THE BURGH RECORDS OF
DUNFERMLINE
IN the Annals, date 1473, we note
(also Chal. Hist. Dunf. vol. i. p. 398) that
the Burgh Records were then commenced. There have been erasures in some
of the early dates, and this fact associates with them a degree of
uncertainty. The dates are given in small single letters, as was
customary in those times. The first in the old Record is M°CCCCLXXVIIJ.
(1478). The original date appears to have been M°CCCCLXXXVIIJ. (1488),
but by a clumsy erasure it has been converted into the former date. The
“L” has been erased, and the first “°C” converted into “L”. The same
process appears to have been performed on several subsequent dates on
the first page, which, correctly stated, would be respectively 1487,
1488, 1487, 1487. The first entry on the second page is M°CCCCLXXIX.
(1479). This may have led to the alteration of dates of the previous
entries. The second, and subsequent dates, are respectively, 1488,
1487, 1487, 1488, 1488, 1487, 1488, 1488 after which they flow on pretty
regularly. The other volumes of the Burgh Records are (1) a small
folio, extending from January, 1556, to
15th November, 1575, in
parchment covers. On a fly-leaf at the end of it there is the following
note on the coronation of James VI:--
“Regis Coronatio—The
coronatioun and inauguration of our Souirane James, be ye grace of God,
King of Scotis, the sext of zat name, was maid and solempnizat the XXIX,
day of July ye yeir of Go Javj. V° LXVIJ. (1567) and in the sameyn yeir
upoun ye XV, day of December was Ratefeit and approvit in parliament
haldyn at Edinburgh.”
Vol. iii. commences in 1578 and ends
in 1580. Vol. iv. extends from 1580 to 1591, after which there are no
records till 1673, where vol. v. begins. It extends to 1687 and
continues in a regular series up to the present time.
ROYAL BURGHS AND REGALITY BURGHS
ROYAL BURGHS—An eminent historian,
referring to royal burghs, says, “Early in the Twelfth Century, when the
land of Scotland began to be divided into royalty and regality, those
parts which were known by the term ‘royal’ were subjected to the
jurisdiction of the king, he judges, or substitutes.” At this period
the sovereign and his deputies exercised supreme authority over their
royalties and the town which had been built on them. Some of these
towns were taken into peculiar favour by the sovereign, and invested
with limited burghal privileges. The kin, in his charter conveying
gifts, &c, to one of them, designated it
burgo meo, viz., “my
burg”—hence, a king’s or royal burgh.
Dunfermline appears to have been so
designated as early as 1109, 1112, 1115. (See Annals under these
dates.) As just noted, the sovereigns were the supreme heads of these
little burghs, and deputed judges and other functionaries to “exercise
and adjust” all cases in connection with their rights. Afterwards, in
may instances, when ecclesiastics were invested with the power of
“ruling in civil affairs,” they wee deputed by the sovereign to act for
him, reserving for himself the supreme authority of reversing any
judgment that appeared to him to be faulty. Subsequently these burghs
became differently constituted, and were ruled by aldermen, or præpositi,
who presided over a council elected from amongst the inhabitants, and
who for a long period gave “rule and law” to the burgh. In course of
time, when several trades became of importance, they were incorporated
and their heads, or deacons, became members of the burgh council. With
slight alteration this burgh council continued until 1834, when the
Reform Bill “completely deranged the old happy family system” and gave
such burghs the constitution they now “hold and have.”
REGALITY BURGHS—Those parts or
districts which were comprehended under the name of “regalities,”
acknowledged the jurisdiction of such ecclesiastics or nobles as had
received a grant of land from the Crown, with the rights of regality
annexed to it. Thus originated Burghs of Royalty and Barony. It would
appear that the “ecclesiastics were the first who prevailed with the
Crown to convey to them the right of holding their courts in the fullest
manner and to five judgment by fire, by water, or iron combat, as also
immunity from the superior judges, together with all the privileges
pertaining to their court, including the right in all persons resident
within their regal territories of refusing to answer except in their own
proper courts”. These rights were endorsed generally by each succeeding
sovereign shortly after ascending the throne. We find such right
granted to the Bishop of St. Andrews and the Abbots of Dunfermline,
Holyrood, Aberborthic, Kelso, &c and perhaps possessed, at least to some
extent, by every religious house in the kingdom. (See Tyler’s Hist.
Scot. vol. ii. pp. 246, 247.)
Dunfermline stood partly on regality land, and its burghers paid
annually certain sums to the Abbot as rentals &c so that, in later
times, the Royal Burgh Courts and the Courts of Regality sometimes
became hostile regarding their “real or assumed rights.” Regalities and
Regality Courts were abolished in 1748. (See An. Dunf. date 1748.)
Tytler, in his History of Scotland,
vol. ii. pp. 246, 247, in referring to the privileges possessed by
Burghs Royal and Burghs of Regality, says:--
“At a very early
period—probably about the middle of the Twelfth Century (Reg. Mal.
IV.)—when the land of Scotland
began to be partially divided into Royalty and Regality, those parts
which were distinguished by the term “Royalty” were subjected to the
jurisdiction of the king and his judges. The districts, on the other
hand, which were comprehended under the name of “Regalities,’
acknowledged the jurisdiction of those ecclesiastics or nobles who had
received a grant of land from the Crown, with the rights of regality
annexed to it. The clergy appear to have been the first who, in the
charters of land which they often procured from the Crown, prevailed
upon the sovereign to convey to then the right of holding their own
courts, and to grant them an immunity from the jurisdiction of all
superior judges. As early as the reign of Alexander the First a Royal
Charter conferred on the monks of the Abbey of Dunfermline and Scone the
right of holding their own court in the fullest manner, and of giving
judgment either by combat of iron or by water, together with all
privileges pertaining to the court, including the right in all persons
resident within their territory of refusing to answer except in their
own proper court, which right of exclusive jurisdiction was confirmed by
successive monarchs. The same grants were enjoyed, as we know from
authentic documents, by the Bishop of St. Andrews, and the Abbots of
Holyrood, Dunfermline, Kelso, and Aberborthic and we may presume, on
strong ground, by every religious house in the kingdom.”
