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It has been frequently said
that the parish of Penicuik, in the shire of _Midlothian, bore at one time
the name of St. Mungo. Such is the statement in the New. Statistical Account
of the parish, which was written in 1839 by the Rev. W. Scott Moncrieff';
while the writer of the old Statistical Account in 1793, the Rev. Thomas
M'Courty, quotes Sir James Clerk as having been of that opinion. The
assertion has been frequently repeated ; but it has no documentary evidence
in its favour. It is probable that the first primitive church-building
erected in the district may have been dedicated to that saint; and it is of
course possible that the name may have been applied to a portion of the land
surrounding it: but at best this is only a supposition. It is moreover
positively known that in the eleventh century the barony, then co-equal with
the parish, was called Penicok. This word, according to the best
authorities, was originally spelt Pen-y-coc, signifying the Hill of the
Cuckoo, and the name was probably suggested to our ancient British ancestors
by the number of these birds frequenting the native woodlands in
spring-time.
At first the name might only
be applied to some hillock or upland, but when afterwards the country was
divided into parishes it would no doubt be readily accepted, by those whose
duty it was to supply their nomenclature, as being suitable for the whole of
the newly defined area. It has been stated that the parish of Glencorse was
at a subsequent period formed from certain sections of land taken from
Penicuik and Pentland, but this record is not authentic. So far as can he
ascertained, the boundaries of Penicuik as originally fixed continued
undisturbed until about the middle of the seventeenth century. At that
period the small parishes of Mount Lothian and St. Catherine's were
suppressed, and annexed to Penicuik. In consequence of these changes in the
original plan of the parish, its boundaries now present a very curious and
irregular outline, including within them a total area of 18,9669 acres of
hill and dale, moorland, and cultivated land.
Any one desirous of studying
the physical features of the parish of Penicuik could not do better than
place himself on a summit of one or other of the symmetrical and beautiful
Pentland hills which traverse it from north-east to south-west. From this
vantage-point lie would see the whole area of the parish spread out as a
leap before him. If, to be-in with, he sought to study its Hydrographr, he
could trace the river Esk flowing through it in a south-easterly direction,
and with its tributary streams and wooded banks giving diversity and beauty
to the landscape. Not far from its source, and unflooded by more than one
little rivulet, it would be seen entering the grounds of Newhall, made
famous as the scene of Ramsay's beautiful Scottish pastoral. Flowing
onwards, its stream increased by the Carlops Burn, and the Monks or
Ninemileburn, it passes beneath Marfield Loch, the only natural sheet of
water in the parish, and with the physical peculiarity of having no apparent
means of inlet or outlet. After disappearing into the beautifully wooded
policies of Penicuik, and before it finally leaves the parish, the further
channel of the river is deepened and widened by its other tributaries, the
Harkenburn, Silverburn, Hareburn, and Blackblu•n. There would also be
visible to the spectator on the hill, the dome-like enclosures at Saltersike
and Silverhurn, covering the copious springs from which the village of
Penicuik receives its plentiful supply of excellent water. Within the
grounds of Sir George Clerk there might be hidden from his sight by their
fringe of woodland the three beautiful artificial lakes known as IIurly Cove
and the Low and High Ponds. The first and last mentioned were made by Baron
Sir John Clerk, and were favourite resorts of that learned antiquarian. The
High Pond is a lovely sheet of water, extending to over six acres, and much
enhances the attractiveness of the policies surrounding the mansion-house.
The springs of water
throughout the parish are also numerous, and it cannot be doubted that their
presence has been an important factor in the development of the paper-making
industry, thus having a bearing upon the prosperity of the whole district.
Passing on to notice other
physical features of the parish, the eye of the observer would be gratified
by the wealth of woodland which enriches the landscape. On the Penicuik
estate alone there are 1273 acres of trees, fairly well distributed in belts
of planting over its entire area. '1'llis useful rural improvement upon the
property of the Clerk family was begun some two hundred years ago by the
first Baronet of that name. It was developed to a considerable extent by his
son and grandson, especially in the vicinity of the mansion-house, but it
remained to their descendant, the late Right Honourable Sir George Clerk, to
extend to its present limits the enlightened system of laying down strips
and clumps of trees for the benefit of shelter, and for the purpose of
beautifying his estate generally. On the Newhall property, situated in the
south-west of the parish, the woodlands, Which were at one time fairly
abundant, are now unfortunately becoming thin, and as much in need of
replanting as the soil around them is in want of draining.
It will undoubtedly be it
matter of regret to the intelligent observer that a lame portion of the land
of the parish still remains ill a state of nature. The existence of such wet
masses as Harlaw Muir, Auchencorth Moss, Springfield, Wellington, Halls, and
Rosemay Muirs, with the additional 1268 acres of unreclaimed ground at
Mountlothian, must, it is to he feared, affect adversely the climate of the
district. In consequence of so much wild land lying to the south and
south-east, it is not surprising that although much of it is hidden from
view by strips of plantation, the bleakest portion of the parish is that
approached by the Lamancha road at Leadburn, called in olden times
Leckbernard. My readers may be familiar with the description given of it in
The Strange Adventrrres of a Phaeton, by William Black the novelist. He
there speaks of the little inn and its surroundings as a cut-throat-looking
place, calculated to impress the traveller with awe and terror. This
exaggerated account, from the diary of a weary and hungry traveller, written
under ulnfavourable atmospheric conditions, is no true picture of the place;
but it is satisfactory to he able to record that since that time much has
been clone by the proprietors of the small estates of Stellknowe and Leadurn
Park to beautify and improve the amenities of this upland portion of our
parish.
