, — A post-office was established in the centre of the parish about three years ago, by the influence of the Earl of Aberdeen, who does everything his Lordship can for the good of the country. There is a daily post from Aberdeen. A turnpike from Aberdeen leading north, and another from New- burgh, the nearest port, distant seven miles, leading west, cross each other in the centre of the parish. The line of turnpike be- tween Aberdeen and Meldrum passes through the west part of the parish, nearly parallel with the road from Aberdeen through the centre of the parish. A public coach passes and repasses daily on both the turnpikes from Aberdeen. All the streams which public roads cross have excellent stone bridges. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated within half-a-mile of the north boundary of the parish — rather inconveniently for people in the south end of the parish. It was built in 1821, and seated for 750. The seats are all rent-free, and the church is very commodious, with a neat low spire. The manse was built in 1759, and repaired and enlarged in 136 ABERDEENSHIRE. 1781. The glebe coDsists of about 7 imperial acres, 4 of good land, 3 of bad — value L.10 per annum. The stipend is 16 chalders of victual, half meal half barley — barley Linlithgow measure. About 280 families in the parish, and, in general, between 500 and 600 persons attend the Established Church every Sabbath. There are 8 families of Episcopalians, and 7 of Seceders in the parish. The Established Church is remarkably well attended. Within the last seven years, the number of communicants has increased from 527 to 598. Education. — There are two schools, — one parochial and the other on the teacher's own adventure. The latter receives small sums from some of the heritors occasionally as a reward. Salary of parochial school is L. 32 ; amount of fees of each school about L. 20 a year. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodation. School- fees per quarter, 2s. for English; 3s. for English and writing; 4s. for arithmetic; and 5s. for Latin. Till the present parochial schoolmas- ter fell into bad health, when it was given up, an academy was kept at the parochial school for nearly fifty years, attended by from 20 to 30 gentlemen's sons, at L. 30 a-year for board and education. The academy was the means of giving better education to the parishioners than any of their neighbours had an opportunity of obtaining. Many of the younger farmers belonging to the parish, who received their education at the Udny Academy, attended se- veral sessions at the Aberdeen universities. Some of the pa- rishioners' sops became professional men, who, had it not been for the academy, would have been in humble life. There is not a person in the parish above fifteen years of age who cannot read and write. Poor and Parochial Funds. — About 31 receive parochial aid, at the average rate of L. 1, 16s. per annum. Besides these, several are maintained at firom 2s. to 3s. per week, and many get occa- sional supplies. Average collection on Sundays at the church 10s. Thepoof% fund has also the interest of a mortified sum of L. 350. Use of mortcloth yields about L.2, 15s. per annum; and fines for im- moralities L.3 per annum; accidental legacies, in small sums^ may yield L. 8 per annum, and gifts from charitable individuals may yield L. 4 per amium. It is much to be regi*etted that many <^ the poor, when once they receive a little relief, anxiously look for 4 UDNY. - 137 more' ; and when they once reoeWe relief^ it too frequently breaks the spring of industry, and renders them quite dependent. Fairs. — Three fairs are held at Green of Udny, chiefly for dis- posing of black-cattle. The fairs are well attended. Inns. — There are 7 inns, by far too many, as they have a very bad effect on the morals of the people. Fuel. — Formerly peats were the only fuel, procured at a great waste of time and labour, tboi^h little or no money was laid out for it. Now, about one-half of the fuel is coals, bought at Aberdeen and Newburgh, at about 4s. the imperial boll of 86 stones. Coals are much cheaper than peat Miscellaneous Observations. At the time of the former Statistical Account, forty-six years ago, a great proportion of the parish was covered with broom, whins, and bulrushes. These are now extirpated, and theeye meets with nothing but cultivated and mostly enclosed fields. Fewer hands are now employed in agriculture than were formerly, in proportion to the extent cultivated. The improved method of working, especially the thrashing-machines, as every farm above fifty acres has a thrash- ing-machine, has greatly diminished human labour. The conse- quence has been, that many of the labourers have repaired to Aberdeen, or where they could find employment, which accounts for there being more births than burials in the parish. About forty years ago, there were ten meal mills in the parish. The spare grain was all milled and sold in Aberdeen. There are now only three meal milb in the parish. These have not constant em- ployment The farmers mill little more than what is sufficient for their families. It is found more advantageous to sell grain than meaL' In the parish are 8 blacksmiths, 8 shoemakers, 5 tailors, 5 Wrights, and 3 masons. Most of them work by the piece. There are 2 gardeners, who work at Is. 6d. per day, with victuals. Farm- servants compose the chief body of the people. They are sober, industrious, and trustworthy. Some of the tradesmen are dissi- pated. There are 6 merchants in the parish upon a small scale. They all retail groceries and coarse cloth. Most of them sell spirits, which circumstance has a strong tendency to hurt the mo- rals of the people. The farmers take most of their groceries from Aberdeen. Many of the cottars and small tenants barter their butter and eggs with the country retailers, for groceries. A few weeks before Whitsunday and Martinmas, markets are 138 ABERDEENSHIRE. held in different parts of the country for engaging farm-servants. The best sign of the times is, when the servants are scarce, and wages high. January 1840. PARISH OF OLD DEER. PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JOHN MORISON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The word Deer, which gives name at once to the pa- rish, to the village that lies contiguous to the parish church, and to the presbytery of the bounds, appears, on a review of ecclesias- tical and other records, to have been spelled differently at different periods, but always to have been composed of letters which, when spoken according to the ordinary rules of pronunciation, would have invariably produced the same sound. The intelligent author of the last Statistical Report of the parish traces the origin of the name Deer to a Gaelic word signifying the worship of God ; others, again, have traced its etymology to a Saxon word signifying hollow or valley. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is situated about the centre of the district of Buchan. It is not less than 1 1 miles long in its greatest dimension from south-east to north-west, and from 5 to 6 miles broad, where it is widest. At an average, it may be com- puted as being 9^ miles in length, by 4^ miles in breadth ; thus containing upwards of 40 square miles of surface, or about 25,000 imperial acres. Mr Robertson, in his map of the counties of Aber- deen, &c. estimates the extent of the parish in Aberdeenshire at 22,940 acres, and in Banffshire, 2777 acres; an estimate which agrees pretty nearly with that above given. The less portion is generally supposed to be w detached part of a great barony, the body of which constitutes the parish of St Fergus, that belonged to a family of the name of Cheyne, once hereditary sheriffs of the county of Banff, who had their castle or principal residence at In- verugie. These lands came into the possession of the Marischal &- mily, in consequence of an alliance by marriage of one of the OLD DEER. 139 Keiths with the heiress of that house, about the middle of the four- teenth century. The parish is of an irregular shape, and in many places without any distinct or natural boundary, bearing some re- semblance to the usual form of a cross tree, a sort of yoke that em- braces the neck, and stretches over the shoulders, — from the ends of which, persons, for the sake of ease and convenience, often sus- pend and carry water buckets or such like burdens. The space corresponding with the cavity that receives the neck is on the east side, and belongs to the parish of Longside ; and the site of the parish church is in the line of that encroachment, little more than a mile from the junction of the two parishes, and about 10^ miles by the public road from the nearest sea»port, at the parliamentary burgh and market-town of Peterhead. Topographical Appearances. — The surface is undulating, present- ing to the eye of a spectator, placed on an elevated situation, a group of eminences of various sizes and forms, separated from one another, and in some instances altogether surrounded by rivulets or rills. Many of these eminences, the highest of which it is probable, though no exact measurement of their altitude has been taken, does not exceed between 200 and 300 feet above the level of the sea, are cultivated to the top ; and most of the interjacent valleys are now brought under tillage, to which great encouragement has been given by several proprietors, particularly of late, in cleaning and straighting water-courses, so as to facilitate the means of drainage, and prevent flooding. The peninsular situation of Buchan, at least the distance it stretches into the sea, and its general want of shelter from hills or woods, render the climate upon the whole rather humid and chil- ly, although it is no doubt undergoing an improvement by the re- moval of stagnant water and marshes, and the increase of plan- tations and quickset hedges. * Yet the number of individuals of both sexes that reach a very advanced period of lifcj^ and the rareness of epidemics or any prevailing ailment, would warrant an inference, that. the locality is rather salubrious than other- wise. Of late, however, to whatever cause it may be owing, the stone and urinary connplaints seem to be on the increase. In- stances, too, of natural small-pox, owing most probably to the omis- sion or improper application of vaccine matter, have become much * In the beginning' of the year 1837f when this Account was drawn up, there were living in the parish no fewer than five persons, each above ninety- five years of age, and one of them just approaching the end of a century. 140 ABERDEENSHIRE. more frequent of late than they used to be, though rarely fatal. Much credit is due to the medical practitioners, who not only be- stow gratuitously upon the sick poor their skill and attendance when required, but also often supply them with medicines and cor- dials at their own expense.* * The foUowing statement of the times at which the oat seed and oat hanrett com- menced and ended, on farms that may be regarded as being rather above the average in point of earliness, during the period which has elapsed since the publication of the last Statistical Account of the parish, will be of use, not only in showing the general - character of the seasons during that time, but as furnishing a means of comparing the climate of this district of country with that of any other where similar information can be procured. Oat Harvest. Commence. Ended. 1796, Sept. 20, Oct. 20. 1797, Do. 13, Do. 13. 1798, Aug. 27, Sept. 16. 1799, Oct. 6, Nov. 12. 1800, Sept. 9, Oct. 12. 1801, Do. 2, Do. 1. 1802, Do. 29, Do. 26. 1803, Aug. 27, Do. 4. 1804, Sept. 10, Do. 5. 1805, Do. 23, Do. 24. 1806, Do. 22, Do. 15. 1807, Do. 15, Nov. 7. 1808, Aug. 27, Oct. 3. 1809, Sept. 19, Do. 23. 1810, Oct. 2, Nov. 5. 1811, Sept. 13, Oct. 18. 1812, Oct. 7, Nov. 16. 1813, Sept. 9, Oct. 4. 1814, Do. 21, Do. 22. 1815, Do. 9, Do. 9. 1816, Oct. 14, Nov. 28. 1817, Do. 1, Oct. 31. 1818, Aug. 31, Do. 8. 1819, Do. 24, Sept. 18. 1820, Sept. 11, Oct. 5. 1821, Do. 13, Do. 6. 1822, Aug. 16, Sept. 10. 1823, S«pt. 19, Oct. 28. 1824, Do. 9, Do. II. 1825, Aug. 26, Sept. 29. 1826, July 31, Aug. 29. 1827, Sept 3, Oct. 25. 1828, Aug. 23, Sept. 17. 1829, Sept. 7, Oct. 9. 1830, Do. 10, Do. la 1831, Aug. 13, Sept. 10. 1832, Sept. 11, Oct. 13. 1833, Do. 2, Do. 10. 1834, Aug. 15, Sept. 2. 1835, Sept. 2, Do. 25. 1836,t Aug. 29, Oct. 25. t An intense frost, followed by successive falls of snow, set in on 9th March this year, and continued almost without intermission for nearly six weeks. Between the even* ing of the 29th and the morning of the 30th March, the snow fell at an average from 10 to 12 inches in depth. The seed cast into the ground before the beginning of this severe weather did not appear to have sustained much damage, unless where it was imperfectly harrowed in. Sowing of Oats. Commenced. Ended. 1796, Mar. 18, Apr. 12. 1797, Do. 6, Mar. 31. 1798, Do. 26, Apr. 11. 1799, Do. 24, Do. 24. 1800, Do. 26, Do. 11. 1801, Do. 3, Do. 10. 1802, Do. Do. 8. 1803, Do. 25; Do. 23. 1804, Do. 31, Do. 30. 1805, Do. 14, Mar. 27. 1806, Do. 31, Apr. 11. 1807, Apr. 8, Do. 23. 1808, Mar. 14, Do. 9. 1809, Do. 15, Do. 12. 1810, Do. 30, Do. 26. 1811, Do. 18, Do. 15. 1812, Apr. 7, Do. 2a 1813, Mar. 16, Mar. 26. 1814, Apr. 2, Apr. 25. 1815, Mar. 6, Apr. 3. 1816, Do. 29, Do. 20. 1817, Do. 17, Do. 3. 18I8» Do. 24, Do. 15. 1819, Do. 13, Do. 10. 1820, Do. 20, Do. 17. 1821, Apr. 3, Do.i28. 1822, Feb. 28, Mar. 2a 1823, Mar. 16, May 2. 1824, Apr. 5, Apr. 16. 1825, Mar. 21, Mar. 29. 1826, Do. 6, Do. 21. 1827, Do. 27, Apr. 6 1828. Do. 11, Do. 28. 1829, Mar. 23, Apr. 24. 1830, Do. 18, Do. 12. 1831, Do. 23, Do. 18. 1832, Feb. 27, Mar. 31. 1833, Mar. 27, Apr. 23. 1834, Do. 3, Da 10. 1835, Do. 16, Do. 4. 1836, Do. 19, Do. 12. 1887, Do. 4, May 9. OLD DEER. HI Hydrography. — There is no natural lake of any considera- tion in the parish. But within the park or pleasure-ground of Pitfour, the seat of George Ferguson, Esq. Captain R. N., there is an artificial one in front of the house, covering more than 25 acres, tastefully designed, abundantly stocked with tench, carp, and Lochleven trout, and crossed in its branches by three neat stone bridges, one with three arches which open ap- proaches to the mansion. This irregular piece of water, made by means of a deep embankment on one side to fill a winding hollow, is skirted nearly round by large trees or young thriving plantations, and has had lately erected on its brink, at the place where the flow or spare water escapes, a very elegant small temple, constructed after the plan of that of Theseus at Athens, and surrounded by thirty- four granite columns. The interior is neatly fitted up as a cold bath. This lake, besides supplying a peculiar and beautiful object in the landscape, and serving as a breeding-place or depot for fresh wa- ter fish, has become the constant habitation of a colony of tame swans, and, at particular seasons of the year, it may be seen occa- sionally almost covered with flocks of wild ducks. The only streams of any considerable size that pass through the parish, are the south and north branches of the Ugie, which blend their waters in the parish of Longside, and flow into the sea toge- ther scarcely a mile N. W. of Peterhead. Owing to the small accli- vity of the ground^ and the numerous bends or turns of the valleys, through which they pass, they make in general a very sluggish and meandering course ; and where pains have not been taken to deepen and straighten their channels, or raise proper embankments, they are apt to overflow after falls of rain, and, unless in particular spots, or in very dry times, to keep wet the flats on each side. Containing as they do a plentiful supply of black or burn-trouts, they afibrd abundance of what is called sport to the angler ; but very few of the salmon tribe, beyond mere fry, are to be found at this distance from the sea. The principal stream, where it passes the church, has not run, perhaps, above ten miles from its source in New Deer, and the surface from which it collects the water that springs from and falls upon the earth, does not exceed fifty square miles. There are several tributary streams of less size, rising in the parish, and some of them driving machinery as they pass along. Most parts of the parish are well supplied with pure spring water ; but there are a few situations ill accommodated in this respect, where pits have been dug in vain forty feet deep. Chalybeates, 142 ABEaDEENSHIRE. pretty richly impregnated with iron, are far from being scarce, but they have been rarely used for medical or other purposes. Geology. — The only rocks that have been wrought and turned to account are granite and limestone. Several of the ridges or small hills seem to be composed entirely of the first named species of fossil^ of different degrees of hardness, and varying, not only in size of grains, and the proportions of constituent materials, but also in colour, from a light to a dark gray. Veins or larger masses of an impure species of lime rock have raised their crops in different peaces, particularly at Hythie, Clochcan Elrick, and Broomhill of Annochie, where the stone has been quarried and burned ; but owing to the smallness of the commodity, or the cost of manufac- turing it, occasioned chiefly by its depth, when the crops are taken off, or the way in which it is overlaid, and in some cases rendered very impure by heterogeneous and solid materials, — the works have been discontinued for some time, and it is likely will not soon be resumed at the three first named places. At Annochie, there is still within reach a considerable body of lime rock, interspersed, however, with dikes, veins, and blocks of gneiss, which, though they present pretty much the same appearance as the limestone in many respects, experienced workmen can in general distinguish by the eye, without applying any other test. The limestone itself is of an impure description, adulterated with a mixture of magnesian earth, which renders it a deleterious manure, especially for hot and light soils, though it is in high repute, and usually preferred to lighter and purer lime, for building purposes. The stone, detached from the rock by iron crows, large hammers, and blasts of gunpowder, is broken by smaller hammers into fragments, as if intended for the substratum of a turnpike road, and calcined in small clump kilns by peats. Sometimes in wet seasons, when peat fuel is scarce or bad, a sprinkling of coal is used in the process. The limeT, when burned, is slacked or reduced to powder by the appli- cation of water. The heterogeneous substances which the fire has not decomposed, or the fused slug caused by the excess of heat, are separated from the dust by a riddle or sieve wrought by the hand, and what passes through the instrument is sold at from 8d. to lOd. per Linlithgow boll. The tenant reports that, for several years back, at an average, he has disposed of 2500 bolls on these terms, and that he has sold, besides, yearly upwards of 180 cubic yards of unbumed stone, which people in the neighbourhood pur- chase at the rate of 9s. a quarter, as it is called, — that is, a heap of OLD DEER. 143 Stones built rudely into something like the form of a cube, 5 feet on each side, four of these measures, or 500 solid feet, being esti- mated to yield 100 bolls of lime. Within two furlongs of the lime quarry, on the lands of Annochie also, are numerous large blocks of pure white quartz, some lying on the surface and others imbedded in the earth. Towards the south side of the parish, and in several other detached districts, such rocks and stones as are found partake chiefly of the silicious character, and can with difficulty be forced by the hammer or any instrument into proper shapes for building. The high ground south of the house of Kinmundy, and the top of the hill of Skel- muir, fully more than one mile and a-half to the westward, and se- parated from the other by a pretty deep and broad valley, are overspread with nodules and fragments of flint. The heart of most of these nodules, when they are broken, contains a cavity, and discloses the impression of a sea shell. In digging gravel pits to find materials for making roads, the constituent parts of granite, felspar^ quartz, and mica are often met with ; all regularly disposed, and exhibiting, till touched, some- what of a rocky appearance, but without the least cohesion among the particles. Phenomena of this kind, and well marked symptoms of stratification, may be traced at difierent elevations, in some in- stances from one side of a valley to a corresponding level on the opposite. There have been, at some period, immense fields of peat moss occupying the low ground, and filling up cavities where there was stagnant water in more elevated situations. But in consequence of the heavy demand that has been long made upon it for fuel and other purposes, and the little care taken to promote its growth, there are but few places now where it is not altogether or almost exhausted, and the spots where it existed either left an unseemly waste, or reduced to tillage. Nor is the destruction of this sub- stance much to be regretted ; for it manifestly tends to deteriorate the climate, by reason of the facility with which, like a sponge, it receives and retains moisture and frost. And if due allowance be made for the time, money, and labour consumed in procuring this commodity, when the place where it is found lies several miles dis- tant from that where it has to be used, the same quantity of heat may be obtained at less cost from sea-borne coal, provided a horse can go by a tolerable road to the port, and return with a load the same day. Boles or logs of hard-wood trees, principally oak, rarely 1 44 ABERDEENSHIUE. if ever fir, some of them considerable as to girth, but of no great length, are found now and then in a tolerable state of preseryation in the mosses. SoiL — The soil, as might naturally be expected in such a variety of surface, is far from being uniform. In some cases, the clayey or argillaceous, and in others the sandy, gravelly, or silicious ingredients prevail. Small, indeed, is the quantity that can be re- garded as alluvial. In several flats and braes, or hill-sides, such soil as there is seems to have been torn with diflBculty from a light coarse sward overlying a mass of ferruginous matter, impervious to water, and next to impenetrable ; or from an inert ochrey sand, te which it is scarcely possible by any means to impart life and fer- tility. It seems utterly beyond the power of man to make a good or profitable subject of such materials as these, although the intro- duction of bone-dust as a manure, and one that appears from use peculiarly well suited for a situation like this, gives the tenant of a dry and hazelly field an advantage which he did not previously possess. It is a pity, however, to see a farmer bestowing a more than due proportion of culture and cost upon ground where, though it is easy to make the plough pass, he can expect no adequate re- turn, while he may have in his possession, and leave neglected, tracts of wet or boggy land, that may be dried and cultivated at an expense, doubtless, great in the first instance, — but for which in the end, especially if those having a permanent interest in the ground give him a proper degree of assistance, he would be much better remunerated. The tops of several bare hills, now covered with nothing but stunted heath, appear to have been cultivated at some former period. There are still visible upon them the marks of crooked ridges, which in all probability were successively gathered and cropped, till they became, in spite of any treatment which the skill or enterprise of the day could employ, absolutely effete, leav- ing balks or intervals between them from which the mould was en- tirely scraped off, wider than the ridges themselves. Though this be rather an unfavourable representation of the actual state of se- veral localities, yet it is but fair to state that the parish in general contains, perhaps, fully as great a proportion of generousand worka- ble soil as is to be found in most districts of the country. In old times, it was the practice to keep a portion of the land near to the farm-steading perpetually in crops of barley, oats, or pease, and to treat the rest as an out-farm, on which they pastured and folded the cattle, and from which they transferred to the dung-pit such OLD DEER. 145 «arth as they could lift, to form with the aDimal manure dropped in winter, and peat-ashes, a compost for deepening and enriching by turns the fields which were destined to constant aratioh. This plan of management served to impoverish one part of the farm, while it benefited another, and was the cause of a distinction which is still observable and spoken of, between infield and ouifieldj not- withstanding a long-continued attempt to bring them nearer to a state of equality by a different andimproved system of husbandry. jBotoity.-— The following is a list of a few plants culled by a scientific friend, which he reckoned as being of the rarer species in the district, viz. — PepHs portuU ' Listera cordata Subularia aquatica Pamaasia palustris Trientalis Europasa Botrychiura Lunaria Menyanthea trifoliata Veronica scutellata Hippuris yulgaris, &c. Fumaria ciaviculata Montia fontana It is not saying much to state, that there is more growing wood in this parish, and much of it in a more thriving condition, than is to be found in any other district of Buchan of an equal, or even of a much greater extent The late James Fei^uson, Esq. of Pitfour was at great pains and cost in forming plantations : and the present proprietor, while he attends carefully to thinning, pruning, and nursing the woods that he found upon the estate, has done a good deal to extend their limits. It is to be regretted, however, that much of his labour and money are lost, as the greater number of the plants put into the ground are either totally de< stroyed by deer, hares, and rabbits, or so much injured as to leave little hope of their ever coming to be trees. About 1100 acres of the property in this parish are occupied by plantations. The father of .the present proprietor of Aden was also at sin- gular pains in raising forest trees, and ornamenting his place or manor. When he succeeded to the property it was rather naked ; but he left on the portion of it immediately attached to the do- main, a great many acres of thriving wood, not short of 300 acres, I should suppose, in masses, clumps, belts, and hedge-rows. Mr Ferguson of Kenmundy is not much indebted to his an- cestors for the care they took to enrich and beautify the estate he inherited in this way ; but since he came to have the command of it, he has himself planted fully 90 acres, a considerable part of which, though young, bodes well. On the estate of Dens, belonging to the Rev. John Stuart Bur- nett, an English clergyman, there is a plantation, embosoming or skirting some corn fields, probably altogether 70 or 80 acres in ABERDEEN. K 146 ABERDEENSHIRE. extent, of pretty well-grown . Scotch fir, interspersed with some hard-wood, and some larch more recently planted. Beech and spruce seem to be the kinds of wood that generally thrive best ; but there are to be seen in different places, fair spe- cimens of most other species of trees, natural or domesticated, in the north of Scotland, particularly ash, elm, silver-fir, larch, and our own native pine. The cold saline piercing blasts from the sea, meeting with little to temper or turn them aside as they sweep over the surface, are undoubtedly adverse to the growth of wood. Zoology. — There is not much curious or rare in the zoology of this parish. It may be noticed, however, that rabbits have so mul- tiplied within the protected grounds, as to have become a pest to farmers and foresters. Their number and prolifickness may in part be judged of from this fact, that, notwithstanding about half a score of years back, they were scarcely known to exist in a wild state; nearly 12,000 were shot or snared in the course of one year, principally in the policies and woods that lie round the house of Pitfour. In the north, which is the best wooded side of the pa- rish, roe-deer and fallow, the progeny of a few that escaped from a neighbouring park, now become wild, are also pretty numerous* Hares, where care is bestowed in protecting the game, are, many think, more than sufficiently plentiful for all useful purposes, while in several respects they are obviously destructive. The cultiva- tion of moors, mosses, and bogs has not favoured the increase or preservation of grouse and snipes, so that of these there are com- paratively few. Several varieties of wild ducks are far from being scarce. Wild geese occasionally visit the country in seed-time. Partridges in good seasons are abundant Of woodcocks, many scores have been shot in the course of a winter. The ordinary birds of passage, cuckoos, plovers, corn-rails, swallows, &c. never fail to come and go at their stated times. Captain Ferguson some years ago introduced a brood of pheasants, which, from being well attended to and protected, have prospered and spread in the quar- ter. II. — Civil History. Deer, if not the first, was probably one of the first places in Buchan where a Christian church was erected. There is a le-^ gend, that when some pious individuals formed the design of build* ing a house for the worship of God, and selected such spots, one after another, as their own judgment, inclination, or convenience OLD DEEIU 147 might have led them to prefer, while they saw no person, they beard a voice thus accost them : *< It it DOC here, it is not here. That ye*re to big the Kirk o' Deer, But on the tap o* Tillery, Where many a corpse shall after lie." A church accordingly was built on a knoll or small mount, em- braced by a semicircular bend of the Ugie, and, as was customary, a piece of ground around it was set apart for a burfal-place, so that the weird is fully verified, in the great number of interments that have taken place, during the lapse of centuries, in a wide and po- pulous parish. There are visible proofs still remaining that this parish was for- merly the scene of warfare, occasioned by family feuds, civil strife, or the invasion of the country by foreigners. On the top of the hill of Bruxie, and at Den of Howie, near Fetterangus, there are traces of fortifications and encampments; and near the foot of Arkey-brae, there is a cluster of tumuli, pointing out the graves of warriors who fell in a bloody contest reported to have taken place between Edward, the brother of King Robert Bruce, and Gum- ming, the Earl of Buchan, with their followers and clansmen. In the insurrection of 1745-6, there were risings in behalf of the exiled Stuarts, many of the heads of families being attached to the Jacobite interest That rough partizan of the fallen cause, Gordon of Glenbucket, instead of attaching himself to the main army, extended his barbarities into the lowlands ; and as the Laird of Kinmundy was known to favour the opposite side, he shewed some of his rude civilities to that house, particularly to the lady, who was left in command of the garrison. Present State of Property. — The three principal landholders re- side in the parish. Captain Ferguson of Pitfour ; Mr Ferguson of Kinmundy; and Mr Russell of Aden. There are six others who have estates here, viz. the Honourable William Gordon of Ellon, proprietor of Skelmuir; the Rev. J. S. Burnett has Dens and Little Crichie ; Mr Buchan of Auchmacoy, Knock ; Mr Gordon of Nethermuir, Kidshill and 'Greenbrae ; Lord Lovat a portion of Skillimarno, at the north extremity of the parish ; and Mr Forbes Irvine of Schivas, the pendicle of Cairncummer. Besides what belongs to these individuals, between a fifth and a sixth part of the whole parish, estimated according to the valued rent, is mortified pro- perty, appertaining to various charitable trusts. Clachriah, &c. pur- chased lately from Pitfour, belongs to the Trustees of the late Mr Gor- 148 ABERDEENSHIRE. Jon of Murtle, who are vested with discretionary power, and have ap- plied the greater part of the proceeds to the endowment of a school for educating poor girls in Aberdeen, and the establishment there of something like parochial schools ; Upper Crichie, Annochie, and Elrick, to the Trustees of the late Andrew Simpson of Colliehill, who destined the first-named place to endow a hospital, now con- joined with that of Mr Gordon of Sillerton's, for educating the sons of poor burgesses in the same city, and the two last for the behoof of the ordinary poor there. Kinaddie was likewise left by the late Mr Burnett of Dens for the same purpose, as long as it should not be necessary to have recourse to a legal assessment, .and, in that event, to pass to the Infirmary or Lunatic Asylum. The same gentleman bequeathed a small property, yielding at present upwards of L. 40 of gross rental, under a certain trust, to the kirk-session, for the benefit of certain descriptions of poor on his own estates in the parish. He has Stipulated, however, that it shall revert to the heir of the family estate, seven years after the permanent establishment of a poor rate shall be found necessary.* This small fund is eminently beneficial, and the ap« plication of it is so judiciously guarded, that it hplds forth no en-* couragement for paupers to settle on the estate from the prospect of sharing in the benefit It is intended chiefly for those, who, after an industrial residence of seven years, have been reduced to straits by the infirmities of age or severe sickness, a preference be- ing shown to persons of good character. Parochial Registers. — The parochial and session registers are incomplete. It is generally alleged that the registers anterior to the death of Mr Keith, the last Episcopal incumbent, and the set- tlement of Mr Gordon, 1710-1 1, were carried off. The Episco- pal clergyman at Old Deer has or had in his possession a regis- ter of baptisms previous to that period, in a good state of preser- vation. There are no records of proceedings that stretch farther back ; and, besides that most of the books seem at times to have been imperfectly kept since, there is many a hiatus to interrupt their continuity. Antiquities. — The only ruinous building within the parish en- titled to notice, is the Abbey of Deer. What remains of this an- cient edifice is now situated within and protected by the high wall which encloses the fruit and kitchen garden of Pitfour. Before pains were taken to preserve the ruins, the fabric, which appears from the * lliis apprehended contingency has now taken place. OLD DEER. 149 ground plan^ yet marked by the remaining fragments of walls, to have been originally a very extensive though rude piece of mason-* ry, was in a great measure dilapidated for the purpose of con- structing houses and dikes in the neighbourhood, and till a late proprietor of Pitfour took the trouble of clearing away part of the rubbish, and repairing some of the principal walls, according to the original plan of architecture, if the phrase may be used in re* spect to so plain a style of building, — the form and dimensions of the edifice could not be ascertained. The church, situated on the north side, has been of considerable size, built in the form of a cross, with chancel, nave, and transept, in fair proportions. The greatest length, taken internally from east to west, is 150 feet, and the greatest breadth, where is the transept, 90 feet. The roof of the nave, itself 38^ feet wide, appears to have bad, besides the support of the walls, that of a row of stone pillars, the bases of which are still visible, extending from end to end about 17 feet distant from one another, and considerably nearer the north than the south side of the building. This religious house was founded about the beginning of the thirteenth century, by one of the Cum- mings, then Earl of Buchan, and first occupied by a colony of Cis- tertian monks from the Abbey of Kinloss, in Moray. A name- sake of the founder was the builder. Not many years ago, a lin- tel over a door in the ruinotis castle of Inverallochy, parish of Lon- may, was removed, which is said to have had on it this inscription, or words to the same effect : ** ly Jordan Cummin, indwaller here. Got lands of Inverallochy for building Abbey Deer.*^ The abbey was suppressed at the Reformation, and erected in- to a temporal lordship in favour of Robert, the Earl Marischal's second son, created Lord Altrie. The newly created peer dying without issue, the title became extinct, and the estate was incorpo- rated with that of the head of the family. The revenue of the in- stitution, as appears from the collector's books, still or lately ex- tant, is stated at L. 572, 8s, 6d. of money ; 65 chalders, 7 bolls, 1 firlot, 3 pecks of meal; 14 bojis of wheat; and 14 chalders 10 bolls of bear. If we advert to the extent of territory set apart for the support of the house, and to the rents which the lands may be supposed to yield to their proprietors at the present day, the annual income of this monastic establishment must have been con- siderable. Among the ancient erections we ought to include the Druidical 150 ABERDEENSUIHE. temples, or circles, as they are commonly called. These appear to have been more than usually numerous here, although vestiges only of four or five now remain. The rest have been destroyed for the sake of the stones, or to clear the way for cultivating the ground they occupied. The one that is most entire and best ex- posed to public view, is on the top of the hill of Parkhouse. The principal or altar stone, placed as usual on the south side, and ly- ing with its ends east and west, is 14^ feet long, 5^ feet broad, and 4^ feet deep. If a third part of the solid contents or measure which these dimensions would yield, be deducted for defects or in- equalitiea in the stone, the gross weight of it, at 1 1 cubic feet per ton, would still exceed 21 tons. The stone belongs to the primi- tive trap. The diameter of the space inclosed, or comprehended by the circle, is 48 feet. Only four of the upright stones remain, and are about 14 feet asunder. *^ At the distance of 500 yards, on the north side of the same hill," observes the author of the last Statistical Account of the parish, ^' were not long ago the ruins of a small village^ supposed to have been the residence of the Druids," (but commonly called by the country people Pights' or Picts' house's.) *' A number of little yards were to be seen all around it," every vestige of which is now obliterated by the process of culture. " It consisted of 50 or 60 mossy huts, from 6 to 12 feet square, irregularly hud- dled together. Hence it got the name of the bourachs. The walls were built of stone and clay ; the floors were paved with stones." Modem Buildings^ State of the Population^ S^c- — The three re- sident heritors have neat, commodious, and, for the extent of their estates, sufficiently spacious houses, with suitable courts of offices, either entirely built, or extensively repaired and greatly enlarged by themselves. The mansion of Pitfour, including furniture, and what has been laid out in constructing its various useful and or- namental appendages, improving the park and policies, making approaches, &c. has cost the present owner, according to his own admission, and that of his men of business, nearly L. 80,000. III. — Population. Owing chiefly to the building and increase of two villages within the last sixty years, viz. Crichie or Stewartfield and Fetterangos, the former containing, according to a list of inhabitants recently taken, 573, and the latter, 216 souls ; and the settlement of croft- ers and cottagers in spots which used to lie waste, — the population of the parish has increased greatly since 1750, and is still in the . J OLD DEER. 151 increasing ratio. The only other collection of inhabited houses entitled to the name of a village is that of Old Deer, contiguous to the parish church. This village contained, at the time the census of the other two was last taken, 211 persons of all ages, and has received little increase or alteration for a long time. In the year 1787 or 1788, a careful census was taken of the people, distinguishing the different religious denominations, with a view to ascertain what accommodation it would be expedient to provide for those belonging to the Establishment in a new church, which was then about to be built. The gross population at that time is reported to have been 3267, of whom 962 are set down as being Episcopalians, Papists, or Seceders, amounting together to considerably more than one-fourth of the whole people. Ac- cording to the census made by order of Government in 1831, the number of inhabitants had grown to 4110, and in 1836, it would appear, from a careful investigation of the matter, to have then increased to no fewer than 4428 individuals. The number of religious sects or persuasions is much greater than it was in 1788, and, if the investigation alluded to be correct, the proportions among such sects as then existed have been greatly altered ; but the ratio which the various Dissenting bodies now bear to the Establish-^ ment, seems to remain much the same, since the total number of full-grown persons presently in full communion with the Esta- blished Church appears to be 1708, and of those in the same state belonging to all other denominations of Christians, 645. As no register of burials is kept, and parents, particularly those belonging to Dissenting communions, are far from being punc- tual in getting their children's baptisms or ages recorded,' an ac- count to be depended on cannot be given of the number of births and burials that happen annually. But the average number of marriages for the last seven years, counting a marriage only when the female belongs to the parish, is 26. There are 259 families in the three villages, and 725 in rural situations, thus giving on an average in the former case nearly 4, and in the latter somewhat less than 5 individuals to a family. Of these families, reckoning by the religious persuasion of the person who is at the head of each, there are 714 belonging to the Established Church; 83 Episcopalian; 157 of the Original or United Secession; and 30 of different Dissenting bodies, chiefly Congregational ists. Only one person, a boy, is known to be altogether deaf and dumb; but there are 4 totally blind. No fewer than 10 persons 152 ABEUDEENSinilE. belonging to the parish, all related to poor families, are unhappi- ly possessed of disordered or weak understandings, two of whooi are violently insane, and the rest fatuous or imbecile. The following may be rehed upon as a pretty accurate state- ment of the present population in respect to professional employ- ments, &c. ApoUieoary, . 1 Innkeepers, 6 Bachelors and widowers above 50 Labourers, 134 years of uge» 92 Male servants above 20 years, 250 Bakers, 6 Ditto under ditto, 163 Blacksmiths, 24 Male teacher on own adventure, 1 Brewers, 2 Maltsters, 4 Carpenters, 46 Masons, 26 Carriers* 5 Merchants or shop-keepers, 19 Clergymen, 5 Millers, . . • 10 CrofVers with a piece of ground. 401 Painter, 1 Dress-makers & seamstresses, about ; 20 Parochial schoolmasters, . 3^ Dyers, 5 Physicians, . • •* . 3 Kxcise-ofiScer, 1 Resident proprietors, H: Farmers, or persons occupying a Shoemakers, . • 47 portion of land sufficient to em- Slater, 1 ploy one plough at least, about 140 Tailors, 23 Farriers, 4 Turners, 2 Female servants above 20 years. 259 Unmarried women above 45 years, 249 Ditto under ditto, 127 Watchmakers, 3 Female teachers, 9 Weavers, male, 51 Fieshers, 4 Do. female, 22 Gamekeepers, 3 73 Gardeners, 9 It were much to be desired that more attention were paid to cleanliness and cheap comforts by the common people, than is the case. But, upon the whole, we think that even the lowest of the peasantry are not in this particular a whit behind those of the same class throughout the district. IV. — Industry. State of Agriculture and Manufactures. — Such is the general state of agricultural knowledge that most farmers, and even crofters, are disposed, as they are usually bound by their tenures, to observe, from beginning to end of their leases, a regular plan of tillage. A five-course shift was the one that for some time till of late, was most in vogue, viz. first year, oats from lea ; second, tur- nip, potatoes, and, when the manure failed, naked fallow ; third, barley, oats, or sometimes wheat, with a due quantity of clover and rye-grass seeds ; fourth, hay or pasture ; and fifth, pasture. Some tenants had, besides these lots, another section, at least, a paddock or small field, in perpetual grass. This short rotation, however, has been found by experience, particularly on loamy and open soils, one that cannot be persisted in with profit, because the fre- quent ploughings and croppings it requires have a tendency to 4 OLD DKER. 153 Exhaust the land, and render it too open and loose ; and it has, in general, been deemed expedient to lengthen the se- ries to six, seven, or eight years, that the land, from getting more rest, as it is called, may become more consolidated and produc- tive. How far the evil that arises from loosening the soil to ex- cess, is remedied by the agricultural instrument lately invented and called a compressor^ is yet here only the subject of experiment. The ground, whether naturally dry or wettish, is still laid out in flat, straight, and narrow ridges, from sixteen to twenty feet broad* Furrow-draining, — although stones in general are pretty plentiful, — is not practised to great extent ; but some trials of it have been made with good effect. Enclosing fields by stone dikes, deep ditches in wet land, and shallow ones in dry situations, with a mound on one side cropped with stones, where stones are not easily provided, or little or no allowance is granted by the landlord for fen- ces, — has become very common of late. — Cattle are found to thrive better when they are allowed to eat, drink, roam, and rest at plea- sure, free from the control of a herd, and the confinement of a house or pen during the heat of summer ; and more of them can be kept within the same bounds enclosed than open. — Hedges of hawthorn, beech, or other wood plants suitable for the purpose, are rare, unless near gentlemen's seats, on account of the expense of rearing them, and the difficulty of making them by any care suffi- cient fences in this climate. It would be judicious, however, to encourage the growth of them, at least, to a certain extent, for the sake of shelter, in conjunction with other means of enclosure. Several persons, the resident heritors especially, have laid out a considerable quantity of land, not under 600 or 700 acres, in i)or- manent pasture, which they let annually at a rent, it may be stated, varying from L. 1, 10s. to L. 4per acre, to cattle-dealers, graziers, and farmers, who can keep a greater stock of bestial in winter than summer on the produce of their farms, when they are kept in the ordinary course of rotation. Both the soil and climate are thought to be better suited for oats, turnip, and pasture, than for wheat or barley. The last two species of grain are on that account sparingly sown. The varieties of oats in most common use are of an early kind, such as white or English barley oats, early Angus oats, po- tato oats, &c In dry and warm soils, liable to be affected by drought, recourse is usually had to those of a later quality, such as late or gray Angus oats, Kildrummy, or what is considered the na- tural oat of the county, JHopetoun oats, &c. The usual quantity 154 ABERDEENSHIRE. of seed is from six to six and a half bushels per imperial acre ; and the returns may be stated, taking an average of seasons, on a good farm, from five to six and a half ; on a bad one, three to four ; and on those of a mixed or indifferent quality, at the va- rious intermediate degrees. From an after statement it will ap- pear that the average return is rather above than below four and a half. Since the turnip husbandry has been fully established, and bone-dust could be purchased at a moderate price, from 2s. 2d. to 2s. 6d. a bushel, to supply the deficiency of home manure, — the growth of peas has been almost discontinued. It is long since farmers used to fatten a part of their winter stock of cattle for the home consumption. That demand, however, was very limited. But of late, the practice of conveying cattle alive in good condition by steam or sailing vessels to London, where a much better price is commonly obtained, has induced many to keep the stots or full-grown animals, which they used to dispose of in Some of the summer markets, to English or south country dealers ; and, when they are fully stall-fed, either to send them directly from themselves, to be sold for their behoof by a commission-agent in the southern metropolis, or to pass them into the hands of a dealer at home, who traffics in that comii\odity. It is not unusual for country graziers or dealers to continue their trade through the winter, and to bargain with farmers for what they can spare of their turnips at so much, from L. 5 to L. 10 per acre, to be con- sumed upon the farm, receiving therewith house accommodation, and a competent quantity of straw for fodder and bedding.- No- thing, for many years, back has contributed more to improve the condition of the farming interest in this part of the world than the discovery and general use of bone manure for the raising of tur- nips, and the easy transport of cattle fattened by them to a distant market. With lime, reckoned favourable, particularly on its first ap- plication to the growth of green crops, the bulk of the land had been saturated, and in many cases supersaturated, so as by an excess of cropping, which almost invariably followed, to have become in many cases a caput mortuum. Feeding, more than forcing manureS} were then wanted; and this desideratum the bones of animals have helped greatly to supply. Had it not been for the favourable cir- cumstances alluded to, in connection with a moderate price for oats, the staple produce here, during the last two or three years, the very low rate of farm produce for a long period before, with little exception, had it continued much longer in a depressed con* OLD DEER. 155 ditioD, would in all probability have placed both the owners and the occupiers of the soil, with many others who depend upon them, directly or indirectly, in a new and perilous situation. Tenants ordinarily are not possessed of much capital beyond what they have invested in stocking and improving their tenements, to enable them to bear up under a heavy and protracted pressure ; and unless their rents could be so adjusted by reference to the current prices of what their farms chiefly yield, so as to rise and fall with the fluctuations in the value of produce, there is a risk of a series of cross seasons obliging them to relinquish their places and voca- tions ; and if this should ever unfortunately be the case, to any considerable extent, it may be difficult to find another set of men possessed of capital, skill, and enterprise to succeed them. It would, therefore, be wise in landlords and tenants to make such arrangements wjth one another, as may enable them to meet, so far as a prudent foresight can avail, without any serious shock, this, to say the least of it, not very improbable contingency. Ad- verting to the ordinary course of seasons and events, and taking, moreover, into account, how the agricultural, like other great na- tional pursuits is liable to be aflfected by the unsettled and restless state of legislation, which has for some time perplexed and discon- certed many classes of the community, we have no right to pre- sume on a lasting continuance of even such prosperity as that with which the country has been for some time providentially favoured. Besides such clauses in leases as those to which I have just refer- red, it would be politic, as well as just in land-owners, to encourage their tenantry, by assisting them to execute all substantial and costly improvements wanted, such as roads, water-courses, ditches, drains, fences, &c. because they thereby put them into a better state for settling with themselves at term time, and, happen what may, provided the occupier pays a due proportion of the expense, these improvements, if judiciously planned and properly executed, must add, beyond what they have cost them, to the value of their property. Indeed, it properly belongs to the proprietor, who either has of himself, or by concert with his neighbours, may get the command of a district, to project and execute many improvements, which, in order to be efiectual, require to be extended over a wider space than the limits of a single tenement. Farms, commencing with such as occupy a pair of horses, and are in the hands of one individual, vary in size from 30 to 500 acres. There are about five score of tenements that can be managed with greater or less 15(J ABEUDEKNSHIRE. ease by one plough ; above thirty that require two ploughs ; seven or eight that cannot be wrought by fewer than three ploughs, at least ; and two that furnish sufiicient employment for five, s ix,or seven. Several of the others, although they have a less field for their operations, are entitled, we doubt not, to a proportional share of credit ; but the occupiers of the two largest fiirms, both gentle- men, well educated, of public spirit, and possessed of some funds, have, in the course of a few years, effected an admirable change^ both as to appearance and value, in the land under their manage- ment* Besides the tenements above-mentioned, there is a very considerable number of small possessions, the holders of which continue with one horse either to associate with a neighbour simi- larly circumstanced, or to mount a yoke of their own, by providing an ox, a stot, or even sometimes a cow, to go alongside his horse in the spring season. Most villagers, and some with small crofts in the country, hire for labouring their lots of ground, or doing other similar services, the ordinary charge being at the rate of Is. 6d. to 2s. for a horse per yoking. The total number of ploughs presently required, or rather actually used in the parish, is as fol- lows, viz. 244 drawn by a pair of horses ; 25 by a pair of oxen ; and 27 by a horse and a nolt animal of some description for a fel* low. It is utterly impracticable, for obvious reasons, to furnish an accurate statement of the amount or value of agricultural stock ; and yet this, if it could be procured, appears to be a very import- ant matter, as it would afford data for comparing the state of the country at one period with that at another, and marking the change for the better or the worse that takes place during the in- terval. As a near approximation to the truth, however, the fol- lowing may be given as the gross amount of live-stock, of all ages, which have been usually kept, summer and winter, for a few years back throughout the parish, taken from lists carefully made up by different individuals acquainted with the several districts, viz. 4347 black cattle, 721 horses, 1019 sheep, and 216 swine. An attempt was made at the same time to ascertain the quantity of grain sown and grown yearly on the several possessions. Owing principally to the irregularity of seasons, there is still greater diflS- culty in ascertaining the fact here than in the former case. The following, however, may be stated as the result : Much to the loss and regret of many, one of these gentlemen has paid the laic debt ef nature since this paragraph was written. OLD DEER. 157 Imperial qiurtera of oats sown, 4451, raised, 20,136 of barley, 72 do. • 447 of wheat, 24 do. 21 Heni oflAind. — The rent of land, as may be readily supposed, is still more various than its quality. Some acres in the immediate vicinity of a village letas high as L.3, 10s. There are farms of a mo- derate size above L.I, 10s. per acre at an average ; and there are others, fully a worse bargain, under a third of that charge. Rent is now generally paid in money, at two terms. In a few late agree* ments for leases, a limited portion, not exceeding a half, is allow- ed to fluctuate according to the fiar prices of victual. Servitudes, once very common, are now rarely exacted ; and what used to be a great and general grievance, when almost every estate was thirled or astricted to a particular mill, and obliged to pay a heavy as- sessment, usually from an eleventh to a sixteenth part of the whole grain crop (with the exception of an allowance for seed and horse-corn,) whether the produce was sold or ground, — is now hap- pily removed, the last of the multures having been converted last year. There are eight meal-mills, six of them with, and two of them without, drying kilns attached. Several of these, lately built, are on a pretty large scale, with granaries, large meal girnals, and a separate machinery for dressing pot-barley, so that the tenants of these mills are enabled to lay themselves out, not merely for working to the mcken and others who may require their services, but also for speculating a little themselves in the purchase of grain, and converting it into meal at their convenience, for a home or distant market. Instead of the miller receiving for workmanship, as was the practice till lately, a specified portion of the produce, the ordinary charge for drying and grinding oats is now sixpence per boll of meal. The only fuel employed to dry the grain is the sids or husks of what has formerly gone through the process. This, compared with the old usage, when all dried their victual at home, and were obliged to keep a kiln on the premises for the purpose, is a very economical arrangement in several respects. Agricultural Live-stock.— -'So one has any thing like a flock of sheep, unless it be the proprietor of Pitfour, who has generally from 200 to 400 of various kinds, which are pastured upon the lawn and some contiguous grass fields. What the family do not require for their own use, are usually sold fat to butchers. There are a few Merinos and Bakewells ; but the ordinary animals to be found about farm towns, or in the custody of crofters, are of mixed and miscellaneous breeds. The prevailing species of black«cattle, 158 ABERDEENSHIRE. for which the district has obtained some celebrity, is dodded or humble, of good symmetry, rather above the middle size, and upon the whole good milkers. WithiD the last dozen of years, the Tees- water has been introduced and propagated, pure or as crosses, to considerable extent The blending of the two breeds has tended much to increase the size, though some allege to deteriorate the quality of the stock. Of this, however, there is scarcely any doubt, that a great increase of carcase and value may be obtained, without much additional cost,, from a judicious mixture, and with moderate keep, now that the necessity of making cattle travel southward is removed, and they can be sent direct to London on shipboard at no very high charge. A first cross from a Buchan cow and a Teeswater bull is commonly accounted the most profi- table beast for the market. Some have begun to make experi- ments on the Hereford breed ; but the process is not yet sufficiently advanced to warrant any practical conclusion as to the suitableness of this stock to our pasture and climate. Calves are in a few cases allowed to suck, but generally are fed from the pail. There is nothing particularly deserving of notice in the kinds of horses used and bred for husbandry purposes. As the soil is generally light, and the greater proportion of the fields free from steep as- cents, the animals usually preferred are rather of a slender and active than of a heavy make, and are of a moderate size. Agricultural Association. — There is in the district an Agricultu- ral Association of many years standing, though of late remodelled} which holds its regular meetings here, for promoting and suggest- ing improvements in husbandry. Each member pays 5s. annually to form a fund for premiums, given for the best specimens of breed- ing stock, the best samples of seed oats, &c. as awarded by judges selected for the purpose. An additional half-crown is contributed by several, if not by most, of the members for procuring a few pe- riodicals and books upon agriculture, to be circulated among the contributors. There are still two lint-mills kept up, and occasionally but im- perfectly employed. The culture of flax was almost entirely discontinued a few vears back, but of late a little more has beea done in that line. There are two wool-mills, with spinning jennies, and looms for weaving woollen cloth. At one of them, Millbrake, the copartnery of proprietors, the most of whom are operatives themselves, besides working to the public, to which the operations OLD DEER. 159 ofthe. other, at Aden, are chiefly restricted, manufacture, on their own adventure, considerable quantities of the coarser sorts of woollen cloth, and of yarn for stockings. The number of hands of both sexes and of all ages, usually employed in the different de- partments of the work is about 30, receiving ^from 12s. to Ids. weekly of wages. This larger establishment has a dye-house and a waulk or fulling-mill. There are other two dyers in separate stations possessed of similar mills, who tind pretty steady and abundant employment from the country. Connected with manufactures, there are, in addition to such as work almost exclusively for people in the country, no fewer than about 47 persons, some male, some female, presently employ- ed, for the most part, in the vtUage of Stewartfield, weaving linen yarn of different degrees of fineness, for the large house at Broadford, Aberdeen, which was erected by Mr Maberly, and now belongs to Messrs Richard and Co. As the hands are paid by the piece, they are not obliged to labour any precise number of hours a day. An expert and active individual would earn at the present rate of prices, about 6s. or 7s. in the space of ten or twelve hours. Were any change of circumstances to remove or greatly diminish this employment, many a poor villager and cot- tager, who derives from it a moderate livelihood, would be at a loss how to earn their bread. The state of the country, especially as it affects infirm or aged females, is altered much for the worse, by the introduction and extensive use of machinery for spinning flax, and knitting stockings. No farther back than the beginning of the present century, any woman could have found more work in this way than it was in her power to accomplish, and, if she was tolera- bly acquainted with the business, could have won with ease, and by a species of work well suited to the sex, from 8s. to 4s. a-week. Now, it requires no small interest to find even occasionally some- thing to do in that line, and the allowance is scarcely a third of what it then was. This cause alone, though it stands not alone, might account for the increase of pauperism, and the proportion- ate demand on public charity. If those in better circumstances could devise means for procuring employment, and giving mode- rate remuneration, to such as need and could profit by it, relief administered in this form would be incomparably more serviceable than a direct alms of the same value. It would do much to keep alive that honourable spirit of industry and independence, so far as independence consists in a desire not to be burdensome to others, 160 ABEKDEENSHIRE. which has long adorned our peasantry, and been a fair feature of our national character. Associations of benevolent and patriotic individuals formed with this end in view at Elgin and in other places, are said to do much good at little expense. ^V. — Parochial Economy. Roads and Public Conveyances. — There are only two turnpike roads in the parish, crossing one another at Mintlaw in Longside, the one in the direction of north to south, leading from Fraser- burgh to Aberdeen, and the other of east to west, from Peterhead to Banff. The former extends in Old Deer over a space of about eight miles ; and the latter, of four. Mail-coaches pass and re- pass along both lines daily. A stage coach also, for the greater part of two years back, has been in the use of travelling between Aberdeen and Old Deer every day in summer, and twice or thrice a week in winter. It is much against the ease and speed of jour- neying in the direction it takes, that the road for five miles from the starting-place here is very imperfectly made, and fully worse planned. A new road is much wanted, and has been long project- ed, passing nearly in a straight line from the Banff turnpike near the village of Old Deer towards Ellon, and through an extensive tract of waste or ill cultivated country, which is of difficult access at present. The opening up of a communication in this route would be a matter of great public utility — shortening the distance to Aberdeen by several miles. Were some of the heritors, through whose ground it would pass, to make the greater part of the road at their own expense, it is probable they might soon find that they were not great losers in so doing. Nor is this the only direction where the want of good roads is felt. Several other districts are very ill situate in this respect. Indeed, unless the landed interest in general see the policy of pursuing the course chalked out for them by several spirited proprietors, and make roads where they are wanted in their own estates at their own expense, the money levied by statute might be found sufficient to keep them in a proper state of repair, but in most cases is utterly inadequate to accomplish the whole object. The nearest post-town is Mintlaw in Longside, about two miles from the village of Old Deer, and three from Stewartfield, from both of which places a runner, paid by the public, goes twice a- day to the post-office. State of the Parish Church and other Ecclesiastical Matiers.^^ The parish church, fitted up to contain 1200 sitters, was built io OLD DEER. 161 1786^ and tbe manse in 1832. The offices are of different ages. The stipend, as settled and modified by the proper court in 1824, consists of 16 chalders of victual, one-half barley (Linlithgow measure), and the other half oatmeal, paid according to the fiar prices, which, whatever be the cause, are almost invariably for the county of Aberdeen, the lowest by far throughout Scotland. The glebe is considerably above the statute and common size ; and, owing to the improvements it has received from the present in- cumbent and his predecessors, though in all probability the greater part of it some time ago was a profitless waste, might be let, si- tuate as it is, at from L. 40 to L. 50 a-year. A neat chapel, capable of containing about 700 sitters, was built in 1834 in the south-east extremity of New Deer, by which a por- tion of this parish lying to the south is so far accommodated, as well as part of New Deer, Ellon, and Tarves, comprehending al- together a population of at least 1500 souls, the nearest of whom to any other place of worship connected with the Establishment is distant between three and four miles. The expense of erec- tion was defrayed by subscriptions from the heritors and tenants of the district, collections from most of the churches belonging to the presbyteries of Deer and Ellon, and a liberal grant from the General Assembly's Committee on Church Extension. There is no debt upon the building; and the four clergymen whose pa- rishes are accommodated have agreed, with the assistance of a licensed preacher, to have in it every Sabbath the regular order of public service, until some better provision than a small sum arising from seat rents, the only revenue at present, can be ob- tained for the settlement and support of an ordained 'clergyman specially invested with a pastoral charge. The collections are appropriated to the benefit of the poor. Another chapel was contracted for and built in 1837, on the south extremity of Lonmay, and near the north boundary of this parish, from resources similar to those above specified, for the accommo- dation of the most remote inhabitants of Strichen, and of the other two parishes just named. Ceuld means be procured for building and endowment, there is also much need of a church, with its requisite appendages, to- wards the south-east corner of this parish, which would be within a convenient distance of the remote parts of Lx)ngside, Cruden, and Ellon. Collections, not illiberal, have been made in the parish church ABERDEEN. L 162 ABERDEENSHIRE. from lime to time, for the propagation of Christianity in foreign parts for the education of youth, and for the purposes of Church Extension. There has been for many years a Bible Society in Buchan, which has usually held its annual meeting in the chureh al OM Deer. The number of communicants, hitherto increasing mueh in the same ratio as the population of the parish, that may be slated as attending on any particular occasion of dispenmng the Lord's Supper, is about 1500; but the total number of persons in full communion is about 1700. Poor. — The average amount of collections for the poor, augaient- ed also of late with the necessity, though not in the due proportion, may be set down at about L. 110. This, with the interest of some money placed under the management of the kirk-session, arising from bequests, donations, fines, &c. has enabled them to distribute for the relief of the poor, and some small contingent expenses, as fol- lows, viz. in 1831, L. 139, 3s. 3id. ; in 1832, L. 155, Os. 4d.; in 1833, L. 168, 18s. 8d. ; in 1834, L. 175, 16s. 2d. ; and in 1835, L. 184, 3s. 74d. The average number of persons, or rather of families getting supply, each of these years, is considerably above 100, varying, according to circumstances, from L. 7 to little more than L. 1 to regular pensioners, and descending to still smaller sums for some of those who require and receive only occasional aid. The poor's funds are much assisted by the rents of the piece of ground mortified by the late Mr S. Burnett of Dens, already no- ticed, and by the periodical receipt of L. 50 from a fund left by the same munificent gentleman, under the management of the synod of Aberdeen, for the benefit of the poor throughout all the parishes within the county. To complete an account of the means which the kirk-session presently possesses for helping the poor, it remains to he stated that, in addition to the interest of a legacy of L. 100 from two parishioners (Mr and Mrs Florence, late at West Crichie,) for the special behoof of pauper lunatics, most of the Dissenting bodies are in the practice of making a collection an- nually for the same purpose, and that L. 4 a year have been re- ceived from the proprietor of Pitfour to be distributed among the indigent on his own estate, and half that sum from the trustees on the lands of Clachriah, to be disposed of in a similar manner. Education, — There are three parochial schoolmasters provisioned by statute since 1829. Each of their seminaries is between three 4 .