The Herring Fisheries - The Lochfyne Fishery - The Pilchard - Herring
Commerce - Mr. Methuen -The Brand - The Herring Harvest - A Night at the
Fishing - The Cure - The Curers - Herring Boats -Increase of Netting -
Are we Overfishing? - Proposal for more Statistics.
Tim fisheries for the common herring, the pilchard, and
the sprat, are carried on, with a brief interval, all the year round; but
the great herring season is during the autumn-from August to October-when
the sea is covered with boats in pursuit of that fine fish, and in some of
its phases the herring-fishery assumes an aspect that is decidedly
picturesque. Every little bay all round the island has its tiny fleet ;
the mountain-closed lochs of the Western Highlands have each a fishery;
while at some of the more important fishing stations there are very large
fleets assembled-as at Wick, Dunbar, Ardrishaig, Stornoway, Peterhead, and
Anstruther. The chief carers have places of business in these towns, where
they keep a large store of curing materials, and a competent staff of
coopers and others to aid them in their business. Such boats as do not
carry on a local fishery proceed from the smaller fishing-villages to one
or other of the centres of the herring trade. In fact, wherever an
enterprising carer sets up his stand, there the boats will gather round
him ; and beside him will collect a crowd of all kinds of miscellaneous
people-dealers in salt, sellers of barrel-staves, vendors of "catch,"
Prussian herring-buyers, comely girls from the inland districts to gut,
and men from the Highlands anxious to officiate as "hired hands."
Itinerant ministers and revivalists also come on the scene and preach
occasional sermons to the hundreds of devout Scotch people who are
assembled ; and thus arises many a prosperous little town, or at least
towns that might be prosperous were the finny treasures of the sea always
plentiful. As the chief herring season comes on a kind of madness seizes
on all engaged, ever so remotely, in the trade; as for those more
immediately concerned, they seem to go completely "daft," especially the
younger hands. The old men, too, copse outside to view the annual
preparations, and talk, with revived enthusiasm, to their sons and
grandsons about what they did twenty years agone; the young men spread out
the shoulder-of-mutton sails of their boats to view and repair defects;
and the wives and sweethearts, by patching and darning, contrive to make
old nets "look amaist as weel as new;" boilers bubble with the brown
catechu, locally called "catch," which is used as a preservative for
the nets and sails; while all along the coasts old boats are being cobbled
up, and new ones are being built and launched.
The scene along the Scotch seaboard from Buckhaven to
Buckie is one of active preparation, and all concerned are hoping for a
"lucky" fishing; "winsome" young lassies are praying for the success of
their sweethearts' boats, because if the season turns out well they will
be married women at its close. Curers look sanguine, and the owners of
free boats seem happy. The little children too-those wonderful little
children one always finds in a fishing village, striving so manfully to
fill up "daddy's" old clothes-participate in the excitement: they have
their winter's "shoon" and "Sunday breeks" in perspective. At the quaint
village of Gamrie, at Macduff, or Buckie, the talk of old and young, on
coach or rail, from morning to night, is of herrings. There are
comparisons and calculations about "craps" and barrels, and "broke" and "splitbellies,"
and "full fish" and "links," and reminiscences of great hauls of former
years, and much figurative talk about prices and freights, and the cost of
telegraphic messages. Then, if the present fishery be dull, hopes are
expressed that the next one may be better. "Ony fish this mornin' ?" is
the first salutation of one neighbour to another : the very infants talk
about "herrin' ;" schoolboys steal them from the boats for the purpose of
aiding their negotiations with the gooseberry woman; while wandering
paupers are rewarded with one or two broken fish by good-natured fishers,
when "the take" has been so satisfactory as to warrant such largess. At
Wick the native population, augmented by four thousand strangers, wakens
into renewed life; it is like Doncaster on the approach of the St. Leger.
The summer-time of Wick's existence begins with the fishery: the shops are
painted on their outsides and are replenished within; the milliner and the
tailor exhibit their newest fashions; the hardware merchant flourishes his
most attractive frying-pans; the grocer amplifies his stock; and so for a
brief period all is couleur de rose.
They are not all practical fishermen who go down to the
sea for herring during the great autumnal fishing season. By far the
larger portion of those engaged in the capture of this fish - particularly
at the chief stations-are what are called "hired hands," a mixture of the
farmer, the mechanic, and the sailor; and this fact may account in some
degree for a portion of the accidents which are sure to occur in stormy
seasons. Many of these men are mere labourers at the herring fishery, and
have little skill in handling a boat; they are many of them farmers in the
Lewis, or, small crofters in the Isle of Skye. The real orthodox fisherman
is a different being, and he is the same everywhere. If you travel from
Banff to Bayonne you find that fishermen are unchangeable.
