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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I I II THE KEW STATISTICAL ACCOTST S C T L 1 S D. TOU XJl THE NEW STATISTI C AL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. XII. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMBaTTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. VOL. XII. ABERDEEN. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. ABERDEEN. CONTENTS. or \ ABERDEEN, • • PAGE 1 ABBEDOUR, • • « 258 ABOTNE AND GLBNTANNER, 1047 ALFORD, • • • 485 AUCBINDOIR AND KEARNy • 406 AUCHTERLESS, • • • Sr85 BRLIIELVIE, • • 241 BIRSB, • • • 786 BOURTRIB, • • 620 CAIRNIB, • • . . 1017 CHAPEL OF GARIOCH, 560 CLATT, • • • 846 CLUNY, ■ • 1018 COULL, • • . 957 CRATHIE AND BRAEMAR, 646 CRIMOND, • • • 702 CRUDBN, • • • 97» CULSALMOND, • • . 727 DAVIOT, * • 1 821 DEER, NEW, • • • 175 DEER, OLD, • • . 138 DRUMBLADE, • • • 297 DRCMOAK, • • • 872 DYCB, . • • • 120 BCHT, • • « 735 ELLON, • • • 899 FINTRAY, 1 • • 166 FORGUE, • • • • 598 FOVERAKy ■ • 697 FRASERBURGH, • • • 249 FTVIE, • • • 315 GLENBUCKET, • • • 436 QLBNMUICK, TULLICH, AND GLENGAIRN, 772 HUNTLY, • • • 1036 INSCH, • • • 747 INVERURIE, • • • 677 KBIG, • • • 943 KE1TH>HALL AND KINKBLL, 74a KEMNAY, • • %W Vlll COHTBHTS. KENNETHMOMT, • • PAGE 563 KILDRUMMY, • • 976 KINCARDINE o'nIEL, 831 KINBLLAR, • • 114 KINQ EDWARD, • • 274. KINTORE, ■ • 655 LEOCnEL AND CUSIINIE, 1 102 LESLIE, » , 1019 LOGIE'BUCBAN, 799 LOGIE-COLDSTONE 1 •> . 1070 LONGSIDE, 859 LONMAY, • • 215 LUMPHANAN, 1079 MACHAR, NEW, . 1025 MACHAR, OLD, 1074 MELDRUM, 474 METHLICK, 962 MIDMAR, 629 MONQUHITTER, 762 MONYMUSK, 469 NEW DEER, 175 NEWHILL8, 237 NEW MACHAR, 1025 OLD DEER, 138 OLD IIACHAR, 1074 OYNE, 634 PETERCULTBR, 105 PETERHEAD, PIT8LIG0, 396 PREMNAY, 692 RATHEN, 293 RAYNE, 421 RUYNIE, 1015 ST FERGUS, 185 SKENE, 1096 SLAINS, 598 STRATBDON, 585 8TRICHEN, 687 TARLAND AND MIGVIE, 839 TARVBSy • • 667 TOUGH, • • 611 TOWIE, • • 416 TULLYNESSLE AND FORBES, 439 TURRIFF, • • 981 TYRIE, • • 717 UDNY, • • 131 \*-'f rw*^' ^ • «i- - - ■ **» : t 1 i-i" -g /{ r ir ' jf '.g.";' " ' '"-"-^ ;:-::.:r--^-v:rT:.: ,^|, >...«...: L , L ' I "^^fe wrfjVjjf/ ^^^^^^ ^ ,..•''/ ; N ^ •*»• •. •■.«***- f CITY OF ABERDEEN.* PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES FOOTE, Minister of the East Church. THE REV. ALEXANDER D. DAVIDSON, West Church. THE REV. JOHN MURRAY, North Church. THE REV. WILLIAM K. TWEEDIE, South Church. THE REV. A. L. GORDON, Grayfriars. THE REV. ALEXANDER SPENCE, St CUmenU. TflE REV. HUGH MACKENZIE, SpringGarden Church (Gaelic.) THE REV. DAVID SIMPSON, Trinity Church. THE REV, JOHN ALLAN, Union Church. THE REV. JOHN STEPHEN, John Knoxs Church. THE REV. WILLIAM PRIMROSE, Melville Church. I. — Topography and Natural History. Aberdeen, a city of considerable size and extensive com- merce, is situated along the left bank of the river Dee^ near its mouth, extending about a mile from east to west, and stretching to nearly an equal distance northward from the river. Name. — Various conjectures have been formed respecting the etymology of the name of this city, of which the two following are the most worthy of notice : Mr Kennedy, in his Annals of Aberdeen, says, on the autho- rity of the late Mr Maclachlan, Rector of the Grammar- School of Old Aberdeen, that ^^ the Gaelic name, Obairreadhain^ pronoun- ced Oberrayrij signiBes the town situated on the bank or space of ground near the entrance of two rivers ; and is composed of Abair or Aber^ a well-known word, and Da^abhuinn^ f DaHiwin)^ two rivers, namely. Dee and Don. This analysis is exactly descrip- tive of the local situation of Aberdeen, which in former ages was almost at an equal distance from the mouths of both rivers, although about a century ago the channel of the Don, near the town, was altered, and the stream diverted straight into the sea, about a mile • * Drawn up by William Henderson, M.D. Aberdeen, — the articles Ecclesiastical State and State of Education being contributed by the Rev. Abercromby Gordon ; Fisheries, by the Rev. Alexander Spence; Bridewell, by Alexander W. Chalmers, £sq. ; Mechanics* Institution, by Thomas Scott Benzie, Esq. ; Gordon's Hospital^ by the Rev. W. K. Tweedie. ABERDEEN. K 2 ABERDEENSHIRE. further northward than its ancient efflux ;" and he endeavours in a note to give further probability to this etymology, by saying, " pro- bably at some very remote period, Don had continued its former course still further southward down the hollow of the links, till it united with Dee in the harbOur, and both together would form one stream into the ocean. Such conjecture is in some measure con- firmed by the works of Ptolemy and Richard (of Cirencester), there being no such river as Don delineated in their maps, or even mentioned in their tables, while Diva (Dee) and Ituna (Ythan) in the district of the Taixali, are particularly noticed. In the ear- lier records of the burgh, the river Don is distinguished solely by the name of Jqua BorealisS' * The conjecture advanced by Mr Thom in his History of Aber- deen, is expressed in these words : ^* The name Aberdeen is com- posed of the Gaelic A'bar^ and dun^ which signifies the hill in the marsh. Jber, spelt Abar in Gaelic, is a compound of two words, at^, water, and bar, an obstacle ; hence it signifies a marsh."f Various considerations seem adverse to these conjectures. In the^r^^ place, there is no vestige in either record or tradition, of the Don having ever run south into the Dee, nor does it seem like- ly that it should hold for two miles a course parallel to the sea- shore, and separated from it only by a line of sand-hills so low and loose in several places as sometimes to be broken through by a high tide when pains are not taken to prevent it. On the contrary, if probability may be appealed to in the absence of evi- dence, it seems much more likelv that the course which it has held since the year 1727, (when advantage was taken by the salmon- fishers of a breach made in these hills by a high tide or land- flood, to alter the place of its mouth), was the ancient one, run- ning straight into the sea, instead of turning suddenly at a right angle, along the back of the sand-hills. In the second place, no argument can be founded on the silence of Ptolemy respecting the Don, for he does not mention above half of the rivers that run into the German Ocean, and the Ituna which he notices, is not in the district of the Taixali, but on the west side of the island, and has a longitude assigned to it of 18^, 30' while that of Divcb ostium is 26^. It cannot, therefore, be the Ythan ; and as it is termed by him an estuary, and placed immediately to the north of More- cambe bay, it seems clear that it is the Solway which he meant to point out by this designation. And in the third place, it seems • Annal^ Vol. i. p. 5. f History, Vol. i. pp. 28, 29. ABBROEEN. 3 fiur-fetched to derive a part of the name of the city either from the supposed junction of two rivers, or from the word signifying a hill, when the name of the river that runs close by it supplies the syl- lable that is wanting, without requiring to undergo any change. Ptolemy places the river Diva in the territory of the Taixali, who occupied the most easterly part of Albion, and he mentions the city Devana as being in the same province.* These, then, cor- respond with the situation of the river Dee, and of some city near it The exact site of the Devana of Ptolemy has been disputed ; ** General Roy," as Mr Thom observes, •* having placed it at Old Aberdeen, and the laborious author of Caledonia somewhere in the parish of Peterculter;"-}- the former being about a mile north from Aberdeen, and the latter about seven miles south-west of it, on the banks of the Dee. That the Romans adopted and Latinized the name of the river, seems probable from this consideration, that while in very many cases the Roman names given to rivers have no analogy with those by which they are now known, we find in several districts of the Celtic territories, rivers whose present names, though apparent- ly not of Latin derivation, are almost identical with the names under which they occur in the writings of Ptolemy and other an- cient authors, for example the Dee, in Galloway, mentioned by Ptolemy as the Deva in the country of the Selgovii, the Dee in Cheshire, called by him the Deva in the territory of the Cornabii, and the Deba in Guipuzcoa, which is noticed by him under the name of Diva in the country of the Caristi. It need not excite wonder that we find no vestige of the name Devana given to the settlement of the Taixali by the Romans, except in the writings of the ancients, for although the Romans adopted from the natives the name of the river, there was no reason why the natives should give up the name by which the town placed on its banks had previously been known to them, in order to copy from their in- vaders the name which they chose to affix to it It seems in a high degree probable that the ancient name of the city among the natives very nearly resembled the one which it bears at this day, (though, perhaps, Camden goes too far when he charges Ptolemy with having put Diva and Devana for Dena and Denana.)| Mr Kennedy observes, that in old records the name is variously spelt-— Aberdaen, Aberdon, Abirden, Aberdene, and Abyrdene; — * Ptolenuu* Geog. Uni?en. 1. ii. c. 3. f History, VoL i. p. 18. X ** QiUB Derana, Ptolemso, pro Denana, Urbs perantiqua, ad Denam fluviunii qui foko iUdem apud Ftolemanim Dira legitur." Camden, BritaDoia, edit. 1587, p. •55&. 4 ABERDEENSHIRE. and in Latin writings it generally occurs in the form of Abredonia ; but Buchanan, while he uses the name Abredonia as applicable both to Old and New Aberdeen, says of the latter " Hanc cite- riorem invenio vetustis monumentis Abredeam appellatam."* The noun " Abar," is stated bv Macleod and Dewar in their Gaelic Dictionary to denote " a marsh, a bog, a fen," and used as a verb " to join together," hence " a place where two or more streams meet." On a reference to the situation of the numerous places both in Scotland and Wales whose names begin with this word, it will be seen that they are all (with one or two questionable exceptions, viz. Abergeley in Flintshire, and Abernyte in Perth- shire,) situated either, \st^ at the influx of a stream into the sea; or 2d, on the confluence of two streams \ or 3ee.foot," (as Elvan-foot, Bog-foot, &c.) or " Foot-o-dee," (as Foot-ohill.) 6 ABERDEENSHIRE. small fishing village of Torrie lies directly opposite to Futtie on the south side of the Dee. On the north and west sides, the parish of St Nicholas is completely inclosed by the parish of Old Machar, nvhich contains the town of Old Aberdeen, lying about a mile north- ward from Aberdeen, the manufacturing village of Woodside, at the distance of about two miles to the north-west, and the village of Ruthrieston, about two miles distant towards the south-west In this parish are also situated the suburbs of Broadford on the north side ; Gilcomston, along the north end of the west side ; the Windmill-brae and College Street near the south end of the same side ; Holburn about a mile off towards the south-west ; and Dee village about half a-mile off on the bank of the river. Besides these, the new streets which have of late years been added to Aberdeen, and in which many of the best houses are situated, are within the limits of the parish of Old Machar, lying between Gilcomston and the river, and extending westward nearly three-quarters of a mile. Soilf Sfc. — The soil of the parish is on the east side principally sandy, derived from its vicinity to the sea, the beach being here com- posed of fine sand, with occasional beds of small stones. The upper grounds in the other parts consist generally of gravel, and the lower grounds shew in several places extensive beds of peat moss lying under and mixed with the remains of former buildings or artificial soil. There is reason to conclude that the whole of the parish rests on a bed of rock of the nature of granite, and this rock may be seen in some parts of the Broad Hill cropping out to the surface. It has been found, however, in those parts of the town and neigh- bourhood, where boring for water has been practised, that the rock lies at a depth of nearly thirty feet under the moss and gravel which form the subsoil. According to the most recent determination, that of Mr George Innes, which has been approved by the engineers employ- ed in the Government survey, the latitude of the observatory on the top of Marischal College, which stands not very far from the centre of the parish, is bT & 57.8" north, and its longitude is 2^ 5' 41.56" west from Greenwich. The climate, in consequence of its proximity to the sea, is not liable to very great or extreme variations; but from the same cause it is very unsteady. The frosts in winter are not often very severe, although occasionally the thermometer has been observer* as low as 13^, or even 10^; but this not for any long continuanci And in the summer the temperature scarcely ever rises above 70 ABERDEEN. or 75® in the shade during the day, while during the night it is very seldom above 60®. The foUowbg Table, drawn up by Mr George Innes, shows the monthly mean temperature for the last seven years — the thermo- meter being placed freely exposed to the E. N. E., and at the height of 16 feet above the surface of the ground, and the obser* vations being made daily at 8 a. m. and 9 p. m. January, February, Marcb, • April, May, June, • July, August, September, October, November, December, . 1^1 lri.1ft. ld&4. 18^. 1836. 1637. lHi». 33.57 31.14 38.32 40.25 45.91 53.08 58.03 55.13 52.09 45.53 38.92 39.06 40.22 40-68 4189 46.00 49.06 56.17 56.98 57.82 54.64 49.22 42.27 39.10 33 95 37.71 39.81 45.22 55.70 56.21 58.93 55.07 53.78 49 23 41.81 38.24 40.25 40.15 42.10 45.76 54.15 58.56 60.92 59.74 54.41 48..54 43.46 42.12 35.63 39.06 39.91 45.40 49.88 55.69 58.74 58.75 54.14 45 47 43.23 37.58 37.30 35.73 39.88 43.39 52 36 56.79 57.48 55 38 50 81 46.62 39.72 38.17 36.67 38.71 34.74 39.66 46.20 54.61 57.71 55.43 50.96 49 33 39.10 41.04 45.35 Annual Mean, 47.83 47.14 49.18 46.96 46.14 44.25 The fluctuations of the barometer are not in general either very great or very sudden. It scarcely ever rises above 30.5 inches, or sinks below 28. The effect of the east wind in raising it, or in preventing its fall on the approach of rain, is very frequently to be observed. In the following table Mr Innes has collected the monthly mean for the last seven years — the barometer being placed at the height of 45 feet above half flood, and observed night and morning. January, February, March, April, May, June, July. August, September, October, November, December, 18^ 29.947 30037 29.777 30.125 30.032 29.946 30.118 29.907 30.050 29.948 29.819 29.817 1833. 30.2718 29.4093 30.0219 29 7362 30.1055 29.7797 30.0239 29 9435 29 9347 29.7685 29.6882 29.3920 1834. 29.51781 39.9151 30.0269 30.2542 29.9936 29.9115 30.0759 29.8698 30.0703 29.8424 29 8788 30 1790 Annual Mean. 29.960 29.8396 29 9613129.87471 29.7577 29.8826 29.8464 1835. 29.9201 29.4812 29.8428 300831 29.8464 30.0773 29.9742 30.0254 29.6208 29.6a*W 29 8545 30.0871 1836. I 1837. 29.6827 29.73011 •29.3042 29.7827, 30.3706 29.7978 29.8463 29.9745 29.8523 29.6871 29.4334 29.6304 1838. 29.8935 29.6904 29.9445 29.8443 29.95a3 3().(X>24 29.9692 .30.0012 29.9167 29.8833 29-6360 29,8514 30.0268 29.7628 29.7619 29.7619 30.0139 29.8569 29.9038 29.7781 29.9901 29.8307 29 5667 29.9306 No series of observations with the hygrometer has been record- ed, nor indeed are such very satisfactory when they are made. The principles of the various instruments of this kind that are in use are liable to several fallacies which it is not easy to remove, and nearly impossible to make due allowance for. Some of them 8 ABERDEENSHIRE. indicate only the moisture that is diffused in the air; thus almost necessarily assuming that the air in which they indicate the pre- sence of moisture, already holds dissolved or combined with it, all the water which at the observed temperature it is capable of taking. It is obvious that there is therefore a great and a variable quantity of moisture contained in the air to which such instruments are exposed, of which they give no indication. Others are formed on the prin- ciple of estimating the quantity of water which the air, under given circumstances, is capable of dissolving, in addition to the unas- certained quantity which it already has. A third class depend for their principle on the known facts, that cold air is capable of dissolving less moisture than hot air, and that the moister the air is at any given temperature, the smaller will be the reduction of temperature, required to cause it to deposit a part of that moisture, or, as it is said, to bring it to the dew point ; and the hygrometer consists of a vessel having a thermometer inclosed in it, which is to be cooled until moisture begins to be deposited on its surface, when the indications of the inclosed thermometer will show at what tem- perature the air subjected to observation would become incapable of retaining all its moisture. And a fourth kind is founded on the principle, that evaporation is accompanied by a diminution of tem- perature in proportion to its rapidity ; the instrument, therefore, consists of two thermometers, one of which has its bulb covered with moistened muslin, and its indications are obtained by noting the difference between the two thermometers. This last kind of hy- grometer seems to give a more philosophically accurate result than the others ; but there are circumstances which none of them take account of, and which it is perhaps impossible to devise an instru- ment to show satisfactorily. The sensible effects of the moisture contained in the air often depend not so much on its absolute quantity, (or on its quantity as considered in relation to the tem- perature prevailing at the time,) as on some differences whose causes are by no means well understood, by which the air is ren- dered more or less disposed to part with the moisture which it holds, or to dissolve an additional quantity ; and these, though not altogether unconnected with its temperature, are yet by no means solely dependent on it. The indications of the state of the atmo- sphere in regard to moisture and dryness, which are furnished by the flight of insects and birds, and by the feelings of persons of infirm health, are often more delicate, and not unfrequently more accurate, than those given by any hygrometer. That changes in the state of the air in regard to elasticity have a principal share ABERDEEN. 9 in producing those indications must be admitted ; but such changes, at the same time, produce a change in the relations of the air to moisture, which often the most sensible hygrometer will fail to indicate, but which the lapse of a few hours proves to be not the less real on that account. The sensible proof that the air is saturated with moisture seems to be obtained by the falling of rain ; but even here it is not suf- ficient to find that rain has fallen in order to justify the conclu- sion, that the air was overloaded with moisture, or to find that no rain has fallen, in order to warrant the inference that the quanti- ty of moisture contained in the air was less than it was capable of dissolving. Sudden changes in this respect often take place, which are not by any means always proportioned to the changes of tem- perature, and sometimes are even altogether unconnected with them, and which it is extremely difiicult to take any accurate ac- count of. It is true that rain often falls from a considerable height in the atmosphere, and we are therefore unable to judge accurate- ly of the circumstances of that stratum of air from which it is pre- cipitated ; but this is not always the case, and rain is sometimes produced as it were before our eyes, while the previous indication of the thermometer and of the hygrometer gave little information regarding it. The rain-guage may thus occasionally become a use« ful addition to both of these ; though it is obviously not capable of al- ways indicating the actual quantity of moisture separated from the air in any given situation ; l^^, because it will catch a consi- derable portion, (and indeed the greater part of what it does catch, is probably to be considered as derived from this source,) of what is separated from strata of air at a considerable but very variable height above the place of observation ; 2rf, because the circum- stances of the various strata of air through which the rain falls before reaching the guage, are liable to such endless variety, that the quantity of water collected by the guage may be either very considerably greater, or very much less than the actual quantity precipitated in the form of rain ; and 3^^, because when rain is produced from that stratum of the air in which the rain-guage is placed, much of the amount of its indications will depend on the situation which the guage occupies, as that which in the upper parts of the stratum is but a drizzle or small rain, may sometimes be found to be a very heavy shower, if observed in a situation only a small number of feet lower. An observation of this kind was made on one occasion by the late Dr Copland, Professor of Natural Philosophy in Marischal College, who foucid vW v^vw 10 ABEUDEENSHIRE. small and by no means thick on the top of the Observatory, while in the court below it was heavy and in large drops. The follow- ing table, therefore, showing the rain collected by the rain-guage on the top of the observatory, at the height of 74 feet from the surface of the ground, cannot be looked on as perfectly satisfac- tory. Yet perhaps the objections to which it is liable, are (though of a different kind) not on the whole stronger than those that might be urged against the indications of any similar instrument however placed. Mr Innes, with the view of removing these ob- jections in as far as they are capable of being removed, has taken measures for observing the fall of rain in future at two additional stations in the vicinity of Aberdeen ; the one in a garden about half a mile westward firomthe boundary of the parish, where the guage is placed seven feet above the surface of the ground, and the other at the light-house on the Girdleness, about a mile south-east from the extremity of the parish, where it is placed at the height of three feet above the ground. Fall of rain observed by the guage. January, 183-2. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836 1837 1838. 1.35 0.24 2.18 0.34 0.85 1.20 3.91 February, 0.24 2.77 0.93 0.82 0.96 1.34 3.06 March, - 1.38 1.65 0.43 1.13 a35 1.02 3.57 April, - 386 2.12 0.47 0.55 0.94 1.85 2.07 May, - 1.51 0.18 0.78 0.92 a32 0.95 2.57 June, 1.45 3.45 0.82 0.78 1.24 1.75 2.51 July, - 1.00 1.12 0.64 1.38 3.46 3.31 1.96 August, 1.90 0.76 1.08 0.65 1.54 3 81 2.79 September, 1.27 3.63 1.U3 2.73 246 2.23 3.41 October, 2.U7 1.34 1.45 2.06 2-48 0.66 1.64 November, 2.79 3.04 1.65 2.65 5.23 0.38 3.13 December, Total, 2.25 1.54 0.82 0.93 14 94 1.86 1.79 1.79 21.07 2204 12.28 24.69 20.29 .M2.41 The prevailing winds are during the winter, north and east, and during the summer, westerly ; but there is so little of steadiness in this respect, (excepting that there is a month or so during spring when an easterly wind prevails very generally,) that it is difficult to speak with any degree of precision about it. The following table shows the direction of the wind during the last three years, no re- gister previous to that time having been met with. 1836. 1837. 1838. North, 19 38 28 South, 37 42 44 East, 19 10 26 West, 59 28 28 North to east, - 25 24 30 South to east, 45 32 61 North to west 64 65 59 ABERDEEN. H 1836. 1837. 1838. South to west, - . 64 73 74 Two or more points^ - 16 > e.. on Variable, - - 18) GeDerally speaking, the wind does not blow with any great violence, and it cannot be said that there is any particular quarter from which a violent wind may be expected to come, rather than any other ; though, perhaps, on the whole, the north wind may be said here to be oftener a violent wind than that which blows in other directions. The average rise of the tide at the mouth of the Dee is 13^ feet at spring tides, and S feet at neap tides, and the former takes place when the moon is about thirty-six hours past the full and change, — the latter about thirty-six hours after the first and last quarters. The magnetic variation is at present 26** 43' westward. It was a few years ago somewhat greater, having been stated by Mr In- nes at 26<' 45' during the years 1 830-3 1-32--33, and 34. The aurora borealis is sometimes seen here in great splendour, exhibiting a corona of every conceivable colour, and of very great brilliancy from its rapid and constant changes. The hissing or crackling noise which so many have heard accompanying this me- teor, while many others have denied that any such sound has ever been heard^ (apparently for no better reason than because they have not themselves heard it, and cannot account for it,) has been occasionally observed by several persons in Aberdeen and the neighbourhood, among whom the late Mr John Ramage may be mentioned, as well as the writer of this Account, who also had an opportunity once of confirming the observations made by Captain Back during his sojourn in the Polar regions, that the cause of this meteor, whatever it may be, is not always at so great a distance from the surface of the earth as is commonly supposed, for he saw the beam of light distinctly pass between his eye and a small cloud, while it passed behind another small cloud, which evidently hung lower in the atmosphere. The splendid phenomenon of a lumi- nous arch, about P 30' broad, stretching across the heavens nearly in the direction of the magnetic equator, and slowly moving to- wards the south till it becomes more undefined, and at last breaks up when it has passed a little beyond the zenith, has been of late years several times observed here. Nothing can be founded on the frequency or unfirequency of a phenomenon so irregular and so little understood as the aurora borealis ; but it may be mentioned by the way, that after having been for several ^«six% ^«^^ ^^j^^^ observed, it has of late become m>\<3ti mot^ \x^'Q5iKe^-^ "^^^ ^is^^^'^ sg:^. 12 ADERDEENSHIRE. last winter scarcely a night passed in which it was not seen in a greater or less degree. Thunder storms are by no means very common in this parish, and when they do occur they are scarcely ever very violent, and it is not above once in two or three years that any injury is done by lightning to either buildings or lives in Aberdeen or the vicinity. Springs^ Wells, 8fc, — There are few springs of any consequence in the parish, and although a supply of water can be got in most places by digging from ten to thirty feet, it is generally rather hard, and therefore comparatively of little value. Close by the boundary of the parish, on the west side, are two springs closely contiguous, which have been long known under the name of the Well of Spa. Both of these springs, but especially the least co- pious one, are impregnated with carbonate of iron, and they have been noted as medicinal on account of this quality. In 1615, an account of the properties and powers of these springs was published by Dr William Barclay, under the title of " Callirrhoe, commonly called the Well of Spa, or the Nymph of Aberdene." A building which at that time protected the spring having fallen into decay, was repaired by the celebrated painter, George Jamieson, but was not long after demolished by a flood of the Den burn, which runs close beside. In 1670, another building was erected over the spring, which still remains, consisting of a stone enclosure with steps or benches, and an entablature bearing these inscriptions : — ** As heaven gives me, so give I thee." *^ Hoc fonte derivata salus in Patriam populumquc fluat.