■ i OLD DEER. 163 and four miles distant from the others. The two last established, at Shannas and Clochean, had for a few years a teaching apart- ment and other accommodations provided for them voluntarily by the heritors and people, and a small salary each from the General Assembly's Committee on Highland Schools. The land-owners, however, much to their credit, at the last adjustment of salary in terms of the Act 1802, not only agreed to give the maximum sa- lary required, in the case of there being more schools than one established in a parisbj L. 51 and odds, but have since, of their own accord, very generously assessed themselves for L. 20 more, in order to bring the two worst provided teachers within reach of getting the benefit of the Dick Bequest The original, and what may be considered as the principal, teacher, from the site of the school being at Old Deer, has Lb 31, 6s. 7d. of yearly salary, and each of the other two L. 20. The number of scholars fluctuates according to the season of the year and other circumstances, from 40 to 100 at each. The school-fees actually collected average about L 30, and the teachers have hitherto received nearer L. 30 than L. 20 from the Trustees of the late Mr Dick. There are other two parochial schools, the one at Mintlaw in Longside, and the other at Denhead in Lonmay, that lie contiguous to, and accommodate, certain districts of this parish. There is also a teacher, whose school is well attended and well taught, settled some years ago, with a small salary furnished by the representatives of one of the heritors, and some of the principal tenants, on the west boundary between Old and New Deer, about one-half of the scholars being from this parish. And in the village of Stewartfield, there is seldom wanting a person who keeps a school on his own adventure, without receiving any other remuneration for his services than what arises from fees. Different females, here and there, receive girls and children to be taught needle-work with reading; so that, at the seasons of the year most convenient for school atten- dance,'nearly 500 young persons are attending some educational in- stitution. Libraries. — There is no library yet instituted, strictly speaking parochial ; but there are fully 200 volumes belonging to the ori- ginal parish school, purchased from the interest of money left for the purpose by a Mr Shirras, a native of this parish, who died in America. Friendly Societies. — There remains now only one of these, the Society of Hammermen, which is in a tolerably flourishing state. iG4 ABERDEENSHIRE. Savings Banks. — A bank of this description was opened here in 1825 ; and the stock, lodged chiefly, if not solely, by persons of small capital, in the rank of servants or mechanics, has been gra- dually augmenting. The amount of funds presently, or, at the time of the last annual meeting, under the charge of the directors, is L.1576, 5s. lOd. belonging to 98 depositors. Mrs Ferguson of Pitfour, with a very praiseworthy intention, has been mainly instrumental in organizing a Penny-a- week Clothing So- ciety, after the model of some similar institutions that have been tried and found beneficial in England. The object in view is to promote a spirit of industry and economy among the poor, by inducing them to pay a penny every week to a collector, in the hope that some indivi* duals in better circumstances will encourage the scheme by an equal payment for the behoof of one or more in whom they may feel a special interest, — so that by the accumulation of both sums, amounting to 8s. 8d. at the end of the year, means may be obtained to purchase for them some comfortable and often much wanted articles of wearing apparel or bedding. Fair 8 J Sfc. — The principal fairs are Aikey, held on the Wednes- day after the second Tuesday of July O. S. and Dustan or St Dustan's, on the corresponding day of December, both principally for the sale of cattle and horses, although, not many years back, there used to be brought to them a considerable quantity and variety of commodities manufactured at home. It seems to have been the intention, if not the usage, to have a fair here every month through- out the year; but, with the exception of the two mentioned, and three others of inferior note, viz. on second Thursday of January O Sw, on second Thursday of March O.S., and one lately established in September, all the rest have entirely disappeared. Fuel — There is no very extensive and deep field of peat moss re- maining. Yet there are several districts or spots where fuel of that kind is still procured, Hythie, Clachriah, Greenbrae, Clochcan, Annochie, Blackpots, Skelmuir, and Kinmundy. The Moss of Deer, as well as some of those just mentioned, is nearly exhausted ; but this circumstance is not much to be regretted, because, all things considered, sea-borne coals can be procured at fully as cheap a rate in most cases, and because it is to be expected that when these damp and soft wastes are removed, and the places where they were, brought into tillage, the climate in the vicinity will be greatly improved. OLD DEER. \65 Miscellaneous Observations. Upon the whole, we conceive, that within the last forty years, great improvements have been made upon the value, comfort, and aspect of the country. In course of that period, the two great lines of communication by turnpike roads have been opened up, several other useful roads have been formed anew or greatly re- paired, — much barren land has been brought into cultivation, — a greatly improved system of husbandry introduced, — mill-multures with thirlage to mills abolished, — more attention paid to the selec- tion and breeding of live-stock, — leases of moderate duration sub- stituted for liferent tenures, — a greater facility of market provided for farm produce, — and a more liberal allowance granted by pro- prietors generally to their tenants for houses, fences, and drainage, — while they' themselves, in consequence of improvements made by themselves or their tenantry, the changed value of money, and an ex- cessive competition for tenements, when encouragement or opportu- nity is afforded for it, — have had their rent-rolls greatly increased. The actual state of the different properties in the parish in this re- spect, at present, has not been ascertained; but, reason ingfrom known facts, there can be little doubt that, if the ground in the natural oc- cupation of the heritors were fairly let, the gross rental would exceed by about a half in sterling money, the old Scotch valuation of L.7127, 16s. -8d. Nor is there a less marked alteration in the dress, diet, furniture, and manners of almost every class of the people. Whether the real piety, virtue, and happiness of the com- munity have progressed in the same ratio, may well be questioned. January 1840. PARISH OF FINTRAY. PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JOHN LESLIE, \ Mini^u^M THE KEV. WILLIAM LESLIE, A. & S. /^»'"«*^'' L — Topography and Natural History. Same. — The name of this parish is supposed to be Gaelic, and to signify the fair bank or boundary of the river. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is situated in that district of the county of Aberdeen which is called Formartin, and extends from five to six miles in length along the north bank of the river Don, and from three to four in breadth — containing about fifteen square miles. Boundaries^ Sfc. — It is bounded on the south by the river Don, which separates it from the parishes of Dyce, Kinellar, and Kin* tore; by the parish of Keith-hall, on the north and west; and by New Machar, on the east. Its shape has some resemblance to that of an Irish harp, with the broad end turned to the east The ground rises gradually from the river towards the north to the height of perhaps 300 feet ; but there is nothing in this pa-^ rish that deserves the name of a hill. It sinks again towards the north boundary of the parish. Climate, — The climate, in general, is dry, early, and healthy ; and from the extent of ditches, drains, and other improvements which are carried on, — partly by the heritors and partly by the ten- ants, — the climate will be much improved. Hydrography. — The only river connected with this parish is the Don, already mentioned, which runs from west to east, and falls into the sea near Old Aberdeen. There are three burns also, which supply as many meal and barley mills, with a kiln attached to each of them. Geology. — The parish abounds with granite of excellent qua- lity ; and there is also some limestone ; but, owing to the scar- city of fuel, it is not converted into lime. The soil is va- rious. Along the bank of the river it consists of deep, rich, haugh land. Further removed from the river the land coosisls FINTRAY. 167 chiefly of light early soil of good quality. In the middle or ele- vated district the soil is very much inferior, consisting partly of peat«mosS| and partly of moor, interspersed with considerable and yearly increasing patches of arable land. In the north district of the parish, the soil is much better, and there are several well cul- tivated farms. Live^Stock.'^A great number of cattle (chiefly of the Aber- deenshire breed) are reared and fed in this parish, many of which grow to a very considerable size* There are also some fine horses reared. Scarcely any sheep are reared ; and few are fed, except on the lawns of Fin tray House and Disblair. Zoology. — Formerly the river Don abounded with salmon and very fine trout ; but the cruives and dam-dikes, erected by manu- facturing companies in the parishes of Old Machar and Newhills, have almost ruined the fishings; and have given rise to many dis- putes between the upper heritors and manufacturing companies. Hares and partridges are in abundance ; but no rare species of ani- mals are found. Wood. — Upwards of 600 acres of the surface of the parish are covered with wood, of various ages and kinds, and all in a thriv- ing condition. 11. — Civil History. Heritors. — The principal heritor of this parish is Sir John For- bes, Bart of Craigievar, who is patron of the parish, proprietor of somewhat more than the half of it, and the only residing heri- tor. The other heritors are, the Earl of Fife ; Mr Ramsay of Barra ; and the Rev. Dr Morison of Disblair, — who have lands of considerable extent and value ; also General Benjamin Forbes of Balbithan ; and William Gordon Gumming Skene, Esq. of Pit- lurg and Dyce, who have small properties in this parish. The rental of the parish is supposed to be nearly L. 5000 Sterling. The valued rent is L. 3007, 8s. 4d. Scots. Antiquities. — There are two cairns in the parish, but their ori- gin is unknown. The present minister when improving his glebe dug up the foundations of some buildings, supposed to have be- longed to the Abbacy of Lindores, in Fife ; a branch of which is 45aid to have stood where the principal burning ground of this pa- rish now is; in which burying ground, a vault of extraordinary strength was built a few years ago by the parishioners, to se- cure dead bodies from resurrectionists; from whence, after re- maining perhaps three months or more, the bodicsare removed 168 ABERDEENSHIRE. and regularly interred.* The proprietor of the lands of Fintray collects and pays to the Exchequer the feu-duties which belonged to the Abbacy of Lindores — several of the landed estates in this part of the country holding of said Abbacy, and paying feu-doty thereto. The buildings (denominated the Northern Abbey) are suppos« ed to have been erected about the year 1386, from a stone bearing that date having been observed many years ago in the dike of the burying ground, which had probably been composed of fragments of the demolished abbey, whereof no vestige now remains above the surface of the ground ; but foundations of its walls occasionally interrupt the digging of graves. The minister has in his possession a silver cup belonging to the parish, bearing date 1632, which tradition says was formed from a silver head of St Meddan, the tutelar saint of the parish ; which, in the days of Popish superstition, was wont to be carried through the parish in procession, for the purpose of bringing down rain^ or clearing up the weather, as circumstances might require. Modem Buildings. — The principal building in the parish is Fin- tray House, a large, elegant, and commodious mansion in the Tu- dor style, lately erected by Sir John Forbes, Bart There is also a neat and commodious house on the lands of Disblair, built in the cottage style, and of a size suited to the extent and value of the property attached. Historical Occurrences. — The most remarkable events in this parish, within the memory of the present generation, are the floods of the river Don, which were till of late years a very serious bar to agricultural improvements. The first great flood on record happened in the year 1768, which carried away the greater part of the crop from the haughs and level lands, at the period between reaping and stacking. A similar inundation took place in August 1799, which carried off considerable quantities of hay, and de- stroyed, in a great measure, the grain crop, the whole of which stood, at that time, on the ground uncut. A similar, but still higher flood, happened on 4th August 1829, when the river rose about fourteen feet above its ordinary level, and nearly eighteen inches higher than any flood of that river in the memory of the old- est person alive, and extending (where the river was not conGned by elevated lands or embankments) to from half to three-fourths of a mile in breadth. This extraordinary flood occasioned veiy serious losses to many individuals ; and had it not been for strong 3 FINTRAY. 169 embankmenta^ wbich had been erected a few years before, (some of which withstood, while others yielded to the impetuosity of the tor- rent,) the whole crop on the most valuable lands in the parish must have been completely destroyed. A great part of the haugh-Iand is now protected by embankments, on the lands of Fintray and Wester Fintray, extending to upwards of 6000 ells in length, and pro- tecting from 200 to 300 Scotch acres of very fine rich land, from the river floods. Parochial Seffisters* — The oldest record belonging to the kirk- session begins on 25th May 1662 ; but only fragments thereof remain, scarcely legible, and all in loose sheets. With the ex- ception of the register of baptisms, which appears to be pretty com- plete since the year 1728^ the registers of this parish are rather defective. Minutes appear to have been kept, but seldom en- tered in a bound book, previously to the year 1795 — since which time regular records have been kept. III. — Population. In 1790 the population was 920 IBll, by the census, 8S2 1821, . . 996 18S1, . . 1046~viz. 519 males, 527 females. 1839, . . 1012 The decrease between 1790 and 181 1 seems to have been owing to two or more small farms having been occasionally thrown into one. The. average number of births in this parsh for the last seven years is 26 per annum ; of deaths, 13; of marriages, 13. The number of families, by census of 1831 was 225 ; inhabited houses, 215 ; fatuous persons, 2. Number of illegitimate births during the last three years 6. CharacieTf ^c. of the People. — -The people, in general, are ac- tive and industrious, and, with a very few exceptions, they are tem- perate. They enjoy, in a moderate degree, the comforts and ad- vantages of society. IV. — Industry. Number of imperial acres in the parish, cultivated or occasionally in tillage, betwiit . • 5000 and 60('0 never cultivated, and remaining constantly waste or in pasture, about . . 800 under wood, betwixt . 600 and 700 Produce. — More than three-fourths of the population depend for employment and subsistence on agricultural concerns. The chief productions of the parish are oats, bear (sometimes barley), pease, hay, potates, and turnip, of which latter crop a very con- 170 ABERDEENSHIRE. siderable breadth is sown annually, the soil being particularly adapted to turnip husbandry. Bents. — Arable land rents from 15s. to L. 2, 15s. per acre^ ac- cording to its quality ; — average about L. 1, 5s. per acre. There is a very considerable extent of barren ground in the lands both of Fintray and Wester Fintray, which might be ren- dered useful by being either cultivated or planted. And the ju- dicious improvements of draining and inclosing, which Sir John Forbes has introduced on his lands, and which are being carried on, partly by himself and partly by his tenants, will, it is to be hop- ed, cause the barren district of the parish to present a more cheer^ ing aspect at no distant period. For, notwithstanding the clamours of agricultural distress, improvements were never carried on here with greater spirit than at present. Farm-houses and offices have been greatly improved in appear- ance within the last forty years, and the occupants are much better clothed, and fed, and lodged. Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years — a space too short for encouraging an enterprising tenant to lay out his capital on improvements, with any reasonable prospect of ad- vantage. Next to the agricultural population may be mentioned trades- men of various crafts, who reside in the parish, such as 4 black- smiths ; 4 masons ; 8 carpenters ; 4 tailors ; 6 shoemakers ; 3 millers; 2 sawyers; 1 watchmaker or mechanic, and 4 shopkeepers: amounting in all to about 36, independently of their families. Manufactures. — The only manu&cture of this parish is that of fine woollen cloth, by the Messrs Crombie, at Cothal Mills, which was begun about the year 1798, under a different firm, and has been carried on since that period without intermission. Mr John Crombie has conducted it since 1806. It produces, on an ave- rage, from 7500 to 8000 yards per annum, of the value of from 14s. to 24s. per yard. This branch of business, principally owing to the number of complicated and variable processes, through which the material must pass before it be brought out in a finished state, is attended with several difficulties, and is almost confined to three or four counties in the west of England and Yorkshire. These difficulties have been overcome here, by encouraging Eng- lish operatives to settle in this country ; and the business is now managed by an English foreman over each different department, having under his inspection Scotch and English labourers, who FINTRAY. 171 perform the operative parts. The advantages which attend the manufacture of cloths here, are a plentiful supply of excellent water, and a powerful water&U, which saves the expenses of steam- power. Wages are also lower here than in manufacturing districts where provisions are high. Considerable encouragement has been given to this manufactory by the Board of Trustees for the En- couragement of Manufactures in Scotland, who have annually given considerable premiums, in the gaining of which the Messrs Crombie have been very successful. Since the year 1836, a branch of manufacture has sprung up in the south of Scotland, which has had the effect of considerably decreasing the consumpt of fine cloths throughout the kingdom. The article alluded to is plaid, or what is now more usually de- nominated ^^ tweed.** The managers at Cothal Mills, finding that their clothing machines were particularly well adapted to the ma- nufacture of this article, by working finer wools than were gene- rally used for these goods, soon produced stuffs that found a ready market in London as well as in Scotland. The consequence has been, that, from the steady deniand, they have been enabled to double their production, and of course the number of hands has been increased. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'TotDUj Sfc. — Fintray is distant from Aberdeen, the nearest market^town, from eight to thirteen miles ; from six to seven of which miles are turnpike, and the rest good commutation roads. The road from Keith-hall to Aberdeen divides the parish into nearly two equal parts. Ecclesiastical State. — The present church of Fintray was built in 1821, and is neat,' substantial, and commodious. It is the only place of worship in the parish. It is about equally distant from the east and west boundaries of the parish, but much nearer to the south boundary than the north. It would accommodate nearly 800 persons, having been purposely built large, to meet an increase of population. It is divided among the heritors in the proportion of their valued rents ; the heritors subdivide it among their tenants, and no seat-rents are demanded or paid. The average number of communicants is about 450. The congregation, on an ordinary Sabbath and favourable day, may be reckoned a full half of the gross population. There are only a few Dissenters in the parish, and not one of these is a native of the parish ; almost the whole of them belong to the Cothal Mills' Manufactory. 172 ABERDEENSHIRE. The present manse was built in 1804. The glebe measures nearly 6 acres, about two of which were reclaimed by the pre- sent incumbent from barren ground ; and the greater part of the glebe (both old and new) is land of inferior value. The stipend consists of sixteen chalders of victual, the one-half meal, the other half barley, payable by the fiar prices of the county, together with L. 8^ 6s. 8d. for communion elements. Schools, — There are two schools in the parish, besides two Sabbath schools, one of them conducted by the minister, viz. the parochial, which is well situated for tlie southern (the more popoulous) district of the parish ; and a school, built and endowed by the proprietor of Disblair, for the accommodation of the northern district. The parochial teacher enjoys a school-house, with two small rooms for his own accommodation, a salary of L. 28 Sterling, and a quarter of an acre of garden ground. Average number of scholars from 60 to 70, and school-fees may amount to L. 20 per annum. The teacher of the other school receives as salary, the interest of 1^. 200, mortified for that purpose by the Rev. Dr Morison, proprietor of Disblair, together with a school-house, dwelling-house, and gar- den, for a nominal rent of 5s. per annum. Number of scholars from 40 to 50. School-fees may, perhaps, amount to L. 15 or L.16 per annum. The teacher ofiiciates as precentor, and re* ceives L. 3 per annum. The branches usually taught in the parochial school are, read- ing, writing, arithmetic, Latin, (now seldom required,) English grammar, geography, mensuration, mathematics, and sometimes book-keeping. Most of the above branches are also taught at the school at Disblair. School- fees vary from 2s. 6d. to 5s. per quar- ter, according to the branches taught,' but they are often not re- gularly paid. The Dick bequest to the parochial schoolmasters in Aberdeen, Banff, and Murrayshires, now makes their situation comfortable. There are exceedingly few persons (if any) in this parish who cannot read ; and it is believed that (with a few exceptions among the aged) all of them have more or less knowledge of writing. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There is not a beggar belonging to the parish. Only one person of that description has resided in the parish in the course of the last forty years ; and, as that person begged more from avarice than necessity, the kirk-session gave him the choice of desisting from public begging, or of allowing his name to be expunged from the pauper roll. By the advice of his FINTHAY. 173 wife, who had practised the begging trade iu Aberdeen before her marriage, he preferred the latter. The average number of persons receiving parochial relief, may vary from 20 to 25, receiving from L. 1 to L. d» 10s. per annum. The annual amount of funds under the management of the kirk-session may be reckoned from * L. 60 to L. 65 per annum, (burdened with the expense of the ses- sion, precentor, beadle, &c. in all about L. 5,) arising from week- ly collections in the church, (L. 40 to L. 45,) interest of L. 220 ; donations from non-residing heritors, pall-dues and other casual- ties. Besides the weekly collections for the ordinary poor, annual collections, of very considerable amount, are made for the Infir- mary and Lunatic Asylum at Aberdeen ; and a collection was late- ly made in aid of the Indian mission. The poor of this parish owe a large debt of gratitude to Sir John and the Honourable Lady Forbes of Craigievar, who, of late years, have given several donations ; among which may be men- tioned one of L. 20, and another of L. 10, for the immediate re- lief of the poor, besides their very liberal collections in the church on ordinary Sundays: and well-judged supplies of clothing, coal, meal, and other things, to the more necessitous, during the incle- ment season of the year. It is but justice to the poor of this parish, to say, that few ap- ply for parochial aid, before they stand in actual need of it ; and in some cases, it has been necessary to press it urgently and repeat- edly before it was accepted. At the same time, it cannot be de- nied, that some few have been found of a contrary disposition. Subscriptions are sometimes successfully made for an individual, or &mily, who have met with any misfortune. A blacksmith, who died in this parish some years ago, be- queathed to the kirk-session, L. 70 Sterling ; the interest of L.40 to be applied to the education of poor children ; and the interest of L. 30, towards the clothing of aged and indigent females belong- ing to and residing in the parish. These small funds are useful at the present time. And another blacksmith, in like manner, dis- poned to the kirk-session, feu-duties to the annual value of L.IO 13s. 6d., for charitable purposes in this parish ; to take effect, un- der the eye of the kirk-session, upon the death of certain persons named in the disposition. Poor rates are happily unknown and unnecessary here. In this parish there are neither markets, saving banks, nor cir- culating libraries. 174 ABERDEENSHIRE. Inns. — There are at present two inns or alebouM% one of which would suffice. One of them has been lately erected, and ia au excellent and substantial building, with good accommodation — possessing many attractions for such as prefer rural pleasures to the gaieties of a town during the summer and autumnal months. Fuel. — The fuel hitherto most commonly used was peat and turf, from a moss in the parish, but that moss being now in a great measure exhausted, coals, brought from Aberdeen, begin to be generally used. Miscellaneous Observations* Northern- Abbey ofLindores. — When the Abbacy of Lindores was suppressed at the Reformation, it was erected into a temporal lordship, in favour of Leslie, Lord Lindores, who acquired from the Crown an heritable right to collect the feu-duties formerly paid by the vassals of that Abbacy, and to account for the same to the Crown. That part of the Abbacy's rights which lay north of the Tay was afterwards acquired from the Lindores family by the family of Craigievar, who, as heritable collectors, have ever since uplifted these feu-duties, accounted and paid them to the Exchequer, and received for that trouble an annual allowance of L. 5 Sterling. The sum thus paid to the Exchequer is L. 73, 13s. l$gd. Rents. — The highest rent paid for a farm in this parish at pre- sent is L. 400 per annum, — the lowest Is. Sterling. Cropping. — Some of the very deep haugh land has been worked, for some time past, on a four years' shift, viz. oats, turnip, bear, hay ; but a five years shift (including one year of hay and another of pasture grass,) is by most farmers deemed preferable. On the infield or medium lands, a six or seven years' shift is gene- rally adopted, and on the outfield or inferior soils, a shift of not less than seven years, — three or more of which they are in grass. Reaping. — About the year 1810, William Anderson, a farmer in Hatton of Fintray, began to cut down his crop with a scythe in- stead of a sickle. But this mode of reaping, which is now uni- versally practised in Aberdeenshire, did not become general till two or three years after. The process of reaping is more expeditiously carried on by four scythes than by any other number, viz. four cutters, four gath«^ ers, four binders, two stookers, and one raker, the binders mak« ing the bands. These fifteen persons may be supposed to finish about six acres per day. January 1840. PARISH OF NEW DEER. PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES WELSH, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — New Debr was originally a part of the ancient parish of Deer, from which it was disjoined not long after the Revolution. It is termed in the ancient records Auchreddy^ from the name of the land in which the church is situated. This name is engraved on the communion cups and plates, with the date 1694. Like other Scottish names, it is of Gaelic origin, as are many other names in the parish, such as Auchaach^ AuchmaUddy^ Auchna" ffatty AuchmunzieL Extent, Sfc. — It is one of the largest parishes in the county of Aberdeen. Its greatest length from north to south is upwards of 14 miles. Its greatest breadth from east to west upwards of 8^ miles. Its contents upwards of 50 square miles. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Stri- chen, Tyrie, and Aberdour ; on the west, by the parishes of King £dward, Monquhitter, Methlic, and Tarves ; on the south, by the parish of £llon ; on the east, by the parish of Old Deer. T4fpoffraphical Appearances. — With the exception of the hill of Mormond, New Deer is the highest ground in Buchan. No part of it, however, rises higher than 200 or 300 feet above the level of the sea. From the hill of Culsh, in the neighbourhood of the 'viHage, may be seen in a clear day the spire of Peterhead, about eighteen miles distant to the eastward. And, looking west, may be seen Bennachie, about twenty-five or twenty-eight miles off, the Foudland Hills, the hills in the neighbourhood of Banff and CuUen, and Benrinnis, in the county of Moray. The elevation of the hill of Cross Gight is rather higher than that of Culsh. Hydrography. — There are no streams that deserve the name of rivers in this parish, the country being in general flat and all arable. It will give some idea of its elevation to mention, that 1 76 ABERDEENSHIRE. branches of three rivers, running in three different directions, take their rise in the north part of this parish, not far -from each other. One of them flows eastward towards the Ugie, passing Old Deer, and entering the German Ocean north of Peterliead. Another flows westward, and joins a stream that falls into the De- veron, which empties itself into the Moray Frith at Banff! A third flows south-westward, and joins the Ythan near Gight, which falls into the German Ocean at the Newburgh. All these three are but small streams. Though New Deer is in the centre of a circle seventeen or eight- een miles distant from the sea on three sides, yet from its elevation the climate is cold ; the snow lies long, and often delays the opera- tions of husbandry. The south and west winds are most prevalent ; they are more violent than the east or north. But though the cli- mate is cold, it is dry and healthy, and the inhabitants live to a great age, many exceeding eighty or ninety years. The prevailing distempers are inflammatory complaints, arising probably from the people using too much oatmeal. Scrofula, too, is very common, as also are consumptions and gravellish complaints. Soil. — The soil in general, with few exceptions, is light and shal- low. It would answer well for agriculture if it were not for the cli- mate and the subsoil. A great proportion of the parish rests on a hard rocky pan of from 6 inches to 2 feet thick, which prevents the surface water from sinking into the earth, and keeps the soil wet till the sun evaporates the moisture. This pan prevents trees from thriving and coming to any size. Attempts have been made, and in some cases successfully, to break up this pan, and give the surface water a passage into the earth. In some parts the subsoil is moss on coarse clay, on others it is mixed with a coarse granite. Lime of indifferent quality is found in the land of Barrack. The farmers quarry it for themselves, and burn it either for building or for putting on the land. There is plenty of moss in the parish, though it is wearing away apace either by improvement, or by consumption as fuel. The part of it that has been cultivated, produces excellent crops when mixed with shell sand from the sea side. The country appears to have been once covered with wood, from the remains of trees that are dug out of the mosses, though it is somewhat remarkable that none of these trees are fir. II. — Civil History. The materials for the history of this parish are very scanty. The NEWOBEB. 177 inhabitants are a primitiTe race of people, and in many respects as far advanced in civilisation as their neighbours. They have but small encouragement for improvement, as there are no resident heri- tors to set them an example. Dr Mavor, a celebrated compiler of voyages, travels, && was a native of this parish, being born in the land of Culsh. Heritors. — There are nine heritors; of these only two have houses in the parish, and reside there occasionally. The heritors are, The Earl of Aberdeen ; Mr D. Dingwall of Brucklaw ; Mr Gor- don of Caimbanno and New Deer ; Mr Gordon of Nethermuir, Mr Dingwall Fordyce of Culsh; Captain Ferguson of Pitfour; Mr Forbes Irvine of Schivas; the Trustees of Mr Gordon of Murtle ; and the Trustees of the late Mr Simpson of CoUeyhilL The proprietors of Brucklaw and Nethermuir have residences in the parish. Parochial Registers. — The session records commence 1705. A portion of them, from 1727 to 1734, is lost. Since that period they have been regularly kept ; apd the old practice is still continued of entering each Sunday the text and the name of the minister who preaches. Antiquities. — There are, or rather there were, many remains of Druidical temples and funeral monuments, to be seen in the parish. One of them, about a mile north of the village, still retains the name of the Standing Stones of Culi^, though the stones stand there no longer, having been taken away, about seventy years ago, to build the old manse. There are occasionally found many tumuli, which, when opened, contain urns of baked clay, filled with human bones and ashes. Not long ago, a fkrmer in the neighbourhood of the vil- lage, in improving a piece of ground, dug up six of these. These urns had neither top nor bottom. They were like chimney cans of baked clay, rudely formed, about 15 inches long, and filled with bones and ashes. Two miles north of the village, stands the old Castle of Fedde- rate, now a complete ruin. Nearly all the best stones have been taken away by the farmers for building. It appears to have been once a place of considerable strength. It stands now in the mid- dle of a field. A morass, now drained and improved, surrounded it, and the only access to it was by a causeway and a draw-bridge. Water, it seems, had been conveyed to it by means of pipes, for pieces of them have, aidifierent times, been torn up by the plough. There is no tradition as to when it was built. The floors are all ABERDEEN. M 1 7S ABBRDEENSHIRE. arched with stone. It came into the possession of the Inrines of Drum, and is now the property of Lord Aberdeen.* It is said to have been one of the last strongholds of James XL's partisans, who^ after the battle of Killiecrankie, possessed themselves of Fyrie Castle, and, being obliged to abandon it, took refuge in Fedder^ ate, but were pursued and expelled from thence by King William's troops. About a mile to the west of the village is an extensive piece of moor called Bruce Hill. This is said to have derived its name from Edward, brother to Robert the Bruce. Here he is reported to have encamped aflter the battle of Inverury, and from this to have gone in pursuit of the Cummins to a place near Old Deer^ called Aikey Brae. In memory of this victory, the market of Aikey fair is said to have been established on the spot where the battle was fought III. PoPULATIOlf. At the publication of the last Statistical Account, the popula- tion of New Deer was 2800, being 1324 males, and 1476 females* In 1801, the population was 2964 1811, - - - 8100 1821, . . . 3211, being 1486 malea, and 1625 femaks. 1831, ... 3525, being 1630 males, and 1805 ftmalea. From a survey taken lately on account of church extension, it was found to amount to 3621. It has been gradually increasing at the rate of one per cent, per annum, 10 percent, each census* There are between dOO and 400 of the population located in the village of New Deer. TbeaYerage annual number of baptisms, . 100 of marriages, about 30 of deaths, about 40 Under 15 years old» 619 males. . 578 females^ Between 15 and 30, 372 . 535 3D and 50, 299 . 419 50 and 70, 255 . 296 Above 70, 85 . 124 Unmarried men above 50, , 114 women or widows above 45, . 132 The number of families in the parish, . 775 Tbe average number of children to each fiunily, under 5 The number of houses, , . 775 None uninhabited. There are few or none blind, insane, deaf, or dumb. The nimi- ber of all in these classes does not exceed 5 or 6. Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 92. * Since this was written, the greater part of the lands of Fedderate has been aoldl to Mr D. Dingwall of Brucklaw, who is now by this purchase tbe principal in the paiish. NEW DEER. 179 IV. — Industry. The parish is entirely an agricultural parish, and all the inhabi- tants are in some way or other engaged in this occupation. The farms, in general, are small ; many of them mere crofts ; and consequent- ly, they are managed by the farmer's family. The contents of the parish in imperial acres are as under, be- longing to the respective heritors. Lord Aberdeen, Bruckla«r, Manar, Culsh, . Nethermuir, Pit four, • Murtle's Trt. Bjirrack, Auchnagatt, Arable. 1 Quality. A* A. F. Arable. 2d Quality. &. F. 754 1 6000 6642 268 244 1 120 1 146 72 3 146 2 22 d2 12! 7 20 36: 22 5239 4005 1043 601 1379 704 750 456 965 2 3 3 1 2 2 2 Pasture. ▲• a.. F. 27 7 39 9 2 15 20 13 880 283 301 131 155 91 2 1 1 1 2 11 12 15 Moor. A. a. F. Moss and Moor. A. a. F. 787 2 92805 3 37 25023 1521 384 3 25 410 11 345 10 188 2 U 438 0315 280 2 11 106 98 110 324 2 2 2 Wood. A. a. F. 2a 30 20 19 Imp. acres. i3017 1 3415166 2 12|l957 2 233587 264164 2 20(825 26 59 6 4 013 3 1 5 81 440 Lord Aberdeen, Brucklaw, • Manar, Culsh, Nethermuir, Pitfour, Murtle*s Trustees, Barrack, • Auchnagatt, Total of acres. A. B. F. 10,417 1 36 7.307 2,883 12 1,411 2 13 2,144 1 38 1,096 3 38 1,117 18 856 1 31 1785 3 29 I Imperial acres, 29,020 15 Valued rent. Scots. *L.1833 6 8 1133 6 8 490 12 6 266 13 4 306 246 17 9 282 9 9 133 6 8 466 13 4 L. 5159 6 8 Present rent. Sterling. L.3i00 1740 1185 5 530 700 419 8 6 479 14 7 285 19 500 L.8940 7 "T The first column contains the nine heritors ; the second and third columns, the land always in regular crop ; the fourth column is pas- ture, partly green and wet, and partly heather and dry; the fifth column is moss or heather, and has once been in cultivation, as ap- pears from the marks of ridges throughout it. The sixth column is the moss used for fuel, which, when not broken up, is pastured^ The seventh column is young planted wood, generally larches and Scotch firs. The only part of this that appears to be thriving is some planted fifteen years ago near Brucklaw. The fifth and sixth columns are diminishing by being taken into cultivation. Btntalj 4-c. — The average rent of the best land may be from L. 2 to L. 3 an acre ; the second quality from 10s. to L. 1. A * From Mr D. DingwatVs purchase of the lands of Fedderate, his valued rent has increased to upwards of L. 1800 Scots, while Lord Aberdeen's is only L.llOO. The ▼alued rents, howerer, are ni>t yet split, so as to determine it accurately. 180 ABERDEENSHIRE. very marked degree of improTemeni has takeo place in agriculture since the publication of last Statistical Account The rate of grazing for cattle is from L. 1 to L. 1» Ids. ahead ; of sheep from 5s. to 10s. Wages. — Labourers receive Is. 6d. a-day often hours and their meat, or 2s. a-day without meat Masons and carpenters work at the rate of dd. an hour. Live-stock, — The Buchan breed of cows is still much valued, and more so when crossed by the Teeswater. The smaller breeds are not now so saleable since live-stock has begun to be transport- ed to London. Husbandry. — The same system of cultivation is not pursued through the whole parish. A five or seven-shift is the general practice. The land lets very high ; the leases generally for nine- teen years, and some of them for life ; but these are dying away und not renewed. Farm* Buildings. — Farm-buildings are rather better than be- fore, though still far from what they ought to be. Some of the large farmers have made great improvements, and reclaimed large tracts of wet ground ; and if they had more capital, and were more encouraged by the proprietors, the improvements would be greater. Statistics of the produce of the different lands in the parish of New Deer. Boahdi Corbshill, AUathan, Cross Gight, Auchreddy and Drum, Auchmaliddy, Bedlam, Fedderate and Biub,* Broomhill, * Bonnykelly, * Whitestones, * SaTOck aod Inkhom, 1. Total produceof Lord Aberdeen's lands, Little Auchoach, Meikle Auchoacb, Wbitehill, Oldwbatt, Ironside, Artamford, 2. Total produce of Brucklaw's lands. Qrs. oats. } 252 438 288 728 894 149 1138 317 673 126 1494 6497 370 313^ 1047 608 654 550 Qrs. bear. 64 16 12 40 27 70 10 10 2 31 Bolls potatoes. 2244 13 16 34 10 27 35 35424lia54 865 49 96i 71 244 226 36 196 90 164 35 301 Acres turnips bay. 15081 81 85 266 148 109 176 241 414 31} 67 82 19 66 321 641 124 142 Stones 214 461 550 2188 2470 leo 3060 1320 1820 450 2190 583 88 65 534 56 3161 14888 1400 1500 2400 4050 2360 8605 15315 18 571 46 150 161 12 126 86 122 40 281 10561 55 46 1471 too 15B 6641 • The mater part of tbe lands of Fedderate, together witb the whole o£ Broomliilk Bonnykelly, and Whitestones, have been sold to Mr Dbgwall of Bruckkir. NEW DEER. 181 CairnlMniiOy AuchmuDxielf Little Auehreddy, a Total produce of Mr Cknrdon of} Manarli lands, . y 4. Total produce of the land of Culab» 5. Total dob ofNethennuir, Atherby Affleck, 6. Total produce of Pitfour's lands, 7. Oldinand,«-produce of MurtlD'iB ) Trustees lands, . { 8. Total produce of Barrack, 9. Total do. of Aucbnagatt, Qrs. Qrs. bear. Boils Acres potatoes tutnlpi Stones hay. Bushels rye-grass. 786 549 853 19 22 25 66 614 60 29 27 194| 113 243 1 78J 561 190 1861 753 2685 179 116 189 2188 ^504 5299 484 1211 2064 95 2105 III 1001 477 346 8144 984 6040 159 93 79 414 37 1344 530 1024 76 823 56 "46" 19 19 172 78i 1874 1784 1089 306 92 4120 196 546 1484 554 1140 138 1092 231 1094 ^9^0 190 Total produce of whole parish, 179894*687 1 44044 16174/52686 1 31794 The above items of produce were obtained by actual inquiry at the respective farmers. Of the 17989^ quarters of oats, not more than one-fifth can be reckoned as of first quality — that is, there are 3597 quarters of oats of first quality, the remainder, 14392^ quarters, are of second quality. The land of Brucklaw to the extent of 100 acres is laid out in grass, and let for pasture. In Artamford there are 55 acres of similar description ; in Nether- muir 40 acres ; and in Little Auchreddy 40 acres. Rent about L.2, 5s. per acre. Procfiice.— 'The following is as near an approximation as could be made to the amount of produce from the cultivated land as well as from the uncultivated : Oato (1st quality), 3597 quarters, at L.0 19 10 Oats (2d quality), 143924 ^o- «t 18 7 Bearorbi^K, 687 do. at 1 4 6 Potatoes, 4fi>l4 bolls, at 68. Hay, 10537 cwt. at Ss. 4d. Hay, producing 31794 bushels rye-graas at 2s. 6d. Turnips, 16174 acres at L.6, . Value of 5544 acres pasture and moorland, at 2s. Value of 1 79894 quarters fodder, at 6s. Value of 687 quarters do. at 5s. L.3567 1 6 13373 74 841 11 6 1321 7 1756 3 4 397 8 9 9705 554 8 5396 17 171 15 Total value of produce, L. 37064 12 84 Statistics of Horses^ Cattle^ and Sheep. Horses. Cattle. Lord Aberdeen's lands, - 253 1484 BrucUair*s do. . - - 168 1026 Mr Gordon of Manar% do. - 82 468 Mr Fordyce of Culsh's do. . - 35 173 Sheep. 264 242 60 23 S6 295 50 35 189 42 41 205 SO 26 171 12 26 179 2B ] 82 ABERDEENSHIRE. Hones. Cattle. Sheep. Mr Oordon of Nethennuir*8 do. Mr Ferguson of PitfouT*s do. Murtle*s Trustees, Old Maud, &o. Lands of Barrack, - - • Lands of Auchnagatt, Total, "724 4190 "751 V. — Parochial Economy. Village. — There is but one village in the parish, New Deer, containing upwards of 100 houses, 90 on the property of Mr Gordon of Manar, and the remainder on Lord Aberdeen's property. It lies on the ridge of a hill, and the fields decline to the east and to the west of the street It is situated nearly at an equal distance from Banff on the north-west ; Fraserburgh on the north-east; Peterhead on the east; and the Newburgh on the south. It is distant from Aberdeen nearly north thirty miles. Means of Communication.^^^Yieve is a daily post from Aber- deen, through Methlic, and the communication is carried on to Strichen, Peterhead, and New Pitsligo, and Banff. There are nearly 100 miles of roads in the parish ; a good road great part of the way from New Deer to Ellon, distant thirteen miles. The turnpike-road from Peterhead to Banff crosses the parish ; and a mail-coach regularly travels from Peterhead to Banff, and returns the same day. There is a stage-coach thrice a-week from Aberdeen to New and Old Deer and Strichen, through Ellon. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is a very old and ruin- ous building. There is a date on it of 1622. It is about seven miles from the north and south extremities of the parish. It is in a very bad state of repair ; but the heritors are about to erect a new one. The church being found too small, aq aisle was added in 1773. It is seated for 900 persons, and the seats belong to the tenants, who pay Is. 6d. a sitting at the commencement of their lease, which, when they quit their farms, they get back from the incom- ing tenant.* The manse was built in 1882, and is a commodious house. The glebe consists of 5 acres, value about L. 10, and a grass glebe of 5| acres, value about L. 5. The stipend is 16 chalders, half meal half barley, at the fiars price, with L. 10 for communion elements. Since this was written, a handsome church has been built, capable of eootainiliK 1500 persons, and the old church has been entirely demolished. NEW DEER. 183 To accommodate the people at the south of the parish^ and parts of the neighbouring pamhes of Old Deer, Ellon, Tarves, and a small portion of Methlic, a chapel has been erected at the cost of about L. 700, calculated to seat 700 persons ; but no mi- nister has been yet appointed for want of funds. It a ngularly supplied with dirine worship by the ministers of New Deer, Old Deer, Ellon, Tarves, and Methlic. There are three Dissenting meeting-houses belon^og to the United Secession in the parish. They were all established there before the ^me of the present incumbent. The ministers are paid by Toluntary contribution, some of them L.70 or L.80, and some- times less. In die north part of the paiish those who are at a distance irom the parish church are accommodated at the chapels of ease at New Byth and New Pitsligo. Statufict o/Nev Deer at to BeHgitM, KiWb. tburch U iscnicrs. ■s«ir Fnm i^ l\i_ I s ph.cb H Lord Aberdeen'* liindt, I45 3C5 536 903 41 112 "ise 3J6 Tm M[ Di rish churches; some at New Pitsh'go, some at New Byth, some at Methlic, aomettt Strichen, some at Old D^r, and some at Monquhitter. Males. Females. Total. 40 42 82 426 aoo 816 831 200 531 ST FEBOUS. 185 of the law compelling them to support their own poor would be very desirable. Fairs* — There are five fairs held in the village annually. One in April ; a feeing market in May ; and a market in June ; one in October, and a feeing market in November ; at all these, horses, cattle, sheep, &c. are exposed to sale. Inns. — There are three inns in the village. Two of them prin- cipal ones. Spirits are also sold by most of the retailers of tea and tobacco. These, however, through the whole parish, do not ex- ceed eight or nine. JFVceL— -The fuel principally used is peat, procured from the neighbouring mosses, at the cost of about Is. 9d. a cart load. Revised January 1840. PARISH OP ST FERaUS. PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES ANDERSON, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish was formerly named Langley, and ori- ginally Inverugie. It assumed its present designation in the year 1616; but for what special reasons cannot be accurately ascertain- ed, though it would appear to have- been intended as a compliment to the memory of its ancient patron saint Situation^ Boundaries^ Extent. — This parish, though locally situated in Aberdeenshire, belongs to the county of Banff, to which it was annexed at a very early period by an act of Legislature, ob- tained through the influence of the Cheynes, the ancient proprie- tors, who, being the hereditary sheriffs of Banff, were naturally very desirous to have their own domains placed under their own jurisdiction. But its connection with the county of Banff is now recognized in no other way than by the payment of the ordinary taxes. It is bounded on the east, by the German Ocean ; on the south, by the river Ugie ; on the north, by the parish of Crimond ; and on the west, by the parish of Longside. Its extreme length is 5^ miles, and its greatest breadth 3^ miles. Its superficial extent is about 12 square miles. Topographical Appearances.-^The sea beach is flat and sandy. 186 ABfiUDEENSHlRE. It forms, as justly described in the former Statistical Account, <^ two segments of a circle — the one, beginning at the mouth of the Ugie, terminates at Scotstown Craig, and the other extends from there to Rattraj-head." A strong natural rampart of closely connected clay hills, elevated by the accumulation of drift sand, and thickly covered with bent grass, divides the shore from the land, and is of vast consequence in preventing the blowing of the sand by strong easterly winds. Along this line, but of various breadth, runs a plain of the finest downs or links perhaps in Scot- land, affording ^xcellent pasture for sheep and young cattle, and ca- pital ground for the golf-player, though perhaps rather too level for the lovers of a hazardous game. The lower part of the parish, to the extent of a mile from the shore, presents a flat appearance, from whence it gradually rises in elevation towards the western ex- tremity, with many beai^tiful undulations. There is no elevation . in the parish which merits the designation of a hill, if we except an eminence of inconsiderable height in the vicinity of Inverugie Castle, known by the name of the Castle-hilL Though naked in winter from the general absence of trees, the parish presents to the eye of the stranger entering it from the south, in summer, a love- ly and inviting aspect — by exhibiting one unbroken spread of culti- vated surface. The mosses, which are not within sight of the main road, are the only land which has not yet yielded to the conquest of the plough. Meteorology — Climate. — From its proximity to the sea, and the retentive quality of the soil, the climate of this parish is rather cold and damp. Of late years the springs have been less mild and the winters less severe, than they are reported to have been in for- mer times. Here it may be truly said in the language of the poet, ^' Spring IS but the child Of churlish winter in her froward moods, Discovering much the temper'of her sire.** The mean range of the thermometer in summer is from 52^ to 57% and in winter from 38^ to 48'' on Fahrenheit's scale ; and that of the barometer, in summer, from 29.49 to 29.56, and in winter from 29.40 to 29.47. The autumnal frosts for the last fifteen years have not set in so early or with such severity, as previous to that period. Formerly, the growth gained by the trees in summer was generally lost in winter ; the tender shoots being nipt by the early frost before they were suflSciently matured to resist it. NoWv we see the crown bud of the last yearns branch giving birth in spring to its natural successor. Notwithstanding the humidity of the atmosphere, and the fire- ST FERGUS. 187 queni alteroatioDSof the weather, it does not appear that there are any diseases which may strictly be called endemic in the parish, Dor are the inhabitants less healthy than in the more inland parts of the country, though strangers coming to reside in it with a pre- disposition to rheumatic and stomach complaints are generally backward to bear testimony to the salubrity of its climate. There were twenty-four individuals lately living upwards of eighty years of age; and one man, in his eighty-eighth year,* is able to attend to the business of a small farm, and to walk to church almost every Sabbath from a distance of more than two miles. One man died in 1835 aged ninety-six. The writer's maternal grandfather, who died in 1810, aged ninety-three, officiated as an elder at the dis- pensation of the Lord's Supper in this parish in that year. The oldest person now living in the parish is a woman aged ninety-two. The prevailing winds are, the north, north-east, and north-west. The north-west is of all others to which we are exposed the most destructive to vegetation. It would tend much to meliorate the climate, and to ensure an earlier and less precarious vegetation, if the west and north-west boundaries of the parish were skirted with a broad selvage of planting. It is needless to hint what an acqui- sition this would be to our tame scenery; and, whilst it gave a more imposing aspect to the landscape, it would impart additional value to the soil. It is to be hoped, when the opportunity of en- tertaining this proposition is afforded by the expiry of the present leases, that it will meet with due attention in the proper quarter. Hydrography. — The Ugie is the only stream of water in the parish which deserves the name of a river. It consists of two branches, called the North and the South Ugie, which unite in the parish of Longside ; from whence it flows in one channel along the south boundary of St Fergus to the ocean. In the upper dis- tricts of the parish, in dry summers, there is often a scarcity of water for cattle. In the lower district there are several excellent perennial springs. A few are chalybeate, but none of a very strong impregnation. About forty years ago, a canal was cut at a great expense along the south side of the parish. The then pro- prietor had contemplated its extension to Peterhead, in order to open up a water-carriage from that port to different parts of his extensive estates in Old Deer, Longside, and St Fergus; but meeting with some difficulties in effecting the necessary arrange- * John Milne in Kilkyhill. The above was written in 18^7. He is still living, attending to the concerns of his farm, and able to attend church in a good day.-- Ja- nuary 1840. 188 ABERDEENSHIRE. ments with neighbouring heritors, the plan was abandoned. It subserved, for some years, the purpose of conveying shell-sand, with which the coast abounds, to the farms more remote firom the sea; but it is now entirely useless, unless as a reservoir for water to the farm-steadings in its neighbourhood, and is fast filling up. Geology. — The greater part of the parish consists of a strong adhesive clay, incumbent on a bed of ferruginous gravel, which alternates, as far as the writer had an opportunity of observing, with a white silicious sand. There are numerous boulders in the parish of gneiss, granite, trap, and graywacke; but the only rocks in situ are those at Craig Ewen, and Scotstown Head on the coast. At Craig Ewen, granite of a binary compound predominates, with very little quartz, and where there is a vein cutting the native bed, which rarely occurs, it is of a compact felspar of a very deep red, and occasionally manifesting a great tendency to decomposition. The soil in the neighbourhood is clayey. The rocks at Scotstown Head, which are only accessible at low water, consist of granite, gneiss, trap, quartz, and primitive lime- stone. The gneiss and granite appear frequently in close and inseparable union. The granite varies in appearance as it comes more or less into contact with the gneiss ; where the junction is complete, it is white. Where the granite underlies the gneiss, but without any union between them except contiguity, it assumes a dark colour, and discovers more hornblende in its composition than in its other positions. At one point the granite is graphic The general sur&ce of the rocks exhibits gneiss, granite, trap, and quartz, all blended together, and in forms of connection, vary- ing almost at every step. The limestone is separated by a fissure from the granite, but appears in one or two places united to the gneiss; and there is reason to believe that it forms a junction with the granite at a more remote distance from the shore. At Hythie, in the parish of Old Deer, and in a line due west from Scotstown Head, limestone and granite of the same character as at the latter place, make their appearance in very intimate union. At Black- stones, between Scotstown rocks and Craig Ewen, there are three distinct congeries of large boulders within the flood-mark, con- sisting indiscriminately of granite, graphic granite, primary and secondary limestone, puddingstone, graywacke, gneiss, and basalt. In the secondary limestone, ammonites are occasionally found, and also impressions of a species of mussel not now known upon this coast. There is abundance of peat moss in the parish, l)ut none of re« ST FERGUS. 189 cent origin. It contains the remains of oak, hazel, and birch trees, which the greatest care cannot now induce to take a liking to our soil. Some pieces of oak, dyed black by the oxide of iron, and susceptible of a beautiful polish, have occasionally been dug up, and applied to ornamental purposes. About thirty years ago, several antlers of lai^ and full-grown stags were found imbedded in a bank of moss. It is quite evident that the lower part of the parish had at some distant period been submerged by the sea. The substratum of the soil consists of sand intermixed with the remains of marine testacea. There are indications along the coast that the land has been gaining upon the sea. Zoology* — Quadrupeds. There are no rare animals found in this parish. About three years ago, the hedgehog (Erinaceus EuropcBusy) which was not before known to have had a locum te^ nens in this district, was discovered in St Fergus, on the farm of Nether Hill. The otter has long had a home on the banks of the Ugie. Rabbits are of late introduction, but they have mul- tiplied to a prodigious extent in the Links, and do incalculable damage to the crops in the neighbourhood. Indeed, the increase of the common hare is here found to be a serious evil to the farmer. , Birds. — Under this section the parish presents little that could be peculiarly interesting to the naturalist. Within these few years, and in consequence, as is supposed, of the persecution to which he was exposed in his ancient domicile at Pitfour, the rook (Corvusfrugikgus) has sought and found an asylum in St Fergus. He has paid a compliment to the trees at Lunderton, sufficiently flattering to the gentleman who planted them, by the institution of a rookery there, and, from this circumstance, has perhaps ex- perienced greater forbearance than his intrusion was otherwise entitled to. If it be true, however, as has been often averred, that what a cat is to a housewife, the rooks are to the farmer, by destroying worms and insects, it may yet be problematical on which side the balance of obligation lies. At Lunderton, also, may be seen, in a state of partial domesti- cation, the water hen {Fulica chlorqpus.) There are two, some- times four or more, birds. They frequent a marsh in the vicinity during the season of incubation, but mingle at other times with the common poultry in the court-yard, and partake of their fare. Fishes. — In the neighbouring ocean are to be found turbot f Pleuronestes mazimusj ; sole {Solea vulgaris). There is reason 190 ABBRDEENSHtRE. to belioTe that these are abundant, but, having no nets proper for .the purpose, the fishermen seldom catch theoL Ling (Molva vulgaris) ; common dog-fish (Spinax acanthia$) ; common skate (Rata batisj; haddock (Morhua JEglefinus); whiting (MerUmgus vulgaris); herring fClupea harengus), very abundant from the end of June to September. Coal-fish, called here cole-sethes, (Merlangus carbonarius) ; plaice or plash fluke fPlatessa vul» garis) ; flounder (Platessajlesus) ; holibut ( Hippoglossus vulgar-' ris) ; sand-eel, or sannel, (Ammodytes tobianus) ; mackerel (Scomber vulgaris) ; common cod (Morhua vulgaris). At Rat- tray Head, at the extremity of the coast belonging to this parish, a variety of the common cod is caught, well known by the pro- vincial name of the Rattray cotL It is of a reddish colour, and is prized as a great delicacy by those who are fond of fish. Among the rocks at Scotstown and Craig Ewen the parten crab (Cancer pagurus) is plentifully found. In the Ugie are the salmon (Salmo salar) ; bull-trout (Salmo eriox)^ very rare ; finnock (Salmo aWus); sea-trout (Salmo trutta) ; common bum-trout (Salmo Jhrio) ; minnow (Leuciscus plioxinus) ; common eel (AnguiUa vulgaris) ; fresh water flounder (Platessajluviatilts). In the Ugie the peari mussel {Mya margaritifera) is abundant, but the pearls found are seldom of much value, being of a dark hue and only partially trans- parent. British pearls must have been in great repute at one period, for Suetonius ascribes Caesar's invasion of Britain to the desire of enriching himself with the pearls found in different parts of the coast. ^^ Britanniam petiisse spe margaritarum/' But I am afraid that the Ugie cannot prefer a claim to the boast of hav- ing excited the cupidity of the Roman conqueror. Conchology, — There is little doubt but a conchologist might, with some pains, reap a rich harvest of gratification from our coast. The following is a list of shells collected on the coast of St Fergus, by Mr Alexander Murray, Nether Mill, a young gentleman not more distinguished by his zeal and industry as a practical farmer, than by his devotion to the pursuits of natural science. To in- sure accuracy the shells were named by Dr Fleming of King's College, Aberdeen. It will be readily observed that the Doctor has followed the nomenclature assumed in his History of British Animals. Helix arbustorum Trochus umbilicatus Turbo littoreus ziziphinus Nerita littoralis atriatus Natica Bitida Cyprsa Europe* 3 ST FERGUS. . 191 Nasn iiicrimiU Alasmodon margaritiferum Purpura lapillus Cardium edule Buccinum undatum Mactra solida FuBus andquus Donax trunculus eomeus Amphidesma prismatica Rc»«teIIar]a pes-pelecaui Cyprioa Islandica Patella vul^U Venus gallina — — lens Venerupis pullastra Focten variua ....i_» Virginea — — « sinuosua Balanus communis Anomia ephipphim Vcrmilia Tcrmicularis Mytilus edulis. Tar. inoraMatus Heterodisca reversa Modiolus Tulsaris Chiton marginatus. Anodon AnaHous Insects^ 4^c. — The insects most destructive to vegetation in this parish, so £ar as the observation of the writer extends, are the Limax agrestU^ or grub-worm, the Papilio napif the Tipula triHcif and common caterpillar ; seldom a summer passes in which the gooseberry bushes do not suffer severely from the ravages of these larvae. The only remedy which has been found efficient in this neighbourhood, is to water the bushes in the evening, and imme- diately after to dust the under part of the leaves with hot h'me ; but this must be done as soon as the eggs are discovered. There is a disease called segging or hushingf to which the braird of oats in this parish is very liable on highly cultivated land ; and which is evidently occasioned by some insect, though its distinctive charac- ter has not been ascertained. The Curculio pini; from the rava- ges of this insect, and the clay subsoil, the larch tree has never thriven in this parish. The Curculio pyri is oflen seen on the wall trees in the manse garden. Botany. — In a parish where the plough holds such an extensive dominion the Flora cannot be expected to be very interesting. The following is a list of such plants as seem deserving of being enu- merated in a work of this kind. Anenwne nemorosa^ only in one location, on the banks of the Ugie, nearly opposite to Raven's Craig; Arenaria peploides; Botrychium Lunaria ; Ckrysosplenium oppositifolium ; Corydalis dameulata; Drosera longifolia^ rare, the only location with which the writer is acquainted is ia the moss lying between St Fergus and Crimond ; Echium vulgare^ very rare, only one plant having been discovered some years ago on the farm of Ednic, which had most probably been introduced among seed corn from England ; Euphrasia officinalis^ most abundant; Gentiana amarella and campestrisj the latter very abundant; Geum urbanum^ rare, found chiefly about Inverugie ; Glechoma hederacea^ rare in general, but most abundant in the neighbourhood of the Kirktown ; Ilabenaria 192 ABERDEENSHIRE. viridisj rather rare ; Heracleutn Sphondylium^ very abuDdant ; an old woman in the parish, the only person in the neighbourhood who seems to know its value, gives her cows a creeUfuU of this plant in the season for supper, and she says that the milk-pail next morning bears testimony to its virtues. Might not this plant be cultivated to great advantage ? Hippuris vulgaris grows here in great abundance and to, an immense size in some of its locations, particularly in the canal near Scotstown. Humubis lupulus is said to have been found here, but the writer has never discovered it; Hypericum pulchrum and quadrangulum. Juncus balticus is found among the bents near to Rattray. It was first discovered by Alexander Cow, Esq. who brought his specimen to the writer, when first engaged in collecting materials for this account Knappia affrostideOf very rare, only one plant was found among the bents ; Lapsana communis; Ligusticum Scoticum ; Linum catharticum; Lychnis dioica and Flos^cucvli ; Menyanthes trifoKata^ only in one location at the Burn Mill; Mercurialis perennis ; Nymphaus oUhjl^ very abundant near Stone Mill, but only found there; Onams arvensisy at the mouth of the Ugie and on the glebe only ; Papaver Rhceas ; Phalaris arundinacea ; PimpineUa saxifraga ; Pinguicubi vulgaris ; Plantago lanceolata^ maritima^ and Conmopus ; Polygala vulgaris; Pamassia palustris^ most abundant on the links; Pofa^ mogeton densusy pectinatus, pusillusy heterophyllus and natans; Potentilla anserina and argentea ; Primula veris and elatior ; Ha- nunculus sceleratus ; Saponaria officinalis^ only found in the vicinity of Inverugie Castle ; Parietaria officinalis is likewise found only there ; Saxifraga tridactyliies ; Scandix Pecten ; Scrophularia no- dosa ; Spergula nodosa ; Symphytum officinale^ on the glebe and at Inverugie only ; Trientalis Europceaf very rare, only between St Fergus and Kininmonth ; Triglochin palustre, in the links ; Tussilago Farfara^ only at the end of the Mains Park of Inverugie ; Veronica anagaUis^ abundant in the laighs of Scotstown, but only there ; Thalictrum minus ; Vinca minor, near to the old Castle of Inverugie only ; Daucus carota is found on a croft near the vil- lage. Planting. — In the former Statistical Account it is mentioned tbat ^^ there is no wood in the parish, except a few old planes at Inveru- gie.'' Since that period the late James Ferguson, Esq. planted upwards of twenty acres, chiefly along the banks of the Ugie. The present tacksman of Lunderton, about thirty years ago, planted a good many trees for shelter to his residence, as did also the writer's 4 ST FERGUS. 193 predecessor at the manse. These experiments have completely disproved an opinion which was long and most tenaciously enter- tained, that trees would not grow in this parish. It appears, how- ever, that the soil b most congenial to ash, elm, planes, poplar, and alder, and that firs in particular, unless in very dry situations, cannot be accommodated to it. 11. — Civil History. Maps and Plans. — There is an unpublished map of the parish, and plans of its separate divisions, in the possession of the princi- pal proprietor. Papers and Documents. — The writer is not aware of the existence of any thing under this head which would tend to illustrate the history of the parish, with the exception of some old leases granted by the last Earl Marischal, from which no other fact of importance can be gathered, but that wheat was more generally cultivated in St Feigus at that period than it is now. There is also an old paper in the session-chest, under the hand of the same nobleman, authorizing his chamberlain to repay the kirk-session, out of his rents from the lands of Fortree in Longside, the money advanced by them for causewaying a part of the public road. There are other documents too in the same repository, which shew that in former times small bridges, which facilitated access to the church, were built and repaired out of the funds under the management of the kirk-session, even when no guarantee for repayment was granted either by the proprietor or parishioners. Historical Notices, — The Cheynes were proprietors of this pa- rish in the thirteenth century, but at what particular period they succeeded to the property cannot be ascertained. They had other extensive estates in different parts' of Scotland, as appears from ancient chartularies. Sir Reginald Cheyne was Lord Chamber- lain of Scotland in 1267 ; and his brother, Henry, was Bishop of Aberdeen in 1281. The house of the Carmelite Friars in Aber- deen had been built and endowed by their father, Reginald le Cheyne, who, besides other revenues secured to it by the deed of erection, bestowed upon it L.2 yearly out of the lands of Black- water in this parish. Sir Reginald was succeeded in his estates by a son of the same name, who was taken prisoner at the battle of Halidonhill in 1320, and died about the year 1350, leaving two daughters, Mariot and Mary* Mariot married, first. Sir John Douglas, and after his death, without issue, John de Keith fffis^ ven's Craig, the second son of Sir Edward Keith, Great Maris- ABERDBBN. N 194 ABERDEENSHIRE. chal of Scotland, who in her right became proprietor of St Fer- gus. The issue of this marriage continued a separate branch of the Keiths for seven or eight generations. In 1538, the families were again united by the marriage of William, the fourth Earl Marischal, with the heiress of Sir William Keith of Inverugie. From that period the parish continued the property of the Earls Marischal till 1715, when, by the attainder of the then Earl, it es- cheated to the Crown. It was sold by the Crown to the York- Building Company, and repurchased from their trustees by George Earl Marischal, son of the attainted Earl, in 1761, at thirty years purchase of the then rental, which was L. 420, 13s. 8d. Sterling. In 1764) it was sold by Earl Marischal to James Ferguson, Esq. one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and in that family it has since continued. Eminent Characters. — It seems proper that even such an humble chronicle as this should contribute its aid to preserve to posterity the memory of the great Field Marischal Keith, brother to Geoi^ last Earl Marischal, who was born at Inverugie Castle, and, as appears from the parochial register of baptisms, was baptised on the 16th June 1696, by the name. of James Francis Edward. He fell at the battle of Hochkirchen, on the 14th October 1758, in the sixty-third year of his age. Cui genus a proavis ingens clarunique paterns Nomen erat virtutis, et ipse acerrimus arnits. Robert Arbuthnot of Scotsmill, the grandfather of the cele. brated Dr Arbuthnot, who was physician to Queen Anne, and the friend of Dean Swifl, is buried in the churchyard of this pa- rish. The tombstone which surmounts the grave, and on which are quartered the arms of the ancient families of Arbuthnot and Gordon, belongs to the representatives of the late Sir William Arbuthnot of Edinburgh, who expressed great solicitude for its preservation, and at whose request it was repaired some time be- fore his death. Land-owners, — At the time when the former Statistical Account was drawn up, and for long afler, the whole parish was thfii pro- perty of one heritor ; but the present proprietor having sold a small section of it which lies contiguous to the lands of Rattray, in the parish of Crimond, there are now two heritors, George Ferguson, Esq. M. P. for Banffshire, and ^dam Cumine, Esq. of Rattray ; but neither of them reside in the parish. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest entry in the pa- ST FERGUS. 195 rochial register of births and baptisms is the 1st May 1688. This register consists of three folio volumes, but till within the last fif- teen years does not appear to have been regularly kept. Parents formerly were often very negligent in recording the births of their children ; but registration is now enforced. The records of the kirk^session begin on the 1st January 1749, and, as far as regards the management of the poor, seem to have been carefully kept from that time. To the res gesUs of discipline less attention had been paid during the two last incumbencies; but from 1749 to 1772, the details are very minute, and^ very interesting, as illus- trative of the habits and character of the people, though certainly not calculated lo confirm the impression, that ^* the former times were better than these." A registier of deaths has been kept for several years, but hitherto unaccompanied with a nosological table. Antiquities. -^On the banks of the Ugie, and on the most interest- ing site that could have been selected in the parish for such a build- ing, are to bie seen the ruins of Inverugie Castle, once a splendid edi- fice, and the principal residence of the^Earls Marischal. One of the towers, called the Cheyne's Tower, is of great antiquity ; but the greater part of the fabric is supposed to have been built by George, Earl Marischal, the founder of the Marischal College in Aberdeen. Tradition reports, that Sir Thomas Learmont the Rhymer visited this place, and poured forth his vaticinations against it from a stone in the neighbourhood, in such strains as these : InTerugie by the sea Lordkfs shaU thy lands be. The stone on which the Seer sat was removed to build the church in 1763; but the field in which it lay is still called Tarn- mas' stane. The late James Ferguson, Esq. repaired and roofed in the main building of the castle, floored it, and erected an observatory on the top of it, at considerable expense. But the present proprietor, with a greater regard to taste than utility, has dismantled it of these modernizings, and allowed ruin to reassume |;ier empire. The old churchyard close by the coast, and which is still the only burial-ground in the parish, is an interesting object, and, from the loneliness of its situation, peculiarly adapted to be the dwel- ling place of the dead. It is enclosed by a substantial wall, built at the sole expense of the parishioners, in 1751, and repaired by them in 1833. The principal heritor has conceded the privilege 1 9G ABEBDEENSHIRE. of inhumation to the representatives of the former occupiers, whe- ther resident in the parish or not ; and it is to be hoped that the time will never come, when a sacred regard to the place of ^* their fathers' sepulchres," and a wish to be laid in death beside those whom they loved in life, shall cease to be fondly cherished by the people; for feelings like these are akin to piety and virtue. For this lonely spot the late eminent Dr Beattie is known to have con- ceived a peculiar predilection, and to have frequently expressed a wish to have his last earthly home in the churchyard of St Fergus. In consequence of an agreement entered into with the principal heritor, the burial-ground was enlarged in 1833, at the expense of the kirk-session, who, in virtue of authority conveyed to them by that agreement, can now sell permanent rights of sepulture in this peculiarly retired and peaceful domain of th^ dead. In the churchyard may be seen fragments of the fount and other pieces of rude sculpture which had belonged to the old church. It ceased to be a place of worship in 1616. A portion of the south wall to the depth of several feet still remains, but is completely covered by the accumulated soil. Its area, which is pretty distinctly de- fined, shows it to have been a very narrow building. A good many years ago, a silver groat of Robert IL was found at the Castle of Inverugie, and a shilling of Charles I. in plough- ing a 6eld in the parish. A copper spear head was found on the glebe some years ago. The base is a hollow square cone for re- ceiving the pointed end of the shaft, and it has what its possessor calls a pot-^ar, through which a thong had passed to secure it to the shaft. In excavating the canal, a small malleable iron shot was found at the point where the canal makes its nearest approach to the ruins of the Castle of Raven's Craig, on the opposite bank of the Ugie; and more recently, in digging near the base of Raven's Craig, another and a similar one was discovered. These would seem to indicate the early introduction of artillery into this part of the country. These are the only pieces of antiquity, so far as the writer is aware, that have been found or dug up in this parish. They are all in the possession of Adam Arbuthnot, Esq. Peterhead, who has perhaps the best private museum in Scotland, and who, with a liberality that does him great credit, is ever ready to welcome both strangers and friends to its inspection. Modem Buildings. — Since the last Statistical Account was writ- ten, a school-room and schoolmaster's house were built by the late James Ferguson, Esq. who was ever ready to forward any ST FERGUS. 