The men's work is all performed at sea, and, so far as
the capture of the herring is concerned, there is no display of either
skill or cunning. The legal mode of capturing the herring is to take it by
means of what is called a drift-net. The herringfishery, it must be borne
in mind, is regulated by Act of Parliament, by which the exact means and
mode of capture are explicitly laid down. A drift-net is an instrument
made of fine twine worked into a series of squares, each of which is an
inch, so as to allow plenty of room for the escape of young herrings. Nets
for herring are measured by the barrel-bulk, and each barrel will hold two
nets, each net being fifty yards long and thirty-two feet deep. The larger
fishing-boats carry something like a mile of these nets; some, at any
rate, carry a drift which will extend two thousand yards in length. These
drifts are composed of many separate nets, fastened together by means of
what is called a back-rope, and each separate net of the series is marked
off by a buoy or bladder which is attached to it, the whole being sunk in
the sea by means of a leaden or other weight, and fastened to the boat by
a longer or shorter trail-rope, according to the depth in the water at
which it is expected to find the herrings. This formidable apparatus,
which forms a great perforated wall, being let into the sea immediately
after sunset, floats or drifts with the tide, so as to afford the herring
an opportunity of striking against it, and so becoming captured-in fact
they are drowned in the nets. The boats engaged in the drift-net fishing
are of various sizes, and are strongly and carefully built: the largest,
being upwards of thirty-five feet keel, with a large drift of nets and
good sail and mast, will cost something like a sum of £300. The other mode
of fishing for herrings, which has existed for about a quarter of a
century, is known as trawling. In the west of Scotland, on Lochfyne in
particular, where it is practised, it is called "trawling ;" but the
instrument of capture is in reality a" seine " net ; and, so far as the
size of the mesh is concerned, is all right.
The pilchard is generally captured by means of the
seine-net, and we never hear of its being injured thereby. It is also
cured in large quantities, the same as the herring, although the modus
operandi is somewhat different. The pilchard was at one time, like the
herring, thought to be a migratory fish, but it has been found, as in the
case of the common herring, to be a native of our own seas. In some years
the pilchard has been known to shed its spawn in May, but the usual time
is October. Their food is small crustaceous animals, as their stomachs are
frequently crammed with a small kind of shrimp, and the supply of this
kind of food is thought to be enormous. When on the coast, the assemblage
of pilchards assumes an arrangement like that of a great army, and the
vast shoal is known to be made up by the coming together of smaller bodies
of that fish, and these frequently separate and rejoin, and are constantly
shifting their position. The pilchard is not now so numerous as it was a
few years ago, but very large hauls are still occasionally obtained.
Great excitement prevails on the coast of Cornwall
during the pilchard season. Persons watch the water from the coast, and
signal to those who are in search of the fish the moment they perceive
indications of a shoal. These watchers are locally called "huers," and
they are provided with signals of white calico or branches of trees, with
which to direct the course of the boat, and to inform those in charge when
they are upon the fish-the shoal being best seen from the cliffs. The
pilchards are captured by the seine-net-that is, the shoal, or spot of a
shoal, that has risen, is completely surrounded by a wall of netting, the
principal boat and its satellites the volyer and the lurker, with the "
stop-nets," having so worked as quite to overlap each other's wall of
canvas. The place where the joining of the two nets is formed is carefully
watched, to see that none of the fish escape at that place, and if it be
too open, the fish are beaten back with the oars of some of the persons
attending-about eighteen in all. In due time the seine is worked or hauled
into shallow water for the convenience of getting out the fish, and it may
perhaps contain pilchards sufficient to fill two thousand hogsheads.
Generally speaking, four or five seines will be at work together, giving
employment to a great number of the people, who may have been watching for
the chance during many days. When the tide falls the men commence to bring
ashore the fish, a tuck-net worked inside of the seine being used for
safety ; and the large shallow dipper boats required for bringing the fish
to the beach may be seen sunk to the water's edge with their burden, as
successive bucketfuls are taken out of the nets and emptied into these
conveyance vessels. To give the reader an idea of quantity, as connected
with pilchard-fishing, I may state that it takes nearly three thousand
fish to fill a hogshead. I have heard of a shoal being captured that took
a fortnight to bring ashore.
Ten thousand hogsheads of pilchards have been known to
be taken in one port in a day's time. The convenience of keeping the shoal
in the water is obvious, as the fish need not be withdrawn from it till it
is convenient to salt them. The fish are salted in curing-houses, great
quantities of them being piled up into huge stacks, alternate layers of
salt and fish. During the process of curing a large quantity of useful oil
exudes from the heaps. The salting process is called " bulking," and the
fish are built up into stacks with great regularity, where they are
allowed to remain for four weeks, after which they are washed and freed
from the oil, then packed into hogsheads, and sent to Spain and Italy, to
be extensively consumed during Lent, as well as at other fasting times.
The hurry and bustle at any of the little Cornwall ports during the
manipulation of a few shoals of pilchards must be seen, the excitement
cannot be very well described. The pilchard is, or rather it ought to be,
the Sardinia of commerce, but its place is usurped by the sprat, or
garvie as we call it in Scotland, and thousands of tin boxes of that fish
are annually made up and sold as sardines. I have already alluded to the
sprat, so far as its natural history is concerned. It is a fish that is
very abundant in Scotland, especially in the Firth of Forth, where for
many years there has been a good sprat-fishery. We do not now require to
go to France for our sardines, as we can cure them at home in the French
style.
Sprats, whether they be young herrings or no, are very
plentiful in the winter months, and afford a supply of wholesome food of
the fish kind to many who are unable to procure more expensive kinds. When
the fishing for garvies (sprats) was stopped a few years ago
by order of the Board of White Fisheries, there was
quite a sensation in Edinburgh; and an agitation was got up that
has resulted in a partial resumption of the fishing, which is of
considerable value-about £50,000 in the Firth of Forth alone.