** « Spada Rediviva, 1670.** These springs have disappeared and been recovered several times within the last two centuries, but until of late their chaly- beate virtues seem to have been always retained. Within these few years, however, in digging on the adjacent eminence for the foundations of the west wing of the New Inflrmary, it would seem as if the course of the water had been disturbed, or some other change produced, the consequence of which is that now the larger spring scarcely appears to possess any chalybeate impregnation, and the smaller one is much weaker than it formerly was. It is generally concluded among geologists, that where granite rock forms the bed of a district, the attempt to obtain water by sinking Artesian wells would be vain ; and Messrs Richards and Co., when they wished to obtain a supply of water for their manu- factory in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen, were dissuaded from incurring the expense of boring, as not likely to be attended with success. Messrs Hadden and Sons, however, about three years ABERDEEN. 13 ago, made the experiment at their manufactory, in the lower part of the town, and with the result of obtaining an abundant supply of water. In sinking this well, they cut through about thirty feet of mossy soil and gravel before coming to the rock, into which they made a bore of eight inches diameter, which was successively con- tracted to six inches, and at the bottom to four inches. The depth ,to which this bore was carried through the rock was 150 feet, and in the course of the operation they found the matter cut through mostly granite, though of different degrees of hardness at different depths. The water thus obtained, which probably comes from seve- ral fissures in the rock, rose to within about eight feet of the surface, but on putting in a pump the supply was found tg be copious and capable of increase. On first using the pump a good deal of air rose along with the water, but in about a month this ceased, and it was then found that, by increasing the power of the pump, a larger supply of water (accompanied, however, by a renewal of the escape of air) might be obtained. The supply thus acquired is now equal to nearly 180 gallons per minute, but the quality of the water is hardish, so that it cannot be used except for condensing. They have more recently sunk another well about 1 00 feet dis- tant from the first, and this they carried to the depth of 220 feet, the bore, throughout being eight inches wide. Here they found the water rose only to within about fifteen feet of the surface, and on applying a pump the supply was by no means so great as from the first, not exceeding fifty gallons per minute, of the same qua- lity as the other, and apparently derived from the same fissures, — for the yielding of the first well is so much diminished by the working of the second, that both together scarcely give more water than the first did alone, before the second was made. Messrs Richards and Co., on hearing of the success which had attended the attempts of Messrs Hadden, began to bore, and after cutting through 18 feet of moss and black earth, 14 feet of gravel and small stones, 4 or 5 feet of reddish clay, and, below that, about 6 feet of loose sand and clay, they reached the rock, through which a bore of 8 inches diameter was driven to the depth of 132 feet, making 175 feet in all from the surface. The rock was of varia- ble hardness, but mostly granitic. At the depth of 1 1 5 feet, a layer of sand was met with, accompanied by much water, and there is reason to believe, that the principal supply of water which was obtained came from this bed of sand. Below this the rock was very hard. * The boring was continued for 60 feet further, but 14 ABEBDEENSHIRE. without any change in the nature of the rock, or any notable ad- dition to the quantity of water. The spring rose to the surface of the earth, and flowed over in small quantity, but on putting in a pump, the supply was found to be equal to about 45 gallons per minute, and of excellent quality, being, though not absolutely soft> yet not by any means materially hard. The only other attempt of this kind which has been made is by Messrs Fisher and Son at the Devanha Brewery, about ^ mile south-west from the boundary of the parish, where a bore of six inches wide at the top, but diminished to three inches at bottom^ was driven to the depth of 140 feet* Nearly the whole of this was through a red granite rock of variable hardness, and the supply of water, which was obtained after boring about 35 feet, not having been materially increased, the attempt was then given up. The water rose to within two feet of the surface, and the quantity ob- tained by applying a pump amounted to about 12 gallons per mi- nute ; but it was so strongly impregnated with carbonate of iron as to be altogether useless for the purposes of the brewery. Zoology. — It cannot be expected that the natural history of a parish which is nearly altogether occupied by a large city should present many objects of rarity or interest. In regard to quadru- peds, the only circumstance that occurs as being worthy of notice, is, that the black rat, which formerly used to abound over all Scot- land, has for many years been altogether expelled from this pa- rish by the large brown rat, which is commonly said to have been imported from Norway. The swallow and martin commonly make their appearance here about the end of April, and depart a little before the autumnal equinox. The beautiful bird, the Bohemian jay, is sometimes seen here, but seldom. The other birds found are those which occur in other similarly situated parts of the north of Scotland. The sea in the neighbourhood yields considerable va- riety of fish, of which those principally caught are the haddock, whiting, cod, skate, and flounders of various kinds, as plaice, &c. Ling, halibut, soles, and mackerel are occasionally caught, and there is no reason to doubt that an abundant supply of some of the finer kinds of fish, as turbot, might be obtained, if the fishermen were in the habit of using decked boats, in which they could ven- ture to go 15 or 20 miles out to sea. An attempt was made some years ago by some fishers from Hartlepool to introduce the tur- bot fishery here, but they did not meet with the encouragement which they had hoped for. Herrings are occasionally caught in ABERDEEN. 15 abundance along this coast, but it was not until about two years ago, that, by the exertions of the late Provost Blaikie, a vigorous attempt was made to establish a herring-fishery at Aberdeen. There are at present about thirty boats employed in this way, and the success which they have had has been highly encouraging, so that it may be hoped that this department of the fishery is likely to be prosecuted henceforth with advantage. The saliron-fishery is carried on to a very considerable extent both in the sea and in the river Dee, and the rents accruing to the magistrates of Aber- deen, and to various private individuals from this source, are to a considerable amount. A statement of the actual quantity of sal- mon caught in the Dee and on the beach adjacent cannot be given, because these fishings, being in the hands of persons possessing si- milar fishings in other situations, it has not been deemed of im- portance to distinguish the fish of each particular river or station. Occasionally considerable quantities of shrimps are caught in pools left by the tide on the sands ; and the fishermen who reside in Futtie use as bait great quantities of sand-eels, which they collect by turning over the sand after the tide has receded. In consequence of the sandy nature of the beach, it affords no resting place or shelter for shellfish ; and the shells which are found on the beach are, therefore, brought by the sea from other situations, and generally the fish have decayed before the shells are washed ashore. Sometimes after a storm, a few Echini and Medusse are found on the beach, but this is by no means frequent. The same observation applies to several kinds of small Corallines, and to various kinds of marine plants, none of which are properly speaking the produce of this coast, nor ever found on it in suffi- cient quantity to be of any importance either as manure, or for the purpose of preparing kelp. Botany. — The botany of such a parish is equally devoid of in- terest or variety as its zoology. The plants and trees which thrive well are necessarily of the more hardy kinds, and there is none of which it can well be said, that either the climate or the soil are so peculiarly suited to them, as to render them specially the pro- duce of this parish. Forest trees of the various ordinary kinds, as fir, larch, spruce, ash, elm, beech, birch, plane, mountain-ash, service, &c. &c., are reared to a considerable extent in the nursery grounds in and adjacent to the parish. The oak seems scarcely to 'thrive now in this part of the country, although in executing the improvements which have lately been carried on in the bar- 16 ABERDEENSHIRE. hour of Aberdeen, the trunks of a good many oaks of large size have been dug up, in such situations as to lead to the conclusion that they had not been brought down by the river, but had grown where they were found. One of these, which, when entire and covered with its bark, must have exceeded 15 feet in circumference, is set upon the Inch or flat ground between the basin of the har- bour and the bed of the river Dee. No great variety of plants can be said to belong to this parish, but by the industry of the inhabitants, to which the establishment of a Horticultural Society about ten years ago, has not a little con- tributed, a great many of the natives of other districts, and not a few exotics, both esculent and ornamental, have been success- fully cultivated, and may be said to be almost or altogether natu- ralized here now. The mineral productions of the parish are not less limited than those of the other departments of natural history. The east parts of the parish lie altogether on a bed of sea-sand ; and the low grounds on the north and east sides, as well as on the bank of the Dee along nearly half of the south side, generally speaking, shew extensive beds of peat moss lying under the vegetable mould. The higher grounds are nearly composed of beds of gravel and small rounded stones* Climate and Salubrity. — Notwithstanding the variableness of the climate, the salubrity of Aberdeen is not inferior to that of other places in the neighbourhood, which are more favourably si- tuated in this respect Catarrhs, pulmonary complaints, and rheumatism, may be said to be the only diseases that can in any degree be deemed consequences of the exposed situation of the town on the east coast of the island. As in every other large town, there is a considerable number of cases of fever and other contagious complaints, which may be regarded as consequent ra- ther on the crowding together of a great number of individuals, and on the unfavourable circumstances in which they live, than on the climate or situation of the district. The tables drawn up at the infirmary and dispensaries give information to a certain extent, regarding the diseases prevalent in a portion of the community; and if there were accurate bills of mortality kept, they would supply a good deal of additional information, though it would not be quite complete or accurate, as many who have lived beyond the bounds of the parish are buried within it, and vice versa. In the absence of this information, little more can be said than that 4 ABERDEEN. 17 instances of longevity, protracted sometimes to nearly a century, are by no means ~of more unfrequent occurrence in Aberdeen, than in most of the other towns in Scotland. II. — Civil History. It would be useless to attempt to trace the origin of the town of Aberdeen, as, in the total absence of records, nothing but con- jecture could be offered. It seems likely, that, whether the pre- sent town can be identified with the ancient Devana or not, there ivould be at a very early period a village or fishing-station near the mouth of the Dee, and this may be supposed to have stood where the most ancient traces of inhabitation in Aberdeen have been found, viz. along the south and west sides of St Catherine's Hill, where the Ship-row and Putachyside now are. Hector Boece says that it was erected into a city by Gregory about the year 893,* but of this no record has been preserved. The earliest document extant relatincf to the town is a charter bv William, granted at Perth, the date of which is with probability supposed to be 1179, and from this time the rise of Aberdeen as a place of note may be dated. It had its share in the troubles and misfortunes of the succeed- ing reigns, and in 1272, according to Boece, it was reduced to ashes by the fires caused by a tempest which devastated a great part of Scotland, and which is mentioned also by Fordun, though he does not speak of the destruction of Aberdeen by it.-f" In 1298, the town was garrisoned by the English; but about ten years after, the citizens took possession of the castle, and mas- sacred the garrison ; having taken part with Bruce, who, in testi- mony of their patriotic exertions, granted them permission to bear as the arms of the town, " gules, three towers triple towered, within a double tressure counterflowered argent, supported by two leo- pards proper, the motto in a scroll above * bon accord,' '* (that having been the watchword on the night when they rose against the English) ; and soon after he confirmed and extended the pri- vileges formerly possessed by the citizens. In 1336, when Ed- ward III. had ravaged a great part ofthe north country, he de- solated Mar on his way south, and burned Aberdeen, killing a great number of the citizens, J in revenge, apparently, for the • «* Aberdoniam ex pogo urbem fecit," Hist. Scot. 1. x. fol. 220, edit. 1526. t Hist. Scot. 1. xiii. fol. 802. — Scotichron, 1. x. c. 90. f It would be out of place here to enter into any lengthened defence of the liisto- rian Boece ; but it seems necessary to notice, that sonaetimes mistakes are imputed ABERDEEN. B 18 ABERDEENSHIRE. dealh of Sir Thomas Roslyne, who had fallen in an attack on the town the year before. * The town was within a few years rebuilt, and seems at this time to have received the designation of New Aberdeen ; — not in contradistinction to the Kirktown of Seaton, which is now called Old Aberdeen, but simply because it was then a newly built town. It seems certain that Aberdeen was a town of some note long before Old Aberdeen was any thing more than a hamlet with a church. Subsequent to this time Aberdeen was repeatedly honoured by the visits or the prolonged residence of the Scottish King, and a mint was established in the town, from which coinages were issued both by David and Robert III. The records of the town council now extant commence in the year 1398, but nothing requiring notice in this summary occurs for a good many years. During the captivity of James I. and the minority of James II., the troubled state of the country obliged ' the inhabitants of each town to provide for their own security, and the citizens of Aberdeen were ordered to arm, the town was pro- tected with walls, the gates being carefully shut at night, and an armed patrole of thirty citizens was daily selected as a guard against surprise. In 1411, Donald, Lord of the Isles, made an inroad on the country to the west of Aberdeen, and advanced with the purpose of pillaging the town ; but the Earl of Mar having collected forces in the low country, opposed his progress, and on the 24th of July a battle was fought at Harlaw, a place about twenty miles from Aberdeen, in which both parties sustained considerable loss, and neither could claim the victory."|- Among those who fell on the side of the Earl of Mar was Sir Robert Davidson, the provost of to him without reason, as In the ])resent instance; Mr Thorn in his History of Aber- deen, says, ** Hector Boece mentions that Edward II. sent ships to Aberdeen, anno 13^)3, from which a party landj[^d and burnt the town fur six days; but this must bo a mistake :** there is, however, no mention of this expedition in Boece's history. Con- siderable confusion prevails in the statements on this subject, some alleging (apparent- ly on the authority of an incorrect expression in Froissart, 1. i. p. 1, c. 57» where he says that, in 1333, Edward entered Scotland, " quMl foula gravement toute la plaine d'Kscosse, et ardit et exillat moult de villespriv^s de fosses etdc palis ;— et coururent scs gens tout le pays jusques k Saint Jehanstone et jusques a Abredane;'*) that the town was burnt in l«%)3as well as in 1330; and that on one or the other of these oc- casions, (for il is differently stated) the fire raged for six days. There docs not seem, however, to be any good evidence fur more than one burning ; and it is by no means likely that the town was then of such extent as to require six days for its consump- tion, though possibly tlic work of destruction by Edward^s soldiers may have been carried on for that length of time. Vide 13oet. Hist. Scot 1. xv. fol, 332. Fordun, 1. xiii. c. 37. • Wyntown*s Chronicle, b. viii. ch. 31. I Boet. 1. xvi. fol. 334.— Majoiis Hist. L vi. c. 10.— ^Fordun, 1. xv. c. 21. ABERDEEN. 19 Aberdeen, who joined him at the head of a band of citizens. His body was brought to the town and entombed in the Church of St Nicholas, where its remains were discovered when the church be- came ruinous about the year 1740.* In consequence of the death, in this manner, of Provost Davidson, it is said that an act of the town-council was soon after passed, prohibitinor the chief magistrate from quitting the town in his official character ; but Mr Kennedy, though he mentions this, and though he refers constantly to the council records, does not quote any authority for the statement, and the writer of this has been unable to find any notice of such an act in the council register. In 1462, the magistrates entered into a bond of manrent for ten years with the Earl of Huntly ; he engaging to protect them in their freedom and property, and they promising to give him ad- vice when required, to keep his counsel, to receive him and his men into the town when he pleased, and to take part with him if he should be attacked within the burgh, saving always their alle- giance to the King.*(- In the course of the next year he called on them for assistance, but not strictly in terms of the bond, for he required them to meet him at the Cabrach, about forty miles from Aberdeen ; but they excused themselves, first because they could not obtain horses, the whole country having been summoned at the same time to repress an incursion made by John Lord of the Isles ; and secondly, because they had been ordered by the King to guard the town against the English, who were said to be on the coast. James III. having been killed in 1488, Lord Forbes and some other nobles came to Aberdeen in the course of the next year for the purpose of stirring up the people to assist in rescuing the young King from the party who had led him into rebellion ; and to aid their object they paraded the town, exhibiting the bloody and torn shirt of the late King on the point of a spear. J The appeal was not in vain, but the citizens seem to have limited the expression of their loyalty to certain resolutions which they passed on the oc- casion. In 1497, a blockhouse was built at the entrance of the harbour as a protection against the English, and in 1514, besides the gimners stationed there, two men were placed at the bell-house on the south side of the river, with orders to raise a fire as soon as the English fleet appeared in sight, while other two on the * Kennedy^s Annals, i. 51. ir A copy of this bond is given in Kennedy's Annals, i. 55. t Buchanani, Hist. Scot. 1. xiii. c. 4. 20 ABERDEENSHIRE. castle hill had orders to ring a bell whene7er they should see the fire. The expected attack, ho>^ever, was not made. James IV. paid several visits to Aberdeen, one of which, though very brief, was remarkable. It was on the dOth August 1507, when the King rode in one day from Stirling through Perth and Aberdeen to Elgin, on his way to the shrine of St Duthac in Ross-shire.* In 1 525, the town was the scene of a bloody affray, caused by Seton of Meldrum, Leslie of Wardhousc, and Leslie of Balquhain, who entered the town on the night of the 1st October with a number of armed followers, and attacked the citizens, eighty of whom were killed and wounded ; but the assailants were repulsed, and the town forthwith put into a state of defence. About the middle of the previous century a public clock had been placed in the tolbooth ; but so little progress had the mechanical arts made in Aberdeen, or indeed in Scotland, that in the beginning of this century, when it required repair, it was found necessary to send it to Flanders for that purpose. In 1514, in 1546, and again in 1647, the plague raged with considerable violence in Aberdeen, and for the safety of the other inhabitants, the sick were lodged in huts erected in the links. When the Earl of Huntly rebelled against Queen Mary, and the battle of Corrichie was fought, in 156'2, the town seems to have been equally in terror of both parties, but the occupation of the place by the Royal army immediately before the battle, and the defeat of the rebels, decided the question, and the Queen's army was joyfully received on its return with the prisoners, and the town was at that time the place of the Queen's residence for nearly three months. At the earliest period of which any record remains, the govern- ment of the town was intrusted to an alderman, (afterwards called a provost,) four bailies, and twenty councillors, who were an- nually chosen " cum consensu et assensu totius communitatis ;" but by a statute passed in 1469, the election of the magistrates was vested in the council, and that of the new council was devolv- ed on the preceding council ; and about the beginning of the six- tccMith century, a custom began, of the councillors once elected retaining their office for life, while the election of provost became little more than a form, the office being engrossed by one or two powerful families in the town or neighbourhood, in proof of which it may be mentioned, that one individual filled the civic chair for • Lcslwi de Gest. Scot. 1. viii. p. 331, ed. 1675. ABERDEEN. 21 twenty-nine successive years, fTom 1547 to 1576. Theseabuses continued till 159), when the matter having been challenged, and coming under the notice of King James, his Majesty issued one of the most singular rescripts, perhaps, that ever passed the privy seal, in which he ascribes the flourishing state of Aberdeen to the council continuingin office "unalteritorchangeit be the spaceof forty orfifty yeiris;" — says the town would become a monopoly instead of an open burgh, if they were changed annually according to act of Parlia- ment ; — and therefore directs the council then in office to continue during life, re-electing themselses annually ; " renunceand and dischafgeand all actioun and persute competent to us or our suc- cessors twitching the contraventioun of our said act of Parliament." This, however, did not give satisfaction, as indeed it could not be expected to do ; and next year the matter was referred to certain umpires, who pronounced a decree-arbitral naming the magistrates and council for that year, and " enjoining the acts of Parliament concerning the election of magistrates, council, and office-men within boroughs, to be precisely observed in all time coming." In 1594, three Popish priests having been apprehended by the magistrates, as abettors of the Popish Lords Huntly, Errol, and Angus, who were then in a state of rebellion, these barons forci- bly rescued the prisoners, and denounced 6re and sword against the town; a threat which would probably have been executed, had they not been soon after subdued, or rather starved into subjection. James VI. paid several visits to Aberdeen, viz. in 1582, 1589, 1592, 1594, and 1600, and, generally speaking, these royal visits were expensive affairs to the citizens, both in entertainments, and in pre- sents of money given to his Maje^fy, according to the custom of the time. About this time, the crime of witchcraft was supposed Jto be prevalent in Aberdeen as well as in other parts of the kingdom, and many poor old women were sacrificed to appease the terrors which the belief in it was calculated to excite. Few of the individuals who were suspected were allowed to escape from the hands of their persecutors ; several died in prison in consequence of the tortures inflicted on them, and, during the years 1596-97, no fewer than 22 were burnt at the Castlehill. In 1639, the town having, at the instigation of the Marquis of Huntly, taken part with the King, Montrose and General Leslie came north, and after harassing the citizens for a time/ and re- ducing Huntly to the necessity of dispersing his troops, returned 22 ABERDEENSHIRE. southward. Soon after the Viscount of Aboyne resolved, to pub- lish at Stonehaven a proclamation, issued by the King, against the Covenanters, but he was repulsed, and pursued by the Earl Marischal, who, coming to the bridge of Dee, found it fortified, but defended by a small number of men only. These he over- powered, and, coming to Aberdeen, entered it without resistance.