197 iDiproveineDt calculated to elevate the conditioD or to augment the comforts of his tenantry. The school-room, though built about thirty years ago, is yet superior to any other in any country parish in the county. It is well lighted, sufficiently large, and fitted up in a very neat and substantial manner. IIL — Population. In 1755. aooording to Dr Webster's Ubles, 1271 1775, . . 1254 1793, .... 1240 1801, . . . 1270 1811, - . 1378 1821, . 1356 1831, 1334 For the .decrease of population from 1775 to 1793^ the writer is not furnished with the means of assigning any adequate cause. The increase from 1793 to 1801 is accounted for by an influx of strangers employed in cutting the canal, which was in progress during the later part of that period, and that from 1801 to 1811 by the number of labourers from other parishes being engaged in making the turnpike road. The decrease from 1811 to 1821 was doubtless owing to a bleachfield having been given up during the interim, and that from 1821 to 1831 may be traced for its cause to a deficiency of employment in ditching and other agri- cultural improvements — the tenants being less able to lay out money for that purpose, and also to the circumstance of several of the farms having fallen into the occupancy of bachelors. The number of the population residing in the Kirktown and village in 1836, 273 In other parts of the parish in 1836, » . . • 1076 The yearly average of births for the last seven years, . . 26 The average number of ill^itimate births for the same period is nearly 2 The yearly average of deaths for the last seven years, 12 No. of families in the parish, .... 330 Average number of children in each family, within a fraction of • 4 No. of unmarried women upwards of 45 yean of age, . 49 unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50, 35 Average number of persons under 15 years of age, . . 480 betwixt 15 and 30, . 284 30 and 50, . 282 upwards of 70, 79 The number of illegitimate births averages for the last three years, 2^ yearly. Language^ 8fc, — The dialect spoken here is the common patois of the district, called broad Buchan. It has been losing, during the last forty years, much of its provincial peculiarity, and assimilating itself more and more in phraseology, at least, to the English tongue. Many of the words and forms of expression used by very old people are scarcely intelligible to the rising generation. The habits of the people are cleanly. In the article of dress 1 98 ABERDEENSHIRE. there have been many innovations within the last forty years. Silk govrns and silk cloaks are quite common among the females of the better class — and too much of the " hard-won penny fee*' of the maid servant ofk;en becomes the prey of the hawker, to gra- tify a passion for outward adorning. The broad blue bonnet, once so generally worn in this parish, has been almost entirely superseded by the hat, at least in holiday dress. The bellman, and a very worthy patriarch, who has never been of those ** who are given to change," are the only persons who exhibit at church this part of the ancient costume. Amusements, — It was long the practice in this parish for mas- ters and servants to go to the Links together at Christmas to play golf — but the taste for that ancient and healthful diversion, as well as for other rural pastimes, has greatly declined. There are now very few golf-players in the parish. The season of Christ- mas is still marked, as a parenthesis in the monotony of every-day avocations, by servants being allowed an entire day of leisure for themselves — by the improved quality of the bread and beer which cover the board on that occasion — by the custom almost yet uni- versally in use of welcoming Christmas morn by liberal libations of drinking smoins, or, as they are called by the old people, Anof- ting sowins — and by the gathering of friends and neighbours around the social hearth. That the humblest householder in the parish may have his Christmas cakesy a distribution of meal, the gift of a benevolent individual, is annually made by the kirk-session, on Christmas day, to the poor on the roll. The ordinary food of the peasantry is meal and milk, vegeta- bles and fish. About the season of Christmas the poorest fami- lies have generally a little butcher-meat. The use of tea among the females has become so common that it is regarded almost as a necessary of life, and other more real and substantial comforts are often sacrificed to obtain this enervating luxury. Having known the parishioners from my earliest years, I believe I do not lay myself open to the charge of exaggeration or undue partiality, when I say that they are in general a generous and warm-hearted people, kind, afiectionate, and contented in their domestic rela- tions — upright in their dealings — hospitable and friendly in their social intercourse, and proverbially open-handed in their bounty to the poor. They are intelligent and well-informed; and in their political sentiments, with few exceptions, deeply imbued with the spirit of conservatism. 'J'hey are regular in their attendance 3 ST FERGUS. 199 upon divine ordinances, and many of them give evidence of sin- cere piety. It is to be regretted that, in several familiesi there is reason to believe that the duties of domestic instruction and de- votion are either neglected or very carlessly discharged, and that some households exhibit the unseemly aspect of two distinct com- munities living under the same roof, and having no religious in* tercourse with each other — a wall of entire separation in this re- spect being reared between the master and his servants. To this as the prime cause — to the early period of life at which the child- ren of the peasantry engage in service — and to the mode of fee- ing half-yearly in markets, and the migratory habits generated by this system, is to be traced the moral deterioration which has be- come so visible in the class of farm-servants. The evil, is, indeed as yet, less apparent here than in more populous parishes. Many of the servants in this parish are remarkably intelligent, fond of reading, and moral and religious in their deportment ; but they belong almost entirely to that section which are stationary in the parish, and not to that floating portion of the class who change their parochial residence every half-year, and upon whom pastoral inspection, and other salutary and controlling influences can rarely be brought to bear. In adverting to the character of the popula- tion, I should be guilty of an unpardonable omission, if I did not state, what is well known to be the fact, .that they are very temperate in the use of spirituous liquors. The vice of drunkenness is con- fined to a very few individuals, who are not in communion with the church. How long this may continue to be said with truth of the parishioners of St Fergus is rendered very problematical by the strong temptations to which they are exposed in four shops, now opened amongst them, for the retail of spirituous liquors. This is an evil, the fearful increase of which here and in other places, deserves and demands the serious attention of all who possess the means of mitigating or repressing it. Smuggling is entirely dis- continued, and from the vigilant and vigorous measures taken by the principal proprietor for the protection of the game, poaching does not prevail to any noticeable extent For several years there have been no complaints lodged against persons for poaching for salmon in the river ; and it is believed that the misdemeanour, once very common^ is now seldom if ever committed. IV. — Industry. No. of males employed in agriculture, as farmers, cottars, and farm-servants, 258 males employed in retail trade and handicraft, as masters and workmen, 45 200 ABERDEENSHIRE. No. of profeasional and educated men, ..... 4 all other males 20 yean old, (except servants,) including retired trades- ^ men, superannuated labourers, and diseased males, . . . 23 ** ^ male servants upwards of 20 years of age, • • 198 female servants do. do. • • • • 100 It was stated ia the former Statistical Account, that there were 43 weavers in the parish — there is now only one individual who earns a livelihood by that trade, so much has the manufacture of home-made cloth declined. About forty years ago, a lit pig was a necessary utensil in almost every family — but there is not a house in the parish where such an article is now to be seen in use. Affricultiare.^^ Arable land in the parish, 5048 acres. Pasture on farms, . 208 Planted, .... 26 Moss, .... 563 Do. partly improved. 40 Stances of houses, links, and bents, . 215 6200, or in imperial acres 7878* Soil. — The soil in the parish, as regards its adaptation to agri- culture, may be classed under three divisions. Along the coast it is sandy loam and moss, easily cultivated, and producing tur- nips, potatoes, and bulky crops of grain, — the grain, however, is not of so good a quality, or of such weight, as that raised on the stronger lands. The middle division is strong adhesive clay, ca- pable of producing weighty crops of grain, but ill adapted for tur- nip husbandry. The western division is inferior ; some parts of it at no very distant period had been moorish and covered with moss. As a whole, it is composed of clay and moss. A considerable portion of the moss has been redeemed during the last fifteen years, and more is in course of being improved. Since the last Statistical Account was written, upwards of 300 acres of land in different parts of the parish have been brought into a state of cultivation. Mr Cumine of Rattray's improvements on the moss land on his part of the parish have been very successful, and, while they have meliorated the climate, and refreshed the eye^ have greatly enhanced the value of his property. He has con- verted the black and unproductive swamp into fields, bearing abundant crops of oats, turnips, and bear. * There is a considerable discrepance between this computation and that oontained in the former Statistical Account. The measurement here given was furnished to me by Roderick Gray, Esq. factor to both the heritors, who states that it was taken from surveys and tables of contents, which had been repeatedly checked and found correct. I am also obliged to Mr Gray fur other information embodied in this ap* counti and for the prompt and pains- taking manner in which it was furnished. 4 ST FERGUS. 201 Rent oflAind.-^The average rent of the whole arable land in the parish is about L. 1, 2s. 7d. per Scotch acre, or 17s. 9id. per imperial measure. The valued rent of the perish in Soots money, is L. dOOO The real rent in Sterling money, about . L. 5720 In 1761, the yearly rent of the parish was L. 902, 4s. 4d. Ster- ling. In 1766, the whole parish was let for eleven years certain, and a lifetime of the individual tacksmen, at the yearly gross rent of L. 141b, 19s. 5d. Soon after the expiry of the certain period of tack covenanted upon, the liferenters began to drop off; and when the farms which they had occupied were large, they were subdivided, and the rents raised and apportioned among the sub- tenants previously resident on the ferms. Others were allowed to remain at the former rents, when the immediate heirs of the de- ceased tacksmen succeeded ; and where there were no heirs wish- ing to succeed, the farms were allowed to go to, and remain in grass, until almost the whole of the liferents expired, in order to allow the proprietor the means of straighting the marches, and making other necessary arrangements for an improved method of tillage. In 1803, * the whole parish was let at a gross rental of L. 3000 ; and again, in 1822, on a nineteen years' lease now current, at L. 5720. It is worthy of being recorded, that the late James Ferguson, Esq. Mi P. made the valuations, and let the lands at the three periods above-mentioned ; and that the whole rise of rent accrued to himself, and that within a period of less than sixty years, -f* ' Husbandrt/, — It may be interesting to trace the progressive im- provements made in the mode of cropping. By the leases granted in 1766, the tacksmen of the larger farms were bound to sow yearly one acre with grass seeds ; half an acre with turnips ; and to fallow another acre ; and to lay on at least thirty bolls of lime (not shells) upon their land. They were inhibited from taking more than four white crops, besides green crop after the lime, be- fore laying their fields down in grass. By the leases of 1803 they were restricted to the mode of cropping which then obtained in * With this lease the leydling system commenced, which operated one bad effect, from which the land in this parish has not yet entirely recovered. The best of the soil, which, by the old method of tillage, had been carefully gathered to the top of the ridges, then very high and iU-shapen, was by this process thrown into the former furrows— and the crown of the old ridges left thin and bare. The crop produced on these was very light, while that on the old furrows, being often too heavy, lodged and rotted. The crop, too, was unequally ripened — the top of the old ridge being ready for the sickle— 'While the furrow was almost quite green. f For these interesting deuils, the writer is indebted to James Mitchell, Esq. who was fikctor on the estate for many years. 202 ABERDEENSHIRE. Berwickshire, — ^being a six course shift — and were only allowed one white crop. This was \nuch complained of, as the lea crop was frequently destroyed by the grub ; and as it was almost, impossible to bring the soil so soon into a proper mould for turnips. But from this period a complete change took place in the improvement and appearance of the parish. The settlement in the parish, about this time, of a gentleman farmer from Berwickshire, no doubt ga?e an additional stimulus to the spirit of improvement then excited. By the leases of 1822, a seven course, consisting of three grasses, two white crops, turnips, or other green crop, and oats or bear and grass seeds, is that stipulated for and generally adhered to. This mode of cropping seems best suited to the climate and the nature of the soil, and when fairly attended to will yield the greatest re • turns to the tenants, with the least deterioration to the land. If wheat were generally cultivated, some alteration in the prescribed rotation would be requisite ; but though the soil is well fitted for the cultivation of wheat, the climate is rather unfavourable. It is to be hoped, however, as drainage and other improvements pro« ceed, and the mosses are freed of their stagnant water, that the climate will assume a kindlier character. The tenants are en- titled, in virtue of their leases, to sea-weed or ware, and shell-sand from the shore. The shell-sand is a powerful stimulant ; but it is the opinion of the best judges that it should never be applied with- out an adequate quantity of dung. The kinds of oats most gene- rally cultivated are Kildrummy, Hopetoun, potato, and barley oats. Since the introduction of the early kinds of oats, especially the barley oat, the harvests have commenced much sooner than for- merly. The intelligent tacksman of Lunderton, who has kept a regular record of the times of sowing and reaping for the last thirty years, states that, but for the earlier species of oats, the harvest of 1816 would have been as bad as 1782, if not worse. Main drains and ditches, hedges, and fences have been made to a considerable extent. Thorn hedges, though generally planted, have never thriven well ; it were desirable that some other kind should be tried which would afford both shelter and fencing. The south part of the parish is tolerably well accommodated with roads. The northern division has long laboured under a great disadvantage in this re- spect, and it has been impossible for the tenants in that part of the parish, from the want of easy access to their farms at all sea- sons, to go on with their improvements : but this ground of eom* plaint is in the course of being removed. The means of farther ST FERGUS. 203 improYement, of which the soil in all parts of the parish is suscep- tible, would appear to be : I. Easy access to each farm by roads serviceable at all seasons of the year. 2. Keeping the main ditches in good order so as to prevent flooding in winter. 3. Having small ditches around each field communicating with the main ditches, and open furrows so as at all times to let the surface water escape. 4. Trying the effects of furrow-draining. A manufactory of tiles for this purpose might easily be established at .Inverquiny in this parish. There is abundance of brick clay, a ready supply of water, and sand at a short distance. Furrow-draining seems to hold out the only prospect of ensuring a turnip crop on the clay lands, and of rendering bone manure available for that purpose. * 5. A very liberal application of lime, either mixed with earth as top-dressing, or ploughed or harrowed into the turnip mould. 6. Converting the money rent either wholly or in part into a grain rent, payable by an average of the fiar prices for a certain number of years. 7. Ex- tending the leases in conformity with a seven course shift to twenty-one yearsj and arranging the fielding so as to secure on each farm a field of grass in seven years rest. 8. A more care- ful attention in sowing down grass lands, to the predilection of the difierent grasses for their peculiar soils.-}- 9., Encouragement given by the proprietor to trench those parts of the Link lands, about Blackwater and elsewhere, which are found to overlay a rich sub- soil of black mould. The farm buildings have been much improved within the last forty years. They belong, in general, to the tenants. Where the te^^ant builds, he is allowed one half-year's rent at the com- mencement, and another at the expiry of his lease, for walls. The outgoing tenant is paid by the proprietor or incoming tenant for the roofs, according to the valuation of tradesmen mutually chosen. The dwelling-housed on the principal farms are most of them slated, and the offices tiled. * In the absence of furrow-drainage, there can be little doubt but the introduction of the cubaoil plough would be found one of the best substitutes that could be adopt- ed, and eren to thatmodeof draining, when tried, — a necessary auxiliary for slacken- ing the soil, and rendering it pervious to the surface water. The difficulty of raising a turnip crop on the clay lands is not the only hazard which the farmer has to in- cur. There is often a failure of the after crop, from the field being puddled by the operation of removing the turnips, and horn the retained water wasting the dung before the grain crop or grass can benefit by it. f Till the cultivation of the natural grasses be resorted to, a close, rich, and last- ing sward will never be secured on the clay lands. It is, indeed, very questionable whether the advantages resulting from the overcleaning of the soil by the present system of husbandry be suffieient to compensate the extirpation of the indigenous gnuses thereby occasioned. 204 ABERDEBNSHIRE. Live-stock. — Till within these few years, the AberdeeDshire and Buchan, and a nondescript result of crosses from these, were the only kinds of cattle reared in the parish, and little attention was paid to the improvement of stock. But of late, the practice of *' breeding in and in," to which the deterioration in the size and other valuable qualities of the cattle was mainly attributable, has been abandoned, and, by the introduction of the Teeswater breed, a great improvement in the general quality of the stock has been effected. The inaptitude of the soil for turnip husbandry has been a great discouragement to the rearing of cattle in this parish, but the ready communication now opened up with the London market has given a wonderful impulse even here to this branch of rural economy. The subjoined list of live stock has been prepared with much care, and may be regarded as almost correct. Workhorses, . 263 Queysincalf, . 52 Three yean old catUe^ 152 Ridiog ponies, . 8 One year's old cattle, 426 Pigs and swine, . 87 Cows, . . 520 Two years do. 376 Skeep, . • 180 To the above list should be added 8 work oxen four years old and upwards, and about 10 four years old cattle, bought in for feed- ing during winter. The above enumeration, being made with reference to the winter keep, does not include the number of calves, which may average in the season about 450, nor the number of lambs, which may be estimated at 240. It may afford some idea of the agricultural state of this parish to mention, that, on a farm rented at L. 300 per annum, there are 8 work-horses, 14 cows, 22 one-year old stots, 29 two-years old, 20 three -years old, 8 swine, and 14 sheep. Rate of Wages. — A capable farm-servant's wages for one half- year are usually from L. 6 to L. 7, but inferior hands readily engage for L. 4. The wages of female servants for the same period vary from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, according as they are to be exclusively confined to household work, or occasionally employed in outdoor labour. The practice of employing females in spreading manure and other field occupations, which obtains to a certain extent on some large farms in this parish, is objectionable on many accounts, and ought to be discontinued. The above wages are inclusive of lodging and maintenance. Male-servants who are married, in- stead of receiving their food and accommodation in the houses of their masters, have, in most cases, a free house and garden asfflgD-> ed to them during their period of service. They are engaged for the year at from Lf.6, 10s. to L.7, besides having a cow kept for them at the expense of the master, and an allowance of six and a half bolls of 8T FERGUS. 205 meal, and one-half boll of bear for malt Day-labourers earn from 9(1. to Is. in winter, and from Is. to Is. Sd. in summer, with victuals. Harvest fees are, for a man, L.2, and for a female reaper, L.1, 10s. with maintenance. A wooden plough fully mounted costs L.d, 3s. ; a good cart with wheels, L. 10 ; a harrow with tines, I^ 2, 8s. Masons work here generally, by the day at Is. 6d. with victuals ; tailors by the piece at from 5s. to 7s. for a coat, according to the quality. Is. 6d. for a vest, and from Is. 6d. to 2s. for a pair of trowsers; shoemakers generally charge from 9s. to 12s. for a pair of men's shoes ; blacksmiths work at the rate of 4d. per pound of iron, the price of the material being included : peat-casters in the season are paid by the leat of forty cart-loads, at from 17s. to L. I per leat, including the labour of spreading and setting the peats. There are a few poor women who are employed in knitting stock- ings and mits at from 2^ to Sd. per cut of worsted. Others of this class earn a subsistence by making bt-ooms or heather besoms at one halfpenny each. This latter trade affords a convenient opportunity for poverty to plead its wants without assuming the character of the professed mendicant, and in this way it yields a competent income to the few who are engaged in it. Prmfuce.—^ The following estimate is the nearest approximation that the writer can make to the average amount of the annual gross produce of the land in this parish. Inhere are 5061 acres in cultivation on a seven course shift, of which 723 acres in green crop, at L. 4 per acre, will amount to L. 2892 723 in new grass, at L.3, 5s. per acre, . 2349 15 723 in two years old grass, at L.1, 10s. 6d. per acre, 1 102 1 1 6 723 in three years old grass, at L. 1, 10s. 6d. per acre, 1 102 11 6 2169* in grain crop, at 44 quarters per acre, and these at 20s. per quarter wiU yield, ... . 9760 10 L.17,207 8 MUls, — There are three mills in the parish, but to none of these are any of the farms astricted or sucken, though the tenants on Pitfoui^s property are bound by their leases to have their meal made at some one of the mills on the proprietor's estate. At the Stone Mill a large quantity of meal, flour, and pot-barley is an- nually manufactured by the tacksmen, the Messrs Clark, on their own account In 1836, 1508 sacks of meal (of 2^ cwt each) were sent to the London market, 314 do. to Shetland, and 200 do. were sold at home. In the same year 613 sacks of flour, and 100 do. of pot-barley, were made and sold for home consumption. Fishery. — The salmon-fishing on the Ugie has been much in- • This is perhaps rather above the average return. 206 ABERDEENSHIRE. jured by a bar or bank of sand, which the sea has raised at the mouth of the river, and which, by the large quantities of sea-weeds collected upon it, prevents the salmon from entering with ease, unless when a land flood has cleared a passage for them. The salmon do not come up the river before the end of April, and from that time till the end of July they .are considered to be in the greatest perfection. They return to the sea in December. The proprietor of the salmon-flshing is Robert Arbuthnot, Esq. of Ugie Bank. It is let by him at present for seven years, at the average rent of L.45 per annum. V — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ Sfc. — There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest market-town is Peterhead, five mil^ di9» tant, at which also is the nearest post-office. Besides the Kirk- town, there is a small village in the neighbourhood, — an acquisition which it would have been no disadvantage to the parish never to have possessed. The turnpike road from Peterhead to Fraser- burgh traverses the whole length of the parish from south to north, on which a coach runs three times a week between these towns. The bridge over the Ugie, in the line of the turnpike^ which was built in the reign of James II. of England, connects St Fergus with the parish of Peterhead. Ecclesiastical State. — Incumbents. — In 1616, when the parish assumed its present name, Mr James Robertson was minister. He was succeeded by Mr John Robertson, but in what year can- not be ascertained. He again was succeeded by Mr Alexander Hepburn, who was deposed in 1716, for aiding and abetting a mob to proclaim the Pretender King ; and for praying for the Pretender under the title of King James VIII. After a long vacancy, during which it would appear from the records of Presbytery, that the majority of the parishioners, or at least the most influential amongst them, had adhered to the ministry of Mr Hepburn, and kept pos- session of the church, Mr William Leslie was translated from Chapel of Garioch to St Fergus in 1728, but died soon after. In 1729, Mr James Leslie, a brother of the former incumbent, was translated from Crimond to St Fergus.* On the 12th September 1 745, Mr Robert Garden, a licentiate of the Presbytery of Kin-. cardine O'Neil, was admitted minister of this parish. The fol- lowing extract from the session records will shew that bis name • He was the father of the late and grandfather of the present Dr Leslie of Fonloiiii. ST FERGUS. 207 and memorial ought nbt to perish.* In October 1773, Mr John Craigie f was ordained minister of St Fergus, and upon his trans- lation to Old Deer, Mr William Anderson, minister of Evie in Orkney, was translated to this parish in 1798. The present in- cumbent was admitted assistant and successor to the former minis- ter on the 7th March 1 822, and on the 5th March of the follow- ing year succeeded to the full possession of the benefice. Churchy ifc. — The church, which was built in 1768, is convenient- ly situated. * It is in good repair, ceiled, and furnished with three galleries. On the gallery fronting the pulpit is an excellent clock. In the year 1836, the parishioners,*of their own accord, and at con- siderable expense, without any. aid asked or received from the heri- tors, painted the interior of the church, walls, and wood-work, and fitted up the pulpit, precentor's desk, and front of the galleries with crimson cloth, and the windows with painted screens, so that it is now one of the neatest country churches any where to be seen. It is seated for 610. All the sittings are free, with the exception of a small portion of the area, including the pew originally appropri- * « 1772, Nov. 7. Died the Rev. Mr Robert Garden, minister of this parish, much r^retted, who for many years had been a£9icted with palsy, which made his life ahogvther sedentary, yet so well did he bear up under that infirmity, that he discharged the duties of his office with wtinderful alacrity to the last. And though he had been obliged, on account of asthma and weakness of his limbs, to give over preaching himself, yet after sermon he always addressed his congregation with that cheerfulness and warmth which flowed from a real regard for their spiritual concerns, exhorting, admonishing, and instructing with the greatest earnestness. He was a cheerful companion, a warm hearted friend, and a xealous minister. His attachments were firm, his reproofs severe and undissembled. Though his passions wore quick, and often hurried him into extravagances (which in the latter part of his life was ra- ther the effect of his disease, which deprived him of the power of composing his pas- sions, and for which he was touched with real concern when they had subsided,) yet his enemies could not but acknowledge that he was an honest man and a Christian. He was the poor man*^ friend ; he was no man's enemy ; he had his foibles, which is only to say he was a man, but he had his virtues too. In him the deportment of the gentleman and the decent gravity of the Christian were united. He abhorred to stain the latter in order to act the former. He had his natural pride, but it was always pointed to its proper object. It was what was base and unbecoming that he scorned. He loved virtue even in rags. In his confinement books were his amuse- ment, and the Grtek and Latin languages, but especially the former, were his delight. He was the liugubt and the good historian — fond to hear and apt to teach. Whilst these afforded him amusement, the sacred volume taught him wisdom and cheered bis hope. Hie Rock of Ages, the Emmanuel, was the foundation on which he built. He breathed his last, and bade adieu to earth and all its vanities, calling on God, Lord Jesus receive my spirit.** t Mr Craigie possessed very popular talents as a preacher* a strong and well in. formed mind, and a vein of humour often extremely keen and Mircastia. The follow. ing may serve as a specimen of the unsparing application of his wit, when the occa. sioo teemed to justity it. When on trials for ordination, he thought himself rather roughly dealt with by his future brethren ; an old Greek New Testament, very much contracted, had been put into his hainds, but which he contrived, however, to read with ease, and when he was desired to stop, he expressed his sense of the supposed unkind- ness be had experienced, in this caustic reply, ** Well I shall do so, and if ye hae ony mair buiks which ye canna read yoursells yeUl ken wha to apply to." 208 ABERDEENSHIRE. ated to the elders, which the principal heritor lets at from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per sitting, but the amount, or an equivalent, is annually paid into the poor's funds, as afterwards stated, in the form of a do- nation. The manse was built in 1766, but had an addition made to it about thirty-six years ago.* It is a damp, smoky, and cold house, and too limited for the accommodation of a family. The glebe consists of between 7 and 8 acres of good arable land. The stipend is 16 chalders, half barley and meal, converted into money at the fiars prices of Aberdeenshire, and L. 8» 6s. 8d. for com- munion elements. There is a small chapel in the parish belong- ing to a Baptist congregation, which contains between 70 and 80 sittings. They have no fixed minister, but are supplied with preaching once in the six weeks or two months, by one of the iti- nerants of the Baptist Home Missionary Society. They meet, however, every Sabbath, when two of their own members alter- nately preside. The house belongs to one of themselves, and the sittings are free, but L. 1 is annually collected and paid to the owner of the chapel in name of repairs. *^ The number of mem- bers and hearers meeting on the Sabbath (I quote from the writ^ ten report furnished to me by one of the presiding members) sel- dom amounts to thirty persons." Number of families attending the Episcopal chapels at Longside and Peterbead, 17 persons belonging to ditto, - . • 50 families belonging to the United Secession, . . | persons belonging to ditto, - - - • 2 fiimilies belonging to the Baptist congregation, - .7 persons belonging to ditto, - - . • - 14 All the rest of the inhabitants attend the parish church. The average number of communicants for the last seven years is 645. Of these about 25 come from neighbouring parishes, but a like number from this parish communicate with other congregations. There are several extraordinary collections made annually in the church for charitable and religious purposes, which average from L.7 to L.9 each. In consequence of numerous local demands during last year (1836) the kirk-session were obliged to make only one collection for the Assembly's schemes, and to divide it mto four parts. It amounted only to L. 12. Whatever money is raised by the kirk-session for religious objects, out of the parish, is paid into the funds of the ** Presbyterial Association of Deer." The * Since the above was written, the manse has been repaired and enlaiscd in tht most handsome manner by the heritors, and is now a very commodious and oomfinW able dwelling.— January 1840. ST FERGUS. 209 session is composed of five members and a session-clerk. Each of the elders has a separate district assigned to him, and reports, as oc- casion may require, en the moral and religious state of the people, and on the condition of the poor under his inspection. Education. — The parochial is th6 only endowed school in the pa- rish. For several years past an individual, who had received an education sufficient to qualify him for being a clerk, but who has been prevented by disease from prosecuting his original intentions, has opened a school in his own house for reading, writing, and arithmetic. The average number of his scholars is 15 per quar- ter. He is a member of the Established Church. The salary of the parochial teacher is L.34, 4s. 4^d. ; and his school fees may amount to L. 20 per annum. There are several small schools in different parts of the parish, taught by females, at which children learn the elements of reading, and in two of these knitting and sewing are taught. It is much to be wished that the heritors would grant a house and garden, or some such encouragement, to induce a competent female teacher to settle in the parish. The average number of children attending the parish school is 32 in summer, and 54 in winter. The branches taught are, English reading, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, La- tin, geography, and mathematics. The books used are the Bible, M^CuUoch's Lessons, first and second series ; Lennie and Rae's English Grammars ; Stewart's Geography ; Gray, Joyce, and In- gram's Arithmetic; Hutton's Mathematics; Morrison's Book-keep- ing ; Butter's Etymological Spelling- Book, and Wood'^s Etymolo- gical Guide. Poor people find it difficult to furnish their children with the requisite school-books, and there is no common fund out of which this deficiency can be supplied. The teacher endeavours, as Ceu* as possible, to meet this exigency; but it is still matter of re- gret that some provision should not be made for supplying poor children with the requisite apparatus for prosecuting their educa- tion. The intellectual method of teaching is pursued in the pa- rish school. The Bible is daily read as a devotional exercise, and the scholars examined on the passage read ; and Monday forenoon of every week is exclusively devoted to religious instruction, of which exercises on the Shorter Catechism form a principal part. The schoolmaster, who for thirty years faithfully discharged the duties of his office, entered into an arrangement with '^ Dick's Tnistees," about two years ago, to employ an assistant, upon whom ABERDEEN. O 210 ABERDEEN SHIUE. the management of the school has since devolved. The school- master retains his salary, with an addition from the ^^ Dick Fund*' of not less than L. 12 per annum. The assistant is entitled to the fees, which amounted last year to L. 25, lis. 2d., and to the annual allowance from the Dick Bequest, the last payment of which was about L. 27, 15s. The school-fees payable per quar- ter are, for Latin, 6s. ; for arithmetic, geometry, and book-keep- ing, 4s.; for English reading, and writing, including English grammar and geography, ds. 6d. ; for English alone, 2s. 6d. ; for Greek and the higher branches of mathematics, 10s. 6d. There are no young people in the parish between the ages of six and fifteen who cannot read, or who are not learning to read. There are only two individuals above the age of fifteen who are unable to read, but one of these is incapacitated from learning by an or- ganic defect ; and unless a few old people, all above that age have been taught to write. There are no parts of the parish so remote from the school as to prevent attendance on account of distance, but the state of the roads keeps many of the younger children from giving any thing like regular attendance in winter. Mortified Money. — Upwards of one hundred years ago, Mr Ro- bert Cheyne, schoolmaster of St Fergus, left in trust to the -kirk- session 100 merks Scots, the interest of which to be applied *^to the education of poor scholars at the school, who are well disposed, and the elders to see to their education.'' This small fund is still administered in accordance with the benevolent intentions of the donor. Sabbath Schools, — There are five of these in different parts of the parish ; the greatest number attending which, at any one ])eriod in the course of the year, is 120. The books used are the Bible, the Shorter, and Mother's, and Watt's Catechisms, Chal- mers's References, and Gall's Helps. These schools have most of them been in operation since 1822, and, there is reason to be- lieve, have been instrumental in ensuring a more regular attendance at church on the part of the young^n preventing Sabbath de- secration — in leading to an early acquaintance with the word of God-— and in laying the foundation of future usefulness in life^ They are all superintended by the minister, and the teachers be- long to the Established Church. During a considerable part of the year, a Bible class is taught by the minister in the church, immediatelv after divine service on ST FERGUS. 211 the Sabbath. It is intended for the benefit of servants of both sexes, of young people who have left the Sabbath schools, and of all who propose to offer themselves as candidates for admission to the ordinance of the Lord's Supper. It is well and willingly at- tended The great drawback upon its beneficial operation is that most reprehensible practice which obtains among servants of a certain class, of changing their parochial residence every half year. Library. — A parish library was instituted in 1829. It com- menced with a capital of about L.dO, raised by shares of 5s. each, and a few donations. In addition to the above sum, the com- mittee of management afterwards borrowed L. 10. It is now in a very prosperous condition. It is managed by a committee of ten individuals, annually elected or re-elected by the shareholders, and the minister of the parish, who is ex officio preses. The shareholders pay Is. per annum for reading; persons not share- holders. Is. 6d. The shares were originally 5s.; they are now 7s. If a shareholder does not pay Is. annually for reading, he forfeits his interest in the library. The annual income is upwards of L.6, of which L. 1 is paid to a librarian, who attends on the first Mon- day of every month to take in and give out books, and who is re- sponsible for the state in which the books are kept ; the rest is applied to the purchase of new books. The number of volumes is upwards of 300, but many of these are expensive works. The books are well selected, and consist of historical, biographical, scientific, literary, and religious publications. Novels, political pamphlets, and books of a professedly controversial character, are expressly excluded by the regulations. The taste for reading, inspired and gratified by this institution, is yearly increasing in the parish ; and while the rising generation are pressing around the tree of knowledge, it is matter of congra- tulation that they are here furnished with its ripe and wholesome fruit, and not tempted to pluck that which is green and poisonous. Saviriffi Bank. — A savings' bank was established in 1824. The highest sum to which the collective deposits have at any one time amounted is L. 760. The average of the annual investments for the last five years is L. 190, and of the sums withdrawn, L. 1 10. The investments are made by male and female servants, trades- men, and crofters. Some female servants have upwards of L. 30 deposited — the accumulated amount of annual savings. The 212 ABERDEENSHIRE. only drawback upon the beneficial influence of the savings* bank here has been the low rate of interest allowed on deposits. The money is lodged in the Aberdeen Bank. Many are slow to be- lieve that the small amount of bank interest is overbalanced by the security afforded for the principal ; and it is apprehended that not a few -who are in the habit of saving, are tempted by the pro- spect of greater gains, to entrust their hard-won earnings to hands from which they have but a slender chance of ever recovering them. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 56 ; and the average sum allotted to each is about L- 1, 8s. per annum. The regular distributions are made quarterly — but intermediate aid is advanced occasionally, as cases of urgent necessity occur. The annual amount of mo- nies available for behoof of the poor of the parish is from church collections, on an average L. 56, from hire of hearse and mort- cloth belonging to the kirk-session, and from desk money for pro* clamation of banns, L. 4 ; from interest of L. 800 of funds, L.32 ; and from donations from the heritors (Mr Ferguson, L.5, and Mr Cumine, L. 1,) L. 6. The Hon. Mrs Ferguson of Pitfour gives an annual donation of blankets and flannels for the more destitute of the poor on Pit- four property ; and the family at Rattray are very attentive, by domiciliary visits, and seasonable supplies of food and clothing to that portion of the poor who are located on their lands in this parish. A Lunatic Fund was lately established under the management of the kirk- session, to which the heritors contributed last year L. 7, 16s. There is only one lunatic deriving benefit from it, who had obtained a legal claim upon the poor's funds in this pa- rish by industrial residence. He is kept in the asylum in Aber- deen at an annual expense of L. 17, 18s. including maintenance and clothing. The fund is at present completely exhausted. It would be a great improvement on the present mode of admi- nistering relief to the poor to convert the monies quarterly distri- buted to each, either wholly or in part, at the discretion of the ki it- session, into meal. This method would have been adopted before now in this parish, but for the want of agirnal. The session can- not aflbrd, in the present state of their funds, to build a house for this purpose, and, unless the heritors should compliment them with ST FERGUS. 213 one, the plan is impracticable. But what calls loudly for such a mode^of distribution, is the well ascertained fact, that several of the paupers are in the habit of expending the greater part of their quarterly receipts from the parish funds on tea and tobacco, and other luxuries, while they calculate on the bounty of the charitable for the necessaries of life — thus aggravating, by the means intend- ed to mitigate, the evils of their condition. It is matter of hearty regret that that spirit of independence which disdains to subsist on any other exertion than its own, and which was formerly the boast and ornament of our peasantry, is now far less characteristic of the class — and to receive parochial relief is consequently not consider- ed so humiliating and degrading as it was in a bygone generation. The writer has, however, witnessed many cases of the utmost un- willingness to receive the aid, which was but too manifestly needed, and where the greatest delicacy was required in the ministrations of charity, not to injure the fine feelings which had survived the withering influence of the most desolating poverty. There are no travelling beggars belonging to the parish, but some of the more necessitous of the paupers on the roll make frequent appli- cations for meal, and milk, and other necessaries to their better conditioned neighbours. The sympathies of the people are daily besieged by sturdy beggars from other parts of the country, who drain off, by their importunity, much of those supplies which would more properly be made to refresh the habitations of our indwelling poor. Various attempts have been made to rid the parish of this nuisance — but that which seems to promise the only complete re- medy would be the employment of a sufficient number of constables to perambulate the parish. This was partially attempted, but fail- ed from the want of funds to keep up an adequate vigilance. From the interest which the landed proprietors, in general, have in the maintenance of the parochial funds, and the means of their increase, it might be an experiment worth their trial to assess themselves, in their several counties, according to their valued rent, in an an- nual sum, to be augmented by parochial contributions, for the pur- pose of organizing a constabulary of competent force to put down the evil. Inns and Alehouses. — There are no prisons and no fairs held in the parish, and it were most desirable that the same negative re- ply could be returned in regard to alehouses ; but of these, besides a small inn, which affords accommodation to travellers, there are 214 ABERDEENSHIRK. three, and these all connected with shops where spirituous liquors are retailed. Fuel — Peat and turf, of which there is an abundant supply from the mosses in the parish, are the chief materials used for fueL The better conditioned classes mix coals ¥rith the peat, which makes a more lasting and pleasant fire. A lo^d of peats costs Is. 6d Coals are procured from Peterhead, at the average price of Is. dd. per barrel of l^ cwt. Most of the tenants, instead of employing their own servants, as formerly, to dig and prepare their peats, em* ploy a peat-caster, who digs, sets, and dries them at the price al- ready stated per leat. Miscellaneous Observations. The number of farms and crofts in the parish is 203 : of these there are 95 under L. 10 of rent; 56 under L.20; 25 under L. 50; 12 under L. 100; 7 under L. 150; 2 under L. 200; 3 under L. 300 ; 3 above L. 300. From a register kept by Mr Logan at Lunderton, in this parish, from 1806 to 1835, it appears that the earliest day when he be- gan sowing, was 1st March 1832, and the latest, 16th April 1810; that the earliest day when he ended sowing was 25th March 1822, and the latest 28th April 1821 and 1828; that the earliest day when he began reaping was 4th August 1826 ; the latest from some of the years not being noted, cannot be accurately ascertained ; but it is stated in the MS. sent to me, that the harvest of 1812 was the worst in the whole series, and that the finest seed-time was in 1825, when sowing was begun on the 22d March, and con- cluded on the 8th April. The principal changes which have taken place in the state and circumstances of the parish since the last Statistical Account was drawn up, and the means of still farther improvement, have already been adverted to in the present report. The fields are better culti- vated, the stack-yards are more fully stored, the horses and cattle are of a larger size and finer quality, and kept in better condition than they were forty years ago, and all the implements of husbandry are improved in their order, their construction, and their value. The- houses are morfe commodious and clean, and much better furnished. The people are better informed, and every way better conditioned. Poverty has increased, but so have the means of mitigating it, and that, too, in more than an equal ratio. A farmer who died about three years ago, and who had brought up fifteen children, left upwards of L. 5000, wholly amassed by his own in* LONMAY. 215 dustry. At the time the last Statistical Account was written, the number of the poor on the roll was 30, and the fund at interest for their behoof was only L. 120 ; the number is now on an ave- rage 56, but the funds bearinff interest amount to L. 800. At that period there was only one thrashing-machine in the parish, now there is scarcely a farm, or at least very few, without one. In short, the extension of cultivation, and an improved mode of husbandry — the fortnation of the turnpike road — the planting of trees— -the erection of a new and commodious schooUhouse — the practice lately introduced of exporting cattle — and the institution of Sabbath schools, of a library, and savings' bank — may be referred to as indicative of very important alterations. Drawn up February 1837, — Revised January 1840. PARISH OF LONMAY. PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. CHARLES GIBBON, MINISTER. I. — ToPOaRAPHY AND NaTURAL HiSTORY. Name. — The name of the parish, from the oldest records, ap- pears to have been Lonmey,* — an appellation, it is presumed, of Celtic etynoology, and, perhaps, descriptive of the flat super^ ficial character of the parish, and more especially of its northern half, where the church has always been situated. Extent^ <$^. — It extends about 9^ miles from north north-east to south by west ; its breadth varies from 3^ miles to half a mile ; its superficial contents amount, at least, to 28 square miles. It is bounded on the east and north-east, by the German Ocean (which begins here to trend westward, forming the great estuary of the Moray Frith) ; a streamlet divides the parish on the east north* east from Rathen, with which it is also conterminous on the north and north-west and west ; on the west also, and west- south-west, lies the parish of Strichen (misprinted Brechin in the last Statistical Account). On the south-wesi and south are * See InTentory, dated 7th July 1559, Keith^s Catalogue of Bishops, p. 74, 4to edition. It is also found written Longmey in the kirk-session record, beginning anno 1709. Lonmay was a parsonage. 216 ABERDEENSHIRE. the parishes of Deer and Longside, from both of which it is di- vided partly by a branch of the Ugie^ and partly by a streamlet which flows into it. It is touched by St Fergus also on the south, and is bounded by Crimond on the great line of south and south south-east. Topographical Appearances. — The parish is very irregular in its figure, having unequal sides much indented and curved. The line of coast to the eastward, and the short course of the Ugie through its southern extremity, are alone well defined ; towards the centre of- the parish, the opposite lines converge, forming a narrow neck, which separates Crimond from Strichen. There are two or three unimportant ridges, which run from east to west through the parish, besides the benty hillocks, and one or two green braes which skirt the links near the beach. These run from north and by west to south south-east, or thereby. There are two extensive plains, comprehending the bulk of the parish. The northern plain contains the estates of Lonmay, Cair* ness, Craigellie, Blairmormond, a small part of the estate of In- veralochy, and part of Crimonmogate. This plain consists chief- ly of cultivated land interspersed with plantations of wood. The waters of the loch of Strathbeg here also cover, it is supposed, up- wards of 410 Scotch acres, besides near ]40 more in the parish of Crimond. The southern plain is somewhat more elevated, and is broken by rising grounds. It comprehends a considerable part of Cri- monmogate, the estate of Park, and the estate of Kinninmonth. Here are two very extensive peat-mosses, part of the last-mentioned property and of Crimonmogate: They are connected together, and with other extensive mosses in Strichen and Crimond. The coast extends about four miles from the fishing village of St Combs, to near Rattray rocks. The Lonmay shore is a sandy beach, with- out bay or headland. Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere may be il- lustrated by the following tables, shewing the monthly mean of the range of the thermometer ; also a partial series of observations of the hygrometer ; and the pressure of the atmosphere is ascertain- ed by observation with the barometer ; and there is annexed an account of the prevailing winds : LONMAY. 21T Table for year 1825. 1825. Mean Bar. Jan. for 29.67 dOdays. Feb. for 29.691 27 days. March wanting ApriL May. June. July. Aug. for 22 days. Sept. October, Nov. for 27 days. Dec. for 26 days. Yr. Aver. Meant Ther. 29.6^ 29.71 29.58 80.11 29.3 29.51 29.47 29.20 29.18 4P 40.8 47 59 Hygr. 681 66| 54 53S 42J Prevailing Wind and Character of the Weather. 62.31 58 51 41 42 29.52^ 50 53 60 57 55 67 From W. S. W and S. Fine, fresh and open. No snow follf and but little rain. Between S. and W . Great gales of wind. First half of month frosty. S. £• and B. first half; fine, clear, and warm. N., N. £. and N. W. last 7 days ; cold, snowy, foggy. E. first part ; damp, and foggy. N. last part ; rough and stormy. Middle, tolerable. is. S. £., S. W. 19 days. Cloudy, cold, and rough; N. N. E., N. W. 9 days. 2 W. then showers and fine! weather ; lastly, cold, and showery. N. and by W. 18 days. S. and S. K. 10 days. 3 W. Dryer and hotter than usually known in this country. N. N. E., N. W. 14 days. S. S. E. and S. W. 10. 3 W. & E. Fine month ; plentiful rain, then clear and hot S. £. greatest part. N. and by W. one-third. First jwrt fine ; remainder disagreeable & disastrous for harvest. N. W. and N. £. 19 days. S. and S. W. 12. S. £. 2. Wet and stormy. S. and S. W. 15 days. N. W. 9. S. E. and N. £. 6 days. S. S. E. 17 days. E. 2. S. W. 4 days. N. E. 3 days. N. W. 7 days. Fine and open weather till Christmas, then succession of storms. 56 1827. Barom. Therm. riygr. Sept. for 13 days. 29.46 54 Oct. for 31 days. 29.52 53 Nov. 29.61 for 23 days. 44ifor 29 days. 64 for 17 days Dec for 31 days. 29.23 43 1828. Jan. for 31 days. 29.60 4U Feb. for 29 days. 29.52 m March for 31 days. April for 28 days. 29.52 29.44 44 45i 217 days. 29.48 45 223ds. Prevailing Winds. Days, 2i S. W. ; 6» S. E. ; 2 S. ; 2 N. E. General character, dry, mild, and warm, anc pleasant. Days, 13 S. and S. E. ; 24*8. W. ; 3 E. ; 84 N. and N. B. ; 34 N. W. and W. General character, foggy, damp, and rainy. Days, S. and S. W. 13 ; S. E. ij ; N. W. lOi'; N. and N. E. 34 ; W. I4. Gen. char. variable, fair, and stormy ; 20th, snow ; last week, fresh, mild, and open. Dayu, 23 S. W. ; 3 S. E. ; 5 N. W. and W. Gen. char, mild and open, with little frost ; no snow ; much rain. Days, 19 S. E. ; 6 S. W. ; 4 S. ; 3N. N. A^ . and E. Gen. char, mild at first ; middle, stormy, but no lying snow ; end, fine. Days, 15 S. E. ; 10 S. W. ; 3 S. ; 3 N. W and W. Gen. char, at first mild ; the re mainder disagreeable; incessant storms of rain and snow. Days, 14 N. W. ; 3 W. ; 1 N. E. ; 74 S. W. 3 8.; 24 W. Gen. char, variable. Days, 10 S. E. ; 7 8. W. ; 2 S. ; 7 N. E. ; 8 N. W. Gen. char, windy and rainy, with some thunder ; 28th, good deal of storm, with few fine days. 218 ABERDEENSHIRE. ' Therm. Meteorological Table, 1832. Winds. Jan. for 31 days. Feb. for 29 days. March for 31 dajrs. April for 30 days. May 31 days obs. June. July. Aug. 29 days obs. Sept. 31 days obs October. Not. Deo. 40* 43 49 51 57* Bar. 29.55 29.47 29.38 29.84 29.68 Kain Fal. 1.02 inch. 10.84 1.68 2.34 1.89 1.90 29.49 29 days obs. 59^i 1329.55 150.71 13 days obs. days obs. 59 29.48 56 50 42 38| days oba. 29.63 29.56 29.41 29.42 lays i.28 29 days obs. ad7 2.33 3.32 2.34 Yr. Aver.|49 almostl29.53T'g .2 inches. Days, 15 S. W. ; 8 S. £. ; 1 S. ; 2 N. ; 8 N V^ * 2 Wt Days, 14 k i 11 S. W. ; 2 S. E. ; 2 N. W. Days. 9. S. W. ; 3S. E.; 4 S.; 9 N. W. ; 5 W. ; 1 N. E. Days, 3 S. ; 7 S. £. ; 7 S. W. ; 8 N. E. ; 2 N. W. ; 3 E. Days, 1 S. ; 4 8. £. ; 2 S. W. ; 4 N ; 5 N. £ ; 9 N. W. ; 4 Tariable ; 2 E. Days, 9 S. E. ; 10 N. E. ; 9 N. W. 2 Tft- riable. Days, 3 S. E. ; 8 S. W. ; 2 N. ; 3 N. W. ; 1 Tariable ; 13 days obserred. Days, 5 S. ; 3 S. £. ; 6 S. W. ; 1 N. ; N. £. ; 6 N. W. ; 2 E. t 1 Tariable. Days, 2 S. ; 19 a W. ; 9 N. W. Days, 7 S. ; 2 S. E. ; 11 8. W. ; 2 N. ; a N. W. ; 4 W. ; 1 E. ; I changeable. Days, 8 S. E. ; 6 S. ; 8 8, W. ; 3 N. W. ; 1 N. £. ; I W. ; 3 variable. Days, 4 S. £. ; 5 S. ; 11 8. W. ; 3 N. W. 3 W. ; 5 variable. Hydrography. — The estuary of the Moray Frith may be said to commence on the eastern boundary of this parish, as the land trends to the north-west and west north-west to nearly west, and by north. Perennial springs are not numerous, either in the north or south ends of the parish. A good deal of the water is of a brownish co- lour, as it passes through sand intermixed with iron ores : where rock is found which is prevailingly sienite or greenstone, there, and wherever clay is met with between the upper soil and bed of the spring, the water is pure, cold, and excellent Towards the southern extremity of the parish, wells are dug to the depth of 30 feet through shingle and broken slate-stones of a red colour. There are various mineral springs — chalybeates. Lakes. — There is only one considerable lake, viz. the loch of Strathbeg, covering, as is said, about 550 Scotch acres, of which more than three-fourths are in this parish, and the rest of it within the parish of Crimond. The average depth of its water is about 3^ feet : its greatest depth does not exceed 6^. This lake, as stated in the former Statistical Account, was originally formed by means of the sands being drifted by the wind so as to block up the outlet of the stream called the burn of Strathbeg, which flowed LONMAY. 219 some 200 years ago into the sea, near the village of Rattray in Crimond, which was also overwhelmed with sand. But there is no legitimate basis whereon the gigantic calculation might rest which was proposed by the ingenious writer of the account now referred to, and whereby he proposed to prove ** that the evapo- ration from the Caspian sea is sufficient to counterbalance all the water poured in from the rivers which empty themselves into it" It is believed, however, that till of late years there was little ap- parent outlet of the water of this lake into the sea; but then a constant filtration was visibly taking place, occasioning deep and dangerous shifting quicksands. For some years past, a distinct watery line can be traced by the eye through the sandy beach, along the margin of which the sand is saturated with the oozing water ; and to this additional means of escape is to be attributed the fact of the comparative diminution of the waters of Strathbeg. In the year 1817, the water was four feet higher than it now is at a gangway placed near a boat-house, built by the present proprietor on the west side of the loch in 1809. It is matter of observation to old persons, as well as of tradition, that the sea has receded con- siderably, and left a much greater extent of sandy beach on the eastern boundary of this parish. In 1796, the number of Scotch acres of sandy ground between the sea and the links is stated, on the plan of the estate of Lonmay, to be, per measurement, 398, ex- clusive of bents. There is now found to be 1 126 acres 5 roods : and, allowing for any little inaccuracy in either of the measure- ments or both, the increase is doubtless great. An attempt was made by a Mr Sellar, forty-four years ago, to drain this loch : Seve- ral thousand pounds were spent in|this attempt, whichproved a com- plete failure. The open canals which he constructed were soon blocked up by drifting sand. It would seem that any after operation of this kind, to afford the probability of success, must be conducted by covered conduits, and, after all, perhaps, the expense would be more than commensurate with the profits to be drawn from culti- vating the present bed of the loch. This bed consists, for the most part, of sandy soil, enriched somewhat by the decomposition of fishes, by the shells of the large mussel, and also by the alluvial deposits conveyed during occasional swells of the stream which con- stantly flows into the lake. Indeed, it seems unlikely that any pro- prietor of taste would choose to part with a natural object of consi- derable interest in the landscape, as well as a source of many days of summer amusement in pleasure-boat sailing and fishing, for all 220 ABERDEENSHIRE. the pecuniary advantage which, at a distant period, his heirs might come to enjoy. There are a few islets on the loch, but there has been much neglect in leaving these, as well as the ground which skirts the margin of the lake, unadorned with planting. A small patch near its edge was tried a few years ago, the rapid growth of which will, it is hoped, encourage the proprietor to proceed on a more extended scale. The scenery at present around the loch can scarcely be termed picturesque. It is bounded on the east by a line of benty sand hillocks: to the north there is a fipe grassy extent of downs or links, covered with cattle for six months of the year, and affording constant pasturage for sheep. Geology and Mineralofft/.^-^The prevailing rock within the parish is sienite and greenstone. There is a vein of limestone in the north- east end of the parish, on the estate of Craigellie, which runs west- ward through Rathen to Strichen, &c Rolled blocks of granite are occasionally found. Gravel abounds in one of the ridges intersecting the estate of Kinninmonth, in the south end of the parish, as also occasionally on the estate of Craigel- lie. Clay of fine quality abounds as subsoil on Caimglass, along the north-west bank, near the sea ; and also from the sur&ce to a con- siderable depth along the ridge which divides the upper from the lower part of Crimonmogate. In other parts of the parish, occa- sionally a thin layer of coarse clay is found, mixed with coarse sand, about six or eight inches from the surface. Bog iron ore abounds on the estate of Lonmay, and peat in larger masses in the exten- sive mosses in Crimonmogate and Kinninmonth; and in these mosses are many remains of oak, common an{l black. Of the last some fine specimens have been preserved, and made into cabinet furniture by Mr Bannerman of Crimonmogate. There are like- wise found many remains of birch trees, hazel-nuts, alder, and fir. Almost everywhere decomposed roots of plants in great variety are found, below the till or pan which abounds in the flat part of the parish. The upper soil of this parish is, for the most part, a dry, light, black, sandy soil, very slightly cohesive, resting on a coarse hard bed of red sand in the north plain of the parish. This red sand is full of iron ore, and is so hard as to require repeated blows of the pick-axe to pierce it, and thereby it is detachable in laige masses from the finer white sand beneath. The clay soils have been already mentioned. There are some intermediate kinds on the estate of Crimonmogate, the south side of Craigellie, and on part 3 LONMAY. 221 of Park, Blairmormond, and Kinninmonth. There is, however, a very small portion, indeed, of a loamy nature, and little or no marl has been found. There are no mines of any kind within the parish. Fishes. — The loch of Strathbeg abounds with trout, both red and yellow ; with perch, (Grst introduced by the present proprie- tor from th6 late Mr Ferguson of Pitfour's pond) ; also with fresh- water flounders, and eels of great size and in great numbers. The sea affords on this part of the coast tl\e finest cod, both white and red ; ling, and sometimes tusk, haddock, whiting, skate, holi- but, turbot, sea-trout, flounders, including plaice and soles, which last, for want of the trawl-net, are but rarely caught. Cat-fish and John Dories, both of fine quality, are occasionally taken, though rarely. Herring are met with, but the fishing ground is chiefly within the Moray Frith. Shoals of dog-fish are seen dur- ing the herring-season, and the whale called Finner; also the grampus and porpoises in considerable number. The coal-fish is in swarms, and in two of its first stages of growth is tolerably good food. jBote»y.— The writer of this is indebted for a very extensive, and, it is believed, correct list of the indigenous plants proper to this parish, to a medical practitioner residing in this neighbour- hood, (Dr Cow,) who is proposing to publish a work on this sub- ject, comprehending the district of Buchan. There are 237 plants mentioned in this list, but, as the greater portion of them are com- mon to all parts of the country, and none peculiar to the parish, it is not thought necessary to insert it. A few specimens of the sea holly have been found by the above-mentioned gentleman. Forests and Plantations. — Although the soil in this parish, when disturbed to any depth, almost universally affords proof of the con- tinuity of the forest here in olden times, yet there were not forty trees to be seen above ground within its bounds, fifty years cigo. There are now 222 Scotch acres under wood, a large proportion of which has been planted within the last twenty years, and a good extent within the last three or four years. Scotch firs were first tried, being thought best adapted to the soil and climate ; but experience has proved that idea erroneous, where there is but little previous shelter. Alders, willow, elder, and poplars, should be first planted, and thickest on the outer borders of the plantation. The other kinds proper for this parish are found to be larches, ash, elm, and especially beech, which last is unquestionably the tree 222 ABERDEENSHIRE. of Buclian. It has the foHowing peculiar advantages over others — its roots pierce more readily and effectually through the hard iron sand, and agree with the under soft sand ; it grows free of fog or tree fungus ; thrives under the drop and branches of other trees ; it puts out a number of leading shoota^ and these are seldom or ever blighted, — not being so early as to suffer from the cold and often frosty winds of spring. The beech, moreover, is feathered with branches from top to bottom, and in the course of thirty years overtakes all other trees in height. Where there is previous sheU ter, pines of various species may be planted with advantage ; andy after being three years in the ground, push rapidly, and assist by their shelter the growth of their neighbours. Oaks also thrive well, and have been too sparingly planted here« The sycamoi)B, or pseudo-phtanusy and the rowan or mountain-ash are both bardy trees, and are said to be indigenous. The birch thrives well, but is not a lofty tree here. Limes look healthy, and come to tole« rable size. The horse-chesnut does well where sheltered. Most flowering shrubs and evergreens which have succeeded north of the Tay, seem to agree with our light soil, but require most of them protection from the climate, especially from the cold winds of March and April. But, above all others, May is our trying month, which " brings down many wounded by her.** II. — Civil History. Land-^wners.^^lihe land-owners at present are, Thomas Gor- don, Esq. of Buthlaw, proprietor of Lonmay and Cairness, prin* cipal heritor and patron ;* 2. Charles Bannerman, Esq. of Cri* monmogate ; 3. James Russell, Esq. of Kinninmonth ; 4. William Shand, Esq. of Craigellie; 5. John Lumsden Sheriffs, Esq. of Blairmormond ; 6. George Fraser, Esq. of Park ;t and 7. Colonel Charles Fraser of Inveralochy. Parochial Registers. — The parochial register begins anno 1709. The first sentence following the title is worthy of attention: " 1709, Sept 24, This congregation having for near two yean been without an Established minister since the death of Mr Hous« ton, late Episcopal incumbent here, the people and heritors save- ral times endeavouring to have a gospel minister among them, but still differing and dividing in their choice of the person : at length a young man, Mr Thomas Gordon, Preacher of the Gospel, by * He is now a general officer in the Royal Greek arniy, and author of a book which deserves to be generally read, The History of the Greek ReTolution. t Deceased since the above was written. LONMAY. 223 appointment both of synod and presbytery, preached, &c. where- upon the presbytery did legally and orderly call the said Mr Gor- don to be minister/^ The entries made in the session record are very full during Mr Gordon's incumbency, which ended at his death in 1743. Be- sides the ordinary account of poor's money and matters of disci- pline, there are some notices of a miscellaneous character, which serve to illustrate times past. Collections are reported for repair of roads, bridges, the harbour of Banff; in 1718, for the distressed Protestants in Lithuania; in 1726, fiisting and humiliation on account of scorching drought ; in 1723, thanksgiving for deliver- ance from pestilence raging in foreign countries, and especially in France.* Inquests on the bodies of murdered persons seem sometimes to have been left to the kirk- session. 1727, April 9, the minister reported that *^ he understood there was a design among the heritors of this and the two neighbouring parishes of Rathen and Crimond to erect aw Episcopal meeting-house near to this church, as yt place most centrical to them all ; and it was found by the unanimous sentiment of the session that this designed meeting-house was promoted from very malice and splen to the established government of church and state, and to instil into the people of this corner, principles of rebellion against the Govern- ment, and favour for a Popish Pretender ; and as they were per- suaded of this from weighty reasons, which are not proper to be insert here so particularly from this consideration, yt all the com- mon people of these three parishes, and especially in this, had always been most punctual and precise attenders upon, and par- takers, of all gospel ordinances dispensed by yr respective minis- ters, had frequently signified their satisfaction with yr ministers, and resolution to adhere to yr ministry, unless they should be compelled (as they feared) to attend a worship /ringed with cere- monies (by yr respective masters)," &c. And it was found that the principal promoters of this division, and intenders to have the meeting-house near this church, were " Mr Fraser, present heritor of the barony of Lonmay, who was engaged in the late rebellion, and still continued in yt same strain against the Government and Gospel ministry ; and also William Cruden, one of the Fraser- burgh posts, a nottour Bourignian in his principles," &c &c. * Id 1737, Provincial Synod of Aberdeen appoint a day for humiliation on ac count of abounding sin, and particularly bloodihedt under which this province groans. In 1741, King and Church appoint a fast on account of threatened famine. 224 ABERDEENSHIRE. 173*2, Dec. 10, Xhe minister reported ^' that qun the fore wall of the church was taken down, yr was a little cut stone above the big door, containing an account qun and by qum yr church was built, with ye ministers' names and entry there in office : and yt ye cutting of the sd stone was very bad, and so defaced yt it was scarce legible, and yrefore he had caused buy, cu/, co&tcr, and set up another stone, containing what was written on the former." This stone is built into the present church*yard wall, and con- tains what follows ; ** This house was built for the worship of God by the parish of Lonmay, 1607 — Mr Thomas Rires being minister then, and three years before at the old church. After him, Messrs William Rires, James Irvine, and John Houston were ministers successively — next, Mr Thomas Gordon was or- dained minister of the Gospel by the Presbytery of Deer, with consent of all concerned in the parish, September 24, 1709,'' &c. The last mentioned minister died in 1743. His successor, Mr Sim, died in 1752; and Mr Lundie, the third Presbyterian mi- nister from the Revolution, died in 1807, May, after being five years pastor of the parish. Mr Shearer, the fourth in order, died in 1810, February, and the present minister was settled in May 1810. Antiquities. — There are no antiquities in the parish, unless we mention a Druidical circle, which is very entire at Newark, in Cri- monmogate. The centre stone is of great size, and (as well as se- veral others composing the circle) must have been brought from a great distance. We may also mention the site of an old castle, called the Castle of Lonmay, in the Links thereof, near the sea, from which all the stones have been carried off, and employed in building farm-houses, &c ; but, except the name, all tradition re- specting this building is lost. Modern Buildings. — Of modern buildings, the principal one is the House of Cairness. founded some years ago by the father of the present proprietor: the plan by Mr James Playfair, Ar- chitect, Edinburgh. It was finished in the year 1799, at an ex- pense of about L. 25,000. The porch, which is a very chaste construction after the Grecian model, having four Ionic pillarS) is of granite, as also the carved cornices. The granite was brought from the neighbouring parish'of Longside. The body of the house is built of greenstone, or what the masons call heathen^ quarried on the estate. It is truly a fine house, both in design and execu- tion. Another elegant building has been erected a few years ag6 LONMAY. 