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Cardross
THERE is considerable beauty
of scenery, and much that is of great historical interest in the parish of
Cardross, which is partly bounded by the waters of the Frith of Clyde, and
by the river Leven issuing from Loch Lomond. No doubt the name is derived
from "Ross," a point or headland, and "Car," a moorland ridge, and the
church formerly stood on the high ground above the Leven, near its
confluence with the Clyde. It is bounded on the south by the Clyde, on the
west by the Parish of Row, and on the north it marches with Luss and Bonhill
parishes. Its extreme length may be about eight miles, and its breadth
varies from one and a half to three miles. In former times the parish
appears not to have extended much farther along the shores of the Frith of
Clyde than the site of the present church. Some lands in Glenfruin, and on
the Gareloch, and even as far as Loch Long, then belonged to it, although
these were detached from it in 1643, when the parish received an addition on
its western boundary.
Cardross was part of the
lordship of the old Earls of Lennox, but portions of it were held by their
vassals before the wars of the suecession. In the middle of the thirteenth
century Earl Maldoven of Lennox granted to Donald Macynel a land in
Glenfreone called Kealbride, which is held on a fourth part of a "harathor,"
bounded by the Lavaran and the burn called Crose, as they run from the hill
and fall into the Freone; the reddendo, the twentieth part of the service of
a man-at-arms. The grant is witnessed by the Earl's brother, Amelec, of
whose large appanage Glenfruin formed a part. Before 1294, John Napier held
Kilmahew of the Earl, giving three suits at his head court, and paying what
is exigible for a quarter of land in Lennox.
Malcolm, Earl of Lennox,
resigned into the hands of the King, Robert I., a plough of land of Cardross,
getting in compensation the half of the lands of Lekkie in Stirlingshire.
The King, about 1322, gave over the lands of Hoyden, within the Barony of
Cardross, to Adam son of Alan, and he had a specific object in view in
acquiring land in the parish. For upon a bank overhanging the river Leven,
near its junction with the Clyde, the hero of Bannockburn built a castle,
and surrounded it with a park, which was called the King's Park of Cardross.
At the first milestone out of Dunbarton, along the Cardross road, there is a
wooded knoll which bears the name of Castlehill, although there are no
traces of any ruined buildings to be seen. Having divested himself of the
cares and vexations of government, the monarch found relief in the chase,
and indulged in hunting excursions, and made short voyages along the
neighbouring waters of the Gareloch and Loch Long, and the broad estuary of
the Clyde, while he was kept in security by the neighbouring castle of
Dunbar-ton. Within the walls of his residence, in view of the fine mountain
ranges which throw their dark shadows over the placid waters of Loch Lomond,
the patriot king breathed his last on 7th June, 1329.
An interesting account of the
closing days of the heroic King is given by Fraser Tytler, the historian, in
his life of Robert Bruce. "By the advice of his physicians he retired to
Cardross, a beautiful retreat situated upon the Clyde, about six miles from
Dunbarton, where, amid the intervals from pain and sickness, his time
appears to have been much occupied in making experiments in the construction
and sailing of vessels, with a view, probably, towards the establishment of
a more effective naval force in Scotland. We learn this fact from the
accounts of his High Chamberlain, which are yet preserved, and the same
records acquaint us that in these kingly amusements he often enjoyed the
society of Randolph. [The King's expenses at Cardross. The following are a
few of the entries from the "Cardross Household Book," as given by Irving in
Dumbartonshire—"Item. To wood for the scaffolding of the new chalmer, 3s.;
making a door for do., 6d. To 100 large boards, 3s. 4d. To Giles the
huntsman for his allowance for one year, six weeks, three days, 1 chalder 35
bolls meal. Grant to do by the King's command, 26s. 8d. To a net for taking
large and small fish, 40s. To two masts for the ship, 8s. To persons