Dunfermline Abbey possessed the right
of exercising exclusively a civil and criminal jurisdiction over the
occupiers of lands or other property belonging t it wherever situated.
THE DESIGNATIONS, “CITY” AND “LORD
PROVOST”
DURING the last twenty years the
question,” What is a City?” has frequently been proposed and in too many
instances, puerile and unsatisfactory answers to explain the vexed
question have been given. Many appear to think that the designation,
“City” can only be applied to a cathedral town, forgetting the while
that the term does not originate in an ecclesiastical, but from a civil
root, as the name applies. Again, others imagine that the designation
can only be given to a University town, but without giving their reasons
for so thinking!
As far as regards Scotland, the
historical and charter reader is aware that all cities must be
burghs—must have a municipal constitution, as one of the elements of the
superior designation; the other element, or qualification, consists in
the burghs having a superior status to the common burghs, viz., a
“mother burgh” (metro-burgum), having a jurisdiction over the common
burgh. For instance,
Dunfermline was a royal burgh at a very early period; and the Abbots of
its Abbey, in their temporal capacity, were, for a lengthened period,
the superiors, aldermen, or præpositi of the burgh; and they had, during
their official existence, the jurisdiction of the burghs of Kirkcaldy,
Kinghorn, Burntisland, and Musselburgh. Dunfermline being thus the
superior of these burghs, it had a higher name than “burgh” to designate
its higher position, and the designation, “Civis” or “City” came to
distinguish it, and other burghs having similar claims. It was not
until after 1450 that the term of City came to be used in Scotland, and
long after this period, the names or words “burgh” and “city” (municipium)
were freely used as interchangeable terms of equivalent value. The
Bishops and Abbots of the olden times exercised their functions on a
small scale, as did the Pope in his almost universal sway, for they were
spiritual and temporal functionaries. Sitting in their chapter-houses
on spiritual cases, they could in a moment, by repeating a word or two
become temporal jurists, and convert the court over which they presided
into a civil court. Thus Dunfermline was a royal burgh—a superior
burgh, or mother burgh—and hence a Civitas, or City.
Those who aver that all cathedral
towns are and must be cities, must understand that the cathedral towns
of Sodor, Lismore, Dunblane, Dunkeld, &c had no municipal institutions.
Few inhabitants—perhaps no more than fifty or sixty, inclusive of the
members of their cathedral—being thus principally resident within the
walls of their sacred edifices, the designation of “City” could never
apply to such places. Such were simply Episcopi Sedes, or Episcopal
Seats00not cities. It would be curious to contemplate a city with fifty
or sixty of a population, such as those places had in early times!
Besides being a mother burgh or city, the ecclesiastical and civil
courts held in Dunfermline were
endowed with peculiar and extraordinary privileges. Alexander I
conferred on the judges of its civil court the right to hold their
courts “on the fullest manner” and to give judgment either “by fire, by
water, or by iron” while the jurisdiction of the Abbot was exempted from
“the law and rule” of the Bishop of the Diocese, thus conferring on it
Episcopal functions. The Abbot of Dunfermline was, from A. D. 1244, a
mitred Abbot, and sat in the high courts of the realm. Further
illustration of early designations may be here given.
The designation Empire is superior to
that of “Kingdom”. Am empire has under its jurisdiction one or more
kingdoms; hence “empire” covers the lesser designation of “kingdom”.
A University is superior to that of
“College”. A university has under its jurisdiction, in corporation, one
or more colleges; and therefore “university” covers the lesser
designation of “college”
A City is a burgh which has, or has
had, under its jurisdiction one or more burghs and is a mother burgh and
therefore “city” covers the lesser designation of “burgh”.
Mother Burgh is the head burgh, just
as metropolis signifies “mother” or “head city” in am Empire, Kingdom or
State.
Early in the year 1856, the writer
laid before the officials of the War Office in
London the claim which Dunfermline had
to be called a city, in order that the old designation should be
restored. The following reply to the application came to the writer
from Southampton:--
“Ordnance Map Office,
Southampton, Feb. 6, 1856
“Sir,--I beg to acknowledge
receipt of your note of the 21st ultimo and to say that,
after consulting the Solicitor to the War Department, we have decided on
designating DUNFERMLINE A CITY.
“HENRY JAMES, Lieut.
Colonel, Royal Engineers.”
On the appearance of the Government
plan of the burgh, it was designated “City of
Dunfermline.” (See An. Dunf. date
1855)
AS noticed in the “Annals”
Dunfermline has an old Matrix Seal, as
old as 1570 at least (the older one previous to his date is lost). With
this seal all essential legal documents of the city have been sealed for
upwards of 300 years. Round the inner circumference of this seal are
the words—“SIGILLVM * CIVITATIS * FERMILODVNI”—that is, “Seal of the
City of Dunfermline.” the designation “City” is of no practical
importance now; cities must use the designation Burgh in their
Parliamentary announcements, &c. It may also be added that, on
application being made to W. Anderson, Esq., the Marchmont Herald of
Scotland, regarding this legend on the seal, he said, “Unquestionably,
it signifies the seal of the City of Dunfermline.” (For “Cities” see
Chal. Hist. Dunf. vol. ii. pp. 3-35.)
