their
mulberry trees refused to mature on Moutree’s Hill owing to our less
genial climate.
Leith and Edinburgh then
became the chief centres of the linen manufacture in Scotland. There was a
large factory in the Citadel and another in Leith Wynd beyond the Low
Calton, and both had their bleaching greens in the meadows by the
waterside at Bonnington. Owing to her proximity to the great Border sheep
pastures Leith had always had a large trade in the export of wool, and,
placed as she was on the east coast, no Port could have been more
favourably situated for importing the finer foreign wools and all dyes and
other materials necessary for their manufacture into cloth. Both the Leith
and Edinburgh districts, therefore, became leading centres for woollen
manufactories, for James Watt had not yet invented the steam-engine which
led to the great coal and iron fields of the west becoming Scotland’s
chief industrial centres.
But the home-grown wool was
unfit for any save the coarser kinds of cloth, such as blankets and the
hodden grey from which the dress of most Scots was made in olden days.
England, France, and the Netherlands jealously forbade the use of their
fine wools for any but their own manufactures. Supplies had, therefore, to
be imported from Spain and Portugal in return for cargoes of oats, barley,
fish, skins, and coarse cloth. But, despite her favourable situation for
continental trade, a constant and sufficient supply of this finer wool
from the Peninsula was difficult to maintain.
Voyaging in Spanish waters
was peculiarly subject to "sea hazards and pyrats," the pirates
there being the sea-rovers of Algiers and Sallee, at whose very name wives
and mothers of Leith sailormen turned pale. The slow-sailing Leith barques
became an easy prey to those. "savadge and merciles infidels ye
Turkes in Argeirs," as the wife of a Leith mariner of those days
described the sea-wolves of the Mediterranean, by whom Leith seamen were
so often enslaved. Agents in southern Spain did a regular business in
ransoming such unfortunates, and collections in Leith were accustomed to
be taken in an endeavour, not always successful, to effect their release,
as in 1646, to quote one example, for the crew of David Balfour’s ship
"who are lying captive among ye Turks in
Argeir "—the old name for Algiers, as one may see on reading
Shakespeare’s Tempest.
Factories for the
manufacture of woollen cloth of the finest quality were established in
Leith, Leith Wynd, and at Bonnington, which seems to have been quite a
hive of industry in the seventeenth century. The factory at Bonnington was
originally under the superintendence of seven Flemings, who not only
introduced the most up-to-date methods in the production of the finest
woollen cloths, but also engaged to teach them to native workmen. In all
there were more than fifty business establishments that received the
privileges of a manufactory from the State between the Restoration and the
Union of 1707, and of these a very considerable number were located in the
Leith district, owing to the facilities for trade afforded by the Port.
Leith ships of any size,
owing chiefly to the difficulty of obtaining the necessary supply of
timber, were still built in Holland, and their equipment of sails, ropes,
and cordage had to be imported from the same country, as in the days of
James IV. nearly two hundred years before. A beginning was now made in
remedying this state of matters by the establishment of a sailcloth
factory in Yardheads and of a rope-walk in Newhaven, two industries for
which Leith has to-day a world-wide fame. It was now, too, that the
sawmill, to which Mill Lane led for so many long years before Junction
Street was formed, was founded, with the exclusive right of sawing all
timber by machinery, driven, of course, by water power, within a radius of
fifteen miles of it. Farther up the Water of Leith was a factory for
beaver hats which continued for more than a hundred years, and another for
making gunpowder, both of which are commemorated to-day in the names of
the districts — Beaverhall and Powderhall — in which they were
erected.
The funds for the support
of King James’s Hospital in the Kirkgate had been neither honestly nor
wisely administered. Part of the building, in order to help the funds, was
let as a "stiffing house"—that is, as a starch factory—while
another portion was utilized for the manufacture of "prins" and
needles. There was a "sugarie" or sugar-house in the Old
Sugar-house or Candle Close in Tolbooth Wynd, and two soap-works were now
at work in the town. Evidently the good folk of Leith and Edinburgh were
making a beginning at washing every day. The old one in Riddle’s Close,
under the new management of the Balfour family, now of Pilrig, was in a
very flourishing condition, while a new one in the grounds of Coatfield’s
Lodging did much to contribute to setting up the trade with Archangel.
Its proprietor, Robert
Douglas, was a man of much commercial activity and enterprise, and a great
promoter of industries in Leith, where he had also established a pottery.
The last member of this family to be associated with the Port was Miss
Anne Douglas, who died in Trinity in 1910. Then we must not forget the
glass-works, of which there were two at this time, the larger in the
Citadel and the smaller in Yardheads. In the next century they were to
number seven. These were the more important of the industries founded in
Leith during this period of progress. They show that Leithers at this time
were full of that energy and enterprise which has always characterized the
business men of the town, who were then, as now, doing their part in
advancing the material well-being of the country.