employed in raising the masts three times, 3s. To working 80 tons of iron
for the use of the ships and the castle at 4d. per stone, 26s. 8d. To
bringing the King's great ship from the Frith into the river near the
castle, and carrying the rigging to the castle, 3s. To twelve men sent from
Dunbarton to the Target to bring back the King's great ship, 28s. To thirty
loads of firing to be used in the work of the windows, 22s. 6d. To conveying
Peter the fool to Target (on Loch Fyne), 1s. 6d. The house for the falcons
cost 2s.; a fishing net, 40s.; seeds for the orchard, Is. 6d.; green olive
oil for painting the royal chamber, 10s.; chalk for the same, 6d.; a chalder
of lime for whitewashing it, 8s.; and tin nails and glass for the windows,
3s. 4d."] His lighter pleasures consisted in hunting and hawking, when his
health permitted; in sailing upon the Clyde, and superintending his mariners
and shipwrights in their occupations; in enlarging and enclosing his park,
and making additions to his palace. As even the most trivial circumstances
are interesting when they regard so eminent a man, it may be mentioned that
he kept a lion, the expense of whose maintenance forms an item in the
chamberlain's accounts; and that his active mind, even under the pressure of
increasing disease, seems to have taken an interest in the labours of the
architects, painters, goldsmiths, and inferior artists, who belonged to his
establishment. In compliance with the manners of the times, he maintained a
fool, for whose comfort he was solicitous, and in whose society he took
delight. He entertained his clergy and his barons, who visited him from time
to time, at his rural palace, in a style of noble and abundant hospitality.
The minutest parts of his expenditure appear to have been arranged with the
greatest order, and his lowest officers and servants, his huntsmen,
falconers, dog-keepers, gardeners, and park-stewards, provided for in rude
but regular abundance. His gifts and largesses to the officers of his
household, to his nurse and other old servants, and to the most favourite
amongst his nobles, were frequent and ample; his charity in the support of
many indigent persons, by small annual salaries or regular allowances of
meat and flour, was extensive, and well directed; whilst a pleasing view of
his generosity, combined with his love of letters, is presented by his
presents to `poor clerks' for the purpose of enabling them to carry on their
education "at the schools."
The scene has been often
described when the King, feeling his last hour drawing near, charged his old
friend and companion in arms, Sir James Douglas, to take, as soon as he was
dead, his embalmed heart and deposit it in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
at Jerusalem. This was done, and Sir James Douglas duly set out with a body
of chosen companions for the Holy Land, with his precious charge enclosed in
a silver casket, but being attacked by the Saracens, and surrounded by
overwhelming numbers, he flung the casket before him, exclaiming, "Pass
onward as thou was wont, and Douglas will follow thee or die."
In addition to the Parish
Church near Dunbarton, there was a chapel at Kilmahew, dedicated to St.
Mahew, probably Macceus, one of the companions of St. Patrick, which gave
its name to the lands. Both the Chapel and lands of Kilmahew belonged to the
Cochrans in the time of David II., but in the fifteenth century they had
reverted to the Napiers. Between the years 1208 and 1233, Maldoven, Earl of
Lennox, granted to Walter, Bishop of Glasgow, as mensal to the bishoprick,
the Church of Cardross, along with its lands and fishings, reserving the
right of his brother, Dungal, who was also in orders, and may likely have
held this benefice as well as that of Kilpatrick. Before 1432 this parish
had been erected into a prebend for a canon of the cathedral. The rectory of
Cardross is taxed in Baiamond's Tax Roll at £61 13s. 4d., and in the
Libellus Taxationum at £66 13s. 4d., and the Vicar pensionar gave up his
living at the Reformation as of £10 yearly value. In the year 1467 the
chapel of Kilmahew was rebuilt, and on the 10th May, George, Bishop of
Argyll, with license from the Bishop of Glasgow, clad in his mitre and
pontifical robes, consecrated the chapel and cemetery, dedicated to St.