Commerce in herring is entirely
different from commerce in any other article, particularly in Scotland. In
fact the fishery, as at present conducted, is just another way of
gambling. The home "curers" and foreign buyers are the persons who at
present keep the herring-fishery from stagnating, and the goods (i.e. the
fish) are generally all bought and sold long before they are captured. The
way of dealing in herring is pretty much as follows: - Owners of boats are
engaged to fish by curers, the bargains being usually that the curer will
take two hundred crans of herring - and a cran, it may be stated, is
forty-five gallons of ungutted fish; for these two hundred crans a certain
sum per cran is paid according to arrangement, the bargain including as
well a definite sum of ready money by way of bounty, perhaps also an
allowance of spirits, and the use of ground for the drying of the nets. On
the other hand, the boat-owner provides a boat, nets, buoys, and all the
apparatus of the fishery, and engages a crew to fish ; his crew may,
perhaps, be relatives and part-owners sharing the venture with him, but
usually the crew consists of hired men who get so much wages at the end of
the season, and have no risk or profit. This is the plan followed by free
and independent fishermen who are really owners of their own boats' and
apparatus. It will thus be seen that the curer is bargaining for two
hundred crans of fish months before he knows that a single herring will be
captured ; for the bargain of next season is always made at the close of
the present one, and he has to pay out at once a large sum by way of
bounty, and provide barrels, salt, and other necessaries for the cure
before he knows even if the catch of the season just expiring will all be
sold, or how the markets will pulsate next year. On the other hand, the
fisherman has received his pay for his season's fish, and very likely
pocketed a sum of from ten to thirty pounds as earnest-money for next
year's work. Then, again, a certain number of curers, who are men of
capital, will advance money to young fishermen in order that they may
purchase a boat and the necessary quantity of netting to enable them to
engage in the fishery - thus thirling the boat to their service, very
probably fixing an advantageous price per cran for the herrings to be
fished and supplied. Curers, again, who are not capitalists, have to
borrow from the buyers, because to compete with their fellows they must be
able to lend money for the purchase of boats and nets, or to advance sums
by way of bounty to the free boats ; and thus a rotten unwholesome system
goes the round-fishermen, boat-builders, curers, and merchants, all
hanging on each other, and evidencing that there is as much gambling in
herring-fishing as in horse-racing. The whole system of commerce connected
with this trade is decidedly unhealthy, and ought at once to be checked
and reconstructed if there be any logical method of doing it. At a port of
three hundred boats a sum of £145 was paid by the curers for "arles," and
spent in the public-houses ! More than S4000 was paid in bounties, and an
advance of nearly £7000 made on the various contracts, and all this money
was paid eight months before the fishing began. When the season is a
favourable one, and plenty of fish are taken, then all goes well, and the
evil day is postponed; but if, as in one or two recent seasons, the take
is poor, then there comes a crash. One falls, and, like a row of bricks,
the others all follow. At the large fishing stations there are
comparatively few of the boats that are thoroughly free; they are tied up
in some way between the buyers and curers, or they are in pawn to some
merchant who " backs " the nominal owner. The principal, or at least the
immediate sufferers by these arrangements are the hired men.
This "bounty," as it is called, is a most reprehensible
feature of herring commerce, and although still the prevalent mode of
doing business, has been loudly declaimed against by all who have the real
good of the fishermen at heart. Often enough men who have obtained boats
and nets on credit, and hired persons to assist them during the fishery,
are so unfortunate as not to catch enough of herrings to pay their
expenses. The curers for whom they engaged to fish having retained most of
the bounty money on account of boats and nets, consequently the hired
servants have frequently in such cases to go home -sometimes to a great
distance-penniless. It would be much better if the old system of a share
were re-introduced : in that case the hired men would at least participate
to the extent of the fishing, whether it were good or bad. Boat-owners try
of course to get as good terms as possible, as well in the shape of price
for herrings as in bounty and perquisites. My idea is that there ought to
be no " engagements," no bounty, and no perquisites. As each fishing comes
round let the boats catch, and the curers buy day by day as the fish
arrive at the quay. This plan has already been adopted at some
fishing-towns, and is an obvious improvement on the prevailing plan of
gambling by means of "engagements" in advance.
In fact, this fishery is best described when it is
called a lottery. No person knows what the yield will be till the last
moment : it may be abundant, or it may be a total failure, Agriculturists
are aware long before the reaping season whether their crops are light or
heavy, and they arrange accordingly ; but if we are to believe the
fishermen, his harvest is entirely a matter of "luck." It is this belief
in "luck" which is, in a great degree, the cause of our fisher-folk not
keeping pace with the times: they are greatly behind in all matters of
progress; our fishing towns look as if they were, so to speak,
stereotyped. It is a woeful time for the fisher-folk when the herrings
fail them ; for this great harvest of the sea, which needs no tillage of
the husbandman, the fruits of which are reaped without either sowing seed
or paying rent, is the chief industry that the bulk of the coast
population depend upon for a good sum of money. The fishing is the bank,
in which they have opened, and perhaps exhausted, a cash-credit; for often
enough the balance is on the wrong side of the ledger, even after the
fishing season has come and gone. In other words, new boats have to be
paid for out of the fishing; new clothes, new houses, additional nets, and
even weddings, are all dependent on the herring-fishery. It is notable
that after a favourable season the weddings among the fishing populations
are very numerous. The anxiety for a good season may be noted all along
the British coasts, from Newhaven to Yarmouth, or from Crail to Wick.
The highest prices are paid for the early fish,
contracts for these in a cured state being sometimes fixed as high as
forty-five shillings per barrel. These are at once despatched to Germany,
in the inland towns of which a prime salt herring of the early cure is
considered a great luxury, fetching sometimes the handsome price of one
shilling ! Great quantities of cured herrings are sent to Stettin or other
German ports, and so eager are some of the merchants for an early supply
that in the beginning of the season they purchase quantities unbranded,
through! the agency of the telegraph. On those parts of the
coast where the communication with large towns is easy, considerable
quantities of herring are purchased fresh, for transmission to Birmingham,
Manchester, and other inland cities. Buyers attend for that purpose, and
send them off frequently in an open truck, with only a slight covering to
protect them from the sun. It is needless to say that a fresh herring is
looked upon as a luxury in such places, and a demand exists that would
exhaust any supply that could be sent.