* In 1645, the town having mostly acceded to the covenant, Mon- trose, who had embraced the royal cause, having crossed the Dee about ten miles up, marched down to within two miles of Aber- deen, and sent a drummer with a summons to surrender. This was refused, and the messenger dismissed ; but as he was return- ing, he was killed either accidentally or by design, on which Mon- trose advanced, and being met by Burleigh's troops and the citi- zens at the Crabestone, about half a mile from the town, a bloody conflict ensued, in which Montrose overcame, and, pursuing his victory, he took possession of the town, which he gave up to pil- lage, putting many of the inhabitants to the sword. The reigns of Charles II. and James were noted for the cruel per- secution of the Presbyterians, and for great distress among the people generally, from which Aberdeen was not exempt. Among the arbitrary acts of the latter, may be noticed his having on seve- ral occasions controlled the election of magistrates, which was not restored to its former freedom till 1689, Some time previous to this (probably at the time when the dis- turbed state of the country rendered it unsafe to dwell without the walls) a double row of houses was erected, apparently at first of wood, in the middle of the Broadgate, by which that street was reduced in breadth from about thirty-five paces to its present breadth of about fifteen or eighteen paces, and the west side of it, known by the name of the Guestrow, or as it is called in some old writings, the " vicus lemurum,"f thus became a separate street. And, about the beginning of the eighteenth century, the magis- trates, anxious to deprive marauders of the shelter aflbrded them by the forest of the Stocket, gave permission to such of the citi- zens as chose to take wood from it for that purpose, to add bal- conies to the front of their houses, projecting eight or ten feet in- to the street, viz. to the extent occupied by the outer stairs — and thus the streets were considerably narrowed, and the town ren- dered less healthy. One or two of the houses thus altered still re- * Spalding's History of the Troubles in Scotland, 4to edition, VoL i. p. 15dL t Book of Bon Accord, i. p. 117. 3 ABERDEEN. 23 main, having a wooden front, behind which, at the distance of about ten feet, is the original stone wall of the house. In 1715, the Chevalier de St George was proclaimed at Aber- deen by the Earl Marischal, and soon after the Earl of Mar sent to demand a contribution of L. 2000 from the town, for the sup- port of the Pretender's army, but of this only about one-half was paid. In December of the same year, the Pretender having landed at Peterhead, passed through Aberdeen on his way to Fetteresso, where he was met by several of the nobles attached to his cause. Although the magistrates at this time were on his side, the town's people generally seem to have been afraid to commit themselves, and he received no effectual aid from Aberdeen. About 1740, some individuals in Aberdeen engaged in the nefa- rious trade of kidnapping such young men as they could entice or compel, to go to the plantations in Virginia, and though many were thus decoyed or forced away from their friends, it continued for a good many years little regarded, and a house in the Green is spoken of as having been used for confining those who were refractory until they could be shipped off. Several of the principal citizens appear to have been concerned in this villany, and it was not until one of their victims, Peter Williamson, unexpectedly re-appeared in Aberdeen in 1758, (for the measures taken to prevent their re- turn, or communicating with their friends, were in general success- ful,) that any check was given to it. He had written a pamphlet, giving an account of the manner in which he had been kidnapped, and of the hardships he had sustained, and this he sold in Aber- deen on his return. For this libel he was summoned before the bailies, and was fined 10s., ordered to beg pardon of the magis- trates, and thereafter to be banished from the town, and the ob- noxious parts of his book were torn out and burnt at the cross by the hangman. Williamson afterwards went to Edinburgh, where, meeting with some benevolent persons to espouse his cause, he raised an action against the magistrates, which was terminated by these worthies being sentenced to pay him L. 100, with all the ex- penses of the suit. In 1745, Prince Charles having landed in the West Highlands, Sir John Cope marched with the royal army to Inverness to oppose him, but he having gone southward. Sir John returned and came to Aberdeen in September, from whence he took shipping ; and in November Lord Lewis Gordon, the Prince's Lord Lieutenant for Aberdeen and Banff, came to Aberdeen, and took possession of the 24 ABERDEENSHIRE. town. Soon after, the Laird of Macleod was sent by the Earl of Loudon with about 200 men to drive the rebels from the town, but he was defeated in a skirmish near Inverury, and the town con- tinued to be occupied by the rebels until February 1746, when it was evacuated on the approach of the royal army under the Duke of Cumberland. His Royal Highness reached Aberdeen on the 27th February, and remained in the town till the 8th April.* A part of the royal army returned to Aberdeen after the battle of Culloden ; and the citizens not being so alert in illuminating their bouses as some of the officers thought they should have been, they ordered the soldiers to break the windows, which was accordingly done ; but the magistrates resented this aggression, and imprison- ed one or two of the officers. Ultimately the matter was accom- modated by the officers paying about L. 60 for the damage done. In 1 767, the harvest being unfavourable, and the price of meal consequently high, the populace broke open and robbed one of the meal cellars in town, and threatened to hang its owner, under the impression that he had wilfully raised the price beyond what was ne- cessary. In order to quell this riot, the magistrates were obliged to call in the aid of the military, and it was not till one of the rioters was killed and several wounded, that the mob was dispersed. In 1782, the alarming deficiency of the crop led the citizens to adopt precautions to avert the threatened famine, and accordingly a subscription was opened, and a committee appointed to purchase corn to be distributed to the inhabitants. By their accounts it ap- pears that, up to the end of July 1783, they had imported 2205 sacks of various kinds of meal, 1 9 quarters of barley, and 9082 bolls of grain. Attempts were made in 1786 to redress certain abuses connect- ed with the administration of the funds of the Scottish burghs, and in these attempts several of the citizens of Aberdeen took a princi- pal share ; but the bill which was introduced into Parliament for this purpose was thrown out in 1789, These attempts were re- newed in 1792, and a select committee of the House of Commons was appointed to report on the matter. This report was present- ed in June 1793; but the odium which was cast upon reform by the democratic principles of the " Corresponding Society" and the " Scottish Convention," induced the prudent abettors of burgh re- form to discontinue their exertions. The harvest of 1799 was extremely unfavourable, and the utmost • The Duke during his stay in Aberdeen resided in the house which is now awd as the House of Kefugc. ABERDEEN. 25 exertions of the magistrates were required in order to prevent fa- mine. But though the prices were very high,* and much distress was suffered in consequence, no serious disturbance took place. In 1802, the celebration of the anniversary of the King's birth- day terminated in a melancholy and fatal manner, in consequence of some of the officers of the Ross and Cromarty Rangers, at that time quartered in the barracks, having become intoxicated while drinking the King's health in the town-house. On their appearing in this state in the street, they were pelted by some idle boys, on which they immediately ordered out the regiment, and fired on the crowd assembled in the Castle Street, four of whom were killed and a good many wounded. It was found necessary, in order to avert further evil, to remove the regiment from the town next morning. The officers and some of the soldiers who were most immediately implicated were apprehended, and soon after ordered to be sent to Edinburgh for trial, but about two months after, the Lord Advocate declined to prosecute any of them. The citizens, much dissatisfied at this, raised a subscription for the purpose of prosecuting them at the instance of those whose relatives had been killed, and three officers and two sergeants were brought to trial, but after a trial of two days, two of the officers were found not guilty, and the verdict was not proven as regarded the two sergeants ; the other officer did not stand his trial, and was outlawed. One of the most melancholy shipwrecks that have ever occurred on this coast took place on the 1st April J 818. The Oscar whale ship left the port that morning along with four others, the weather being fine ; but appearances of a gale coming on, the Oscar and another weighed anchor, in order to stand out to sea. The Oscar was detained by one of her boats having been sent for some of the crew who had not come on board, and the gale coming on from the north-east, she was driven ashore about 11a. m., in the Greyhope, immediately behind the breakwater at the south side of the har- bour, where she quickly went to pieces, and out of a crew of forty- four, only the first mate and one seaman were saved. The same place proved fatal in 1815 to the Caledonia and the Thames, which were both wrecked in one day, and the crews of both perished. In 1817, it was found that the expenses into which the magis- trates had been led in the execution of various improvements in the town, the harbour, and the roads leading to the city, had so drained the treasury, that it became necessary to declare the town insol- vent The amount of debt for which the security of the town was • The price per boll was, for oatmeal, L. 2, 5s. ; bear, li»% \&. \ ^^\».\ft^^nV.a.;^s», 26 ABEKDEENSHIKE. pledged was L. 225,710, to meet the interest on which an income appeared of L. 10,042, while the value of the property belonging to the town was L. 139,440, exclusive of the value of feus in the new streets, estimated at L. 106,851 ; so that time only appeared to be required to enable the treasury to overcome its difficulties. A committee of trustees was appointed, and, by careful management, his object was attained in a few years ; and the last yearly accounts just published show a revenue of L, 20,452, with an expenditure of L. 17,084. About the same time attempts were made to open , the set of the burgh, and the subsequent election of magistrates having been informal in some respects was set aside, and certain individuals were named by the Court of Session to act until the next day of election. Since that time the Burgh Reform Act has been passed, and the election of the council is now placed pretty much on the same footing as it originally was, — the magistrates be- ing chosen by the council thus elected out of their own number. Eminent Men, — It would not be easy, and perhaps it is not ne- cessary, to draw the line very nicely between those men of talents and celebrity who have lived in Aberdeen, and those who have been principally connected with Old Aberdeen. The notice here given can only embrace a few of the principal, and must necessarily be very brief. * John Barbour was born in 1330, and is said to have been the son of a citizen who lived in the Castlegate. He is known by his office of Archdeacon of Aberdeen, and as the author of the me- trical history of Robert Bruce, which, as Mr Kennedy naively remarks, " has not yet lost its reputation," adding, " the style of his composition is regarded by the learned of both kingdoms as an ornament to our language, and not inferior to that of his con- temporary Chaucer." David Anderson of Finzeauch, commonly known by the appel- lative of " Davie do a'-thing," was noted for his mechanical genius, and in the year 1618 promoted the improvement of the Iiarbour, by removing a large rock which lay in the middle of the channel at its entrance. George Jamieson, the son of Andrew Jamieson, a burgess of Aberdeen, who was born about 1586, is deservedly celebrated as a painter of portraits, and his pictures are remarkable for their soil- ness and the clearness of the colouring. Lists of them are given in Mr Thom's history of Aberdeen, and in the Statistical Account in 1797. It may not be out of place to notice, that there are still preserved, at the back of the magistrates' gallery in the West ABERDEEN. 27 Church, two pieces of tapestry worked by Mr Jatnieson's daughter, Mary, representing Jephthah's Vow, and Susannah and the Elders. James Gregory, the inventor of the reflecting telescope, was born in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen in 1638, and educated at Marischal College. He was afterwards Professor of Mathematics, first at St Andrews and then at Edinburgh. Edward Raban is worthy of note, as having been the first printer established at Aberdeen, where he settled in 1621. Mr Alexander JaffVay, the son of a citizen of Aberdeen, oc- cupied the civic chair in the years 1641 and 1649,* and was highly beneficial to the community, by the judgment and mo- deration which he exhibited in the direction of the affairs of the town in very difiicult times, as well as by the zeal which he dis- played for the promotion and maintenance of the true religion, though in his latter days he shewed a considerable want of steadi- ness, and ultimately became an adherent of the Society of Friends. James Gibbs was born in Aberdeen in 1688, and studied ar- chitecture in Italy, after which he settled in London, where he acquired both reputation and fortune. It is to his taste and talent that the design of the Church of St Martin in the Fields is said to be due ; and he gave the plan also for the West Church in Aber- deen. John Gregory was born in Aberdeen in 1724, and, having studied medicine, became Professor, first in King's College and afterwards in Edinburgh, where, on his death, he was succeeded by his son, the late eminent Dr James Gregory, who also was born in Aberdeen. John Ramage, who was a currier and leather-merchant in Aber- deen, deserves notice here on account of his devotion to scien- tific pursuits, and his great practical acquaintance with the con- struction of reflecting telescopes ; one of which, made by him, is placed in the Royal Observatory, and, though considerably infe- rior in size, is said to be nearly equal in power to Herschers 40 feet reflector. Connected with Aberdeen, we must mention Dr Robert Hamil- ton, formerly Professor of Natural Philosophy, and afterwards of Mathematics, in Marischal College, the author of an Essay on the National Debt, which has often been referred to as one of the ablest and most perspicuous elucidations of the principles of the Aleiander Jaffray, who was Provost in 163G and 1G38, is generally supposed to be thf^fother of the other, who in 1636 was not more than twenty years of age. 28 ' ABERDEENSHIRE. Sinking Fund ; and Dr Patrick Copland, wha was Professor in Marischal College, at first of Mathematics and afterwards of Na- tural Philosophy, who enriched the collection of apparatus there . with a great variety of models, made under his own eye, and many of them with his own hand, so that at his death the apparatus- room of Marischal College contained a collection probably supe- rior both in extent and accuracy to any other collection in Scotland. It is not necessary to do more than mention the names of such men as Dr Thomas Blackwell, Dr George Campbell, Dr Thomas Reid, Dr James Beattie, Dr Gilbert Gerrard, and Dr William Laurence Brown, all of whom were either natives of Aberdeen, or for a considerable portion of their lives resident in it. Neither would it be seemly in closing this list to say more than that Dr John Abercrombie is a native of Aberdeen, and that Sir James Macgrigor received the first elements of his professional education as the pupil of a medical man in Aberdeen. Ecclesiastical State. — Little precise information can be given re- garding the early ecclesiastical state of Aberdeen, except that, for two or three centuries preceding the Reformation, there were in the town, houses of Dominican, Franciscan, and Carmelite Friars, and a monastery dedicated to the Holy Trinity, as well as a parish church dedicated to St Nicholas ; and that there is no reason to doubt that in Aberdeen, as in other parts of Scotland, ^^ the form of Popery which prevailed was of the most bigotted and illiberal kind, and its superstitions and absurdities had grown to an extra- vagant height." * Malcolm having gained a victory over the Danes at Mortlach, in Banffshire, in 1010, founded a bishopric there, which was trans- ferred to Aberdeen in 1139. The bishop fixed his residence at Seaton, on the right bank of the Don, about half a mile from its mouth, and, in consequence of this, the cathedral church was erected there.-(- The church of St Nicholas, as being a depen- dency of the bishopric, was served by a vicar (who was generally the sixth prebendary of the cathedral,) together with a curate, and chaplains, the number of whom was twenty-two in 1491, but in 1519 they were restricted to sixteen. The influence of Protestant truth seems to have early begun to manifest itself in Aberdeen; for, in 1521, Mr John Marshall, * Kennedy*B Annals of Aberdeen, Vol. i. p. 109. t That portion of the Cathedral Church which it still entire is used as the parish church of Old Machar at the present time. ABERDEEN. 29 master of the Grammar School, was summoned before the magis- trates for contempt of the Church of Rome. He answered bold- ly that he did not consider himself amenable to the court of Rome. But two years afterwards, he expressed his contrition, which, as Mr Kennedy observes, '' probably saved him from the dreadful punishment which generally awaited the enemies of that church." In 1525, the principles of the Reformation had made such pro- gress in Aberdeen, that the King sent orders to the Sheriff to search for and punish those who had in their possession heretical books, it being alleged that several strangers and others within the diocese of Aberdeen were busied in propagating the errors of Luther. Ultimately, however, the truth prevailed, and the following ex- tract from the council records, of date 4th October 1560, shews the zeal and cordiality with which the cause of the Reformation was at that time embraced by the magistrates : ^^ The haill coun- sell present for the tyme oblist thaim faithfullie to assist and coun- cil with the Provost and Baillies, obey and fortifie the same in ex- ecutione of all actis and statutis devysit and mayd be the counsell for the comound weill of this burgh and mantenans of Chryste^s religioune, at thair uter power ; and peyne to be imputt alsweill upoune the said counsell as upoune thesaidis Provest and Baillies for observans of the present statute, that is to say, under the paine of deprivatione of thair offices, gouns, and dignities, and tynsell of thair fredorae to be att the counsells will." The parochial charge of the town was committed to Mr Adam Heriot, who had been an Augustinian friar, but who having re- nounced the errors of Popery, had joined himself to the Congre- gation, and the time of his admission to the office seems to be near- ly fixed by the following entry in the council records of the same date with the preceding : *^ The counsell ordains the thesaurer to pay Adam Heriot, minister of the towne, thq soume of twa hun- dreth pounds, usuall money of Scotland, for his ministratione and preching for the space of ane zeir nixt and immedyately following the first day of November nixt to cum." In January 1561-2, the silver and brass work belonging to the church, which had in the meantime been entrusted to the care of a member of the council, was sold by public roup for the common good ; and the magistrates about the same time resolved to abolish the monasteries, and to raise forty men for the service of the Con- gregation. They seem, however, to have been partly induced to 30 ABERDEENSHIRE. this resolution by a visit which they had shortly before received from some of the Reformers of the south. In 15679 the Provost of Aberdeen, writing to excuse his non-at- tendance at the General Assembly called for the 26th of July, expresses the mind of the town as follows : " It shall please your wisdomes understand and most assuredly believe us, professors of the Evangell of the Kirk within the burgh of Aberdeen, to be of ane minde, and be the grace of God to continue, to the mainte- nance of the furthsetting of the glory of God, teaching of the true Evangell, and sustentation of the ministers, with help unto the poore, and unto the tyme your wisdomes with the nobilitie find ane order universall for the ministrie, we shall, for our own part, God willing, sustaine our minister, so that of reason he shall have no cause to plaint, and to the poore after our power doe semblablie as uther burroughs shall take order."* At the commencement of the Reformation in Aberdeen, a mis- sionary (of assistant to the minister) seems to have been employ- ed, as may be gathered from the following entry in the council re- cords of 11th October 1560: '^ The counsell ordanis David Mar, thesaurer, to deliver Johne Brabaner ane garmound of cleithing of Frensche or Flanders blak, that is to say, bonnet, goune, coitt, hoiss, and doublatt, for his labours, cair, and diligens taine in tymes bygaine, in preching, teching, and administratione of the sacra- mentis, without ony recompens." Mr Heriot was greatly respected for his worth and usefulness, and on his death in 1574 he was succeeded by Mr John Craig, who had been for nine years the colleague of Knox in Edinburgh, and afterwards minister at Montrose. In 1579, Episcopacy was introduced into the Church of Scot- land, and David Cunningham was installed the first Protestant bi- shop of Aberdeen. In the struggles which afterwards took place for the abolition of that form of church government, as well as in the opposition made by the country to the ecclesiastical proceed- ings, in general, of James and his descendants, the citizens of Aberdeen, influenced by their feelings of loyalty, and under the. guidance of their teachers, seem generally to have been less zeal- ous than their countrymen in other quarters. Stevenson having mentioned, (in his History of the Church and State of Scotland) the prevalent feeling in favour of the Covenant, makes the follow- ing exceptions: — " Is^, Papists; 2(1, Courtiers who had no • Bookc of ihe Universall Kirk of Scotland, p. 63. ABERDEEN. 31 will to displease the King ; and 3d, Clergy, of whom the chief were the Doctors of Aberdeen." He goes on to say that the town, be- ing much under the influence of the Marquis of Huntly and the Doctors, (viz. Dr John Forbes, Dr Robert Barron, Dr William Leslie, Dr Alexander Scrogie, Dr James Sibbald, and Dr Alex- ander Ross,) refused to subscribe the Covenant, which, with a view to their concurrence, had been sent to them in April 1638, by the hands of a commission from the Tables, consisting of the Lairds of Dun, Morphy, Balmain, and Leyes, Mr Alexander Wedder- burn. Clerk of Dundee, and Mr Robert Barclay, Provost of Ir- vine.* A short time before this, Aberdeen had been appointed as the place of residence or exile of Samuel Rutherfurd, when he was ejected from his parish of Anwoth, and Dr Barron undertook the task of conferring with him, and bringing him to alter his views on the question which then agitated the church and the nation. The result of these conferences is stated by Rutherfurd in one of his letters, in his usual homely but expressive manner, ^' Twa yokings laid him by." On the 20th of July 1638, another com- mission, consisting of the Earls of Montrose and Kinghorn, the Lord Cowper, the Master of Forbes, the Lairds of Leyes and Morphie, with Messrs Alexander Henderson, David Dickson, and Andrew Cant, ministers, came to Aberdeen, and though at first some difficulty occurred with the magistrates, and the covenanting ministers were refused access to the town's pulpits, yet about 500 subscribed after public worship in Earl Marischal's Close, of whom several were persons of the best quality in the place.-f* But though considerable progress had been made among the citizens, the doc« tors continued adverse to the Covenant, and were both active and successful in their efforts to gain others to their opinions, and to repress the zeal of their covenanting fellow-citizens ; in conse- quence of which proofs of their " good affectioune to his service," they received from Charles L various communications expressive of his ^^ hartie thanks," and assurances that ^' when anie thing that may concerne * your good shall occurr we shall not be unmyndful of the same.' " This promise the monarch performed not long after, * Spalding in his History of the Troubles in Scotland, (4to cd. Vol. i. p. 54,) gives only the Lairds of Dun, Morphy, and Leyes, and Carnegie of as forming this first Commission. i* An evidence of the eflect produced by this second visit is furnished by the fol- lowing extract from a minute of Council, of date 25th December 1639. *' The quhilk day, the Provest, Baillies, and Council agrios all in anc voice that Mr Alexan- der Henderson be delt with to accept the chairge of the ministrie within this burgh in the vacant roume of umquhile Dioctor Alexander Ross, and that the magistrates writt to him, and use all fair and possible means for his transplantation.*' 32 ABERDEENSUIIIE. by grauting a new Royal charter to the burgh, confirming in the most ample manner all their ancient rights, privileges, and immu- nities. In the latter part of this troubled reign, the citizens of Aberdeen seem to have become more generally favourable to the cause of the Covenanters, the consequence of which was, that they had now to endure the exactions of its enemies, as they had for^ merly suffered from the hostile attacks of its adherents. Yet it may be doubted whether many of them were not influenced rather by the success which attended the Covenanters, than by any well- grounded persuasion of the goodness of their cause. On the acces- sion of Charles IL, and there-establishment of Episcopacy, *'the Synod of Aberdeen distinguished itself by an humble address to his Majesty's High Commission and the High Court of Parliament, in favour of Episcopacy, dated at King's College, 18th April 1661, in which they strongly reprobate their own former conduct ;"* and this seems to have been the beginning of a course of time-serving compliance, by which they contrived in a great measure to escape from the exactions and persecutions to which the Presbyterians were exposed during that and the subsequent reign. At length the Revolution brought these persecutions to a close, and led to the establishment of Presbyterianism, as at present existing in the country ; but while the people of Aberdeen gave way to those who had power to enforce their commands, considerable numbers of them continued attached to the Episcopal forms, and the Pres- byterians of Aberdeen were by no means remarkable for their zeal in maintaining the doctrines of the Confession of Faith. The Ar- minianism which, during the last century, infested the church of Scotland to so lamentable a degree, may be said to have had one of its strongholds in Aberdeen ; and about the middle of the cen- tury, Mr John Bisset, minister of the West Church, who continu* ed faithfully to preach the doctrines of the church to which he belonged, was excluded from his own pulpit by the provost, who locked the church door against him. It was not until about the beginning of the present century that a better spirit began to manifest itself in the pulpits of Aber- deen. Since that time, a brighter day has dpwned on the Church of Scotland in general. The churches in Aberdeen have partaken of its light, and the doctrines of the Confession of Faith have now • Thorn's History of Alierdeen, Vol. i. p. 346. 