LORD PROVOST—It has been thought by
may that the chief magistrates of cities are entitled to be designated
“Lord Provost.” It has not been ascertained when or how this title
first came into use. It is certain, however, that on the Records of
several very small burghs there are frequent notices of their “Lord
Provost.’ For instance, the Town Council Records of Inverkeithing have
frequent allusion to their “Lord Provost.” It appears to us that the
title has some connection with the arrangement of the members of old
Town Councils. In the old constitution of the Royal Burghs of Scotland,
at least, we find New Provost and Old Provost, New Bailies and Old
Bailies, New Dean of Guild and Old Dean of Guild, New Treasurer and Old
Treasurer, New Deacons and Old Deacons, &c. It was those only who were
designated New who were the Primus, or who really held office. The New
Provost was the reigning Provost, and hence superior to his neighbour in
the Council, who was known as the “Old Provost;” and as the chief
magistrate was the highest and first functionary of the burgh and the
Council Board, he was Dominus, or the highest in office among the
Council. Dominus was of frequent application in old times to superior
personages. Dominus Præpositus or Lord Provost appears therefore to
have been used as a kind of necessity, to distinguish the real Provost
from his secondary the Old Provost, he being besides the highest civil
dignitary in the burgh. If this is not the true solution, then it may
be left as a puzzle to amuse the future and present historian and
antiquarian. (See “Set of Burghs” in Annals of Dunfermline, date
23rd September, 1724.) It
may be added that the title “Lord Provost,” given to the chief
magistrates of Scottish burghs, had come to be a common distinction in
the middle of the 17th century. To reduce the distinction,
King Charles II in 1667, sent a letter or writ to Sir Alexander Ramsay,
Lord Provost of Edinburgh, which enacted that “the Provost of Edinburgh
should have the same precedence in Scotland as the Mayor of London had
in England; and that no other Provost in Scotland should have the title
of Lord Provost, but the Provost of Edinburgh.” (Vide Edin. Burgh
Records &c.)
LORD CONSTABLE—It may here be noted,
that, from time immemorial, there has been an institution of Constables,
whose chief or head is designated Lord Constable. This institution and
designation may have some connection with the days of the Abbey. (See
An. Dunf. dates 1580, 1600, and 1863.)
LIST OF THE PROVOSTS OF
DUNFERMLINE
(From 1128
to 1878)
As has been previously mentioned,
Dunfermline in early times was a hamlet adjacent to the stronghold or
tower of Malcolm III and seems
to have been erected into a King’s or Royal Burgh about the year 1115
(See An. Dunf. date 1115), the jurisdiction of which appears to have
been vested in the sovereign. In the year 1128, David I conveyed or
delegated by charter his rights of ruler of the Burgh to the then Abbot
(Gaufrid) of Dunfermline, and to his successors in office, with the
exception of his holding the right of “exercising his royal authority
for the good of the public should the Abbot and his court decide cases
with a disregard to justice.” Thus, the Abbots of Dunfermline, in their
civil capacities, were the early chief magistrates of the King’s Burgh,
and his court the tribunal where burghal cases were tried and doom
pronounced.
In the year 1395, the then Abbot
(John) conveyed his right of jurisdiction over the Burgh to an Alderman,
Bailies, &c. (Regist. de Dunf. page 276, Charter 396.) Thus the sway
and rule of the Abbot-Provosts of Dunfermline terminated in 1395, after
having held the right of office for 267 years, during which long period,
as far as has been ascertained by the writer, the following
Abbot-Provosts ruled the Burgh, viz:--
Gaufrid
I 1124
Gaufrid
II 1154
Archibald 1178
Robert
I 1198
Patrick
I 1202
William
I 1223
William
II 1223
Gaufrid
III 1238
Robert
II 1240
John I
1251
Matthew 1256
Simon
1269-1270
Ralph 1275
Hugh
1303-1306
Robert
III 1313-1316
Alexander I
1327-1331
John
II
1353
John
III
1353
John
IV 1362
John
V 1379-1395
Thus, it will be seen, there were
twenty one Abbot Provosts of
Dunfermline between the years 1128 and 1395 after which lay Aldermen,
Præpositi, or Provosts, were elected. (See An. Dunf. for date of a
Charter in 1322 and also date 1331 in the Bruce’s Funeral Expenses.)
LIST OF THE LAY PROVOSTS OF
DUNFERMLINE
This list, with few exceptions, has
been compiled from the Burgh Records. The names and designations of the
early chief magistrates of the burgh are very irregularly entered in the
Burgh Records, and their designations of status, that of “Alderman” and
“Præpositus” appears to have been written indiscriminately as
interchangeable terms. These designations continued in use for the year
1395 to about the 1565 after which period the equivalent of that of
Provost come to be affixed to the name of the chief magistrate, and has
continued so ever since. The name of the Alderman in 1395 is not
mentioned, and the first so named is that of John Wright (Johannes
Wright, Præpositus) who was chief magistrate of
Dunfermline in the year 1448. The
following list includes the names of those who held the office of
Provost from the year 1448 to 1877:--
John
Wright*
1448
David Couper
1487
Sir John
Cockburn
1488
William
Stewart
1489
David
Couper
1489
John
Monteith
1491
Sir John
Cockburn
1492
David
Couper
1493
William
Symson
1497
David
Couper
1499
John
Fergusone
1518
The Laird of
Pittencrieff 1523
John Wemys of Pittencrieff,
Charter 1570
George Halket, Laird of
Pittencrieff 1584
Sir Robert Halket, of
Pitrirrane 1601-1609
James Reid,
Merchant 1609-1612
Thomas Wardlaw, of
Logie** 1617-1623
Alexander Clark, of
Pittencrieff 1623-1624
Thomas Wardlaw, of
Logie 1624-1636
James Reid,
Merchant 1636-1640
Peter Law
do. 1640-1642
James Reid,
Merchant 1642-1647
William Walker
do. 1647-1648
Peter Law
do. 1648-1649
William Walker
do. 1649-1654
James Reid
do. 1654-1655
Peter Walker do.
