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Island of Rasay, 1.—Brochel
Castle; Tradition respecting, 2.—Dr. Johnson's Remarks on Rasay, 3.
1. THE ruins of Brochel
Castle, almost the only object in Rasay (excepting the fossil contents of
its rocks) deserving of particular notice, form a scene that may serve as
the object of a day's excursion from Broadford. They are situated on the
north-east point of the island of Rasay ; and, as the distance is fifteen or
sixteen miles, it is prudent to take a four-oared boat. On leaving Broadford,
we pass a large house by the water-side, belonging to Mr. Mackinnon of
Corrychatachan. Our course lies between Scalpa, which possesses no features
of any interest, and a low, flat island, called Pabba. Crossing thence to
Rasay, we continue to coast along its eastern side, which consists of a
range of lofty and perpendicular cliffs, surmounted with patches of
cultivated ground. The base of the cliffs is in some places strewed with
large fragments of rock, and, looking upwards, we discover that the finger
of Time has been marking out other large portions for similar destruction.
The gradual advances, and final triumph of decay, lend additional interest
to the high and mural precipices, and afford numerous interesting studies of
rock scenery.
2. Brochel Castle stands in a
little bay, where the cliffs have sunk to a moderate height ; and the site
judiciously chosen for it is a conglomerate rock, the upper portion of which
is isolated, and detached from the surrounding strata. This rock consists of
two ledges; on the lower of which, rising from the very edge, is a small
building of two low storeys, having a narrow court within it; on the top of
the rock has been perched another diminutive building of two storeys, with
but one apartment in each, surmounted by battlements and a warder's room.
Two triangular and loop-holed recesses adjoining occupy all the remaining
space. The castle is quite inaccessible, save by the single approach which
has been cut on the side next the sea; and even here the ascent is so steep,
as to require the aid of one's hands in climbing it: the entrance is by a
steep, narrow, and roofed passage, between the lower building and the rock;
and, altogether, it is difficult to imagine a situation more happily adapted
for security and defence, in an age when the great engines of modern warfare
were unknown.
The following tradition,
regarding the building of the castle, is taken from the narrative of an old
man, an inhabitant of an adjoining hut. John More M'Gillicallum (a cadet of
the family of Macleod in the Lewis, commonly called Shiel Torquill) was
hunting in the hills of Glamack, near Sconser, in Skye, accompanied by a
henchman, who, from his great size and strength, was distinguished by the
name of Gillie-More. Their two dogs, while in pursuit of a deer, had got a
considerable way a-head, and out of sight. They were observed from a galley,
which was lying at anchor near the shore, by her commander, young Kreshinish,
who, seeing the dogs overtake their prey, went ashore, and had them and the
deer conveyed on board. Gillicallum coming up, demanded restitution of his
dogs:. Kreshinish refused compliance, and a scuffle ensued, which was
speedily ended by the latter receiving a death-blow from the powerful arm of
the Gillie-More. Some time thereafter the elder Kreshinish came to Skye to
seek for the murderer of his son; and, being at Dunvegan, in company with
'Macleod of Dunvegan, M'Donald of the Isles, and John More M'Gillicallum,
he, after dinner, produced a bag of silver, which he said he would give to
the man who would discover the name of the murderer. The Gillie-More
composedly walked into the hall, acknowledged himself author of the deed,
but desired to be allowed to explain the circumstances of it. Ile then
narrated the seizure of the dogs, and how young Kreshinish brought his death
upon himself by the uncourteous and unjustifiable detention of them. Seeing
no reason to doubt the truth of the story, Kreshinish expressed himself
perfectly satisfied ; but now the stalwart islesman claimed the promised
reward, which the sorrowing father unhesitatingly gave him. The Gillie-More,
determined to make a good use of his treasure, offered to give it to his
master, John More M`GilIicaIIum, on condition that he would expend it in
building a stronghold; to which the latter cheerfully agreeing, they settled
in Rasay, says the tradition, and built the Castle of Brochel.
3. Of the Island of Rasay,
Dr. Johnson said with truth, "that it has little that can detain a
traveller, except the Laird and his family; but their power wants no
auxiliaries. Such a seat of hospitality, amidst the winds and waters, fills
the imagination with a delightful contrariety of images. Without is the
rough ocean and the rocky land, the beating billows and the howling storm;
within is plenty and elegance, beauty and gaiety, the song and the dance. In
Rasay, if I could have found an Ulysses, I had fancied a Pheeacia." |