4 ABERDEEN. 33 some as staunch supporters in the town and its neighbourhood, as are to be found in any other part of the country. The old parish of St Nicholas had, from an early period, three churches, the East, the West, and Grayfriars, the two former of which Had been, for a period of at least 150 years, collegiate charges, and the town, though constituting but one parish, was divided into districts under the special charge of each of the incumbents. As the population increased, additional church accommodation became requisite, and several chapels of ease were at various times erected, as is noted below more particularly. By a decree of the Court of Teinds in 1828, the parish of St Nicholas was divided into six parishes. By a subsequent Act of the General Assembly, the chapels of ease were each connected with a parochial district ^Uoad sacra ; the effect of these two measures was to increase the number of parish churches to ten ; and within the last few weeks a congregation of Original Burgher Seceders has been received back into connection with the Church of Scotland, and is about to have a parochial charge quoad sacra allotted to iLs minister. By this division of the town, a very important object has been attained, inasmuch as parochial superintendence is not now so completely out of the power of the ministers as it formerly was, though still the population of most of the parishes is so great as to prevent that close and intimate connection between the minister and his people, which the parochial system, if properly followed out, should produce and maintain. And when it is considered that each minister, in addition to the parochial charge of an al* lotted district, must also have a congregational charge, in conse- quence of many of his hearers not being resident within that dis- trict, it will be at once admitted that there is both room and cause for a still further division. The places of worship in Aberdeen in connection with the Es- tablished Church are* the following: — 1. The West Church, which stands on the site of the old church /)f St Nicholas. This building having become ruinous and unsafe, was disused as a place of worship in 1732. The present church was founded in 1751, and opened for Divine service in 1755. It ceased to be a colle- giate charge on the death of the Rev. Dr Brown. 2. The East Church stands where the quire of St Nicholas formerly was. It was erected in 1834, — the quire, which had been till then used, hav* ing become so ruinous, that it was judged necessary to pull it down. This was a collegiate charge until the division of the town ABERDEEN. C 34 ABERDEENSHIRE. into six parishes took place. 3. Grayfriars Churchy which derives its name from the monastery of Franciscan friars, to which it for- merly belonged, is the only ancient church now remaining in the town. 4. Futtie Church or St Clements. There had been, before the Reformation, a chapel in Futtie, dedicated to St Clement, but this having fallen into decay, there was no Protestant church erected in its place till 1631, when a contribution was made for the pur- pose of building one, and a catechist was settled there. The pre- sent church was erected on the site of the old one, but considera- bly enlarged in size in the year 1828. 5. The South Church. In 1779, a chapel was built in connection with the Relief body, which, however, a few years afterwards, became connected with the Established Church. The old chapel, being incommodious and insufficient for the congregation, was pulled down in 1830, and the South Church was built on its site. 6. The North Church was erected in 18'26. These are the six parishes, qttoad civilioy into which the old parish of St Nicholas was divided, as already mentioned. The parishes quoad sacra Sive the following: — 1. Trinity Church was built in 1794 as a chapel of ease to the Establishment. 2. Gaelic Church. This place of worship was erected in 1795, and it continues to be used by those of the population who speak the Gaelic language. It has a small parochial district allotted to it, under the name of Spring Garden parish. 3. Union Church was erected as a chapel of ease in 1822. 4. John Knox's Church was built in 1833 as a chapel of ease. 5. A place of worship, in connection with the Original Burgher Associate Synod, was erected in 1771. The causes which had produced and kept up the separa- tion between this body and the Establishment having been happily removed, its minister, the Rev. William Primrose, has been recently received as a member of presbytery, and a committee of that pres- bytery is at present engaged in allotting Wm a parochial district, under the name of Melville Parish. Besides these, there was a small chapel erected in the neighbourhood of the harbour, in 1825, by the Seamen's Friend Society. This was for a time supplied indiscriminately by ministers of the Establishment, and various de- nominations of orthodox Dissenters. Efforts have been made of late to place it in connection with the Established'Church, and to have a small parochial district assigned to it, and there is every probability that, in a short time, these efforts will be successful. There is also a place of worship in Aberdeen connected with ABERDEEN. 35 the Associate Synod of Original Seceders, which it is much to be desired that the way might be opened for receiving back into the Establishment. The other places of worship in Aberdeen are as follows : — 3 cha- pels belonging to the Congregational Union ; 3 chapels connected with the United Associate Synod ; 1 chapel in connection with the Relief body ; 2 chapels belonging, the one to the Scotch and the other to the English Baptists; 1 chapel belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists ; i English Episcopal chapel, with two clergymen ; 1 Scotch Episcopal chapel, with a bishop and a curate ; 1 Roman Catholic chapel ; 1 chapel which is called the United Christian Church. In addition to all these, there are also in Aberdeen small num- bers of Friends, Glassites, Irvingites, and Unitarians, which have each their own place of worship. The following table gives a summary view of the ecclesiastical state of the inhabitants of Aberdeen, as ascertained by surveys made chiefly by the elders of the respective parishes, and given in to the Royal Commissioners for Religious Instruction, when they visited this city in October 1837.* Unconnected Parish. Population. Establishment. Dissenters. with any church. East, . 4512 2623 1421 468 West, . 2024 1277 611 136 North, 4848 2864 1567 417 South, . 2837 1876 775 186 Grayfriars, 2538 1661 671 204 St Clements, 3992 3044 asi 117 Trinity, . 2252 1425 584 243 Union, . 3693 2407 1156 • 130 Spring Garden, 1486 852 425 209 John Knox's, 3172 2041 922 209 Total, 31354 . 20070 . 8963 . 2319 There is too much reason to fear, that, although the surveys on which this table is founded were made with every possible care, there are many included under the heads both of the Establish- ment and Dissenters who are little, if at all, in the habit of fre- quenting any place of worship. And it must be remembered, too, that the strongest attachment to the forms of a professing church is unhappily too often found to be compatible with an utter disre- gard or even a deliberate rejection of the saving truths of the Gos- pel. * In this table, undei' the head of Dissenters, are included both those, ^^scv^-nvycc^* twoB that are friendly and those that are adverse lo \.Vv«i ytvcv^iv^^ ^'l *• vs»:«^'a!«»^ church. 3G ABERDEENSHIRE. The extent of church accommodation provided in Aberdeen at the time of the survey was reported to the Commissioners to be as follovtrs ; and it has undergone no material alteration since, except- ing the recent admission of Mr Primrose's church into the Esta- blishment : — Total Ri'ttings. Let. Unlet. In the Establishment, . . 17271 14700 2571 In the various denomination of Dissenters, 133*22 6249 7073 30593 20949 9644 The stipends paid to the ministers of the East, West, and North parishes are L. 300 a year each ; and to the ministers of the South, Gray friars, and St Clements L.250 each; but in title case of the South Church it is made up to L. 300 by the congregation. The incomes of the other ministers in the Establishment are various, according to the amount of seat-rents, collections, &c. from which they arc paid. The ministers of other denominations are, in this respect, situ* ated nearly as the ministers of the five parishes quoad sacra. The above-mentioned stipends, paid to the ministers of the six parishes quoad civilia^ are paid out of certain funds administered by the Magistrates and Council, arising from mortificationS| seat- rents, &C., and in case of a deficiency of these, it is made up from the " common good," so called, it is to be presumed, as being the property of the community, and designed for the advancement of the welfare and true interests of the city; the principal means of which is, without doubt, the maintenance of the worship of God and the ordinances of religion, since, without these, all other ef- forts for the preservation of a sound state in the community would be in vain. In reference to this important object, it may be observed, that the remuneration of the labours of the ministry should be regard- ed in the same light as that of any other public functionary ; and that the services being performed, they should receive their in- comes as the price of the work done, and an acknowledgement of the good which they have been instrumental in effecting. It hap- pens sometimes, however, that a minister is expected not only to give his services to the public, but also to provide the funds out of which these services are to he paid. This must necessarily be the case where, as in most of the Dissenting chapels and the pa- rishes quoad sacra^ there are no other funds from whence the mi- nister's stipend can be paid. Accordingly, in the case of those pa- rishes tor the stipend of whose ministers the magistrates and coun- ABERDEEN. 37 oil are held responsible, if the seat rents, &c. do not suffice for that purpose, the sum drawn from the common good to make up the deficiency is regarded as a debt incurred, or rather as so much lost, seeing there can be little prospect of repayment. The fal- lacy of this view will be obvious, if the following statement, which was made by the Rev. James Foote to the Royal Commissioners, be considered : ** The expenditure on the churches was L. 2124, 15s. lid.: the mortifications amounted to L.285; the rental of the East Church for the year 1837, and the average collections in that church for five years, amounted to L. 950, 10s. Id.; and the rental and collections of the West Church amounted to L. 917 ; making in all L.2152, 10s. Id. ; so that there was here a surplus of L.27, 14s. 2d. beyond the whole expenditure, and, whatever was produced from the other churches, there was a clear gain to the public from these two churches alone, which of themselves produced more than the whole expenditure on all the town's churches." In another respect, too, a mistake of no small moment has been fallen into, viz. in stating the expense incurred in the erection, or by contributing to the erection, of several of the parish churches, as a debt against them in the town's accounts.* The common good being destined fof the advancement of the welfare of the com- munity, ought to be held as much liable for the expense of erect- ing churches for the maintenance of that form of worship which is by law established in the country, as for the cost of other public buildings, whose purpose it is to benefit the community in a secular point of view, such as court-houses, jails, colleges, &c. Each of these in its own department tends to advance the welfare of the community, and in doing so, they amply repay the sums laid out on their erection. The churches of the Establishment are assured- ly not less conducive to the good of the citizens than these build- ings, but, on the contrary, much more so, in as much as they are erected and maintained for the promotion of that righteousness which exalteth a nation ; it must therefore be an erroneous and improper view of the matter, to regard the expense of these erec- tions as a debt due to the community, while that of erecting the other buildings named is looked on as a useful and necessary out- lay of the public money ."f * <' The debt due by the kirk charge, amounted at 15th October last, (exclusive of the expense of building the East Church,) to L. 18,580, I2s. 2d., which may also be considered as a debt affainst the treasury.** Town's Accounts for 1838. f Irt support of this view, see particularly " Provisioun fot v\"s.\R\v\»sctfss«v ^S. >5w«:. Ministers in Burrows.** Book of the UmvetsaV "KvtV o^^21 8930 201 & 2597 4616 18a3 2510 4313 2155 2551 4706 2651 3850 6501 25 45 8439 14J37 18.775 32.912 14,098 14,009 25,107 The subjoined table gives a statement of the population of Aberdeen at various periods. It must be noted, however, that in 1755, and subsequently, the numbers exhibit the population of the parishes of St Nicholas and Old Machar, or of New and Old Aberdeen conjointly, and that, excepting the last census, there is no means of separating them from each other. In the year 1396, Aberdeen contained 2.977 inhabitants. 1572, . 4,000 1581, . 5,a33 1592, 1615, 1633, 1643, 1708, 1755, 1801, 1811, 1821, ]8;)1, 7,301 7.805 8.000 8,750 5,.j56 15,730 27,008 35.370 44,796 58,019 Classification of the professions, trades, &c. exercised in Aberdeen, exclusive of operatives, the number of whom Ccinnot be easily as« certained. Accountants, Advocates, Agents, Apothecaries and druggists. Architects, Artists. Auctioneers, Bakers, Bankers, Basket- makers. Blacksmiths, Bleachers, 2 Boat-builders, 128 Bone-crushers, 26 Book-agents, 25 Dookhinders, 4 Booksellers and Stationers, 5 Boot and shoemakers, 7 Brass Founders, 56 Brewers, 7 Brick and tile-makers, 5 Brush makers. 43 Builders and masons, 3 4 3 4 4 26 140 5 17 4 3 S9 Cabinetmakers and upholsterers, S5 A15EUDKEN. 39 Carpet-weaver, Cart and wbeel-wrighta Canrera and gilders China, glan, and stoneware dealers, Clothes-dealers, • Coach-builders, Coal-brokers Comb makers, Confectioners, . , Coopers, Coppersmiths, Cork- cutters, . Corn-merchants, Cotton-manufacturers^ Cotton-spinners, Curriers, Cutlers, Dentists, Distillers, Dress-makers and milliners, Drysalters, Djen, Engineer, (civil) Engravers and copperplate printers, Fish-curers, Fishing-tackle makers, Flax-spinners, • Fleshers, Fruiterers, Furniture brokers. Gardeners, Grocers and spirit-dealers, Gunsmiths, • Hairdressers, . . Hardware-dealers, Hut-makers and hatters, Hosiers, Insurance and ship-brokers, Iron-founders, Iron* merchants, . Ironmongers, Japan ners. Jewellers, gold and silversmiths, Leather-cutters, Lieather-mercbants, Lime-merchants, Linen and woollen-drapers, Linen manufacturers. Livery stable-keepers. Machine makers, Maltsters, • Meal dealers, Merchants and ship-owners, Messengers, Millers, . , Millwrights, Musical instrument makers, ] 12 3 19 11 3 7 3 22 27 5 2 10 J7 3 6 4 4 6 40 3 15 1 3 8 5 3 103 2 9 33 208 4 32 7 8 9 1.5 5 2 15 3 7 10 4 2 36 8 7 8 1 15 28 6 8 5 8 Nail.makers, . . 8 Nursery and seedsmen, ' . 8 Opticians, ... 3 Painters and glaziers, . 24 Paper- makers, . . 2 Pawnbrokers, . . .6 Physicians, ... 27 Plane-makers, . . .2 Plasterers, . . 13 Plumbers, . .2 Porter and ale-dealers, 3 Poulterers, . . .3 Printers, ... 8 Provision merchants, . . 6 Quill-raercbants, . . 2 Reed-makers, . . .2 Rope and twine-makers, . 1 3 Saddlers, . . .8 Sail-cloth manufacturer, . 1 Sail-makers, . . .5 SherifTs officers, . . 10 Ship -builders, . . .4 Ship-chandlers, . . 5 Shuttle-makers, . 2 Silk mercers, . . 8 Skinners, . . . 4 Slaters, ... 14 Snuff-box makers, . . 2 Spirit dealers, . . 41 Stay -makers, . . .3 Stocking manufacturers, 1 1 Stone-cutters, . . . 6 Stone merchants, . . 6 Straw-hat manufacturers, . 10 Surgeons, . . 47 Surveyors, . . .6 Tailors, . . 103 Tallow chandlers, . . 8 Tanners, ... 5 Tape manufacturer, . . 1 Tea-dealers, (wholesale) . 7 Teachers, , . . 100 Thread manufacturers, . . 3 Timber merchants, . 15 Tin-plate workers, . .15 Tobacco and snuff manufacturers, 6 Tobacco pipe makers, . . 2 Turners, . . 12 Umbrella makers, . . 5 Veterinary surgeons, . 2 Vintners, . . .193 Watch and clock-makcrs, . 23 Wine and spirit-merchants, . 1 5 Woollen spinners, . . 13 Woollen drapers, . .15 Wrights and carpenters, . 38 Educational State. — In 1607, a school for instruction in writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping was instituted by the magistrates, the master of which had a small salary allowed to him in addv<\<^v^ to the fees of the scholars, and this saVvt'^ W?» \:.wv\x«N\'Ji\ ^'^'^^ i\\\^^ 40 ABEllDEENSHIRi:. with little addition. In 1672, a school for English grammar was established on a similar footing, and both of these schools have al- ways maintained a high character. Besides these, a school pretty much on the parochial plan has been for a considerable time supported by the magistrates and kirk-session jointly at Futtie. The school-house there having be- gun to decay, was rebuilt and enlarged a few years ago, and the plan of education, which is purely elementary, was a good deal ex- tended. The incorporated trades have a school for the ordinary branches of education, and there are free schools founded and endowed by various benevolent individuals, viz. Bishop Gcrrard's, Mr James Thain's, and Mr George Davidson's. In 1815, a society was formed in Aberdeen for the erection and maintenance of schools on the system of Joseph Lancaster, and they supported for a good many years a school for boys, at which the average attendance was about 450. About eight or ten years ago they were enabled, by the bequest of L. 1000 from the late Mr Hogg of Shannaburn, to erect a school for a similar number of girls ; but other schools having been about the same time erect- ed in various parts of the town, the attendance of girls scarcely exceeded 200; and Mr Robertson, the highly talented teacher of the boys* school, having been induced to accept the office of teacher of Dr Bell's school, the attendance of boys in the Education So- ciety's school fell off, in consequence of which the society has deemed it advisable to give up one of their schools, and to divide the other into two apartments, capable of receiving about 200 each. A school for girls, capable of receiving about 100, and which is generally well attended, is supported by the Seamen's Friend So- ciety. They formerly had a school for boys also, but within these few years it has been converted into a parochial school for Union Parish, the society retaining the right of recommending boys, the children of seamen, for instruction in it. Dr Bell of Madras left L. 10,000, 3 per cent, consols, to the Magistrates and Council of Aberdeen, two-thirds of which were to be appropriated for schools in Aberdeen, and the other third for a similar purpose in Old Aberdeen. Accordingly, two schools were erected in Aberdeen, the one for about 400 boys, and the other for about 300 girls. Dr Anderson of Jamaica also bequeathed certain funds to trus^ ABERDEEN. 41 tees, for the support of a school in Aberdeen, as did also Mr Do- naldson of Orchardtown. There are besides these partly endowed schools, a considerable number of private schools of different kinds, and four or five board- ing-schools, where young ladies are received and instructed in the various branches of useful and ornamental education. About nine or ten years ago, the Rev. A. L. Gordon published an address to the inhabitants, on the necessity of establishing schools, especially for the 'poorer classes, on the sessional sys- tem, in the various parishes into which Aberdeen had then recent- ly been divided, and on the funds applicable to their support. The subject was brought under the consideration of the Presbytery, who, *' impressed with a sense of the importance of the suggestion, re- commended to the ministers of Aberdeen, to consider and devise such means as may seem best for accomplishing the object, and to report/' A memorial was soon after presented by the Presbytery to the Magistrates and Council, engaging to erect the necessary buildings, if, in order that the fees might be made sufficiently low to meet the circumstances of the poor, the city authorities would grant a small salary to the parochial teachers out of the common good. A similar memorial was soon after presented to them by the synod, but both were unsuccessful. * Notwithstanding this, the church courts encouraged the ministers to persevere, and the consequence has been, that, by private subscriptions, aided by grants of assistance from Government, (besides two parochial schools in the adjoining parishes of Woodside and Bon Accord,) two schools have been erected in John Knox's Parish, two under one roof in Trinity Parish, one is now building in the North Pa- rish, and funds have been raised for the erection of one in the East Parish (where, as well as in Grayfriars and Union Parishes, tempo- rary schools have been for some time in operation,) and in the South Parish, and measures are in contemplation for obtaining pa- rochial schools in the remaining parishes of Aberdeen. That schools, connected as these are with the parish^church, will be placed in circumstances most likely to promote their usefulness in the parishes, wilt be readily admitted by all who are not blinded to the advantages of maintaining an intimate connection bet^^ceD the religious instruction of the people, and the education of their • The lattf Provost Blaikie expressed himself in terms highly favourable \ft >55\v^^^- jcct a short time before his lamented death put an cud lo v\\v& ?ccv^\\vb» ^"Cwtx ^i*^ftssccsss.'5' of benevolence and usefulness. 42 AUEUDEENSHIKE. children. Besides the security thus obtained for the soundness of the instructions given in the schools, the sympathies of the people will be enlisted in their favour; and the teachers will be sustained by knowing that the ministers and elders take a lively interest in their success. The following is an abstract of returns which were made in 1833) to queries issued by the Magistrates and Council, with a view to ascertain the state of education in Aberdeen. In these re- turns, all sorts of schools were embraced. Various changes have, to be sure, taken place since that time, and allowance must be made for those pupils who attend, at the same time, two or more schools for different branches, as well as for those who, living in Old Aberdeen, attend schools in town, and vice versa ; but taking it as a whole, it may be looked on as giving a pretty accurate view of the present state of education in Aberdeen : Schools, 37 ; teachers, 49; pupils, 3664; males, 2546; females, 1118. At the greater part of these schools, the fees vary from 2s. to 5s. a quarter. Some, as already noticed, are free; and at others scholars are occasionally taught without fees. The following abstract exhibits a view of the branches taught : English, 2792 ; writing, 1887; arithmetic, 1567; Latin, 208; Greek, 60; mathematics, 74; geography, 281; navigation, 15; music, 333 ; elocution, 67 ; sewing, 429. There is no return of French and the other modern languages, because they are almost exclusivelyftaught^by private teachers. Besides these, there are also week-day evening schools esta- blished in a good many of the parishes, for the benefit of those who cannot attend school during the day, and of these the follow- ing return was made in 1833: Schools, 9; teachers, 16; scholars, 699'; males, 331 ; females, 368. An association was formed about two years ago, under the title of" The Association of Teachers of Sabbath Schools, under the Superintendence of the Kirk- Sessions of St Nicholas and Old Machar," which promises to be very useful, and which a few months ago had in the parish of St Nicholas 19 schools with 149 teachers, and upwards of 1800 scholars ; besides which, the Aber- deen Gratis Sabbath School Society, which has lieen in operation for about forty years, has in the parish and neighbourhood, i^O schools, attended by about 1000 scholars. The importance of normal schools, where those who have in view to become schoolmasters may be trained in the knowledge 4 AEEllDEEN. 43 and practice of the duties of their office, has been for some time strongly and generally felt, and in 1835, the General Assembly's Education Committee, in their report, dwelt at considerable length on the beneBt to be expected from such institutions. The As- sembly approved of the views taken by their Committee, and ac- quiesced in their recommendation of Aberdeen as a suitable place for the establishment of a normal school. In April 183H, a pub- lic meeting was held in Aberdeen, at which it was resolved to erect a school of this description in the town, and a committee was ap- pointed for the purpose of carrying this resolution into effect. Se- veral of the neighbouring counties, as well as the Presbytery of Aberdeen, nominated committees to co-operate with this one, and the Trustees of Dick's bequest have expressed their strong appro- bation of such an institution, and their desire to assist the other bodies in securing for the North of Scotland the benefits that might be expected to arise from it. The expectation, that the Committee of the House of Commons on Education in Scotland will take up the subject of normal schools, and the hope that Government may make some acceptable proposal for their esta* blishment, with other causes of a less general nature, have hither- to retarded the operations of these committees ; but there is every reason to expect, that in no long time a normal school will be established in Aberdeen. Grammar School. — The history of this school can be traced back as far at least as 1418, when Andrew de Syves, Vicar of Ber- vie, who had been master of the school for some years, died. Little is known about it, however, at this early period. In 1479, the salary attached to the office was L. 5 Scots. About fifty years after, it was raised to 10 marks, and certain perquisites were also allowed to the master. Twenty years later, the salary was fixed at 50 marks, and 2s. quarterly assigned as the fee of each scholar. In 1670, the rector, or head master, had 600 marks, and there were under him three ushers, each of whom had 200 marks and the fees arising from his own class, the rate of payment being at this time Ids. 4d. quarterly. The number and status of the teachers continue the same at present; the fees are 10s. 6d. quarterly, and the salaries are L. 90 to the rector, and L. 45 to each of the ushers. The funds from which these salaries are provided, arise from benefactions bequeathed at various times for the ^w\^^^'s.