225 on the neighbouring estate of Crimonmogate by Mr Bannerman the proprietor, at an expense exceeding L. 10,000. IIL — Population. Population In 1801, - 1607 1811, - 1627 1821, . 1589 1831, .' 1798 Number of famiKes in the pariah in 1831, • . . 374 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 202 trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 1 19 Total number presently residing in St Combs, . . 291 the country, - - . 1508 Of whom males, 890 ; females, 909. Yearly average of births as nearly as can be ascertained, . 47 of marriages, about • - - - 12 ofdeatbs (no obituary kept but) supposed to be, . 18 Of which belong to St Combs yearly, - . . .7* Average number of persons below 20, - . . 957 between 20 and 70, females, 394 ; males, 361 755 70 and 80. males, 45 ; females, 23 68 80 and 90, males, 10; females, 7 17 above 90,-2 1799 In each fitmily, average number of children, - . .4 Number of insane, 2 ; fiituousi 1 ; deaf and dumb, 3. Character of the People. — The habits of the people are quiet, or- derly, and industrious. Their meals are frugal in the extreme, con sisting almost wholly of farinaceous food, milk, potatoes, greens, &c Fish are, however, occasionally used, especially skate, and at the approach of winter, a fat small-sized ox or heifer (often of the Shetland breed, bought for the purpose,) is not unfrequent- ly shared between three or four families. Undoubtedly the people are disposed to be content and satisfied with a very moderate sup- ply of the humbler comforts of life ; but for some years past, diffi- culties have increased in the way of their procurement. There is little or no capital left amongst them, owing to the deterioration of the value of agricultural produce, including cattle, and which is wholly disproportioned to any reduction which has taken place in the cost of rent, labour, and other farm charges and expense of ne- cessary articles of consumption. Degression of circumstances has more and more prevailed in the case of those who were moderate- ly provided with the means of life, and the reduced state of each class acting disadvantageously on its inferior, has occasioned the in- crease of poverty to be felt in rather an alarming manner, sq that * A great many burials take place of pcrM>ns dying in Kinninmonth in the adjacent burial-grounds of other parishes. ABERDEEN. P 226 ABERDEENSHIRE. great exertions have become necessary to keep up the system of vo- luntary provision, so as to be efTectual for the help of the sick poor, the aged, and unemployed females. The people are in general creditably attentive to their religions and moral duties ; they are well informed considering their op- portunities. Perhaps we ought not to omit remarking in this place, the injurious tendency of the excise laws at present in force, which discourage the making of home-dried malt liquors, and, consequently, reduce the use of these, to the great detriment of tem- perance and health ; whilst the more intoxicating distilled spirit is sold at a cheap rate, tempting farm-servants and others to dram« drinking, and affording facilities to all who are so inclined to even- ing meetings for gossip and tippling, and thence to thriftless and improper habits. IV. — Industry. A. R. F. Number of acres Scotch — waflte, moss, and moor and stony, • 2056 - or which might be cultivated, . - - - - 670 In wood, - - - - - . 222 Cultivated or in pasture, - - - - - 6488 Total in Scotch acres, . . - 8766 2 11 Almost every kind of forest tree which is ordinarily planted in Scotland has been tried here. Rent* — 56 Acres Scotch, on Tnveralochy, at L. 1, 15s. per acre. 1371^ Oo. Crimonmogate, 18s. dd. 2068} Do. Lonmay and Cairness, also glebe, 1 7s. 3d. 252 Do. Park, 17s. 6d. 780 Do. Craigcllie, 16s. 360 Do. Blairmormond, 15s. Sd. 1600 Do. Kinninmonth, Ids. 6d. Total Scotch acres arable, 6488, at 16s. 7j^d. Average value, L. 5993, 8s. per annum. Grazing Rent — The average rent of grazing at the rate of L.2 per ox, of 40 stone English weight grazed, is over the parish in- field and outfield inclosed, about L. 1, 4s. per acre. Wages, — The rate of labour for diflFerent kinds of farm-work is, per diem, 2s. harvest; without board. Is. 3d. during winter, and Is. 6d. during summer; masons, 2s. 6d. summer*work> and Is; 8d. winter-work; carpenters, 2s. 3d. summer. Is. 6d. winter; smith-work charged per piece, and very high. Cattle and Sheep. — It is well known that Buchan has long been celebrated for its cattle. Formerly an improvedcross from the High- land small-horned bull, with the larger cow of this country, was in high esteem both for symmetry, compactness, and weight. The polled or dodded cattle succeeded, and for the last twenty years LONMAY. 227 preceding 1830, were in great demand, and indeed still bear a high price in the southern markets, and the top price in London. The short-homed cattle, however, are beginning to supplant our own Buchan breed. A considerable difference of opinion prevails as to their comparative merits. One disadvantage belongs to the large short-homed ox, that he is too heavy in the carcase for driv- ing to a distant market. His superiority consists in his feeding to a greater weight, and coming sooner to the home-market for the flesher. Sheep. — The sheep of this country are the produce of a mixed breed. They carry a weighty and tolerably fine fleece, and their mutton is well flavoured, but inferior to the black or the white-feced Highland six year-old wethers. These last are imported annually, and fed for the table. Mr Bannerman of Crimonmogate has imported some South Down and LiQColnshire sheep, and has a large stock of fine half-bred English sheep in his lawn. Horses. — Great attention has been paid for some years past to the rearing of horses. There is a very striking change in this respect between the present strong, fine built draught horses, ploughing in pairs, and the dwarfish smalUboned beasts, six or even eight of which used to be seen, forty years ago, attached to the clumsy plough then in use. Every year, prize stallions, both draught and blood, travel through this and the neighbouring parishes. General Gordon of Cairaess, six years ago, brought three fine Arab stal- lions from Greece, two of which have got stock in the parish, which promise well for the saddle. Piffs. — Pigs are raised in considerable number, and of a good kind, being improved by a mixture of the Bedford and Westpha- lia, Orkney and Chinese. The close-hoofed kind have been also tried, but have been given up on account of the redness of their flesh. Husbandry. — The husbandry in this quarter deserves a very different character from that bestowed on it in the former Statis- tical Account of the parish, being in general both laboriously and skilfully conducted. Neither does it owe its advancement, as the writer of the first account supposes, to the introduction of lime as a manure, which in general does not suit, the soil being sandy ; but bone dust has been applied for the last five or six years, with very great success both for green crops, for which it is chiefly used, and for surface-dressing pasture, or for laying down with sown grasses. Near the coast, sea-ware is mixed with compost for fallows, and 228 ABERDEENSHIBE. applied to the inferior soils unmixed before the ley is broken up for white crop. In certain cases, it is applied to the stubble field, when a second white crop is taken ; and it is universally esteemed as surface-dressing for pasture. It is needless to remark, that a regular rotation of cropping has been long observed. A seven shift is now most approved in this quarter. There is a good deal of bear or big, raised after the green crops, and but little barley, except on some few patches of fine infield near the sea-side. Rye has been raised with success on the poorest soils if dry ; but there is no home demand either for the grain, or straw for hat manufac- ture. The soil of Lonmay is best adapted for raising grass, (which is very early,) and turnips. A small proportion of the soil is ca- pable of producing above seven or eight returns. The best illustration we can furnish of the improvement which has taken place on the face of this part of the country, is by stat- ing the number of acres reclaimed from waste, as under : — Years Acres. In wood or cultivated. Left uncultivated. 465 links and bont, 536 moor, bog, &c. )776, Crimonmogate.* 996 moor and moss, &c. Besides the above, about 260 acres, styled arable pasture, is now under the usual rotation of cropping.-(- Another test of the in- creased value of the land is obtained from the comparative rentaL In 1795, according to the former Statistical Account, the rent of the parish was two thousand guineas, it is now L. 5S95. There are two water meadows in the parish, one on General Gordon's, and the other on Mr Bannerman's estate. The gene- ral endurance of leases is for nineteen years. On the supposition that a seven years course of rotation is the most proper, the term ought to be extended to at least twenty-one years. The enclosures are almost all of stone, of which dikes, without cement, are built of great strength, and with much neatness. As, however, outlying stones are scarce, enclosing is attended with much outlay of capital. Where roads intervene a sloping face of earth is left outside, which is sometimes planted with thorn or 465 4m 100 56 840 • Much has also been done on the other estates, but the above examples will f What is called outfield does not support thu sown grasses above two or three years, after which the inferior and coarser natural grasses return. This remark ap* plies to much of the thin land in the parish, which must, therefore, be sur&ce^rce- sed, with a view to continued pasturage ; or else be brolcen up frequently, and kid down of new with sown grasses. Mr 13annernr:8n is now making extensive experi- ments in burning peat moss, with a view to reclaim vmntc ground. LONMAY. 229 beech. The farm steadings have been much improved ; but there still remains a good deal to be done in that department Improvement — What may be termed the grand improvement introduced of late years, is trench-ploughing, with four oxen or four strong horses, once in the rotation. By this operation a greater depth of soil, and fresh soil has been procured, and by this means the growth of plants tyis been in many places favoured by the pan or till being pierced. By trench ploughing, greater moisture is obtained in dry seasons, for the roots of plants are thus allowed to descend, and, on the other hand, in rainy seasons the surface water is not kept up, but is speedily absorbed by the finer and softer sand subsoil. Obstacles to Improvement. — Want of capital is the crying griev- ance, and its effects are felt yearly more and more. Small farms, in consequence of this and the deterioration in the value of pro- duce, cannot afford profits, after payment of rents, sufficient to maintain the occupiers and their families. It is truly wonderful how any of them can continue on their present footing. They work hard, and live with the utmost frugality; and they contrive to appear in decent clothing at church, and to give their children Christian education. I am sorry to say, their comforts, which were visibly increased, are again reduced. Fisheries. — We may mention three kinds : the cod-fishing, salt- cured, and sold wholesale. The fish is sold in retail from house to house for food. St Combs is the only fishing station in the pa- rish. The St Combs fishermen go with their herring-boats to Fraserburgh. Cod fishing, yearly average, winter, . . L.162 ^ 1 1^502 Do, do, summer, to third week July, 860 J Home trade in fish for food, per annum, . 25 ^ To which add sale of fish, . . 17 10 OV 70 Fish dunghills sold, . . 37 10 1 Herring, fishing from July to first week of October, Id^boats, at 150 cranes per boat, yearly average at lOs. per crane, . 975 L.1567 The whole rent paid for houses and gardens to the proprietors of St Combs is L. 61, 4s. Average gross amount of raw Produce. — Strict accuracy is hardly attainable in furnishing information on this head. Few agricultu- rists in this part of the country make regular entries of returns of produce in their farm accounts, or of sales, so as to furnish an ave- rage valuation thereof, and the same holds true of their live-stock. Details of profits cannot be obtained, so as to enable us to treat 230 ABERDEENSHIRE. the subject otherwise thau hypothetically. The following table has, however, been framed after due inquiry and consideration, and will be found perhaps to approach the truth as nearly as the nature of the case will admit Value at 7 years avenge of fiar prices Aberdeenshire.* 225 Scotch acres yearly in white crop, (1st quality,) at 6 returns, produce in bolls 1350, L.1316 5 259 Do. (2d quality,) at '5 returns, bolls 12d5, . 1262 12 6 2220 Do. (dd quality,) at 4 returns, bolls 8880, . 8656 L.112d6 17 6 230 J Do. potatoes, at L. 8, 15s. per Scots acre for 25 bolls, average per acre, at 7s. per boll, . . L,20i8 Ofwhichone-halfissold, . 1099 6 3 63 J Do. in turnips, on 1st quality of land, at L.6 per acre, feedins 2 oxen of 40 stone weight each, . L. 379 10 74J Do. do. on 2d quality of soil, requiring l\ acre for two oxen of 40 stone weight, at LA, 16 per ac. 356 8 5!)5 Do. do. on 3d quality, at L.4 per acre, at the rate of 14 acre for two such oxen, . 2220 387 Do. in pasture, (1st quality of soil,) at L. 2 per acre, one acre for every such ox, . . L.774 436 Do. do. (2d quality,) at L.1, 6s. 8d, per acre, 1^ acre for every such ox, 581 6 8 2038 Do. do. (3d quality,) at L.1 per acre, 2038 2955 18 3393 6 8 6488 Scotch Acres. Total value of grain, green crop, and pasture, Lbl8685 8 5 For fisheries, as above, add, . . 1567 Peat moss sold for fuel, say . 200 Pork sold, uncertain ; eggs, do.— but may be taken together, 300 Grand total value of produce, L. 20752 8 5 Note, — Dairy— fowls, sheep, lambs, &c. charged against grain and pasture aboTe.t Maniifactures. — Kelp was the only article manufactured in the parish, and this unfortunately is now at an end, in consequence of the free importation of barilla. There used to be about 30 per- sons, chiefly women, employed here for eight .weeks in the year, at Is. per diem each, and about 20 tons of kelp was annually made and sold. The rent of the kelp shore used formerly to average L. 50 per annum, and is now gone. Navigation, — Number of boats from St Combs employed in the herring fishery, 1 3 ; and perhaps as many smaller boats for ordinary white-fishing. V. — Parochial Economy. Market" Town. — The nearest market-town is Fraserburgh, four * Oats of 1st quality, 19s. adding 6d. additional for bear grown, of which the rati average price is 22s. per boll ; 2d quality of oats fiar prices. f This total value exceeds what is realised, as the writer finds, on more exteniive inquiry, something should be set down for xeasted And hal ; but the rent bein^as per common computation, one.third, L. 5500 X 3 = L> 16,500; (L. It^OOO may b« near the truth.) — Jan. 1840. LONMAY. 231 miles distant from the north-east boundary of the parish. Peter- head is about eight miles from the south-east boundary. Means of Communication, — One receiving-house for letters and newspapers, about one^quarter of a mile west of the western boun- dary of the parish, at Cortebrae. One turnpike-road from Peter- head to Banff, by Fraserburgh, traverses the parish for a mile and half; another from Fraserburgh to Aberdeen, by Mintlaw, ex- tends from north to south nearly six miles through the parish. One daily mail-coach runs from the south to Fraserburgh,, and one stage-coach from Peterhead to Banff, by Mintlaw, three times a week.* EcclesioMtical State. — The parish church is situated within two miles of the north-east boundary, and upwards of seven from the south end. From the south end much inconvenience, amounting in many cases to absolute hindrance from attending any place of worship, has long, too long, resulted from this arrangement. In March 1836, a petition was given in to the presbytery of Deer, and signed by 103 heads of families, which describes so graphically the spiritual wants of the people that it is here inserted : ^^ The petition of the householders in the southern district of the parish of Lonmay, comprehending the whole of Kinninmonth, part of Belfatten (in Crimonmogate), and of others residing on the bor- ders of the contiguous parishes of Strichen, Old Deer, Longside, and St Fergus, — Humbly sheweth. That your petitioners labour under the grievous disadvantage of want of opportunities of pub- lic worship^ and of adequate pastoral superintendence, by reason of the great distance which intervenes between their places of resi- dence and their parish churches, aggravated by the impractica- bility of accommodation in others less remote. Adhering to the Church of Scotland, your petitioners cannot but feel distressed that they are themselves so frequently, and the young, the aged^ and in6rm of their families, almost entirely, deprived of the means of attendance at the house of God ; and all of waiting on the mi- nistry of a pastor residing among them : That your petitioners inhabit a district not less than from six to eight square miles in ex- tent, so disadvantageously situated in the respects above shewn, that no less than 78 families, consisting of 416 souls, in Lonmay alone, and upwards of 60 other families, adhering to the Church of Scotland, are from four to seven miles distant from their re- spective parish churches. These families have, moreover, mauy * We have now also a stagercoach between Peterhead and Fraserburgli, which runs through the parish.— Jan. 1840. 232 ABERDEENSHIRE. of thein, no seats in any other church of the Establishment, others but one sitting, and a considerable number have even taken sit- tings in a place of worship, belonging to a body not only uncon- nected, but disagreeing, with the Church of Scotland ; having often no choice between this occasional departure from their own church, or absenting themselves wholly from a place of worship. That the number of Dissei^ters in this district from the Established Church is, at present, exceedingly small, but will undoubtedly increase de- plorably, unless an additional church shall be forthwith erected in connection with the Church of Scotland. That your petitioners have, therefore, joined together in subscription to contribute to the expense of erecting a suitable building, capable of containing from 350 to 400 persons." &c. &c By means of the aid afforded by the Church Extension Committee of the General Assembly, amounting to L. 150, and local contributions, Lf 250 and upwards, a church has been built ; the whole expense defrayed ; and a preacher located having a neat cottage hard by the church ; and the gratifying spectacle may now be seen of groupes of families every Lord's day, passing thickly to and from this additional house of God. In the ori- ginal parish church every vacant sitting is taken, a^d thisnew church is filled, illustrating in this part of the country the benefit of church extension. The present parish church was built on a new site in 1 787. The old church stood on the present burial-ground since 1 608^ previous to which the parish church was by the sea-side, hard by where the village of St Combs now stands. It appears to have been of small dimensions. The present church is in good repair. All the public buildings are annually inspected by competent tradesmen, and defects supplied, in consequence of standing reso- lutions of the heritors. The church was originally seated for 860. There are once every year 800 persons within its walls. Seats were allowed by the heritors to be fitted up in the centre of the area, at the expense of the kirk-session, by whom they are annually let for sums of from Is. to 4d. each, for behoof of the poor. A good many of the tenants are accommodated with seats free of rent Others, I understand, are charged by their landlord a small sum per seat, — a practice which ought to be discontinued, for obvious reasons. The present manse was built in the year 1824, and has already undergone some overhauling, and will soon probably require more^ as is common with cheap manses. The glebe consists of 13 acres, two of which have been reclaim* s LONMAY. 233 ed by the present incumbent from whinny moor-land. An ex- cambion took place in 1810 of the old glebe at St Combs, for some additional ground adjoining the present glebe. The stipend, by decreet of the Lords Commissioners, was modi6ed in 1814 to 13 chalders of victcml, half barley, half meal.* There is one additional church at Kinninmonth ; the preacher, Mr C. Cordiner, is resident there, and visits and catechises in his district. There is one Dissenting chapel, viz. an Episcopalian, the minister of which is paid by seat-rents, which make up a very small salary to him. There is no Popish chapel, and only one person of that communion in the parish. The two Established Churches are both well attended. The number of communicants has been yearly on the increase. The average for the last three years is about 780. Since Kinninmonth church was built the communicants exceed this number conside- rably. The number of families who belonged to the Established Church in 1837 was 336; of persons of all ages, 1621. In the parish attending the Dissenting Episcopal chapel, 33 families, and 154 persons ; of Seceders attending meeting-houses in other parishes, 5 families, and 23 persons. Total, 1 798. Education. — Total number of schools in the parish, 6 ; of pa- rochial schools, 3 ; of unendowed or private, 1 ; of dames' schools for girls, sewing, &c. 2. Branches of education taught are English reading, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping; also additional at the first parochial school Latin and mathematics and navigation, which last is also taught in the St Comb's school. Salaries of Schoolmasters^ — Of the 1st, or Lonmay estate school, L.28; of the 2d, or Kinninmonth school, L. 13, 6s. 7d. ; of the. 3d, or St Comb's school, L. 10: Total paid by heritors, L. 51, 6s. 7d. Amount of Fees. — Latin per quarter, 5s. ; mathematics and geography, 6s. ; arithmetic, 4s. ; English and writing, 3s. ; English reading alone, 2s. ; all paid at the end of the quarter, and the total amount per annum of said fees to each schoolmaster is re- ported by them to be : For first school, paid to the assistant (the schoolmaster being superannuated, and allowed to retire upon his salary) L. 21, I6s. (The heritors also subscribe L. 4 per annum to said assistant during the life of the schoolmaster. ) Second school, amount of fees, L 21, 4s. 9d. Third, St Combs, L. 16. Fourth, pri- * Now modified to 16^ chalders, lialf barley, half meal, with L. 10 for communion elements.— Jan. 1840. 234 ABERDEENSHIRE. vate school, said to be only L. 8. For the first school there is suffi- cient acommodation provided. The Kinninmonth school was built by general subscription, and the teacher rents a house and small piece of ground. The St Comb's school and schoolmaster's apartments were built by the proprietor, General Gordon, at his own expense. The ordinary expense of education is shown by the foregoing statement of fees, to be from 8s. per annum for children, to L. 1, 4s. per annum for scholars learning Latin and mathema- tics. There are only four or five persons between six'and ten years of age who have never been at school, and these will be educated at the public expense. There are some old persons who cannot read or write. As a proof how much alive the people are to the benefits of education, we shall state in addition, the num- ber of scholars now in attendance at the several schools in the pa- rish : — Learning English Book- Mstli. EngKsh. Writing, grammar. Latin. Aritb. keeping, and geo. Ist, or Lonmay, 16 24 4 2 19 2 12 2d, or Kinninmonth, 26 16 10 26 3d, or St Combi, S5 13 4^0 Total number at present at Lonmay school, 58 ; Kinninmonth, 68 ; St Combs, 52 ; parochial private school, 52 ; girls' schools, 23; dames' school, 14; scholars, belonging to Lonmay at other schools in different parishes, 8 ; scholars belonging to other pa- rishes attending schools in Lonmay, 27 ; total scholars belong- ing to Lonmay, 248, being upwards of one-eighth of the whole population. When the present incumbent came to his pastoral charge here about twenty-three years ago, there was but one school, attended on an average by 47 or 48 scholars yearly. The heritors in 1820 having complied with the supplication made to them, and additional means of education having been provided, the schools were no sooner opened than they were filled with scholars, and the private schools followed thereafter. Then was afforded the present happy result, well worthy of the observation of every well- wisher to the interests of Christianity and of general civilization, who has it in his power " to go and do likewise." Friendly Society. — There was a Friendly Society instituted at St Combs. Considerable trouble was taken in forming it ; but after the fishermen had almost all joined, and the infant institution was advancing prosperously, came the ill-judged legislative inter- ference proposed by Mr Kennedy, M. P., which upset this useful LONMAY. 235 scheme, along with a hundred others throughout Scotland ; and it is feared no persuasion will be available for their re-construction. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid for the last four years, 44 ; total funds, including collections at church, penalties, and interest of about L.250 lent out, and voluntary donations from heritors, L.66. — Charge upon the funds: session^clerk and ofScer, doctor's bill and coffins, say L. 10, 10s., leaving L.55 amongst 44 persons, L. i, ds. each. The munificent bequest of the late Mr Burnett of Aberdeen to the kirk-session of the several parishes in the county of Aber- deen for behoof of the poor, affords a payment to each parish once in about eight years. This has been employed by the kirk-session of Lonmay as a floating fund to meet exigencies. Very few applications are made personally for aid. Support is professedly not the system, and relief is afforded in as quiet and efficient a manner as possible, so as to go hand in hand, without interfering, with private charity. The field, however, we are sorry to observe, has for some years past been growing more ex- tensive, and difficulties are sensibly felt in dealing prudently with the evil. There is now introduced a very guarded observance of the law of settlement, which has occasioned a great watchfulness of the characters and regard to the circumstances of new comers, both on the part of the kirk-sessions and heritors. Fairs. — There are two held annually on the same ground, one in spring and the other in autumn, for cattle and sheep, and also for feeing farm-servants.* Inns^ Alehonsesj §'c.-t- Of petty public houses there are few. Yet these, and the licensed whisky shops, five or six in number, are to be considered an evil in the parish, and they are in general truly a curse to the country, affording temptations to intemperance, which are by no means withstood. Fuel, — Peat moss is used generally for fuel, brought from the estates of Crimonmogate and Kinninmonth. The tenantry on the other estates purchase it at a price which the proprietors have been, from time to time, advancing; so that, if along with the present high price of this article, its carriage also was to be estimated at its pro- * It is most desirable that order should be taken to remove by sunset the booths for the sale of spirits, &c. and that the constabulary force should clear these markeU at that time. 236 ABKUDfiENSllIttE. per cost, it would be found to be much dearer than (as it is certainly a much inferior fuel to) sea-borne coal. Miscellaneous Obsrrvations. The principal changes in the state of this parish since the last Statistical Account was published, consist, L In the great extent of agricultural improvements : Ist, On waste land reclaimed : 2(/, Wet land drained : Scf, In very extensive and substantial inclosures : 4thf In an improved system of cropping, of breeding stock, and ge- neral management : d/A, In additional plantations, which now begin highly to adorn the face, especially of the northern half of the pa- rish : 6^, In the increased value of the land, the total rental being nearly treble of what it was in 1796. II. In the provision made for the intellectual improvement of the people, which is vastly in- creased. IIL In the additional accommodation for the worship of God, by an additional church and preacher. IV. In the external comforts of the people, as to lodging, neatness of dress, and others which meet the eye. But then, on the other side of the picture, is to be noted, straitened circumstances of late years, and want of ca- pital. The tide of prosperity is at present ebbing, and credit is de- creasing as well as cash. Ther^ is a decreased currency, and low prices for produce, — but high rents, high charges for labour and implements, and a heavy charge for wear and tear on the farm accounts. Great industry and the greatest possible frugality are requisite to obtain the means of bare subsistence. Drawn up in 1835, Revised January 1840. PARISH OF NEWHILLS. PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES ALLAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The parish of Newbills, in former times, was a part of the then extensive and incommodious parish of Saint Machar, or Old Machar, whose church is situated in Old Aberdeen. The distance betwixt the church and the remote confines towards the west was so great, that it was hardly possible for the people resi- dent there to assemble at Saint Machar for worship, and for other religious purposes. This circumstance had excited, it appears, the notice and sympathy of a pious and humane individual, Mr George Davidson, of Pettens, a burgess of Aberdeen,— and who had amas* sed a considerable fortune, and risen entirely by his own industry. This man, having no family to provide for, and feeling that he could not better dispose of his property than i>y applying it ^' in better providing" (as he himself expressed it) for the spiritual wants of the people with whom he was connected, and in whose salvation he took a deep interest, — mortified for the endowment of a resident clergyman in this western part of Saint Machar the lands of ^^ Keppelhills," consisting of nearly 700 Scotch acres, which he had previously purchased from the town of Aberdeen. He also caused a church to be built upon these mortified lands, about five miles distant from Saint Machar ; and all at his own expense, in the year 1663. This property he disponed and made over to the officiating clergyman at the time, the Rev. George Melville, and to his suc- cessors in office in all time coming. The place of worship, there- fore, was originally a chapel of ease, and had continued to be so for about three years. This' benevolent individual also built a large stone bridge over the Buxburn, in the line of the old road to Aberdeen, for the ac- commodation of travellers in the lower end of the district ; and 238 ABERDElgNSHlItE. mortified the lands of Bogfairlie and the lands of Pettens in Bel- helvy, to Saint Nicholas Church in Aberdeen. Tlie death of Mr Davidson did not prevent the incorporation of the new church with the Established Church ; for in 1666 the persons interested in the concern, and authorized to act, applied to the Lords Commissioners for Planting Kirks for a disjunction of a certain district of Saint Machar around the church built by Mr Davidson, and its erection into a parish ; which application, having the consent of all parties, was successful, and the de- creet of the Lords Commissioners accordingly was obtained that year. Since that time the parish has continued separate and distinct, and possesses all the privileges and rights which belong to the other parishes of the Established Church of Scotland. Name, — It appeared to have been the desire of the applicants to give to this newly erected parish a name in some degree resem- bling the name of the mortified lands of ^^ Keppelhills," and hence it was denominated " Newhills." Extent. — The extent of the parish is very considerable. It is reckoned to contain about 30 square miles, being about 6 miles in length, and 5 in breadth. It is of an irregular form, and is bounded on the east by the river Don ; towards the south, by the parish of Peterculter and Nether Banchory ; towards the north, by the parish of Dyce and Kinellar; and towards the south-east, by Saint Machar, from which it was originally disjoined. II. — Civil History. Mansion Houses. — Some of the heritors have beautiful seats, particularly Mr Forbes of Springhill, and Mr Robertson of Hazel- head. The places of Sheddocksley, of Fairley, of Crailston, of Cloghill, of Gateside, of Waterton, and the Place of Newhills, (the seat and property of the minister, which has been very much improved by him,) are all of them much admired. III. — Population. There is a considerable part of this parish, especially westward, of a hilly nature, some of which is covered with wood, and part only with heath and stones ; but, notwithstanding of this, there is a great and increasing population. In the year 1775, the amount of the population was only 959, and in 1792 it was 1158; but at last census, it was found to be 2255. Since that time, it has much increased ; and this has been owing to the feuing of grounda, and the improvements which have been made along the three great NEWHILLS. 239 turnpike roads which pass through the parish, and which lead to the great and flourishing town of Aberdeen. In general, throughout the parish there are very comfortable dwellings ; and the people, upon the whole, with the exception of some casual residenters, are very quiet, well disposed, and indus- trious. The number of illegitimate births during the last three years is la IV. — Industry. Number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, 13,865 Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain con- stantly waste or in pasture, . 17C0 Number of acres that might, with a profitable application of capital, be ad- ded to the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land were afterwards to be kept in occasional tillage or in permanent pas- ture, . . . • 1160 Number of acres in a state of undivided common, . . 6(^0 Number of acres under wood, whether natural or planted, . 625 Soil^ Produce^ Manufactures, 8fc, — The lands of this parish are in general not of the best quality. The soil is commonly of a black colour, and of a light quality, and is placed upon a hard pan or retentive subsoil, which, in wet seasons, is very injurious to the growth of corn, and turnips, and grasses, the agricultural produce of the district. In some parts, however, there are fields of a very superior quality, and yielding most abundant crops. These princi- pally are the property of Lord and Lady James Hay, the value of whose lands is about five-sixths of that of the whole parish. Upon their grounds, there are immense quarries of blue granite stone, which are extensively wrought, and yield them an annual rent of about L. 250; in these, there are generally employed about 260 men. Stones from these quarries are prepared and sent to Aber- deen, London, and elsewhere. Manufactories. — There are also upon this property, which is bounded by the river Don, three paper manufactories. One of them at Waierton, belonging to Mr Pirie, has two large machines, which form,-dry, size, and press the paper, and all in one operation. The paper is generally a fine printing paper ; but sometimes also for writing.^ The number of persons generally employed is about 150. The machines throw off an immense quantity of paper, and they are wrought day and night. The other two manufactories have also each a machine. They work in the manufacture of wrap- ping-paper, and a considerable numberof handsare employed at each. 240 ABKRDEKNSIIIRE. Besides this, there is on the same property, a large manufactory of worsted, wherein there are about 67 persons employed. There are also a brewery of considerable extent, and two mills for the manufacture of snuff. There are no fewer than five meal-mills, and two flour-mills, some of which manufacture grain to a great extent, for the supply of Aberdeen and the adjoining country. On other properties in the parish there are three other meal-mills, two of which carry on a very extensive trade. It may be said, therefore, of Lord and Lady James Hay's property in the east end of the parish, that it is of a very superior value, and that there are few places where such numerous and extensive manufactories are carried on, within such a limited space. These manufactories and stone quarries give to this part of the parish a bustling and very interesting appearance. In this parish, there are very few of what may be called large farms. There are 35 heritors and feuars, and most of the feuars occupy their respective grounds. The principal occupation of the parishioners, apart from the quarries and manufactories, is the dairy. In consequence of the short distance from Aberdeen, and the large village of Woodside in the vicinity, they pay more attention to this than to the rearing of young cattle, and they turn it to very great account. Rent — The lands, in some cases, are pretty high rented, — some averaging L. 3 and upwards per Scotch acre ; but the com- mon rate of rent may be stated at from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2. In this parish, there is still a great extent of barren uncultivated ground ; but, of late years, a very great change has been effected. Improvements are going on ; and are encouraged by the nearness of the markets, and the plentiful supply of all kinds of manure. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State, — Tlie present church was built by the heri- tors of the parish in 1830, is centrically situate, large, and com- modious; superior to any country church in the county, and perhaps in the north ; and is capable, it is supposed, of holding all the pa- rishioners who are capable of assembling at one time. The minister's stipend arises from the rents of the mortified lands, which are let to tenants on leases of nineteen years endur- ance, but it is not nearly so large as might be expected, as a great part of the ground is barren, and not susceptible of improvement, and as the tenants, till the present incumbent's admission, were under no restrictions as to farming, and not obliged to make any BELHBLVIB. 241 improvements. Another reason is, that these mortified lands are alike liable, with the other lands in the parish, to all public burdens and assessments, and have to pay a certain feu-dn^ to the town of Aberdeen. It is thus difficult to state what may be the ave- rage amount of stipend, as it varies from year to year. The heritors pay the usual allowance for communion elements, and a trifle in name of stipend, as part of the unexhausted teinds. There are only a few Dissenters in the parish, and two small families of the Popish persuasion. Education. — There is one parochial school, to which is attach- ed a salary of L. 33, 7s. 6d. There is an excellent school-house, and superior accommodation for the scholars ; and all the branches of education are taught which are required in any country school. The teacher's fees may amount to L. 25 per annum. There are other two schools in the parish, built by subscription, but they are unendowed, and the teachers, having no salary, are de- pendent on the school fees. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 52; the average sum allotted to each per quarter, 10s.; the average annual amount of contributions for the poor is L. 104, — whereof L. 40 is from church collections, and L. 64 from alms or legacies. January 1840. PARISH OF BELHELVTE. PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. A. FORSYTH, LL.D. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of this parish is said -to signify in Gaelic the mouths of the rivulets ; and, accordingly, there are seven small rivulets that rise within the bounds of the parish. Extent, Boundaries^ — This parish is nearly a right-angled pa« rallelogram, 6 miles long, by 5 miles broad, and contains 30 square miles. The church is eight miles north from Aberdeen ; the south extremity four miles, and the north extremity ten miles from Aberdeen. « 'It is bounded on the south by the parish of Old Machar ; on ABERDEEN. Q 242 ABERDEENSHIRE. the west, by New Machar ; on the north, by Foveran ; and on die east, bv the German Ocean. Topographical Appearances.'-^TheTe are a number of small low hills in this parish that run in two ridges from south to north, the hills themselves and the ground between them gradually risinfir as they depart farther from the sea. The western boundary of the parish is one continued ridge of high land, about 800 feet above the level of' the sea. The whole of the sea coast is a beach of fine sand, bounded by sand-hills, covered with bent. Next to that is a narrow Ptripe of sand, covered with a sweet short grass, kept always for pasture. This stripe is so level that the engineers appointed by Oovemment to measure Scotland, selected it as thelevellest place they could find for measuring a base line of 5 miles and 100 feet. The south end of this line begins on the top of a small hill called Tarbathy, on the south boundary of the parish, and terminates on a rising ground at Leyton, on the estate of Menie, near a barrack, where a coast guard is at present stationed. Colonel Colby superintended the measurement of the line. Next to this stripe of sandy soil, there commences an alluvial deposit, consisting of water-worn stones of every variety of quality and size, partly covered with vegetable mould, moss, sand, and clay. Advancing farther from the sea, the soil becomes a deep rich clay mould, mixed in many places with peat moss. There is no rock or quarry within two miles of the sea, but beyond that distance there is a great quantity of rock, both in the small hills and the flats between them. Hydrography. — There is abundance of springs of excellent water in the parish. There are also a considerable number of strong chalybeate springs, and a few impregnated with sulphur and sul- phate or sulphuret of iron. None of these have as yet been ap- plied to any great extent to medical purposes. Geology and Mineralogy. — There is nothing deserving of notice in the geology or mineralogy of the parish of Belhelvie, except that there is a seam of trap, which makes its appearance about half a mile from the sea, at the south-east corner of the parish, add proceeds in nearly a straight lino for seven miles to the north-west corner ; after which, it takes a more westerly direction, and extends about thirty miles inland to a mountain, called top of Noth, where it divides into several branches. This seam of trap in Belhelvie is from one-half to three-quarters of a mile in breadth, and one of the small rivulets has cut its course along the middle of it. In 3 BELHeLVlB. 243 some placeRi small hills of trap rise to a considerable height, per- haps several hundred feet, above the level of the rivulet The trap contains in it all the variety of minerals usually found in similar seams. On the south-west side of the trap seam, the rocks and outlayers of stone are almost entirely of granite. On the north- east side almost no granite rocks, not even outlayers or water-rol- led pieces of granite, are to be found. They are all of the coarsest varieties of rock, scarcely 6t for any useful purpose, except for building dry stone dikes. There are no quarries or mines wrought, nor fossil organic remains or ores, in any noticeable quantity, found in the parish. The alluvial deposits are a rich clay loam and clay, mixed with rolled blocks of stones of all sizes, from the size of a walnut, to that which weighs several tons, gra- vel and fine sea or river sand. It is probable that in many places, especially in a line from north to south, about a mile from the sea, these alluvial deposits are very deep, for no rock or solid strata have been found even where pits have been sunk to a considerable depth. There is a great quantity of peat moss in the parish. Some of it near the coast is considerably under the level of the sea, and is covered to the depth of 10 or 12 feet by sea sand. It is probable that this moss extends a considerable length out to sea, and that there is a submarine forest somewhere in this bay at no great dis- tance. For on Christmas 1799, when there was perhaps the most dreadful tempest that any person remembered to have seen on this part of the coast, several cubical blocks of peat moss were cast by the sea upon the sandy beach, some of them contain- ing upwards of 1700 cubic feet Pieces of wood, like branches of oak trees, aj^rently converted to a consistence like moss, pas- sed through these blocks in every direction^ Both moss and wood were perforated by a number of Auger worms of a large size, and most of them were alive in their holes. The moss was of a much harder consistence than any found in this part of the country. Such large blocks could not have been carried to the sea by any of the neighbouring rivers, for they were not swelled at that time, but were all firmly bound up with ice. In general, when any thing like a tempest occurs at sea, a considerable quantity of peat moss of the same kind is cast upon this sandy beach ; but no person re- members to have seen it in so large masses as at Christmas 1799. IT. — Civil History. Land-atcners, — There are 15 land-owners in the parish : The rental of the principal land-owner is about L. 900, the least L. ^0. 24 i ABBRDKBNSHIRE. Parochial RegUters. — The parochial registers begin in WSa They are not voluminous, but appear to have been very regularly kept. Antiquities. — There were two or three of what are called Druid- ical circles on the moor lands of this parish, about thirty years ago. One of them was large and very entire. The moor is now cultivated, and not a vestige of any of them remains. On the same moor, a very destructive battle seems to have been fought; but when or by whom neither history nor tradition give any inform mation. A great number of barrows or tumuli commence about a quarter of a mile from the sea, near a small hill called Tarbathy, and, keeping nearly a mile in breadth, extend about twelve miles inland. In some places they were very numerous, especially where there were circular enclosures of stones, with a ditch outside, con- taining about a quarter of an acre or less ground. On the out- side, all around these enclosures, tumuli are very numerous. In the small tumuli nothing is found ; but those that are larger fre- quently contain coarse earthen urns, containing in them what ap- pears to be ashes and pieces of burnt bones. I have never heard of any pieces of armour being found in the tumuli or on the moor ground ; but on the alluvial soil near the sea there is a bed of yel- low flints, in which a number of very well formed arrow-heads are frequently found. The whole of this moor will soon be cultivated, and all traces of such a battle having been fought will then be lost Some gold ornaments, not very pure, and of very rude manufac* ture, but of considerable value, owing to the quantity of gold con- tained in them, have been found near this moor. There were four places of worship in this parish when the Ro- man Catholic religion was the established religion of this country. All remains of two of them are gone. The ruins of one, and the burial-ground around it, are yet to be seen, and the east wall of the present parochial church probably is part of the wall of a Roman Catholic church. When the foundation of one of these churches and burial-grounds, which have now disappeared, was cleared out, several small silver coins were found, but none of them of much value or great antiquity. III. — Population. In the first and middle part of last century, the populatioB seems to have been stationary or rather decreasing; but from 1791 to 1836, it has increased from 1318 to 1640, equal to 322 in for- ty-five years. This increase of the population was entirely owing to BGLHELVIE. 245 improvements in agriculture and agricultural industry, for the quantity of land in this parish at present under cultivation is fully one-third more than in 1791, and the whole is much better culti- vated. There are no towns or villages in this parish. The po- pulation is nearly equally dispersed over its whole surface, resid- ing upon their respective farms. No trade or manu&cture is car- ried on, except what is immediately connected with agriculture. Population, aU residing in the country, J 640 Number of births, average of seven years, 40 marriages, do. 11 deaths, do. . 31 Aversge number of persons under 15 years of age, 653 between 15 and 30, 431 30 and 50, . 331 50 and 70, . 132 upwards of 70, 93 1640 Number of families in 1831, - . - - 351 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 297 trade, manufactures, or handcraft, - 38 There are 2 blind persons, 1 insane, and 4 fatuous, in this pa- rish. The number of illegitimate births in the course of the last three years is 6. Character of the People, — The people may be said to be intel- lectual, sober, moral, and religious. There can hardly be said to be poaching of any kind practised among them, and smuggling, both foreign and domestic, is completely suppressed. IV. — Industry. AffricuUure. — Owing to the irregularity of the boundaries of this parish, it cannot be said to contain more than 19,000 standard acres. Of these 5000 are in ^waste land, sea- beach, peat-bog, and wood ; 14,000 are cultivated, of which 9000 have been under cultivation for a long time, and 5000 have been lately reclaimed from moor ground. There is also a small piece of undivided common in the north-^ west corner of the parish. Almost all the growing timber in this parish has b^en planted lately, and generally in hedge-i'ows, so that the number of acres cannot easily be ascertained, but they certainly are not many. The kinds of trees that thrive best are the ash, plane, elm, alder^ and willow. Rent of Land. — The rent of the old cultivated land averages L. 2 ; second quality, L. 1 ; lately improved from the moorland, from 10s. to 5s. Sterling. There are no permanent pastures ; but 24G ABEUDEENSUIRE. grass laid out for summer pasture lets at from L* 2, 10s. to L. 8 per standard acre. Live'Stach. — Very few sheep are kept m this parish, and they are mostly of the black-faced kind. A great many cattle are bred and fed in this parish for the London market They are princi- pally of the improved Aberdeenshire breed. Their bones are small, they carry a great deal of flesh, are easily fed, and are soon fit for the market. The farmers, in general, depend more upon raising grain than cattle. A great deal of waste land has been reclaimed of late, and much draining has been required, which has been executed successfully, and on good principles. Leases are generally for a term of nineteen years. The farmers' houses are now much improved, and comfortable. The fields in general are enclosed with dry stone dikes or sunk fences. All these improvements have been executed by the people generally, and not by a few individuals. The principal, if not the only bar to greater improvements is want of capital among the agricultural classes. Fishinff.'—SsAmon is the only kind of fishery, and it is carried on entirely by stake-nets. The success has been so various, that it is impossible to say how much rent is drawn annually for the six miles of sea coast occupied by a very great number of stake-nets ; but the rent must be very considerable. This parish contains about 19,000 acres^ 5000 of these are not yet cultivated ; 14,000 aru under cultivation, of which probably 4000, good or bad, are in grain crop ; 10,000 in turnip, potatoes,, hay, pasture grass, &c. The average produce of grain on the good and bad soils, perhaps, may be 3^ quarters per acre, or in whole 15,000 quarters. But though considerable pains have been bestowed to ascertain the quantity and value of the whole agricultural produce of the parish, the reports given by different persons are so various and so discordant, that it is thought best to say nothing on the subject. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — Two turnpike roads pass througii the parish, each about six miles long. On each, the mail is earned daily through the parish; but there is no post-office in thepftrish. Three public coaches pass and repass daily on these two ncNidl. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated on the east side of the parish, about one mile from the sea, and nearly in the BBLHBLVIB. 247 middle between its south and north extremities. About fifty years ago, its situation may have been the most convenient tor the largest proportion of the inhabitants, because the western side of the parish was little cultivated and thinly inhabited ; but at present, the eastern side is let in large farms, and thinly inhabited^ while the western is let in small farms, and eontains a great many inhabitants, so that a considerable number of the parisbi(Miers live at five miles distance from the church. The church is in good repair at present. The church contains 519 sitting-rooms, giving the legal measure to each ; but it is often or commonly packed to contain between 600 and 700. The seats were divided among the heritors by the Sheriff of Aberdeen in the year 1790, and ^he heritors have again divided them among their tenants, and some of the heritors receive from Is. to 2s. for each sitting-room. There are no free sitting-rooms ; and many say they would re- gularly attend at church if they bad a seat. The manse was built in 1768^ and is in a good state of repair at present. The glebe contains 5 acres of good land, which may be valued at Lh 3 per acre. The stipend is ,L. d3, lis. 2d. money ; 106 bolls of oatmeal, at 8 stones per boll, old weight, equal to nearly 10 stones per boll, imperial weight ; and 42^ quarters of bear. There is one chapel in the parish belonging to the United As- sociate Secession Church. The minister's stipend is paid by sub- scriptions and seat-rents, and amounts to L.70 annually. The whole number of Dissenters of every denomination in the parish is about 200 ; consequently, those who belong to the Established Church amount to 1400. The average number of communicants for several years past has been 550. The average amount of collections for behoof of the poor at the church has been L. 57 per annum. Education. — There are four schools in this parish. 1. The parochial school, where the teacher receives all the legal emolu- ments. The amount of his school fees may be L. 12, 10s. per annum : and he has L.25 a year from Dick's Trustees. His salary payable by the heritors is L. 27 per annum. The branches taught are, Greek, Latin, geography, mathematics, navigatioli, arith- metic, writing, reading, English. There is one school endowed with a few acres of land ; and two schools, the teachers of which depend entirely upon the school- fees. There are about 120 scholars attending these four schools. Very few persons between the age 248 ABERDEENSHIRE. of six and fifteen cannot read, and many of them can write. All above fifteen years of age can both read and write. Saving^ Bank. — There is one savings' bank in the parish, the stock belonging to which amounts to L. 600. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 30 ; of these few receive more than L.2, and few less than L. 1, 128. per annum. The annual contribu- tions at the church for the relief of the poor amount to L. 57 ; rent of land bequeathed for behoof of the poor, L. 18 ; interest of money bequeathed to the poor, L. 14 ; the whole, L. 84. Out of this sum are annually paid L. 15, for keeping a patient in the Lunatic Asylum in Aberdeen ; L. 4 to the Infirmary in Aber- deen ; also session-clerk and kirk officer's salaries, and occasional charity to persons not regularly on the poor^s roll. The poor in general are unwilling at first to be put upon the poor's rolL Fairs. — Three fairs are held in this parish, one in spring, one in summer, and one in autumn. They are almost exclusively for the sale of cattle, and many very excellent cattle are sold in them. Iniu and Alehouses. — There are seven inns or alehouses in this parish, all of them on the side of the turnpike roads, and used principally by travellers. They are not much frequented by the parishioners. Fuel. — There is a great quantity of peat moss in "the parish. It is principally used for fuel by the poorest class of the people; the more opulent burn coals, which they bring from Aberdeen or the sea-port at Newburgh. January 1840. PARISH OF FRASERBURGH. PRESBTTBRT OF DKEH, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JOHN GUMMING, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Situation.- — This parish is situated upon the east coast of Scot- land, in that part of Aberdeenshire called Buchan; and the town of Fraserburgh is eighteen miles to the west of Peterhead, and twenty-one miles by the old road, but twenty-six miles by the new one, eastward from Banff, the next town of any consequence upon the coast Name. — From records of an old date, it appears, that the name of this parish was originally Philorth ; this being the name of the estate of the patron and principal proprietor. A town and har- bour, however, having been built early in the sixteenth century, and the town erected into a burgh of regality in October 1613, it was called Fraserburgh, no doubt in honour of Sir Alexander Fraser of Philorth, who obtained the charter. Extentj 8fc. — The parish is at an average about 3^ miles broad, and nearly 8 miles long : the land gradually rising from the coast to its most distant and elevated district. Owing, however, to one of those irregularities, which were fallen into in the division of many parishes, the upper part is intersected for the space of nearly an English mile by the adjacent parish of Rathen. According to mea- surement, it contains a little more than 10,000 acres, and though the soil, like that of other parishes upon the coast, is in many places sandy and light, yet in others it is partly clay and loam. The rest is more gravelly, and interspersed with a few mosses and moors. It ex- tends along the coast about 4 miles, nearly two of which to the south of the town are low and sandy, bounded by hillocks, over- grown with bent. The rest is rocky and flat, except Kinnaird's head, a high land projecting into the sea, which is generally be- lieved to be the " Promontorium Taixalium" of Ptolemy, being the turning point into the " iEstuarium Varariae," or Murray Frith. From Kinnaird's head the land trends due west on the one hand. 250 ABERDEENSHIRE. and on the other makes a curve to the south-east, forming the bay of Fraserburgh. The sea has receded from the land in some places, and encroached on it in others. Westward of Kinnaird's head, is a stony beach, evidently thrown up by the sea. Many of the benty hillocks, which skirt the bay, stand upon moss or clay; and in 1760, a tree with roots and branches, and a stem twenty feet long, was found entire under the sand within the high water-mark. By a strong south-east wind, the sands on this shore, if dry, are drifted ; and, were they not intercepted by the bents, would overspread the adjacent fields. Bent, therefore, ought to be carefully preserved, especially that kind of it which grows in the hay here, resembling the river-bulrush in length of joint, thick- ness of reed, and largeness of leaf and top, and which is seeming- ly upon increase. It would appear that this parish at one time abounded with wood. Large roots of trees, mostly oak, still re- main in the mosses ; and about Philorth House, the seat of Lord Saltoun, is some old timber, to which several plantations have been added. But owing to the marine atmosphere, and the strong winds which sometimes blow here from the north and the east^ trees and hedges are reared with no small difficulty. The only Hill of any magnitude in this district is that of Mormond, covered with moss and heath, standing 810 feet above the level of the sea^ and is the more conspicuous, as the surrounding country is to a considerable extent low and champaign. In various parts of the parish are mineral springs of a chalybeate nature ; one of which is at the south-east corner of the town, which has been deemed useful as a tonic for weak stomachs, and over which a well has been erected for the more convenient use of thpse, who choose to avail themselves of it. From the upper end of the town a bed of lime- stone runs to the south, out of which a quarry has been dug, and stones obtained for building the houses of the town, and the piers of the harbour. There is also abundance of granite in the upper part of the parish, and ironstone of a good quality also abounds amongst the rocks on the coast, but which has been seldom wrou^ti owing to the scarcity of fuel. Great attention has been paid for many years to the improvement of roads in this district, and there are now excellent turnpike roads from this to Aberdeen, Peterhead, Banff, and Strichen. Being situated upon the coast, the atmosphere b here temperate, moist, and saline, and, with no mountain but that of Mormoiid to attract and break the clouds, there is less rain and snow tji^n jn FRASEUBUKOU. 251 the interior of the country, and snow, when it does falli soon dissolves. Hence it is, perhaps, that we are seldom visited with any epidemic distemper, and escaped the cholera, when it was prevailing elsewhere. Upon the south side of the parish flows the water of Philorth, which takes its rise in the upper district, and, increased in its course by a few tributary streams, discharges itself into the sea. The bay, to which we have already adverted, is the most interesting natural object at Fraserburgh. It is about three miles long, and attracts the notice of every stranger as he approaches the town from the south, and exhibits to him a beau- tiful and delightful scene in a fine summer day, when there is clear sunshine and a profound calm, and many vessels are there riding at anchor. IL — Civil Histoht. ^it/t^t/ie&-— There are in this parish the ruins of two chapels, one of which was probably a seminary of considerable repute, as it is called the College, at which some of the monks of the Abbey of Deer resided. Near this is a well, where the superstitious practice of leaving some trifle, after drinking of its waters, obtain- ed for a considerable time ; but which now seems to be given up. At the west end of the town is an old quadrangubr tower of three stories, which formed part.of a large building originally in- tended for a college by Sir Alexander Fraser of Philorth, who, in 1592, obtained a charter from the Crown, in which powers were given to erect and endow a college and university, — to appoint a rector, a principal, a sub-principal, and all the professors for teach- ing the different sciences they should think proper and necessary, — and to make laws for the preservation of good order, with autho* rity to enforce them. Every immunity and privilege of an univer- sity was granted for it, as appears from the following words of the charter: — '* In atnplissima forma, et modo debito, in omnibus respectibus, ut conceditur et datur cuicunque collegio et univer- sitati intra regnum nostrum erecto seu erigendo." In 1597, the Greneral Assembly recommended Mr Charles Frame, at that time minister here, to be principal ; but owing to some cause, which has not been sufficiently explained, most probably to the want of funds^ the matter here stopped, for nothing farther was done in it. On Kinnaird's Head another old tower remains, called the Wine Tower, most probably so called because it was the wine-cellar of those who at one time resided in the adjoining house, which is now the light-bouse. Under this tower is a cave, penetrating into the rock more than 100 feet. 252 ABERDEENSHIRE. Id this parish there are .also some ruios of Danish or PicUsh houses, as they are usually called. These are about 10 feet square, with a door aod hearthstone evidently marked with fire ; and which, though insignificant in themselves, serve to show that the inhabitants of this part of Aberdeenshire were at one time of Scandinavian origin. III.— Population. According to the census of 1791, the population amounted to 2215 ; of 181 1, to 2271 ; and of 1831, to 2964 : and by a census lately taken at the request of the General Assembly's Committee for Church Extension, it was found to be 3080 ; of whom there arc 700 under twelve years of age. It appears that the princi- pal increase was from 1811 to 1831, which is to be ascribed chief- ly to the herring-fishery, which began to be prosecuted upon an ex* tensive scale in 1815. The fishermen also marry at an early pe- riod of life. The number of marriages is, at an average, about 36, and of births, 60. But no register of the number of deaths has been hitherto kept, though the people have been called upon to avail themselves of it. . There is reason to believe, however, that these do not exceed 50. During the herring-fishery, which commences in July, and closes in September, there is an increase of the population, of no less than 1200, so that, owing to the acdvi- ty and bustle which then prevail, the town and the harbour have a very bustling appearance. And the herring-fishery having brought to the inhabitants an increase of wealth, it has produced amongst them a change both as to dress and diet, in which respect there is here little or no difierence from what is met with in much lai^r communities. The number of illegitimate children during the last three years is 37. IV.— Industry. Agriciitture. — There are here three landed proprietors, and the valued rentes L. 3000 Scotch. None of the proprietors are resident but Lord Saltoun, and he only for a few weeks in the year. He is not only patron, but the lai^est proprietor of the parish, his pro- portion of the valued rent being L. 2266, 13s. 4d. The real rent has fallen about six per cent, since the year 1815; and, had it not been for those improvements which have been made in agricul- ture by the tenantry, the diminution would have been still grea^> er. All the land b arable, with the exception of, about 80 acres of moss. The farms are in extent from 50 to 300 acres, and are let for 10s. to L. 3 Sterling per acre. Though not put up to pub- FRASBRBUBGH. 253 lie roup, they are always advertised for letting, — the former te- nant generally receiving a preference, when his offer is within ten per cent, of the highest ; and in unfavourable seasons Lord Sal- toun makes liberal deductions to his tenants. The soil here is well adapted to green crop, and produces all kinds of grain ; so that this parish not only supplies itself with all kinds of provisions, but annually exports a large quantity of barley, oats, and potatoes, of good qtiality. The distinction of infield and outfield has long ago ceased, and a regular rotation of cropping is now followed. For that purpose there is here abundance of manure. Besides an inexhaustible store of shell-sand, and a constant supply of sea« weed or ware, the farmers avail themselves of fish refiise for ma- nure, of which there is also a large quantity during the herring- fishery. Bone-manure is also successfully applied to dry soils. Wages. — The wages for male farm-servants are from L. 3 to L. 6 Sterling, and for female from Lhl, 5s. to L.2, 10s. in the half year. Live-stock. — The rearing of cattle for the market has always been a principal object of concern with the farmer; but, ow- ing to the admission of all kinds, the Buchan, or native breed, which is deservedly esteemed, has been considerably diminished. There are, nevertheless, many of good size and quality ; and some farmers have of late introduced the Teeswater, bv which it is ex- pected the breed will be improved. The price of cattle has risen of late, and a new market has been opened for them by exportation to London, which has hitherto brought a profitable return. There are no sheep-farms in the parish — a few only are reared upon ground of inferior quality. Though many of the fields are inclosed, yet it is much to be regretted, that the system of inclosure is not universally follow- ed out, and that the tenantry are still without sufficient accommo- dation as to dwelling-house and offices. When any alteration to the better in this respect is effected, it is generally by the tenant's laying out the money himself, with consent of the proprietor, who agrees to deduct it at the expiration of the lease ; or then still evades the expense, by requiring of the incoming tenant to repay it under the designation of "dead inventory ;" an expedient which is no less unfavourable to the interests of the proprietor than to those of the tenant. The Town and Civil History of the Parish. — The town is situated upon the south side of Kinnaird's Head, and is nearly of a square 254 ABEBDE ENSHIRE. figure ; most of the streets crossing each other at right angles ; the lower part of it adjacent to the harbour and the bay. A considerable number of new houses have been built within these few years ; and new openings are making, and new streets are laid off, according to a plan, which was resolved upon about twenty-five years ago. There are now 180 tenements, each of which contains from "20 to 22 falls. The price of each lot is from L. 80 to L. 83 Sterling, besides an annual feu-duty of 4d. per fall. The old tol- booth, town-house, and cross, were erected by Sir Alexander Eraser, the superior, and disponed to the feuars by the charter of erection. The cross is reckoned a fine structure. It is a hexa- gon with three equidistant angular abutments; the area of the base is 500 feet ; by nine intrenchings the top is contracted to 28 feet, on the middle of which is raised a stone pillar 12 feet high. The British arms, surmounting the armorial coat of^Fraser of Philorth, adorn the summit. The jail, though still remaining, is falling into ruins, and is of no use. Fraserburgh is one of the old burghs of regality, having its government vested in Lord Saltoun^ the superior, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and a coun- cil. His Lordship has the right and the authority of provost, with power to nominate and appoint yearly the new magistrates and council, with the advice and consent of the old. By the charter, the feuars and incorporated brethren of the guild have liberty to exercise all kinds of trade and merchandise. Those, who are not freemen, may be debarred this privilege ; but, for a long period, this exclu- sion has not been insisted on. The feuars are obliged to uphold the public works of the town ; but, for doing so, the market cus- toms were granted them ; and in lieu of some privileges which they possessed over commonable lands, they have obtained others from Lord Saltoun, which now rent at L. 58 Sterling per annum. These funds have been hitherto applied to repairing the streets, and opening new ones, but chiefly to bringing water into the town for domestic use, of which its inhabitants stood in great need, and of which there is now an ample supply. It is not improbable, how- ever, that this burgh will soon undergo such a change in its con- stitution, as has been lately effected in others. TTie Harbour and Trade. — As seamen were wont to seek for shelter to their vessels upon this coast at an early period, a harbour was built so long ago as at the beginning of the sixteenth century; being, however, upon a small scale, and not affording the requisite security, especially against storms from the north and the norUi- FRASERBURGH. 