Having explained the relation of the curers to the
trade, I must now speak of the cure-the greater number of the herrings
caught on the coast of Scotland being pickled in salt ; a result
originally, no doubt, of the want of speedy modes of transit to large
seats of population, where herrings would be largely consumed if they
could arrive in a sufficiently fresh state to be palatable. At stations
about Wick the quantity of herrings disposed of fresh is comparatively
small, so that by far the larger portion of the daily catch has to be
salted. This process during a good season employs a very large number of
persons, chiefly as coopers and gutters ; and, as the barrels have to be
branded, by way of certificate of the quality of their contents, it is
necessary that the salting should be carefully done. As soon as the
boats reach the harbour - and as the fishing is appointed
to be carried on after sunset they arrive very early in the morning - the
various crews commence to carry their fish to the reception-troughs of the
curers by whom they have been engaged. A person in the interest of the
curer checks the number of crans brought in, and sprinkles the fish from
time to time with considerable quantities of salt. As soon as a score or
two of baskets have been emptied, the gutters set earnestly to do their
portion of the work, which is dirty and disagreeable in the extreme. The
gutters usually work in companies of about five-one or two gutting, one or
two carrying, and another packing. Basketfuls
of the fish, so soon as they are gutted, are carried to
the back of the yard, and plunged into a large tub, there to be roused and
mixed up with salt ; then the adroit and active packer seizes a handful
and arranges them with the greatest precision in a barrel, a handful of
salt being thrown over each layer as it is put in, so that, in the short
space of a few minutes, the large barrel is crammed full with many hundred
fish, all gutted, roused, and packed, in a period of not more than ten
minutes. As the fish settle down in the barrel, more are added from day to
day till it is thoroughly full and ready for the brand. On the proper
performance of these parts of the business the quality of the cured fish
very much depends.The
following detailed description of the "herring-harvest," as gathered in
the Moray Firth, may be of interest to the general reader. It is
reprinted, by permission, from a paper contributed by the author to the
Cornhill Magazine :
The boats usually start for the
fishing-ground an hour or two before sunset, and are generally manned by
four men and a boy, in addition to the owner or skipper. The nets, which
have been carried inland in the morning, in order that they might be
thoroughly dried, have been brought to the boat in a cart or waggon. On
board there is a keg of water and a bag of bread or hard biscuit; and in
addition to these simple necessaries, our boat contains a bottle of whisky
which we have presented by way of paying our footing. The name of our
skipper is Francis Sinclair, and a very gallant-looking fellow he is ; and
as to his dress-why, his boots alone would ensure the success of a Surrey
melodrama; and neither Truefit nor Ross could satisfactorily imitate his
beard and whiskers. Having got safely on board-a rather difficult matter
in a crowded harbour, where the boats are elbowing each other for room-we
contrive, with some labour, to work our way out of the narrow-necked
harbour into the bay, along with the nine hundred and ninety-nine boats
that are to accompany us in our night's avocation. The heights of
Pulteneytown, which commands the quays, are covered with spectators
admiring the pour-out of the herring fleet and wishing with all their
hearts " God speed " to the venturers ; old salts who have long retired
from active seamanship are counting their " takes " over again ; and the
curer is mentally reckoning up the morrow's catch. Janet and Jeanie are
smiling a kindly good-bye to " faither," and hoping for the safe return of
Donald or Murdoch; and crowds of people are scattered on the heights, all
taking various degrees of interest in the scene, which is stirringly
picturesque to the eye of the tourist, and suggestive to the thoughtful
observer.
Bounding gaily over the waves, which
are crisping and curling their crests under the influence of the
land-breeze, our shoulder-of-mutton sail filled with a good capful of
wind, we hug the rocky coast, passing the ruined tower known as "the Old
Man of Wick," which serves as a capital landmark for the fleet. Soon the
red sun begins to dip into the golden west, burnishing the waves with
lustrous crimson and silver, and against the darkening eastern sky the
thousand sails of the herring-fleet blaze like sheets of flame. The shore
becomes more and more indistinct, and the beetling cliffs assume fantastic
and weird shapes, whilst the moaning waters rush into deep cavernous
recesses with a wild and monotonous sough, that falls on the ear with a
deeper and a deeper melancholy, broken only by the shrill wail of the
herring-gull. A dull hot haze settles on the scene, through which the
coppery rays of the sun penetrate, powerless to cast a shadow. The scene
grows more and more picturesque as the glowing sails of the fleet fade
into grey specks dimly seen. Anon the breeze freshens and our boat cleaves
the water with redoubled speed : we seem to sail farther and farther into
the gloom, until the boundary-line between sea and shore becomes lost to
the sight.
We ought to have shot our nets
before it became so dark, but our skipper, being anxious to hit upon the
right place, so as to save a second shooting, tacked up and down,
uncertain where to take up his station. We had studied the movements of
certain "wise men" of the fishery-men who are always lucky, and who find
out the fish when others fail; but our crew became impatient when they
began to smell the water, which had an oily gleam upon it indicative of
herring, and sent out from the bows of the boat bright phosphorescent
sparkles of light. The men several times thought they were right over the
fish, but the skipper knew better. At last, after a lengthened cruise, our
commander, who had been silent for half-an-hour, jumped up and called to
action. "Up, men, and at 'em," was then the order of the night. The
preparations for shooting the nets at once began by our lowering sail.