But England’s commercial
policy was no less hurtful to Leith’s trade than her policy of
protecting her home industries against competition from foreign countries,
among which Scotland was included. Under Cromwell’s rule Scottish
merchants enjoyed equal trading rights with those of England, both with
foreign countries and the Plantations, as the Colonies were then called.
At the Restoration all this was changed, for England, by her Navigation
Act of 1661, declared that no goods were to be imported into, or exported
from, the Colonies except in ships belonging to England or the
Plantations.
Such a law was quite in
accord with the colonial policy of that time, for Scotland had contributed
nothing, either in blood or treasure, to the acquisition of the
Plantations. But Scotland was anxious to find some market for her linens
and woollens and her newly established manufactures. As she was now shut
out from English markets, and to a large extent from those of the
Continent, both by trade policy and William’s French wars, she could
only find a market for her goods in the Colonies, where there were no
established manufactures. Scotland, however, had no colonies of her own,
and she was now shut out from trading with those of England by the
Navigation Act.
But Leith’s "sugarie"
in the Old Sugar-house Close could not carry on without supplies of raw
sugar, nor could the hat factory at Beaverhall continue to gratify the
demand for beaver hats without a supply of beaver skins for their
manufacture. Fortunate was it for Leith, therefore, that the trade
regulations of those days were more strict in theory than in practice. For
this reason, in spite of the Navigation Act, she was enabled to carry on a
considerable trade with the Plantations in woollens, linens, stockings and
other "Scotch goods," as they were then called. This trade was
greatly encouraged by the colonists, because the Scottish goods, though
coarser in quality, were cheaper in price than those sent from England.
Another of Leith’s
exports during this period was "notorious vagabonds," with whom
she was kept well supplied from Edinburgh. Strange as it may seem these
"vagabonds" were much prized by the colonists, for despite their
designation they made excellent and trustworthy servants. Some of them
had, no doubt, been notorious enough, but many were no worse than poor
Covenanters and "absenters from the kirk," who, like the two
hundred or more prisoners from Greyfriars’ Churchyard wrecked in the
ill-fated Crown, had refused to conform to Episcopacy.
This
trade in shipping off prisoners as slaves to the Plantations was a paying
business, and English vessels voyaging to America and the West Indies
would often come to anchor in Leith Roads and ship as many prisoners as
could be had, for the Privy Council was always ready to empty the prisons
and "be rid of such vermin." These vessels would then go
North-about and continue their voyage to the west. Indeed, so profitable
did merchants and skippers find the trade, that people were often
kidnapped, a practice made familiar to us by Stevenson’s exciting story
of the adventures of David Balfour, and by the true story of the life of
Peter Williamson, the man who issued the first Edinburgh Directory in
1773. As late as 1810 a butcher of North Leith named Leadbitter was
imprisoned for kidnapping boys to serve aboard ships voyaging to distant
lands.
And so when ships like the Hopewell
of Leith sailed with a cargo of "Scotch goods" to the
Plantations, to return with tobacco and supplies for the sugarie and the
factory at Beaverhall, James Graham and Thomas Hamilton, merchants in
Edinburgh, her owners, would "crave the delivery of such idle
vagabonds and other persons as may be ready to go to the
Plantations." These unfortunates were generally kindly treated by the
planters and were usually set free after a number of years, when they
settled down on small plantations of their own. Along with those Scots who
now emigrated to the Colonies instead of serving in foreign armies or
wandering as pedlars and traders in Poland, they naturally kept in touch
with their own countrymen, and encouraged them to come and trade with
them. And in this way Leith vessels continued to sail to the Plantations
in spite of every English regulation to keep them out.
The larger ships required
to meet the needs of those more distant voyages brought about the first of
the many harbour extensions that have been made to accommodate Leith’s
ever-growing trade. The Shore had been gradually stretching seawards
beyond the King’s Wark, and in 1677 Robert Mylne, the King’s Master
Mason, obtained a grant of the waste land at the mouth of the harbour on
which he erected "for his own use and benefit the great stone
tenement upon the Shore of Leith," to quote a family charter. This
tenement, now numbered 10 Shore, is still owned by the Mylne family. It
possesses a beautifully moulded doorway and stair window, in the pediment
of which, within a chaplet of roses, are the initials of its famous
builder, R. M., and the date 1678. Here resided Robert Mylne’s son
William, who was the first of the family to drop the old title of Master
Mason for the new one of Architect. He was one of the
supporters of the king’s policy of establishing Episcopacy in South
Leith Church during the "killing time," as one would expect the
son of the King’s Master Mason to be.
In
1685 Robert Mylne received another grant of land along the seashore, where
he undertook to erect a seawall to resist the encroachment of the waves,
and to construct a windmill, leaving between it and the north gable of his
tenement a suitable entrance to the adjoining Timber Bush. The great stone
tenement, the windmill, and the entrance to the Timber Bush may still be
seen on the Shore. The windmill is now the Old Signal Tower used to-day by
Messrs. Cran as a part of their works. A portion of the seawall, which
Robert Mylne built in 1685 to protect the stores of wood within the Timber
Bush from being washed away by the sea, still forms the lower part of the
walls of the shacks lining Tower Street, and in them one can easily
discern the built-up openings, like embrasures for cannon, through which
the timber cargoes floated from the ships were hauled for storage within
the Timber Bush.