255 east, a northern pier, of about 300 yards in length, was begun to be built in 1807, and was completed in 1812. It was soon found, bowe?er, that the sea here, though repelled, found its way into the harbour in a way no less detrimental to the shipping, by a cir- cuitous run into it at the extreme point, which, passing along the interior, produced an agitation to the vessels, against which no mooring could afford proper security. There was, therefore, much dissatisfaction with it and complaint ; and in order to remedy that evil, and for enlarging and improving the harbour, an application was made for an act of Parliament, which was obtained in 1818. A south pier was accordingly built, of corresponding extent to the north one ; and since then, a middle pier has been erected, broader and even superior to the other two, within which vessels lie in perfect safety during the most violent storms. The expenditure upon the whole, since 1807, has been about L. 80,000 Sterling, and when the contemplated improvements are completed, it will be the best tide- harbour on the east coast of Scotland, between it and Burntisland, according to the report of an eminent engineer, Robert Steven- son, Esq. of Edinburgh. The area enclosed as a harbour is up- wards of six Scotch acres, nearly one-half of which has been exca- vated along the piers and jetties as birthing-places. The harbour is of easy access, having a depth of about six feet water at the piers' head at low water, and of twenty feet at high spring tides. Being situated at the immediate entrance to the Moray Frith, and at the northern extremity of a deep and extensive bay, which affords excellent anchorage for ships of every size, it is of great importance to the stripping interest in general. There are eight vessels from 45 to 155 tons burthen belonging to the port, and 220 boats engaged in the herring 6shery. The exportations for 1835 of grain, namely of wheat, barley, oats, pease and beans, were 12,000 quarters ; of potatoes 6000 bolls ; of fish, dried and pickled cod, to the value of L. 2000 Sterling, and of herrings about 16,000 barrels ; the herring-fishery giving employment to 1600 people. The articles imported are chiefly timber, coals, lime, tiles, brick, salt, and goods for shopkeepers, of whom there are 30 ; and, including innkeepers, there are 28 who have spirit licenses. The harbour dues were originally only L. 65 per annum, but they now amount to L. UOO Sterling per annum. Coals are now import- ed here at the rate of 4s. 4d. per imperial boll, from Newcastle and Sunderland ; but though this be a high price for them, they are considered to afford to those who reside in the town as cheap fuel 256 ABERDEENSHIRE. as peat, which costs about L. 5 Sterling per leat, induding all ex-^ penses. The manu&cture of kelp has becD so much affected by the prevailing use of barilla, that the shores here, which at one time let for L.150 Sterling, for that purpose, do not now bring abo?e L.15 Sterling per annum. Rope and sail-making are also carried on to a small extent. V. — Parochial Economt. Ecclesiastical State. — There are three clergymen ; the minister of the Established Church, that of the Scotch Episcopal Church, and that of the Independent congregation. Of the population there are belonging to the Establishment, 2703; and 377 who are Dissenters. The parish church, which stands about the middle of the town, near the cross, was rebuilt in 1802, and is a plain good structure, and capable of containing 1000 sitters. Part of the sit- tings are free, and the rest are all nearly let at from Is. to 48. per sitting. The church has a spire with a bell, which was built by sub- scription, and cost about L.300 Sterling. A new manse was built in 1818, upon a new site, at the south end of the town, upon a piece of rising ground, beside the road leading to Aberdeen and Peterhead. It is a good plain house, but not so lai^ as other manses which have been more recently built within the bounds of the presbytery. The stipend is 16 chalders of victual, one-half meal, and the other half barley, with L.10 Sterling for communion ele- ments. The glebe, including the site of the manse and garden adjoin- ing, is only a little more than four acres and a quarter in extent, and the greater part of it land of inferior quality. The attendance upon religious ordinances is considerable, and there are increasing symp- toms of religious improvement. One of the great evils with which religion has had to contend here, as elsewhere, is the excessive use of spirituous liquors ; and not until the labouring classes themselves come to see the folly and madness of expending their earnings in their use, will the evil be overcome. Various regulations have been laid down for restraining their use, particularly during the herring fishery ; but these have hitherto been only partially observed. Savings* Bank. — A savings' bank could not be established here until 1830; nor did the labouring classes seem to have at first that conBdence in its utility to which it was entitled. But it is now succeeding ; the amount of the deposits having been nearly doubled in the course of the present and the preceding year. Societies. — There are two societies for the diffusion of 4 FUASERBURGH. 257 ligious knowledge at home and abroad, and one of these has a pa- rochial library, containing such books only as are calculated to pro-- mote that great object. Education. — The parochial school is attended by about 100 children, and of these there are generally from 20 to 30 girls. The salary of the teacher is L.2d, 18s. lOd. Sterling. The amount of fees is about L.50 Sterling per annum, and as he has the bene- fit of Dick's bequest, and is session-clerk, his income altogether may amount to L. ISO Sterling per annum. The branches taught at the school are, the English, Latin, Greek, and French lan- guages ; writing, arithmetic, algebra, mathematics, geography, and navigation. The books used are. Wood's English Collection; Lennie's English Grammar; Simpson's History of England and Scotland; the Latin classics; Moore's Greek Grammar; Greek New Testament; Dalzel's Greca Minora; Porquet's Parisian Grammar; French Fables and Telemaque; Morrison's Book-keep- ing ; Bonnycastle's Algebra ; Davidson's Mathematics ; Hamilton's Arithmetic; Norris's Navigation; Scott's Beauties; M*Culloch's Progressive Exercises in Science and Literature ; and the Assem- bly's Catechism with Scripture Proofs. The interrogatory or in- tellectual system was adopted by the present schoolmaster, and continues to be prosecuted with much advantage to his pupils, and credit to himself. Besides the parochial school, there are nine others, all upon (he teachers' own adventure ; four of them by male, and five by female teachers. It is usual for parents to place their children when very young under female teachers, both to preserve them from'accidents, to which they might be ex- posed, by being allowed to roam in the streets without any one to look after them, and to prepare them by instruction in the ele- ments of education for afterwards going to the parochial, or other schools, where the higher branches are taught. By returns lately obtained, it appears that there are about 500 children throughout the parish receiving education at its schools. There are eight Sunday schools, attended by about 300 children. Poor arid Parochial Funds. — The number of the poor upon the roll is 80, who are relieved, according to the old system, by collec- tions at the door of the parish church, which amount to about L. 100 Sterling per annum; by the greater part of the dues for proclamation of banns; and by the interest of a fund of L.700 Ster- ling. The fund is made up of bequests from wealthy and gene- rous individuals, who belonged to th^ parish, or who had previous- ABERDEEN. U 258 ABERDEENSHIRE. ly resided in it for a considerable time. The annual amount dis- tributed has been generally about L. 150 Sterling ; but last year it was nearly L. 200 Sterling, and there is no appearance at pre* sent of its diminution. Miscellaneous Observations. From the foregoing sta;tement, it appears that the town and pa- rish 'of Fraserburgh have participated in the general improvement of the country since the publication of the former Statistical Ac- count ; that its population has had an increase of 865 souls, with a corresponding enlargement of the town ; that a newy capacious, secure, and excellent harbour has been erected, and the herring- fishery, and other branches of trade, have been carried on to a con-' siderable extent, and with much success; that a savings bank has been established, which is now prospering ; and that gr^t attention is paid to the proper education of the young. Various other im- provements are in contemplation, which, by the fiivour of Divine Providence, and the spirit of enterprise which now exbts, will, ere long, be accomplished. January 1840. PARISH OF ABERDOUR. PRESBtTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. GEORGE GARDINER, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish seems to be derived irom a small rivulet, which falls into the sea, a few hundred yards below the manse. The term Aber in Gaelic signifying a mouth or ipeii« ingy Aberdour may here have been applied to the mmtth or outlet of the Dour. The form of the parish is extremely irregular, extending from east to west along the sea coast about 7 miles, while its greatest length from north-east to south-west, including a vast extent of moss and moor, is not less than 10 or 11 miles. There are three fiums at the south-east extremity, completely cut off from the rest of the parish of Aberdour by that of Tyrie. Some suppose that these (Sums were originally grazings for the cattle belonging to the tenants upon the ABERDOUR. 259 vea coast ; but it is more probable that, at the time the parish was erected, they formed a separate estate, belonging to the then pro- prietor of Aberdour, who would naturally wish to have all his land— ed property in one parish* At the rate of 640 imperial acres to each, the whole extent of the parish contains about 24 square miles. Boundaries^ ^. — The parish is bounded on the north by the shores of the Moray Frith ; on the east^ by the parishes of Pitsligo, Tyrie, Fraserburgh, and Strichen ; on the south, by New Pitsli* go, (which forms part of the parish of Tyrie,) New Deer, and King- Edward ; and on the west, by the bum of Nethermill, which separates it from Gamrie, and which forms the bouAdar^ between the counties of Aberdeen ^nd Banff. Topographical Appearances. — There are, properly speaking, no high mountains in the parish, but the whole estate of Auchmedden, which forms the west side of it, is elevated 200 or 300 feet above the level of the sea ; while the estate of Aberdour, or eastern divi- sion, is comparatively flat and low, with little inequality of surface. The mosses, moors, and barren land bear a very great proportion to that which is under cultivation. The soil of the farms along the coast is, in many places, good, consisting of a strong loamy clay, and producing, when properly managed, excellent crops of grain. It may be proper to remark, that the estate of Auchmedden is intersected by several dens, or deep ravines, which have a roman* tic appearance, and afford a rich field for the botanist. There are various caves along the coast, having their entrance from the sea. The most remarkable is that called Cowsbaven, on the farm of Ironhill, at the north-east comer of the parish, and which served as a hiding-place to the late Lord Pitsligo after the battle of CuU loden. The interior of this dungeon is now of difficult access, the mouth being choked by the earth falling from above, or by sand and pebbles thrown up by the sea. In the centre of this ^)artment is a well, cut out of the solid rock, by the hands of the Noble Lord himself, during his confinement in this subterranean cavern. The mother of my informant, then a girl of sixteen years of age, procured him tools for this purpose, and supplied him with food and other necessaries of life ; but at last he was compelled to quit his prison-house, his dreary abode having been discovered by her footsteps in the snow. The whole of the sea coast is bold, picturesque, and rocky, particularly to the westward of the manse, about a mile from which, upon the estate of Auchmedden, is Pit- jossie^ a stupendous natural arch, through which the tide flows at 260 . ABERDEENSHIEE. high water, and which, when viewed from the top of the adjoining cliff, has a striking and awful appearance. This colossal arch is said by those who have seen both, to equal, if not surpass, the celebrated Butters ofBuchan. There are three bays or inlets of the sea, namely, Aberdour, Pennan, and Nethermill. The beach at Aberdour consists of a vast accumulation of stones, washed down the burn of Dour, and forced back by the raging of the sea in a storm ; and the beaches of Pennan and Nethermill are formed of similar materials, carried down by the burns of the same name. Meteorology, — There is no meteorological table kept in the parish, but the climate is mild, and the temperature of the atmosphere not very variable. There being no high mountains in the district of Buchan, it has been generally observed that less rain &lls along the coast, during the summer season, than in the interior of the country, where there are extensive ranges of hills to attract the clouds. There are no diseases peculiar to this parish, the district being uncommonly healthy, the people living to a great age. This is in a great measure to be attributed to the pure air which they always breathe, the atmosphere being constantly impregnated with saline particles from the spray, which is raised by the sea dashing against the precipitous rocks, which bound the coast, and also to the total absence of Doctors, Hydrography. — There are mineral springs in almost every cor- ner of the parish, but one more remarkable, and more frequented than the rest, called Mess John*s Welly issues from a rock, about 200 yards west of the burn of Aberdour. It is a strong chaly- beate, and famed for its medicinal qualities. A small basin, in the shape of a cup, for the reception of the water, which trickles down the rock, is said to have been cut by a John White, Laird of Ard- lawhill, at the time that Presbytery and Prelacy contended for the mastery. Neither of the parties, during the heat of the contest, had regular worship at the parish church, but John attended every Sunday, prayed, sung, and read a chapter from the precentor's desk, then prayed again, and concluded the service by singing another psalm. This he continued to do till Presbyterianism was fairly established, and hence he was designated Mess John by the people, and his well Mess John*s Well Upon the farm of Kin- beam, at the south-west extremity of the parish, there is a fresh water loch, called the Loch of Monwig, situated in the midsl of an extensive deep moss. It is 200 yards long and 22 broad^ the / ABERDOUR. 261 dark mossy water b^ing in some places o/ considerable d^ptb, and frequented at certain seasons by great flocks of geese and ducks. This is the only loch or lake of any description in the parish. There are no large rivers, and almost all the small streams or ri- vulets discharge themselves into the Moray Frith, which forms the northern boundary of the parish. In the Den of Dardar, near Pitjossie, there is a cascade, which sometimes in the winter season, and after a heavy flood of rain, has rather a grand and striking appearance. The water dashes from the top of a rock into three successive basins, and upon reaching the bottom, glides smoothly into the Moray Frith, at the distance of about 100 yards. Geology and Mineralogy. — The geology and mineralogy of this parish would afford materials for a small volume, and the task could only be undertaken by a scientific man, after visiting and minutely examining the localities. The rocks which bound the shore are highly interesting, of stupendous height, and various formation. A coarse sandstone prevails along the coast, often passing into conglomerate of various degrees of coarseness, and connected with a greywacke slate. This sandstone, I am inform- ed, is accounted at present of the oldest secondary formation, and is destitute of all traces of organic remains. This is the case also with the slate. The outlying, blocks of loose stone, or boulders, are primary trap or granite. A few years ago, in the neighbouring parish of Gamrie, there was an accidental developement of fossil JUh^ imbedded in rolled masses of clay or limestone ; and it is the opinion of an eminent geologist, who has favoured me with a communication upon the subject, that in- teresting facts might be brought to light, by searching the dens or deep ravines which run inward from the coast in this parish, and in which it is not improbable that something similar might be discovered. With these brief remarks we shall leave the sub- ject to those who are capable of doing it justice. Zoohtgy. — At one period, there was a pair of eagles that regu- larly nestled and brought forth their young in the rocks of Pen- nan, but, according to the tradition of the country, when the late Earl of Aberdeen purchased the estate from the Bairds, the for- mer proprietors, the eagles disappeared, in fulfilment of a pro- phecy by Thomas the Kymer, tliat there should be an eagle in the Cragsj while there was a Baird in Auchmedden, But the most re- markable circumstance, and what certainly appears incredible, is. 262 ABERDEENSHIRK. that when Lord Haddo, eldest son of the Earl of Aberdeen, mar-^ ried Miss Christian Baird of New Byth, the eagles returned to the rocks, and remained until the estate passed into the hands of the Honourable William Gordon, when they again fled, and have never since been seen in the country. These facts, manrellous as they may appear, are attested by a cloud of living witnesses. What is called the Aberdeenshire or Buchan breed is almost the only spe- cies of cattle reared in this district Some attempts have been made to introduce the short-horn or Teeswater breed, but to cat^ tie of this description neither farmers nor graziers appear to be at all partiaL The Moray Frith abounds with a vast variety offish of the best quality. Those taken by the fishermen of Pennan, according to their own statement, are the following : Haddocks, cod-fish, ling, tusk, skate, mackerel, whiting, cole-fish, turbot, halibut, sole, grey flounders, spotted flounders, herrings, dog*fish, cat-fish, horse- mackerel, hake, thomback, guard-fish, black brim, lump-fish, seo^ sow, gurnet. Blind Harry, miller's thumb, sharks, kettock, lobsters, crabs, conger-eels, &c. A few salmon are sometimes seen at the mouth of the fresh-water streams which run into the sea, but, owing to the scantiness of their number, and the rocky nature of the coast, there never has been, and in all probability never will be, any regular salmon-fishing. The produce would not defray the ex- pense. There are countless myriads of cockles, limpets, &c which the fishermen catch, not so much as an article of food, as for bait to then* hooks. For some years back, in the months of July, Ao* gust, and September, the herring-fishery has been prosecuted to great extent along the shores of the Moray Frith, to the im^ poverishment and demoralization of the fishers, and with but little advantage to the curers. The caterpillar, green fly, and that insect, whatever its namd may be, which causes the disease in fruit trees, called American blight, are the great scourges of the gardens, and the tory, or grub- worm, of the corn fields. Botany. — The dens of Auchmedden, the property of Sir Ch^es Forbes, Bart, are perhaps the richest field for botany in the united kingdom. Here, in the summer months. Flora pours forth all her treasures. Besides the plants common to almost every part of Aberdeenshire, here are to be found, within the compass of a mik or two, many of the rarest species. The following are a few spe- eimeus^ in the order of the sexual system laid down by LimMSUS t ABERDOUR. 263 Hippuris Tulgarit Epilobium roontanum Veronica Chanusdrys SazUVaga oppositifblia Iris Pseud-Aconis Silene inflate Eriophorum va^piiatum Oxalis Acetosella Alopecunis gemeulatua Agrimonia Eupatoria Sherardia arrenaia Chelidonium majus * Aspenila odorate Cistus heUanthemnm Plantago maritima Ranunculus hederaceua Corooopiti .„^..„.. bulbotus Potamogeton natens Stachvs palustris MyosoUs versicolor Bartsia Odontites Lithospermum maritimttm Sorophularia nodosa Anchusa sempenrifens Cakile maritima Symphytum tuberosum Cochlearia officinalis AnagaUis tenella Geranium Robertianum Viola palustris Fumaria capreolate Hydroootyle vulgaris Anthyllis vulneraria Daucus Carote Vicia sylratica Conium maculatum ErTum hirsutum Cluerophyllum temulentum Hypericum pulcbrum Pamassia palustris .>^.«.^„.,^^, humifiisum Drosera rotundifblia Tanacetum vulgare AUium ursinum Pyrethrum maridmum Hjracinthus non-scriptus Rhodiola rosea. Trientalxs Europasa 3coIopendrium vulgare This last is considered a very rare plant, and not to be found, so far as is known to the writer of this report, in any other station in Aberdeenshire. The above are a few species selected almost at random from the different classes, — for the variety in the dens is so great, that the bare enumeration of them would occupy more space than can be afforded in a statistical account- About fifty or sixty years ago, as I am informed, the medical men from the Infirmary at Aberdeen were in the practice of paying annual visits to the dens of Auchmedden, for the purpose of col- lecting plants for medicinal purposes, and their labours, no doubt^ were richly rewarded. At the commencement of the present century, there was not a tree to be seen in the parish, with the exception of a solitary moun- tain ash upon the glebe, below the old church ; but there is now a considerable plantation upon Sir Charles Forbes's property, in a tolerably thriving state, consisting of Scotch firs, larch, spruce, alders, ash, plane-tree, &c Throughout the greater part of Buchan, wood is of very difficult growth, the country being flat and bare, and destitute of shelter. IL— Civil History. There is no reason to believe that there is any ancieot or mo- dem history of the parish, either printed or in manuscript, extant, the former Statistical Account excepted. The parish has been * This plant I have never seen, but in the garden at the manse ; it is therefore doubtful whether it be indi^nous to the parish. 2G4 ABEUDEE NSIURi:. repeatedly surveyed, and there are plans of the separate estates in the possession of the respective proprietors. The estate of Aber- dour was surveyed about twenty years ago, when it was purchased by Mr Dingwall of Brucklay from Mr Gordon, the former pro- prietor; and Auchmedden was surveyed in 1810, and again in 1839. There are only two heritors in the parish, John DuflF Ding- wall, Esq. of Brucklay, proprietor of the, estate of Aberdour, com- prising three-fifths of the whole, and Sir Charles Forbes, Bart, of Auchmedden, proprietor of the two remaining fifths. Parochial Register, — The parochial register of this parish was supposed to be the oldest in the Church of Scotland, but, by some unaccountable accident, the most ancient part of it was lost about the year 1815, and what now remains commences at the year 1698. It is very regularly kept, but the baptismal register is very defective, owing to the extreme negligence of parents in getting their children's names inserted. It is hoped that thb evil will soon be remedied by legislative enactment. Antiquities, — At a place called Chapelden, in the land of Auch- medden, the ruins of a Roman Catholic chapel are still to be seen, on a haugh opposite the Toar of Troup. The walls are completely demolished, and nothing remains but a heap of stones, which have been held sacred by the husbandman; for although in the midst of a cultivated field, they have never been touched by the plough. The only fort, or castle, in the parish is that of Dundargue, for a par* ticular description of which, reference is made to- the former Sta- tistical Account. In addition to what is there stated, it may be proper to observe, that when Edward Baliol came to claim the kingdom of Scotland, Sir Thomas Beaumont accompanied him, and took and garrisoned the Castle of Dundargue in right of his wife, she being the eldest daughter of Cummine, Earl of Buchan, who had no male issue, and to whom the castle belonged. There are numerous cairns and tumuli scattered through the parish. Such as have been opened have been found to contain a rude stone coffin, enclosing the bones or ashes of a human body* A cairn on the farm of Towie, on the estate of Auchmedden, cal- led Brodie*s Cairn, deserves particular notice. My informant re- members three cairns of the same name, but with regard to this one in particular, the tradition is as follows : A farmer of the name of Brodie murdered his mother, whose body was brought to the gate of the church-yard of Aberdour, and every individual in the parish called upon to apply the hand to the naked corpse^ ABERDOUU. 265 under the superstitious belief that the blood would guah upon the murderer. It was observed, that during the time this was going on, her son carefully kept at a distance, and showed great reluc- tance to approach the body, and that, when recourse was about to be bad to compulsion, he confessed the murder. The tradition farther states, that the murderer was drawn and quartered, and that his four limbs were buried on the sides of four roads lead- ing to the church of Aberdour. So^ much for ancient supersti- tion. Modem- Buildings. — There are no modern buildings of any note in the parish, with the exception of the church and manse, of which afiterwards. The meal mill at Aberdour was lately new roofed and slated, and there was a mill of the same description lately erected at Nethermill, for the accommodation of the tenants on the estate of Auchmedden. They are built partly of granite, and partly of a sort of red rock or sandstone, which abounds in the parish, and which, when harled, is very durable. III. — Population. At a remote period, the parish must have been very thinly peopled, as is evident from the extensive tracts of waste and un- cultivated ground at the present day, notwithstanding the stimulus given to improvement by the high price of agricultural produce during the last war. Some hundred years ago, there is reason to believe, that the land upon the sea coast alone was cultivated, and that what may be called the back- settlements of the parish, was little better than a barren wilderness. The population has progressively increased since the commencement of the present century. This increase is partly to be. attributed to the erection of the village of New Aberdour, in the, year 1798, and which contains 300 inhabitants ; but arises chiefly from the annual num- ber of births exceeding the deaths by more than one-half. Last year (1834) the number of births was 44, of deaths, 20. Deduct- ing from the gross population in 1831 the inhabitants of New Aberdour, amounting to 302, and those in the fishing village of Pennan, which may be stated at 180, there remains 1066 as the sum total of the population residing in the country. There being no regular and complete register of births, deaths, and marriages, it is impossible to ascertain, with perfect accuracy, the annual average for the last seven years. The following is near the truth: births, 40; deaths, 18; marriages, 14. 266 ABBRDREN8HIRE. The number of pcnoos under 15 yean oi age if 6fi01 betwixt 15 and SO, 968 80 and 50, 848 50and70, 200^* upwards oi 70, 91 Total, 164^^ Thus it appears, that if the last census was accurately taken, which is very doubtful, there is an increase of nearly 100 since 183L The number of unmarried females abore 45 is men and bachelors above 50, widowers upwards of 50, widows, - • ■ The only person of independent fortune residing in the parish is William Gordon, Esq. the former proprietor of the estate of Aberdour, and who still occupies the family mansion and manor farm.f There are two proprietors of land of the yearly value of upwards of L.50, both non-resident. The average number of children in each family may be about 3. Character of the People. — The people, for the most part, are of the middle«size, muscular, and well-proportioned* There is no insane person in the parish, only two of rather weak intellect, two partially blind, and none deaf. The language spoken is the broad Buchan, or real Aberdeen- shire, and this dialect is much the same as it was forty years ago. There is nothing peculiar in the popular customs, games, and amusements which prevail in this district The habits of the people are sober and industrious, and, as far as their circumstances will admit, cleanly in the highest degree. In their style and manner of dress, there has been of late years a marked improvement. The principal food of the peasantry consists of bread made of oatmeal, pottage, brose, milk, and potatoes. Scotch kale or cabbage, which at one period constituted an essential part of the food of the lower orders, is not now in very general use. The people, notwith- standing the pressure of the times, are contented and happy, of a social and obliging disposition, shrewd and intelligent, re- gular in their attendance upon public worship, and the ordinaa- ces of religion, as well as in the performance of the dutms of life. Strangers to that fanaticism -which acts as a nurse to sedi^ tion, and that pharisaical hypocrisy which serves as a cloak to the * These numbers refer to the year 1895, since which time there may be a alight alteration. t Mr Gordon died in the end of last year, and his establishment is about to \m broken up.«-January 1840. ' ABERDOUR. 267 most heinous sins, their maxim is, ^< to fear God, honour the King, and not meddle with those that are given to change." There is little scope for poaching in the parish, as game is very strictly preserved, and the only persons accused of violating the game laws are the fishermen, almost all of whom are possessed of guns, ostensibly for the purpose of killing sea-fowl, for the sake of the oil and feathers, and who may, perhaps, occasionally take a shot at a hare or a partridge. Smuggling, at one period, was carried on here to a great extent; the almost inacessible rocks and caves on the shores of the Moray Frith affording peculiar facilities for this species of traffic Since the establishment of the Preventive Coast Guard, however, it has been completely suppressed, there being no such thing as an attempt ever made to land a single anker of brandy, a keg of gin, a box of tea, or a bale of tobacco. IV. — Industry. Tbe number of imperial acres cultivated is ... . 5673 which never have been cultivated is . . 9105 that might be cultivated perhaps with profit, 2000 No undivided common. Number of acres under wood, all planted, .... 87 occupied by houses and roads, . . . . 101 The wood generally planted consists of Scotch fir, spruce, larch, alder, ash, elm, plane-tree, and mountain-ash. In the hol- lows and sheltered situations, it is in a very thriving state, but upon the high grounds, where it is more exposed to the sea blast, the plants are extremely stunted, and making little or no progress. It is much to be regretted that due attention is not paid to thinning, pmning, and filling up the vacant spaces with fresh plants. It is only by patient perseverance, and supplying the deficiencies as they occur, that wood can ever be raised in a country so bare and exposed, as is the greater part of Buchan. The average rate of grazing for an ox or cow may be stated at L. 2, and for a full- grown sheep per annum at 15s. RaU of Wages. — Servants are almost universally engaged for six months, and the rate of wages for a first-rate man servant is about L.6 ; for a second rate servant, L.5 ; and for a third rate, Li 3. The wages of the women vary from L. 1 to L.d, according to their qualifications. Artisans are chiefly paid by the piece. Masons, when employed by the day, receive about 2s. ; and carpen- ters much the same, without victuals. Smiths are always paid by the piece. HuAandry. — There is nothing very peculiar in the style of hus- bandry pursued in this parish. The best land in it yields a yearly 268 ABERDEENSHIRE. rent of from L. 1, 10s. to L.2, 10s., and the inferior qualities from 10s. to L. 1. The average may be considered about L. 1 Sterling. Leases. — The leases in this parish, and, indeed, throughout the whole of Aberdeenshire, are generally granted for a term of nine- teen years. A lease for a shorter period would certainly be very much against the interest of both landlord and tenant, as it would operate as a bar to improvement, and, consequently, to any increase in the value of the land. The only inclosures in the parish are upon the manor farm of Aberdour, Coburty, Ironhill, and Powburn, there being a great deficiency of stones for building dikes, and little encouragement given for inclosing. The steadings upon the principal farms are tolerably good,- for the most part covered with thatch or tiles, and but few of them slated. So long as farm produce afforded a* re- munerating price to the agriculturist, the spirit of improvement, which was so conspicuous during the war, was kept alive, and a great deal of waste land brought into cultivation, but unless the rents are greatly reduced, now that the agricultural capital is in a great measure exhausted, land of inferior quality, of which there is a great proportion in this parish, must be allowed to go to heather. Between twenty and thirty years ago, the late Mr Dingwall of Brucklay purchased the estate of Aberdour, containing three- fifths of the parish, and found every thing connected with agricul- ture and rural economy in a most backward state. There were scarcely any roads, bridges, or fences, and the arable land was in many places intermixed with, or surrounded by, bogs, mosses, and moors. Any drains that had been cut were very ineflScient, in consequence of there being no open ditches, or leading drains to receive the water. The fields were laid out in a very irregular manner, and no proper rotation of cropping was observed. Mr Dingwall's first object was to open up the communication by re- pairing such lines of road as were capable of repair, and mak- ing new roads where wanted, and this indeed was everywhere. Bridges also were built where necessary, and open ditches and water-courses executed at his expense. The general aspect of the whole property has undergone a change greater, perhaps, than any one in the district. But the value of this estate has been chiefly enhanced by a new line of road of upwards of seven miles^ which runs through the whole property, from one end to the other, planned and executed in the most judicious manner. The ma- nagement 6i this estate has shewn, in the most convincing maoiier^ ABEBDOUR. 269 that the interests of laDdlord and tenant are the same, and that the only way of promoting the former is to cherish and give encourage- ment to the latter. The neighbouring estate of Auchmedden, the property of one of the most honourable and kind-hearted landlords in existence, affords a striking contrast to this. The obstacles to improvement arise chiefly from the low price of agricultural produce, the want of capital, the high rents, the trifling allowance given for building, inclosing, and draining, and with regard to the estate of Auchmedden, in particular, the non- residence of the proprietor, and the consequent gross neglect and mismanagement of the estate. Quarries. — Besides several quarries of granite and sandstone, there are two millstone quarries in the parish ; one upon the estate of Aberdour, called the Quarry of Coburty, which is not now wrought, and one in the rocks of Pennan, the stones taken from which are said to be the best in Britain. Formerly twelve able-bodied men were employed in cutting the millstones from the rock, the base of which is washed at high- water by the sea, but of late it has greatly decayed, in consequence of the high price put upon the stones. At one period the Pennan stones were sent to the south and west of Scotland, the demand being universal, but now there are only four or five men employed, who can scarcely earn a livelihood, as a single cargo, shipped to Aberdeen, may be said to be the whole annual produce of the quarry, although the rock is inexhaustible. L.6 Sterling is now charged for a stone 14 inches thick, nearly double the former price. The rent of the quarry is L. 50. Fishery. — There is a white-fishing at the sea-town of Pennan, on the estate of Auclimedden, consisting of six boats, with a com- plement of four men each, employed in taking the several species of fish already enumerated. Five long-boats have for some years gone to the herring-fishery at Macduff, Banff, and other stations upon the .Moray Frith, there being no harbour at Pennan, and no proper accommodation for curing herring. The six white-fishing boats pay a rent of L. 20 Sterling to the proprietor, besides some dried fish annually. « Produce. — The average gross amount of the raw produce of the parbh) so far as the same can be ascertained, is as follows : — IdO acres potatoes, . . L.780 029 turnips, . . 200 bear and barley, with fodder, 2317 oats, with fodder, dOO hay, 2217 pasture, 6 1258 900 7963 2 6 600 1881 8 —L. 13,382 10 270 ABERDEENSHIRE. The produce of the quarrj may be itated at L. 180 Of the lea-fishlng. . 860 The ffroM rental of the pariih is— Aberdour, 2700 Auchmedden, 1745 Total, L.4835 The sizes of the (aSnns are, 2 of 200 acres ; 4 of ISO do. ; 8 of 1 00 da ; 12 of 60 do. ; the remainder varying from 5 to 40 acres. Husbandry. — The rotation generally followed in the parish is the seven-shift course : — 1. fallow and turnip ; 2. barley or oats ; d. grass, partly cut for hay, and partly for green food ; 4 pasture ; 5. do. ; 6. oats ; 7. oats. In two or three instances the following ro- tation is adopted: I. fallow and green crop; 2. oats and barley; 3. grass ; 4. pasture ; 5. oats ; 6. oats. Both of these rotations are, in the opinion of some practical farmers, liable to objections, particularly the latter. In the village lands of New Aberdour, the four-shift course is sometimes followed, but the glebe is the only land in the parish farmed upon the favourite five-shift course. Manufactures. — There is scarcely any manufacture in the parish that deserves the name. The making of kelp from sea^weed, which was formerly carried on along the whole breadth of the shore, from east to west, is now almost entirely abandoned, — ^the price of kelp, in consequence of taking off the duty from Spanish barilla, having fallen so much, that it would not yield a fair remu- neration for cutting, drying, and burning the ware, to say nothing of rent for the shores. This manufacture, previous to the repeal of the foresaid duty, afforded employment, during the spring and summer months, to about twenty iifdividuals, who are now reduced to the necessity of betaking themselves to other occupations, for which they are ill qualified, and find great difficulty in gaining a livelihood. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town^ 4*c — There is, properly speaking, no market- town in the parish ; the nearest is Fraserburgh, distant 8 miles. New Aberdour, the feuing of which commenced about forty years ago, and the sea-town of Pennan, are the only villages in the parish. Means of Comnmmication. — The only means of communication enjoyed by the inhabitants is a post-runner, who goes for letters and newspapers three times a-week to Fraserburgh, to which there is a daily mail-coach from Aberdeen. He receives a penny for each letter carried to and from the office, and also an allowance for parcels. The turnpike road from Fraserburgh to Banff touches the parish of Aberdour at two points, namely, Bridgend, at the ABERDOUR. 271 eastern extremity, and Cowbog at the western, but would be of little advantage to the parishioners, were it not for the great junc- tion road made by Mr Dingwall, already mentioned, and which 18 equal to any turnpike. Eccksiastical State. — The parish church stands at the northern extremity of the village of New Aberdour, fronting the High Street, and is very conveniently situated for the greater part of the population. There are several farms in the moors, at a con- riderable distance from the church, some of them not less than six or seven miles, but the families upon these farms attend other places of worship that are less distant, and to which they will soon, in all probability, be annexed qttoad sacra. The church was erected in 1818^ and is in good repair. It was built to contain 800, but will, if well packed, accommodate 1000. The sittings are all free. The manse was built in 1822, after a lengthened litigation with the principal heritor, who maintained, inter alia^ that, by the Act 1663» a minister was entitled to no more than L. 1000 Scots, or Lb 83^ 6s. 8d. Sterling, for building a manse, offices, and garden walk. The House of Peers, however, were of a different opinion, and affinned the decision of the Court of Session, ordaining the beritofs to build a competent manse and offices, the expense not exceeding L.1000 Sterling, exclusive of the old materials. The benefit of this decision, however advantageous to the church at large, was in a great measure lost to the present incumbent, in con- sequence of the Procurator and Agent for the Church, (over whom the minister had no control, as the cause had been taken up by the church, to be conducted at their expense,) having sanctioned a plan, which was executed for about L.600, and allowed the clergy- man, after eight years' delay, and a triumphant victory, to put his band into his own pocket, and furnish himself with about one-third of the accommodation which was absolutely necessary for his com- fort. The glebe, including grass ground, and the site of the houses, is between 7 and 8 acres, and may be considered worth about 1m 2 per acre. The stipend is 15 chalders of fictual, half meal, half barley, paid according to the fiars, with L. 8^ 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There are no chapels of ease, Grovern- ment churches, missionaries, catechists, Dissenting or Seceding chapeky Episcopalian chapels, or Catholic chapels within the pa- rish. There are a few individuals, scattered through the ptirish beloDgiog to other persuasions, but, with the exception of one wea- 272 ABERDEENSHIRE. ver and his household, almost every family in the parish attends the Established Church. The only sectarians are about half-a- dozen of Seceders, two Scotch Episcopalians, and one Roman Catholic In short, the population may be said to be wholly Pres- byterian. Divine service at the Established Church is well attend- ed, and the average number of communicants is about 600. The probable average amount of church collections for religious and charitable puri)oses is about L. 39 per annum. Education. — In addition to the parochial school, there is a school on the lands of Auchmedden, chiefly for the accommodation of the children of the fishermen in the sea-town of Pennan. The teacher receives from the church-session the sum of L. 2, Is. 8d. Sterling, out of the interest of money mortified for that purpose, by a Lady Jane Hay, a daughter of the Earl of Kinnoul, of which mortiflca- tion the church-session are constituted trustees. There are seve- ral other elementary schools in the parish, some of them taught by unmarried females, and which are very useful for preparing children for the parish school ; but none of these schools are en- dowed, and the teachers depend solely upon the trifling fees paid by the scholars. Reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, na- vigation, English grammar, and Latin are taught at the parochial school, and also at the school of Auchmedden. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 32 Sterling, and the fees may amount to L. 15 yearly. He has, besides, an excellent house and garden. The fees per month are» reading and writing. Is. ; arithmetic, Is. 4d. ; reading only, lOd. ; Latin, Is. 6d. ; book-keeping, L. 1 for a whole set. All betwixt six and fifteen years of age can read, and a considerable proportion can also write. All above fifteen years of age can read, and the greater part can also write. The people in general are very much alive to the benefits of education, and send their children regularly to school. There are several fami- lies at the distance of five or six miles from the parochial school, but their children attend schools in the adjoining parishes, which they can do without much inconvenience. It would be of much advantage if the school of Auchmedden were regularly endowed* and an adequate salary provided for the teacher, as the children of the fishermen depend upon it alone for education. For the pre- sent salary, (L. 2, Is. 8d.), together with an annual gratuity of L. 5 Sterling from Sir Charles Forbes, no person, duly qualified* can be found to teach. Friendly Society. — There is one Friendly Society in the parish, 3 ABERDOUR. 273 instituted on the 15th August 1815, for aflfording reh'ef to aged and indigent members, and also for the benefit of the widows and children of the deceased. The number of members is 75. The money is invested in a chartered bank, in terms of the act of Par- liament, and amounted in 1835 to L. 279, 12s. 7^d. There is no savings bank in the parish. The nearest is in the parish of Strichen, about seven miles from New Aberdour. It was established about six years ago, and is said to be in a flourish- ing condition. As yet, the transactions with this bank consist chief- ly of investments of money by farm-servants, of both sexes, and also by crofters and tradesmen. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid is 36, and the average annual allowance to each is L. 1, 4s. ; the contributions for the relief of the poor arising from church collections, L. 39, 14s. 6d. ; donations, L. 5 ; interest of money, L. 6, 4s. 9d. ; penalties, L. 3, 10s. ; average an- nual amount of poor's money, L. 54, 9s. 3d. The poor scarcely ever apply for parochial aid until compelled by dire necessity, ma- nifesting a laudable spirit of independence, and a desire to sup- port themselves by the fruits of their own industry. jFatrf.—- There are 4 annual fairs lately established at the village of New Aberdour, for cattle, merchandise, and engaging servants, but they are not well attended, as the place where, they are held is within a mile of the margin of the sea. Two of them are held at the two terms of Whitsunday and Martinlnas, one in the middle of April, and another in the middle of August. There is also a fair, called Byth market, held twice a-year, in the months of May and October, upon a moor in the southern division of the parish, where a few cattle are bought and sold. Inns and Alehouses. — There are 5 licensed ale and spirit*houses in the parish, three in the village of Aberdour, and two in Pennan, and there is also a gin-shop or two, of inferior note, in the more remote comers. Fuel — The fuel chiefly used is peat, of which there is an inex- haustiBle quantity in the parish. The expense varies according to the distance ; but it costs at an average, before it can be laid down on the stack-hill, about 2s. per cart load. Considering the ex- pense of cutting, spreading, setting, and driving, it is very doubt- ful whether the people would not be gainers by using coal in- stead of peat ABBRDSBN. S 274 abeudlenshire. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Account was written, many altera- tions, and some decided improvements, have taken place in the state of the parish ; but, with the'exception of the erection of the village of New Aberdour, the principal part of these improvements have been made within the last fifteen years, and in that portion of the parish comprehending the estate of Aberdour, the property of Mr Duff Dingwall of Brucklay. Upon the estate of Auchmed- den, the want 6f internal communication has been severely felt, and until roads are made, it is to be feared that little can be done by the tenantry in the way of improving that property. Drawn up 1835, Revised January 1840. PARISH OF KING-EDWARD. PRESBYTERY OF TURRIFF, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. WILLIAM FINDLAY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — Though the name of this parish has long been writ- ten King- Edward, yet, by the people in this part of the country, it is often pronounced Kinedart. The name is supposed to be deriv- ed from two Gaelic words, which signify the head of the valley; and the situation of the ruins of the castle of King- Edward, which stands near the western extremity of the narrow valley in which the church is situated, may give some countenance to this deri- vation. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish extends in length from west to east about 1 1 miles ; its breadth varies from about 2 to 5 ; and it contains about 28 square miles. It is bounded on the south, by the parish of Turriff; on the west, by Alvah ; on the north-west, by Banff; on the north, by Gamrie ; on the east, by Aberdour and New Deer ; and on the south-east, by Montquhit- ter. The river Doveran separates it from Banff and Alvah; but ft part of the latter parish, about a mile in breadth, which lies on the east bank of the Doveran, and which meets the parish of Gamrie, completely cuts off the north end of this parish from the KING-EDWAKD. 275 rest. The farthest extremity of this disjoined part, which com- prehends the. estate of Montcoffer, lies within half a mile of the town of Banff, and is about four miles and a half from the parish church. The distance of the manse from Aberdeen, the county town, is forty miles. Topographical Appearances and Climate. — This parish is of an oblong, irregular figure. It is diversified with high and low grounds, though there is no hill of any eminence w^ithin it. The temperature in the western part is rather milder than in the eastern. In the eastern quarter, however, the climate has of late been much improved by extensive draining. Snow seldom lies long on the banks of the Doveran, or in the valley in which the church is situated. The eastern part abounds in mosses, which considerably affect the temperature, — inconsequence of which the different kinds of crops are rather later in coming to maturity than in the western. The north-west wind is the coldest which blows here ; the east wind is generally accompanied with rain, which is pretty frequently predicted by clouds thickening in the west. The climate, as has been stated, varies a .little in the opposite ends of the parish, but, upon the whole, it may be said to be healthy, as instances of longevity are not rare. The late minis- ter, Dr Duff, held the living for sixty years. An old woman on the estate of Eden died in 1833, at the age of 108 ; and her eldest son, who at the time of his mother's death was aged 88, died last winter at the age of 93. An old woman also died here last win- ter, who was supposed to have reached 100. Consumption and rheumatism are the diseases to which the inhabitants are most liable. Hydrography. — The parish is intersected by a considerable number of rivulets. The river Doveran, which flows into the sea at Banff, runs along the western boundary of it for several miles. There is a fine large stream, named the Burn of King- Edward, which runs from east to west along the valley of King-Edward, and joins the Doveran about a mile to the west of the church. The source of one of thie branches of it is near the church of Gamrie, within a mile and a half of the sea, and about eight miles and a half from its junction with the Doveran. The point of junc- tion is about five miles from the mouth of the river. The parish is,'upon the whole, well supplied with excellent springs. Geology and Mineralogy. — In so extensive a parish, as may be supposed, there is a great variety in the nature of the soil. In 276 ABERDEENSHIRE. many places, it consists of a black loam upon a gravelly or rocky subsoil ; in others, it is of a clayey nature. On the low grounds on the banks of the Doveran, it is principally alluvial, and very rich. On the higher grounds, in the eastern quarter, it is gene- rally mossy, superincumbent upon a gravelly or clayey subsoil. Li some places it is very fertile, in others the returns are poor. There are extensive mosses on the estates of Fisherie and Byth, from which the inhabitants are supplied with peats aqd turf for fiiel. There is nothing very remarkable in the mineral productions. Greywacke and clay-slate are found in the western quarter, and red sandstone in the eastern. It is believed, also, that a quan- tity of iron ore exists in the parish. Botany, — Among the botanical productions of this parish may be mentioned the following : — Adoxa moflchatellina, under beech trees Geranium robertianum, frequent. near bridge of Alvah, rare. Geum rivale, not pommon, but cannot Agrimonia Eupatoria, occasionally a- be considered rare. mong rocks east of Doveran, below Goodyera repcni, occasionally in woods. bridge of Alvab. Hedera Helix. Alcheniilla alpina, washed down from Helianthemum vulgare^ rare. the upland^ and growing at Craigs Hyacintbus non-scriptus, occasionally. of Alvah, rare. Linnasa borealis, woods of Montoufier AHsroa Plantago, occasionally in the Do- and Craigston. veran. Listera cordata, not irequent. Anemone nemorosa. Saxifraga aizoides, near bridge of Al- Angelica syWestris, frequent. Tab, rare. Chrysosplenium altemifolium, near Mill Scrophularia nodosa. of Eden, rare. Solidago Virgaurea. Epilobium tetragonum, bridge of Castle- Symphytum tuberosum. ton, not common. Trientalis Europaea. Genista Anglica, frequent. Valeriana officinalis. Geranium pratense, ft-equent Vinca minor. sylvaticum, do. 11. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Among the eminent characters who have been connected with this parish, may be mentioned Dr William Guild, who was minister here in the early part of the seventeenth cen- tury, for about twenty-two years. He was afterwards one of the ministers of Aberdeen, and Principal of King's College. He pub- lished several theological works, and seems to have been a mao of very considerable learning, as well as of much benevolence of mind* He endowed an hospital in Aberdeen, now enjoying an ample revenue, for the incorporated trades of that city, and this pa- rish receives yearly L. 6, 10s. from the treasurer of Aberdeen, being the interest of a mortiBcation made by his widow, Catharine Holland, for the benefit of the poor. Sir Thomas Urquhart, the author of the *^ Jewel," who was con- KL\G-EDWARD. 277 nected with the family of Craigston, if he did not reside in this pa- rish, seems to have taken an interest in it, for the inscription on the massive silver communion cups shews that they were a joint present from Dr Guild, Sir Thomas Urquhart, and John Urqu- hart of Craigfintrie, the former name of Craigston. Sir Whitelaw Ainslie, M. D., the author of" Materia Indica" and other works, for a considerable number of years before his death, used to spend the summer months in this parish. His remains are interred within the church. Land'oumers. — The heritors of the parish are, the Earl of Fife, William Urquhart, Esq. of Craigston ; James Grant Duff, Esq. of Eden ; Beauchamp Colclough Urquhart, Esq. of Meldrum, who is proprietor of Byth, in this parish ; Mrs Duff Mackay of Bal- maud ; and James Taylor, Esq. of Mill of Balmaud. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest parochial regis- ter is 1704, when the first Presbyterian minister was settled. The register was kept with considerable attention for some years, but for a very long period there were no entries in it. The register of baptisms commences in 1728, and the register of marriages in 1784. Antiquities. — The ruins of the castle of King- Edward stand on a rocky eminence, on the east side of the Turriff and Banff turnpike, about a mile and a quarter south-east of the church. The castle belonged originally to the Cumines, Earls of Buchan. The castle of Eden has also been long in ruins. Craigston Castle, the residence of William Urquhart, Esq. of Craigston, was built about the beginning of the seventeenth century, by John Ur- quhart, commonly called Tutor of Cromarty. It is a fine old build- ing, and the grounds about it are much embellished. Byth House is also an old building, but has been much enlarged and improved by the present proprietor. The grounds about it are tastefully laid out, and ornamented with thriving wood. • The church seems to have been built during the incumbency of Dr Guild. His initials are engraved on a stone above the west door. From the date 1 62 1 , on an arched gateway leading into the church-yard, of the same style with the church, it would^ ap- pear that the church had been erected about the same time. Within, and on the north wall, near the east end of the church, is a monument with the following inscription : " Joannes Urqu- hart^ hoe in honorem Dei^ et matris suae Beatricis Innesy damina a Cromertie memoriam erexit opus^ anno 1599. The inscription is in relief on a tablet of freestone, within a semicircular arch, around 278 ABfcUDEENSIlIUt:. the exterior rim of which is a border of Scottish thistles, executed with much neatness. The arch rests on a base of freestone, under which there are five panels neatly cut, also of the same material. In Craigston's aisle, which is connected with the church, are like- wise monuments to the above John Urquhart, Tutor of Cromarty, and to other members of the family. Modem Buildinffs. — Montcoffer House belongs to the Earl of Fife. It is close to his Lordship's Duff House Park, a part of which lies in this parish. It is beautifully situated, and the pros- pect from it is very fine. Eden House, the residence of James Grant Duff, Esq. is also a modem building. It stands on a rising- ground, on the east bank of the Doveran, and commands a fine view both up and down the river. III. — Population. Id 1755, the population was I>S52 1783, . . 1572 1793, . 1577 1821, . . 1822 1831, . . 1966 Number of families, ... 445 males, .... 944 females, - . . 1022 males upwards of 20 years of age, . 500 The number of males employed in agriculture, . . . 357 manufactures, . . 19 retail trade and handicraft, 75 retired tradesmen, ... 26 Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, . . .42 The population of late has been considerably increased by the Earl of Fife letting waste lands on the estate of Fisherie in small portions to new settlers. In 1835, it was 2160. The village of Newbyth, near the eastern extremity of the parish contains 302 inhabitants. All the proprietors possess lands of greater yearly value than L.50. The resident heritors are, Mr Urquhart of Craigston ; Mr Grant Duff of Eden* ; Mr Urquhart of Byth (occasionally) ; and Mr Taylor of Mill of Balmaud. At present, there are 3 fatuous persons in the parish, 1 blind^ and 2 deaf and dumb. The two deaf and dumb individuals are both shoemakers, carrying on business on their own account. The younger of the two, about twenty-two years of age, was educated at the Deaf and Dumb Institution in Aberdeen ; writes a good • Formerly political resident at Satara, and author of the History of the Mah* raitas. KING-EDWARD. 279 band ; and is well acquainted with the prihciples of the Christian religion. Habits oftht People. — The inhabitants of this parish may be characterized as decent and orderly in their conduct ; and regular in their attendance at church, where they appear dressed in a very respectable and becoming manner. IV. — Industry. Land in a state oi cultivation, Scots acres, 7951 Waste or pasture land, . . 2860 Improveable with profit, ... . 443 In wood, .... . 1364 In moss, • . . . 1982 Total number of acres, . . 14000 Average rent of land per acre, about 15s. ; rental of the pa- rish about L. 5770 ; valued rent, L. 4098, 6s. 8d. Scots. Some of the land lets at about L.2, 10s. an acre. Plantations. — The Scotch firs, which form the principal part of the plantations, here, have all been planted. We have, besides, the ash, the beech, the larch, the spruce fir, the oak, the plane, and the chestnut. Rate of Wages. — Ploughmen from L. 5 to L. 7 in the half-year; maid-servants from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, 10s. — all including lodging and maintenance. A mason has 16s. a-week in summer without board ; a wright from 8s. to 9s. a-week with board ; a tailor. Is. a- day with board. The average rate of keeping a cow may be about L. 3 in sum- mer, and L. 2 in winter ; and a sheep may be kept all the year for about 7s. LivC'Stock. — The Aberdeenshire or Buchan breed of cattle ge« nerally prevails here, though of late years the Teeswater or short- homed cattle have been introduced into the parish. Many, how- ever, entertain a great prejudice against the latter. They require to be kept in a very superior manner, and the quality of the food is reckoned inferior to that of the Aberdeenshire breed. ^^ Mr Grant Duff of Eden, however, who began to introduce the im- proved short-horned cattle from Yorkshire about five years ago, and has since continued at intervals to import animals of the highest pedigree, inclines to the same opinion as Captain Barclay of Ury, in Kincardineshire, who asserts, as the result of his longer experience, that these cattle are more easily maintained than the Aberdeenshire breed. Mr Grant Duff has no hesitation in saying that, as far as he has tried them, they are sooner brought to ma- 280 ABERDEENSHIRE. turity, have a greater aptitude to fatten, are much better milkers, and that such as are bred in this country are remarkably healthy, and as hardy as the. ordinary cattle of the district ; but that no ac- curate judgment can be formed of the short horns, unless greater attention be paid to the purity of the blood, and care be taken to cross only with superior males." The sheep are generally of the Highland and Leicester breeds. *^ Some of a superior quality are kept on the estate of Eden. They are strong hardy sheep, and chiefly a cross between the Leicester- shire and Ojtswold, from Gloucestershire." Husbandry. — The rotation of cropping observed, is generally the following: 1. turnips; 2. oats or barley laid down with grass seeds ; 3. grass for hay ; 4. grass for pasture ; 5. grass for pasture; 6. oats ; and 7. oats. One of the heritors, howcTer, requires his tenants to follow a five course shift, allowing only one grain crop after the land has lain in grass for two years. This mode of crop- ping is thought to be less encouraging to the growth of weeds than the former. There is very little wheat sown in the parish. The tenants here have introduced many of the late improve- ments in agriculture. They are every year bringing into cultiva- tion waste land, and in many cases their improvements have amply repaid them. On the estate of Eden, within the last twelve years, all the unproductive land has been either reclaimed or planted ; belts and clumps of trees have also been planted both for ornament and shelter ; an extensive moss has been drained and brought into cultivation, by which the climate in the neighbourhood has been much improved, the property has been divided into compact farms, and laid off in properly proportioned fields, most of which have already been enclosed with stone fences and hedges. " The sum laid out in improvements already greatly exceeds the value of the property at the time of their commencement, and it is to be hoped that the yearly value has also been more than doubled. Draining has been carried on annually to a great extent, and the frequent drain system had suggested itself to the proprietor, and been prac- tised by him before he was aware of the experiments of Mr &nith of Deanstoun. Mr Grant Duff's furrow drains are from 80 to 36 inches deep, varying in width from 10 to 18 inches, generally built with an eye or conduit in the bottom, and filled with small stones to within 15 or 16 inches of the top. His large drains for carrying off springs in bogs and mosses, are from 5 to 7 feet deep, filled with stones to within 2^ or 2 feet from the surface. He KING-EDWABD. 281 uses no tiles, and gives the preference to stone drains, none of which have even been choked, or gone materially wrong." •• Trench ploughing was also introduced into this neighbourhood upwards of twelve years ago, by a proprietor in a neighbouring pa- rish, Mr Leslie of Dunlugas, and was immediately adopted by Mr Grant DuflF, who has trench-ploughed about 700 acres of his estate, and, in every instance, when the land has been sufficiently drained, the deep ploughing has been very successful. Even on a gravelly soil, appareutly of depth not admitting of an ordinary furrow, and apparently most unfit for such an experin^ent, this system has been pursued, and attended with results highly satisfactory." ** The subsoil plough, although not uncommon in the neigh- bourhood, has not yet been adopted in this parish, although there is much soil which might be greatly ameliorated by its introduc- tion. Oxen, yoked three abreast, with two powerful horses in front, make an efficient strength for a trench plough in the stiffest soil, and will generally plough half an acre to the depth of 14 inches in five or six hours." Enclosures are also going on in the property of the Earl of Fife. We have stone fences and hedges from Danshillock, skirting the turnpike all the way to Banff, a distance of five miles, which, with the exception of those on the estate of Eden, were executed by his Lordship about three years ago. The farms are generally held under leases of nineteen years. Quarries. — There are quarries of grey wacke occasionally wrought in the western quarter of the parish, and in the eastern quarter there are quarries of red sandstone. Fisheries, — The principal salmon-fishing on the Doveran be- longs to the Earl of Fife. His Lordship is proprietor of both sides of the river, and the rent derived from it is L.1600. It might be difficult to say what proportion of it might fall to this parish. There is also a salmon-fishing on the estate of Eden, and another on the property of Craigston. The former, which is now in the hands of the proprietor, used to let for L. 20 a-year, and the latter may be worth about L. 5. V. — Parochial Economy. The only village is Newbyth, which is situated in the eastern quarter of the parish, about nine miles from the church. It stands on a gentle eminence, and consists of two streets nearly at right angles to one another. It was begun to be feued in 1764. The land surrounding it, particularly towards the south and east, is of very 282 ABERDEENSHIRE. good quality. Many of the inhabitants have small lots of land. There are in it several shopkeepers, and two inn& There is also a distillery. A chapel in connection with the EstablishmeDt was erected here, about forty-seven years ago. Mr Urquhart of Mel- drum, who is proprietor also of Byth, is superior. The number of inhabitants is 302. Marhet'Toions. — Banff and Macduff are the nearest market- towns, the former distant five, and the latter four miles and a-half, from the parish church. Means of Communicqtion. — The mail-gig from Aberdeen to Banff passes and repasses every day along tho'turnpike road, about half a-mile to the east of the manse. The Earl of Fife coach from Aberdeen to Banff also passes and repasses daily. The nearest post-office is in Banff. We have also several carriers weekly to Aberdeen. There is a penny post-office in the village of Newbyth, in connection with Turriff. The turnpike road from Aberdeen to Banff is carried about three miles and a*-half along the western quarter of the parish, and the Banff and Buchao turnpike runs about five miles and a-half along the north-eastern quarter. The bridges connected with the roads are kept in good repair. In Lord Fife's park, connected with Duff House, there is a very singular bridge of one arch over the Doveran, called the bridge of Alvah. The scenery on both banks of the river here is very much admired. Part of the park is in this parish. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is a very inconvenient old building. It stands about a mile from the western boundary of the parish. From the irregular figure of the parish, it might be diffi- cult to point out a situation for a new one that might be most con- venient for the parishioners ; but the inconvenience of the present situation is now greatly remedied, by the erection of a chapel, seated for about 400 persons, in connection with the Establishment, in the village of Newbyth, about nine miles from the parish church, and about two from the east end of the parish. This chapel also accommodates portions of the parishes of Aberdour and New Deer. The church affords accommodation for 550 persons. The tenants pay no rent for their seats. Their is a gallery in the church be- longing to the kirk-session, the seats in which are let for sixpence each, to those who are not otherwise accommodated.' The manse was built in 1767, and was repaired in IS33. The offices were built in 1829, and are both ample and convenient. The glebe consists of about 12 acres arable, and of about 2 of Datiird. KING-LDVVAUD. 283 pasture. The garden, manse, and offices may occupy about one acre. One part of the glebe, of about 5 acres, called Bogburrie, was mortified in 1617, to Dr Guild and his successors in office, by Arthur Lord Forbes, who had at that time lands in this parish ; and in 1626, another part of it called the Kirkhill, was mortified by Patrick Meldrum of Eden, to the same worthy individual and bis successors. The yearly value of the glebe may be about L.15. The stipend is 16 chalders, one-half meal and one-half barley, payable by the fiars prices of the county, and L.10 for communion elements. The Crown is patron. The minister of the chapel at Newbyth, the Rev. Gilbert Brown, receives L. 40 a year from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and a like sum from seat-rents and collec- tions. His hearers supply him with peats for fuel. He has also a good manse and a glebe of about 9 acres. The managers of the chapel, by the liberality of Mr Urquhart of Meldrum, who is pro- prietor of Byth in this parish, hold the glebe at a very low rent. About six miles east of the church is an Independent chapel, seated for 200, the minister of which is, I believe, paid from seat- rents, collections, &c. In 1835, when the census of the parish was taken for the Royal Commissioners, the whole number of souls in the parish connected with this body was 127. There is also a house in the village of Newbyth in which the Catholic ser- vice is occasionally performed. The bishop resides at Priestholm, in the parish of Rathven. Persons belonging to the Established Church, 1863; Episcopa- lians,81; Independents, 127; persons belonging to Associate Synod, 19 ; persons not known to belong^o any Christian community, 50 ; Ronoan Catholics, 15; Baptists, 5. — Total 2160. Divine service at the parish church and also at the chapel at Newbyth is well attended. The number of communicants at both about 880, being 470 at the church, and 410 at the chapel. There are two extraordinary collections at the church yearly, one for the Infirmary of Aberdeen, which averages about L. 2, and the other for the General Assembly's India Mission, which may average from L. 3 to L. 4. The average amount of collections for the poor at the parish church is about L. 38 a-year. The collections at the chapel of Newbyth go principally to the general pui-poses of the chapel. Education. — Besides the parish school, there are other two schools ii^theparish,—^ne in the village of Newbyth, and the other a Fish- 284 ABERDEENSHIRE. erie. The branches taught at all the three are nearly tKe same, viz. English reading, English grammar, arithmetic, geography, Latin, practical mathematics, and book-keeping. The salary of the pa- rish schoolmaster is L.d4, 4s. 4id., with a house and garden. He has also the benefit of the Dick bequest The salary of the teacher at Newbyth is about L.6, paid by the heritors ; and that of the teacher at Fisherie, about L.5, arising from subscriptions. Each of them has a house and garden. The fees at the parish school may average about L. 10. Besides the above, there is a school lately erected at the northern extremity of the parish of Turriff, supported by subscription, and a small sum from one of the heritors, which accommodates a considerable number of young people belonging to this parish. All these seminaries are regu- larly visited. The means of instruction are now within the reach of all the young people in the parish. There are also two Sabbath schools here, one under the super- intendence of the minister of the parish, and the other under that of the minister of the chapel at Newbyth, both of which are pretty well attended. Library. — In the village of Newbyth there is a library lately instituted, which is supported by subscription. Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established here about three years ago. The deposits already amount to about L.10dO; To the class in life of which the depositors consist, an institution of this kind must be productive of much good. Its effects here have already been of the most beneficial description, for many have now saved a little who would otherwise have had nothing. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of poor at present on the roll is 32. During the last year, thirteen others received oc- casional supplies. The income of the session, arising from coU lections at the church, fines, donations, interest of L. 210 at two per cent, and the yearly amount of the mortification (L.6^ 10s.) formerly mentioned, amounted last year to L. 73, 3s. 2d., while the expenditure was L.78, 10s. 2d. The demands on the kirk- session have increased of late years ; and it is much to.be regret- ted that that spirit of independence which formerly prevailed is now on the wane. Fairs, — There are three fairs held yearly at Newbyth. Inns. — There are five inns within the parish. Fuel. — The fuel principally used consists of peats. The ex- pense of cutting, drying, and carrying them home is very conside- AUCHTERLESS. 