Surrounding us on all sides was to be seen a moving world of boats ; many
with their sails down, their nets floating in the water, and their crews
at rest, indulging in fitful snatches of sleep. Other boats again were
still flitting uneasily about; their skippers, like our own, anxious to
shoot in the best place, but as yet uncertain where to cast: they wait
till they see indications of fish in other nets. By and by we are
ourselves ready, the sinker goes splash into the water, the "dog" (a large
bladder, or inflated skin of some kind, to mark the far end of the train)
is heaved overboard, and the nets, breadth after breadth, follow as fast
as the men can pay them out (each division being marked by a large painted
bladder), till the immense train sinks into the water, forming a
perforated wall a mile long and many feet in depth; the "dog" and the
marking bladders floating and dipping in a long zigzag line, reminding one
of the imaginary coils of the great sea-serpent.
Wrapped in the folds of a sail and
rocked by the heaving waves we tried in vain to snatch a brief nap, though
those who are accustomed to such beds can sleep well enough in a
herringboat. The skipper, too, slept with one eye open; for the boat being
his property, and the risk all his, he required to look about him, as the
nets are apt to become entangled with those belonging to other fishermen,
or to be torn away by surrounding boats. After three hours' quietude,
beneath a beautiful sky, the stars
" Those eternal orbs that beautify
the night "
began to pale their fires, and the
grey dawn appearing indicated that it was time to take stock. On reckoning
up we found that we had floated gently with the tide till we were a long
distance away from the harbour. The skipper had a presentiment that there
were fish in his nets; indeed the bobbing down of a few of the bladders
had made it almost a certainty; at any rate we resolved to examine the
drift, and see if there were any fish. It was a moment of suspense, while,
by means of the swing-rope, the boat was hauled up to the nets. "Hurrah!"
at last exclaimed Murdoch of the Isle of Skye, "there's a lot of fish,
skipper, and no mistake." Murdoch's news was true ; our nets were silvery
with herrings-so laden, in fact, that it took a long time to haul them in.
It was a beautiful sight to see the shimmering fish as they came up like a
sheet of silver from the water, each uttering a weak death-chirp as it was
flung to the bottom of the boat. Formerly the fish were left in the meshes
of the nets till the boat arrived in the harbour ; but now, as the net is
hauled on board, they are at once shaken out. As our silvery treasure
showers into the boat we roughly guess our capture at fifty crans - a
capital night's work.
The herrings being all on board, our
duty is now to "up sail " and get home : the herrings cannot be too soon
among the salt. As we make for the harbour, we discern at once how rightly
the term lottery has been applied to the herring-fishery, Boats which
fished quite near our own were empty; while others again greatly exceeded
our catch. "It is entirely chance work," said our skipper; "and although
there may sometimes be millions of fish in the bay, the whole fleet may
not divide a hundred crans between them." On some occasions, however, the
shoal is hit so exactly that the fleet may bring into the harbour a
quantity of fish that in the gross would be an ample fortune. So heavy are
the "takes " occasionally, that we have known the nets of many boats to be
torn away and lost through the sheer weight of the fish which were
enmeshed in them.
The favouring breeze soon carried us
to the quay, where the boats were already arriving in hundreds, and where
we were warmly welcomed by the wife of our skipper, who bestowed on us, as
the lucky cause of the miraculous draught, a very pleasant smile. When we
arrived the cure was going on with startling rapidity. The night had been
a golden one for the fishers - calm and beautiful, the water being merely
rippled by the land-breeze. But it is not always so in the Bay of Wick ;
the herring-fleet has been more than once overtaken by a fierce storm,
when valuable lives have been lost, and thousands of pounds' worth of
netting and boats destroyed. On such occasions the gladdening sights of
the herring-fishery are changed to wailing and sorrow. It is no wonder
that the heavens are eagerly scanned as the boats marshal their way out of
the harbour, and the speck on the distant horizon keenly watched as it
grows into a mass of gloomy clouds. As the song says, "Caller herrin' "
represent the lives of men ; and many a despairing wife and mother can
tell a sad tale of the havoc created by the summer gales on our exposed
northern coast.
From the heights of Pulteneytown,
overlooking the quays and curers' stations, one has before him, as it
were, an extended plain, covered with thousands and tens of thousands of
barrels, interspersed at short distances with the busy scene of delivery,
of packing, and of salting, and all the bustle and detail attendant on the
cure. It is a scene difficult to describe, and has ever struck those
witnessing it for the first time with wonder and surprise.
Having visited Wick in the very heat
of the season, and for the express purpose of gaining correct information
about this important branch of our national industry, I am enabled to
offer a slight description of the place and its appurtenances. Travellers
by the steamboat usually arrive at the very time the "herring-drave" is
making for the harbour; and a beautiful sight it is to see the magnificent
fleet of boats belonging to the district, radiant in the light of the
rising sun, all steadily steering to the one point, ready to add a large
quota to the wealth of industrial Scotland. As we wend our way from the
little jagged rock at which we are landed by the small boat attendant on
the steamer, we obtain a glimpse of the one distinguishing feature of the
town-the herring commerce. On all sides we are surrounded by herring. On
our left hand countless basketfuls are being poured into the immense
gutting-troughs, and on the right hand there are countless basketfuls
being carried from the three or four hundred boats which are ranged on
that particular side of the harbour; and behind the troughs more
basketfuls are being carried to the packers. The very infants are seen
studying the " gentle art;" and a little mob of breechless boys are busy
hooking up the silly "poddlies." All around the atmosphere is humid ; the
sailors are dripping, the herring-gutters and packers are dripping, and
every thing and person appears wet and comfortless ; and as you pace along
you are nearly ankle-deep in brine. Meantime the herrings are being
shovelled about in the large shallow troughs with immense wooden spades,
and with very little ceremony. Brawny men pour them from baskets on their
shoulders into the aforesaid troughs, and other brawny men dash them about
with more wooden spades, and then sprinkle salt over each new parcel as it
is poured in, till there is a sufficient quantity to warrant the
commencement of the important operation of gutting and packing. Men are
rushing wildly about with note-books, making mysterious-looking entries.