1655-1656
William Walker
do. 1656-1658
Peter Walker
do. 1658-1661
James Mudie,
Manufacturer 1661-1662
Peter Walker,
Merchant 1662-1665
Capt. Geo. Dury, of
Craigluscar 1665-1666
William Walker,
Merchant 1666-1668
Peter Walker
do. 1668-1674
Robert
Walwood
1674-1675
John
Walwood
1675-1676
Sir Charles Halket, of
Pitfirrane 1677-1684
Captain George
Dury 1684-1685
Sir Charles Halket, Of
Pittirrane 1685-1697
Sir Patrick Murray, of
Pitdennis 1697-1700
Sir James Halket, of
Pittirrane 1700-1705
Sir Peter Halket
do. 1705-1734
*Register of
Dunfermline, page 305, where he is
designated as that “prudent and circumspect man, Johannes Wright,
Præpositus.” (See also An. Dunf. p. 155.)
**Between 1500 and 1617 few of the
Provosts are named in the Burgh Records. The names of the Bailies,
however, are always given.
Patrick Black,
Merchant 1734
The Marquis of
Tweeddale 1734
(Records
from 1734- to 1739 lost)
Lord Charles Hay, of Blansh
1739-1752
Sir Peter Halket, of Pitfirrane
1752-1755
Alex. Wedderburn,
Advocate 1755-1758
Major Francis Halket, Pitfirrane
1758-1760
David Turnbull,
Merchant 1760-1765
John Wilson, jun.
Stationer 1765-1774
John Kirk,
Merchant 1774-1778
David Turnbull
do. 1778-1783
John Wilson,
Stationer 1783-1787
Adam Low, of Fordell
1787-1789
John Wilson,
Merchant 1789-1792
James Moodie
do. 1792-1807
John Wilson of Transy
1807-1808
Major David
Wilson 1808-1822
John Scotland of
East
Luscar 1822-1824
James Blackwood of
Colton 1824-1830
George Meldrum,
Baker 1830-1831
John Kerr,
Manufacturer 1831-1832
Henry Russell,
Merchant* 1832-1836
George Birrell,
Manufacturer 1836-1838
James Morriss
do. 1838-1842
Erskine Beveridge
do. 1842-1843
H. Kidd, Banker, interim
Provost 1843
James Smith Ronaldson,
Banker 1843-1849
William Kinnis,
Manufacturer 1849-1853
Erskine Beveridge
do. 1853-1854
Robert Robertson
do. 1854-1861
John Whitelaw, Ironfounder
1861-1868
Henry Reid,
Manufacturer 1868-1871
Kenneth Mathieson,
Contractor 1871-1877
James
Walls
1877-1878
*The Reform Act came into operation
on 9th November,
1834, when Mr. Russell was re-elected Provost.
LIST OF
FREE BURGESSES OF DUNFERMLINE
THE following is a list of those who
have been created Free Burgesses of Dunfermline from the earliest known
burghal period to the year 1877. The names were collated from the Town
Council Records of Dunfermline by the writer:--
Sir Andrew Peirson, Chaplain of St.
Margaret’s Altar 1497
John Thomson, at ye command of my Lord
Mar 1499
David Peirsoun
July, 1607
Andrew
Law
Sept. 1607
John Watsoun
do.
John Gib
June, 1609
Patrick Murray, of Pardeus
do.
Laurence Alissoune
Sept. 1609
John Henderson, of Fordell
24th May, 1624
George Dury of Craigluscar
do.
Philip
Abel
16th Sept. 1693
The Captain, Serjeants, and the
Corporals of Lord Jedburgh’s
troop, as also William Garrock
25th May, 1695
John Theophilus Desagulier, LL.D.,
London 26th Aug., 1720
William
Walls
do.
Samuel Walker,
Leeds,
England 17th
Oct. 1720
John Wilson,
Dunfermline, Inventor of
Fly-Shuttle 26th Feb., 1780
John Burt, of Baldridge Coal
Works
31st Jan., 1795
The Hon. John Cochran, M.P.
6th June 1796
William Tate,
Advocate
13th April, 1797
Walter Scott, afterwards Sir
Walter
13 June, 1831
Right Hon. James Earl of
Elgin 16th
Dec., 1846
Louis Kossuth, Hungarian
General
14th July, 1856
Ebenezer Henderson,
LL.D.
31st Aug., 1859
Andrew Carnegie, of
New
York 12th
June, 1877
It will be observed that John
Henderson of Fordell, and George Dury of Craigluscar, were created Free
Burgesses of Dunfermline on 24th May, 1624, the day before
the disastrous fire. It has been supposed that this George Dury,
grandson of the last Abbot of Dunfermline, was the elected Provost of
the Burgh. Dr. Desagulier was an eminent Lecturer on Natural and
Experimental Philosophy in
London, and a friend of Sir Peter Halket of Pitfirrane, at whose
suggestion it would appear the Doctor and his friend, Mr. Walls, were
made Free Burgesses of the Burgh. Walter Scott, the eminent novelist,
is here simply designated by his name, he was
not created a baronet until August, 1822. (See Burgh Records and Annals
of Dunfermline under the above dates.)