Mahew. He also granted, in name and by consent of Duncan Napare of Kilmahew,
and James Napare his heir, to God and St. Mahew, and a chaplain to celebrate
in the newly consecrated chapel, forty shillings and tenpence yearly, out of
tenements in the Burgh of Dunbarton, with a croft adjoining the chapel.
From these particulars
chiefly gathered from Origines Parochiales, it will be seen that the
ecclesiastical history of the parish extends to a very early period. As far
back as 1225 mention is made of the Kirk of Cardross, and for three
centuries the Bishops of Glasgow and their Deans and Chapters held it. The
old church was a small oblong building, forty feet in length and twenty in
breadth, with a tower at one end. All that now remains of that ancient
building is the eastern gable, in which is a small pointed doorway, and also
some remains of the lower parts of the side walls. Near it was the manse,
and the Clachan of Under Kirkton of Cardross. The church stood on the side
of the public road which ran along the shore and thence to Ardmore and Row,
and it did service as the parish kirk until the year 1644. When the old
church ceased to be used for worship, it gradually fell into decay until the
year 1805, when the Levengrove estate passed from the possession of Richard
Dennistoun of Kelvin-grove into the hands of the Dixons, and the churchyard
was despoiled of its monuments, ploughed over, and actually included in the
grounds of the new proprietor of the estate. Two venerable flat gravestones
are still to be seen near the walls of the church, the one outside
ornamented with a shield and cross bones, and the other, inside the church,
with a largo cross on its face, and, at one end, the words, "The xii. Aprel,"
at the other, "Heir Lyes 17." Inside the ruins rest the remains of a number
of the Dixon family, but the old mansion house of Levengrove, where Robert
Burns the poet on his second Highland tour in 1787, travelling on horseback
from Arrochar along Loch Lomondside, was welcomed by Mr. M'Aulay, the
lawyer, and his family, is now entirely obliterated from the scene. The
whole of these grounds, the ruins of the old kirk, the site of the mansion,
and the holy well of St. Serf, are all included in the fine park of
Levengrove, which was the handsome gift to their native town of the eminent
shipbuilders John MIMillan and Peter Denny, LL. D.
In the year 1644, the next
church of Cardross was built, on the site which it at present occupies near
the village, and is thus much nearer the centre of the parish. It was a
small unadorned structure, capable only of holding about 400 persons, and,
after being used down to the year 1826, was pulled down, and the present
existing edifice was erected. The situation is a commanding one, with a
beautiful view across the broad estuary of the Clyde down to the mountains
of Argyllshire, and a belt of old trees shelters the sacred structure. Its
architecture is Gothic, of a similar character to many churches built about
that period, the solid square tower over the entrance being its main
feature. The church is seated for 800, and within the last few years
received considerable renovations through the liberality of the late Mr.
Donaldson, of Keppoch ; there are also four stained glass memorial windows
representing Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John, given by the representatives of
heritors of Cardross. The glebe consists of 9½ acres of good arable ground,
and there is a large and commodious manse embowered in old trees.
There is nothing of special
interest about the Communion vessels of the parish church. The cups which
are in use at present are dated February 1867. Metal tokens of the usual
type in Scottish country churches dated 2nd December, 1858, were used until
recently. Much older ones used to exist stamped Car on one side, and on the
other Mr. E., 1767—no doubt in the ministry of Mr. Edmonstone,but of these
there are none now to be found. There are also two very old-fashioned ladles
for collections. From an old document it appears that on 21st September,
1727, Mrs. Wallace, the widow of the previous minister, handed over the
following articles which were used in the service of the church. Two silver
communion cups, two large flagons, one "bason," Acts of Assembly 1690-1723,
a table-cloth used at the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, with four towels,
a pulpit cloth and brass plate given by Ir. Wallace to the Session. Up till
the summer of 1895 the good old custom of the Fast day was kept up in
Cardross Parish, but following the easy-going tendencies of modern
ecclesiastical authorities, the preliminary day of worship has been
abrogated. As one of the respected old elders of the church sorrowfully
remarked to the author, he remembered when the Fast day services were even
more fully attended than those of the Sabbath.