^ — ^^ most important of which was by Dt Y^Vt\<:^^\^^vs^^^^v^^'»^V^ ^^ 44 AUEUDEENSHIRE. Marischal College, who, in 1634, mortified the lands of Ferryhill, in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen, for the maintenance of four masters in the grammar school. These lands were feued in 1752, at L. 1 64 Sterling, half of which, in terms of Dr Dun's deed, is allot- ted to the rector^ and the other half equally divided among the other three masters. It is provided by Dr Dun's deed, that any scholar bringing a sufficient testimonial of poverty shall be taught Latin gratis; that all of the name of Dun, and the sons of tenants on the lauds of Ferryhill, ^^ and haill remanent lands to be con- quiest for the use foresaid," shall likewise be taught gratis ; and in case of a vacancy in the office of any of the masters, a person of the surname of Dun, or a tenant or tenant's son on the lands of Ferryhill, if found qualified, shall be appointed " without anie contestatione." The course of teaching followed in this school occupies five years ; and commencing with the elements of Latin^ the pupils are led on through a series of classical reading and themes, and of late years, the elements of the Greek language have been taught to the more advanced pupils. The regular business of the school occupies the hours from 9 to 12 and from 3 to 5 four times a-week, with three hours on Wednesday and two hours on Saturday, besides which arithmetic is taught at an extra hour. Until lately it was the practice for all the pupils to assemble every morning for prayer in the public school, but this has been discontinued, and instead each master opens his class with prayer in his own classrroom. It is to be regretted that, with the excep- tion of this, and the prescribing in the two higher classes, of what are called sacred lessons on Saturdays (if they deserve the name of exceptions), neither master nor pupil has leisure to spare, from the communication and reception of classical knowledge, to attend to the much more important concern of religious and moral cul- ture.* In this respect, however, the Grammar School of Aber- deen is probably not more to be complained of than most other public classical schools, especially those on old foundations. The number of pupils attending this school is generally about 200 ; and there is an examination annually held in presence of the * In one of a set ofTuIes laid down by the Town Council in 1700, for the regula- tion of the Grammar School, the following clause occurs ; <* once a week all Uie rules and questions of the Shorter Catechism are to be repeated publiclie." But if this rule was ever attended to, it is long now, since it fell into disuse. :\ ABERDEEN. 45 magistrates, the ministers of the Established Church, and the pro- fessors of Marischal College, when prizes, provided by the magis- trates, are awarded to the most deserving ; and the appearance which is generally made at this examination is such as to warrant the assertion, that, in as far as regards the communication of a knowledge of Latin, the Grammar School of Aberdeen, under the rectorship of Dr Melvin, is inferior to none in Scotland. Gordon* 8 and SimpsorCs Hospital. — Robert Gordon, a descendant of the family of Straloch, having acquired a competent fortune as a merchant in Dantzig, returned to his native place about the be- ginning of the last century. Subsequently to this, his habits gra- dually became extremely penurious, and he almost denied himself the necessaries of life. Previous to his death, which occurred in 1732, he executed a deed, by which he conveyed all his property to the Provost, Bailies, Town Council, and the four Ministers of Aberdeen* in trust for the erection and maintenance of an hos- pital for the reception and education of boys, who are sons or grand- sons of decayed burgess of guild ; and, 1*^, relations of the founder of the surname of Gordon ; 2c?, relations of the founder of the sur- name of Menzies ; 3rf, relations of the founder of any other sur- name ; 4/A, not related to him, but of the surname of Gordon ; bthj not related to him, but of the surname of Menzies ; 6^/i, not related to him, and of any other surname ; Ithy sons and grand- sons of decayed tradesmen members of any of the incorporated trades ; 8^, sons and grandsons of dyers and barbers ; and, 9 50 ABERDEENSHIRE. on the United Fund. At first, this plan was attended with success, the sum obtained being nearly L. 1000 ; but after a few years, the trouble of collection and other circumstances occasioned a gradual falling off, so that in 1835 scarcely L.400 was obtained ; in con- sequence of which, it became unavoidable to attempt some other means of raising the requisite sum. Accordingly, in 1836, at a head court of the inhabitants, a resolution was entered into to raise the sum of L. 1700 for that year by an equitable self-imposed as- sessment on heritors and tenants, on a principle similar to that which had been for some years acted on in Dundee and other places. It was, however, found impossible to collect this assess- ment without resorting to law, and in 1838 the magistrates were obliged to interpose their authority and enforce payment. It is un- necessary to dwell here on the evils consequent on a legal assess- ment, which at once puts an end to the Scottish system of paro- chial relief, and gives the pauper, however undeserving, a legal right, not to ^^ a help," but to a maintenance ; but one effect of it may be stated as being peculiar to this parish, viz. the alienation of a fund which was destined by the late Mr John Burnett " for the support and relief of such persons living within the town and pa- rish of Aberdeen only, who are unable to sustain themselves, and who are bedrid, or are afflicted with bodily diseases that are sup- posed to be incurable," or those afflicted with lingering diseases, and others, particularly the aged. Mr Burnett, anticipating the possibility of a legal assessment being imposed for the relief of the parochial poor, annexed to his bequest the following provision : " I hereby, therefore, in case of the foresaid assessment taking place either at my death or at any time thereafter, discharge and debar the minister and kirk -session of Aberdeen and my other trustees above-named, from applying the foresaid for the purposes above- mentioned, during all the years that such assessment for the poor shall continue. And in case such assessment shall continue to take place within the town of Aberdeen at any time after my death, for the space of seven years successively, I in that event appoint the minister and kirk.session of Aberdeen to denude themselves of the foresaid haill lands of Kinnadie with all eventual interests com- petent to them therein under this deed."* The proceeds of this be- quest amounted to about L. 280 annually, which, until 1838, were * It is right to state, however, that the alienation of this fund is in one respect less to be regretted than otherwise it might be, because it will not be altogether diverted from the poor, inasmuch as it is directed to be transferred to the managers of the In- Jrmarjr, to be by them applied as noticed in the account of that institution. ^ ABERDEEN. 51 carefully distributed by the trustees of Mr Burnett, in accordance with his directions, among the aged and infirm, ^' with a preference to such persons who are known to have lived soberly and religious- ly;" but these, the most necessitous as well as the most deserving class of the parochial poor, are now merged in the general mass, and receive a sii^ply simply and barely according to their necessi- ties, without reference to their previous character ; and the amount of this relief given to them forms an addition to the sum to be as- sessed on the inhabitants. The relief of the parochial poor is placed under the direc- tion of a committee consisting of delegates from the general kirk- session, the magistrates, the Dissenting congregations which con- tribute to the United Fund, and individual donors, together with a proportionate number of gentlemen appointed on behalf of the inhabitants at the time of commencing th6 self-imposed assessment. This committee meets in the beginning of every month to receive and determine on applications for relief, which it is to be regretted is regulated much more by the means at their command, than by the necessities of the applicants, being, on an ave- rage, certainly not more than at the rate of 4s. a-month. Table for seven years of the number of poor and amount of re- lief given : No. of No. of de- orphans, serted families. Expenditure. Income. 52 11 L.2902 L.2777 62 15 3171 2877 42 28 2928 2436 43 35 2901 2132 33 41 2990 2634 53 49 3099 2111 60 63 3569 3868 In pursuance of the agreement entered into in the year 1768, respecting the relief of the parochial poor, the adult inmates of the work-house or Poor's Hospital, and the girls maintained there, were pensioned out of the United Fund, and the hospital was thenceforth devoted to the maintenance and education of boys only. The number of these was at first 25, and until the year 1795, when it was increased to 40, no addition was made to this number. The cause ofthis may be supposed to have been, that the United Fund necessarily occupied prominently the atten- tion of the managers, in consequence of the continual recurrence of meetings regarding it, and the number and variety of the trans- actions connected with it; by which means, in the course of time, a system of keeping the accounts of both institutions came to be No. of paupers, 1832, 1245 1833, 1309 1834, 1332 .1835, 1262 1836, 1282 1837, 1336 1838, 1277 Boyi Hospital,' 52 ABERDEENSHIRE. introduced, by which the hospital was represented as subsidiary to the United Fund, and dependent on it for a considerable yearly sum, towards defraying its expenses. This, however, was not the case, and on a careful scrutiny and separation of the various sources of revenue belonging to both, which was made in the year 1828, it was found that the income accruing to the Poor's Hospital was abundantly sufficient for all its wants, and since that time the accounts have been kept entirely distinct. The house which had been occupied since 1740 by the hospital being found to stand in the way of projected improvements in the jail and court-house, was purchased from the managers, and the hospital was removed in the year 1818, to a house in the Gallowgate, which they bought* Subsequently to this, the managers wished to increase the number of the inmates, but the accommodations being inadequate, they, in the year 1829, purchased a house of larger size in the Upper Kirkgate, and since then, fifty boys have been maintained and edu« cated in the " Boys' Hospital ;'^ and as there is still a certain sur- plus of funds, proposals have been at various times entertained for still further extehding the institution. The age of admission into this hospital is from eight to ten, and the boys received into it are taught the ordinary branches of education, — reading, writing, arithmetic, church music, and the principles of religion. The sources from which the income of the hospital is derived, are va- rious mortifications or bequests secured on land, together with a collection annually in the churches of the Establishment, and se- veral of the Dissenting chapels. The following table shows the income and expenditure for seven years ; the number of inmates being fifty-five, viz. matron, schoolmaster, treasurer, and two ser- vants, in addition to fifty boys : Income. Expenditure. ]8d2, L.814 L.593 1833, 708 611 1834, 713 618 1835, 840 589 1836, 760 594 1837, 658 630 1838, 893 606 GiM Hospital. — The want of an institution for the mainte- nance and education of girls, similar to the Boys' Hospital, had been for some time felt and regretted, and, in 1828, a subscription was entered into for the purpose of obtaining a fund for the establish- ment of such an hospital. This, in the course of a few months, amounted to K 1500, and the Girls' Hospital was opened for the reception of twenty girls, the children or orphans of parocbidi Income. 18d2, L.572 I8SS, 721 1834, 450 1835, 443 1836, 590 1837, 482 1838, 625 ABERDEEN. o3 paupers, in 1829. The encouragement given to it by the public was such, that next year the managers were enabled to increase the number to thirty, and in 1835 ten more were received. The ages within which these girls are admitted, are from six to nine ; the branches of education taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, church music, sewing, knitting, and house-work, with instructions in the principles of religion, and they continue inmates of the hos- pital generally till they reach the age of fourteen. The income of the hospital is derived from an annual collection in the churches, the interest of the subscribed capital, and a fourth part of the proceeds of Mr Simpson of Colliehiirs mortification to the workhouse of Aberdeen ; and the following table exhibits its amount, with that of the expenditure, for the last sev^n years : Expenditure. L.dl3 337 302 417 328 817 361 House of Refiige. — The establishment of a House of Refuge in Aberdeen had been several times agitated, but it was not until 1836 that sufficient funds for the purpose could be obtained. The munificent donation of L. 1000, then given by George Watt, Esq. surgeon, for the purpose of commencing this useful charity, was speedily followed up by a general subscription in the town and neighbourhood, and the sum of L. 3000 was raised in the course of a few months, — annual contributions to the extent of L. 136 being at the same time subscribed for, and the institution was commen- ced, a body of directors chosen, and regulations laid down at a public meeting of the inhabitants. A suitable house having been hired and furnished, the House of Refuge was opened on the 5th September 1836. The mode of con- ducting the details of its management has been principally borrow- ed from the House of Refuge in Edinburgh ; and though many and great difficulties occurred in the outset, as indeed was to be anticipated, there is abundant reason to know that not a little good has been done by the institution, (especially in regard to great numbers of neglected children, who are furnished with that educa- tion which their parents either could not or would not give them), and that at an extremely moderate expense. Under the judicious care of the present superintendant, Mr Ed- ward Reid, (who had for some time officiated as chaplain and 34 ABERDBENSHIRE. schoolmaster before his appointment to be superintendant, and who still unites the duties of these two offices to those of the superin- tendant), the system of domestic management of the establish- ment has now been carried on for nearly two years, and the extent as well as the nature of the benefits derivable from the institution become more justly appreciated and more sensibly felt* In the first outset of any institution, a considerable expense must necessarily be incurred for furniture, &c. ; while, on the other hand, the income of an infant institution is generally short consi- derably of what it afterwards reaches, when the public have become aware of its claims on their support. Hence, the expenditure of the House of Refuge during the first seven months was L. 725, while its income for the same period was only L. 191. Since that time, two complete years have now elapsed, and the following is a view of the financial concerns of the institution for these two years : Inamtf. 1837. 1838. Subscriptions and donations, L.dl4 12 L. 416 13 1 nterest of inoney« 84 ' 89 12 Board for inmates. 77 10 147 7 Received for work done. 30 3 62 12 L. 506 5 "o L.716 6 "o ExjHindHnre, 1837. 1838. Provisions, L.299 5 L.307 4 Repairs, 35 14 8 2 Furnishings and clothes. 103 6 42 5 Materials and implements. 4 14 Salaries and wages. 104 5 133 11 Fire and light, 40 8 41 4 Rent, 45 45 Printing and incidents, (med.). 39 3 59 8 L.671 15 L. 636 14 The following table exhibits the number of persons received into the house, with the results of the cases and the periods of re- sidence. Admitted to 1st April 1837 Ti;r 1^ V above 14, 35 ^^^ {under 14, 54 ^ 1 ( above 14, 36 Females, J ^^j^^j^; ^ 161 Dismissed to 1st April 1837 Provided with work, 17 Sent to their parishes, 5 L«ft voluntarily, . 18 Taken out bv relatives, 19 Sent to the Infirmary, 14 Died in the house, 8 Deserted, . 10 Dismissed as improper, 8 — 99 to 1st April 1838. to 1st April 1839. 51 . . 95 112 . 120 86 . 113 88 . 93 837 421 to 1st April 1838. to 1st April 1839. 26 . 29 35 . 21 28 106 90 . 57 29 33 8 19 14 18 24 36 254 321 ABERDEEN. Periods of residence. More than 12 mouths, 19 More than 5 months, 11 5 4 10 5 3 9 8 2 8 : 8 1 7 11 Under 1 6 14 55 18 22 47 56 99 367 674 Remaining in the Houae 1st April 1839, m;r i_ i above 14, . 15 I *? i^ I above 14, . 22 ^^' ] under l^ . 84 ^«"^-« \ under u) . 29 100 House of Industry and Magdalene Asylum, — Within these few months, the same benevolent individual whose liberality was the means of establishing the House of Refuge, has conveyed to trus- tees, named by himself, along with the directors of the House of Refuge, the property of Oldmill, situated about four miles west- ward from the town, which yields about L.164 of yearly rent, for the purpose of erecting and maintaining a House of Industry and a Magdalene Asylum. The necessary arrangements are not as yet completed, but there is no doubt that every possible diligence will be used, and that these beneficial institutions will bl opened in the course of a very short time. Deaf and Dumb Institution, — This institution was opened in 1819, a fund having been raised for the purpose by contributions gradually collected for a year or two previously, and the direction and instruction of its inmates were entrusted to Mr Robert Taylor, who had been sent to Paris to receive the necessary in- structions under the celebrated Abb6 Sicard. In consequence of the insufficiency of the funds to provide for the entire maintenance of the institution, it was found necessary to adopt a rule that one- half of the board of the pupils only should be defrayed by the in- stitution, the other half being required to be advanced from some other source; and although the rate of board charged be on- ly L. 16 per annum, this rule has in several instances prevented the admission of children whose parents were unable to raise the required sum ; though, on the other hand, those who have used exertions, and made application either to public funds or to bene- volent individuals, have seldom been disappointed. Another class of boarders is also received under the charge of the teacher, who do not draw on the funds of the institution for any part of their maintenance, and the teacher, whose salary is only L. 60, is thus enabled, with advantage to the institution, from the increased number of pupils, to earn a comfortable livelihood. 56 ABEUDEENSHIUE. The branches of instruction taught in the institution are, the knowledge of objects, English reading and writing, arithmetic, geography, and the principles of religion. In 1834, Mr Taylor, having resigned the direction of the insti- tution, Mr Matthew R. Burns, himself deprived of hearing at a very early age, was appointed in his room ; and his sister. Miss Burns, was appointed housekeeper. At the time, some of the di- rectors felt a doubt whether Mr Burns's deafness might not prove an obstacle to his usefulness, while others were rather of opinioa that, by placing him more closely on a par with his pupils, it would be an advantage. Respecting the result, it is unnecessary to say more than that, by his ability, zeal, and unwearied diligence, the pupils have been benefited in no common degree, and the character of the institution (which depends entirely on that of the teacher,) has been raised to the level of those excellent and more extensive institutions of the same kind in Edinburgh, London, and Dublin. The period of a pu- pil's continuance in the institution is usually about five years. The number at present receiving aid from the funds is 12, viz. 9 boys and 3 girls. The expenditure is provided for by annual subscriptionSf occasional donations, the sale of work done in the institution, and by the proceeds of an annual public examination of the pupils ; and the sums thus obtained have been sufficient, with great economy^ to provide for the maintenance of a limited number of pupils ; but the institution is very far from meeting the necessities of the north of Scotland, as was contemplated at its original establishment. The following table shows the income and expenditure, with the number of pupils whose board was partly paid out of the funds, for the last seven years. 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. Income^ L. 121 Expenditure, 99 Pupils, . 6 Burnett's Fund. — In the year 1783, Mr John Burnett of Dens died, bequeathing the bulk of his property to the following cha- ritable purposes : Two-thirds of the rents of Kinnadie for the sup- port of aged and diseased poor persons in Aberdeen, with a spe* cial reference to their previous respectability and moral character. This distribution (the amount of which w;sis about L. 250 annually) was directed to be continued as long as there should be no legal assessment for the support of the poor of Aberdeen ; but in the event of an assessment being levied, then, during each year of 126 146 201 225 172 273 142 149 223 148 185 250 5 5 9 10 11 12 ABEUDEEN. 57 the continuance of- such assessment, the money was directed to be applied by the managers of the Infirmary, one-half to defray the expense of a physician to attend the sick poor of Aberdeen, who are not proper objects to be receii:ed into the infirmary, and the other half to the maintenance of pauper lunatics belonging to the town and county of Aberdeen ; and this alteration in the des- tination is declared perpetual if the assessment shall continue to be levied for seven successive years. The other third part of the rents was directed to be accumulated, for the purpose of yielding at the end of every forty years, (reckoned from 1774,) two prizes, of L. 1200 and L. 400 respectively, to be given to the authors of the two best essays on the following subject, " that there is a Being all-powerful, wise, and good, by whom every thing exists*; and particularly to obviate difiiculties regarding the wisdom and good- ness of the Deity ; and this, in the first place, from considerations independent of written Revelation ; and in the second pIace,^from the Revelation of the Lord Jesus Christ ; and from the whole to point out the inferences most necessary and useful to mankind.'' The decision of these prizes he directed to be by a cominittee of three individuals, chosen by his trustees and the Professors of King's and Marischal Colleges. The term of forty years prescribed by Mr Burnett, expiring in 1814, the first adjudication of the prizes took place in that year : the three judges appointed by the trustees and the profes- sors were, the Rev, Dr Gilbert Gerrard, Professor of Divinity in King's College; Dr Robert Hamilton, Professor of Natural Philosophy in Marischal College ; and the Rev. Dr George Glennie, Professor of Moral Philosophy in Marischal College ; and the first prize was by them adjudged to the Rev. Dr William Lawrence Brown, Principal of Marischal College ; and the se- cond to the Rev. John Bird Sumner, the present Bishop of Chester. Any surplus of this fund that may remain after the payment of these prizes is directed to be laid out in the purchase of lands, the rents of which are to be added to the other two-thirds. From the time of Mr Burnett's death until last year, the former destinatfon of these two- thirds has been acted on by his trustees, and about 160 of the most deserving of the poor in Aberdeen have been supplied by the distribution of these funds in small monthly payments. An assessment having, however, been found altogether unavoidable, this source of supply to the poor has been cut ofi*, and the pensioners on this fund have been transferred to the parochial 56 ABERDEENSHIRE. funds. The managers of the Infiraiary, seeing that it would be ut- terly impossible for one physician to attend the sick poor who are not fit for reception into the house, now that the town is increased to upwards of four times the population which it contained at the time of Mr Burnett's death, and that the General Dispensary is well adapted to carry out the spirit of Mr Burnett's intentions, but is very insufficiently supported by the subscriptions raised for its benefit, — have resolved that the half of the fund placed under their direction for this purpose, shall be given for the present to that institution ; its application to be under the direction of a cona* mitee, consisting of an equal number of Managers of the Infirmary, and Directors of the Dispensary ; — the other half they retain in their own hands, to be applied for the maintenance of pauper luna- tics from the town and county of Aberdeen in the Lunatic Asylum. Pauper Lunatic Fund. — In 1820, a fund was instituted for the purpose of defraying the expense attending the maintenance, in the Lunatic Asylum, of lunatic paupers belonging to the parish of St Nicholas. ^rhe sources from which its support is derived are, collections (formerly annual, but which have been discontinued for the last two years,) in the churches of the Establishment and in several Dissenting churches, together with occasional donations and le- gacies, and its management is entrusted to a committee, consisting of the Established and other clergymen, with a few other gentle- men annually elected. The annexed table exhibits the income and expenditure of this fund, and the number of patients whose board hiis been de- frayed out of it for the last seven years : — Income. Kxpcnditure. Patients. 1832, . L.450 L.371 . 23 1833, 368 . 372 . 21 1834, . 390 . 8;37 . 20 1835, 366 . 339 . 19 ia%, . 873 . 278 . 16 1837, 380 . 330 . 14 ia38. . ,333 . 380 . 17 Murtle's Fund, — The late John Gordon, Esq. of Murtle, by deeds dated in 1815, bequeathed a certain part of his property to trustees, for distribution to various charitable objects, some of which were specified, and others left to the discretion of the trus- tees. Among those specified by Mr Gordon, was one respecting which he expresses himself as follows : — " With regard to the sums bequeathed for the purpose of establishing lectures on prac- tical religion at one or both universities, it may be proper to add ABERDEEN. 