ESCUTCHEONS AND RELIGIOUS MOTTOES IN
THE OLD ABBEY CHURCH
PREVIOUS to the removal of the
galleries, seats, bughts, &c., from the Old Kirk, in the autumn of 1822,
there were to be seen hanging, “diamond fashion,” to some of the stone
pillars large escutcheons (about 6 feet square), having black grounds,
with armorial bearings, &c. painted on them in white colours. “They
were hung up by heritors and others as deep memorials of their departed
relatives.” It may here be noted, that between each of the stone
pillars, on both sides of the kirk, there were double galleries, which
were approached by “crooked wooden stairs.” In the body of the kirk
there numerous boughts, pews, forms, chairs, &c. The galleries had the
name of lafts. There were the Musicians’ Laft, Wrights’ Laft, Bakers’
Laft, Fleshers’ Laft, Tailors’ Laft, Shoemakers’ Laft, Masons’ Laft, and
Smiths’ Laft; also, the Magistrates’ Gallery (near the pulpit), the
Pittencrieff Seat, Pitliver Seat, Baldridge Seat, Craigluscar Seat, St.
Mary’s Aisle, Rood Aisle, and Communion Aisle. All these relics were
swept away in 1822. (See An. Dunf. date 1822.)
THE PULPIT—It was made of carved oak,
and was secured to the plain round (stone)
Norman pillar, the fourth west from the
“spiral pillar” on the north side. The two iron rods which supported
the sounding board are still to be seen projecting from this pillar. On
the top of the pulpit back were the words—
“Who is sufficient for these things?”
THE KING’S LAFT—The royal gallery
occupied the space between the two pillars opposite to the pulpit—a
little to the east of the front—the bookboard of which we 10 ½ feet
above the floor of the church. On the lower part of its ceiling were
painted and gilded the crowns of
Scotland and Denmark, and below them
respectively were the initial letters “I. R.” and “A. R.” for James and
Ann. Near the top was the crown of Scotland and under it the letters
“I. R.” and the Scotch thistle between them. On the strip of oak
finishing the top of the gallery there were the following nearly worn
out words:
“In
Deum Cogita Qui Dat Vitam Et Necessaria. 1610”
That is—“Think on God; He gives life
and all things necessary.” This gallery, it may be mentioned, was about
18 feet in length. The front was of dark oak, beautifully carved and
gilt in many of its parts. On the western wooden partition of the
gallery might have been seen, partially erased, the following
inscription
“Per
Religionem Deus Cognoscitur Neque Potest Fieri Cognitus Quin
Ametur Et Colatur” and “Hic Deum Adora”
That is—“By religion God in known, and
he cannot become known without being loved and worshipped. Here adore
God.”
THE EARL OF DUNFERMLINE’S LAFT.—The
laft or gallery of the Earl of Dunfermline (afterwards the Marquis of
Tweeddale) was the first to the west of the royal one. On the ceiling
of it were painted and gilt two coronets, with other designs, which had
become untraceable. On the ceiling were the following inscriptions:
“Quum
Deum Vocas
Dominum Fac
Illi Servias” &c—“Vita Christi
Testatur
Humanam
Ejus Probitatem
Miracula Divinitatis
Omni-
potentiam
Lex
Cœlestis Sapientiam”—“Illi
Omnia Credere
Debemus
In
Cujus
Potestate Sunt
Rerum Omnium
Eventus.”—“Petite a
Edo Et
Accipietis,” &c—“Hæc
Est Vita Æterna
ut Cognos-
camus
Patrem Et Quem
Ille Misit
Jesum Christum.”
That is—“When thou callest on the Lord
God, see that thou serve Him,” &c. “The life of Christ bears witness to
His human excellence; His miracles to the omnipotence of His divinity;
His heavenly doctrine to His wisdom.” “We ought to trust all things to
Him, in whose power are the issues of all things.” “Ask from God and
you shall receive.” “This is life eternal, that we know the Father, and
Jesus Christ, whom He has sent.”
Between the Earl’s Gallery and the
Royal Laft, just above the door, there were four square compartments
connected with each other. On the first one was cut the word COLE i.e.,
worship; on the Deum, God; on the third, Te Ipsum, thyself; the fourth
compartment was much damaged, but
COG could be made out and probably when
entire, the word would be COGNOSCE, know; there were also the words
PRAESTES, mayest thou excel; and a little below it, VIVES, thou shalt
live. On the front of the gallery there was a long panel, on which were
cut several words and some curious devices, viz., SEMPER, always the
same; NEC SEDE ADVERSIS REBUS NEC CREDE SECUNDIS, neither yield to
adversity or trust to prosperity. The devices were crescents, a
coronet, a few mullets and two white horses. The pulpit was presented
to Sir Walter Scott, and is still to be seen at Abbotsford. (Extracted
from Old MS. Notes of 1822.)
INSCRIPTIONS ON OLD TOMBSTONES IN
DUNFERMLINE
ABBEY
AND CHURCH YARD
In ancient times the interments were
conducted within the consecrated walls of the Abbey and a small strip of
ground around it. The grand old royal tombs were destroyed in great
part at the period of the Reformation, perhaps not intentionally, but
accidentally, during the process of pulling down the massive walls and
pillars of the interior of the Abbey. There are not now the slightest
vestiges of a royal tomb remaining, excepting the plinth base of St.
Margaret’s tomb, at the east end (outside), of the new Abbey Church, and
such of the tombs or monuments of the ancient nobility remaining are,
excepting one, Pitcairn’s tomb, in a fragmentary state and lying about
the western area of the Old Church, away from their original sites. We
shall here give a few extracts from our old notes regarding them.
The oldest sepulchral stone now
extant is the one in the pavement of the Old Church, near the centre; in
old worn out church text letters are still to be seen these
words—“Johannes Scott: mø bc biii.,”—viz., Johannes, or John Scott,
1508. No opinion has hitherto been offered as to who this individual
was, but as the position of this stone is in such close proximity to the
site of the old rood altar, he must have been a person of consequence.