The boundaries of the Parish
of Cardross have been considerably altered, as we learn from the pages of
Old Cardross. From it we are informed, "until 1643 the parish of Cardross
was bounded on the west by the Auchenfroe Burn, which divided it from
Rosneath, but on the other hand it included Bennachra, and the lands in
Glenfruin, and on the shore of the upper part of the Gareloch. In that year
Glenfruin was disjoined from Cardross to make part of the parish of Row,
which was then being formed; and in lieu of this the lands lying eastward
from Meikle Kirkmichael, and also Dalquharn, in the Vale of Leven, were
detached from Rosneath and added to Cardross. In 1659 the lands of Bennachra
were disjoined from Cardross and annexed to the parish of Luss."
The following is the
succession of ministers of Cardross as given in Irving's History of the
County.
1480. Robert BIackadder, son
of Sir Patrick Blackadder of Tulliallan and Elizabeth, daughter and
co-heiress of Sir James Edmonstone of that ilk, was rector of Cardross in
1480. He was employed by James III. on a mission to the Papal Court. While
at Rome, the bishopric of Aberdeen fell vacant, and having ingratiated
himself into the favour of Pope Sixtus IV., he was consecrated to that See.
In 1484 an opportunity occurred for preferment to which his abilities gave
him a claim, and he was translated to Glasgow. In his person that See was
advanced to Archiepiscopal rank; and he continued to perform itsfunctions
and to execute various important charges in the domain of politics until
1508, when he undertook a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, from which he did not
return, dying on the 28th July of that year.
1512. James Stewart, rector. Promoted in 1518 to the Provostry of Dunbarton
; at this time Peter Fleming was curate, and Thomas Ald, vicar pensionar.
1529. Patrick Shaw, succeeded as rector, and is mentioned as such in 1529.
1558. Symon Shaw was parson of Cardross, and rector of Kilbarchan in 1558.
John Bell filled this benefice soon after the Reformation, and about this
time William Cuik was reader, with 20 merks salary.
1569. John Flattisburry was exhorter, with 40 merks and the vicarage
pension, manse and glebe.
1572. Thomas Archibald, rector, and was succeeded some time after in 1592 by
1592. James Cunningham died 1603.
1603. James Cunningham similar in name to last was presented, but died same
year.
1603. John Blackburn was appointed rector. He was Dean of the Faculty of
Glasgow College, and was translated to the Laigh Kirk of that city.
1616. Robert Watson was appointed, and continued to exercise the functions
of the ministry till 1650, when falling into ill-health, he resigned his
office and benefice into the hands of the Presbytery, reserving, however,
the manse and glebe during his life, and also all the teinds above seven
chalders, which he gave as a provision for his successor. The Right of
Patronage having been abolished by Statute the parishioners gave a call to
his son.
1651. Robert Watson, who was ordained in 1651. He conformed to the restored
order of things in 1663, and died in 1671. He was married to a daughter of
Principal Baillie.
1672. James Gartshore was next presented to the charge, and
eleven years afterwards, was translated to Tranent.
1683. Hugh Gordon. A brief entry in the Wodrow MS. in the
Advocates' Library, states that he was "ousted at the
Revolution."
1689. X eill Gillies, who in 1679 had been chaplain to Archibald, Earl of
Argyll, was minister at Cardross at the re-erection of Presbyterianism in
1689. He was translated to Glasgow in 1690.
1690. James Gordon, 'lane Ireland minister," had a popular call. Ile died in
1693.
1695. Archibald Wallace was admitted in 1695. Dying in 1725, the Crown
presented John Smith, but the parishioners refused to receive him, and gave
a call to John Edmonstone.
1726. John Edmonstone was appointed by the Crown, and ordained in 1726. lie
was minister of the parish for forty-four years. A Latin inscription on his
tombstone in the churchyard records his many high qualities. On his death,
John Davidson, minister of Old Kilpatrick, was nominated to the parish, but
declined.