59 a few words explanatory of my design and intention in that be* quest. The effect of early impressions on the youthful mind is ge-> nerally admitted. These lectures, therefore, if properly conduct- ed and pressed home, may, by the blessing of God, be the means of laying the foundation of an early piety in the youthful mind, and thus give God the first possession of the heart. Whilst al- most every branch of useful knowledge is ably taught in our Bri- tish universities, it is matter of regret that so little provision is made for the instruction of our youth in the more important duties of religion. In apportioning the sums of money for charitable purposes under this deed, I would, therefore, beg leave to recommend to my trustees, to give a decided preference to all charitable institutions having for their object the education of the rising generation, more especially where due attention is paid to their instruction in the prin- ciples of religion. In doing this, they will best fulfil my intentions." The trustees accordingly, in the exercise of the powers devolv- ed on them, have annually paid L. 100 to lecturers on Practical Religion in King's and Marischal Colleges; L. 150 to aged fe- male servants; L. 150 to Sunday schools; and set aside L. 300 as a fund for the establishment of an hospital for orphan and desti- tute girls; and the residue they have apportioned in annual or oc- casional donations to various institutions, such as the Deaf and Dumb Institution, the Sick Man's Friend Society, the Female Society, the CJoal Fund, the Clothing Society, the Dispensaries, &c. Camegie*8 Fund, — In 1835, Mr John Carnegie bequeathed a sum of between L. 7000 and L. 8000 to certain trustees, for the purpose of establishing an hospital for female orphans, which will probably be conjoined with that portion of Mr Gordon's bequest which his trustees have set aside for a similar purpose. Orphan Girls* Hospital, — In the year 1836, Mrs Elmslie, a widow lady, residing in London, devoted a sum of L. 26,000 to the erection and endowment of an hospital at Aberdeen for orphan and destitute girls. This sum she believed that her husband, had he lived to execute his intention, would have applied for this pur- pose. Accordingly, a site having been selected on the west side of the town, the building was commenced, and is now very far ad- vanced towards completion^ SJiaw*8 Fund. — In 1807, Alexander Shaw executed a deed, vesting his property in trustees, with directions that it should be allowed to accumulate till it should be sufficient to build and en- dow an hospital for 5 boys and 5 girls, either orphans, or desert- 60 abeudeenshirh:. ed and destitute ; these children to be admitted between the ages of two and four; to take the name of either Shaw or Davidson; and to be taught English, and a little French, writing, and arith- metic, (the girls also to be taught needle-work.) The boys to continue in the hospital till they are twelve years of age, and to be allowed L. 6 of apprentice fee, and to receive L. 10 when their apprenticeship is out ; the girls to continue in the hospital to the age of thirteen, and to get L. 10 if afterwards they remain five years in the families with whom they are placed as servants. A clause is also inserted in the deed, directing that any boy of supe- rior genius is to be retained in the hospital till he is twenty-one years of age, to study the French language diligently, and to be permitted to learn any profession for which he may be fitted and most inclined. As yet the trustees have not been in a condition to carry this deed into fiill effect, but they have within the last few months rented a house in the Gallowgate for the purpose of carry- ing into execution the benevolent designs of the founder. Miss Cruickshank^s Fund. — Miss Elizabeth Cruickshank, who died in 1818, bequeathed the bulk of her property to trustees, for the purpose of accumulation until it should be sufficient to found and support an asylum for the blind in Aberdeen. These trus- tees were three in number, but two of them having died, the sur- vivor, by virtue of a power contained in the deed, assumed, in the year 1832, several gentlemen to act along with him in the dis- charge of the trust Various difficulties occurred in regard to the disposal of some parts of the property, and it was not until very lately that any fur- ther steps were taken towards carrying Miss Cruickshank's bene- volent intentions into effect, than taking a census of the number of blind persons in the city of Aberdeen and its neighbourhood, with their ages and circumstances. Within the last few weeks, how- ever, a plan of the intended building has been approved of, and its erection will be proceeded in forthwith. United Coal Fund. — Bequests had been at different times made by various individuals for the purpose of supplying the poor of Aberdeen with coals during the inclement weather in winter, and in 1801,'^by an agreement among the trustees appointed over four of these be- quests, viz, those of Mr Alexander Robertson, Mr Andrew Robert- son, Mr John Smith, and Mr John Cushnie, they were united into one fund for this benevolent purpose. The fund thus obtained amounted to L. 1000, and by various donations and bequests' since ABERDEEN. 61 added} it has now reached to nearly L. 2900 ; the interest of which, along with occasional donations, and sometinoes, in cases of necessity, a small portion of the principal, is annually expended in the purchase of coals in summer, which are distributed during winter, in por- tions of one-fourth of a boll or one«sixteenth of a ton to each fa- mily. The fund is placed under the management of twenty-one gentlemen chosen from the kirk-session, the magistrates, the ma- nagers of the Poor's Hospital, and the contributors or their trus- tees. The quantities of coals distributed for the last seven years have been as follows : — 1832, . 175 tons. 1833, . 1854 1834, . 1854 1835, . 1841 1836, . 174 1837, • 334 (a second distribution hafing been made.) 1838, . 175 Ladies* Working Society. — It is little more than a year since this society was instituted for the purpose of providing industrious fe- males with the means of support, by supplying them with needle- work, mostly of a plain and useful kind, and by exposing the fruits of their industry for sale at a moderate price. It may be regarded as a useful assistant to the Clothing Society, and as serving, in some degree, to lessen the demands on the funds of the Female Society. It is managed by a committee of ladies, and depends for its Ainds entirely on the contributions of members, and the sale of the"work done for the society by its objects. Clothing Society. — This society was commenced in 1817, for the purpose of supplying articles of clothing to the industrious poor. It is managed by a committee of ladies, who superintend the mak- ing of the clothes, and personally investigate the cases recom- mended before any supply is given. The funds arise entirely from the contributions of members, with occasional donations and legacies. From deficiency of funds, the society has been unable, in general, to make a distribution of clothes oftener than once in two years, when articles, to the value of about LfodOO, have been given to nearly 1000 individuals, each article being previously stamped with the name of the society. Within the last year, the plan of^the society has been modified in several particulars, the chief of which is, that the clothes dis- tributed shall not be considered as given, but as lent to the per- sons receiving them, — a measure by which the society will be bet- ter enabled to guard against the abuses to which they were for- G2 ABERDEENSHIRE. merly subjected by individuals pawning or selling the articles which had been furnished to them. Sick MarCs Friend Society. — This benevolent society was instituted in the year 1792, and its object is, the relief of the indigent sick, by affording them such aid in money from time to time as the funds will bear, and the circumstances of the objects seem to call for. The town is divided into thirty-two districts, which are allotted to visitors, whose duty it is personally to investigate the cases recommended for assistance, and to direct the amount of relief to be given, which is in payments of Is. each, monthly, fort- nightly, or weekly, according to the necessities of the case. The amount distributed annually has been, for some time, nearly L. 320, the whole of which arises from the annual contributions of members, donations, and occasional legacies. Female Society. — This society was commenced in 1805, for the relief of aged and indigent females. Its funds are derived from the subscriptions of its members, and occasional donations and be- quests. It is managed by a committee of ladies, who personally investigate the cases recommended before giving relief. The dis- tribution is in sums of Is. 6d., 2s. 6d., or ds. twice a quarter, and in this way about L. 250 are distributed annually. The number of regular pensioners on the society's books is at present about 230, besides a good many receiving occasional supply. Bible Societies, — In 1811, a society was instituted in Aberdeen, auxiliary to the British and Foreign Bible Society, and its operations were carried on with considerable zeal and success, and besides supplying considerable numbers of Bibles to the surrounding dis- tricts, contributions to a large amount were sent by it to the so- ciety in London. The disputes that arose in 1826 in consequence of the distribution of the Apocrypha by the London Society, and other practices that were by many felt to be wrong, led in 1827, to the formation of another Bible Society, whose surplus funds have generally been devoted to aid the operations of the Edinburgh Bible Society. Previous to this, a society had been instituted in Aberdeen for the purpose of supplying Bibles at prime cost to the sailors trad- ing at the port, which, after issuing in the course of nine years upwards of 2300 Bibles, was, in 1827, joined with the Auxiliary Naval and Military Bible Society, then recently instituted, the object of which is the same with that of the similar societies in London, Edinburgh, &c viz. to supply Bibles and Testaments at a reduced price, (generally about two-thirds of the prime cost,) to ABERDEEN. C3 soldiers, sailors, bargemen, fishers, and pensioners. The surphis funds of this society, (which^ however, can never be large, in con- sequence of the terms on which the supply is afforded,) are re- mitted to the Naval and Military Bible Society in London. In the following table a view is given of the income of each of these societies, and of the number of Bibles and Testaments an- nually distributed by them since the year 1832. Auxiliary Bible Society. Aberdeen Bible Society. Naval and Military Bible Society. Income. Bibles. Test. Income. Bibles. Test. Income. Bibles. Test. 1832, L. 183 194 67 L. 90 144 77 L.25 144 36 1833. 282 155 104 108 114 150 20 159 33 1834, 99 183 77 97 170 139 15 221 92 1835, 100 278 168 70 183 88 17 148 55 1836. 141 252' 135* 133 247 160 16 137 45 1837, 130 102 49 12 119 44 1838, 207 110 84 117 181 175 5 73 47 Missionary and other Religious Societies, — ITiere are many as- sociations of these descriptions in Aberdeen, some of which are supported exclusively by the members of the Established Church, others by various Dissenting bodies, and some indiscriminately by both. As, however, they are all without any permanent funds or vested property, it has been too often found that after being sup- ported with spirit for a time, they have been liable to languish, while new ones are instituted or old ones revived from time to time, as occasional impulses are given. Their existence and efficiency are thus rendered so precarious, that it becomes not easy to say how many of them are at any time in active operation. The following is, however, given as a tolerably correct list of the principal ones : Two Religious Tract Societies, — the one, instituted in 1797 and revived in 1811, has distributed about 1,500,000 tracts, partly gra- tuitously, and partly sold at low prices ; — the other lately instituted. Eight Missionary Societies, of which three are supported by members. of the Church of Scotland, and five by Dissenters of va- rious denominations. One Gratis Sabbath Evening School Society, established in 1797 — supported by Dissenters — has at present about twenty schools, attended by nearly 1000 pupils. One Seamens' Friend Society, instituted in 1823, has a chapel and a school for girls, (the male children being received into the * These tiro numbers are but average statements. The whole distribution for the year 1836 was 387 ; but as no report was published, it has not been found pos« sible to ascertain the exact number of Bibles and Testaments which went to make up ibis total. The abore numbers are giTen, therefore, as being the averages propor- tional to the aggregate distribution of tlie other six years stat^. 64 ABERDEENSHIRE. Union Parish Parochial School.) At first, the chapel was sup- plied by ministers of the Established and Dissenting churches ; but the Voluntary controversy having put an end to this, the sup- ply was found too burdensome for the parochial ministers alone. A chaplain was therefore appointed, but the funds could not long bear the expense of his salary, and the chapel has been for sonie time^ shut up. An effort has lately been made to clear off the debt affecting the chapel, and this being now nearly effected, there is reason to hope that a small parochial district will be allotted, and a minister settled in it in a short time. One society for promoting Christianity among the Jews ; one for promoting the Religious principles of the Reformation ; one Antipatronage Society; one North American Colonial Society; one Temperance Society ; one for Promoting Education in the Highlands and Islands ; one for promoting Female Education in India ; two for promoting the total Abolition of Slavery ; one for the Defence and Extension of the Church of Scotland; one for pro« moting Education and Reformation among the Prisoners in the JaiL Harbour. — The river, as it approaches the sea, passes through a wide basin which formerly extended from the foot of the Castle Hill, on the north side, to the lands of Torrie on the south, and the harbour of Aberdeen consisted merely of a channel near the north side of this basin, separated from the course of the Dee by the Inches — low sandy islands, generally covered at high water* For the accommodation of shipping in this harbour, the quay-head was erected (at what period is not known) opposite to the place where the weigh-house now is, and access was obtained to it from the town by the Shore Brae. The entrance to this harbour was bad, owing to a bar at the mouth of the river, the depth of water in which was often not more than two feet at low water. The earliest attempts to effect any improvement were by the -erection of a bulwark on the south side of the entrance, in 1608, and the removal, in 1618, of a large stone, which lay nearly in the middle of the river. Between 1623 and 1658, the quay was extended eastward towards Futtic, by which means a considerable portion of ground was redeemed below the Castle Hill, and this is now covered with buildings. In 1755, an additional quay was built a good way farther down, opposite the village of Torrie. In 1770, further improvements were projected, and on a report from Mr Smeaton, recommending the erection of a pier on the north side of the entrance, (by which the influx of sand from the north might be prevented, and the removal of the bar effected by confining the ABERDEEN. 65 water of the Dee withiD narrower bounds,) the work was commen- ced in 1775, and finished in 1781. The length of this pier was 1200 feet, and it terminated in a round head, whose diameter was 60 feet. Owing to a departure from Mr Smeaton's plan, (the pier having been founded too far to the north,) it was found that a heavy swell entered the harbour, — to obviate which, it was found necessary to project a bulwark from the pier, about one-third across the channel. By these means a considerable improvement was ef- fected, but as the trade of the city increased, inconvenience was still felt from deficiency of water on the bar, and, in 1810, Mr Tel- ford, having been consulted on the means of remedying this, recom- mended that the pier should be extended, and that wet docks should be formed in the harbour. These works were undertaken forthwith, and the pier was completed in 1816 to the extent of 900 feet beyond the head of Mr Smeaton's pier, where it was finished with a round head. This, however, was destroyed by the sea in the following winter, but being rebuilt with a slope towards the sea, it has since stood without very material damage. A break- water, extending to the length of 800 feet, was also built on the south side, by which the mouth of the channel was narrowed, and the entrance protected from the south-east storms. Wharfs were built along the harbour on the south-west side of Futtie — the pier formerly built opposite Torrie was enlarged, and more lately the quay has been extended westward from the old quay-head, and by raising embankments on the Inches, a considerable range of quay- room has been obtained there, which is connected with the town by a swivel bridge opposite the foot of Marischal Street By means of all these improvements quay-room has been provided to the ex- tent of about 4000 feet, and a tide liarbour has been formed in which the depth of water at spring tides is about 1 1 feet at the west end, gradually increasing to about 15 feet, where it joins the course of the river, and the depth of water on the bar has been increased to about 1 9 feet. The wet docks planned by Mr Telford not having been execut- ed, a plan for completing the harbour, not very materially different from his, was lately recommended by Mr Walker, and a Bill found- ed on this plan was last session introduced into Parliament, but it was thrown out in committee, in consequence of the opposition made to it by many of the merchants and shipowners, to whom it appeared that it would have the effect of greatly curtailing the ex- tent of the tide harbour, without giving any adequate compensation ABERDEEN. E C6 ABERDEENSHIUE. by the increase of accommodation, which it was proposed to pro- vide in the docks, — while ;i very serious addition would be made to the debt by which the harbour funds are already encumbered. Shippinff, Ship-huilding^ and Trade, — Ship-building is carried on in Aberdeen by several firms with considerable spirit, as the subjoined table of the vessels and tonnage built here for the last seven years will evince : 1832. 1633. 1834. 1835. 1830. 1837. 1H38. Vessels, 2 6 8 8 14 17 23 Tonnage, 198 1100 1329 1573 1916 3347 4058 Within the last year, the building of iron vessels has been com- menced in this port, and a very large one of this description is now nearly ready for being launched. In 1836, the harbour trustees furnished a patent slip for hauling up vessels requiring repair. The cost of this was L. 8337. It has been extensively employed, and the sums paid for its use will abundantly compensate for the expense incurred in procuring it, while great facility is thus given to the repair of vessels. The number of vessels and the amount of their tonnage, regis- tered as belonging to the port of Aberdeen for the last seven years is as follows : 1832. ]833. 1834. ias5. 1836. 1837. 1838. Vessels, 191 178 173 175 172 177 185 Tonnage, 28096 26489 26063 27274 26635 29060 31063 The introduction of steam navigation at Aberdeen took place in 1821, when the Velocity of 256 tons burthen, and furnished with two engines of 110 horses' power, began to ply between Aber- deen and I^ith. Another vessel was soon after put into the same trade, and more recently, other two with more powerful engines were added, and these now run during the greater part of the year between Leith and Aberdeen, making also stated voyages to Ler- wick and Kirkwall, and to Wick and Inverness. The amount of steam power at present employed in this trade is 640 horses' power, and the tonnage of the vessels is 1360 tons. In 1827, a steamer of larger size than any of these, the Queen of Scotland, of 550 tons, began to ply between Lon- don and Aberdeen, and soon after, another was put into the same trade. A third, still larger, was more recently added, and an opposition having been attempted by another company, a junction was soon after effected, in consequence of which a fourth steamer was employed. These vessels sail weekly from Aberdeen and London ; but it is cause of regret to many that the AHERDEEN. 67 time fixed on for their sailing is the evening tide of Saturday, by which means they are necessarily at sea on the Sabbath ; and wheb any detention occurs from weather or other causes, they most improperly leave the port on the Sabbath day. Attempts have been made to put an end to this abuse, but they have not as yet been successful. The amount of steam j)ower in the vessels in this trade is 860 horses' power, and their tonnage is 2410 tons. One of these vessels makes weekly voyages to Hull. There is an inconvenience attending the use of these large vessels, that, from their draught of water, they are unable to enter or leave the harbour, except at the top of the tide ; and sometimes when the tide is small, detention takes place from their not having sufficient water to float them if they are heavily laden, especially as there is a bank formed where the basin of the harbour joins the channel of the Dee, which it has not as yet been found practicable com- pletely to remove, and on which they sometimes get aground ; so that, on the whole, it seems preferable, at least in the present state of the harbour, to employ vessels of a smaller draught of water. Besides these, there are two steamers which sail between Dun- dee and Aberdeen, and one between Aberdeen and Peterhead during the summer season. A small tug steamer is employed for hauling ships into the harbour, and taking them out when required. Several steamers have been built and wholly fitted up at Aber- deen ; and the making of marine steam-engines is carried on by two firms to a considerable extent. The extent of the shipping trade of Aberdeen may be, in some* degree, estimated by the following table drawn up for the last five years by Mr Riddell, the clerk of the Shore Dues* Office, which exhibits a view of the shipping actually arriving at the port in the course of each year, terminating on the 1st July : Tonnage. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. Venels belonging to Aberdeen, 156,835 165,496 175,652 168810* 173.802 Belonging to other British ports, 25.271 28,947 24,273 23,936* 30.846 Foreign tcsmIs, . . 1888 1732 2118 2721 4244 Totol, . . 183,994 196,175 202,043 195,467 208,8£2 The following tables, also drawn up by the care of Mr Riddell, show the principal articles of import and export during the same period of five years, from the 1st July 1833 : * This diminution of tonnage is only apparent, the difTerence being occasioned \j m late aheration in the mode of measurement. 68 ABEKDEENSHlltK. Lime. Tons Imports. 1834. 61,060 14,084 10,739 1276 2679 330 1155 2521 1567 1835. 68,627 17,391 13,964 1072 3451 400 1283 2488 1472 1836. 74,154 18,824 12.735 1224 3350 537 1483 2928 1753 1837. 93,349 13,749 13,836 1157 4014 492 1514 2500 1710 2378 12 198 3828 3660 20,398 6397 1837. 19,880 707 46,219 6947 4266 5234 7388 3510 32,055 16,979 20,986 7001 53 807 2358 168 183a 93,023 15,681 12,081 Cotton. 1320 Flax. 3460 Hemp, Wool. 435 1657 Iron. ... 4154 Salt. 1294 Bones. . . 3919 Whalebone, While blubber. Wood i American, ^*^**' { East country, Wheat, Flour, Granite, IVIeal, , . Tuns Loads 64 1125 1919 1500 10,516 6596 EXFOUTS. 1834. 24,158 687 75,512 9426 4597 10,372 8691 2924 31,840 14,222 17,115 2405 29 940 1001 57 50 876 2445 1444 14,713 9623 1835. 22,494 298 92,006 8805 4840 7981 8183 3192 30,497 15,436 17,024 3125 29 630 1214 154 12 240 3358 2887 15.635 8263 1836. 17,338 a36 69,239 9261 6006 7757 8120 3970 30,482 16.336 20043 8048 84 1407 3034 149 5 115 3792 3684 Qrs. Sacks Tons 7202 8219 1838. 27,292 328 Oats and bear, Butter, Poik, Qrs. Cwts. 17.057 7204 4078 Salmon, E^gs, Porter. B. B. 4270 6395 2415 Ilax goods, Cotton do. Woollen do. • 32,716 15,778 24,422 5834 97 Cattle, Horses. No. Sheep and lambs. Pigs, Dogs, 1045 1562 1K3 Canal. — In 1793, the formation of a navigable canal for barges, to connect the harbour of Aberdeen with the river Don at Inverury, was projected, and in 1796 an Act of Parliament was obtained, by which the projectors were empowered to raise by the sale of shares L. 20,000 for this purpose. Of this sum only L. 1 7,700 was raised, and it was found necessary to apply for another act, which was obtained in 1801, empowering the proprietors to raise L. 20,000 additional by the creation of new shares. Only L. 10,000 of this was obtained, but not long after other L. 10,000 was raised by mortgage, and the canal was opened in 1807. Its length is a little more than 18 miles, its average breadth is about 25 feet at the surface of the water, and the depth is 3 feet 9 inches. It has 17 locks, one of which is 10 feet in height, 15 are 8 feet each, and one is 3 feet. The line chosen for it is not, in the opinion of some, the most advantageous that might have been obtained, as it throws the greater number of the locks to the lower end, within threeor four miles of Aberdeen, in consequence of ABERDEEN. GO which the delay and expense of short carriages are rendered con- siderably greater than they would have been otherwise, and the inducement to the transport, for example, of stones from the large granite quarries in the neighbourhood of the town, is much lessen- ed. Nevertheless, the trade on it has not been inconsiderable, though hitherto not sufficient to pay off the mortgage debt, and therefore, as yet, altogether unproductive to the holders of either the new or the original shares. In 1832, the holders of the mortgage, being sensible of the great advantage which would accrue to the trade of the canal from its being connected by a tide-lock with the harbour, agreed to fore- go their dividends for a time, in order to permit this to be effected, and the tide-lock, whose height is 6 feet, was accordingly executed in 1834, at an expense of about L.1500. By this means, the canal barges can be loaded and discharged at the ship's side, and can enter the canal readily at half-tide ; by which, the intercourse on it has been greatly facilitated and the trade consequently increased. The dues charged on articles con- veyed by the canal are from ^d. to l^d. per ton per mile, accord- ing to the nature of the goods. The following tables shew the quantities of the principal ar- ticles transported by the canal for the last seven years : — I. Upwards. 1832. 183 Lime, Tons, Coals, ... Dung, Bark, Bones, 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. 2886 2829 3668 4684 4068 4554 3992 1888 2184 2144 2659 3199 3968 4759 102 287 330 \- 96 188 1642 670 95 74 112 108 106 58 .114 *•* •■• ft ■ • 278 498 635 1394 II. Downwards. 1832. 1833. ias4. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. 1869 2180 1072 1097 142 2832 1780 211 461 381 522 358 147 118 9981 17,652 36,430 33,285 32,635 30,222 21,544 18 33 129 57 149 260 464 146 117 ... 