The writer thinks that he was one of the chaplains or secular clergy
belonging to the establishment of the Abbey service. In the Burgh
Records, between dates 1485 and 1500, the name Sir John Scot often
appears amongst those of the secular clergy of the Abbey who conducted
mass-service at one of the many altars which were within its walls, both
in the nave and the choir. Schir and sir were then used as a prefix to
the secular clergy instead of Rev., and that of Dean to the monks of the
Abbey. (See An. Dunf. pp. 168-179.) There is therefore reason to
conclude that the remains interred under the gravestone were those of
Sir John Scott, a secular clergyman in office, and one of the altar
chaplains.
MONUMENTAL TOMB OF ROBERT PITCAIRN,
COMMENDATOR OF DUNFERMLINE ABBEY
AND SECRETARY OF STATE FOR SCOTLAND.—This large monumental tomb stands
in the north east angle of the Auld Kirk—the nave. It was erected in
1854 to the memory of Robert Pitcairn, Commendator of the Abbey and the
Secretary of State for Scotland. This is a fine specimen of an old
monumental tomb; it is of considerable height and breadth; the lower
part of the tomb rests on an arch, within which there probably lay, in a
recumbent position, a stone effigy of the Commendator and Secretary in
his official robes. The tomb appears to have been painted in different
colours at the ornamental parts and the following is a free translation
of the very laudatory inscription on the front panel of the stone;
“To Mr.
Robert Pitcairn, Abbot of
Dunfermline, Archdeacon of St. Andrews,
Royal
Legate and Secretary of his Majesty.
“Here is
interred, in a plain urn, the Hero Robert Pitcairn, the hope and pillar
of his country, whom virtue, gravity, worthy of a generous heart, and
fidelity, with sincere piety adorn. After various changes of life, he
now, with the mass of his body left behind, proceeds in spirit to the
Elysian Grove. He died in the year 1584 on 18th October aged
64.”
Montieth in his Theatre of Mortality,
page 209, gives the following poetical translation:
“To Mr.
Robert Pitcairn, Abbot of
Dunfermline, Archdeacon of St. Andrews,
his Majesty’s Ambassador and one of his
Privy Council.
“In this
small grave here lies his Country’s hope,
Robert Pitcairn, its Confidence and Prope;
Grave, Generous, loyal, Virtuous and true,
With all the Gifts, Kind Stars him did endue;
From various Fleetings of this life, his Clay
Left here, his Soul to Heaven made Way.”
It may be noted that Pitcairn was never
Abbot of Dunfermline; there were no Abbots after the year 1560. He was
Commendator of Dunfermline Abbey only.
WILLIAM SCHAW’S MONUMENT—Until the
year 1794, another monumental tomb, but of greater dimensions, stood
against the north wall of the church, a few yards to the west of
Pitcairn’s tomb—viz.,the massive tomb of the celebrated “Maister William
Schaw,” Master Mason, &c., of Scotland. It was removed in said year to
the belfry, in order that the minister might have more light; it stood
immediately behind the pulpit. It is still to be seen in a fragmentary
state, in the “bell place” at the foot of the steeple. We give a free
translation of the inscription on this tomb:
“To his
most intimate loving friend, William Schaw.
Live with the Gods, thou worthy, live for ever;
From this laborious life, death now doth thee deliver.
“Alexander Seton, D.F.
“This small structure of stones
covers a man of excellent skill, notable probity,
singular integrity of like, a man adorned with the greatest
virtues, William Schaw, Master of the King’s Works, Sacrist, and the
Queen’s Chamberlain. He died 18th
April, 1602.
“Among the living he dwelt 52 years;
he had traveled to France and many other kingdoms for the improvement of
his mind; he wanted no liberal art or science; he was most skillful in
architecture; he was early recommended to great persons for the singular
gifts of his mind; he was not only unwearied in labours and business,
and indefatigable, but daily active and vigorous; he was most dear to
every good man who knew him; he was born to do good offices, and thereby
to gain the hearts of men; now he lives eternally with God.
“Queen Ann caused this monument to be
erected to the memory of this most excellent and most upright man, lest
his virtues, which deserve eternal commendation, should fail or decay by
the death or corruption of his body.”
MURRAY OF PER-DIEUS’ TOMBSTONE—There is
to be seen amongst the rubbish in the west end of the nave (auld kirk)
the gravestone of James Murray, of Perdws, near Dunfermline. It has
been finely carved. There are two angels’ heads at the top of the
stone, with the words, “MEMENTO MORI” in capital letters, between them;
underneath is a very large shield decorated, below which are the
following words:
“Honorabilis
Viri Jacobi
Mvrravii De Perdws
Monvemtvm
Qvi
Obiit 28 Sept. 1592.”
That is, The monument of the honourable
man, James Murray, of Per-Dieus, who died
28th Sept., 1592.
There is another stone belonging to
the same family in the same place—the top is mutilated, but it shows an
ornamented shield, with “A. L.” in capital letters below; two letters
appear to have been at the top, but are nearly broken off. Round the
three edges of this second stone are the following words:
“……..obvs
Jocobvs
Moravivs De Perdewis Filivs
Qvondam
D.
Gvlielmi Moravii
De.”
Regarding this inscription the late
Rev. Dr. Chalmers, of Dunfermline, put some queries to W. Anderson, the
Marchmont Herald—the initial word appears to have puzzled him—and had
given it as his opinion that the mutilated word obvs is simply Jacobus,
thus giving the singular repetition of Jacobvs, Jacobvs, and adds that
he cannot account for the obvs in any other way. The writer is of
opinion that the “puzzle word” has when entire, been Probvs, and
therefore the inscription may be read as follows: “Here lies the Good
James Moray, of Perdewis, son of the late Mr. William Murray, of
Kirkforthaur.” (See Chal. Hist. Dunf. vol. ii. p. 151.)