1774. John 1sI'Aulay was inducted minister of the parish in 1774. He was
born at Harris, where his father was minister, in 1720. Graduated as M.A. at
King's College, Aberdeen. Ile was ordained minister of South Uist in 1745,
and in the course of the same year acquired some notoriety in his district
by furnishing information, through his father, which nearly led to the
capture of the Pretender, Prince Charles. In 1756 Mr. M'Aulay removed to
Lismore, and nine years afterwards made a second change to Inveraray, where
be was minister when Dr. Johnson made his famous journey to the Hebrides. He
married Margaret, daughter of Colin Campbell of Inversregan, and twelve
children were born of the marriage. One of them was the well-known Zachary
M'Aulay, the father of the celebrated historian, Lord Macaulay.
1790. Alexander M'Aulay was presented to Cardross by the Crown in 1790, but
a counter-presentation was given to Abraham Forrest by Sir James Colquhoun,
who claimed the right of patronage. The Civil Courts decided in favour of
.Mr. M'Aulay.
1801 Archibald `ViIson, for a good many years before his death, was unfit
for much parochial work.
1838. William Dunn, who was born in 1811 in the parish of Doune, Perthshire,
where his father held a small farm. Educated at Glasgow and Edinburgh
Universities, and after leaving college held a tutorship for some time. His
first appointment after being licensed was that of missionary to the
district of Stockbridge, in Edinburgh, and then was elected first minister
of St. Peter's Church, Glasgow, in July, 1836. After two years of assiduous
work in this field, be was offered, and accepted the appointment of
assistant and successor to the Rev. Mr. Wilson of Cardross. In 1839 he
succeeded to the full charge on Mr. Wilson's death, and for forty years gave
most earnest and faithful service in this parish, leaving behind him a name
greatly honoured and beloved. Although he sympathised with the views of the
"non-intrusion" party, yet in 1843 he felt constrained to cast in his lot
with those who remained in the church of their fathers, and the great bulk
of his congregation stood by their loved minister. Mr. Dunn was a model
pastor of a flock, and went in and out amongst his people with disinterested
and affectionate zeal. In 1845 he married Miss Croil, the step-daughter of
Mr. Donaldson of Keppoch, one of his own hcritors, who worthily assisted
her. husband in his parochial duties, and who still survives. In 1877 Mr.
Dunn appointed as his assistant the Rev. William Maxwell, M.A., recently
licensed, and four years afterwards the latter was ordained assistant and
successor. Mr. Dunn died on 8th December, 1885, aged 74 years, and his
funeral sermon was preached by one, whose father had been for over forty
years his intimate and beloved friend, the Rev. Professor Story, long
minister of Rosneath, and now Professor of Church History in Glasgow
University. He was a man of striking simplicity and gentleness of manner,
full of devotion to His Master's work, exuberant in large-hearted
benevolence, and intense in his sympathies for those in anguish or sorrow.
1885. William Maxwell, M.A., a native of Hamilton, and received his early
education at the academy of that town, and afterwards attended Glasgow
University. Mr. Maxwell always had the pleasantest relations with Mr. Dunn,
and very soon acquired the complete confidence and esteem of the
congregation of the Parish Church. In parochial and educational matters he
takes a warm interest, being an active member of the School Board, and his
scholarly tastes and general culture, with his faithful discharge of his
ministerial duties, have ever been appreciated by his attached congregation.
He adheres to the good old lines in worship and doctrine which have so long
prevailed in the parish, retaining the Fast day before the Sacrament till a
few months ago, and worthily maintains the honoured position held by the
ministers of Cardross. Mr. Maxwell has kindly allowed the author to give his
translations of the Latin inscriptions on several of the ancient tombs in
the churchyard, as well as furnished information regarding the parish.