Carts are being filled with dripping nets ready to hurry them off to the
fields to dry. The screeching of saws among billet-wood, and the plashing
of the neighbouring water-wheel, add to the great babel of sound that
deafens you on every side. Flying about, blood-bespattered and hideously
picturesque, we observe the gutters ; and on all hands we may note
thousands of herring-barrels, and piles of billet-wood ready to convert
into staves At first sight every person looks mad-some appear so from
their costume, others from their manner-and the confusion seems
inextricable; but there is method in their madness, and even out of the
chaos of Wick harbour comes regularity, as I have endeavoured to show.
So soon as a sufficient quantity of
fish has been brought from the boats and emptied into the gutting troughs,
another of the great scenes commences - viz, the process of evisceration,
This is performed by females, hundreds of whom annually find wellpaid
occupation at the gutting-troughs. It is a bloody business ; and the
gaily-dressed and dashing females whom we had observed lounging about the
curing yards, waiting for the arrival of the fish, are soon most
wonderfully transmogrified. They of course put on a suit of apparel
adapted to the business they have in hand-generally of oil-skin, and often
much worn. Behold them, then, about ten or eleven o'clock in the forenoon,
when the gutting scene is at its height, and after they have been at work
for an hour or so : their hands, their necks, their busts, their
"Dreadful faces throng'd, and fiery
arms "
their every bit about them, fore and
aft, are spotted and besprinkled o'er with little scarlet clots of gills
and guts; or, as Southey says of Don Roderick, after the last and fatal
fight
" Their flanks incarnadined,
Their poitral smear'd with Mood "
See yonder trough, surrounded by a
score of fierce eviscerators, two of them wearing the badge of widowhood !
How deftly they ply the knife ! It is ever a bob down to seize a herring,
and a bob up to throw it into the basket, and the operation is over. It is
performed with lightning-like rapidity by a mere turn of the hand, and
thirty or forty fish are operated upon before you have time to note sixty
ticks of your watch. These ruthless widows seize upon the dead herrings
with such a fierceness as almost to denote revenge for their husbands'
deaths ; for they, alas ! fell victims to the herring lottery, and the
widows scatter about the gills and guts as if they had no bowels of
compassion.
In addition to herrings that are
pickled and those sold in a fresh state, great numbers are made into what
are called " bloaters," or transformed into " reds." At Yarmouth, immense
quantities of bloaters and reds are annually prepared for the English
markets. The bloaters are very slightly cured and as slightly smoked,
being prepared for immediate sale ; but the herrings brought into Yarmouth
are cured in various ways: the
bloaters are for quick sale and speedy consumption ;
then there is a special cure for fish sent to the Mediterranean-"
Straitsmen " I think these are called ; then there are the black herrings,
which have a really fine flavour. In fact the Yarmouth herrings are so
cured as to be suitable to particular markets. It may interest the general
reader to know that the name of "bloater" is derived from the herring
beginning to swell or bloat during the process of curing. Small logs f oak
are burned to produce the smoke, and the fish are all put on "spits" which
are run through the gills. The " spitters " of Yarmouth are quite as
dexterous as the gutters of Wick, 4 woman being able to spit a last per
day. Like the gutters and packers of Wick, the spitters of Yarmouth work
in gangs. The fish, after being hung and smoked, are packed in barrels,
each containing seven hundred and fifty fish.
The Yarmouth boats do not return to harbour every
morning, like the Scotch boats; being decked vessels of some size, from
fifty to eighty tons, costing about £1000, and having stowage for about
fifty lasts of herrings, they are enabled to remain at sea for some days,
usually from three to six, and of course they are able to use their small
boats in the fishery, a man or two being left in charge of the large
vessel, while the majority of the hands are out in the boats fishing.
There has always been a busy herring-fishery at the port of Yarmouth. A
century ago upwards of two hundred vessels were fitted out for the
herring-fishery, and these afforded employment to a large number of
people-as many as six thousand being employed in one way or the other in
connection with the fishery. The Yarmouth boats or busses are not unlike
the boats once used in Scotland, which have been already described. They
carry from fifteen to twenty lasts of herrings (a last, counted
fisher-wise, is more than 13,000 herrings, but nominally it is 10,000
fish), and are manned with some fourteen men or boys.