338 590 436 68 Stones, Tons. Slates, Oats & Dear, Qrs. Meal, Tons. Wheat, Qrs. ITie increase in the quantity of grain is to be in part ascribed to the introduction of covered barges, by which the cargo is effec- tually protected from rain on its passage. A Fly or passage boat was, at an early period, established on the canal, and for some years it was carried on with considerable suc- cess ; but the establishment of numerous coaches on the adjoin- ing turnpike road, presenting the advantage of quicker travelling, though at a higher rate, had the effect of diminishing the profits of the fly-boat very materially. With the view of obtaining a re- 70 ABEIIDEKNSHIRE. iiewal of the encouragement formerly given to it, an iron boat was lately procured, and the rate of going was increased from about four to eight or nine miles an hour. The experiment cannot be, by any means, said to have failed, but the effect has not hitherto been so favourable as might have been anticipated. Flux Manufacture. — The manufacture of flax is carried on to a considerable extent in Aberdeen by three firms, all of which carry on the several branches of spinning, bleaching, and the manufac^ ture of linen of every quality, from the coarsest floor-cloth and Osnaburghs, to the finest shirting, and one of the houses is exten- sively engaged in the manufacture of sewing thread. The aggregate power employed by them consists of steam to the extent of about 460 horses' power, and water (used in the mills on Don side, about two miles from Aberdeen,) to the extent of about 250 horses' power. The number of persons employed in these branches of manu* facture is about 7600, of whom nearly two-thirds work in the mills* and the remainder are employed at the bleachfields, or as out-door weavers. The amount of wages paid by these houses weekly is about L. 2600 or L. 2700, at rates varying from 2s. 6d. to Ss. to girls, and from 7s. to L. 1 to weavers. Cotton Manufacture. — This branch of manufacture is carried on at Aberdeen by four houses, all of which are employed as spinners, and one of them also in power-loom weaving. Two of these houses have their works on Don side, about three miles from Aberdeen. The other two are in town. The ag- gregate of power employed by these firms is about 600 horses' power, of which 260 are obtained by water power, the rest being steam.* The number of hands employed in this branch is about 2000 or 2200, and the weekly amount of wages paid is from L. 700 to L. 800. Woollen Manufacture. — There are in Aberdeen and the neigh* bourhood two large houses engaged in the woollen trade, and four or five small ones. Tliey are principally occupied in making of worsted carpets and hosiery. One of them is also employed in the manufacture of broad cloth. * During the suiDmer season, there is often a deficiency of water in the river, and several steam-engines have been put up for the purpose of meeting this exigency. This apph'cs also to the flax-mills on the Don. ABERDEEN. 71 The extent of the power used by them is about 320 horses' power, of which 150 are obtained by water, the rest being steano. From 2200 to 2500 persons are in the employ of these houses, and the weekly amount of wages paid is about L. 1 000. Stone Trade, — The trade of Aberdeen in stones is very consi- derable, as will be seen from the table of exports. The principal part of this trade is in paving stones sent to London ; but there have also been, at various times, large quantities of building stones exported ; and some of the bridges over the Thames are in great part built of, or faced with, Aberdeen granite. Some of the largest blocks that have been exported, were those sent, not many years since, to the docks j t Sheerness. The extreme beauty of the granite when polished is well known ; but its very great hardness formed an almost insuperable bar to its general introduction, while the work of polishing it was carried on only by manual labour Within these few years, however, Mr Alexander Macdonald has contrived, by several very ingenious adaptations of machinery to this purpose, and by some very considerable improvements in the tools used, to effect a very great reduction in the expense of the process, insomuch that ornamental articles of polished granite, such as slabs, chimney pieces, pedestals, and vases may now be procured from his manufactory here, for about one-third of the price which formerly they cost Iron Manufacture, — The quantity of iron annually worked in Aberdeen is very considerable, and it is daily increasing, in con- sequence of the introduction of new branches of the manufacture, or of the extension of those formerly existing in the place. It is not many years since the making of spinning machinery, and of steam-engines, was altogether unknown in the town, and there are now eight or ten machine-makers, of whom five are engaged in the making of steam-engines; and three, to a CQnsiderable extent, make both land and marine engines. Iron ship-building, too, has been introduced here within the last two years, and there is at present a vessel of this description on the stocks, of the burden of 550 tons by measurement, being, it is believed, the largest sailing ves- sel that has yet been constructed of iron. There are in Aberdeen and its immediate vicinitv eiorht founde- ries, at most of which the heaviest castings can be executed. One of the firms engaged in this trade has a forge hammer and a rol- ling mill ; and there are three establishments at which the hea- viest anchor-work is performed. There are also two houses eu- 72 ABERDEENSHIRE. gaged to a considerable extent in chain-making; and five or six of the firms are employed in boiler-making. The number of men employed in this trade may be about 1000. It is difficult to state the average rate of wages with any degree of confidence ; perhaps it may be from 18s. to L. 1, 5s. weekly ; and the annual amount of wages paid is probably not under L. 60,000. Paper-making. — The first paper-mill in this neighbourhood was erected at Peterculter about the year 1770. Others were sub- sequently set agoing in other situations ; and there are now four in the vicinity of Aberdeen, viz. at Peterculter, belonging to Messrs Arbuthnot and M'Combie ; at Mugiemoss, Charles Da- vidson and Sons ; at Waterton, Thomas Jaffray ; and at Stony- wood, Messrs Alexander Pirie and Sons. Of these, the three first make only coarse paper ; the last makes writing and printing papers. The power employed to drive these mills is altogether by water, and cannot be reckoned at less than 250 horses' power, and the number of persons directly occupied in the manufacture may be from 300 to 40^0. Within the last five years, the quantity manu- factured has been doubled, and there is a prospect of a still increas- ing production. The material for the coarse papers (consisting of rags, ropes, and mill waste,) is mostly collected in this and the neighbouring counties. For the finer kinds the chief supply is from abroad, though considerable quantities of rags are collected here. By the last returns of the Excise from which we can derive local information, the duty upon the paper manufactured in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen was, for the year ending 5th January 1835, 1st Class paper, paying at that time a duty of Sd. per lb., 1,014,768 lbs. L. 12,684 12 2d Class paper, paying a duty of l^d. per lb. 245,537 lbs., 1534 12 1^ L. 14,219" 4 !( We have no certain ground to go upon in regard to the quan- tity produced last year ; but it is probable that the duty paid at the equalized rate of l^d. per lb. amounted to nearly, if not fully, L. 12,000. Rope and Twine-making. — There are in Aberdeen eight rope- making works of considerable extent, besides several small ones ; and of these, three are chiefly employed in the manufacture of cordage for ships, the others being principally engaged in rope* ABERDEE^^ 73 making for agricultural and general purposes, and in the making of twines for fishing and for manufacturers. The number of men and boys employed in this branch of manufacture is rather above than under 200. It is not easy to give any statement of the amount of wages paid, as some of the manufacturers hire their men by the piece, and others do not; but it cannot probably be much under JL 5000 annually. Comb-making. — This branch of industry was introduced into Aberdeen as far back as 1788, but it was carried on in a very small way only till 1830, when the tirm of Stewart, Rowell, and Co. commenced on a larger scale than has been done in any other part of Scotland, and they were the first in Scotland to apply steam- power to this department. The number of workmen employed by this firm is at present 245, the weekly apiount of wages paid by them about L. 90, and the number of combs of all kinds finished in this manufactory amounts to about 43,200 weekly, which, in consequence of the im- provements recently introduced in the methods of manufacture, can be sold now at a price not more than one-sixth of what they cost nine years ago. Fisheries. — It is probable that there have been fishers settled at the mouth of the Deo, both in Futtie and at Torrie, (on the south side) ever since Aberdeen became a town of any noticeable mag- nitude. The fishers who now inhabit these villages are, like those along most of the east coast of Scotland, evidently of a race dis- tinct from the other inhabitants, and from their aspect, features, and other circumstances, it seems probable that they have come from the opposite coasts of Denmark and Sweden. They occupy a village consisting of two squares of houses, which were erected by the town some twenty years ago, at the south-east extremity of the parish, and immediately adjacent to the entrance of the harbour. Each house consists of a but and a ben, with oc- casionally a small apartment between. The magistrates designed to have made the houses of two stories, but the fishers refused to live up stairs, and they also refused to have any other than an earthen floor in their houses. In both of these, though there may have been some superstition and a good deal of prejudice, there was also some reason,-— for it would have been next to impossible for them to have kept a wooden floor clean, while an earthen one, if not clean, at any rate does not show the dirt so much, and it would have been very inconvenient for them to lug their long lines 74 ABEUDEENSHIRE. and their heavy baskets up stairs. On the whole, their houses are, generally speaking, as clean and comfortable as the nature of their occupation will admit of. From the circumstance of most of these fishers being employed as pilots, and from their immediate connection with the harbour, and constant intercourse with the inhabitants of Aberdeen, there is in them a greater degree of civilization than is observable in most of the other fishing communities. At the same time, their double employment as fishers and pilots is by no means favourable to (heir religious, moral, and domestic habits. The unavoidable want pf regularity in their hours, the general practice of giving allowances in drink for any particular service, and their custom of dividing the pilotage money among the boat's crews'gcnerally on Saturday evening, all tend to lead them to the public house, where sometimes a large portion of their earnings is spent. Yet drunkenness, though prevalent among them, is by no means universal, and the number of exceptions seems to be ihcreas* ing of late. A fisherman who is a pilot will earn as much as L. 1, 10s. or even L. 2 per week during summer, but not half so much during winter. On an average, however, they can make fully as much as any other labourers in the same class of society, and of this money the husband has the possession and command, while the wife re- tains possession of all the money arising from the sale of fish. It is not often that either party manages these gains to the best ad- vantage. The fishers are a hard-working people and extremely honest, and they deem it the greatest possible reproach to cast a doubt on their honesty, which they arc the more easily enabled to maintain unimpeachable, because all their bargains and transactions are for ready money. They seldom marry with persons not of their own community, except in a few instances where the daughters of fishers have mar- ried with seamen and ship-carpenters. This may arise not so much from any dislike to form connections out of their own craft, as from the fact that, on the one hand, a fisherman would find a woman of any other class wholly incapable of giving him any as- sistance in this occupation, and unable to perform the hard work devolving on the fisherwomen ; and, on the other hand, a fisher- woman, from the irregularity of her occupation, and want of leisure and opportunity to attend to her daughters, unless when they fol- ABERDEEN. 75 low her in her fishing employments, cannot educate them so as to be useful wives to persons of any other class. A free school was established some years ago by Mr John Da- vidson, goldsmith, exclusively for the white-fishers, and it has been the means of doing a great deal of good among them. It is taught on the plan of the sessional school, and its effects are manifest in the decided and progressive improvement of the manners and ha- bits of the fishers. The children who attend the school re-act on their parents, and, as it were, shame them out of their indifierence to useful knowledge and habits. The fishers are, generally speaking, a long-lived people and very healthy, and, notwithstanding the dangerous nature of their occupation, there are few accidents of serious consequence among them. Like most other fishermen, they have a good many superstitious ideas and practices, and they have implicit faith in many traditions, and in various omens. Thus they reckon it very offensive for any one to count a boat's crew, or a company of them returning from market, and it is not less so to tell how many fish they have caught. If a fisher be turned back when he is going out to fish, he will on no account go out that day, and is very much provoked. Often, too, things, which any one but they would esteem mere trifles, can- not be spoken of without interfering with some omen, whose influ- ence they would hold it sinful to doubt. It is at the same time to be noticed, that the fishers of Futtie have less superstitions than those that live in the fishing-villages along the coast, both to the north and south, where they live al- most entirely secluded from intercourse with the inland agricultu^ ral population. Hhale-Fisliing was first introduced into Aberdeen in the year 1753, and the success which attended the first attempts induced others to embark in the same trade, which, for a time, was very profitable. Accordingly, the number of ships from Aberdeen en- gaged in whale-fishing gradually increased, till, in 1820, there were fifteen, which, on an average, had about fifty hands each. The greatest tonnage of oil brought home by these vessels in one sea- son was in 1823, when fourteen vessels brought 1841 tons. Of late years, however, from various causes, such as the withdrawing of the Government bounty, the reduction of the duty on foreign seeds from which oil is made, the diminished demand for oil, of late, in cohsequence of the introduction of gas as a means of ob- 76 ABERDEENSHIRE. taining light, and the want of success in the fishery, several ves- sels having repeatedly come home clean, the trade has been, in a great measure, given up, and there are only two vessels at present engaged in it from this port Salmon^Fishing. — This branch of trade has been long carried on with considerable spirit, and generally with good succesS) at Aberdeen, and the rents of the fishings in the river Dee form an important item in the revenue of the town, and of several private proprietors. Of late, too, the fishing has been carried on to a considerable extent by stake-nets on the beach. At present, the number of men employed in salmon -fishing here may be about 200, and the annual amount of wages paid about L. 3000. In an average season, the quantity of fish caught may be reckoned at 20,000 salmon, averaging ten lbs. each, and 40,000 grilses of four pounds each, of which by far the greater part is pack- ed in ice, and shipped for the London market, a very small part only being put into tin cases for exportation. It is now about thirty years since the mode of using ice for preserving the salmon fresh was introduced in Aberdeen. Previous to that time, the fishers were under the necessity of boiling it and preserving it with vinQ-> gar, but this mode is now almost altogether disused. The average price obtained for the salmon and grilses sent to London is about 8d. per lb. Herring-Fisliing. — Until within the last few years, this branch of industry was not prosecuted to any extent in Aberdeen. The late Provost Blaikie used his endeavours to establish it, and, to a certain degree, these endeavours were successful. The number of boats employed in it has been annually increasing; and last year there were about 60 thus engaged during the season, and their success has hitherto been such as leaves no room for doubting, that this fishery will continue to be prosecuted, probably to a greater extent than it has hitherto been. Supply of Water. — After two ineffectual attempts in the course of the seventeenth century, measures were at last taken in 1706 for introducing a supply of spring water into the town, and at first a single well was suppHed in Castle Street ; but soon after, others were added in different parts of the town. The supply having be- come inadequate from the increased population, additional springs were taken in, andacistern, capable of holdings 1,000 gallons, erect- ed in Broad Street in i766. The water from these springs was of excellent quality, though that from the lower springs next the town ABERDEEN. 77 was more pure than what came from the upper and more distant springs ; but both the low level and the"smallness of the springs pre- vented the whole of the town being supplied from them. The average produce of the lower springs in ordinary seasons was about 75 gal- lons per minute, and of the upper springs about 55 ; but both were liable to considerable diminution in dry seasons. The demands of the city having increased with its population, and considerable in- convenience having been experienced on several occasions by the deficiency of the supply, it was resolved in 1830 to bring a supply of water into town from the river Dee, and for this purpose a steam- engine was erected at the north end of the bridge of Dee, about a mile and three-quarters distant The water is brought to this engine by a tunnel about a quarter of a mile long, which does not communicate directly with the river, but receives the water by fil- tration through a bed of sand. There are two single stroke en- gines used, each of fifty horses^ power, which are wrought alternate- ly for about twelve hours per day, and by these the water is forced into a cistern situated at the west end of Union Place, and elevated 130 feet above the engine, being placed at the height of 40 feet above the street, by which means sufficient elevation is obtained to permit the water to be distributed abundantly to all parts of the town. The size of this cistern is 50 feet by 30, with a depth of 9 feet, and it is capable of containing 84,375 gallons. The quan- tity of water raised by these engines in twenty-four hours is about 900,000 gallons, and it is distributed through the town to supply both the public wells and private service pipes to the inhabitants, through pipes, the aggregate length of which is nearly eleven miles and a-half. The number of public wells is at present 92, and there are 909 private service pipes. The expense of procuring and main- taining this supply is defrayed by an assessment of 9d. per pound on the rent of the houses; shops, warehouses, &c. being charged 4s. annually in place of this. These persons who wish to have a supply for their own use are charged additional 6d. per L. 1 of rent. The management of the supply of water is vested in the Com- missioners of Police, on whom falls also the care of lighting, pav- ing, cleaning, and watching the streets, and for these purposes (the expense of paving any street for the first time being borne by the proprietors of the houses in the street) a police assessment is le- vied, of 2s. per pound on the rent if above L. 3 and under L. 7, and 2s. 3d. if above this. The number of public lamps is 1 130, of which 996 in the principal streets are lighted with gas, the rest being oil lamps. TTne number of men employed in cleatvmg V\\ third at the end of three months on producing a certificate of his honesty and industry since dismissal, and the re- mainder after other six months on a like certificate being produced. The amount of the prisoners' earnings during the year from 1st September 1837 was L.409, being the largest sum, in proportion to the number of prisoners, realized in any prison in the kingdom during a-year. The hours of labour are in summer from 5 a. m. to 8 p. M., and in winter, from 6 a. m. to 8 p. m., with the neces- sary intervals for diet. The governor is empowered to punish for disobedience, idleness, &c. by withholding a part of the allowance of food, by confinement in a dark cell, by restricting the diet to bread and water, or by putting in irons ; but during the last year 3 ABERDEEN. 81 out of 281 prisoners, only 71 were punished in any way,— a small proportion, considering the character and dispositions of the in- mates. Every prisoner who can read is supplied with a Bible, and all are visited at least once a week by the chaplain, who exhorts, catechises, and prays, with each separately. Those who conduct themselves well are allowed to read the Scottish Christian Herald, Chambers's Edinburgh Journal, and the volumes of the Kildare Street Library. The teacher attends for three hours and a-half daily to give in- structions in reading, writing, and arithmetic, to the prisoners who require them, each in his own cell, and the-governor examines, and reports their progress monthly to the commissioners. The surgeon attends daily, but there is very little sickness in the establishment. Only four prisoners have died in the house since it was opened. Of these two were ill when committed, and lived only a few days ; one was liable to epilepsy, and was found dead in his cell in the morning; and the fourth was a woman about ninety years of age, who had passed the greater part of the last twenty years of her life in prison. The expenses of the es- tablishment are defrayed by an assessment on the heritors of the city and county, Tialf being borne by each. The amount collect- ed has been for some years L.900; of which about L. 600 are required for the annual expenses, the remainder being applied to the reduction of the debt, whose present amount is L. 4300. In consequence of the majority of the prisoners being conGned for short periods, little permanent improvement of their morals can be expected ; for that system of discipline must indeed be ad- mirable, which could in thirty or sixty days eradicate bad habits and implant good ones ; nevertheless, there can be no doubt, that the discipline of Bridewell has had a salutary effect on many of those who have been committed, in the first instance, for long pe- riods, as only a small proportion of these have returned a second time, and some of them are known to be now engaged in honest employment It is not possible to say to what extent the fear of this prison has operated on the criminal population of the district ; but it is worthy of remark that, although the general population is rapidly increasing, the number of criminals is apparently rather decreasing than otherwise, as will be seen by the following table of commit- ments for the last seven years : ABERDEEN. F S2 ABKRDEENSIIlltG. TotJ com- H^m. j^j , p j Under Abo»e mitments. mitments. 17. 17. From Sept. 1831 to Sept. la^ 288 1S4 189 99 53 235 . 1832 ... 1833, 221 105 128 93 29 192 1833 ... 1834, 217 75 142 75 39 178 1834 ... 1835, 247 97 168 79 49 196 1835 ... 1836, 275 120 172 103 56 219 183G ... ia37, 209 85 121 88 39 170 iaS7 ... ia%, 231 114 129 102 48 183 The following statement will give some idea of the state of edu* cation, &c. of the persons generally committed to the Bridewell : During the year from 1st January to 31st December 1838^ the number of individuals committed was 252 ; of which were recom- mitments, 32 ; making the number committed for the 6rst time^ 220. Of these 220, there were 42 who could not read, 76 could read with difficulty, and 102 could read easily ; 124 could not write, 82 could write a little, and 14 could write easily ; 83 attend- ed no place of worship, 103 attended church occasionally, and 34 had been in the habit of attending regularly. 67 were natives of the town of Aberdeen ; 40 of the county of Aberdeen ; 40 of the counties north of Aberdeen ; 48 of the counties south of Aberdeen ; 14 of England ; 9 of Ireland ; and 2 were foreigners. Of the whole 252 commitments, there were attributed to intoxi- cation, 131 ; idleness and bad company, 78; want, 10; uncertain, denied their guilt, &c. 33. Prison. — The old prison, which was situated in the tower under the steeple in Castle Street, was in every respect unsuited to its object, being neither properly ventilated, sufficiently capacious, nor secure. In 1829, the foundation of a new prison was laid im- mediately behind the Court-house, and it was first occupied in July 1831. It contains sixty cells and ten day-rooms, one of which is appropriated for debtors; the other nine have lately been converted into work-rooms. There are six yards within the pre- cincts of the prison, four of which are used by the male prisoners, and one by the females, the remaining one being connected with the debtors' room. The criminal prisoners are not permitted to hold any intercourse with each other, and they are kept apart as much as possible. They are all employed, tried as well as untried, in such works as pick- ing oakum, weaving, tailor-work, &c., and for the females knitting and sewing, and an account is kept of the produce of their labour, and their earnings are given to them on leaving the prison. They are allowed access to the yard one at a time, for about two hours each, daily. ABERDEEN. 83 A teacher attends in the prison daily from 10 a. m. to 1 p. m. and the chaplain visits five times in the week, exhorting, catechis- ing, and praying with each prisoner separately. The female pri* soners, who are under the care of a female assistant to the jailer, are also visited every lawful day, except Saturday, by the mem- bers of the ^* Ladies' Association for promoting the Reformation of Destitute Females." The diet of the prisoners is of the plainest kind, but wholesome and in suflScient quantity ; and the introduction of every kind of luxury into the prison is strictly prohibited. Untried prisoners are permitted to be visited by their relatives in the presence of the keeper of the prison, once a week, but after conviction this liberty is allowed only once a month. The expense of mamtaining the prisoners, and of keeping up the necessary establishment, as well as the repairs of the building, is defrayed out of the rogue money ; the city and county bearing each a share proportioned to the number of prisoners from each. The debtors are not subjected to the same restrictions as the criminal prisoners, being permitted the free use of the yard and day -room of their ward from 6 a. m. to 9 p. m. daily. The average number of prisoners during 1838 was about 57; the greatest number at one time being 86, and the smallest, 39. The gross expenses (including salaries, repairs, &c.) of the es- tablishment was, during the year 1836, L.670 ; 1837, L. 61 1 ; 1838, L. 901. No sufficient return has been obtained of the number of com- mitments, unless for the last year, when they were, males, 386 ; fe- males, 124 : total, 509. By a return made for one year previous to August 1838, it appears that there were in prison during that period, Males under 17 years of age* 79 Females under 17, 16 above . . 