285 Table to the inhabitants of the western district of the parish, who are at a distance from the mosses ; in consequence of which, many of them also use coals, which are procured at Banff or Macduff. Miscellaneous Observations. Smce the publication of the former Statistical Account in 1793, a great improvement has taken place in the system of hus- bandry. Agriculture is well understood, and the tenants are in general ready to adopt every improvement. Bone- manure is now extensively used in the raising of turnips ; and lime is also judi- ciously applied. The land here is likewise much benefited by manure and herring refuse, which are brought from Banff and Macduff. The houses of the tenants have also undergone a great improvement within the last forty years. Many of them are now slated, and in other respects are both convenient and comfortable. The Turriff and Banff, and the Banff and Buchan, turnpike- roads have been productive of much benefit to this parish. The roads in the interior have also been made much better of late years ; and the great improvements which have been carried on have been the means of giving steadj^ employment to the labour- ing classes, whose comfort has thereby been much promoted. January 1840. PARISH OF AUCHTERLESS. PRESBYTERY OF TURRIFF, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. GEORGE DINGWALL, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish is derived from a Gaelic word, signifying a cultivated field on the side of a hill. The locality of the parish and the nature of the soil seem to favour this interpretation. JSxterUf ^c. — The parish extends about 8 miles in length, and nearly 4 in breadth, and is of an irregular oblong figure. It is bounded on the north by Inverkeithny ; on the east, by Turriff; on the south, by Fyvie and Rayne ; and on the west, by Culsa* mond and Forgue. The temperature is generally mild, particularly in the interior of the parish. 286 ABERDKENSinilE. Hydrography. — The Ythan is the only stream of consequence in the parish. It takes its rise from two springs in the upper dis- trict of Forgue, about a mile from the boundary of Aucbterless. It flows through the vale in a north-easterly direction, and dis* charges its waters into the German Ocean below Ellon. Geology, — A formation of clay-stone slate runs through the whole of this parish, nearly from north-east to south-west, and through the neighbouring parish of Turriff, till it reaches the sea at Mel- rose, in Gamrie. The rock lies too deep to be worked for slate quarries, but it is available for this purpose in the neighbouring parish of Culsamond. It was formerly worked both in Turriff and Inverkeithny, but is now abandoned for the superior quality of slates in the hills of Foudland. The soil is of a gravelly description, based on a clay-slate. It is almost uniformly dry, and varies in depth from three to twenty- four inches, averaging about seven inches. II. — Civil History. Landowners. — Mr Duff of Hatton and Mr Leslie of Badenscoth are the chief land- owners. Parochial Registers. — The registers of marriages and baptisms commence in 1680, and have been regularly kept ever since, with some trifling exceptions. Antiquities. — The most remarkable remnant of antiquity con- nected with this parish is a camp on the farms of Buss and Logie- Newton, commonly supposed to have been of Roman origin. A great part of what was formerly included within the walls is now improved. The south and west dikes only are entire. Near the remains of this camp, and upon the causeway leading westerly through Forgue, an urn was ploughed up, containing black ashes, and decayed animal matter. This relic of antiquity is now in the l)ossession of Sir Tliomas Dick Lauder, Bart. On a farm in the neighbourhood were found a great many heads of darts, commonly called elf-shots, that had been used in war before the introduction of metal in the forging of flre-arms. In the immediate vicinity of the church, there is a small artifi- cial eminence, of an oval shape, surrounded by a ditch, which is now in many places very much filled up. It still retains the name of the Moat-head, and was formerly the seat of the baronial court The gallow-hill, where the criminals were executed and buried^ is in its neighbourhood, and confirms the general opinion of the ori- ginal purpose to which the moat-head was applied. 3 AUCHTERLESS. 287 There is a well at the distance of fully a mile east from the church, supposed to have been dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Within the recollection of some of the oldest inhabitants, money, and other articles, were deposited on Pash Sunday by those whose superstitious feelings led them to frequent the well, in expectation of some beneBt to be derived from drinking the water dedicated to the Holy Virgin. Close by this fountain are the remains of a place of worship, to which had been attached a buryin^-ground, where several families of distinction were interred. The old chapel had been used, as is thought, for a bead-house during the times of Popery. The remains of Druidical circles are pretty numerous in diffe- rent parts of the parish. By far the most remarkable of these is situated on a considerable eminence on the farm of Logie- New- ton, overhanging the Roman camp, and called the Kirk-hill, pro- bably from this cause. Three concentric circles may be distinctly traced; the stones are very large, and of a white colour. A trench of several hundred yards length, terminating about half a mile from the camp in a north-west direction, called Cumine's trench, is still distinctly to be marked, the ditch being in many places four feet deep. This was probably one of the stations of the Cumines be- fore their defeat at Strathbogie, where Adam o' Gordon, who led Robert the Bruce's troops, obtained a decisive victory, and laid the foundation of the future greatness of the Noble family of Gordon. On the front of the old castle of Towie Barclay, the property attached to which is chiefly in this parish, we find this inscription neatly cut in stone : " Sir Valter Barclay foundit the Tollie Mills 1210." This corroborates the common opinion, that corn-mills turned by water were introduced into Scotland by the Saxon fol- lowers of Malcolm towards the end of the eleventh centurv. For, had corn-mills previously existed in the country, this would not have been thought an achievement worthy of recording. And as the ancestor of the family (John Berkely, son of Lord Berkely of Gloucestershire,) was one of the followers of Queen Margaret, and obtained a grant of this estate for his son Alexander about 1100, this goes far to establish the fact, that they had been intro- duced by the Saxons. About the thirteenth part of the grain over S^tland and England was considered a fair multure or re- muneration for grinding the corn with machinery. This shows that the labour of doing it with the quern or hand-mill formerly 288 ABERDEENSHIRE. used must have been very great. Immediately above the door of the old castle of Towie Barclay is the following inscription : " Sir Alexander Barclay, foundator, decessit, 1 136." The estate remained in his family till it was sold by the Honourable Charles Maitland, brother to the Earl of Lauderdale, who married the last heiress in 1752. From this family was descended William Barclay, an eminent civilian at the court of Lorrain, and the still more celebrated John Barclay, from whom the late gallant Rus- sian General, Field Marshal PrinceBarclay de Tolly, was lineally descended. Modern Buildinffs.^^There are few modern buildings of any consequence in the parish. The church was built in 1780 — is in good repair, and contains 650 sittings. A handsome school-room was erected by the heritors in 1829. One of the proprietors built an elegant mansion a few years ago. The two principal heritors are non-resident, and have excellent modern houses on their other properties in Turifif and Fyvie. Many of the farmers have substantial houses of two storeys high, with neat and com- modious steadings. III. — Population. The populatioa of the parish in 1755, the earliest period at which we have any correct information on this subject, was 1264. In 1801, it was only 1120. In 1811, 1257; and in 1821, 1538. According to the census of 1831, the population had increased to 1701. One principal reason for the increase was the number of subtenants or crofters, attached to the large farms, into which a great proportion of the parish has been, for many years, divided. This system of subletting has prevailed very much of late. These subtenants are useful to the farmers as labourers, and when they have their possession on moderate terms, are generally able to sup- port themselves and their families respectably. Unhappily, from the great increase of population, the competition for these small possessions has raised the rents so high, in many instances, that several of the subtenants threaten to be a serious burden on tlie parish funds. There are no towns nor villages of any extent in the parish. What is commonly called the Kirktown consists of ten dwelling- houses, with a population of 38. At fully two miles distance south of the church, is the small straggling village of Gordonstown, consisting of about thirty-five houses, with a population of 100* Both of these villages are inhabited partly by families occupying AUCHTKRLESS. 289 a crofts varying from 6 to t30 acres, and partly by tradesmen of va- rious descriptions. None of them have any permanent feus. The average of births for the last seven years was 45 ; and that of marriages, 11. No register of deaths is kepL This pa- rish has been famed for the longevity of several of its inhabitants. A few instances of longevity may be noticed. Peter Garden, a farmer in this parish, died about sixty years ago, at the very ad- vanced age of 132. He retained his faculties to the last. He lived under ten sovereigns ; Charles I. ; Oliver Cromwell ; Richard Cromwell; Charles II. ; James 11. ; William and Mary; Anne; George I., IL, and III. He was a page to Ogilvie of Banff, before that gentleman was raised to the peerage, and was one of thegarrison in theoldcastle of Towie Barclay, when Montrose defended it against Argyle. He recollected having been sent, when a boy, to the wood to cut boughs for spears in the time of the civil wars. In his latter days he used to describe Montrose, ^' as a little black man, who wore a ruff as the ladies do now-a-days." He was married to his second wife when 120 years old, she being eighty, and danced with great glee on that occasion- Margaret Leslie, who resided in the Kirktown, died about the beginning of the present century, aged 112. George Paterson,also in the Kirktown, died in the year 1808, aged 107, and William Andrew, in Little Cushnie, died in 1817, at the same age. There is only 1 blind person in the parish, and 3 insane. Number of illegitimate births in the course of the last threeyears^ 11. Within the last forty years, the language usually spoken has been gradually improving. The habits of the people are in gene- ral cleanly. The higher classes live well, using animal food. The common fare of the peasantry is meal, milk, and vegetables. The people are generally respectable as to intelligence, morality, and their observance of religious duties. Smuggling never prevailed to any extent, and since the commencement of legal distilleries is altogether unknown. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish contains about 16,000 acres, nearly one-third of which remains uncultivated. There are about 500 acres under wood, all planted, almost entirely with larches and Scotch firs. A great deal more might be profitably employed in planting. The greater part of the woods is young, partly well cared lor, and partly neglected. It is difficult to ascertain the average ABERDEEN. T 290 ABEKDEENSHIRK. rent of arable land per acre in this parish, as many of the best farms are on old leases ; and much inferior land has been lately brought into cultivation. Perhaps it might average about L. 1 per acre, if it were to be let at present Few grass parks are let ; but the avenige rate of grazing an oi is from L. 2 to L. 2, 10s. Lire-StocA.— Since 1792, the number of cattle in the parish has greatly increased. Cattle may now be estimated at upwards of 2000, and horses from 300 to 400. There are only about 600 or 700 sheep, generally of the Cheviot or black-faced kind. The cattle of this dis- trict were crossed with the old Fife breed about sixty years ago, and these produced the far-famed Aberdeenshire stock. There have been various unsuccessful attempts to improve this species, first by the Lancashire, and afterwards the Galloway. Efforts are now mak- ing to improve it by means of the short-horned. Whether these will be more successful, time only can show. The quality of horses has been much improved of late years. The general character of the husbandry in this parish is excellent. The old system of ploughing with a number of oxen has been long disused. Four of them are still sometimes employed for the purpose of tearing in rough ground covered with heath and whins. In 1791, the first thrashing-mill was erected in the parish. At present, almost every farm of 50 or 60 acres in extent has one. As the ground gently rises from both sides of the hollow, and as many tributary rills fall into the Ythan, an opportunity has been afforded in almost every case of turning these by water, so that although there are now about thirty machines in the parish, not more than four or five of these are driven by horses. Along with the system of fallowing and cleaning the land, was introduced that of liming. The whole parish has been substantially limed oftener than once, and has ge- nerally got as. much calcareous earth as it requires, so that at pre- sent less lime can be used. Placed at a distance from large towns, or even considerable villages, the great desideratum has been to get manure. For this purpose alluvial earth from the banks of the Ythan and smaller streams has been taken in great quantities for forming compost dunghills. Lately, bone manure has been much used. Given at the rate of 25 to 30 bushels per acre, it hasi produced splendid crops of turnips, and thus, by increasing the means of keeping cattle, has in some degree increased the manure, and promises to contribute materially to the progressive improvement of the country. A mill for bruising bones has been lately erected by an intelligent farmer in this parish for his own accommodation. AUCUTERLESS. 291 and that of the neighbourhood. U[)on the whole, few parishes in the country are at the present moment in a higher state of culti- vation. Rate of Wages. — The rat« of labour has lately fallen much. Labourers generally get Is. a«day in summer, and 8d. in winter, with victuals. The wages of masons and carpenters from 2s. to 2s. 6d. in summer, and about Is. 6d. in winter. Labour, on ac- count of the pressure of the times, is sometimes below the rates mentioned above, and few labourers can get at all times full em- ployment. V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town in the parish. Turriff, which is six miles distant from the church, and is also the post-town, is the nearest. The turnpike-road leading from Aberdeen to Banff runs along the eastern extremity of the parish for nearly three miles. Two stage-coaches pa<«s every lawful day. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is nearly three miles from the north-east extremity, and about five from the south-west, and is conveniently situated for a large proportion of the inhabi- tants. It was built in 1780, and repaired in 1832. The church contains legal accommodation for 650. An aisle was added in 1885, capable of containing 180. There are no free sittings. The manse was built in 1769, and was put in complete repair in 1814. The glebe measures about six acres, and at an average may be valued at L. 2 per acre. The present stipend is 14 chal- ders, half meal, half barley. There is an allowance of L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements, and of L. 1, Ids. 4d. for grass money. There is no chapel of ease, or other place of worship of any de- scription in the parish. Most of the families are regular in their attendance at the parish church. About twelve families frequent the Scotch Episcopalian chapels in the neighbouring parishes ; and one family attends an Independent meeting in Culsalmond. llie number of communicants is generally about 830. The ave- rage amount of collections for charitable purposes is nearly L.45. Education. — There is one parish school, with five unendow- ed schools. In the parish school the usual branches are taught, such as Greek, Latin, mathematics, arithmetic, English reading, grammar, geography, and writing, &c. In the other schools En- glish reading, writing, and arithmetic are taught. In one ,of the unendowed schools Latin is taught, and in two others sewing. The parish schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and the 'legal 292 ABERDEENSHIRE. accommodation. He has the benefit of the Dick bequest. The fees in the different schools vary from L. 10 to L.25 per annum. The average expense per quarter is from Is. 6d. to 5s. All upwards of fifteen years of age can read. A few cannot write. The people are, in general, alive to the benefits of education, and even the poorer classes show a laudable anxiety to have their families in- 5tructed in the common branches. There is only one corner so re- mote from the parish school as to be inaccessible to their children. Their distance, however, from the school of Culsamond is only about two miles. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons presently receiving parochial aid is 38, and each at an average is allowed about lOd. per week. The sums afising from church collections amount to about L.40 per annum ; and from other sources about L.8. There is still a general reluctance among the people to seek parochial aid ; but this disposition is neither so common nor so strong as formerly. Market. — One market, called Donan Fair, is held in the Kirk- town in the month of April, for the sale of sheep, cattle, &c. The market derives its name from Donan, formerly the tutelary saint of the parish. Alehouses. — There are 7 alehouses, but these have little bad effect on the morals of the people, as the individuals licensed -are decent and respectable characters. Fuel — Peat and turf are the only kinds of fuel to be got in the parish. English coals are a good deal used by many of the inha- bitants. They are driven from Banff and Macduff, about eighteen miles distant. Miscellaneous Observations. The most striking variations betwixt the present state of the parish, and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, are to be found in the improved mode of laying out and enclosing the fields ; in the great increase of turnip husbandry, and the consequent fattening of a number of cattle for the home* and Lfondon markets ; in a stricter attention to the rotation of crops; and in the general superiority of the various cross-roads, thereby affording increased facilities for agricultural improvement. January 1840. PARISH OF RATHEN. PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. WILLIAM COCK, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The parish of Rathen is said to be one of the most ancient in the county of Aberdeen, and at one time contained within its limits the greater part of the parish of Strichen, and a part of the parish of Fraserburgh. The church and teinds» it is said, were at an early period appropriated to the Cathedral of the diocese, the incumbent of the benefice becoming the stipendiary of that establishment, till its dissolution at the Reformation. Extent, ^c. — The parish is 3 miles distant from Fraserburgh, and extends upwards of two miles along the sea-coast betwixt that town and Peterhead ; from thence it runs inland, in a south-west direc- tion, to the extent of seven miles. The average breadth is 2 miles. There is a vein of limestone on the estate of Auchirus, yielding lime of excellent quality for building or manure, which is occupied by an industrious tenant, who has generally a great demand for the lime, chiefly for building. The few plantations in this parish have made a rapid advance during the last fourteen or fifteen years, to which (it is the opinion of the writer of this report) the early seasons we have enjoyed since 1817, have not a little contributed, by the young shoots coming to a degree of maturity before winter. The north-west wind seems to be the most noxious in this district, — the few trees we have, when in exposed situations, being bended towards the south-east. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — The few antiquities in this parish are, I. a Druid temple on the estate of Cortes, from which that property is said to derive its name ; Cortes meaning a circle in the Gaelic language. 2. The three cairns of Memsy, described in the former Statistical Report, one of which only now remains, is composed of small round stones ; the cairn is about 60 feet in circumference at the base, and about 15 or 16 feet high. In the foundation of one of the former 294 ABERDEENSHIRE. cairns, there was discovered an urn of peculiar shape, containing calcined bones. There were also found several human skulls, and a short sword with an iron handle. The latter, with the urn, were, a few years ago, presented to the Society of Antiquaries at Edin- burgh, by Mr Gordon of Cairnbulg. The foundation of one of these cairns exhibits a large mass of vitrified matter, resembling what is found in vitrified forts. On a rising ground east of the church, there have been found at various times urns of different sizes, containing calcined bones. In one of these, a lai^e boar's tusk was discovered about twelve years ago, which is now in the Museum of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. On the boundary of this parish with that of Lonn^ay, there is a well called the Rood Well ; but regarding it, there is no particular tradition. " There are also two mounds, or hillocks of earth, near the church, and not a mile asunder, that seem to have been formed by the hands of men. They are nearly circular, and slope to- wards the top, forming there an horizontal plain, somewhat cir- cular also, of about 30 yards diameter. Both are pretty steep all around ; except that access to the top is tolerably easy on one quarter of each, by means of the rising ground adjoining. The one is called Trefor Hill, and the other St Oyne's. Some thinl they have been old encampments. " There are two old castles in the parish both in ruins — Caim- builg and Inverallochie, which seem to have been places of consi- derable strength, especially (^airnbuilg, — the walls of which are almost entire, and of prodigious thickness. It was the family seat of Lord Salton's predecessors, and called Philorth, till sold by Sir Alexander Fraser in 1613 to Fraser of Durris, when its name was changed to Cairnbuilg : And Sir Alexander then transferred its former name to another house that belonged to him, about a mile to the westward, which it still retains, and has been the seat of the Saltoun family ever since. " Inverallochie appears to be inferior in strength to Cairnbuilg. No date is seen about either of them. Till of late, a stone above the entry to Inverallochie bore, with the Cumines' arms, the fol- lowing inscription : " I, Jordan Cuming gat this house and land for bigging the abbey of Deer." (Old Statistical Account) Buildings. — Mr Gordon of Cairnbulg, about thirty years ago, built a mansion-house on the estate of Cortes, which then belonged to him, but is now the property of James Strahan, Esq. the only UATHEN. 295 resident heritor : it is surrounded with very thriving plantations of different kinds of wood, and ornamented with ponds of water. The estate of Memsy was sold by the late Colonel Fraser to Lord Saltoun, which estate is said to have been the property of Colonel Eraser's ancestors for upwards of three centuries. The mansion house of Memsey is occupied at present by Mrs Leslie, widow of Charles Leslie, Esq. M. D. who died in 1839. Auchiries belongs to Mr Chalmers Hunter of Tillery. Colonel Fraser of Inverallochy built a cottage lately with suitable offices on his es« tate of Inverallochy, favourable for sea-bathing, no doubt, for the occasional residence of his family; his principal residence is at Castle Fraser, a property belonging to the Colonel, situated in the parish of Cluny, in this county. Heritors. — The parish is divided among the following proprie- tors : Right Honourable Lord Saltoun, the patron ; John Gordon, Esq. of Cairnbulg ; Colonel Fraser of Inverallochy ; William C. Hunter, Esq. of Auchiries ; Thomas Gordon, Esq. of Cairness ; John Lumsden Sherifs, Esq. of Kathen ; William J. Anderson, Esq. of Mains and Mill of Forrest ; and William Shand, Esq. of Craigeliie. III. — Population. The population in 16 Jl, \ras 1588 1811, 1734 1821, 1924 1831, 2100 The fishing villages of Inverallochy and Cairnbulg contain a population of nearly 1000 Number of fomilies in 1831, ...... 439 chiefly employed in agriculture, .170 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 38 Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 17 IV. — Industry. Number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either cul- tivated or occasionally in tillage, about . . 4800 Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly watte, or in pasture, about . . 1400 Number of acres in a state of undivided common, Number of acres under wood, whether natural or planted, 112 It is supposed that a few acres might be piofitably added to the land in cultivatiun. Several substantial farm-houses have been lately built in tlie parish, some of them covered with slate and others with tiles. On the &rms of considerable ektent, thrashing-machines have been erected ; which are considered a much more effectual method of se- parating the grain from the straw than the old mode, and a great saving of labour to the farm-servants. Agriculture is conducted, as in the neighbouring parishes, by a regular rotation of crops of sown gnsA and grain, the fields being previously prepared by fallow. 296 ABERDEENSHIRE. crops of turnip, potatoes, or beans. A considerable addition haif been made to the quantity of arable land in the parish, since the Statistical Report of 1793. Fishings. — The estates of Cairnbulgand Inverallochy are the only lands in this parish which extend to the sea-coast On these es- tates there are fishing villages very contiguous, containing by the census of 1831, 820 inhabitants. In 1801, there were only 404 inhabitants in those villages. During the herring-fishing at Fraserburgh, which commences in July, and generally continues to the end of September, the fishing villages in this parish are almost deserted, as the fishers who are able to be employed at that fishing remove to Fraserburgh with their families. On the shores of these estates, there is often abundance of sea- weed, affording additional supply of manure to the lands. Till of late, when the season and weather permitted, a great part of the sea-weed from the rocks, or drifted ware, was manufactured into kelp, jn some seasons, it is said, to upwards of 80 tons. The re- duced value of kelp, within these few years, has caused the mak- ing of kelp to be almost discontinued on this coast. The estates of Cairnbulg and Inverallochy are very valuable when compared with their extent, the abundance of sea-weed afibrding a great additional supply of manure, by which means the occupiers of the lands are enabled to keep their farms in a high state of cultivation. Rent — The real rent of the parish is supposed to exceed L. 5000 Sterling ; the valued rent is L. 3520 Scots. This parish is separated from the parish of Fraserburgh by a small stream called the water of Philorth or Rathen, which has its source in the upper part of the parish of Tyrie. Trout of con- siderable size and various kinds are caught in it ; but it does not appear at present to be frequented by salmon. The writer of this report is informed by the proprietor of Cairnbulg, that he has a grant of salmon-fishing in that stream from the Crown, of a remote date, — which would lead to the conclusion, that at one period it had not been entirely destitute of that description of fish. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — The turnpike-roads from Aberdeen and Peterhead to Fraserburgh form a junction in this parish on the estate of Cortes. The cro§s roads have of late been much improved. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is old, and inadequate to the population. The minister's stipend is L. 100, 3s. 9{l(L includ- ing communion elements allowance ; 39 bolls 2 firlots bear ; and DRUMBLADE. 297 44 bolls, 3 pecks, and | lippy meaL The glebe consists of 5^ acres. The manse was built in 1803. The number of families belonging to the Established Church is 400 ; of Dissenting or Se- ceding families, 40. Education. — There is at present only one parochial school in the parish^ and two private schools; but the parish would require ad- ditional schools, which it is hoped will soon take place. The pa- rochial schoolmaster's salary is the minimum, biit he receives a share of the donation bequeathed by the late Mr Dick to the schoolmasters in the counties of Aberdeen, Banff, and Moray. His fees may amount to betwixt L. 24 and L. 3*2 per annum. Poor. — The average number of the poor of all classes in the three years preceding 1838, 77 ; average on the permanent roll, 24| ; average of those not on the permanent roll, 43. Average amount distributed among poor on the permanent roll, L.46, 19s.; average amount distributed among poor not on the permanent roll, L.14, 16s.; average amount distributed for support of lunatics, L.14. Average amount from church collections, L. 55 ; from other voluntary contributions, L.11, lis.; from mortiBcations, mortcloth dues, &c. L. 24, 10s. January 1840. PARISH OF DRUMBLADE. PRESBYTERY OF TURRIFF, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. GEORGE R. DAVIDSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of this parish seems to have been Drumblait, which signifies in Gaelic, hills or braes covered or fledged. The modern name is written Drumblade. Boundaries^ Sfc. — It is bounded, on the north and east, by the parish of Forgue ; on the south, by Insch and Gartly, in a glen called Foudlin, in which, though of small extent, no fewer than five parishes meet ; on the west, it is bounded by the river Bogie, which in that point separates it both from Huntly and Gartly. Extent^ Sfc, — The parish is considerably diversified by small hills, mostly cultivated, and gently sloping valleys, with one flat on the 298 ABEUDEENSUIRE. north and west of large extent, so level, that the draining of it hitherto has not been very complete, from the want of proper fall for the water. This flat is still called the Knightland Moss, though it has long ceased to possess that character, being now either under the plough or in pasture. The length of the parish from north-east to south-west may be 7 miles ; greatest breadth between 5 and 6 miles; in some places, however, the breadth is less than 2 miles. Meteorology. — The temperature in general may be described as moderate, and the atmosphere wholesome, and the draining through the parish being now very extensive, and for the most part effectual, the climate must in consequence be greatly supe- rior to what it had been in former years. The north-west wind is perhaps the most prevalent. Hydrography. — The only stream of any consequence in the parish is the Bogie, which divides it on the west from the town and pailsh of Huntly. There are other insignificant streamlets or burns in the parish, and dividing it in part from neighbouring pa- rishes. Of these, the burn which on the east divides the lower part of the parish from Forgue, is to be mentioned, — and the Knightland Burn, which again divides part oftholiorth district of the parish from Kinore, once a separate parish, but which is now united to the other old parish of Dumbennan, — they forming to- gether the more modern parish of Strathbogie, or, as it is more generally designed, Huntly. There are some mineral wells in the parish — none, however, of note. Their quality is chalybeate. There are others that are called saints' wells, and which are still distinguished by the saint's particular name, or a corruption of the same — as one at Burnside, in the neighbourhood of the church, called Teller's Well, an eyi- dent corruption of St Hilary's. The time has been when peculiar virtues were attributed to these, not from any mineral properties which they were supposed to possess, but from the blessing of the saint whose name they bear; but these and other similar supersti- tions have, from the greater enlightenment of these Protestant times, now very properly died away. There are no lakes or lochs in the parish. A few years ago there remained a small specimen of such at Silverhillock, the wa- ters of which, it has been aflSrmed, ebbed and flowed like the tide, but, as may be supposed, on no kind of evidence that can be sub- stantiated. Within these few years, by the application of proper DRUMBLAOE. 299 draining, it has disappeared, and hardly any trace of it can now be observed. Geology and Mineralogy. — There is nothing very remarkable to state under this head. Besides blocks of common whinstone (greenstone) that are found in many parts of the parish, there are likewise rocks both of limestone and granite — the former, however, of a description so inferior, as not to be used for its mineralogical property. The granite, again, of which there is *a considerable quarry on the farm of Corvichen, within a short distance of Huntly, is of good quality, and not inferior, it is believed, to the well-known granite so extensively worked in the vicinity of Aber- deen, and equally beautiful. When newly dissevered from the parent rock, it is softer, and much more workable than after it lies for a time exposed to the action of the air — which renders it peculiarly adapted for building purposes, where durability is of first rate consequence. The granite rock in this place is covered almost exclusively with small gravel of a granular kind — consist- ingf in fact, in a great measure, of the same elements with the granite itself beneath, though of a yellower and somewhat dirtier colour, showing that it is the same in a state of decomposition. The subsoil throughout, in this part of the parish, is of a gravelly kind, consisting of yellow sand and round stones, of a colour that would indicate the presence and action of iron or other metallic influence. Fossil Organic Remains. — It may be mentioned, that hazel-nuts, in a state of great preservation as to external appearance, have been found deeply imbedded in moss, with roots and branches of the parent trees from which they sprung. In the moss of Tho- mastown, in particular, now under cultivation, when drains were cut to the extent of several feet, these were found in considerable quantity, and in such preservation without, as to indicate almost the possibility of some remaining freshness within them. On the tarm of Cocklarachy, in the year 1833 or 1834, an oak of large dimensions was discovered about five feet below the sur- face, imbedded also in moss — about 100 yards above the bridge that crosses the Bogie toward the Huntly and Rhynie turnpike, about the same distance from this river, and not much above its level. It was nearly black, and the bark for the most part rotted off. Being very heavy, the thick part of the trunk was raised in two pieces-— one about 10 feet long and the other 12 — the ave- rage girth was about 7 feet, and the two pieces contained from 300 ABEUDEENSUIRE. 60 to 70 cubic feet of timber. The top of the tree was not raised, so that its full size was not ascertained. These solid parts were sent to Gordon Castle, where, after having been left for a time to dry gradually, they were cut up for cabinet purposes. The ex- tremities of several such oaks may stiH be seen sticking out from the bank of the burn, a little below the church and glebe of Drum- blade, on the farm of Baggry Mill, parish of Forgue. Soilj Sfc. — The soil in this parish, though presenting consider- able variety, may be said in general to be of a superior kind, con- sisting, for the most part, of a deep rich loam, capable in favourable seasons of yielding abundant crops, and if the climate (still suscep- tible of great improvement, were more attention paid to hedging and planting), were equal to the soil, it would, it is believed, be found particularly adapted for wheat cultiire, which has begun of late years to be somewhat attended to. There is at the same time in many places a coldness of subsoil, which is not very encouraging, arising, perhaps for the most part, from a still imperfect drainage, which the ordinary system practised does not seem fully to overcome, not only from the soil being unusually stiff and retentive, but from a hard crust often found beneath, which, it is hoped, the trench, or subsoil plough, now begun to be introduced, may do much to re- move. While the greater part of the parish consists of this stiff heavy soil, there is yet a very considerable difference between the western district, to the south and west of the Aberdeen and Huntly turnpike, and the other districts. The former being of a lighter and sharper description, with a subsoil consisting generally of loose sand and gravel, and somewhat earlier than the other parts. II. — Civil History. Historical Events, — The most interesting event that falls to be noticed under this head, is the circumstance of King Robert Bruca having lain encamped here during a time of severe sickness, while he kept in check at the same time Commyn, Earl of Buchan, who had followed him hither, and who was then and long before one of the most powerful of the Scottish barons. This seems to have been just before the battle of Barra, which was fought between the same parties in the year 1307. History and tradition have pretty uniformly pointed to Sliach in this parish as the place so distinguished, — a certain height upon which is called Robin or Robin's Height at this day. Indeed, this point seems never to have been disputed until within the last few years, when Mr Tytler, in general, the most accurate and philoso- DRUMBLADE. 301 phical historian of our country that has yet appeared, has been pleased to transfer this honour from Sliach in Drumblade, to Slains, a bleak and rocky district on the Buchan coast, but with- out stating any authority for the change. It is certain that tradition, universally prevalent here, as well as what can be gathered from the metrical historian Barbour, are both af^nst him. For although the name given by the latter (Slanach) is not the same as either, yet there are circumstances detailed in bis narrative that render it not only extremely improbable, but quite inconsistent, that Slains should be the place referred to. King RoberT, that historian relates, had come over the ^^ Mounth" to Inverury : — at Inverury he was taken sick. It was not judged expedient by his adherents to meet the enemy while he lay in this cx)ndition, and, instead of continuing, therefore, exposed in the plain, they resolve to betake themselves to some place of strength, and for this reason the Slenach is preferred. Experiencing there, iiowever, some want of provision, and having daily to encounter the archers of Earl Buchan in their endeavours to supply it, they de- termine to carry the king in a litter to Strathbogie^ (now Huntly), which, in spite of all opposition, they accomplished accordingly. Now, taking Mr Tytler's account, there is not only the improba- bility to contend against of the king's being carried so far in a lit- ter as from Slains to Strathbogie in his present infirm condition, but Earl Buchan, as appears, seeing the intrepidity of the king's party at their very outset, lost courage, and ^' went back to Buchan," which leads to' this farther inconsistency, that, had Slains been the place, he and hb men were in Buchan already.* Antiquities. — On the same height above-mentioned, there were some years ago entrenchments to be seen, said to have been the remains of a Roman camp. The probability is, however, that these remains were connected with Bruce's encampment above re- ferred to, or with the strength or fortress which probably then existed upon it. Immense masses of large stones lie at the foot of this bill, and some have been found, it is said, with inscriptions upon them, none of which, however, are now to be seen. * Vide Barbour*8 Bruce by Jamieaon, Vol i. pp. 169-70-71, where the above view •eemt to be confirmed. The traditions current here are completely accordant with this account by Bar- bour, wbo« it is to be remembered, wrote bis history of " The Bruce,*' at no distant pe- riod after Uie event took place, and whose work Fordun describes as perspicuous and elegant. The bill on Sliach, as stated above, is still called Robin or Robin*s Height. The king's sickness was flux, as local tradition has it, and a well in the vicinity is still pointed out, the water of which is represented as having been instrumental to- wards his recovery. 302 ABEROEBNSHIRE. In the same vicinity, stand three tumuli, the largest at the base of Robin's Height, called Meethillock, and the other two at no great distance, and on the same level ground below. It is conjectured that these tumuli were raised by Bruce's army as posts of communi- cation for his soldiers. None of them have been opened. So far as the plough can yield information, there is every appearance of their being artificial. From the examination of one of them, the second in size, called Tarry £>uncan, on the farm of Cairnhiil, ex^ cepting about four inches of black mould in the surface, the soil beneath appears quite soft, and without any stones. From observ- ing that the ridge on which it stands has little on its surface but clay, it would seem that the mould from it had been cleared away to form this tumulus. The third mentioned is indeed beyond the boundary of the pa- rish, but still so near the others, that they have all evidently been connected in their origin. It is on the farm of Causeway End, Kinore, — this farm being so called, it is said, because here ter- minated a Roman causeway, which, running through the old moss called Knightland moss, connected this place with Sliach. Another tumulus, at one time, stood at the north-east end of the same range of high ground that forms at the west extremity, Robin Height, and nearly two miles distant from it. Many still remember it. When opened, a number of great stones, placed in a circular form, were found within ; but it is not reported that any of them bore inscriptions. The stones were used for fencing the plantation which now covers this ridge, and all trace of the tumu- lus seems to be removed. A little way below this, and between the properties of Newton Garry and Lessendrum, the head of a spear or javelin, of large size, was found some time ago, as have likewise been smaller ones, like arrow-heads, in other parts of the parish. There is another hill in the parish, and not far from Huntly, denominated the ^^ Battle Hill," that deserves notice as the scene of a conflict said to have taken place at a later period between the Cummins and Gordons. Hardly any thing connected with it has been handed down beyond the name. It stands not far from Cor- vichen, a farm on the Gordon property, once a separate domain, where a strong house or castle appears once to have stood. Some remains of its foundation are still to be traced. On the opposite side of the hollow, and standing over against the Battle Hill, Cor- vichen, is the Ba Hill, taking its name very probably from a game •fi-. DRUMBLADR. 303 once common, that of foot-ball, at which large parties would often meet, and eagerly contend together for the palm of victory.* Parochial Registers. — The oldest parochial register commences 1702, and ends 1738. It is simply a register of births and bap- tisms, containing no details. The second, commencing 1743, is much fuller, and contains, along with such register, a record of the session's discipline and diligence down to 1790. From that time to 1821 the record had again passed into a simple register, with session's collections and disbursements for the poor, and the names merely of those subjecting themselves to discipline, set over against the money-penalties which had been exacted from them. With the exception of deaths and burials, of which there has been no register kept, the record has lately been much more full, and contains now a general entry of all that is ordinarily transacted in the session. There are four silver communion-cups, two of them gifted by Greorge Chalmer, a minister of the parish in the times of Episco- pacy ; the other two by Mr Abel, also minister, who died in 1794. There is also a hand-bell of considerable antiquity, with the name George Biset upon it, 1504. There have been in all eight ministers of this parish, from the period of the Revolution, or rather from the death of the last Episcopalian incumbent, to the present time. The first Presby- terian, Mr John Turing, ordained and admitted 16th March 1703, died 1st February 1733; Mr John Stuart, translated from Longbride, and admitted at Drumblade 1st February 1734, died January 1743; Mr George Gordon, translated from Bourtie, and admitted at Drumblade, 19th October 1743, died 8th December 1763; Mr William Bisset, translated from Foot- Dee, and admit- ted at Drumblade, July Uth 1764, translated to Dundee 22d May 1765; Mr George Abel, ordained and admitted April 2d 1766, died September 1794; Mr Robert Gordon, ordained and admitted May 1795, died 27th November 1820; Dr Robert J. Brown, ordained and admitted 25th September 1821, translat- * Among the fiiinily papers at Lessendnim, tbere is still extant an old and curious deed of mrrender, by which Walter Byset makes over his whole lands to the Pupc*8 Legate, to be held by the Holy See. It is drawn up by Willermus Lenix, clerk of the diocese of Brccbin, and runs as follows : — <* In ye name of ye Lord» Amen. — In ye year after ye incarnation 1379, on the I4th day of July, in ye 2d of ye indiction, and in ye Ist year of ye Pontificate of ye most holy Father in Christ, Clement, by Dxfine Providence, Pope 7th of that name. In the presence of my notary.*' &c. &c. The original is in Latin, and written on vellum. N. B. At the date of this instrument there were two Popes, Urban and Clement ; the ibrmer was acknowledged by England) but the latter by Scotland. 304 ABERDEENSHIRK. ed to the Greek chair, Marischal G)llege) Aberdeen, in Decem- ber 1827; Mr George Ramsay Davidson, the present minister^ was ordained and admitted 8th May 1828. At one time, there was evidently a chapel or religious house in the parish besides the church. There are now no remains of the building; but the form of a burying -ground is still seen, now fenced and planted, and a well called the Chapel Well. Land-oumers. — There are altogether five heritors, viz. the Duke of Richmond, who now inherits the Gordon property, and posses- ses exactly half the valued rent of the parish ; William Bisset, Esq. of Lessendrum; Archibald Duff, Esq. of Drummuir, (lands of Dummuies) ; John Humphrey, Esq. of Comalleggie ; and John Lawson, Esq. of Chapelton. Modem Buildings. — The only mansion-house in the parish is that of Lessendrum, William Bisset, Esq. who is the only residing heritor. It is partly an old and partly a modern building, it hav- ing recently undergone a very extensive addition and repair at the hands of the present proprietor. III. — Population. According to Dr Webster the population amounted in 1750 to . 1125 in 1790 it was reduced to 866 of whom 427 were males ; and 459 females^ There were then belonging to the Established Church, 812 ; Seceders, 40; Epii* copalians, 90 ; Papists, 4. The population in 1782 was 876 17H8 . 892 1784 . 887 1786 . 914 1787 . 913 1788 874 By the GoTernment census in 1811 it was 780 1821 871 1831 . 987 Average number of births during last seven years, about . . 22 marriages, . ... . . 5 persons under 12 years of age, • . . 205 under 15, . . . . SJQ No. of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, 17 women and widows upwards of 45 years of age, . 96 Number of families, , 171 Average number of children, . 5^ Number of uninhabited houses, . 2 Number of illegitimate births in the' course of the last three years has been 16, making an average of 5 J in the year; 4 of these have been antenuptial cases, and 2 of them adultery. There is I insane person belonging to the parish ; 3 fatuous, two males and a female ; 4 deaf and dumb. Character of the People. — The people are, for the" most part, open, frank, and intelligent. They are hospitable in their man- 3 DRUMBLADE. 3O5 ners; and their charity, not always discriminating in regard to wan- dering poor, seems to be dictated pretty much by a simple feeling of humanity. Though not inferior, it is believed, to the other districts around, the standard of religion and morality cannot be rated very high. Impurity and intemperance, though both, it is hoped, are on the decline, are still not unfrequently to be met with. In the class of farm-servants, the former vice particularly has been very prevailing. The ordinances of religion, and the services of the sanctuary, are generally well attended, as also those of a more private or local kind, on week-days. The practice of advertising sales, &c. by proclamation at the church-doors, after divine service, is now abolished, as also all fines or penalties formerly levied by the session in cases of disci-* pline, — this being left to the civil magistrate. IV. — Industry. The inhabitants of this parish, with very few exceptions, are employed in agriculture, as farmers, crofters, labourers, or farm- servants. The only considerable works of a public kind carried on in the parish are a distillery, bleachfield, and two potato-flour manufactories. At the distillery there are 13 persons employed, and there are annually sent from it upwards of 40,000 gallons of superior spirit, made from malt only, and thus yielding to Govern- ment about L. 10,000 a-year in duty. There are also two meal- mills, a barley-mill, a lint-mill, and two wool-mills in the parish. Mills had at one period been more numerous, as the names of se- veral farms still denote where no mills now exist. Of handicraftsmen, &c there are only 2 masons, 1 square- wright, 1 cooper, 1 weaver, no tailor, 5 shoemakers, (including 3 workmen,) 3 blacksmiths, (including 1 workman,) 1 baker, 4 mer- chants or shop-keepers, one of whom retails spirits; 4 publicans and 1 maltster. There are thus not more than from 60 to 80 individuals, reckoning both parents and children, that are not either directly employed in * agriculture, or have their depend- ence chiefly upon it — and of those even here set down as ar- tisans, many of these cultivate a small croft besides attending to their other business. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The superficial extent of the parish may be estimated at 6400 acres (Scots,) 5000 of which are arable, 1000 unimproved, and about 400 under plantation, consisting for the most part of larch and Scotch fir, with occa- sionally an intermixture of spruce and beech. Of the unimproved ABERDEEN. U 306 ABEUDEENSHIRE. ground, there may not be above 100 acres now remaining, tbat^ with any profitable application of capital, could be added to the cultivated land. Bent of Land. — The average rent of land may be stated at L. 1 an acre. For one description and another, it may be said to range from 5s. to L. 2, and some * smaller portions upwards. Some few possessions might, perhaps, be pointed out as decidedly too high, while others, again, may be somewhat under a fair ave- rage rent. The difference between value and actual rent that may occasionally occur, is attributed by some to surveyors from a distance being employed as the valuators, as often as farms come into the market, unassisted by practical farmers personally ac- quainted with the district. Such instances, however, cannot be by any means many — but the evil that operates most extensively in causing at any time a high rent is, that when a possession va- cates, a competition arises among offerers themselves, occurring more particularly in the case of crofts and smaller possessionSf which, from this cause, are almost invariably dearer than large. Under the valuation system now commonly introduced, it can- not be said, unless in very peculiar circumstances, that lands here have often changed hands. The valued rent of the parish is only L. 3066, 138. 4d. Scots, while the real rent must be about L. 5000 Sterling. Wagesy Sfc. — The rate of labour for an ordinary farm-servant may average about L.1'2 for the year, exclusive of board; expense including both may, therefore, be L. '20 and upwards. They are seldom engaged for more than half a year at a time, and as they do not in general renew their engagements except in a feeing-mar- ket, — a system by no means favourable to morals, — there is hence a great deal of shifting about among them at every term. Besides the direct temptations to which they are exposed in these markets, when they appear there, it follows that they are not so dependent on character for a new engagement as, on an improved system, they would and ought to be. The wages of out- door female servants, of whom there are not a few, vary from L.2, 10s. to L. 3 for the summer half year, and from L.1, 7s. to L.J, 15s. in winter. A mason will ordinarily earn from 16s. to 18s. a-week ; a wright, 16s. It is very common for young people from ten to sixteen years of age to be employed in herding, for which they earn for themselves or parents from L. 2 to L. 3^ and maintenance during the summer months. This system, though a considerable help for a poor man's family^ DRUMBLADE. 307 18 not favourslble, one would think, to the promoting of active ha- bits, and is a material drawback upon their education ; however were it not for the trifle so gained at this part of the season, they might, perhaps, from want of means, be deprived of it, to a still greater extent. The principal crops raised in the parish are oats, viz. potato, early Angus, and what are called sandy oats : — these last, which are neither so late nor so tender as the potato, and produce, be- sides, a greater bulk, it is said, of straw for fodder, and a good mealing oat, seem now to be much in favour. There is also the Hopetoun oat, which, however, does not appear to have taken here, though still sown partially ; and bear or bigg, of which there is ge- nerally a proportion after green crop, and a few parcels of wheat, which it wants climate only to bring into more extensive culture. Prices of Provisions. — These are not high. Fresh butter from 5d. to 6d. the imperial pound ; eggs Sd. to 4^d. a dozen ; fowls Is. 8d. to 2s. a pair; chickens 8d. to lOd.; beef and mutton 5d. and 5^d. a pound ; veal seldom to be had either in the parish or neighbourhood. Husbandry. — The ordinary husbandry pursued is the five and seven-shift course, particularly the latter, being three grasses and two white crops for the seven, and two grasses and one white crop for the five, — which in dry land is found to answer very well, while in wet or clay land, the third year's grass becomes inferior. Live-stock. — This being very much a rearing district for cattle, these fall particularly to be mentioned. The breed is for the most part Aberdeenshire, mixed with highland. Some few of the short-homed have lately been introduced. As they have not yet been long or extensively tried, they cannot be so decisively pro- nounced upon. They seem, however, to promise well, giving greater strength of bone, which was much wanted, and shewing a tendency to feed sooner. The returns arising from cattle may not be stated at less than from L.dOOO to L.3500 annually within the parish ; and the amount arising from dairy and poultry produce may be stated at something between L.1700 and L.2000. InqfTOvements. — During the last thirty years, the improvements that have taken place in reclaiming waste lands have been very con- siderable, almost doubling, perhaps, in that time the whole cultiva- tion, and, at all events, the produce of former years. They have been accomplished for the most part by draining and liming, car- ried on chiefly by the occupiers themselves, and at an expense on 308 ABBRDEENSHIBE. their part of not less, it is considered, than L. 12,000. These seem to have been begun by tenants taking advantage of the march ditches formed by the proprietors, by directing division ditches, &C. into them, and which giving good promise of utility if car* ried to a larger extent, the people began generally to adopt the practice, and have certainly, without much encouragement other- wise, evinced very considerable industry and judgment in carrying forward, in almost all cases at their own expense, the work of im- provement, and with undoubted benefit both to themselves and the proprietors. By one farmer alone there have been 150 acres im- proved, for which the Highland Society awarded him their gold medal some years ago, — and by another there have been improved about 100 acres. In 1817, another gold medal was awarded by the Society of Arts and Manufactures, to a proprietor in this parish, for planting forest trees (to the extent of 235 acres, on a property consisting al- together of 571 acres.) This gentleman deserves credit also for other improvements, and for the enlightened encouragement he gave to his tenants at a time when such stimulus was much want- ed. He began by casting drains with the view of improving his property ; for those on the boundaries he charged his tenants nothing, but for the drains through the fields he charged them 5 per cent., by which they were considerable gainers, and were en- abled to pay their rents more easily, while the property at the same time was much improved. The drains proving eflfectual, the ad- vantage of liming soon became apparent, but the times being then very backward for tenants in general, he advanced money for that purpose to those having leases, at 5 per cent. ; and to those just entering he agreed to furnish a certain quantity, taking the value likely to be received into consideration, and charging it according- ly, all which proved most beneficial to proprietor and tenant. The improvement of a property in some such way as this, and the dealing with tenants on fair and reasonable terms, where especially any diflSculties on their part are experienced, is in many respects preferable, one may easily suppose, to the plan adopted sometime^ by other proprietors, from a principle equally laudable, of giving discounts in less favourable seasons, and serves more effectually to keep up that proper spirit of independence which is so important and praiseworthy in every condition of life. Produce. — The average gross amount of grain now raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be put down at 1 0,000 DKUM BLADE. 3O9 quarters, with a due proportion of green crop, according to the husbandry, consisting of potatoes and turnips, for cattle and for do- mestic uses. Of the grain there may be 6000 quarters exported. The ordinary duration of leases is nineteen years, and the rents are paid generally in money, or with a small proportion, perhaps, in meaL The paying of rent by the fiar prices, with a maximum and minimum, which many think would be the fairest plan, has not yet been introduced here. Farms vary , in extent from *250 to 20 acres ; but there is a num» ber of crofts, besides, considerably smaller, and this variety does not seem to work unfavourably. Farm- Buildings. — The farm-houses and offices* (and the former more especially) are not in general in proper keeping with the value of the farms to which they are attached, nor with the amount of capital of which the occupants must necessarily be possessed in order to carry them on, owing to the very limited encouragement generally given for this purpose. It may be mentioned that the system usually practised is, that the whole burden of the houses falls upon the occupant, for which he is allowed a certain return at the end of his lease, provided they shall then be declared of that value, and whatever additional build- ings in the course of his lease his growing industry may require, he may erect the same if he please, but it is entirely at his own risk and responsibility, the landlord holding himself bound to no more than the certain modified sum originally specified, whatever now may be their additional value. Here it is evident the terms are un> equal. Should dilapidation ensue the tenant may get less than the sum agreed upon at entry, but should the value be never so much increased by additional or improved accommodation, that allowance becomes no more. The tenant's interest in the buildings accord- ingly being thus limited to the duration of his lease, with the ex- ception of the small sura above referred to, which seldom, it is be- lieved, nearly covers his outlay, he has no encouragement either to make them substantial, or even to build them to an extent equal to his requirements; and thus, in fact, there is a constant building and patchwork going on, of the most inferior and unsubstantial kind. There is a twofold evil manifestly arising out of this system. !«/, The general inferiority of the farmer's accommodations ; and 2d^ The circumstance that a certain portion of his capital should, through the full currency of his lease, be made to lie thus wholly unproductive, which, were the necessary accommodations afforded 310 ABERDEENSHIRE. by the landlord, (whose iuterests in the property are permanent)^ and a moderate per centage merely charged upon them, he would have had freely in hand, to lay out in improving and enriching his farm. In other words, the practice, while straitening to the tenant from the very outset, appears to be favourable in the end neither to him nor to the landlord ; and here, without doubt, the entail sys- tem operates in a way that is by no means favourable to the march of improvement. Enclosures. — Notwithstanding the extensive improvements which have taken place in cultivation, there is still much wanted in the way both of plantation and enclosures. Belts of the former more generally interspersed, and hedges, with ditches, would be both or- namental, and would increase greatly both convenience and shel- ter ; and were due encouragement given by proprietors to this end, ipucli would undoubtedly be done, and many comers now lying waste would be profitably and ornamentally occupied. V. — Parochial EcoNOMy. Market^Toum. — There is no market-town nor village in this pa- rish. The nearest town, and that on which the inhabitants are mostly dependent both for post and market, is Huntly, which is four miles distant from the church, but considerably nearer to the great bulk of the parishioners. There is no post or regular course of conveyance from the post-oflBce in Huntly to this parish, if we may except an individual who passes on foot once a-week to Forgue, carrying letters and newspapers to those in his immediate line of road at a moderate charge. Means of Communication. — A regular post conveyance or run- ner from Huntly to Turriff, with receiving-houses at different stages, would be a vast convenience to the inhabitants of that large and in many respects important inland district, a great part of which is at present very badly situate in this respect. Letters from this to Turriff and neighbourhood, a distance of twelve miles, put in at Huntly, usually go round all the way by Aberdeen, (above seventy miles), before they reach their [destination. The other towns with which this parish maintains considerable communica- tion, are Banff, Macduff, and Portsoy, eighteen and nineteen miles distant, and Inverury, which is about twenty. These, particularly the two first, are the towns to which the grain is chiefly carried for export. There is considerable extent of turn- pike road within this parish, say ten miles, six of which consist of DRUMBLADE. 311 the Aberdeen and Huntly or laverness great post-road, and four the Huntly and Banff turnpike. There are three coaches, the Mail, the North Defiance, and Duchess of Gordon, that pass through the parish north and south daily. Ecclesiastical State. — The division of this and the neighbouring parishes is as preposterous as can well be imagined. The church is placed within a few yards of the boundary on one side, though four and five miles from the opposite point, while the people resi- dent there, in order to attend their parish church, have to travel three or four miles farther, than they would have to attend one in a neighbouring parish — nay, have actually to pass the one at a very short distance, to get at the other, with which they are parochial- ly connected. The consequence is, that the strictly parochial sys- tem is broken in upon, and that beautiful reciprocity of interest and of feeling which ought ever to subsist between a minister and his own people to a certain extent impaired. Besides the west end of the parish, which has already been stated as five miles distant from the parish church, there are other points three and four miles distant, and nearly two-fifths of the population are at a distance of two miles and upwards. Were an arrangement entered into of giving and taking, with some of the parishes adjoining, a very im- portant improvement to all would be effected ; indeed, were a ge- neral revision of parishes to take place, and some great Legisla- tive measure founded upon it to be introduced, the benefit result- ing therefrom would be almost universal. The church was built in 1773, and received some improvements in 1829, and certain additional sittings have been made out since. There is accommodation for between 500 and 600 persons. The sittings for the most'part are portioned out to the occupiers of the land, who pay something for them at entry on a lease, to the outgoing ten- ant They may all be said, therefore, in a sense to be paid for, though the payment, it is believed, is not large. It would be of some consequence at any general re-letting of farms on a property, that the right and extent of church room attached to each should be revised, and a new arrangement made where necessary ; both as considerable changes are from time to time occurring in the disposal of families, and because the leaving of this important matter to private settlement between outgoing and incoming tenants, has frequently led to great irregularities in this respect In some instances seats have been improperly transferred altoge- 312 ABERDEENSHIRE. ther from the farms with which they originally stood connected, and a general indistinctness and confusion prevail otherwise u]K)n the subject The session let upwards of 100 sittings at from Is. to ls.dd. each, and there are some lately erected to which they admit gratis. These consist of forms wherever there was space to admit them, and may accommodate upwards of twenty persons. They are chiefly occupied by old people and children attending the Sabbath school. There are no seats unlet that are set apart for letting, and these and others are in general fully occupied. Mortijications. — Two benefactions of L.lOO each are upon re- cord, one in the year 1793, by the Rev. George Abel, sometime minister of the parish, and another by his widow, several years sub- sequent ; also a share in common with the other parishes in the synod, of what is called Burnet's Mortification. L. 20 has been the portion hitherto received by this parish, and as it goes from presbytery to presbytery in turn, it comes to be paid in each pa- rish once in a number of years. The manse was built in 1824, is quite near to the church, and in good repair. The glebe, one-half of which is beside the manse, the other at some distance, consists of nearly 10 acres, and is all arable. The stipend of Drumblade amounts in all to 84 bolls, 1^ Hppy of oatmeal ; 9 bolls, 3 iirlots, 2 pecks, 3 lippies of bear, mostly paid in kind; and L. 41, 17s. 7d. in money, paid by the heritors from the teinds of the parish ; and L.51, 9s. lid. paid by the Ex- chequer, to augment the same to the annual value of L.150. There is no other place of worship, either Chapel of Ease or Dissenting, within the parish, besides the parish church. There are, however, a few preaching stations occupied by the parish minister for week-day services, and which continue to be well at- tended. There are in all 171 families or householders, male and female, in the parish, 152 of which belong to the Established Church, and 19 in all to the various classes of Dissenters. Reckoning the whole popula* tion at 970, which, though somewhat less than the return made at the last Government census, is all that have been found atthisdate, there are belonging to the Established Church, 856 ; Episcopalians, 50; United Secession, 20 ; Independents, 40 ; Roman Catholics, 4. Theaveragenumber of communicants (parishioners) in the parish church is from"340 to 350, and, including non -parishioners, may be about 60 more. The sacrament of the Lord's supper is now dis- 4 DRUMBLADE. 313 pensied twice a-year, and all communicants who request such pri- yilege here for the first time, however frequently they may have communicated before in other parishes, are strictly examined anew when they bring their testimonials, previous to their admission — which practice has been found to be attended with most beneficial effect. There is an association instituted for religious purposes — deno' minated the Drumblade Bible and Missionary Association, the con- tributions to which have hitherto been gradually increasing, and the sum now raised annually is from L. 24 to L.25. This sum has been divided among the home and foreign objects now carried forward by the Church of Scotland ; the Edinburgh Bible, and the Scot- tish Missionary, Societies. Library, — There is also a parish library, the contributions to which are likewise on the increase ; and, though yet of no great extent, it is still in a promising condition. The books appear to be pretty extensively read, and the institution appreciated. There are usually three Sabbath schools in the parish, — one taught by the parish minister, and three assistant teachers under his superintendence, and two in other parts of the parish, taught by respectable Dissenters. Education. — There may scarcely be said to be any school with- in the parish but the parochial — one female teaches a few child- ren sewing and knitting. The numbers attending the parish school vary from 46 to 72 — the former being about the num- ber in summer, the latter in winter. The branches taught are, reading, writing, English Grammar, arithmetic, geography, Latin, and mathematics, including mensuration. The school- n^aster's salary amounts to L.30; probable amount of school fees, L.24, 10s. ; emoluments arising from the Dick Bequest, in common with the other parochial teachers in Aberdeen, Banff, and Morayshires, session-clerkship, &c. may be stated at L.35. The school fees are by no means expensive, and the advantages of education are generally secured more or less by all classes of the community. There are none brought up in the parish who cannot read, and few of the rising generation under filteen years who cannot both write and account. Persons have occasionally been met with from other parishes unable to read, and, with some ex- ception, these have not been found in general much disposed to undergo the labour of overcoming that deficiency. There are many parts of the parish inconveniently distant from the parish 314 ABERDEENSHIRE. school, yet this is in general so far supplied by their proximity to others without the bounds. A respectable female or girls' school for branches not exclusively elementary, would be an important improvement. The improved methods of education have been ge- nerally introduced, and, whatever may be the result in point of morals or otherwise, nothing can be more apparent than that the youth of all classes now enjoy advantages and facilities for acquir- ing information, intellectual and spiritual, far beyond what was common in former times. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of paupers actually on the roll does not exceed five or six, though as many others, perhaps, as poor householders, are in the way of receiving occasional supplies. The maintaining of a lunatic, however, in the asylum at Aberdeen, has of late been a considerable burden upon the funds. The ordinary mode of keeping up the fund is by church collections, the average amount of which for the last five years has been about L. t27 ; the rest is made up from cer- tain sums lying at interest, and from church seats let by the ses- sion, and, were it not for the heavy charge above«mentioned, would be amply sufficient for maintaining the small number, both of the ordinary and occasional poor. The reluctance to fall upon a parish fund is not, perhaps, what it once was ; yet, on the whole, that laudable spirit of independence may not be said to be lost in this quarter ; and it is certain, that, looking back to former records, the number of poor receiving re- lief had been considerably greater than now. Fair. — There is scarce any tnarket or fair now held in the parish, if we except one which has not hitherto gained much notice, on the Saddlehill, in place of Sliach Market, formerly well known and much frequented. The new station not appearing to take well with the country, one has been got up in Huntly at the same time, to which the business formerly transacted at Sliach has been for the most part transferred, and from the additional accommo- dations and conveniences there afibrded, the change, it is believed, is not felt to be any grievance to the public. Inns. — The number of inns or other places for the sale of spi- rituous liquors in the parish is unquestionably too great, — there being no fewer than five. Fuel — Fuel is not abundant in the parish. There is a very small extent of peat moss, and that mostly of an inferior description. Neither is turf extensive. The tenants, however, in Lessendrum PYVIE. 