The following summary of the official statistics issued
by the Board for the fishing of 1872
will give the reader an idea of the present
state of this important industry. The information laid before Parliament
about the capture and branding of herrings during the year 1872 is fuller
than usual, and is of more than usual interest, setting forth as it does
the increasing value which is attached by curers to the brand, and giving
at the same time a series of minute details of the great improvement
annually being effected in the construction of fishing boats and the
increase of the number. The Fishery Board can only take cognizance of the
herrings which are cured (i.e. salted), as no machinery exists for
tabulating those quantities which are sold "fresh," but it would not,
perhaps, be an exaggeration to consider the quantities of the latter as
being equal to the number cured, which was last year 773,859 barrels, as
against 825,475 barrels in 1871. Calculating, in a rough way, each barrel
to contain 800 fish, that would give a total of 619,087,200 cured
herrings, while that number doubled might give a tolerable approximation
of the total capture of herrings on the coast of Scotland. As regards the
numbers captured off the Isle of Man, at Yarmouth, and other English
fisheries, we have no authentic information-no statistics being taken of
the English herring or other fisheries. The following figures denote the
quantities of herrings which have been cured in Scotland
during the last six years-a period which
affords a very fair idea of the fluctuations incidental to this fishery:
Year |
Barrels |
Year |
Barrels |
1867 |
825,589 |
1870 |
833,160 |
1868 |
651,433 |
1871 |
825,475 |
1869 |
675,143 |
1872 |
773,859 |
The Commissioners state that, at the rate of 4d. per
barrel a sum of 17045 : 10 : 6 was derived in 1872 from the exercise of
the brand, which is the largest amount yet obtained in any one year since
payments for branding were exacted. For branding portions of the take of
the above six years a sum of £30,669 : 4 : 2 was taken by the Board;
which, as the payment of fees is not compulsory, shows that the brand, as
an official certificate of cure, is greatly appreciated by a considerable
body of the Scottish curers; the number of barrels branded last year being
422,731, or more than half of the quantity which was cured. It is
estimated by the Commissioners that the fees taken for branding yielded in
1872 a profit to the Government of X3765. As already stated the quantity
of herrings cured in 1872 was 773,859 barrels, and of these, as has been
shown, 422,731 barrels were branded, a proportion which is larger than
that of any preceding year, and proves, say the Commissioners, "the care
with which the herrings were selected for market." The Commissioners also
say that, "considering the great extent of the herring fishery, that it is
carried on at night, the rough weather to which the boats are often
exposed, the unavoidable hurry with which they are unloaded to get the
fish into the curing stations as soon as possible after they are
caught-the number of mixed hands then put upon them to gut and pack, and
the rapidity with which that work has to be done, it speaks well for the
existing organisation of the fisheries of Scotland that 54 per cent of the
total cure, or more than one half, should have reached the high standard
required by the Board." Another feature which is brought out by the
Commissioners in connection with the brand is, that the quantity branded
this year bears an unusual proportion to the quantity exported, which was
549,631 barrels; showing that only 126,900 barrels were exported which
were not branded, a number which, though it may seem considerable, is
small when analysed; for it includes ungutted fish, also the export to
Ireland, which consists for the most part of fish not originally selected
for first-class cure ; also the greater part of the fish from the early
herring fishery of the Hebrides prepared for immediate sale. In short, the
quantity exported is 71 per cent of the quantity cured, and the quantity
branded is 77 per cent of the quantity exported, thus showing that more
than three-fourths of the export trade consists of branded herrings. The
highest years of branding previous to 1872 were the years 1820, 1862, and
1871. The branding in these years was:- In 1820, 363,872 barrels; in 1862,
346,712 barrels; in 1871, 346,663 barrels; in 1872, 422,731 barrels. The
branding of 1872 has therefore exceeded the branding of 1820 by 58,859
barrels, equal to 16 per cent of increase, and has exceeded the branding
of 1862 by 76,019 barrels, and of 1871 by 76,098 barrels, equal in each of
these years to 22 per cent of increase. In this comparison it is to be
remarked further, that the year 1820 includes brandings at stations in
England, and that the brand was given at that time not only without the
charge of a fee, but with a bounty upon it paid by the Government ; a
bounty which amounted for the year 1820 to upwards of £72,000. It is
therefore remarkable to see Scotland alone, without England, and without
the stimulus of a bounty, relieving Government by an annual payment which
could reach in a year £72,000, and substituting instead a return from
branding which has already paid to Government upwards of £63,000, and
which yielded as its collection in 1872 the sum of £7045 : 10: 6.
An improved order of fishing boat has of late come
prominently into use in the Scottish herring-fishery. Decked boats are now
coming greatly into use, and in time will entirely supplant the
old-fashioned open boats. Upon the east coast particularly, nearly every
new boat now built is bigger than the one it displaces, and although the
decked vessels cost much more money than the open boats, the return which
they yield is commensurate with the cost. At some fishing places the gains
of those crews fishing with decked vessels ranged in 1872 from £100 to
£550 per boat, while the money taken by other crews about the same place
who fished with open boats did not exceed £160, that being the highest
amount reached, some crews only realising £60 for their season's
adventure. The decked boats cost about £200 each, and it is thought by the
builders that there will not be less than 600 of this class of vessels at
work in the fishery of this year. Already at Buckie, on the Banffshire
coast, there are 400 such vessels engaged in the fishing, and in every
important fishery district the boatbuilders are at work adding to the
fleet. "No fisherman would now," say the Commissioners, "undertake fishing
with boats and nets of the kind which were in use a century ago, and the
increase in the number of boats and fishermen during the last ten years
yields conclusive evidence of the steadily advancing prosperity of the
Scottish fisheries. We gather from the current report that the number of
fishing boats belonging to Scotland in 1862 was 12,545, and that, in the
ten years which have elapsed since, that number has increased at the rate
of 260 boats per annum, and the total number of Scottish boats now engaged
in the fisheries is 15,232. In 1862 the number of fishermen in Scotland
was 41,008, but the number now is 46,178, being an increase in ten years
of 5170 fishermen, or an average of 500 per year. The value of the boats
and fishing gear was estimated in the year 1862 at £747,794, and in 1872
at £997,293, being an increase in ten years of £249,499, equal to an
annual average of about £25,000. "In boats, and in the condition of the
fishermen, the fisheries of Scotland may therefore be regarded as
thriving."