This windmill built by
Robert Mylne at the entrance to the harbour, together with the one at St.
Anthony’s, and a third built on the
town ramparts near Links Lane behind South Leith Church, must have given a
quaint Dutch-like aspect to Leith in those brave days of old in
approaching it from the sea. It was from this harbour as reconstructed by
Robert Mylne that the Darien Company’s expedition sailed away in such
high hope in 1698, and it is substantially this harbour we see depicted in
the old Dutch picture now in the Trinity House.
Scotland, in adopting a
policy of protecting her new industries against competing products from
England and continental countries, went far to shut her own commodities
out of European markets. Leith’s illicit trade with the Plantations did
not compensate her for the loss of her trade with England, France, and the
Netherlands. During King William’s wars with France her commercial
intercourse with the Baltic had increased as that route was safer from the
attacks of French war ships and privateers than those to Holland and Spain
and Portugal.
But Scotland, and more
especially the Leith and Edinburgh part of it, had become a manufacturing
centre, and markets for the disposal of her manufactured goods were
urgently needed. Having spent what capital she could gather together in
establishing manufactures, she now gave what money she had left to found
the Darien Company to settle a colony in Darien, which was to be a great
colonial market for the disposal of Scottish manufactures. The maximum
amount of stock one could hold in the Darien Company was £3,000, the sum
subscribed by the Corporation of Edinburgh, but none of the sixteen Leith
shareholders on the list approached this amount. The highest was the share
of James Balfour, the ancestor of the Pilrig family and a partner in the
soap-works in Riddle’s Close and the powder-mills at Powderhall, who
subscribed £2,000, while Robert Douglas, his rival in the soap trade,
with more Scots caution, put his name down for the modest sum of £100.
The Trinity House "adventured" £200, as also did Mr. William
Wishart, the minister of South Leith.
And
so on a fine day in July 1698 the whole population of Edinburgh and Leith,
we are told, poured down upon the pier and sands of Leith to see the five
ships, which had been specially built at Amsterdam and Hamburg for the
expedition, weigh anchor in Leith Roads, and to cheer loud and long as the
vessels hoisted sail and made their way down the Firth. With the second
expedition, which sailed in the following year, went as chaplain the Rev.
Archibald Stobo, from whose daughter, Jean, was descended Martha Bulloch,
the mother of the late President Roosevelt.
The expeditions, instead of
founding a colonial market as an outlet for Scottish manufactured goods,
ended in disaster, and brought much sorrow to Leith, for of the nine ships
that sailed away only one returned.
The feeling of hatred
against King William and the English, and especially against the East
India Company, who largely contributed to the failure, and deliberately
left the colonists to whatever fate might befall them, was deep and
bitter. It soon showed itself in unfriendly and hostile acts that still
further inflamed the feeling of enmity between the two countries. After
the failure of their great colonial scheme the Darien Company still
carried on a shipping trade with the East. This was strongly resented by
the East India Company, who looked upon the countries round the Indian
Ocean as their peculiar sphere for trading. They seized and sold the Annandale,
one of the Darien Company’s ships, while another, the Speedy
Return, had sailed to the East three years before, and, in spite of
her name, had not since been heard of.
Just at this time an East
Indiaman, the Worcester, driven by stress of weather, sought
shelter in the Forth. The Worcester did not belong to the East
India Company, as was supposed at the time, but to a rival company founded
in the same year as the Darien Company. Rumours began to get abroad that
Captain Green and the crew of the Worcester had captured a Scottish
ship off the Malabar coast, and had murdered the crew. It was at once
concluded that this ship was the Speedy Return, and that an
overruling Providence had directed Captain Green and his men to the Forth
for punishment. The upshot was that Captain Green and two of his crew were
tried, and, without a shadow of proof, condemned to be hung as pirates on
Leith sands, where the angry population of the two towns crowded to see
that they did not escape. If the crew of the Worcester had seized
any Scottish ship it was not the Speedy Return, for that much
misnamed vessel, it would seem, eventually found her way back to Leith.
The feeling of enmity deeds
such as these stirred up between the two countries was now so strong that
any further acts of hostility could only end in war. It was seen that the
two countries must either once more become separate kingdoms or be brought
into closer union, and have the same rights and privileges. They were
wisely guided, and the result was the Act of Union of 1707. The good folk
of Edinburgh and Leith were opposed to the Union, and on 1st May, the day
on which the Act came into force, the musical bells of St. Giles’, which
no longer hang in the steeple, gave sympathetic expression to the feelings
of the people by pealing forth the melancholy old Scots tune, "O why
should I be sad upon my wedding day?"