315 have a servitude, or right of casting peats over some part of the extensive moss of Foudlin, in the parish of Forgue, where they have an abundant supply. English coal carted from the port of Banff or Macduff is also a good deal used. MiSCELLANBOUS ObSERVHTIONS. Looking to this parish as a whole, and marking the many changes which have taken place in it since the date of the former Statistical Account, it may safely be said, that it has not been behind others in the march of general improvement. Agriculture, in particular, has made wonderful progress, and that, not more, perhaps, in the greater extent of ground culti- vated, than in the superior management and direction, exhibit- ed in every department of farming details. Many bars to hus- bandry have been removed — new roads have been cut — mill mul- tures, at one time very heavy, amounting to one-seventeenth part when work was done, and to one-twenty-first independent of any work, have now for the most part been extinguished. The standard of comfort among the people has become elevated, their ideas less contracted, their knowledge and information more extensive, and their manners and habits more refined ; and it is hoped that, in matters still more important and sacred, improvements also have taken place. January 1840. PARISH OF FYVIE. PRESBYTERY OF TURRIFF, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JOHN MANSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. NanUf Boundaries, Sfc. — Fyvyn is the name given to this parish in most of the old charters and public writings connected with it. It is of Gaelic etymology, and derived from Fia Chein^ signifying Deer-hill. There is a hill in the parish which still goes by the name of Deer Hill, and the names of several of the estates and farms have also been clearly traced to Gaelic original. Fyvie is one of the largest parishes in Aberdeenshire. Its extreme length from north- east to south-west is 13 miles; and its extreme breadth 8 miles; 316 ABERDEENSHIRE. the extent of surface may be stated at 42 square miles. It lies about half-way between Aberdeen and Banff, and the public road between these two places passes through ihe breadth of it for se- veral miles. It is bounded on the east, by the parishes of Melhlick and Tarves ; on the south, by Meldrum and Daviot ; on the west, by Rayne and Auchterless ; and on the north, by Turriff and Montqu hitter. Topographical Appearances, — There are no mountain ranges in this parish ; smaller hills rise up in different parts of it, and in ge- neral there is a very pleasing variety of surface. The hill of Eas- tertown, towards the south boundary, is the principal elevation. It is connected with, and may be considered a continuation of the ridge of the hill of Bethelnie, in the adjoining parish of Meldrum, which is said to be the highest land over which the turnpike road passes between Edinburgh and Inverness. In the neighbourhood of the hamlet of Woodhead, there is a district which goes by the name of the " Windy Hills ;" a small ridge of hill, along the bottom of which on the north there is a tract of moss, and some patches of moss also on the south side. The ground in this quarter bears marks of having been for a long period under water. Beds of quartz similar to those found along the sea shore lie in every direction. The substratum of the hill consists of decomposed sandstone. No organic remains, however, so far as I have heard, have been found in the locality. Soil^ Climate^ Diseases^ Sfc, — There is great variety both of soil and climate in this parish. Along the banks of the Ythan, and more particularly in what is called the Howe of Fyvie, where the parish church and Fyvie Castle are situated, the soil is early and fertile. A substratum of gravel runs along the whole vale, co- vered in most places with a sharp rich loam. The climate here also is very mild, and the harvest about a week earlier than in the country generally in this quarter. In the north district of the pa- rish there are large tracts of moss. Here the climate is colder, and the soil in general poorer than in the middle and southern parts, and the crops used frequently to suffer a good deal from frosts; but, from judicious drainage and the selection of early seeds, much less damage has been sustained in this way than formerly was the case. The north-east is the quarter from which we have most frequent storms. In general, the air of the parish is pure and healthy ; and I am not aware of any disease to which it is pe- culiarly liable. By a table which I have subjoined under the head FYVIK. 317 Population, it will be seen that a fair proportion of the people have attained to an advanced age. Cases of fever occasionally break out, which the imprudent, though well meant attentions of neigh- bours to each other, often tend not a little to propagate. Hydrography. — The small river Ythan, which rises eleven miles westward in the parish of Forgue, and, after a farther easterly course of about twenty miles, falls into the sea at Newburgh, a village in the parish of Foveran, — divides this parish nearly into two equal parts. It possesses some statistical interest from the circumstance of pearls being frequently found in it. In the years 1762-03, some were found of considerable value. There are two salmon- fishings on this river, one at the mouth of it, the other at the Tillage of Ellon, about three miles from the coast. The Ythan is very slow and smooth in its course ; from the extensive system of drainage that now prevails, it rises more rapidly, and overflows its banks to a greater extent than formerly. From the point of its entering this parish, it runs through a long extent of flat ground, and, previous to certain recent improvements, thehauglis on each side were rendered in a great measure useless by it ; but, by form- ing a new channel, much valuable land has been reclaimed, partly above, through, and below the private grounds of Fyvie Castle, and for the farther accomplishment of this object extensive works are now in progress. The parish abounds with copious and salu- brious springs. Several of the wells still retain the names of those saints to whom they were dedicated in Popish times. On the south side of the hill of Eastertown, there is St Paul's well, which was long much resorted to by the people of this and the surround- ing parishes, and the favour of the saint sought in the usual man- ner, by casting a small oflering into the well, and a subsequent free use of the waters. In a field upon a farm on the estate of Min- nonie, which still retains the name of St John's Well, there are other two sainted springs, one dedicated to St John, the other to St Catharine ; and a little northward of where the parish church stands, there is St Peter's Well. None of these springs possess strong mineral qualities, and are remarkable only for the purity and sweetness of their waters. Mineralogy. — There is abundance of whinstonc in the parish well adapted for building. Upon the farm of Cammaloun, on the estate of Fyvie, there has also been found sandstone of the same quality and appearance as that obtained in the extensive quarry at Delgaty, in the adjoining parish of Turriff*. A few years ago, a 318 ABBRDEENSHIUE. quarry was opened there, but from the great dip of the stone, and the consequent difficulty of working it, a few blocks only were ex* tracted for a special purpose. A vein of this stone is supposed to run from the coast through the intermediate parishes. It is found in abundance in Turriff and Montquhitter and partially in the coast parishes of Gamrie and Aberdour. None has been met with, as I have heard, farther west than the point above referred to at Cammaloun. There is also at Petts, on the estate of Gight, a quarry of whinstone, valuable for the large slabs obtained from. it Some of these have been extracted 10 feet long by 2 broad, and 6 feet by 4. They are used in the country for various pur- poses, and are remarkable for strength and tenacity. Zoology and Botany. — The following is a list of wild animals which are to be found in this parish : — Of quadrupeds there are, roe-deer, hare, rabbit, fox, badger, polecat, stoat, weasel, hedge- hog, otter, water-rat, and all the common varieties of the smaller vermin, as the mole, rat, field-mouse, &c. Of land birds there are, Retident, Glead or common buzzard Magpie Kestril Hobby Merlin Sparrow-hawk Red do. Blue do. Common owl Homed do. White do. Screech do. Raven Carrion crow Jackdaw Ospr^ Falcon Norwegian do. Landrail Lapwing Cuckoo Fieldfare Redwing Of aquatic birds there are. Resident, Annual VitilanU. Heron Wild duck Common snipe Water-hen Water- rail Water-ousel Little grebe Sheldrake Common fresh water teal Golden-eyed garrot Hooded -crow Rook Grouse Blackcock Partridge Plover Pheasant Common pigeon Cushat do. Blackbird Thrush Bullfinch Chaffinch Annual VisiianU, Chimney-swallow Martin Sand-martin Swift Goatsucker Red wagtail Grey do. Yellow do. Wild goos^ Jack snipe Woodcock Green linnet Grey do. Bunting Yellow do. Black- headed do. Mountain sparrow House do. Skylark Redbreast Commou wren Gold-crested do. Blue cap or titmouse Long-tailed do. Marsh do. Occasional Visitants, Ringtailed buzzard Starling Greenfinch Goldfinch Mountain finch Siskin Snow flake. Occasional Visitants. Wild swan Scaup duck Oyster-catcher Bald-coot Diver (several Tarietiet) Widgeon (do.) Crossbill Sea-gull Kittiwake. FYVIE. 319 Among the rarer species of plants found in the parish are the following : — Hippuris Tulgaris Nepeta Cataria Veronica fniticulosa Genista nnglica Poa alpina Geranium sylvaticum Alchemilla Alpina ^-...i.^ pratcnitc Aoa^lis arvensis Hypericum humifusum cawulea elodes Mcnyanthes trifoliate Sonchus alpinus Campanula patula Gnaphulium sylvaticum Echium Tulgare ...._ rectum Viola palustrit Cnicus eriophorus Solaoum Dulcamara Orchis moscula Juneus glaucus Habcnaria viridis Cdchicum autumnalo albida Polygonum Persicaria Bryonia dioica Butomus umbellatui Quercun Ilobur Cerastium arvensc Juniperus communis Agrimonia Eupatoria Tctralix alba Potentilla reptens Salix alba ————— Tcma rupestris Rota tomcntosa — ^ frugilis PHious tpinosa glauca Spitaea Filiperidula Equisetum sylvaticum. Mentha lylvestris Among mosses are» Tortula muralis and tortuom^ Dicranum taxifolium^ and H. tindulatum. Among fungi are, Agarictis luteus^ nitiduSy confluensj semiglobatusy bulbosusy muscarinsj and procerus. The districts of the parish most favourable for the researches of the botanist are, the Braes of Gight, the Den of Rothie, and the old wood near Fyvie Castle. The most extensive plantation in the parish is that of the Den of Rothie, belonging to Mr Gor- don of Fyvie. It runs west from the hollow of Fyvie, a distance of about two miles and a half. It consists chiefly of fir, and pro- duces considerable revenue. In the parish altogether it has been calculated that there are 1735 acres in wood. A great part of this was planted by the late General Gordon of Fyvie, and his example has been followed by the present proprietor. A good deal has also been done in this way by the present Mr Leslie of Rothie, and by the former proprietor of Littlefolla ; but still there iare considerable tracts of hill laud, which in their present state are bad objects in the landscape, and are lost in a great measure as a source of revenue to the proprietors. It is much to be desir- ed that these were clothed with wood. There is every encourage- ment to this from the thriving state of all the plantations within the parish, and the higher value to which wood must soon at- tain, in consequenee of the rapid consumption of moss throughout the country, and the distance of this locality from the coast. 320 ABEUDEblNSHlRE. II. — Civil History. No separate account of the parish is known, previous to thac contributed by the late incumbent, the Rev. William Moir, to the old Statistical Account ; but various interesting notices, especial- ly in relation to the church, the priory, and the chapel of St Rule at Folia, are contained in the ^' Chartularies of Arbroath and Aberdeen," in the Advocates' Library of Edinburgh ; in the Char- tulary of Aberdeen, and Chaplain's Register, in the Library of King's College;* and in a vi^w of the Diocese of Aberdeen, ma- nuscript, in the Advocates' Library, supposed to be written by Sir Samuel Forbes of Foveran. Historical Events, — In the year 1296, the Castle of " Fyvin" appears to have been visited by Edward I. of England, in his progress through Scotland, f In 1395, the " Castel of Fivy," which must have then been a place of considerable strength, was defended by the *' gud lady" of Sir James Lindesay, though " as- segit straitly" by her undutiful nephew, Robert de Keith, son of the Marischal, till her husband came to her relief, and *^ quyte discumfyted" the said Robert and his adherents near the kirk of Bourty.J In 1644, Montrose took possession of Fyvie Castle; but not thinking it tenable against the superior force of Argyle, he retired to an eminence a little to the north-eastward, which he defended with great bravery for several days, and then marched by night to Strathbogie. The entrenchments are still distinctly to be seen, and the ground goes by the name of Montrose Camp. One of Argyle's encampments also on the lands of Ardlogie is still cal- led the Camp-fold. Papers and Charters, — Allusion has already been made to some documents in the Chartularies of Arbroath and Aberdeen, con- nected with the parochial history of Fyvie. Of these one relates to a perambulation held in 1325, in virtue of a brieve from King Robert Bruce, to fix the marches between the King's park of " Fyvin," and the lands of Ardlogie, belonging to the Abbey pf Arbroath. Several others refer to a dispute between the Bishop of Aberdeen and the husbandmen of Formartine, in 1382, about • Tor much that is contained in the department of Civil History, I have to ac- knowledge my obligations to Mr Taylor, laic librarian of King's College, and Mr Gordon of Fyvie, who kindly permitted a full search of the old ch&rtera and other papers connected with Fyvie Castle. t Edward I.'s Diary, Bannatvne Miscellany, Vol. i. p. 278. \ Wyntown'e Chron. ii. p. 371-37:3. FYVIE. 321 payment of the second tithes ; and a considerable number are oc- cupied with the affairs of the church and priory. At Fyvie Castle the series of charters is numerous and extensive, beginning towards the close of the fourteenth century, and descending in an almost unbroken chain to the present time. The original charter of Sir Henry Preston, obtained from Robert III. in 1390, is lost, but an official extract is preserved. There are also preserved an extract of the appointment of Alexander Seton, Lord Urquhart, to be President of the Court of Session, in 1593'; the charter of erection of the barony of Fyvie into a lordship, with all the privi- leges of a Peer of Parliament in his favour, in 1597; the sig- nature under the hand of James VI., with the commission under the Great and Privy- Seal constituting him Chancellor of Scotland in 1604; and the commission and patent of his creation as Earl of Dunfermline in 1605; with his appointment as Keep- er of Holy rood Palace in 1611. There is also an interesting set of about thirty documents relating to the public transactions be* tween 1640 and 1770, in which Charles, the second Earl of Dun- fermline, bore a part. Of these may be specified the Conference at Ripon, 1640; the General Assembly at St Andrews, 1642, to which Dunfermline was commissioner, and to which refers an order of the English Parliament to the Assembly; the instructions of King Charles I. to Dunfermline, the commissioner; two let- ters from the King to Dunfermline, and one from Dunfermline in reply, during the sitting of the Assembly ; the gift of the Privy Seal of Scotland to Dunfermline; the King's leaving Holden- by, 1647; the .negociations between Charles II. and the Com- missioners of the Estates of Scotland, at Breda, 1650; and the meeting of the Scottish Parliament, 1661. It may also be stated, that at Fyvie Castle, there is a considerable number of paintings, both by ancient and modern artists, and an excellent library, in the departments particularly of Scottish antiquities, history, bio- graphy, topography, and poetry, well stored. Proprietorship. — At one period the barony of Fyvie had the alias designation of Formartine, and the proprietorship can be sa- tisfactorily ascertained from an early date ; but the term Formar- tine is now applied to the second of the five divisions of the county of Aberdeen, while it also gives the title of Viscount to the Earl of Aberdeen. The ancient barony of 2'ormartyn or jprcmar- tyn formed three^fourths of this district, the other one-fourth con- stituting the barony of Belhelvie. The term Fyvie is now re- ABERDBEN. X 322 ABERDKKNSniRE. stricted to the parish, and that part of it, amouDting to a full third, which forms the property of Mr Gordon. The old ortho* graphy was " Fyvin," in correspondence with the etymology al- ready assigned. It seems to have been a royal park down ta the time of Robert II., and the castle was no doubt a royal hunting-seat. In 1325, mention is made of the *^ King's Park of Fyvin." Between 1370 and 1380, it was given by Robert II., to his eldest son, John, then Steward of Scotland, and af- terwards king by the title of Robert III. He soon resign- ed it in favour of his cousin-german. Sir James Lindesay. It was acquired by the Prestons in 1390; by the Meldrums about 1440; by the Setons in 1596; and by the present family, the Gordons, in 1726.* Eminent Characters. — Reginald le Chen or CAiyne.— This dis- tinguished person was proprietor of the lands of Ardlogy and Leuchendy, which he gave to the Priory of Fyvie, in connection with the Abbey of Arbroath, in 1285. He is generally styled PateTf to distinguish him from his son of the same name. He wa's Baron of Inverugie, Strabrock, &c. and Great Chamberlain of Scotland from 1267 to 1269. He was one of the Magnates Scotiae who concurred in settling the succession to the crown on Margaret of Norway, grand-daughter to Alexander III., in 1284. He was one of the barons who addressed Edward I. on the subject of a marriage between the young Queen of Scot- land and the Prince of Wales, with the view of uniting the king- doms, in 1289. He made his submission to Edward L, at Aber- deen, on the 17th July 1296, and his name is found in the Rag- man Roll. Of this ancient family of Cheyne of Inverugie came Henry le Chen or Cheyne, Bishop of Aberdeen from 1281 to 1329.+ James de Lindesay. — He was the ninth in descent of the fami- ly of Crawfurd, and is designed *< Dominus de Crawfurd et Bu* chan." He was nearly connected with the royal family, his mother being Egidia, sister to Robert II. He was present at the coronation of his uncle at Scone 1371 ; and he was a com- missioner to treat with the English in 1374 and 1381. About 1380, he became proprietor of Formartine, on the resignation of his cousin John, afterwards Robert IIL; and in 1382, was • Fyvie Charters. t Crawfurd's Lives, p 263. Documents and Records of the History of SeotUnd. Kec. Com. Vol. i. p. 175. 3 FYVIE. 323 involved in dispute with the Bishop of Aberdeen, about the pay- ment of the second tithes. In 1383, he quarrelled with Sir John Lyon of Glammis, Chamberlain of Scotland, and son- in-law of the King, and slew him in single combat. In 1385, his share of the French subsidy was 2000 livres. In 1388^ he fought with the Earl of Douglas at Otterbum. In 1395, as already mention- ed, he raised the siege of Fyvie Castle, which his lady had brave- ly defended. He died 1 397, without male issue, and was succeed- ed as Lord of Crawfurd by his cousin. Sir David Lindesay of Gleneskf while the Formartine property fell to his brother-in- law.* Sir Henry Preston, — He was of the family of Preston of Craig- millar, shared in the subsidy of 1385, and fought at Otterburn, in which battle he appears to have been the captor of Ralph Percy, as he had for his redemption a grant from Robert IIL, in 1390, of the lands and barony of Formartine, on the resignation of his brother-in-law. Sir James Lindesay. Sir Henry was a commis- sioner to treat with the English in 1390 and 1391, and he died about 1433^ leaving, according to the most probable accounts, two daughters co-heiresses, one of whom married Forbes of Tolqu- bon, and the other Meldrum of Fyvie, thereby endowing their husbands with these respective properties.*)- Sir George MeldrUm, — The Meldrums possessed Fyvie for about a century and a*half. Sir George, who lived about the middle of the sixteenth century, seems to have been the only one among them known in a public capacity. He is termed by Lesly ** ane vailyeant and wyse gentleman," while he relates that, in 1544, Sir George was sent by the Governor of Scotland on an embassy to the King of England, then personally engaged in the siege of Boulogne in France. His instructions were ^^ to commoune upon certane abstuonce, to the effect that Commissioners should meit, quhilk was aggreit qntill his returning in Ingland in the moneth of August thairaftir." % Alexander First Earl of Dunfermline. — He was third son of George Sixth Lord Seton, and brother of Robert first Earl of Winton^ and became proprietor of Fyvie by purchase from the Mel- drums in 1596. In early life he studied at Rome for the Church, but the establishment of the Reformed Faith in Scotland led him to turn his attention to the law. He was in great favour with James VI. • Douglas Peerage. Wyntoun. f Dougla»> Fyvie Charters. X History, English ed. 1830, p. 187. 324 ABERDEENSHIRE. and successively attained the dignities of Prior of Pluscardine in 1585; Lord of Session, by the title of Lord Urquhart, 1587 ; Pre- sident of the Court of Session in 1593 ; Treasury Commissioner, 159$; Peer of Parliament by the title of Lord Fyvie in 1698; Commissioner to treat of the Union with England in 1604 ; Lord High Chancellor of Scotland the same year ; Earl of Dunferm* line in 1606 ; and Commissioner to the famous Parliament of 1612, which confirmed the proceedings of the Glasgow Assembly of 1610, aud rescinded the act establishing Presbytery of 1592. He continued Chancellor till his death at Pinkie, near Mussel- burgh, in 1622, and was succeeded by his son, * Charles Second Earl of Dunfermline, — This nobleman took an active part in the transactions of the momentous period of our history from 1622 till his death in 1672. In 1639, he was twice sent from the Scottish Parliament to the King on missions of im- portance. In 1640, he was named a Commissioner to the treaty at Ripon, and in 1642, he was Royal Commissioner at the Gene«- ral Assembly of St Andrews. In 1649, he went abroad to Charles IL and accompanied him in his unsuccessful attempt to assert his rights in 1650. At the Restoration he was made a Prii'y- Coun- cillor; in 1669 an Extraordinary Lord of Session; and in 1671, Keeper of the Privy- Seal. He died in 1672, and was succeeded by his son Alexander, third Earl, who survived but a short time, and the property fell to his younger brother. -(• James Fourth Earl of Dunfermline, — He served in early life under the Prince of Orange in several memorable expeditions, but returned home on the accession uf James II. in 1684. He joined Dundee in 1689, and fought at Killiecrankie. He is celebrated by the Jacobite author of the " Praelium Gilliecrankianum," as *< Nobilis apparuit Gcrmilodunensis Cujus ill rebellcs stringebatur ensis Nobilis ct sanguine, nobilior virtute Regi dcTotissirous intus ct iu cute;" and his consequence and military reputation were such, that after the death of Dundee he would have received the command, but for the unwelcome commission produced by Colonel Cameron. He was outlawed in 1690, and died at St Germains in 1694 with- out surviving issue, and the Fyvie property passed by purchase in 1726 unto the present family. J • Crawfurd. Douglas. Fyvie Charters. t Ibid. X Dcuglas. Hogg's Jacobite Relics, Vol. i. p. 30, 191, 201 Fyvie Charters. FYVIE. 325 Giffht — The estate of Gight in this parish, now the property of the Earl of Aberdeen, formerly belonged to the maternal ancestors of the late Lord Byron. It was sold soon after the marriage of his mother, who was the heiress. The burial-place of the family of Gordon of Gight is in the parish churchyard. Formerly it was within the old church, and upon the new church being built, my predecessor acquainted the Honourable Mrs Byron of the altered situation in which it stood, as being now exposed, and put in her view the propriety of raising some protection around it, but with- out success. It is to be regretted that the application had not been renewed to the Noble poet himself, as, amid all his difficulties, it was one of such a kind as probably would have excited his in- terest, and both had the desired effect, and called forth from him some beautiful epitaph. About the middle of the churchyard there is a more humble grave, but one possessed of a certain romantic interest, that of the heroine of the pathetic Scotch ballad called ^' Tiftie's Bonnie Annie." The original tombstone having become decayed, Mr Gordon of Fyvie, a few years ago, caused a new one to be placed upon it, a fac-simile in every respect. The name of the unfortu- nate damsel, the story of whose love is so finely told in the ballad, was Agnes Smyth. The common pronunciation of the Christian name was Nannie, which in the ballad is farther metamorphosed into Annie. On one of the turrets of Fyvie Castle there is a stone figure of the renowned trumpeter sounding his horn towards Mill of Tiftie. * Z»anrf-OM?ner*.— The following are the present land-owners of the parish, with the names and valued rent of their several pro^ parties in Scots money : Lordship of Fyvie, Williaih Gordon, Esq. L.2618^ lOs. 8d.; lands of Gight, Crichie, and Minnonie, Earl of Aberdeen, L. 2005, 9s. 4d. ; lands of Rothie and Mid- aple, George Leslie, Esq. L.68d, 14s. 8d. ; lands of Muirs of Fyvie, Mrs Rose Innes, L. 350 ; lands of LittlefoUa, Alex- ander Gordon, Esq. L.155, 12s.; lands of Towie (Typor- tia), Gordon's Hospital, Aberdeen, L. 150 ; lands of Blackford (Typortia), John Forbes, Esq. L. 100; Lands of Monkshill, *. Ai A curious specimen of the form of tenure of other days, the following is sub- mitted, being the rent of William Smyth, the father of Annie, for 1672. <' Of maill three score sax bollis, of money one pound, of wadderis three, of lambis three, of ca- pounis three dosen, of hennis three dozen, of paittis one lait, one miln swyne, and one iton brew tallow.**— (Rental at Fyvie Castle and Account-book.) 3*2(3 ABERDEENSHIRE. Heirs of the late James Hay, Esq. L.80. Total valued rental, L.6145, 6s. 8d. Parochial Registers. — The early parochial registers are very imperfect, and do not extend far back. The 6rst entries of bap* tisms and marriages are in 1685, and the register of discipline commences in 1721. There are chasms in both till about 1760, from which period they are regular. The accounts of the collec- tions and disbursements for the poor are kept in Scotch money till the year 1763. While some of the entries are curious, the only point of public interest which could be gathered from them, is the great difference which they show to have taken place in the value of money within the last half century. Antiqfiities — Priory, — This was a cell of the Abbey of Ar- broath, said by Spotswood to have been founded along with a pa- rish church, by Fergus, Earl of Buchan, in 1179, whose donation of it to the Abbey was afterwards confirmed by his daughter, Margaret, Countess of Buchan, and wife of Sir William" Gumming.* In another account, the foundation is ascribed to King William the Lion ; and in a deed of date 1285, Reginald le Cheyne is said to have founded the religious house on the lands of Ardlogy, that is, the priory, while it appears from another deed, that he bestow- ed on this house his lands of Ardlogy and Leuchendy the same year.f The truth may be, that the house was originally founded by the Earl of Buchan ; that this was confirmed by King William; and that a re-endowment was made a century later by the Baron of Inverugie. The site of the priory was on the north bank of the Ythan, about a mile below the castle, and the outline of a part of it, said to have been the chapel, is still distinguishable on the crest of a gentle eminence, about 150 yards north-east of the present bridge of Lewes. In the memory of persons still living, a good part of the ruin was standing. In 1285, Reginald le Cheyne gave to the priory, as above-men- tioned, the lands of Ardlogy and Leuchendy ; and the same year, Henry, Bishop of Aberdeen, at the instance of the abbot and con- vent of Aberbrothock, granted a deed, ordaining that the emolu- ments of the vicarage of Fy vin, then vacant, should belong hence- forth to the priory, provided that 100 shillings were annually given to a perpetual chaplain, who should go about the parish and dispense the sacraments to the parishioners. J • Appendix to Keith's Bishops. f Char, of Arbroath, Adv. Lib. i. pp. 17.21. X Ibid. PYVIE. 327 In 1323, Albertinus was appointed to the cure and keeping of the House of Fyvin, and in 1325, a letter was addressed to him by Bernard, Abbot of Aberbrothock, for the maintenance of disci^ pline, and enjoining him with that view, <^ to hold a chapter regu- larly three times a week, on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, to correct the irregularities of his brethren ; to reform the divine worship on Sabbaths and festivals ; to keep the fasts according to the rule and canonical institution ; and if any of the brethren should be found drunken, noisy, abusive, rebellious, and disobe- dient, to reclaim him, if possible, by good counsel, otherwise to punish him by silence, and bread and water, in a place of confine* ment beyond the access of the seculars, and if still refractory, to transmit him, with a statement of his delinquencies, to the parent institution.'** In the chartulary of Arbroath, various notices are contained re- garding succeeding priors of Fyvie, and of leases granted of the lands which belonged to the priory. In 1470, one Alexander Mason is Prior, of whom it is stated that he exerted himself great- ly for the increase and repair of the buildings connected with the establishment ; that he rebuilt the chapel ; added offices, and en- closed the garden with a wall. The prior of Fyvie is frequent- ly mentioned in the Rolls of the Scottish Parliament. A little before the Reformation, the possessions of the priory are said to have been much dilapidated, though the lands which belonged to it in the neighbourhood rented L. 200 Sterling in 1792.f Parish Church. — The parish church of Fyvie, near to which the priory was situated, was dedicated to St Peter, the memory of which is still preserved in the name of Peterswell, in the immediate vicinity. William the Lion gave to the Abbey of Arbroath, the church of Fyvin, with the chapels, lands, tithes, oblations, pastu- rage, and other pertinents, between 1187 and 1200.| In 1382, the husbandmen of Formartine, including the whole parish of Fyvie, and part of Tarves, having incurred the penalty of excommunication by Adam, Bishop of Aberdeen, for non-pay- ment of the second tithes, were obliged to repair in a body to the Bishop^s chapel at Rayne, headed by John de Camera, bailie of Formartine, where, in presence of William de Spyny, cantor of Moray; William de Ormys, kirk-treasurer of Aberdeen; Wil- liam Garland, subdean of Moray ; William Lang, vicar of Fyvie, • Chartulary of Arbroath, Adv. Lib. ii. pp. 58, 60. t Fyvie, Chart. X Chart. Arbr. i. p. 118. 328 ABERDEENSHIRE* and Thomas de Nory, sheriff of Aberdeen ; having professed penitence, they were absolved by the Bishop, and solemnly sworn to obedience in future.* The patronage of the church of Fyvie, of course, belonged to the Abbey of Arbroath, in consequence of King William's gift, and in the chartulary of that establishment, there are accounts of several presentations to it. In 1616, Alexander, Earl of Dun- fermline, had a charter from James I. uniting the rectorage and vicarage of Fyvie into one benefice, and conferring on him the advocation, donation, and right of patronage of the parish church • since which time, the patronage has gone with the Fyvie pro- perty.f Chapel of St Rule at Folia or Folla-ride. — This was founded at Folia or FoUach, a Celtic term, signifying a place surround- ed with mosses, in 1376, by Adam Pyngil, burgess of Aberdeen^ with consent of Marjory Blackvatyr, his spouse, in connection with the cathedral church of Aberdeen. It was endowed with the lands of Folethrowle, which the founder acquired in 1364 from Hugh de Ross, Lord of Philorth, and brother of William Earl of Ross, and with the mill and multures of Folethrowle, and the founda- tion was confirmed by a charter of Robert II. in 1379. It is stated by Orem in his description of the chanonry; &c that in his time the vestiges of the chapel were to be seen in the " town-land'* of Meiklefolla ; and that the chaplainry having been annexed to the King's College, the heritor paid L. 40 Scots of feu-duty to the College for the said land. ^ Besides the religious houses already mentioned, there were also in different directions, and towards the extremities of the parish, other chapels, connected, no doubt, either with the church or priory. The vestiges of one are still to be seen on the farm of Eastertown, beside St Paul's well, already noticed ; of another on the farm of Fetterletter, on the estate of Gight, and probably there was one on the farm of St John's Well, on the land of Min<- nouie, although no traces of it now remain. ^ Chaplainry of St Ninian^ in St Nicholas* Church of Aberdeefu — This was connected with Fyvie by endowment and patronage* In 1490, 'William Meldrum, who became patron, granted by charter to the altar of St Ninian, and to Robert Leys, the chap- Iain, a perpetual annuity of L. 2 from his lands of Waterton • Chartulary of Ab<*rdcen, Advocates' Library. f' Fyvie Chart. I Description of Chanonry, &c. Edin. 1791, p. 87. FYVIE. 329 if Ellon, L. 1, Os. 8d. from the lands of Ordefork, and L. 2 from tenements in the Gallowgate and Green of Aberdeen. — (Fyvie Chart.) In this parish, indeed, the external machinery for the sup- port of*the Roman Catholic faith, appears to have been very com- plete, as there had, at least, been six or seven places of worship, or other Popish endowments connected with it. While, of late years, we have experienced a share of the great benefits of the scheme of Church Extension, on which the Reformed Presbyte- rian Church of Scotland has now so happily entered, on the whole, as compared with former times, we have to remark a serious Church Contraction here. The earliest Protestant incumbent of Fyvie whom we have seen mentioned is Mr George Sharpe, 1651 to 166a Since that pe- riod the following have been ministers : — Mr William Jaffray, from 1654 to 1676; Mr George Seton, 1678 to 1684; Mr George Dalgardno, 1685 to 1717; Mr Robert Hay, 1st May 1718 to 1st July 1719; Mr Thomas Scott, 13th July 1720 to 3d July 1748; Mr William Moir, 27th April 1749 to 19th March 1794; Mr John Falconer, 3d December 1794 to 19th December 1828. John Manson, the present incumbent of the parish, was ordained July 7th 1829. Burgh of Ft/vie. — In course of the recent search among the papers at Fyvie Castle, a rather interesting discovery has been made, bearing upon the early history of the parish, of certain do- cuments relative to a burgh of Fyvie. Tradition concerning it bad been lost, nor can the site of it now be distinctly fixed, but from an early period mention is made of it. In the Brieve of King Robert Bruce in 1325, for fixing marches, already referred to, the rights of the burgesses of " our burgh of Fyvie,*' in the peat-moss of Ardlogie, are directed to be ascertained ; and the finding of the assize refers to the privileges of these burgesses in the time of Reginald le Chen, between 1250 and the end of the century. From 1390 downwards, the " Villa seu burgum de Fyvie," with its customs, tolls, and burgh-mails, is regularly found in the char- ters of the Fyvie property. It has been supposed to have been a royal burgh, biit no charter of erection is known, though, from the circumstance of the Fyvie property continuing a royal demesne till towards the close of the fourteenth century, and the king being thus the immediate superior of the burgh, perhaps it may have some claim to the above distinction. It, however, unquestionably became a " Burgh of Barony," of which the proprietors of Fyvie 530 ADl^UDRENdHIRE. were superiors. There exists a charter granted to Alexander third Earl of Dunfermline in 1672 or 1673, reciting in the pre- amble, that his father, and grandfather, and their predecessors, had the privilege of keeping a weekly market on Thursday, and three annual fairs on the lands of the manor-place of Fyvie, one on Fastings -even, called Shrove* Tuesday ; another on St Peter's day, the first Tuesday of July ; and the third on St Magdalene's day, the last Tuesday of July ; — stating that Fyvie is at least twelve miles distant from any royal burgh, and a convenient place for trade and merchandize ; — ratifying all previous gifts, and erecting the Lordship of Fyvie into ** ane free Burgh of Barony,*' to be called the ** Burgh of Barony of Fyvie," and granting power to the said Earl and his heirs, to nominate and choose bailies and magistrates for the government of the burgh ; — to possess and use ^^ane mercat cross; ' and to admitmasons, baxters, brewers, skinnersy and all other craftsmen and artificers, to hold the above weekly market and three annual fairs ; and for punishing and imprisoning malefactors and transgressors of the laws ; to have and make a ^^ tolbuith" in the said town ; and to call, accuse, and execute jus* tice on all committers of murder, and theft, and other crimes, within the said burgh limits; and annexing the said burgh of barony of Fyvie to the lordship and barony of Fyvie in all time coming.* The weekly market and annual fair on St Magdalene's day have been long in desuetude, but the other two annual fairs are still re- gularly held and well frequented, as will be afterwards noticed. \ Ancient and Modem Mansion-Hotises, — Gipht Castle. — This ancient seat of the family of Gight is now a ruin, but, with its sur« rounding scenery, a very beautiful and picturesque one. It stands on the north bank of the Ythan, about four miles and a-half east of the parish church. The valley of the river on both sides is clothed with fine wood ; on the north bank with natural wood of every variety of foliage ; while the associations connected with the spot, as having belonged to the family of one who, during his short career, shed around him such a bright display of genius and fancy, (for hinoself and for the sake of mankind, it is to be deplored, so unhappily directed,) give to it an additional interest. Fyvie Castle,, — This extensive and venerable pile stands on the north-east bank of the Ythan, within a fine park, with the sur- rounding eminences on every side covered with beautiful and thriv- ing wood. It has been built at different periods, but the original • Fyvie Chart. 4 FYVIB. 331 m 8 meter. 9 A.M. 9 P.M. 41.64 42.56 40.78 42.53 42.41 4332 April, 44.13 44.36 May, 49.58 48.54 June, 54*63 52.33 July, 57.77 56.25 Aug. 57.12 56.80 Sept. 56.80 54.90 Oct. 49.35 49.29 Nor. 45.14 47.26 Dice. 44.19 45 90 1834. Barometer. 9 A.M 29.36 29.79 29.88 30.16 29.91 29.80 29.97 29.77 29.95 29.77 29.79 30.05 9 P.M. 29.45 29.76 29.92 30.15 28.27 29 79 29.96 29.77 29.95 29.99 29.78 30,07' Rain guage. Gauffe. .57 .52 .76 1.93 2.80 .53 1.65 1.77 3.76 1.63 1.49 1835. Thermo. Barometer. meter. 9 A.M. 9 P.M. 39.35 41.64 40.10 4a78 41.48 41.35 44.30 4a60 47.32 46.32 5a03 50.53 55.87 53.83 56.32 55.45 54.43 54.43 47.51 47.83 44.60 46.50 40.45 41.77 9 a.m. 2a80 29 40 29.71 29.97 29.70 29.39 29.54 29.75 2a94 9 p.m. 29.80 29.35 29.73 2a96 30.22 29.^ 2a59 29.74 29.97 gu^ge. Gauge. 1.98 1.67 1.52 2.14 1.60 1.42 1.97 1.21 a 19 4.55 2.44 1.47 21.78 in. In. 25.11 1836. Thermometer. 9 A. M. 9. p. M. January, February, March, April, May, June, July, August, - September, October, - November, December, Baromcfter. 9. A. M. 9. p. M. 38.67 37.31 40.91 43.73 49.90 5a 10 54.96 54.87 50.93 47.64 41.66 39.77 39.93 89.72 41.16 41.30 4a90 51.06 53.54 52.25 51.03 48.19 43.23 40.32 29.49 29.57 29.24 29.64 30.18 29.63 29.67 29.82 29.70 29.55 29.31 29.52 29.49 29.50 2915 29.63 30.21 29.63 29.71 29.86 29.71 29.57 29.34 29.54 Rain Gauge. Gauge. 1.93 2.76 2.94 1.96 .54 1.66 a97 1.28 3.96 4.43 4.47 a95 In. 3a85 The climate is variable, but has been much improved in conse- quence of extensive drainage. Within the last thirty years, the crops, partly from the improved state of the land, and partly from earlier sorts of grain being sown, come to maturity from ten days to two weeks earlier than formerly. Hydrography, — Peterhead was much resorted^ to as a watering- place for a period of two centuries. The principal mineral well is a chalybeate, situate in the town, near the sea ; there are, how- ever, other wells near the town, especially one a little to the north of it, which is much resorted to in summer; these are also strong chalybeates. Dr Laing found upon analysis that the mineral waters of Peterhead held in solution aerated and muriated iron^ * In reference to the want of any obftenrations of the atmosphaical prcasure in tb« months of June, July, and August 1835, it may be mentioned that the barometer kept at the Light-house was then broken, and was not replaced by aaother durii^ that time. PETERHEAD. 347 muriate of lime, Glauber salt, common salt, and were impregnated with fixed air. Under proper regimen the mineral waters of Peter- head were found by Dr Moir to be deservedly in repute for gene- ral debility, disorders of the stomach and bowels, flatulencies and indigestion, nervous complaints, &c. In almost every part of the parish, but especially in Stirlinghill and Blackhill, there are copious springs, strongly impregnated with iron, which are found to possess the same medicinal qualities as those in Peterhead and its vicinity. The cool and salubrious air on the sea coast, the excellent accom- modation for sea-bathing, and the variety of mineral springs, ren- dered Peterhead, in former times, the resort of invalids during the summer months* Until lately the town of Peterhead was not supplied with good spring water ; but the country part of the parish has always been well supplied with spring water of excellent qua- lity. The Ugie is the only river in the parish. There is an excel- lent stone bridge of two arches over the Ugie, at the distance of two miles from the town of Peterhead. This bridge was built in 1686, by virtue of an Act of Parliament, at the joint expense of the shires of Aberdeen and Banff, and is still in good repair. The tide off Peterhead flows from Rattrayhoad, in the parish of Crimond, south and south-east, and ebbs north and north-west. During spring-tides it runs three and a-half miles an hour. There are, however, considerable variations, in consequence, it is sup- posed, of the adjoining headlands. The sea at Peterhead is very salt, and the temperature is never so low as in friths, or in the vicinity of large rivers. Geology and Mineralogy. — The whole of the parish of Peter- head is upon primitive rock. In the Stirlinghill, Blackhill, and Hill of Cowsrieve, the granite or syenite rises to the surface. Along the coast, and in other parts of the parish, it is covered with clay, supposed to be diluvial, and other matters to a greater or less depth. Upon the Stirlinghill, the granite rises to the sur- face, ^r nearly so, over an extent of from 100 to 150 acres. In every place where the syenite or granite is laid bare, imbedded masses, veins or dikes of primitive trap, gneiss, quartz, and com- pact felspar are alternate with, and run through it. In some cases one-half of a block is granite and the other primitive trap in com- plete cohesion, and often passing into each other. At the old Castle of Boddam, the rock is separated by a fissure or chasm, one side of which is granite and the other primitive trap. This chasm runs east and west, the granite being on the south and the 348 ABBUDEENSHIBE. (rap OD the north, with a considerable angle to the horizon. Near the Buchanness Lighthouse, there is a pretty extensive bed of homstone*porphyry, also a rock resembling clinkstone-porphyry. The rock along the coast, from Buchanness to the mouth of the Ugie, may be seen at low-water mark, and consists of granite, primitive trap, syenite, gneiss, compact felspar, felspar-porphyry, and quartz, variously associated with each other. The bed or cleavage of these rocks, as they lie in the quarry, is generally from east to west ; and in granite, the laminae of which it is com- posed, (and it appears generally to be so composed,) are to be seen in the same direction.* The beds of pebbles along the shore, and the boulders are v6ry extensive, and embrace fragments of rocks and minerals which are seldom to be found upon the land in the neighbourhood. Agates and jasper are to be found ; flints are also abundant, and are not unfrequently found, on being broken, to contain impressions of sea-plants, shells, &c. The Meethill is covered with a deep mass of diluvial clay ; at the brickwork, which is about fifiy yards from the beach, and where the clay has been cut to the depth of from thirty to forty feet, it exhibits various strata, which appear to have been deposited at diSerent times, from their diSerences in quality and colour ; some of the deposits are not above an inch in depth, while others are several feet. The skeleton of a bird was lately dug out of the clay here, at the depth of 25 feet from the surface, and about 15 or 20 feet above the level of the sea. From the Meethill, embracing the lands of Clerkhill, Grange, Windmill of Peterhead, Blackhouse, Balmoor, Mountpleasant, and Alehousehill, to Downiehills, the sur&ce is covered to a considerable depth with clay, mixed in some parts with rounded pebbles. . The links of Peterhead, part of the braes between the links and brickwork, and some fields near the Kirk- town, form an exception, being covered with sea-sand to a con- siderable depth. Below the sand there is generally clay, but in some instances moss and vegetable remains. The Stirlinghill is separated from the hill of Invernettie by a deep morass. There are very few flints on Stirlinghill ; but on the hill of Invernettie and the Blackhill, the surface is almost covered with rounded flints, many of which, on being broken, are found to contain animal and vegetable remains, chiefly the impressions of sea-shells. These shells embrace considerable variety of the Echini family, occasion* * Professor Jameson, who, we are informed, examined this parish some years ago, tnct wiUi molybdsna in the granitic rocks of Peterhead. 3 PETERHEAD. 349 ally entire, but more frequently only small portions of the impres- sions of these shells are found. Single spines frequently occur, and are distinctly marked. The Inoceramus, Pectens, and Tere- bratulae are very abundant. In the parish of St Fergus, near the mouth of the Ugie, in the limestone, the Camua ammonis and mussels of a distinct variety from those now existing are found* The same range of high ground, which commences at Stirlinghill, passes into the parishes of Cruden, Longside, and Old Deer, and along the whole range, which rests upon granite, or other primitive rock, the same kinds of flint have been found containing remains, chiefly of shells. The locality of these flints has attracted the attention of geologists. In the granite quarries there is, in the fis*- sures of the rock, gravel mixed with oxide of iron ; and in situations where the soil is gravel, or clay mixed with gravel, there is an incrustation 8{ iron between the soil and subsoil, — the latter is in consequence rendered impervious to water until the incrustation be destroyed. Extensive fields of granite are found in a state of decomposition. When these fields are laid open as gravel pits, the vertical section has much the appearance of sound glranife in the quarry, exhibit- ing the outlines of blocks of various sizes, divided from each other by fissures filled with clay and other matters, coloured by oxide of iron. Upon examining some of these apparent blocks, parts of them are found to be in an undecomposed state, while the other parts are found from one gradation of decomposition to another, until the decomposition is so complete as to form a mass of clay and gravel, fit for forming a soil capable of cultivation. In some cases the decomposed granite is almost white, while in others it is of a darkish red. A considerable part of the parish of Peter* head had been covered with peat moss, consisting chiefly of the roots and branches of trees, which compose the first stratum ; the seeond stratum is not unfrequently composed of the coarser grasses ; the third of heath, and the upper of fog. The remains of wood found in the mosses are, oak, alder, birch, &c ; and there are also masses of bog-iron ore. At no very remote period, the low grounds, commencing at the sea near Buchanhaven, had been covered with moss. This moss had nearly joined the one called Megg's Moss, which again passed through the lands of Auchty- gall and Collielaw, and joined the moss of Faichfield in the parish of Longside. Excepting in those places already mentioned which are covered with diluvial or alluvial clay, the other parts of the parish. 350 ABBRDBENSHIRR. had been covered with heath or moss, and the subsoil had been separated from the soil bv the iron incrustation already described. In these situations th^ soil is various, being in most cases clay and gravel, sometimes the one and sometimes the other predominating, arising chiefly from the decomposition of granite and flint inter- mixed with remains of moss. The deposits of gravel, flint, and clay, mixed with rounded stones or pebbles on the hills, have evi- dently resulted from the action of water, as they exhibit all the appearances of similar deposits on the shores ; and these deposits are separated from one another by incrustations of iron, lying at various angles^ and not uufrequently inclosing the deposits of gra- vel, &C. by curved lines. The matters of the separated strata are often very different, as clay, gravel, flint, &c. The plants which had grown on the mosses %nd moors were chiefly heath, bent, and the coarser grasses. Upon penetrating, liowever, into the subsoil, and mixing it with the top soil, after complete drain- age, clover and some of the better sorts of grass make their ap- pearance. Zoology. — Notwithstanding the very little shelter from wood, there is considerable variety 'of wild animals found in this parish. The domesticated animals are not diflerent from those found in other parts of the country. Among the feathered tribe, the com- mon hen, duck, goose, turkey, peacock, and pigeon, are reared in abundance. Among quadrupeds there are swine, sheep of the Cheviot and Highland breeds, and occasionally goats, as well as many varieties of the dog and cat Of the larger animals there are horses, and black-cattle of the Aberdeenshire breed. These last are well known as the cattle of the district, and have been long esteemed for various good qualities as the polled Buchan breed. The Teeswater or short-horned breed has lately been in- troduced. The long-horned are occasionally to be seen, and many Orkney and Shetland ponies and black-cattle are imported^ The latter are generally fed, and the beef is superior to that of the na- tive breeds. Asses are occasionally employed for the carriage of milk and other purposes. Of game, the bare, rabbit, moorfowl, partridge, and snipe are the most common. The following list of birds, killed within fifteen miles of Peter- head, and other animals found in its vicinity during the last ten years, has been kindly furnished by Adam Arbuthnot, Esq. Prepar- ed specimens of most of these have been preserved in Mr Arbuth- . not's museum,— a large collection of natural curiosities and speci- PETKUHEAD. 351 mens in Natural History and mineralogy, which is obligingly shown to visitors and strangers by the proprietor. Quadrupeds found in the parish and neighbourhood. Cerfus capreoltts Mustela martes. Vespertilio murinus Urtut mde» l«epus timidus Felis-catus ferus CanUmlpei cunioulua Lutra Tulgaris Talpa Europea* AMPHIBIOUS. Mustela putorius Mu8 rattus Rana bufo erminea decnmanus temporaria. ▼ulgitfis Land Birds. Falco ha1i»tU8 Ardea stellaris Sturnus vulgaris palumbarius butao Cinclus aquaticus Cuculus csnorus Rallus aquaticus Picus major tiDnuncuIus Tringa morinella Columba ^nas cyanea ▼anellus Phasianus Colchicus Strix bubo cioerea Caprimulgus Europsus oCus Cbaradrius hiaticula Motacilla rubetra flammaa Tetrao Scoticus rubioola bracbyotos perdix troglodytes Lanius eseubitor Hirundo apus regulus colliirio rustica trochilus ConrusGoraz urbica alba fnigilegus riparia flava comix Turdus rousicus boarula monedula roerula nibicola pica pilaris Alauda arvensis Soolopax gaUinago Upupa Epops pratensis arcuata Loxia curvirostra Fringilla Coelebs limoaa chloris Emberiza miJiaris rustieola nivalis gallinula ■ RallUs crex citrinella Fnlieaatrm Musieapa atricapilla Cbaradrius morinellus chloropus Parus OBruleus pluvialis Ardea nugor Water Birds. AnaacygDus Pelecanus graculus Alca arctica boaebas bassanus AUe ereoca Col3rinbui nigricans Hfematopus ostralegus tadorna minutus Mergus merganser feffiaa glacialis serrator ftnelope septentrionalis Larus rissa dangula rinffuia grylle ridibundus acuta crepidatus marila Troile canus molliaaiina marmoratU8*f* Sterna hirundo ProceUaria pelagica Alcapica minuta Fidaeanus carbo torda Fishes. — The east coast of Scotland abounds with great variety offish ; and, as Peterhead has been long known as an excellent fish- ing station, the following attempt has been made to classify those fishes which have been found off the coast of Peterhead, according to the arrangement of Cuvier. * An Albino specimen was lately found in this neighbourhood, -f Two Torieties of spotted Northern diver family, Colymbus. 352 ABERDEENSHIRE. ACANTHOPTERYGII. Sdnio trutto Familj 1. Pckcid^ou fiu-io. MuUut surmuletus. Fitnilj 5. CiupxiiDi Fora. 2. BvccM Loucata. ClupcA hArenguc Cottuf Korpius pUchardus. Trigla lyra. Ordbk IV. MALACOP* Family 7. ScoMBcaiDiB. OaDsa III. MALACOP. TERYGII APODE& Sdettfldoi tuberculatuiw Familj 8. Duccnou. Cydoptema Inmpaa. Scombn* aoombrus Xiphias gladiut. Family 12. GosioiDis* Anarchicbaa lupua Blcnniua gunnellua Zoarcea Tiyiparua Callionymua Ijrra* Family lo. Pkctoealcs P»> DICULATI. Lopbius piflcatoriufl. Family 14. LABaiD^s. Crenilabrus tinea. Ordke II. MALACOP. TERYGII ABDOMI. NALES. Family 2. Esocidjb. Esox belone lucius. Family 4. Salmonidjb. Sal mo salar TERYGII SUB-BRA- CHIATI. Family 1. Gadidjb. Morrbua Tulgaru o^lefinuf Merlangu^ carbonarius Tulgaris pollacbius Motella mustela tricirrhatus Brosmus Tulgaria Lota moWa Gadus barbatus. Pam. 2. PLKnaoMrcTiDiB. Platessa valgaria limaoda Hippoglossus Tulgaria Rhombus maximus Solea vulgaris Margaretta ▼ariegatus AiiouiLLiroaMBa. Anguilla Tulgaria oooger Aromodytes tobianua. OEDca V. LOPHO- BRANCHIL - Hippocampus. SccoMD Scans. OaDCR II. CHONDROP. TKRYGII with fiied BrancbiK. Family 1. Sklacbu or PLAGI08«)]tk Raia clavata hatis Squalus acanthius Comubicua glaueus. Crustacea. OaDKE IL MALACOSTRACA. Craogon yulgaris (Lino.) Family Cavckridu. Family PAOoau. Cancer pagurus Pasurus Bembardos monias Fanuly Oxtehtnchi. Family Astacini. IJthodes maia Astacus marinus Maia sp. 4. Cancer araneua fluviatilis Botany. — The plants to be found in this parish are not of very rare kinds ; there is, however, considerable variety. * Conchology. — The following is a list of shells found on the shores of Peterhead and the neighbouring shores of St Fergus, which were submitted to Dr Fleming of King's College, Aber- deen, and named by him, as stated in the Statistical Account of St Fergus. Fusus comeus Rostellaria pes-pelecani Patella vulgata — — Isevis Helix arbustonim Turbo littoreus Nerita littoralis NaticA nitida Trocbus umbilicatus - - zisipbinus — -- striatus Cvpraea Europea Nassa incrassata Purpura lapillus fiuccinum undatum Fusus antiquus Pecten varius - sinuosus Anomia ephippium Myltius eflulis, cnusatus Modiolus Tulgaris Anodon Anatinus Cardium edule Mactra solida Donax trunculua Amphidesma prismatica Cyprina lalandica Venus gallina Venerupis pullastra Virginea var. m- Balanus communis Vermilia vermicularia Heterodiaca rerersa Alasmadon margaritifenim Chiton marginatua The shores of the parish being rocky, are covered with weed or ware to the low water-mark ; and beyond it, as far as the bottom of the sea can be seen through the water, there are forests, if they * Vide List in reteniU, PETERHEAD. 353 may be so designated, of submerged algae. These are so different in iheir external characters, and of such variety, that a wide field is presented for investigation and classification. A few of those best known and most abundant may be named, viz. Fucus vesiculosus Fucus digitatus Fucim pinnatifidus •^>— nodosuB ...-i-» sacchariniM Ulya plana serratus • esculentus — »- bulbosus palmatus J^yiffu-^ Of these there are many species growing on the links and by the sides of dikes. The Agaricus campestrisf or common mushroom, is very abundant, and is gathered for catsup sauce. Lichens and musci are also to be found in great variety upon the rocks and shrubs, and in the mosses ; and afford an ample field for investigation to those already acquainted in some degree, or desirous of becoming acquainted, with this branch of natural history. II. — Civil History. Peterhead is mentioned in various acts of the Scottish Parlia* ment The original charter of erection has been published. It is a very distinct deed, and shows the commencement of the burgh of barony, and the vocations of the original inhabitants. Account of the Parish. — The late Dr William Laing, of the Episcopal chapel of Peterhead, published, in 1793, *^An Ac- countof Peterhead^ its mineral wells, air, and neighbourhood." The Statistical Account of Dr Moir was published in 1795. In 1815, the late James Arbuthnot, Junior, Esq. published ** An Historical Account of Peterhead, from the earliest pe- riod to the present time, comprehending an account of its trade, shipping, commerce, and manufactures ; mineral wells, baths, &c. with an Appendix containing a copy of the charter of erection," &C In 1819, Mr Peter Buchan published ^^ Annals of Peter- head,'' containing the same information as Mr Arbuthnot's account, with such additional matter as he had been able to collect Historical Notices. — The Earls Mariscball had their chief resi- dence at Inverugie Castle, on the opposite side of the Ugie, in the parish of St Fergus ; but a large portion of the parish of Pe- terhead was embraced in their estates. It would be out of place here to enter into a historical account of that ancient family, which will be found in the general history of Scotland. The founder of Peterhead was also the founder of Mariscball College, Aberdeen. The last Earl forfeited his estates in 1715, in consequence of his adherence to the iamily of Stuart. The Pretender landed at Pe- terhead in December 1715. The inhabitants were attached to AJBERDBBN. Z 354 ARFRDECNSHIRE. the Marischall family, and in general embraced their views ; and, in consequence, they on that occasion espoused the claims of the house of Stuart, There have been six Presbyterian ministers since the Revolu- tion, viz. Mr Guthrie, Mr Brown, Mr Farquhar, Mr Walker, Dr George Moir, and the present incumbent, Mr Donald. Two of them, Mr Brown and Mr Farquhar, left Peterhead, and were set- tled, the former at Belhelvie, and the other at Chapel of Garioch. Land-owners — The present heritors of the parish are, the Go- vernors of the Merchant Maiden Hospital of Edinburgh ; Mrs Gordon of Boddam and Sandford ; George Skelton of Invemet- tie Lodge; George Arbuthnot of Invernettie; William Arbuth- not of Dens and Downie-hills ; Dr Cruickshank of Little Cock- law ; George Mudie of Meethill ; Thomas Arbuthnot of part of Mecthill; James Sangster, part of Invernettie; Kenneth M4n* tosh, part of Invernettie; Charles Brand, part of Invernettie; William Donaldson of Cowhills ; William Gamack, part of Inver- nettie; Robert Arbuthnot of Mount Pleasant and Blackhouse; Greorge Walker of Balmoor ; Mrs Walker's Trustees, part of Bal- moor; Robert Walker, Senior, Grange; Robert Walker, Junior, Richmond ; Alexander Stuart, Coplandshill ; the Heirs of James Hutchison of Richmond ; the Trust- Disponees of Mrs Hay Mu- die of Meikle Cocklaw ; the Trustees of the late Peter Hay of Hayfield ; James Shirras of Berryhill ; Robert Mavor of Windy- hills ; the Heirs of James Reid of Ellishill ; and Roderick Gray, part of Blackhill. Antiquities, — There are two old castles in the parish, Ravens- crag and Boddam. Ravenscrag, in the barony of Torterston, is said to have belonged to the family of Keith, who afterwards acquired the lands of Inverugie by marriage. It is a fine ruin and specimen of an old baronial castle. The walls are in some places eleven feet thick. It is supposed to have been built in the eleventh or twelfth century. Boddam Castle was the residence of a branch of the Marischall family : but it is not so ancient as Ra- venscrag. Within the last twenty years various antiquities have been discovered within the parish of Peterhead and its immediate neighbourhood. On the estate of Cairngall, in the adjoining pa- rish of Longside, two oak coffins or chests were discovered on re- moving a tumulus of moss. One of them was entire, the other was not. They had been hollowed out of solid trees, and measured each seven feet by two feet. The sides were parallel, and the PETERHKAD. 355 ends were rounded, and had two projecting knobs to facilitate their carriage. The bark of the trees of which they had been formed remained on them, and was in the most perfect state of preserva- tion. No vestige of bones was found in either of them. They had been covered over with slabs of wood, and lay east and west, which indicated they had been used as co£Sns ; but the absence of bones or other human remains is difficult to be accounted for. In the parish of Cruden, in a little hill, about four feet below its apex, a stone crypt or sarcophagus was discovered, containing a consi- derable portion of two human skeletons ; the one that of an adult, the other of a young person, perhaps of twelve or thirteen years of age ; and also part of the skeleton of a dog ; two clay urns, (a larger and a lesser one,) rudely ornamented with bars or hoops scratched around the outside of them ; seven flint arrow points ; two flint knives, (one of them considerably worn) ; a polished stone about four and one-fourth inches in length, neatly drilled through its four comers, and slightly concave on the one side, and convex on the other. It is probable the polished stone had been applied to the centre of the bow, to secure a more accurate discharge of the arrow. A neck chain and battle-axe were dug out of a tumu- lus near to the place in the parish of Cruden, where it is supposed that Malcolm IL and Canute fought a severe battle, and where many tumuli were formerly to be seen. The neck chain is form- ed of jet and amber. The jet beads retain their original polish. The lower bead measures about four inches, the others from two and a half inches to one inch. These beads were separated from one another by little formless masses of amber, covered with a brown crust ; but otherwise the amber was unchanged, unless that it may have been more brittle. The battle-axe is formed of black flint. It is about seven inches long, and is less heavy than those generally found ; most of which are formed of granulated stones, and are larger and weightier than the one above alluded to. The necklace had no doubt adorned the person of some Scan- dinavian chief. A pewter flagon, of no inelegant shape, and capable of holding nearly a Scotch pint, was discovered in cutting a deep water course through a peat bog. The metal was considerably oxidized. From the form of the flagon antiquaries suppose it to have been in use about the time of James IV. or V. of Scotland. A small shot of malleable iron was dug out near the base of Ravenscrag Castle. It is one inch and three-quarters in diameter, and is the second 356 ABERDEENSHIRE. one found near the same place. It is supposed that it had been discharged from a wall-piece, and that the wall-piece had been fired from the Castle of Inverugie, on the opposite side of the ri- ver. These antiquities are noticed here in consequence of hav- ing been investigated by Mr Arbuthnot, and a record of them preserved in his musuem. Upon the top of Meethill, about a mile and a quarter from Pe- terhead, there was a tumulus which had been allowed to remain for ages untouched ; and tradition assigned to it the place where justice had been administered, and where the ashes of some chief reposed. The inhabitants of Peterhead received the promise of a perpe- tual right to this tumulus, and about a quarter of an acre of ground around it, in order to build a tower upon it, in honour of Earl Grey and his political principles. In digging -for a foundation a stone crypt was found, containing an urn, or what had been used as such, very dififerent in shape, however, from common urns, be- ing long and broad, and much in the shape of a bowl or dish. Around the mouth, it was ornamented *by a band of circular im- pressions, in depth nearly one-eighth of an inch, and in field ra« ther larger than a shilling. The human remains found were very few, being only a fragment or two of the leg or thigh bones, and part of the lower jaw, with the teeth still adhering. These re- mains were placed in a glass case, and exhibited to the public, at one shilling a head, and the proceeds applied towards the expense of the tower ; which, however, still remains in an unfinished state. On the north side of the Den of Boddam, in a deep morass, there are various pits, generally known by the name of the Picts Camps ; but they are with greater probability supposed to have . been an encampment of the Danes, when they made landings on the east coast of Scotland. Pvblic Buildings. — The Town- House, situated in Broad Street, was built in 1788. It consists of two floors and a ground area. The ground floor is used for shops, the first floor is occupied for school-rooms, and the second is used for public business. It is surmounted by a handsome spire of granite, 125 feet in height The parish church is situated at the entrance of the town ; it was built in 1803, and is calculated to contain upwards of 1800 sitters. It also has a spire built of granite, 118 feet in height. The building of this church gave rise to an important question. PETERHEAD. 357 viz. whether the feuars in the town were obliged to bear a share of the expense along with the landward heritors, which was liti- gated in the Court of Session and House of Peers. It was finally decided that the building of the church was a parochial burden, and that the heritors and feuars were liable in this burden accord- ing to their real rents. The church is in good repair, and has lately been lighted with gas. The Episcopal Chapel, in Merchant Street, is a very neat building, having a Gothic front of axe-dressed granite. It was built in 1814, and is calculated to contain 800 sitters. The present Cross was erected in 1832, partly by voluntary subscription, on the occasion of the inhabitants obtaining the pri- vilege of voting for a Member of Parliament It is a Tuscan pillar of granite, surmounted by the arms of Earl Marischall, the founder of the town. • There are various public halls in the town for the accommoda- tion of those who require them : a reading-room, a billiard-room, and hot and cold baths. The houses, both in the town and parish, are in general built of granite, of excellent quality and colour, found in the neighbour- hood. Many of the fronts are ashlar, pick*dressed, while others are axe-dressed and closely jointed. Other Buildings. — There are two mills within the town, one im- pelled by wind and the other by steam, for sawing timber. There are also two mills in the parish for manufacturing grain, chiefly for the London market ; one at Ravenscrag, and the other at In- vemettie, both of which carry on a considerable trade. On the estate of Boddam there is a spinning and carding-mill, impelled partly by water and partly by steam. III. — Population. Although there does not appear to have been any official record of the population previous to the year 1764, Dr Moir, from data contained in the charter of erection, estimated the inhabitants at that time, 1593, to amount to 56. From an anonymous manu- script, he found that in 1727 they amounted to 900. In 1764 there were in the town, 1266 landward part of parish, 1 154 Total, ^2420 In 1769 there were in the town, . 1518 landward part of parish, 1 188 Total, 2706 In 1790 there were in the town, . 2550 358 ABERDEENSHIUE. Population of the town in 1801, 9^4 parish do. 1227 Total, 4491 town in 1811, 3556 country do. . 1151 Total, 4707 town in 1821, 4788 country do. . • • 1590 Total, 6313 town in 1831, .• . 5512 . country do. . 1583 Total, 6695 In June 1831 the total number of males in the parish and town were 2805 females do. do. 3890 In all, 6695 Town. Country. Total. Number of families employed in agriculture, 12 157 169 trade, manufactures, &c 452 23 475 all other families, ... 854 125 979) Total number of families, 1623 Town. Country. TotaL Number of. houses uninhabited, . * . .21 8 29 inhabited, . 687 301 988 houses building, ... 22 The average number of births for the last seven years has been . 270 deaths, do. do. 144 marriages, da do. . . 51 The number of persons in the parish in 1831 under 15 years of age, was 2770 between 15 and 30, 1496 30 and 50, . 1853 50 and 70, . 839 above 70, . 237 Total, 6695 Exclusive of seamen belonging to the port. IV. — Industry. AgriculttJtre. — The whole surface of the parish, exclusive of that part on which the town of Peterhead is built, extends to 9006 im« penal acres, as nearly as can be at present ascertained; about 8266 acres are under cultivation ; about 72 are planted ; about 544 may still be brought into cultivation, including what is under moss servitude ; the remainder of 124 acres can only be partially cultivated, in consequence of rock rising to the surface. Planting. — Planting on the east coast of Scotland, especial- ly near to Peterhead, has hitherto been attempted only to a li- mited extent The attempts which have been made have suc- ceeded better than was anticipated. Near the sea hard-wood, chiefly ash, elm, birch, beech, mountain-ash, plane, alder, and willows have been planted. The first trees which had been planted in this parish last century were at Ellishill and Inver- nettie, and, notwithstanding the little extent and want of shel- ter, they have risen to a considerable size, and are still thriving. 3 PBTEttUEAD. 359 The late James Ferguson, Esq. of Pitfour, planted some small clumps and comers on the estates of Balmoor and Richmond ; these have made considerable progress, and continue in a healthy state. The Governors of the Merchant Maiden Hospital planted a small belt around a piece of ground about half a mile from Pe- terhead, intended to be a public garden. This belt continued to thrive for some years, and the trees made rapid progress ; but for two or three years in succession, owing to north-easterly storms> the leaves were destroyed about the month of May ; and, in (Con- sequence, a considerable number of the trees died. The blanks, however, have been filled up with young plants, which are thriving. George Arbuthnot, Esq. of Invernettie, has planted about seven and a half acres. The plants which he used were, ash, elm, plane, Dutch alder, birch, lime, horse-chestnut, and mountain-ash ; and he mentions that the alder, ash, plane, and elm have succeeded best. He also tried some of the fir tribes, which did not succeed at first; but he now finds that the white American spruce and sil- ver firs are making strong and healthy shoots. At some distance from the sea, and where the elevation above it is greater, about forty acres have been planted with Scotch fir, larch, and spruce, by the Governors of the Merchant Maiden Hos- pital. Whether the wood may come to be of value remains to be seen. On the east coast, the young trees are often destroyed by the north-easterly storms, from which they require to be sheltered, by being planted very thick, especially on the side exposed to the sea. Early pruning seems very detrimental, if not performed spar- ingly. Rent. — The rent of the arable land within the parish may be stated at from 5s. to L. 6 per acre, according to the quality and situation, Live-Stock. — The cattle raised are chiefly of the polled Buchan breed. Of late the Teeswater short horns have been partially in- troduced, and crossed with the native breed. Difiereiices of opi- nion are entertained regarding the Teeswater cattle and the cross breeds from them, — some being of opinion that the Teeswater come much sooner to maturity at not much more expense for rear- ing, and yield equally good milk and beef; while others think that the native breed is more easily reared, yielding better milk and flesh, and, with equal attention, would come to the same weight, although not in the same time. Both breeds are allowed to be ex- cellent of their kind, and farther experience can alone determine 360 ABERDEENSHIRE. whether the one is destined to supersede the other ; or if both should be retained, and kept distinct or crossed. Sheep are not reared in sufficient numbers to deserve any par- ticular remarks. The horses are also of the native breed, and are well fitted for the cart or plough. The following is nearly the number of the live-stock in the parish m February 1837, viz. — horses, 417; stots or oxen, 554; cows, 775; calves, 181; sheep, 1 08 ; swine, 99. Husbandry. — In the immediate neighbourhood of the town, the lands are let in small lots to the inhabitants on leases of eight years, and the following rotations are followed : — A four-shift course, x5on- sisting of one division in turnips or potatoes ; one division in bear or oats, sown with grass seeds ; one division in grass ; and one division in bear or oats, after grass; or potatoes from two years old grass; oats or bear after potatoes or turnips with grass seeds ; first year's grass and second year's grass. In some instances, the lots are nearly all in grass, in consequence of the rents received from fishermen em- ployed in the herring fishery, who pay from L. 2 to L. 6 per acre for the use of the ground to dry their nets. Upon the farms in the parish, the rotation is generally either a five or a seven-course shift. The five-course shift consists of two grass crops in two sue* cessive years, one. white crop after lea, a green crop or &llow, and then another white crop. The seven course shift consists of three grass crops in three successive years, two white crops after lea, a green crop or fallow, and then another white crop. Within the last thirty years, the improvements in agriculture have been very extensive ; the whole lands in the parish have been drained, and roads have been made for the accommodation of the farms. A regular system of farming has been adopted ; the fields have been laid out, and, in many cases, enclosed to answer the im- proved system of cropping ; and an extent of waste land, not less than 1500 imperial acres, has been brought into cultivation. Much benefit has been derived from deep ploughing, so as to mix the subsoil with the topsoil, and to destroy the ferruginous incrus- tation or pan, which in many places divided the one from the other, and rendered the soil impervious to water. By attending to the improvements already effected, and adopting, when necessary, the same means, much may still be done to increase the value of land in this parish, as there are many facilities of obtaining manure from the town of Peterhead, which do not exist in more remote parishes. PETERHEAD. 