As to the takes of herring at the different fishing
districts, the report of the fishery of 1872 records the usual
fluctuations - an increase in one district, a decline in another. At
Fraserburgh and Peterhead the fishing of 1872 was remarkably successful,
as also at Aberdeen, where the fishery is only of recent development. At
these places larger quantities of herring were cured last year than ever
were cured before. Upon the west coast the fishing was again deficient,
the Lewes fishery being far less productive than in former seasons. At
Campbeltown the fishery was very prolific, the fishing of 1872 being the
most successful of any year of which there is a record in the district.
The winter herring fishery of the Firth of Forth was very deficient in
productiveness, but the sprat fishery proved only too abundantly
productive, as the quantity of sprats taken began to exceed the demand. At
one time sprats were selling as low as a 1s. per barrel.
The herring fishery of 1873 has been more than usually
productive, but no official statistics regarding it will be procurable
till next year. At some of the stations the curers were unable to operate
in consequence of an exhaustion of the materials of cure. Boats so seldom
reach an average of more than sixty crans that, in seasons when that
quantity is exceeded, the curer, counting on the average, is sure to be
found unprepared-hence large quantities of the fish are wasted, and a cry
is circulated of a prolific fishery, and men triumphantly point to the
fact, and ask What about "the fished-up" theory now? But the answer is not
far to seek : the number of boats and extent of netting ought to capture
double-nay treble-the quantity of herring they have taken this year, or
any previous year in which the take has been larger: Because the curers
have run out of the materials of cure the cry has arisen that we have had
a great fishery !
The quantity of netting now employed in the
herring-fishery is enormous, and is increasing from year to year. It has
been strongly represented by Mr. Cleghorn, and others who hold his
views, that the herring-fishery is on the decline ; that if the fish were
as plentiful as in former years, the increased amount of netting would
capture an increased number of herrings. It is certain that, with a
growing population and an increasing facility of transport, we are able to
use a far larger quantity of sea produce now than we could do fifty years
ago, when we were in the pre-Stephenson age. If, with our present
facilities for the transport of fish to inland towns, Great Britain had
been a Catholic instead of a Protestant country, having the example of the
French fisheries before us, I have no hesitation in saying that by this
time our fisheries would have been completely exhausted-that is, supposing
no remedial steps had been taken to guard against such a contingency. Were
we compelled to observe Lent with Catholic rigidity, and had there been
numerous fasts or fish-days, as there used to be in England before the
Reformation, the demand, judging from our present ratio, would have been
greater than the sea could have borne. Interested parties may sneer at
these opinions ; but, notwithstanding, I maintain that the pitcher is
going too often to the well, and that some day soon it will come back
empty.
I have always been slow to believe in the
inexhaustibility of the shoals, and can easily imagine the overfishing,
which some people pooh-pooh so glibly, to be quite possible, especially
when supplemented by the cod and other cannibals so constantly at work,
and so well described by the Lochfyne Commission; not that I believe it
possible to pick up or kill every fish of a shoal; but, as I have already
hinted, so many are taken, and the economy of the shoal so disturbed, that
in all probability it may change its ground or amalgamate with some other
herring colony. I shall be met here by the old argument, that "the
fecundity of fish is so enormous as to prevent their extinction," etc.
etc. But the certainty of a fish yielding twenty thousand eggs is no
surety for these being hatched, or if hatched, of their escaping the
dangers of infancy, and reaching the market as table food. I watch the
great shoals at Wick with much interest, and could wish to have been
longer acquainted with them. How long time have the Wick shoals taken to
grow to their present size? what size were the shoals when the fish had
leave to grow without molestation? - how large were the shoals when first
discovered - and how long have they been fished? are questions which I
should like to have answered. As it is, I fear the great Wick fishery must
come some day to an end. When the Wick fishery first began the fisherman
could carry in a creel on his back the nets he required ; now he requires
a cart and a good strong horse!
Although Scotland is the main seat of the herring
-fishery, I should like to see statistics, similar to those collected in
Scotland, taken at a few English ports for a period of years, in order
that we might obtain additional data from which to arrive at a right
conclusion as to the increase or decrease of the fishery for herring. It
is possible to collect statistics of the cereal and root crops of the
country ; it was done for all Scotland during three seasons, and it was
well and quickly accomplished. What can be done for the land may also, I
think, be done for the sea. I believe the present Board for Scotland to be
most useful in aiding the regulation of the fishery, and in collecting
statistics of the catch; their functions, however, might be considerably
extended, and elevated to a higher order of usefulness, especially as
regards the various questions in connection with the natural history of
the fish. The operations of the Board might likewise be extended for a few
seasons to a dozen of the largest English fishing-ports, in order that we
might obtain confirmation of what is so often rumoured, the falling off of
our supplies of sea-food. There are various obvious abuses also in
connection with the economy of our fisheries that ought to be remedied,
and which an active Board could remedy and keep right ; and a body of
naturalists and economists might easily be kept up at a slight toll of say
a guinea per boat.
The state of the case as between the supply of fish and
the extent of netting has been focussed into the annexed diagram, which
shows at a glance how the question stands.
|