The situation of Cardross
church is a remarkably fine one, placed as it is on an eminence looking away
down the noble Frith of Clyde and its mountain background, and shaded by a
few old beech and oak trees which flourish in full luxuriance of summer
foliage. Of massive construction, and with fine lines of Gothic
architecture, it is an ornament to the district, and has many features of
interest. The red sandstone of which it is built is hewn in solid blocks,
and at the east end on the gable there is a stone Latin cross of uncommon
form, a most unusual decoration in churches of the earlier part of the
century. It stands nearly upon the foundation of the previous building,
which was an unadorned structure of small dimensions. Few are left who
worshipped in the old church, but one native of the parish, Alexander Ewing,
who long was carrier between Dunbarton and Glasgow, still survives, in his
96th year, and distinctly remembers the old church and its minister, the
Rev. Archibald Wilson. It was a narrow, barn-like structure, with the pulpit
at the side wall, and opposite were the gallery seats of the Dennistouns,
Smolletts, and the Bontines of Ardoch, and the Kilmahew family. A small room
off the Dennistoun pew enabled the occupants to enjoy a little repose
between the services, there being an hour's interval. There was a small bell
tower from which the bell was suspended which summoned the inhabitants to
worship, and on sacramental occasions there would be sometimes a contingent
from the opposite shores of Port-Glasgow to hear some notable preacher in
the "tent " in the churchyard.
Inside the churchyard are
some interesting tombs, especially those of the old ministers at the corner
of the enclosure nearest the road. The oldest is in memory of the Rev.
Robert Watson, who died in 1671, and the translation of the Latin
inscription runs as follows:
"Sacred to the memory of
Master Robert Watson. Oh ! sad to tell, this humble tomb contains Watson,
for twice ten years parish minister of Cardross, a brilliant, ornament in
the mystic sciences, a helper of the wretched, and a distinguished athlete
for the Lord ; eloquent, fluent, in piety second to none; having fought a
good fight, now encircled with the crown. He died 7th September, 1671, aged
42 years."
Adjoining this is the tomb of
Rev. James Gordon who died in 1693, and his tombstone is well preserved,
though the lettering is beginning to be obliterated.
To the memory of Master James
Gordon, minister of Cardross. Gordon fell by the stroke of all-conquering
Death, and his distinguished frame lies by this tombstone. He proved by his
cleverness that the sublime parts comprehend more wonderful things than
belong to nature; high souled, in good things daring as the eagle, but as to
praises indifferent, nor did the highest wisdom lie hid from the learned
man. Too early did the joys of life above snatch him from us."
The Rev. John Edmonstone's
grave adjoins, quaintly adorned with death head, cross bones, and hour
glass, and the long Latin inscription is fairly legible. It concludes with
the following eulogy: "From the commencement of his duties to the end of his
days a firm upholder of honest virtue, and an unswerving ally and champion
of Christian peace, tender and compassionate to the ignorant and erring,
patient and forbearing to the wayward, he died 21 March, 1771, in his 80th
year."
There are a good many old
tombstones in the churchyard, but there is nothing of special interest to
record. On one of them, to the memory of Mrs. Bruce, there is an extremely
elegant Latin in. scription by a former professor of Humanity in Glasgow,
one sentence of which contains a beautiful thought, "sat sibi, sed suis,
eheu quam breviter vixit," which may be rendered, "enough for herself, but
for her friends, alas, how brief she lived." Several of the former lords of
the soil have large enclosed tombs, regular walled structures, pompously
adorned with coats of arms, the Dennistoun tomb in particular, which abuts
on to the church wall, is a large building constructed of massive stones.
There existed in pre-ILeformation
times, in the parishes of Cardross and Row, several chapels erected for the
requirements of the scattered population, such as Kilbride in Glenfruin, the
chapel of St. Michael at Faslane, that of Kirkmichael at Helensburgh, St.
Blanc at CamisEskan, and the chapel of Kilmahew. The latter is situated on
the lands known as Kirkton of Kilmahew, on the road from Cardross to Balloch.