361 Impr(memenis.^^\i may not be out of place here to mention shortly the progressive improvements of the parish, and the means by which they have been effected. At the time of the last Sta- tistical Account, the alternate system of husbandry had not been adopted, and the state of agriculture had not been much improv- ed for a very considerable period before. The late James Fergu* son, Esq. of Pitfour, was the first who introduced the alternate system of husbandry. He gave an example of the great benefit resulting from good farming upon the estate of Balmoor, by drain- ing, inclosing, dividing into regular fields, planting clumps of wood, fallowing, liming, green-cropping, and laying out in grass. A con- siderable part of this estate remains in grass, as laid out by Pit- four, and returns high rents. The estates of Peterhead, Clerk- hill, Auchtygall, and Torterston, belonging to the Merchant Maiden Hospital of Edinburgh, and the estates of Invernettie and Boddam, were the next which began to be improved. The tenants were bound to a regular rotation of cropping, roads were made, the old fences were levelled, open ditches and drains were formed, hedges were planted, the old ridges levelled, and the land divided into regular fields to answer the rotations agreed upon. The same means were resorted to upon the other estates in the parish, and the fields soon exhibited a very improved ap- pearance, and became of much greater value, both to the proprie- tors and tenants. Th^ improvements on the estates of the Merchant Maiden Hos- pital have been extensive; — 8851 ells of old feal dikes were pulled down and levelled ; 28,285 ells of open drains or ditches have been cut; 11,146 ells of covered drains or sewers, built on both sides, and covered with granite, were made ; 26,900 ells of double ditch and sunk or mound between the two ditches, plant- ed with double hedges of hawthorn, and 3786 ells of double stone dikes have been formed and built; and 13,155 ells of roads have been made for the accommodation of the tenants. While the already cultivated land was thus under progressive improvement, the waste and (hitherto) uncultivated ground was not neglected. Considerable progress was made by trenching with the spade and mattock, on the estate of Invernettie, and the other estates in the parish ; but this mode was too expensive to afford a reasonable return for the capital expended. It was afterwards found that it was possible to improve these lands by the plough, and this method was adopted very extensively on the estates of the 332 ABBRDBENSHIUE. Merchant Maiden Hospital, and is now very generally followed on other estates. It is shortly as follows : Firsiy To remove the stones from the surface, and from the soil in so far as they can be seen ; and this is done more easily, and at less expense, while the surface has not been broken. Second, To drain the land ef- fectually ; and it has been found that one very deep drain, proper- ly placed, supersedes the necessity of many others. Thirdy If the upper soil is worthless, to plough it slightly, and bum the heath and dead moss, which may be done at a very trifling expense in dry weather. Fourth, To plough the land with a very strong trench plough, drawn by four steady horses or oxen, taking care to keep the plough below the moorband, where such exists. The first ploughing with the trench plough should be done when the land is wet; during the dry season, in most cases, it would be impracticable. Fijth, After the land has been trench ploughed, the stones that have been ploughed up are also removed, inequalities in the soil are made up by a levelling box, and the land is regularly fallowed, dunged, limed, and cropped according to the nature of the soil. By the means which have now been mentioned, 407 acres on the Blackhill of Peterhead, belonging to the Merchant Maiden Hospital, have been brought into cultivation, which had been re- ported upon by the late Mr Alexander Low of Berwickshire as follows : " The hill is very worthless, and bids defiance to the ope- ration of the plough for improvement." This hill is now nearly all und^r a regular system of cultivation, and yields crops Tiearly equal to the formerly cultivated lands in the neighbourhood. In improving this hill, roads have been made to the extent of 3780 ells; earth fences, 8621 ells; open and covered drains, 5312 ells; and stone dikes, about 4000 ells. Rental. — At the time of the last Statistical Account, the ren- tal of the parish amounted to L. 3000 ; in 1803, it was Lb 4094 ; in 1837, it amounted to L. 10,136. The following account is given to show the number of acres brought into cultivation in this parish since 1795, the estates on which these are situated, and the extent remaining uncultivated and waste at the present time : The total number of imperial acres in tUe parish is Whereof planted. Maiden Hospital, Jnvernettiey Under mofss servitude, capable of cultivation, Uncultivated, but capable of being so, A. R. P. . 9085 d 2 A. R. P. 60 d 89 7 2 19 86 1 25 482 320 PETERHEAD. 363 A. R. P. Can only be partially cultivated, in consequence of the rocks rising to the surface^ - - 139 3 777 2 27 8308 15 CuUiTated at the time of the hist Account, - . 6353 2 30 Brought into cultiTation since 1795, - - 1954 1 25 Being upon the estates of the Merchant Maiden Hospital, 791 2 25 estate of Boddam, - 152 1 37 Sandford, • - 63 2 5 Cowhills of Invemettie, 41 3 28 Invemettie Lodge, - 69 3 21 Dens, partially cultivated before, as nearly as can be ascertained, 254 23 Upon part of the north half oC I nvemettie, - 63 2 5 . The balance, interspersed pasture, and waste, over all the estates in the parish, ... 517 30 Acres, 1954 1 25 19M 1 25 Produce, — It is somewhat difficult to approximate very near to the truth, in estimating the gross value of the produce of this pa- rish, owing to the produce of the lands in the immediate neigh- bourhood of the town being of considerably greater value than that of those parts of the parish lying at a distance, and the great difference in the rents of the one from the other ; but the follow- ing may be taken as being not very far-from a fair estimate. The cultivated land is 8309 acres. The rotations are seven, five, and four. Assume a five shift rotation, viz. — i of 8309 acres ■» 1661 acres in grain crop, at L. 4, 5s. per acre, L. 7059 5 f ==: 3322 in do. at L. 4, lOs. 14949 I = 1661 in 1st year's grass, at L.3, 10s. 5813 10 i =:1661 in 2d do. at L.1, 15s. 2406 1^ L. 30,228 10 It has been generally held that the value of the gross produce of land should be about equal to thrice the amount of the rental^ thus The rental of this parish in 1837 is, as formerly sUted, L. 10,136 19 8 Maintenance and expense of labour, 10,136 19 8 Interest of capital and profit, . . 10,136 19 8 L. 30,410 19 And the amount approximates very near to that of the value of the gross produce as given above. Quarries. — There are extensive quarries of granite in the parish.. From Stirlinghill, stones have been taken for the building of various^ public works, including the Naval Docks at Sheerness, bridges, pe<» destals, the pillar at the Horse Guards, Carlton Gardens, to the me- roory of the Duke of York, &c. Blocks of large size may be raised^ and the granite is of excellent quality, resembling, perhaps, nearer 364 ABERDEENSHIRE. than any other rock in this country, the Egyptian granite or syenite. It admits of being finely poHshed, and is now extensively used for that purpose by Mr Alexander Macdonald of Aberdeen, who has erected a steam engine for polishing granite, and has pro- duced very fine specimens of his work, in chimney-pieces, pilbirsy pedestals, vases, &c. As granite can be polished at less expense and in a more perfect manner, by steam than by manual labour, it is likely to come into general use. The granite of Peterhead is not inferior to that of Stirlinghill, while it is clearer in colour. At Salthousehead is a quarry of beautiful gray or white granite of excellent quality, but the rock is covered with a thick mass of clay. The quarries on the Blackhill are extensive, and afford blocks of large size ; the colour is somewhat different from that of the Stir- linghill or Peterhead rock, but it is equally durable and more easily wrought in the quarry, being generally of large sizes with open joints, and admitting of being easily squared by the hammer. The granite of Blackhill, in one quarry, is similar to that of Salthousehead. The following is an account of the granite shipped at Peterhead, firom February 18i7 to January 1822: — PaTement Causeway blocks Building blocks and crib in feet in tons. , in feet. From Mr Hutchison of Cairngall'k quarry in Longside, 5600 20 3920 From Stirlinghill, by Messrs Low and Gibby . 3890 75 213,459 From Blackhill of Cruden, and Salt- househead, by Messrs Jolliffe, Banks, and Banncrman, 97 252,224 Other shipments, 4877 337 529 7380 • 14637 feet, 476,963 feet, or 513 tons. ( MT 34,070 tons. The value may be estimated as follows »^^^ »^^^ 14,637 feet of crib, at 98. L. 538 15 3 529 tons of causeway blocks, 264 10 476,983 feet of building blocks, at 46. 6d. 107,321 3 6 L.108,i24 8 9 Freight of 35,1 12 tons. 21,067 L.129,19l 8 9 From the inexhaustible resources arising from these quarries, the excellent and durable quality of the rock, and their proximity to the harbours of Peterhead and Boddam, there can be little doubt, that,' in the execution of public works of importance, the working of them will afford employment to many labourers, and tend to the improvement of the neighbourhood. PETBRHEAD. 365 Fisheries. — The fisheries of Peterhead have always been of great importance to the town. The whale-fishery was for many years of the first importance ; of late it has not been attended with its former success; but there are still ten vessels employed in that trade, and it is not improbable that it may again become more suc- cessful, as the late failures have been occasioned more by bad sea- sons and an altered state of the ice at the fishing ground, than by a decrease in the number of the whales. It may be interesting to trace the success of the vessels belong- ing to Peterhead, employed in the Greenland and Davis' Straits Whale Fisheries since 4he commencement of that trade in 1788 to the present time. With this view the following account of the success of these vessels, collected from the best sources of infor- mation, is given : Naof No. of Tons No. of No. of Tons Years. ships. whales. of oil. Years. ships. whales. of oil. 1788, 1813, 6 50 726 1789, 1814, 7 164 1390 1790, w 47 1815, 8 65 850 1791, 1816, 8 114^ 866 1792, 1 12 1817, 10 64 717 1793, 5 59 1818, 12 135 1219 1794, 1819, 13 74 780 1796, 3 54i 1820, 15 103 1130 1796, 1821, 16 155 1836 1797, 6 49 1822, 16 95 1237 1798, 7 71 1823, 15 268 2217 1799, • 8 96i 1824, 16 119 1684 1800, ' 8 ^77i 1825, . 16 46 643 1801, 8 47i 1826, 14 83 1105 1802, 11 117 1827, . 13 154 1452 1803, 10 84 1828, 14 92 1247 1804^ ! 2 36 228 1829, . 12 118 1445 1805, 2 37 272 1830, . 13 23 288 1806, 2 H 104 1831, . 12 35 430 1807, 2 43 318 1832, 11 159 1244 1808, 2 57 299 1833, . 11 213 1642 1809, 2 47 316 1834, . 11 99 1093 1810, 3 53 479 1835, . 11 48 759 1811, 4 109 753 1836, 11 6 100 1812, 4 81 715 The altered state of the whale fishing has been made up in a great measure to the community by the success which has of late attended the herring fishery. Notwithstanding the Dutch had from time immemorial carried on a successful herring fishery on the coast opposite to Peterhead, it is not many years since this fishery was prosecuted to any extent at this place. It commenced in 1820, at the suggestion of the writer of this account, by the gen- tlemen of Peterhead, who entered into subscriptions with him to 366 ABKRDRENSHIRE. give it a fair trial, and it has gone on increasing gradually and steadily. Last season 262 boats were employed, and upwards of 40,000 barrels of herrings were caught It is supposed that Pe- terhead, being farther east than any other point in Scotland, must at all times be one of the best stations for carrying on the herrii^ fishery, as, if the fish pass along the coast, they must pass very near to this headland ; and as the tides are strong, the best fish can only make head against them. In point of fact, the curers acknowledge that the herrings caught at Peterhead are of supe- rior quality. The shoals of herrings are followed by spout whales, and an attempt, not without success, was last season made to catch these whales. The necessary apparatus was invented by Mr Robert Hutchison of this place ; and there remains little doubt that, in the present season, he will be able to establish the practicability of whale fishing on our own shores ; and thus Introduce a trade which may be of no small consequence to the country. Mr Hutchison's object is to kill the large finners. Last season he succeeded in killing three ; but in consequence of their having sunk, he after- wards lost them. When they had lain some time at the bottom, they again floated, in consequence of the expansion of gases gene- rated in them, and were afterwards found. He thinks, however, that this season he will be able to keep hold of them by the lines. The cod, ling, haddock, and whiting, are to be found in great abundance on this coast, and are caught and exported in their seasons. Besides these, flounders of all kinds, roughback, plaise, sole, halibut, turbot, skate, dog, and catfish, and a great variety of others, including the lobster, mackerel, and crab are to be found. All these afibrd ample means for the extension of the white fish- ery, and a mine of wealth yet remains to be explored as a reward to the exertions of those who may embark in the fisheries at Peter- head. Manufactures. — There are no extensive manufactures of woollen or cotton goods in Peterhead ; there are, however, experienced and well employed tradesmen and mechanics in every department usually found in larger towns. It is to be regretted that manufac- tures have not hitherto been introduced. Peterhead seems well adapted for such establishments ; for although there are not sufficient waterfalls near the town, there are such in the parish. There is a sufficient quantity of water in the town for working by steam, and the harbours afibrd facilities for exporting and imports PETERHEAD. 367 ing. As has been before^mentioned, a carding and spinning-mill, on a small scale, has lately been erected on the estate of Boddam ; and if the projector of it shall be successful, others may be indu- ced to commoQce works of a similar nature, a sufficient quantity of water could be accumulated as a moving power, and there are va- rious falls unoccupied. From the increase of population in Peterhead, the excellence of the harbours, the highly cultivated district adjoining, the con- sequent abundance of provisions, and the excellent and cheap ma- terials for building, found in the neighbourhood, it may be pre- sumed that those having a knowledge of manufactures would find it their interest to settle at Peterhead. Brick'Work. — The Invernettie brick- work has been in operation for about forty years. It is now within the Parliamentary boundary of the burgh, and is situated about a mile to the south of the town. The bed of clay is wrought to the depth of thirty to forty feet. Building bricks and tiles of excellent quality are made at this work ; and, besides what are required in the district, a very considerable quantity is exported annually, chiefly to the Moray Frith. The proprietors have lately erected a small harbour in the immediate vicinity of the work, for the accommodation of their trade. Rnpe-warh — A rope* work is carried on, on the west side of the turnpike road, betweea the town and the brick- work, and another in the town. The business done is considerable, chiefly in mak- ing ropes for ships belonging to Peterhead, or frequenting the port. Gas^work. — In 1833, a joint-stock company was established in Peterhead for the manufacture of gas. The buildings are situated in Longate, and the business is conducted by a board of directors and a manager. Kelp or Sea-ware. — The kelp shpres in this parish during the late war were of considerable value, yielding a rental of upwards of Lb 120 per annum. They are now unlet, as it has been found here that kelp will not yield more than the expense of manufac* turing it ; it is, therefore, of importance to find out any other use» ful purpose to which the sea-ware or fuci can be applied. It will be found that the kelp-ware may be cut, dried, and carried to a considerable distance at less expense than the wet ware cast on shore by the violence of the sea ; and a single cart-load of dried ware is equal to six cart-loads of wet ware, — for example, a cart- load may be cut and carried on shore for 6d. and dried for 3d., which is equal to 4s. 6d. for a load of dried ware ; and as six loads 368 ABERDEENSHIRE. of wet ware are only equal to one of dry ware, and the expense of carrying a load of wet ware to a distance of four niles is 2s., the carriage of the six loads would be 12s., while an eqnal quan- tity of dried ware would only cost for cutting ancL drying 46. 6d. and carriage 2s., in all 6s. 6d., leaving a balance of 5s. 6d. in fa- vour of the dried ware when carried an equal distance, supposing it, in either case, to be got without any other price than the ex- pense of cutting and gathering. It will also be found that the ware does not lose any of its powers as a manure by being dried. The ware maybe used, 1^^, mixed with earth or peat-moss, by which it is decomposed; Qd, mixed with stable-yard dung; 8^ as a litter for cattle or horses ; 4^A, as fodder (in part) for cattle, it having been found that cattle will feed upon it. The three first of these uses have been experimented upon with success in this parish. The last suggestion, that it might be used for the purpose of feed« ing cattle, would require to be more fully put to the test of expe- rience before any thing can be asserted with confidence regarding its qualities in that respect. During the last season, it was, in a few cases, used for the above purpose, and said to be relished by the cattle. The best mode of using it would, perhaps, be to cut it along with the straw, and mix both together. It is probable, that it might be improved by being steamed before being used. It may be added that the species of ware most esteemed by kelp-makers, called black ware, will be found to be more powerful as a manure than the red ware cast upon the shores during storms. In both cases, whether used as a manure or for feeding cattle, it is an object well worth the attention of agriculturists near the coast ; and it is to be hoped that experiments may be made, and the result communicat- ed to the public V. — Parochial Economy. Town of Peterhead. — The town of Peterhead stands upon a pe- ninsula projecting into the German Ocean, and forming the most easterly point of land in Scotland. The isthmus which connects (he town and country part of the parish is about 800 yards in breadth. Dr Moir states that the town, which had then been only a small fishing village, witli the adjoining lands of considerable value, belonged to the abbey of Deer in 1560, and that, in that year. Queen Mary appointed Robert Keith, son of William fourth Earl Marischall, commendator of Deer. Peterhead was erected into a burgh of barony by George Earl Marischall in 1593. It continued a part of the estates of the Earls Marischall until the PETERHEAD. 369 aitaiDder of the last Earl, in consequence of his accession to the Rebellion in 1715. It was then purchased by the York-Buildings Company, who sold it to the present proprietors, the Governors of Maiden Hospital, founded by the Company of Merchants of the city of Edinburgh and Mary Erskine, in 1728. The original inhabitants appear to have been Bshers, and the chief trade carried on at Peterhead, for a long time after it became a bui^h of barony, was the white-fishing, in which the proprietor bad an interest by drawing teinds of the fish caught. The fish- ermen were taken bound to assist in the erection of a harbour, which they did, and which still remains under the name of Port Henry. By the original charter in 1593^ the Earl Marischall esta- blished a municipal government in the town in the following terms : <* For gyding and rewiling of the quilk brugb, the said Erie and bis foresaidis sail elect, nominat, and chuse baillies, clerkes, and otheres officeares, necessares and meit for the governement of the samin, of the nichbouris, and fewares of the said brugh, actual! in- duellers for the time, within the same, the said Erie alwyse and his foresaidis remaning proveist or sd bailiie yairof," &c. And this system of municipal government continued until the passing of the Parliamentary Burgh Reform Act. By this act the muni- pal government has been vested in twelve councillors, who, from their own number, choose a provost, three baillies, and a treasurer, and the boundaries of the town have been defined and considera- bly extended, embracing part of the lands of Black House and Invemettie, beyond the limits of the barony of Peterhead. The barony of Peterhead, besides the estates of Peterhead proper, embraces the lands of Clerkhill, Auchtygall, and Collielaw. The lands of Torterston are erected into a separate barony, under the name of the Barony of Torterston. The town of Peterhead has been much extended, and the num- ber of its inhabitants has greatly increased since the last Statistical Account was written. The ground now occupied by the town ex- tends to about 70 imperial acres, of which about 20 are occupied by streets. The length of the streets is about 4 miles 5 furlongs and 148 yards. The number of inhabited houses is about 1000. The rental of houses and warehouses in the town is about L.7500. Ranheads. — The Ronheads is situated within the burgh, oppo- site a ridge of rocks on the north side of the north harbour. It is inhabited chiefly by fishermen, who supply the town with fish, and act as pilots. Some of these at least may be reasonably sup- ABBRDBEN. A a 370 ABERDEENSHIRE. posed to be descendants of the original inhabitants. They hafe hitherto got the stances of their houses rent free, in consequence of being bound by the original charter to pay teind fish to the proprietors of the ground. Owing to the fishermen being also pilots, and some of them seamen and shipmasters, they do not pay that attention to the fishing which its importance desenres. The original harbour, built in 1593^ and named Port Henry, is occu- pied by^e fishermen's boats. Buchanhaven, — This village is also now within the ParUamen* tary boundary of the burgh. The inhabitants are employed in the white and herring fisheries. Five herring boats, and five white- fishing boats belong to it. A small harbour has been erected for the accommodation of the fishermen belonging to the village. Community of Feuars. — Certain properties and privileges of commonty and common pasturage, fuel, feal, and divot were grant* ed to the original feuars of Peterhead, by Earl Marischall in the charter of erection. In 1774, these properties and privileges were confirmed by the Governors of the Merchant Maiden Hospital, who agreed to divide the commonties, and they accordingly con- veyed those parts of them which fell to their feuars, to certain of the feuars, for themselves, as feuars of the towd of Peterhead, and as trustees for and in name of the haill other (then) feuars there- of, and of all such persons as should at any time thereafter be- come feuars of the said town or lands, and the heirs and succes- sors of all (the then) present and future feuars^ to be improved and applied as a majority of the said feuars, at the time, and from time to time, should think fit, for the public good and utility of the said town. In the charters subsequently granted a share of these properties and privileges is conveyed to the individual feuars. The rental of the feuars' properties now amounts to about L. 260 per Annum. These properties are claimed by the magistrates, in vir- tue of the Burgh Reform Act ; and this claim has been resisted on the part of the hospital and their feuars, on the ground that the same are private property, arising out of legal deeds between superior and vassal. In order to have this point decided, mutual actions of declarator have been raised, and are now depending in the Sa<- preme Court. These actions, it is probable, would not have been necessary if proper inquiries had been made before the act was passed. Museum belonging to Adam Arbuthnot^ Esq. — The formation of this museum has been the work of about twenty years. It con- PETERHEAD. 37.1 tains subjects and speeimeiis connected with the various branches of natural history, mineralogy, geology, &c« There is also a col- lection of antiquities, a portion of which is rendered particularly interesting, as they have been found in our own country, and some of them in our own immediate neighbourhood. The museum em- braces likewise a valuable and interesting collection of coins. The English coins embrace the whole period from the time of Edgar to that of William IV ; the Scotch, from William the Lion to James VI. The Grecian coins consist of those of the princi- pal petty states ; of Philip, King of Macedon, and Alexander the Great. The Roman coins comprehend not only those of the Em- perors, but also of the consuls, coadjutors, and usurpers. The mu- seum is always accessible to the public Police.'^The town of Peterhead obtained an act of Parliament, in 1820, for supplying the inhabitants with water, and for paving, lighting, and otherwise improving the streets. Previous to the passing of this act, the inhabitants were supplied with water from the roofs of their houses, or from wells dug in the neighbourhood of them ; and in either case the supply was precarious, and the water of bad quality. Considerable expense had been incurred in searching for good spring water within a moderate distance from the town, but without success. At length, in draining upon the estate of Auchtigall, a very copious spring was found, yielding upwards of forty gallons of pure spring water per minute. This spring is now conveyed to the town, a distance of 2 miles, 5 fiir- longs, and 10 yards; and the inhabitants enjoy the comfort of an adequate supply of excellent water fit for every domestic purpose. Before the Police Act was obtained, the streets had been much improved by removing obstructions and inequalities, and substi- tuting metalling for rough undressed stones, with which they were paved. Side paths were laid off, and paved either with dressed granite, or crib and pebbles. The expenses incurred in bringing water into the town amount- ed to L.3167. The annual rate of assessment has hitherto been Is. 9d. per pound, which is applied to pay the interest of the money borrowed, and for lighting the streets and executing the other purposes of the act. PosUOffijce. — The revenue of the post-office for the last seven years has been as under. For 1830, - L.718 15 lOJ For 1834, - L.819 1 Qt 1881, - 781 5 2 1835, - 811 16 '^ ltt32, - 828 2 4 1836, - 894 18 1833, . 807 12 8^ 372 ABERDEENSHIRE. making in all L. 5724, 12s. Did., which, divided by seven, gives for the average revenue L.817, 16s. Turnpike Roads. — The turnpike roads are, the south road to Aberdeen, the west to Banff, and the north to Fraserburgh, . amounting altogether in length to about nine or ten miles within the parish. Coaches, — There are four coaches connected with Peterhead : the Mail to and from Aberdeen daily; the Mail to and from Banff daily; the Defiance stage-coach to and from Aberdeen daily ; and the Lord Saltoun stage-coach betwixt Peterhead and Fraserburgh every alternate day. The Harbours. — These harbours, from their peculiar situation at the termination of the most easterly promontory of land in Scot- land, and the great resort to them, deserve particular notice. The earliest notice taken of these harbours is in the charter of erection of the town of Peterhead, by George Earl Marischall, in 1593. In that charter the Earl binds himself to '^ build ane bul- wark in the mouth of the haven called Port Henry." This bul- wark was accordingly erected by his Lordship, and is the same for- merly noticed as being used by the fishermen in the Ronheads for landing their boats. The bulwark is built in a very rough man- ner, with masses of undressed granite. It has never required to be repaired, and the original pieces of oak timber used as moor- ing posts, are still in a serviceable state. This harbour is capable of holding from six to eight vessels, not exceeding 100 tons bur- den ; but is seldom used except by the fishermen for their boats. It does not appear at what time the south haven or harbour had been erected, but it does not seem to have been of much import- ance at the beginning of last century ; for in 1702, the whole re- venue arising from it was only L. 71, 6s. Scots, and it was ca- pable of containing a very few vessels of small size. It would seem that at this time the pier of the harbour had fallen into decay, and was in need of repair. In the year 1 705, in consequence of the great public utility of these harbours, an act of the Privy-council of Scotland was passed, authorizing a voluntary contribution for repairing the harbours of Peterhead, to be made throughout the three Lothians, and all north of the Forth. No collection, how- ever, was made in consequence of this act, the Earl Marischall having been of opinion that he would be able to obtain more effi- cient assistance from the British Parliament ; but in consequence of his being engaged soon after in the Rebellion, the matter was PETERHEAD. 373 never by him brought before Parliament, and the harbour conti- nued in the same ruinous state at the time of his forfeiture in 1716. The estate and harbours of Peterhead, after Earl MarischaH's attainder, were purchased from Government by the York-Build- ings Company ; but this company adopted no measures for repair- ing the harbours, although a petition was presented to the mana- gers, pointing out the urgent necessity of having them repaired. In 1726, the estate was sold, along with the harbours, to the Go- vernors of the Merchant Maiden Hospital of Edinburgh, who still continue superiors of the town and harbours. At that time, from the limited extent of the harbours, and the state of repair they had fallen into, the revenue amounted only to L. 12 per annum ; and only three small vessels belonged to the port. In July 1729, HU act of the Convention of Royal Burghs was obtained in favour of the town of Peterhead, for a voluntary contribution throughout all the burghs of the country for repairing these harbours. It does not appear what the extent of the contribution obtained was, but it would appear it had not been adequate to the repairs, for, in 1730, the ship-masters of Leith, and merchants of Edinburgh gave an attestation of the great public utility of these harbours ; and the town-council of Edinburgh authorized a collection to be made in all the churches of the city and its neighbourhood, which was made iaccordingly, and amounted to L. 240, 14s. 6d. Sterling; and so much anxiety was evinced for the repairs of these harbours, that, in February 1740, an assembly was held in Edinburgh in aid of the other collections for this pur^iose. From the year 1740 to the year 1771, it may be supposed that the trade of the town had not made rapid progress ; — the follow- ing being the annual amount of the harbour duties at different pe- riods in that interval ; in 1741, L. 20, 8s. 4d. ; 1751, L. 30 ; 1761, L.50, 15s.; 1771, L.59, 10s. In 1771, it would appear that the south harbour had again fal- len into disrepair, and, with the aid of contributions from the royal burghs, from the superiors, from private individuals, and from money raised upon the security of the property belonging to the community of feuars, the harbour began to be again repaired. About this time the plan of the present south harbour was obtain- ed from the late Mr Smeaton, engineer, and the building of it ac- cording to his plan commenced in June 1773. The construction of the old south harbour was just the reverse of that of the new pne. The old harbour was enclosed by two curved piers towards 374 ABKRDKENSHinE. the sea, having an opening for the mouth, and the effect of thi# was, that the harbour was not quiet within. The present south pier is concave towards the sea, so as to make the waves run along it from each end until they meet in the centre, when they destroy each other and are thrown off seaward. The west pier is nearly at right angles with the south pier, and is covered by it, and the former has a jetty running eastward, parallel with the south pier^ which protects the interior of the harbour from the seas which may yet get round the end of the south pier. By a contract entered into between the governors of the hospital and their feuars in 1774, the latter acknowledged that the har- bours, quays, anchorages, shore-dues, and petty customs, and emoluments arising therefrom, were disponed, and belonged to the hospital as part of their estate. Nevertheless, the governors^ for the encouragement of their feuars, and for promoting the pub- lic good and utility of the town, agreed that the rents and profits of these subjects should be received and applied by their feuars for the time being, or the majority of them, for enlarging, build- ing, repairing, and upholding the harbours, piers, shores^ and other public works within the town, in time coming, but always under the inspection, and subject to the control of the governors^ or such person or persons as they should appoint, from time to time, for that purpose. The piers of the south harbour were completed in 1781, and cost L.d256, 6s. lOd. ; but even after that expenditure, the harbour was only capable of containing about twenty sail of small vessels. The rock and other stuff continued to be excavated from the interior of the harbour, in consequence of which the accommodation to vessels was rendered greater, and the trade and revenue increased, as will be seen from the following account of the annual revenue, at different times, from 1773 to 1807*: Years. Annual Revenue. 1772, L. 50 5 1782, . . 55 5 1792, 65 1802, . 122 1807, . 173 At the latter period the harbour had been so much enlarged as to be capable of containing 50 or 60 sail of vessels ; but even this increased means of accommodation was found inadequate to the trade of the place ; and the late Mr John Rennie, engrneer, was applied to for a plan and estimate for extending the south harbour, and for building a new north harbour ; and an act of 3 PETRBBEAD. 375 Parliament was applied for and obtained, for the further improve- ment of the south, and the erection of the north harbour. Soon sfiter this, 50,000 cubic yards of rock and other stuff were ex- eavated from the bottom of the south harbour, — the jetty of the west pier was extended 40 feet, — a quay, extending 300 feet in length, was built upon the east side of the harbour, — an addition of about 200 feet in length was made to the west pier, which cost about L. ld,80O, including a grant of L. 3900 obtained from the G>mmissioners for Highland Roads and Bridges out of the For* feited Estates' Fund. By these improvements the south harbour was rendered capable of containing from 100 to 120 vessels in complete safety. The rock and other stuff taken from the bot- tom of the south harbour, was deposited in the direction of a small rocky island, called the Greenhill, so as to connect it with the south, and form the boundary of the north harbour; and this stuff was protected from the sea by a bulwark. The trade and shipping still continued- to increase; and in 1815 it was found that additional accommodation had again become necessary. Un- der these circumstances, the governors of the hospital and the trustees of the harbours again applied to the Parliamentary Com- missioners for Roads and Bridges, and made offer to find security for one moiety of the expense of erecting the north harbour, and building a graving dock, which had become very necessary, in consequence of many vessels being stranded, and sustaining da- mage during the winter season upon the coast near to Peterhead. The Commissioners having agreed to grant one moiety, ordered a survey and estimate to be made by the late Mr Thomas Telford, civil-engineer. Mr Telford accordingly gave in a report and plans for the works. The harbour was begun to be built in 1818 ; but, owing to the exposed situation of the breakwater or great pier, and its having to sustain the great force of the sea from the east and north, when in an unfinished state, and in consequence un- protected, it was totally destroyed by a tremendous storm which occurred in October 1819. Upon being applied to, the Com- missioners agreed to bear one-half of the expense of rebuilding the pier, which was immediately set about ; and the north har- bour, according to Mr Telford's plan, was finished in September 1822, at an expense of L. 25,194, 2s. S^d. This harbour, being unprotected on the north side, the trustees soon after commenced to build a pier in that direction, which is now to be completed, 376 ABERDEENSHIRE. and is at present under execution, by contract, for the sum of L. 4680. The first Act of Parliament for the improvement of these har- hours was to continue for twenty-one years, and, therefore, it be- came necessary to apply for a new act ; and accordingly, in 1827, an act was obtained with additional powers to the trustees and uii* limited in duration. The effects produced by the improvement of the harbours of Peterhead will be seen from the increase of shore dues from 1807 to the present time, 1st March 1837. Tears. Annual Revenue. Tears. Annual Revenue. 1808, L. 367 1 H 182d, . L.1445 1809, 367 1 H 1824, 1445 1810, 495 1825, 1663 18 1811, 525 1826, 1660 1812, 525 1827, 1660 1813, 525 1828, . 1660 1814, 675 1829, 1537 17 04 1815, 675 1830, 2124 4 8 1816, 1000 1831, 1961 1 1817, 1240 1832, 1901 81 1818, 1247 15 1833, 2420 2 10 1819, 1255 10 1834, 2473 8 1820, 1425 1835, 2568 18 4 1821, 1425 1836, 2663 10 11 1822, 1430 17 6 1837, 2879 8 2 Various improvements of these harbours have been contemplat* ed, which are well deserving of being undertaken at the national expense, their object being of national importance. The area of the south harbour is 6.6 imperial acres. The area of the north harbour 10.86 imperial acres. The length of the south quay of the south harbour is 480 feet, its greatest breadth is 42 feet, the height from the base to the top of the parapet 40 feet. The extreme length of the west quay is 653 feet ; lengUi of parapet, 325^ feet; height of parapet, 26 feet ; greatest breadth at entrance, 90 feet. The total length of quays at the north har^ hour is 2219 feet Area of these quays 4 acres, 3 roods, 28 poles imperial. Exports. — From 1st January 1836 to 1st January 1837; the leading articles of export were Grain, Meal, Chests of eggs, each ISO dozen. Butter 112 lb. per cask, , Pork in barrels, each 2 cwt. Cod fish in barrels, Potatoes, Herrings, • 27,164 quarters. 14,424 bolls. 1110 3343 casks. 1634 1089 400 tons. 39,780 cranes. The whale fishery failed last year ; but, taking an average of the PETERHEAD. 377 Ak and patter^ Rum and whiikj, bcndes maUcr eaiksj five yean preceding, 11 yessels brought yearly 4958 ions of blubber, yielding 3305 tons of oil ; and 271 tons of whale fins, which were again e&ported. /nyiofif.— The imports during the same period were as under : loehbds. 202 mats afiShbds. 166 puncheons. 214 do. lOdehesU 279 do. 2,040 sackf S,081 tons 1,038 barrel bulks. 69f>aeket8 24,7601bs. ISO tons 5,800 bundles 49,716 bushels 545 tons So^H Tea, riOIIFy Salt, . Clothierj goods, Hops, Wool, Iron, Wooden hoops, Lime, Bone manure. Foreign and British timber amounting in value to L. 6000. Harbour Renemu, — The revenue of the harbours for the year, from 1st March 1836 to Ist March 1837, arose from Anchorage and wintering dues, Herring fishery, Whale fishery, Grain and meal, Coals, Lune, • Timber, Merchant goods, Sundry exports and imports. Warehouse rent, . The number of vessels which entered the harbours during the same period was 832, and their tonnage 48,136. The number of ships belonging to the Port of Peterhead on the 1st January 1837 was 82, and their tonnage 11,022. The number of wind-bound vessels which have entered the har« hours for the four years from 1833 is as follows : — L.551 11 1 963 7 2 17 12 9 398 2 214 11 6 43 5 112 6 2 248 9 9 321 14 11 8 7 10 L.2879 8 2 In 1833, • 253 1834, • 216 1835, • 209 1836, • 240 which shows of what importance these harbours are to the general trade and shipping interests of the country ; and this importance will be greatly increased, when the pier now under execution is finished, as the harbours will then be capable of affording accom- modation to steam vessels. Custom-Hause. — The merchants and ship-owners of Peterhead have often applied to have the full establishment of a custom- 378 ABERDEENSHIRE. bouse, but bitberto wftbout effect. Of late, tbe officers huve beeo reduced in number, wbile tbeirdoties bave increased.* Filiate ofBoddam. — Tbis village is situated about three milee to tbe south of Peterhead, on a projecting point of land, a little to tbe north of Stirlingbill. It has a south and north boat har- bour, the latter being also capable of receiving ships of modeirate draught of water ; these harbours are only separated from each other by a beach of small rounded stones. Tbe light-hoase at Rucbanness is situated on an island, separated from the mainland and the village by these harbours. Population of the village 460* The number of herring boats belonging to Boddam will amount for this year to 23. The annual produce of the Boddam herring fishery may be fairly stated at L. 100 per boat on an average of seasons. There are three principal fishings, called the summer, the her- ring, and the winter fishings. The summer or haddock fishing, which occupies from March to July in catching, preparing, and going to market with the produce, is carried on in 22 smaller sized boats, manned with four men each, and generally a boy, who has a small share. From 25,000 to 80,000 fish are considered a fair fishing, and they generally bring from L. 8 to L. 4 per thousand, according to their size and quality. The herring fishing occupies the months of July, August, and September : after this the fishermen go for their bait, and occa- sionally go to sea, or prepare for the winter or cod fishing. This last is carried on in twelve boats, of a size between that of a her- ring boat and common fishing yawl, each boat being manned by ^ix men. From 1200 to 1800 cod fish to each boat is considered an excellent fishing, and these bring 4d. to 6d. each, according to size. This fishing ends at Candlemas, when the fishermen again go to supply themselves with bait, and thereafter prepare for the summer fishing. The common kinds of fish caught here are, the cod, the had- dock, and whiting, with occasionally the turbot, ling, and skate. The fishing is made at no very great distance off the coast. Un- til a market was found in summer for haddocks, which is the time they are in poorest condition, tbe fishermen were in the habit, of going to what was called tbe deep sea fishing, at a bank, a long way off tbe coast, where they were very successful in catching ling, cod, turbot, skate, and fiat fish of different kinds ; but for some Since the above was written, the establishment of a Custom-house b«8 been granted to Peterhead. PETERHEAD. 379 years back this fishing has been entirely given up, as the summer dried haddocks have proved more profitable. From the locality of Boddam, extending into the German Ocean, and nearly as far east as Peterhead, the haddocks are always within the reach of the fishermen. These haddocks, when taken from the boat, are split up, carefully washed, and salted in heaps upon the beach ; after lying a sufiicient time, they are carried to the rocks and spread out, one by one, great care being taken to preserve them from occasional rain. They are every night gathered into heaps, and again spread out in the morning. After being sufficiently dried, and in condition for preserving, they are taken home and stored up. Previous to being taken to market, they are smoked on spits with peat smoke, which gives them a fine colour and an agreeable flavour. They are then put into one heap, and strongly pressed down, which gives them a fine marketable appearance. The fish from Boddam obtain a decided preference in the market, — partly from the great care taken upon them, by the people themselves, but in a great measure owing to the rocks along the shore on which the fish are dried, and which are quite clean and free from sand. The average value of the last five years' fishing has been nearly as follows :— The erewt of 21 boats with four men each, say at L. 25 each man, L. 2100 The fishing of 12 boats with six men each, say at L. 8 each man, 576 L.2676 The yeariy value of the fish used by the fishermen, and of oil made b^ them, and of the dog-fish, and refuse sold for manure, may be esti- - mated at L.20 for e^h family, and, taking the number of families at 80, the sum is, 1600 Total exdusive of herrings, . L. ^76 O Add estimated produce of herring-fishery, 2000 L.6276 » which, divided among 80 &milies, gives nearly L. 80 to each. It would be improper to overlook the outlay incurred by the fishermen, which is considerable. Each boat while at the herring- fishing requires to have a hired man, whose wages are equal to one- eighth part of the price of a crane of herrings. Female servants are- engaged, not for the half year, but during the fishing, perhaps for three months, and their wages are from L. 2 to L. 2, 10s. A oonsiiierable quantity of salt, bark, hemp, hair, &c are necessary for the general fishings, and the boats used are of the best quality,^ and are never kept above seven or eight years, when they are dis- posed of to less wealthy fishermen, and replaced by new ones. A 380 ABERDEENSHIRE. summer line costs L. 3, and a winter one L. 4, and many of these are annually lost. All the haddocks caught during the past winter have been sold to curers in Peterhead, and the haddock-fishing in winter has now become a new branch of industry ; formerly the cod-fishing was the principal winter fishing, in the course of which the fishermen generally caught a sufficient supply for their own use and the home market ; since this opening has occurred, however, they have thought it worth their while to prosecute the haddock-fishery, and during last season they have been benefited to the extent of about L. 2 each man. The winter is the season when the haddocks are in the best condition ; and it is supposed, that if the finest of these were packed with ice, in the same manner as salmon, they could be conveyed to the most distant market in fine condition. Boddam has greatly increased within a few years. It has derived much benefit from its proximity to the Buchanness Lighthouse, affording as it does a land-mark to the fishermen. If a harbour were erected it might soon be expected to become a large trading- place. With the exception of Newburgh there is no other place between Aberdeen and Peterhead where a harbour could be erect- ed. It is thought that an outlay of from L.1500 to L.1800 would make a most commodious little harbour. There would always be a greater depth of water there than in the present harbours of Peterhead, and an entry could be made from the south or north.* Many of the fishermen appear, both from name and remaining habits, to be of Dutch extraction ; they are doubtless the descen- dants of those fishermen who were brought over by King William, and planted along the east coasts of Scotland and England. They retain a good deal of primitive simplicity. There are now few of the young men who cannot read, write, and cast up accounts in a very creditable way. l^ike all others of the same occupation, both sexes generally live to an advanced age ; they marry young, and have in general large families. Buchanness Lighthouse — In the year 1819, a petition was pre- sented to the Commissioners of the Northern Lighthouses by the merchants, ship-owners, ship-masters, and others interested in ship- ping, representing the dangers of the coast from Girdleness to Buchanness, an4 from thence to Kinnaird's head, and pointing out the advantages that were likely to result from the erection of a lighthouse upon the Buchanness, not only to the shipping in- • An extensive harbour has been contracted for, and is in the course of beinir erected. • PETERHEAD. 381 terest, but also to those engaged in the herring fishery. A se- cond petition was presented in 1822 to the same effect, detailing some shipwrecks which had then recently occurred; and in Janu- ary 1824, the commissioners resolved to build a lighthouse at Buchanness, and it was soon afterwards completed. It is about 1 18 feet in height, and built of granite from Stirlinghill. The light afforded is what is called a flashing light, which in every five seconds of time emerges from a state of partial darkness, and ex- hibits a momentary light, resembling a star of the first magnitude. It is'visible at the distance of five or six leagues, and lesser dis- tances, according to the state of the atmosphere. It has answer- ed all the good purposes anticipated, both in regard to the ship- ping interest generally, and those engaged in the herring-fishery at Peterhead and along the coast. Bumhaven. — Besides Boddam, Burnhaven is the only village in the parish not now included within the Parliamentary boundary of the burgh. It is a small fishing village, which has lately been erected under that name, on the north side of the bay of Sand- ford, by George Mudie, Esq. of Meethill. The houses are near- ly on a level with the high water-mark at the bottom of the sea braes, and near the mouth of the burn of Invernettie — hence its name. There have been already built 28 houses, and six more have been contracted for. Seven herring boats belong to this vil- lage ; three of which are to fish this season at home, and four at Peterhead. A small harbour or landing place for the accommoda- tion of these boats has been erected by Mr Mudie, at an expense of about L.dOO. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church has already been de- scribed as standing at the entrance into the town from the south and west. It is about three miles and a half distant from the ex- tremity of the parish. It was built in 1803, has repeatedly under- gone repairs, and is at present in excellent condition. It is capa- ble of containing nearly 2000 sitters. There are twelve free sit- tings appropriated for the elders. A new manse was built soon after the last Statistical Account was written. The glebe consists of upwards of nine Scots acres of good land, which is worth annual- ly about L. 50, and the gardens extend to about one acre and a quarter, the manse being situated in them. The stipend was last modified in 1821. It is 18 chalders of victual, half meal, half bar- ley, payable at the highest fiar prices for the county, and L.10 for communion elements, which was afterwards extended by the 382 ABRRDEENSniKE, heritors to L20, in consequence of the sacrament being dispented twice a year. East or quoad sacra Parish Church. — This church was opened as a preaching station in connection with the Established Church in October 1834. The Rev. James Yuille was inducted miniftter b 1835. The church is seated for 700 persons, and the number of communicants (February 1837) was 415. The stipend is L.120 per annum, and, in the event of the revenue amounting to Lh200, the stipend is to be augmented to L.1 50. There is an endow- ment of L.10 in aid of the revenue. Episcopal Chapel — The present church was erected in 1814. It is seated for 800 persons. The number belonging to the con^ gregation is from 1400 to 1500. United Associate Congregation. — The church belonging to this congregation is calculated to contain about 450 sitters. The late Mr John Robertsop, farmer in Collielaw, in this parish, mortified some property, for behoof of the Seceders in Windmill Street, which, since tliat congregation ceased to exist, has been transferred to this congregration. The property yields about L.80 per an- num, of which L.10 is applied to charitable purposes, and the re- mainder towards payment of the clergyman's stipend. Independents. — The place of worship of this congregation, for- merly belonging to the Secession, is not quite so large as that be- longing to the United Associate congregation. The number of persons belonging to this congregation has not been ascertained % but it is believed that it has rather been on the decrease of late. Methodists, — There is a place of worship belonging to this sect, capable of containing about 200 persons. They are supplied with a preacher once a fortnight from Aberdeen. The congrega- tion is understood not to be equal to the extent of accommodation in the church. Members of Established Church. — The number of families at- tending the parish church has not been precisely ascertained; it probably amounts to 1000, — the whole number of families in the town and parish being about 1700. The number of persons of all ages connected with the Established Church is not less than 5000, the gross population being reckoned 8000, which must be very near the truth ; for, adding to 6695, the population according to the census in 1831, 1000 as the number of seamen who were not included, and 305 as the probable increase for the last six years, we have 8000. Here the practice of exacting seat rents universally prevails PETEUHBAD. . 383 Sums varyiDff from Qs. to Gs. are charged and paid for each sitting. The sacrament of the Lord's supper, since 18122, has been dis- pensed twice a year, previous to which period the number of com- municants was as high as 1900, and there has without doubt been an increase since that time. The number of communicants in both the Established Churches at each celebration now varies from 1200 to 1500, and as the seafaring part of the population is for the most part absent at the summer sacrament, and many of those in the country part of the parish cannot conveniently attend in winter, the number of those belonging to the Established Church, who communicate at least once a year, cannot be less than 2000. Educatiatu — The parish school has for upwards of forty years been taught in a room in the town-house, which is vested in the community of feuars, and for which the landward heritors pay a small sum of yearly rent. Of late the room has been found to be inconvenient, in consequence of the noise arising from apartments immediately below it, these apartments being used as market-places, and from the market stance being immediately in front of the town- house. The present schoolmaster, in consequence of these circumstances, has applied to have a school and school-house erected in terms of the statute ; and this has led to an inquiry whether the landward heritors are bound to erect such a parish school as is required for the town and parish of Peterhead ; or whether the erection of a parish school and school-house is not a parochial burden, to be borne, the same as the erection of the pa«- rish church, by both the heritors of the parish, and the feuars of the town according to their real rents. In order to avoid the ad- judication of this point in a court of law, the principal heritors lately agreed to assess themselves in the sum of L.400, if the feu- ars and inhabitants would raise L.300 by voluntary contribution, and the Governors of the Maiden Hospital, with their usual liberali- ty, agreed to give a site for the school and school-house, gratis, to the extent of a quarter of an acre. A near prospect was thus af^ forded of having such a parish school and school-house as the ex- tent of the parish of Peterhead seemed to require. But in the meantime, a delay has taken place in consequence of one or two of the smaller heritors having refused to contribute their share of the L.400, and in consequence of some individuals wishing to su- persede the parish school, by the establishment of an academy on a larger scale, to be conducted, as has been held out by some of 384 ABERDEENSHIRE. the projectors, independently of the supervision of the clei^ of the Established Church, while others of the supporters of the academy scheme are decidedly against the voluntary principle, and there can be little doubt that these will form a large majority. It is not to be expected that an academy could supply the place of a parish school, although it might with advantage be joined to it, and, therefore, it may be anticipated, that, at no distant period, the heritors and feuars will be able to carry into effect their deter- mination to have a proper and suitable parish school, and at the same time avoid the expense of a litigation to ascertain their legal liabilities. At present the parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary of L.34, 4s. 4id., and an allowance of L. 13 for a dwelling-house and garden, besides participating in the Dick bequest Another school is taught in the town-house, in a room afforded gratuitously by the feuars. This school has been ^denominated the Town's School. The present teacher received his appointment from the baron bailies and the feuar's managers ; and he was ap- pointed to teach seven poor children, for which he receives L.10 per annum, in terms of a bequest by the late Mr William Rhind, baker. There is a Lancasterian school under the superintendence of the clergyman of the Ep,^scopal chapel, the master of which receives a salary of L. 20 per annum, from funds mortified by the late Dr Anderson of St Christophers. There are besides, in the town, two schools conducted by ladies, in which the higher branches of fe- male education, such as Music, French, Drawing, &c. are taught by experienced and well qualified instructors. Besides these, there are six other schools in the town, and two in the country part of the parish, chiefly for the ordinary branches of education, viz. reading, writing, and arithmetic The branches taught in the parish school not only embrace English from its lowest stages. Grammar, arithmetic, and Latin, but also the various subdivisiotis of mathematics, geography, his- tory, Greek, and French ; and this renders additional accommoda- tion the more necessary, and which, it may be expected, will, ere long, be obtained. At a former period, the schools in the town-house were con- ducted so as to confine each to a particular department, the pa- rochial schoolmaster taking the languages, and the other writing, arithmetic, and mathematics. This arrangement, it is believedt was conducive to the interests of both, as well as to the abridge* PETERHEAD. S85 ment of the labour of the teachers, and it may again prove advan* tageous, if adopted. The number of scholars attending the different schools throi^h- out the year may probably exceed 700. Although the people in this parish are generally alive to the be- nefits of education, yet there can be no doubt that some of them are brought up without receiving an adequate education, and that ample room remains for the endowment of a charity school, where the poorest children might be educated at very reduced fees. The extreme distance from the parish school is four miles, that' is, to the south and west of the parish. The children in these ' districts attend either the school at Boddam or the school at Miekle Cocklaw; and it is a question worthy of consideration, when the proper time arrives, whether these schools should not be erected intojparochial schools. Sabbath Xhooh. — There are several Sabbath schools, both in connection with the Established Church, and with other denomi- nations. These schools are numerously attended, particularly by females ; and they appear to have effected much good. The school under the superintendence of the church-session has lately been much extended, and is now taught within the church. There is also a numerous Sabbath school taught in the East or quoad sacra Parish Church. IMeraiure. — ^There is no library connected with the parish church ; but it is understood that there are several small libraries belonging to the religious congregations in the town.* Connected with the quoad sacra parish church, more particularly, there is a library supported by congregational subscription, consist- ing of 240 volumes. There is also another library, consisting of 106 volumes, belonging to a religious instruction class, which is taught by the pastor, and meets every Monday evening. The principal library in the town is that belonging to the Read- ing Society, instituted in 1808. This Society is managed by a committee of its own members elected annually. The members pay a yearly subscription of a guinea, and none but members are entitled to the use of the books. The library consists of about 1500 volumes of standard works, embracing the Bridge water Trea- tises ; the seventh edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, now pub- lishing ; the Edinburgh, Quarterly, and London and Westminster Reviews ; the New Statistical Account of Scotland, now publish- • Then is now a library in connection with the parish church. ABERDEEN. B b 386 ABEllDEENSUIUB. ing ; Sir Walter Scott's works ; Alison's History of Europe ; the philosophical works of Reid and Stewart, Hume, Beattie, &c Another library was instituted in October 1836, under the name of the ** Peterhead Mechanics' Library." It already contains upwards of 200 volumes, consisting of religious, historical) and scientific works. Scientific Association. — The only scientific society here is the ^* Peterhead Association for Science, Literature, and the Arts." This Society was established in 1835. At its monthly meetings there are occasional lectures, and the Society is in the course of fitting up a museum, to which various donations have already been made of shells, minerals, antiques, &c* NewS'Room. — The news-room is supported by the annual sub- scription of a guinea from each of the readers. There are received three London daily papers, a daily shipping list, an Edinburgh paper thrice a week, and the Aberdeen JournaL Friendly Societies. — When the last Statistical Account of this parish was written, there were nine friendly Societies in the town ; subsequently several others were formed, and the greatest num- ber at any time was seventeen. After the passing of the Act 10 Geo. IV. which made it imperative on Societies to remodel their rules, and adopt tables founded on the scheme of mutual assur- ances, a general panic arose amon^ the members of nearly all these Societies. Few of them could be convinced of the advantages which the Legislature had in view by the alteration which was thus forced upon them, and so averse were they to adopt .the scheme proposed, that they refused to make that inquiry into the state of their funds which time had rendered necessary. No fewer than ten friendly Societies in the town of Peterhead were entirely broken up in the course of a year or two, and their funds divided among the members. This was the more to be re- gretted, as the greater part, if not the whole of these Societies were possessed of very considerable funds, and, up to the time of their dissolution, had continued to pay annuities to the widows and children of deceased members, and to members in old age, the want of which, particularly among a certain class of the Commu- nity, has since been severely felt ; and although in some instances it might have been found on investigation, that a reduction in the amount of annuities would have been necessary, in order to put all on rfn equal footing, and secure the stability of the institutions, yet, in every case the funds were in such a state that great advan- PETERHEAD. 387 tages would ha?e resulted from the Societies being kept up. An instance of this extraordinary spirit has recently shown itself among the members of the Seamen Friendly Society, formerly the Pilot Society. The funds of this Society amount to about L. 1500 ; both the contributors and those receiving relief are comparatively few in number, and many of the former are in the better ranks of life. In the course of the present year it has been resolved to dis- solve this Society, and divide the funds. At present the following Societies, much to the credit of the members, exist in the town : — Merchant, instituted in 1712. Revenue. House rents and feu-duties, - - - L. 57 1 1 3 Interest of L. 2774 lent, - - - - 112 8 7 Contributions from 21 members at 5s. each, - 5 5 Expenditure. Three annuitants at L. 10, - - L. dO Four do. ' L. 7, IDs, - 30 Five do. L.5, ^ - 25 Present yearly sinking fund, subject to expenses of repairs to houses, and other contingencies, 90 4 10 L. 175 4 10 L.175 4 10 Trades, instituted in 1728. Revenue* House rents, - - - L. 102 9 Contributions from 69 members at 4s. - - 13 16 Expenditure. Nineteen annuitants at 158. - L. 14 5 Two families of orphans at 15s. - 1 10 ' Liferent annuity for money borrowed, 15 Interest of L. 695 borrowed, - 27 16 Present sinking fund, subject to repairs of houses and other contingencies, 57 14 L.116 5 L. 116 5 Keith Lodge of Masons, instituted in 1754. Revenue. Home rents, about .... L.62 Contributions from 128 members at 4s. . 25 12 Expenditure. Fifteen annuitants at 166. L.ld 10 Forty annuitants at lOs. 21 One fiunilv of orphans, . 10 Intereft of L.480 borrowed, 19 4 Present sinking fund, subject to repairs of houses and other contingencies, . . 33 8 9 L.87 12 L.87 12 Weaver, instituted in 1776. Revenue. House rants, . . • ^-^ ,^ ^ Contributions of 40 members at 4s. 3d. 8 lo o L.64 \0 Vi 388 ABERDEENSHIRE. Brought forward, L.64 10 Expenditure. Twenty-two annuitants at 10b. L.11 Twelve do. at Ids. . 9 Interest on L.600 borrowed, • 24 Present yearly sinking fund, subject to expenses of repairs on houses, &c. 9^^ 10 L.64 10 L.64 10 Gardener, instituted in 1760. Revenue. House rents, ...... L.45 Contributions of 10 members at 4s. . . 2 Expenditure. Forty annuitants at 15s. L.dO Eight annuitants at 9s. • 3 12 Interest of money borrowed, . 9 Present yearly sinking fund, subject to repairs on houses, &c. . . • 4 8 L.47 L.47 Buchan Farmer, instituted in Revenue. Rents of houses and interest of money lent, , L.I04 5 Contributions of 23 members at 5s. . 5 15 Expenditure. Ten annuitants at L.5, . ' L 50 Present yearly sinking fund, subject to expenses of repairs on houses, &c. 60 L.nO L.110 None of these Societies have as yet availed themselves of the information collected and published by the Highland and Agri- cultural Society, and prepared tables of the rates on which the members ought to be admitted and contribute to the funds accord- ing to their ages ; although some of them adopted the means of ascertaining the state of their funds a few years ago^ and altered the amount of their annuities accordingly. The Farmer Society has within these few years adopted a gra- duated scale for the admission of new members ; but it does not appear to have been prepared according to any correct data, nor with the view of the present state of the society's funds. By this scale each member of 25 years of age and under pays on admis- sion L.5. Those above 25 and under 41 years of age pay 10s. additional for every year their age exceeds 25; and those of 41 years of age and upwards pay L. 2 for every year exceeding 40. When the age of a member on admission exceeds by ten years that of his wife, he pays L. 2 additional of entrant dues for every year above. ten that his wife's age is under his own. When the PETERHEAD. 383 difference in the age does not exceed ten years^ there is no addi* Uonal payment required* Savings i^oiiA.— A Savings Bank was established in Peterhead in May 1824. It has been attended with very considerable bene- fit to the working-clasps. The treasurer and one of the directors attend every Tuesday night to receive deposits. The accounts are audited once a year, and have been found to be kept with the greatest accuracy. On the 9th of March 1837, there were 295 depositors, and, including periodical interest, the sum deposited amounted to L.2095, 7s. 2d. Poor and.Parochial Funds.^^The number of persons receiving pa- rochial aid is from 270 to 280, and the average allowance to regular paupers is about 15s. per annum. The annualaverage amount of con- tributions for relief of the poor is L.252; of which from L.160 to L. 1 70 arises from church collections, including the proportion of the collections from the East or quoad sacra Parish Church ; L.20 to L.25 derived fromthefeesfor the proclamation of banns, certificates, registration of births, &c appropriated to that purpose by the ses- sion at the appointment of the present clerk; L.22 to L.26 inte- rest of L.650 from 3^ to 4 per cent. ; about L. 10 a year from pe- nalties exacted in cases of church discipline, and for the use of the mortdoth ; and from legacies and donations, whichj of course, are variable, being seldom under L. 5, and more rarely exceeding L.50. No other mode of procuring funds for the poor has hither- to been adopted ; but, firom the increased number of claimants within the last few years, arising in part from the dissolution of friendly societies, it is probable that some other means mu3t soon be resorted to. Coal i^tmd— This fund was established about sixteen years ago. It is supported by voluntary contributions made annually about the beginning of the year, and is managed by the representatives of the congregations of every religious denomination in the town. The managers meet together and examine the claims of all appli- cants, and admit such cases as they know to be fit, whether the parties have made application or not. The objects of the charity are the poor belonging to the town ; and it has only been in a very few instances that parties in the country part of the parish have been allowed to participate in the benefits, in consequence of particular recommendation. The amount of donations has varied during the last sixteen years firom L. 53, 16s. 6d., the lowest, to L. 68, 2s., the high- 390 ABERDEENSHIRE. est The number of poor supplied with coals has also varied from 287 to 342, (the average number throughout the whole period having been 311,) and the quantity of coals given to each has been equal to 4^ cwts. As soon as the annual contributions are collected, the coals are distributed at that season of the year when the poor are in. the greatest want of them. The whole management reflects the greatest credit on those who have undertaken it, (it being con- ducted gratuitously,) and has given great satisfaction. The managers of the fund have received several small legacies, some of which they are left at liberty to apply to the purposes of the fund, and others are under the restriction, that only the annual rent shall be so applied. From the liberality of the public the managers have been enabled to reserve the whole amount of le- gacies, only applying the annual rents. These they have lent out on good security to the amount of L. 100, besides a small sum in the bank; and they intend, if circumstances permit, to act on the same laudable principle in regard to other legacies which may be left them by benevolent individuals. Pauper^ Lunatic^ and Orphan Fund. — An association was form- ed in 1827, under the name of the Peterhead Pauper, Lunatic, and Orphan Fund. It is supported by an annual collection from each of the congregations in the town, and by donations and be- quests. The objects entitled to relief from the fund are orphans and lunatics having a legal claim on the parish. This institution is managed by delegates appointed by the session and managers of the different churches. The present number of objects is ten lu- natics and ten orphans. The receipts and expe