In writing of the physical
features of a parish it is customary to give some account of its Flora and
Fauna, as well as of its Geology and Mineralogy. Iii consideration, however,
of the number of books already published by specialists dealing in an
exhaustive and scientific manner with these subjects, as they are found, not
in Penicuik parish only, but, in Midlothian generally, it is needless to
give a further description of them in this volume. In another chapter
allusion is made to the working of coal, but it may be mentioned here that
limestone was also quarried and burnt for a considerable period at the kilns
of Fullerton and Mountlothian. The competition, however, which ultimately
arose from quarries more favourably situated in regard to their proximity to
railway stations finally made local traffic unremunerative, and the kilns
are rapidly becoming unfit for further service. Extensive beds of sand and
;ravel exist quite close to the village, and are worked by local
contractors. There are also several valuable quarries of freestone
throughout the parish, notably that at Mar-field, from which were taken the
stones to build a portion of Penicuik House and much of the present village,
and which still affords abundant material to supply the needs of the
district.
Apart from the natural
beauties of wood and water and hedgerows, which would delight the eve of the
spectator as he gazed down from the Pentland steeps upon our parish, several
other objects of interest might arrest leis attention. Embowered amidst its
woods might be seen the turrets of the mansion of Newhall—a building rich in
its associations with amen eminent in letters and in art who used to reside
within its walls, the guests of a former proprietor. Farther down the river,
the crumbling ruins of Brunstane Castle would remind him of the feudal
times, when a Crichton finessed and plotted within then, regardless of his
country's weal, so long as his own ambition was satisfied.
On the other side of the Esk,
and directly eastwards, the handsome obelisk at Ravensneuk, dedicated to
Allan Ramsay, would recall time fact that the Clerks of Penicuik as well as
time Forbeses of Newhall were time patrons and friends of that faithful
delineator of the manners and customs of the rustics of a past generation.
The beautiful spire at the offices of Penicuik house plight reasonably
suggest to the onlooker the proximity of a place for Divine worship rather
than it stable. At first designed by Sir James Clerk for the parish church
at Penicuik, but its erection there being forbidden by his fellow-heritors,
the Baronet determined to see the creation of his brain in stone and lime,
and hence the presence of this unusual and imposing structure at the
entrance to the stable-yard. Opposite it is the large dome representative of
Arthur's O'On, folly described in another chapter while behind is the
stately tower erected by Baron Clerk as a landmark, as well as to serve the
useful of it dovecot for his family. Most imposing of all, however, is the
mansion-house of Penicuik—one of the finest houses, if not indeed the very
finest, in all the shire. Tile central portion of it was designed and built
in 1761 by Sir James Clerk, the third Baronet, after his return from it long
residence in Italy, with a mind enriched by classical tastes and ideas. The
two wings were erected under the supervision of Mr. David Bryce, an
Edinburgh architect, in 1857, but they do not improve the general appearance
of the building.
The fine taste of Sir James
was further shown in the internal treatment of his princely mansion. The
rich mural decorations by Alexander Runciman, in the drawing-room known as
Ossian's Hall, are familiar to all students of decorative art, while the
adornment bv the same artist of one of the cupolas surmounting
the staircase with scenes from the life of Queen Margaret is remarkable for
its richness of tone and dramatic power of illustration.
The house itself contains a
rich store of antiquarian and artistic treasures, all of which have been
very ably described in a recent publication by Mr. John M. Gray, F.S.A., the
cultured Curator of the Scottish National Portrait Gallery.
Newbigging House, the
residence of former proprietor, occupied a site close behind the present
mansion. A sketch of this pieturesque and interesting old building, by John
Clerk of Eldin, has happily been preserved, and is reproduced in the volume
of his etchings printed by the Bannatyne Club.
In its time it also was the
finest family residence in Midlothian. It was in all probability erected by
Lord President Preston, shortly after he acquired the Penicuik estate in
1609.
If, before allowing his eve
finally to rest upon the village of Penicuik, nestling under the very shadow
of the hills upon which he stands, our intelligent observer looked again
towards the southern limits of the parish, his attention might be arrested
by a large group of red brick buildings, known as the Wellington Reformatory
Farin School. This excellent institution was founded in the year 1859 for
the reformation of juvenile offenders. Owing much to the enlightened efforts
of the late Sheriff Cleghorn, the late Bailie Thomas Russell, and Mr. John
Cowan of Beeslack, aided by the energy and Christian influence of its late
excellent Superintendent, Mr. John Craster, it has from small beginnings
grown to be a large and beneficial agency, not only for the eradication of
habits of vice, but for training its inmates in handicrafts which fit them
for a useful and successful career in after-life. In the thirty years of its
existence nearly 900 lads have passed through the Wellington Reformatory.
While not a few of them, by industry and good conduct, occupy important
appointments at home, many others, owing to the wise provision made by the
Directors for emigration, have attained to positions of comfort and
influence in other lands. The training received by the lads in agricultural
work, boot-making, and other handicrafts, fit them in an especial manner for
after success in life. Although 830 feet above sea-level, the system of
farming adopted and carried on by them, under experienced supervision, has
resulted in a marvellous improvement of time lands belonging to the
institution. Where, thirty years ago, a few sheep and cattle struggled for a
scanty subsistence on time wet and peaty soil, heavy crops of cereals,
turnips, and potatoes are now produced. The large boot-factory, with
machinery driven by steam-power, turns out annually boots and shoes to the
value of' nearly L 3000. Primary as well as technical instruction is not
forgotten, and Government reports continue most favourable year by year as
to the passes of the lads in the ordinary educational subjects.
Mr. Craster, the first
Governor of time Wellington, died on the 2d of July 1890, regretted by all
who knew him, and by none more than those lads whose master and helper lie
had been. The Directors unanimously appointed his son, Mr. John Craster, to
succeed him as Governor. |