It was erected about 1467, and a little way off, shaded by some fine trees,
is the schoolmaster's house and garden, where stood in former days the
priest's house. Formerly, on the same site, there was a chapel in the days
of David II., but in May, 1467, a new building, dedicated to St. Mochta or
llahew, confessor, was consecrated by George, Bishop of Argyll and the
Isles. The present ruin, with its moss grown gables and venerable aspect, is
doubtless the same chapel, and, though small, would be sufficient for the
sparse population of the period. It was of some architectural pretentions,
the mouldings and arches are of good design, and the sombre shade cast by a
spreading plane tree is in keeping with the old graveyard adjoining. This is
the last resting place of the earlier Napiers of Kilmahew, Buchanans of
Drumhead, whose descendants still own that property, and others. At the
Reformation, a Reader under the minister of Rosneath was substituted for the
Romish paraphernalia and relics of Popery, but owing to the church being
removed to its present site at Cardross, there was no need of the old
chapel, which thus fell into decay. The chapel for a time was used as a
schoolhouse, for in terms of an agreement between Robert Napier of Kilmahew
and the general body of the heritors, Kilmahew bound himself "to give the
use of the chapell, and to mortifie to the schulemaister annually five bolls
ane firlot of teind bear, and also a house and a piece of land extending to
about an acre, together with ane piece of land for pasture, which was of old
possest by the priest of Kilmahew in time of superstitione and popery;
third, to entertain the schulemaister in meat, drink, and bedding in
household with himself within the house of Kilmahew, so long as he shall
discharge the duty of family exercise and prayer within the said family."
From the Statistical Account
of the Parish of Cardross, published in 1796 under the auspices of Sir John
Sinclair, Bart., of Ulbster, we learn the following. It was written by the
Rev. Alexander Macaulay, minister of the parish, whose nephew was the
illustrious historian, Lord Macaulay. Agriculture is stated to be in a
somewhat backward condition, although the action of the proprietors in
enclosing their farm lands is commended. Oats and bear are the common crops,
but wheat, peas, and potatoes are much cultivated; fields are being laid
down in clover and rye-grass, but the culture of turnips is in its infancy.
Limestone is used for manure, and much sea-ware is distributed over the
fields, and street-manure imported from Greenock and Port-Glasgow at a cost
of 2s. per cart. Drainage is greatly required on account of the incessant
rains which prevail and drench the fields with water. Formerly every farmer
used to keep a few sheep, but now, except on three farms, this practice is
entirely given over. Not much attention is given to the breed of milk-cows.
The farm-houses are neat and well constructed, and every year increasing in
numbers. Nearly 200 acres are planted with Scotch firs and larches, and are
succeeding well. Coal is the principal fuel, 12 cwt. of which brought by
water costs 5s. sterling, unloaded in Cardross bay. Land is rising in value,
and the increase of manufactures on the river Leven occasions an influx of
people, and consequently greater demand for whatever the farms produce. The
printfields of Dalquhurn and Cordale are stated to be the most extensive of
any in Scotland, the Stirlings being then, as now, the great dyers and
bleachers in the Vale of Leven. This eminent firm, as far back as the year
1772, purchased the estate of Cordale, which was formed of a neck of land
owing to the river forsaking its former channel, and thus being a suitable
place for the erection of their bleaching works. In the summer of 1792 there
were no less than 876 persons employed at the Dalquhurn and Cordale works.
The goods manufactured are said to rival in the London market even the very
best produced at the first English printfields.