DURY OF CRAIGLUSCAR’S TOMBSTONE—In
the north wall of the old church (inside) there is an old tombstone,
having on it, round its border, the following mutilated inscription:
HIC JACET HONORABILIS VIR
HENRICVS DVRI D R VD ID ATIS SAÆ 63” On this stone, in the
centre, there is a shield, party per chevron, and three crescents.
THE GASK TOMBSTONE—In the north
porch, on the east wall, there is a marble, with an inscription in Latin
on it, to the memory of Adam Rolland, Esq., of Gask, who died in 1763.
(See An. of Dunf. date 1763.)
On the west wall of the porch,
opposite the Gask marble, there is a fine specimen of an old tombstone
to the memory of Robert Adie, who died when first Bailie of the burgh,
in 1710.
FERGUSON’S MONUMENTAL TOMB—According to
tradition and several old notes. “the remains of Rev. David Ferguson,
the first Protestant minister, were in 1598 (See An. Dunf. date 1598)
interred below that triangular backed monument in the north churchyard,
on the west side of the walk, midway between the porch and churchyard
gate.” The inscription is now entirely gone.
THE ELGIN TOMB—Until 1819, the place
of sepulcher of the Elgin family
was a few feet to the north east of the mutilated tomb marble of St.
Margaret. Here there was a monumental tomb into which was inserted a
white marble slab recording the virtues of Charles, Earl of Elgin and
Kincardine, who was interred here in 1771. This monumental tomb is
lying in fragments at the bottom of the south tower of the nave. (See
An. Dunf. date 1771.)
THE PITTENCRIEFF TOMB stood adjacent
to the Elgin place of sepulcher,
and was removed to make way for the New Abbey Church, then building.
“GOD’S ACRE.”—The
North Kirkyard of Dunfermline had
anciently an area of about 4500 square yards and therefore, about an
acre of ground for the interment of the dead and was like other old
graveyards, colloquially known as “God’s Acre,” with “The Gospel Oak” in
the centre of it. According to old notes, Dunfermline kirkyard was in
the olden time “thickly scattered over with monumental stones great and
small, plain and carved,” many of them having cut on their surface pious
and quaint inscriptions, as records of the dead. With their names and
years, spelt by the unlettered muse, a few of the old stones still
remain; the following are specimens of rhyming inscriptions on some of
them:
“Time Cuts
Down All
Both Great and Small”
“Of worldly
cares we’ve had our share,
When in this world as you now are:
But now our bodies rest in dust,
Waiting the rising of the just.”
“Reader,
see how death all doun
puls,
And nought remains but shanks and
skuls,
For the greatest champion ere drew breath,
Was allwise conquered by death.”
Another stone, a small one, between
the thorn tree and the walk to the porch, has inscribed on
I a ludicrous inscription caused by the
selection of the “present.” viz.:--
“Here lyes the corps of Andrew
Robertson, present deacon and convener of the weavers of this Burgh, who
died 13th July,
1745.”
While, nearer the porch door, we have
“a naval one,” viz. (William Westwood’s):--
“Tho’
Boreas’ blasts and
Neptune’s waves
Have tossed him to and fro,
Quiet by the order of God’s decree
He harbours here below,
Where now he lies at anchor sure
With many of the fleet,
Expecting one day to set sail
His Admiral Christ to meet.”
Near the centre of the churchyard
stands the “Gospel Thorn,” under which tradition affirms that the mother
of Sir William Wallace lies. The Cross which stood here was removed at
the Reformation, and a gospel thorn put in its place. (See An. Dunf.,
1303 and 1784; also for other Epitaphs, see An. Dunf.)
VIEWS
AND PLANS OF DUNFERMLINE ABBEY, &C
THE following is a list of Views,
Plans, &c (in MS.) by J. Baine, C.E. Edinburgh, done in May and June of
1790. The MS. quarto book of Baine’s views is still extant, and in good
condition; it is and has been, for many years past, in the possession of
David Laing, Esq., LL.D., &c., Signet Library,
Edinburgh:
1. Plan of the Church and part
of the Abbey (occupies 2 pp.)
2. Plan of the remaining part
of the Ruins.
3. Plan of the Town of
Dunfermline.
4. Plan of the Royal Cellars,
commonly called the Magazine.
5. Plan of the Royal Kitchen.
6. View from the Dove cot of
the Glebe.
7. The remains of King
Malcolm’s Tower.
8. Arms on a stone on the
outer wall of Clark Black’s Stable.
9. View of the inside of the
Royal Kitchens.
10. View of the inside of the
Royal Cellars.
11. details of the Arches of
the inside of the Royal Cellars.
12. West Wall of the Royal
Kitchen and Cellars.
13. Walls of the Cells in a
sunk Garden east of the Monastery.
14. View of
Dunfermline near Pittencrieff Dove cot.
15. Windows in the north end
of the Transept of the Church.
16.
Outside of the window below the apartments where King Charles I. and
Princess Elizabeth were
born.
17. View of the
Tower Bridge.
18. Inside of the fine Window
below where Charles I. was born.
19. South
wall of the Cells in Sunk Garden
east of the Monastery.
20. West Wall of these Cells, going towards Frater Hall.
21. View from the Street of
the Cells (from east Arch of the Pends.)
22. View of
Dunfermline from the bend of the Back
Burn, below the Bridge
at Boufies Brae
(north end of town.)