An account is given of the
foundation of the village of Renton by Mrs. Smollett of Bonhill in the year
1782. Her estate being contiguous to the rapidly increasing works set agoing
by Messrs. Stirling, the site was favourable for the erection of dwellings
for the numerous hands employed. The village was named by way of compliment
to the wife of Mr. Smollett's son, Alexander, who had married Miss Cecilia
Renton, one of the Edinburgh belles of the period. It consisted of three
principal streets, which ran in a direction from north to south, parallel to
one another. These were intersected by a number of other streets, all laid
off at regular distances, and the houses were rapidly taken up. Other houses
were being built in the vicinity of the Leven to accommodate the workers
upon the lands of Mr. Dennistoun and Mr. Graham of Gartmore. Two houses in
the village of Renton had been licensed by the Justices to sell spirits of
home produce, and the number of public-houses had diminished.
The yair fishings are stated
to be peculiar to this parish. The yair is a structure of rough stones
gathered from the beach stretching out a considerable distance and forming
three sides of a square, but riot visible till the tide is more than half
way out. As the tide retires a quantity of fish, herrings in abundance, and
often salmon are caught in the enclosure, and secured with a hand net. The
rights of the proprietors to these fishings are of high antiquity, being
granted by, crown charters more than 500 years ago, and they are carefully
guarded. Education is provided for the 40 or 50 scholars who attend at the
school, but the fees are paid direct to the master, who draws no salary from
the heritors. The proprietor of Kilmahew gives £5 sterling annually out of a
sum bequeathed for this purpose, and the teacher enjoys some other
privileges, of pasture for a cow, and £5 for his office of session-clerk.
The poor of the parish are well maintained by Mrs. Moore's mortification,
which at that time produced a revenue of £70 per annum, in addition to the
church door collections.
In this account of the parish
there is but a very brief notice of the antiquities of Cardross. All that is
said is in reference to the palace of King Robert the Bruce, as follows:—"A
little west of the Leven, upon a small eminence called Castle-hill stood, it
is said, a castle at times the residence of King Robert Bruce. In this
castle, of which no vestige is now discernible, that favourite prince, as
history and tradition informs us, breathed his last. A farm in the
neighbourhood still pays to the superior a feu-duty called dog meal. This
tax is supposed to have been originally imposed for the maintenance of his
Majesty's hounds."
It would appear that at one
time it was intended to erect salt-works at the peninsula of Ardmore, for a
memorandum was addressed to the Court of Directors of the Company of
Scotland trading to Africa and the Indies, dated 8th January, 1697, bearing
upon this project. The report is by Mr. James Smyth, who had repaired to the
river Clyde according to order to him and to Mr. Cragg by the Court of
Directors of the Company trading to Africa and the Indies, to intimate the
cost of enclosing ground for the said company's intended saltwork. The spot
selected extended to 100 acres of land on the north side of the hill of
Ardmore, the greater part belonging to the laird of Fairholme. Details were
given of the thickness of the stone wall required, and the cost of the same,
and it was added, "a tunn of coal may be set on the shoar at the place for
3s. sterling per tunn or thereby."
There is a further minute of
agreement between Mr. William Dunlop, Principal of the College of Glasgow in
name of the Company of Scotland trading to Africa and the Indies and Noble
of Ferme. This bears that the "said Company having design to set up salt
works and to enclose bayes of the sea, and two bayes seem to be convenient
lying adjacent to the laird of Ferme, his lands of Ardmore and Ardardan ;
because several parts of said lands are benefitted by the sea wrack, which
groweth and cometh ashoar in said bayes, which benefitte they lose by the
Company enclosing of same, whereby the said lands may come to be damaged and
impaired as to their yearly rent. Therefore the Company oblige themselves
and contract to pay to the laird of Ferme the full rent which these lands
doe and have ordinarily payed these seven years byegone. And because the
said laird of Ferme hath ane zaire in said deep baye for taking of herrings
the benefits of which will be lost by enclosing of said baye, therefore the
said Company doth agree to pay such sum of money in all time coming as shall
be determined and awarded by six or eight discreet and knowing persons."
Provisions were made that the Company should be able to cut stones from the
craigs and quarries, and have land on which to build the needful houses they
required. Care also was taken that the laird should be compensated for any
damage done by workmen and others to his "gress and orchards." |