23. View of
Dunfermline from the west side of the
Spittal.
24. View from the
Inn, Bridge Street.
25. View from the Heugh Mills.
26. View from the corner of
the Glebe, showing the Heugh Mills and Ruins.
27. View of the Heugh Mills
from the Dam below them.
28. View of the outside of
Frater’s Hall from the Cells, now filled up with
rubbish.
29. View of the Church from
the same place.
30. View of inside of the
Frater Hall from the east.
31. View of the Church from
the north east corner of the Churchyard.
32. View of the High Altar in the Psalter Churchyard.
33. View of the proper Door of
the Church, long since filled up (great west
door).
34. View of the inside of the
Palace from the west end of the Church.
35. View of the outside of the
Palace from the walk on the
north west.
36. View of the Archway below
the Queen’s House.
37. View from the east end of
the Bowling Green.
38. The Grande Farm from the
south.
39. View of
Inverkeithing Bay.
40. View of
North Queensferry from the point of the
Quay.
41. View of Inch Garvie.
42. A Pencil View, apparently
of the “Spittal Brig.”
43. St. Margaret’s Cave.
44. View of
Dunfermline from the south east.
45. St. Margaret’s Stone and
Road.
46. Supposed appearance of
Canmore’s Tower, &c.
(Also, Measurements of the Abbey Church
Walls, the Walls of the Monastery, the Palace, and the Tower Ruins, for
which see Addenda, p. 758.) To these measures we have added a few of
our own, which makes the list more complete and interesting. Mr. Baine
died in 1815 when his effects were disposed of by public sale. It
appears to the writer that the first half of the “Sketches” were drawn
in May and June, 1790, the latter half about the end of the same year.
MEASUREMENTS OF THE WALLS OF THE OLD
AND NEW
ABBEY
CHURCHES &C.
THE following are the measurements of
the Monastery, the Palace and Canmore’s Tower, taken in the year 1790,
by J. Baine, C. E. Edinburgh, with which are incorporated several
measurements by E. H. taken in 1825:
AULD KIRK
MEASUREMENTS, A. D. 1115
Length of the
Old Church (inside), west door to east
wall, 106 feet; breadth, 55 feet; height of wall supported by the Stone
Pillars, 54 feet. The Columns-5 on each side-from west to east, are 20
feet in height, 13 feet 6 inches in circumference, and 4 feet 5 inches
in diameter; they are about 10 ½ feet from each other, and from north
side to south side pillar, 20 feet. The Steeple is 156 feet 4 inches in
height; the Bartizan is 98 feet from the ground to the flags; the
Steeple is 22 feet In breadth; from Bartizan to Weather Cock, 58 feet 4
inches; the centre of Clock Dial is 59 feet 2 inches; the Dial is 6 feet
square; the Walls of the Church and Steeple are 5 feet thick; number of
steps from the stone floor of Church to the Bartizan, 122. From the
Bartizan a view of part of 14 counties is to be had, viz., Fife,
Kinross, Clackmannan, Stirling, Linlithgow, Edinburgh, Haddington, and
the tops of mountains in the counties of Perth, Dumbarton, Lanark,
Peebles, Selkirk, Roxburgh, and Berwick.
NEW
ABBEY CHURCH MEASUREMENTS, A. D. 1821
Length of New Abbey Church from west
to east, including the west adjunct and Session house (inside) 169 feet;
breadth, inside, 73 feet; height, 54 feet; the tower is in height 103
feet; height of Great Eastern Window, 34 feet breadth, 16 feet; length
outside from outer arch of Great West door of the Auld Kirk to the wall
of Session house, 169 feet.
MEASUREMENTS OF THE MONASTERY RUINS
From south wall of Auld Kirk to north
side of wall whereon the small conical tower rests, 105 feet; from ditto
to the ruins of Frater Hall Windows, 105 feet; length of Frater Hall
Wall, 122 feet; thickness of Wall, 5 feet; number of Windows 7 large
Gothic and 2 small ones; height of Frater Hall Wall, east end outside,
45 feet; Ditto inside, 28 feet; the Great West Window inside is 20 feet
in height by 16 feet in breadth, the Pillars which support the tracery
are each 6 feet 7 inches in height. Small
Tower north corner of top of western window is 63 feet 9 inches in
height outside. On the S. E. lower side of this Tower there is a
cutting into the stone for some feet; the western edge of the roof of
the Monastery probably terminated and lay in this cutting. From the
inclination and direction this cutting takes, a measure of the altitude
of the ridge of the roof of the Monastery may be ascertained. The Pends,
connecting the Palace with the Monastery, is 46 feet in height and 20
feet in breadth. The Arch spanning the road way is about 17 feet
average width, height 12 feet, length of way 31 feet. The Pends in the
lower flat has two rooms; there is a passage leading from the north of
these rooms east into the Fratery. The upper room is 27 feet by 13 ½
feet.
An addition appears to have been made
to the Wall of the Palace Ruins about the year 1540.
PALACE
RUINS
Length of southern portion of Wall,
51 ½ feet; north part, 92 feet-total 132 ½ feet. Height of Palace Wall
inside, 28 ½ feet; on side measure outside, 150 feet. The breadth
appears to have been 29 feet. The Wall runs in a line N. W. and S. E.
nearly. The Wall, Royal Cellars, and Kitchens form part of the Palace
Wall, and being thus continued in a S. E. direction to the extent of
about 45 feet. This added to the Palace Wall of 150 feet, gives a
length of 195 feet to the Wall and including, projecting buttresses at
the ends, a length of 204 ½ feet. The King’s Cellar, or “Magazine,” is
44 feet by 24 and above it are the King’s Ovens and Kitchen, of Nearly
the same dimensions.