231 above • 95 "iio TIT The state of education among these was found to be as folh)ws : Males. Females. Could not read, 29 . . 10 Could read a little, .253 . 90 Could read easily, . 28 . 11 8lF 111 Males. Females. Could not write, . 75 . 59 Could write with difficulty, 209 42 Could write easily, . 26 . 10 ^ uT 84 AKKHDEICNSIllRE. Medical Society. — In the year 1789, twelve young men, who were engaged in the study of medicine in Aberdeen, formed them- selves into a society for their mutual improvement, by meeting to discuss questions connected with medical science. Of these only four are now alive, viz. Sir James M*Grigor, BarU, the present ac- tive and enlightened Director-Generalof the Medical Department of the Army ; Dr John Grant, who has been for some years resi- dent at Forres ; Dr Colin Allan, at present settled in Nova Scotia ; and Dr James Moir, who has been long established as a practi- tioner in Aberdeen. Their meetings were, for a good many years, held in one of the class-rooms of Marischal College, and subsequently in apartments hired for the purpose ; and the additions made to their numbers by the accession of new members, both increased the usefulness of the society and testified the advantages that were derived from the discussions and examinations held at their meetings. In 1791, the commencement was made of a library devoted to medical litera- ture, and by donations from the members and their friends, as well as by the purchase from time to time of such works as their funds enabled them to procure, the collection gradually increased, so that it became necessary, in order to protect their books, as well as that they might have convenient apartments to hold their meetings in, to endeavour to obtain the means of erecting a house for the pur- poses of the society. A subscription for this purpose was accord- ingly commenced in 1809, and by the unremitted exertions of Sir James M'Grigor, very considerable additions were made to this fund during the subsequent years. It was not, however, till 1818 that the society found themselves in a condition to undertake the work of erecting the Medical Hall in King Street, which was com- pleted in 1820, and has been since that time occupied by the meet- ings of the society, and the library and museum belonging to it. When the society, during the collection of this fund, began to acquire property to a considerable amount, it was deemed requisite to provide for its security by vesting it in trustees, and a deed was accordingly drawn up in 1815, by which the Principal and Profes- sors of Marischal College were appointed to this office, and the con- stitution of the society, both at that time and subsequently, under- went certain alterations, which change of circumstances seemed to render necessary. It embraces now two classes of members9^ the one consisting of practitioners, mostly resident in or near Aber- deen, who meet once a month for the commuaicatitn of profes* ABERDEEN. 86 sional information — and the other consisting of students of medi- cine, who hold weekly meetings for mutual examination and the discussion of medical questions. The number on the roll of the ordinary members is at present 44, and the number of junior members is 10.* There are, besides, a few honorary members — distinguished men, foreigners and others, principally, though not exclusively, of the medical profession. The number of volumes in the society's library, to which the members have every facility of access, is about 3000, and there was formed, a few years ago, a collection of valuable works of refe- rence, &c. which the members may consult at the society's hall, but which are not permitted to be lent out. A regulation has lately been introduced by which the library has been rendered accessible, under certain restrictions, to students not attending the meetings of the society. The society's museum is not as yet of any great extent, but it contains some valuable anatomical and morbid preparations, as well as a good many specimens in various departments of natural history. Medical Classes. — Besides the medical lectures instituted within the last twenty years in connection with the universities, (the ac- count of which is omitted here as being more properly to be taken in along with the account of these bodies,) there have been others lately set on foot by various individuals desirous of advancing the cause of medical education in Aberdeen. These have been at- tended with a degi'ee of success probably as great as their pro- jectors anticipated, though, of course, the limited number of stu dents at Aberdeen has been a bar to any splendid success on the part of either them or the university lecturers. The following are the branches in which courses unconnected with the universities were delivered last season : — Anatomy by . Mr Moir.f Surgery, . . Do. * At the time when the society was iastituted, and for many years after, there were no medical classes in Aberdeen, and the Medical Society furnished almost the only means by which the students could with advantage prosecute their studies, by adopting a system of mutual instruction. Of late years, in consequence of the establishment of a regular medical school in Aberdeen, the opportunities of the students have been very much increased, and their mode of study materially altered, so that in fact the meetings of the society which constituted at one time its principal advantage have now come to be felt rather as a burden and an encroachment on their other occupa- tions, and this will account for the very small number of students at present on the roll of the junior class. f Mr Moir has been recently appointed Lecturer on Anatomy and Surgery to King*s College. 8G AUEKDEENSHIRE. Midwifery. . Mr Robertson. Instructions to Women, Mr Jamieson.* Medical Jurisprudence, Dr Ogston.^ Chembtry, . . Mr Shier.J: Botany, . Dr Knight. Do. . Mr Dickie.} Infirmary. — Among the institutions for the relief of the sick poor, the first and most important is the Infirmary, which was establish* ed by a subscription begun in the year 1739, in consequence of a proposal to that effect made by the magistrates, who granted a sum of about L. .*]6 annually towards its support, and also gave a plot of ground for its site. The plan adopted was one which ad- mitted of being executed in parts, and the central portion, capable of accommodating 40 patients, was erected in 1 740-41, atan expense of L. 584. The funds subscribed being exhausted in the building, " the directors were .obliged, from the very first, to borrow money for furnishing the house, and fitting up the apartments properly for the reception of patients." || In the year 174G, the patients were displaced, and the Infirmary was filled during the greater part of the year with sick and wounded soldiers belonging to the army un- der the command of the Duke of Cumberland. This interruption to the charity having ceased, and the number of applicants for re- ception continually increasing, funds were gradually provided by the donations of various individuals, collections in the neighbour- ing parishes, and bequests, and in the year 1753, it was deter- mined to build the east wing of the house, which was done at an expense of L. 495, and by this means room was obtained for 16 additional patients, and various other accommodations; and in 1760, the west wing, capable of receiving 32 patients, was added, at an expense of L. 477. No further addition of much conse- quence was made until the year 1820, when two new wards, ca- pable of accommodating 22 cases, were added, the cost of which was L. 583, for the reception of fever patients, which, of course, permitted the wards previously used as fever wards, to be added to the apartments destined for the reception of ordinary cases. But, in 1833, the managers finding a necessity for increased ac- * Mr Jamieson has recently received the appointncent of Lecturer on Midwiferr to Marischal College. ■f The appointment of Lecturer on Medical Jurisprudence to Marischal College has been lately confi-rred on Dr Ogston. X Mr Shier*8 chemical lectures have been discontinued, in consequence of his behitf appointed, by the Senatus of Marischal College, assistant to Dr Davidson, the Pro- fessor of Natural History. § Mr Dickie has been appointed Lecturer on Botany to King*s College. i Account of the Rise and Pi ogreM} of the Infirmary at Aberdeen, published 17G61 ABEllDEEN. 87 commodations, both for fevers and other complaints, resolved on erecting a new building on an enlarged scale, and with the various improvements in its construction, which have been suggested by experience and the judgment of those conversant with the requi- sites of hospitals ; and in the course of the next year, the west wing of the new house was erected, at an expense of L. 5300. Sixty beds were thus obtained for the reception of fever cases. In pursuance of the plan, a contract was entered into in the latter part of the year 1835 for the completion of the building, at an expense of L. 8500. The principal part of this erection is now finished, and has been occupied for several months. The arrangements cannot be completely carried out until certain buildings be erected in the rear of the house, on the site of the old building; but when this is accomplished, the whole number of patients that may be received into the house will be 210. The wards are of large size, lofty and well aired, in number twenty, with eleven smaller apart- ments for the reception of cases requiring to be treated separately, and with every convenience that is to be found in the most ap- proved hospitals in the island. When, by the liberality of the public, and by means of nume- rous donations and bequests, the managers of the Infirmary found themselves not merely possessed of the funds necessary for carry- ing on the institution from year to year, but able to accumulate a surplus to meet future exigencies; it became of importance that this property should be secured by giving a permanent character to the body in which it was vested. Accordingly, in 17735 a Crown charter was obtained, by which certain of the magistrates, the Professor of Medicine in Marischal College, and the Modera- tor of the Synod of Aberdeen, (all for the time being,) together with individual donors to the extent of L. 50, and persons named by those bequeathing a like sum, were appoitited to be the direc- tors, to whom were added, as annual directors, donors to the ex- tent of L. 5, and fourteen persons to be chosen out of the various bodies and classes of inhabitants in Aberdeen, according to a scheme laid down in the charter. The details of'the management of this institution are, in accord- ance with a resolution of date 28th November 1821, entrusted to a committee of sixteen chosen annually, which divides itself into four sub-committees, each of which takes the duties for three months in rotation. These sub-committees hold weekly meetings, and re- port monthly to the committee, whose proceedings aie laid before the general body of managers at their quarterly meetings. Spe- Expen- Out- Students Income. diture. Patients. Cures. Deaths. patients. eutering. L.2487 L.1986 1391 1019 82 1188 . 77 2449 1909 1556 1185 87 1250 73 2549 1945 1409 1024 86 1076 76 2446 1955 1287 893 77 1200 84 2231 1914 1307 1056 98 1245 72 2399 2436 1785 1433 95 1175 23 2220 2469 1670 1372 166 970 19 88 ABERDEENSHIRE. cial meetings of the managers are also held whenever any occa- sion renders them necessary. The subjoined table exhibits the principal particulars of interest relating to this institution for the last seven years : — Years. 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836, ia37, 1838, The medical officers of the InGrmary are 5 in number, viz. 2 physicians, 2 surgeons, and a house-surgeon, who is resident. There is also an apothecary employed to compound the medicines prescribed, and, since the removal of the establishment into the new house, two wards have been appropriated to the reception of ophthalmic cases, and placed under the charge of the surgeon at- tached to an eye institution in town. By a recent resolution of the managers, one of the physicians and one of the surgeons are appointed to deliver courses of lec- tures on Clinical Medicine and Surgery to the students attending the hospital, and from the number of cases annually treated in the institution, it has become of much importance, as an auxiliary, to the school of medicine lately established here by the authority of the Universities, and by the exertions of several private indivi- duals. The number of students frequenting the wards of the Aberdeen Infirmary has for many years been considerable, and as a certificate of attendance on its practice is received by the various public boards connected with the service of the country, there is every probability, that, while the opportunities and advantages pre- sented to students bv Aberdeen remain undiminished, there will be no material or permanent diminution in the number of students. During the last two years a considerable falling off has been expe- rienced, but neither is Aberdeen the only medical school where this has taken place, nor is the medical profession the only one in which the number of entrants has been of late considerably di- minished. . It is shown by the table, that, during the last year, the number of out-patients has been considerably diminished ; and there is a probability that, in future years, it will be still less, — an arrange* ment having been, in the course of the last year, entered info by the managers of the Infirmary, who had become possessed, as trustees, of a fund left by the late Mr Burnett of Dens» for << the ABERDEEN. 89 Bupply of medicines and medical attendance to such of the sick poor of Aberdeen and the suburbs thereof as are not fit objects to be received into the Infirmary." It was agreed that this money should be paid over to the funds of the General Dispensary, on condition of that institution affording the necessary attendance and medicines to those persons belonging to the town a d suburbs who used to be supplied as out-patients at the Infirmary. Those persons who reside in the country are still received and attended, as formerly, as out-patients. Dispensaries, — The practice of giving advice and medicines at the Infirmary to persons who could not be received into the house necessarily began almost from the very commencement of that in- stitution, and it was probably not very long after, that persons be- gan to be received as out-patients who had no wish to be admit- ted. No separate account, however, of these cases appears to have been kept until the year 1764, when the number of out-patients was 1332, and from that time they went on increasing, and thus en- tailing a heavy additional duty on the medical attendants, and causing a considerable expense to the house. In 1781', in consequence of a memorial presented to the ma- nagers of the Infirmary, they resolved to institute a Dispensary in connection with the Infirmary, — (at first as an experiment for one year, but afterwards they continued it by an annual vote,) — a part of the expense being borne by the Infirmary, and the rest de- frayed by subscriptions. This source of income having declined, however, the new institution became more burdensome to the In- firmary, and it was deemed necessary to take steps for reviving the interest of the public in the Dispensary by making collections at churches, &c , and, at the same time, to withdraw the aid which it had hitherto received from the funds of the Infirmary. In 1788, the managers of the Infirmary agreed to defray the expense of the medicines used in the Dispensary, provided the sum necessary to meet the salary of the physician were raised by subscription ; but two years after, they again deemed it necessary to disunite the Dis- pensary from the Infirmary altogether. Subsequently to this time, as the population of the town increased, other institutions, with the same benevolent design of providing advice and medicines for the sick poor at their own houses, were successively established, to the number of five, — three of which embraced the city generally, while the other twor were chiefly intended for the districts of Fut- tie and Gilcomston. In I8'23, these five were incorporated into one, caWed l\ve O^- 90 ABEUDBENSHIUE. Deral Dispensary ; the five medical men previously attending con- tinued to officiate, and, in fact, the only changes consisted in the establishment of a single depot of medicines, the election of a single set of managers, and the allotment of the town and suburbs into five districts, of which one was assigned to each of the medi- cal attendants ; lately a sixth medical attendant has been added, and a district has been assigned to him by a new division of the town. For several years, there was a midwife attached to each district, to whom was assigned the care of all ordinary cases, (for which a small allowance was made according to the number of cases,) the medical attendants giving their assistance when cases of difficulty occurred ; but in 1834, the low state of the funds compelled the managers to discontinue the allowance, and since that time the medical attendants have taken charge of all the midwifery cases applying at the institution, which, however, have been of late com* paratively few. In 1831, the small-pox being very prevalent in Aberdeen, it appeared to the medical attendants of the dispensary, that in vi- siting among the poor, they possessed peculiar facilities for en- couraging among them the practice of vaccinating their children, which was too generally neglected. It was therefore resolved to give attendance weekly at the dispensary for the purpose of vac- cinating children. Mr John Burnett had by his will, dated 1783, bequeathed a sum of money to be applied for the prevention of small-pox, and on the promulgation of Dr Jennvr's discovery, this sum was ap- propriated to defray the expense of an institution for vaccination. For a good many years, the numbers who were beneBted by this institution were considerable, but in consequence partly of the in- creasing prevalence of the custom of midwives vaccinating the children at whose birth they had assisted, and partly of the ne- gligence of parents to avail themselves of the means of avoiding a disease whose ravages were become much less formidable than they had formerly b€on, the Vaccine Institution declined very much, so that at the time when the medical attendants of the (general Dispensary began to vaccinate, the office of the Vac- cinator had become little better than a sinecure, and medical men often experienced great inconvenience from the inadequate supply of lymph that could be obtained at the Vaccine Institution. These circumstances, and the success which had attended the attempt to ABERDEEN. 91 induce parents to bring their children for vaccination to the Dis- pensary, led to a proposftl to incorporate the two institutions to- gether, and this was accordingly done in 1837, by the appoint- ment of the Vaccinator as one of the medical attendants of the Dispensary, having charge of a district of the town in addition to his duties as Vaccinator. The number of children vaccinated at the institution previous to its junction with the General Dispen- sary was 6543. The only permanent income which the General Dispensary possesses, except the annual income arising from Mr Burnett's bequest (which continues to be received by the Vaccinator as his salary,) is the interest of a bequest of L. 400 by the late Mr J. Cushnie, which was left in 1793 to the two Dispensaries at that time existing in Aberdeen. Excepting this, the whole support of the institution rests on voluntary subscriptions, and an occasional collection at some of the churches. Subsequently to the esta- blishment of the General Dispensary, two others have been set on foot in Aberdeen. One in the lower part of the town, whose ob- ject is principally to provide speedy assistance in the numerous accidents which happen oii board the ships and in the various works about the harbour, and the other in the western part of the town, and altogether beyond the limits of the parish. The ex- penses of both of these are borne entirely by voluntary contribu- tions, and they amount together to about L.60 annually. The subjoined table shows the income, expenditure, and num- ber of patients treated by all the institutions of this sort in town for the last seven years. Years. 1832, 1833, ia34, 1836, 1837, 1838, Lunatic Asylum. — Connected with the Infirmary of Aberdeen, in so far as it is under the management of the same body of di- rectors, is the asylum for the reception of lunatics — an institution which was begun in the year 1799. Previous to that time there was no attention paid to the comforts of this unfortunate class in Aberdeen, and but very little provision made for their safety ; the only accommodations provided being a few miserable cells on the * Subsetiucnt to this date, the midwifery cases of the General Dwpcns&T"^ atu \\\- eluded in the general report. Expen. Mid- Vacci- Income. diture. Patients. Cure by establishing a paper whose characteristic should rather be its Christian principle, than its political partisanship. In this attempt. ABERDEEN. 101 however, they were unsuccessful, and the paper is accordingly merely a Conseryative journal, which in Church politics favours tlie moderate party. Its weekly circulation is about 900. At first it was published on Saturday, but, in consequence of recent changes in the time of arrival of the mails, it has for some months past been published on Friday morning in town, a second edition being publish- ed in the evening for country circulation, embracing the intelligence that used formerly to be brought by the mail of Saturday morning. Public Libraries. — Besides the libraries belonging to the Uni- versity, the School of Divinity, the Medical Society, the Society of Advocates, and the Mechanics' Institution, there are several subscription libraries in Aberdeen, the principal of which are those belonging to Messrs A. Brown and Co., D. Wylie and Son, and W. Russell. The number of volumes contained in these libraries may be about 10,000 or 12,000; they are chiefly in the lighter depart- ments of literature, but there are many also of more permanent interest, and of a more important character. The terms of subscription vary from 15s. to L.I, lis. 6d. per annum, according to the number of volumes borrowed at a time, and, generally speaking, these libraries are tolerably well supplied with the new publications, at least with those by authors whose reputation is already establbhed : in regard to works of less ge- neral interest, either as respects their subject, or the name of their author, it cannot be supposed that the proprietors of sucl^jibraries should be desirous of accumulating them on their shelves ; and, indeed, there is often great difficulty in getting a sight of them in any other way than by purchasing them, for the booksellers in Aberdeen do not often choose to incur the risk of ordering books that are not already in some degree regarded as standard works, unless in consequence of receiving an order for them from ah in- tending purchaser. Markets. — There is a weekly market on Thursdays for meal, and on Fridays for grain, butcher-meat, and other provisions. Within the last few years several butchers' shops have been opened in diflferent parts of the town, where a supply of meat may be ob- tained on any day of the week. There is a market of fish daily, unless in tempestuous weather ; and a supply of cured fish, including the well known ^^ Findon haddocks," may be had daily. A market for the sale of linen is held in the Green on the last 1 02 ABERDEENSHIRE. Wednesday of April, and a wool market is held there in the last week of June, and the first two weeks of July, on Thursday and Friday. The timber-market, for the sale of tubs and other wooden ar- ticles, is held in the Castle Street on the last Wednesday in August The feeing-market for the hiring of farm-servants is held in the vicinity of the meal-market at Aberdeen, on the second Friday of May and November. Besides these markets held in Aberdeen, there are several mar- kets for horses and cattle, held in the close vicinity of the town, as follows : 1. At bridge of Don, on the first Tuesday of each month ; 2. at Mannofield, on the Dee side road, on the second Monday of each month ; 3. at Ruthrieston, near the Bridge of Dee, on the third Monday of each month ; 4. at Old Aberdeen) on the last Thursday of April, and on the Wednesday after the last Tuesday of October. Inns and Alehouses. — There are in Aberdeen no less than IdS inn-keepers and vintners, including six principal inns, viz. the Royal Hotel, the Union Hotel, and the Aberdeen Hotel in Union Street, the Lemon Tree, in the Huxter Row, Cruickshanks' Inn, in the School-hill, and Macdonald's Temperance Hotel in Queen Street. Pawnbrokers. — It is between twenty and thirty years since this lucrative but not commendable occupation was first introduced in- to Aberdeen, and there are now six of them established and in full occupation. The capital invested in this trade may be about L. 10,000, which is generally understood to be turned five times in the course of a year. About nine- tenths of the articles pledged are redeemed within the legal period, and, unquestionably, much occasional relief is afforded in seasons of temporary distress by their assistance, though, at the same time, it is to be feared that the greater part of their trade arises from the improvident and the dissipated. Streets. — Less than half a century ago, the only approaches to Aberdeen were, from the south and west by the Windmillbrae and the Green, and from the north by the Gallowgate, and the streets in general were inconvenient, from their narrowness and the badness of the pavement, which consisted mostly of irregular causeway or round stones. About the end of the last century, a street was opened from Broad Street to North Street, which fa- ciUtated the entrance from the north, as North Street runs along ' ABERDEEN. 103 the foot of the Port Hill, over which the Gallowgate passes. Soon after, Marischal Street was opened from Castle Street to the Quay, and it was the first street in Aberdeen that was pav- ed with dressed stones; but its steepness renders it inconve- nient. About the beginning of this century, a turnpike road having been made to Inverury, a new line of approach to the town was obtained, by opening George Street, through the middle of what had in former times been a loch or pool of stagnant water. But the grand improvement of Aberdeen in this respect was not effected until several years later, when a new approach was made from the south by the opening of Union Street, and from the nortVi by means of King Street, both of which are spacious streets, which pass right into the middle of the town, both opening into the Castle Street And it cannot be looked on as the least of the benefits which Aberdeen derived from the opening of these streets, that, in order to their formation, it was necessary to remove a considerable number of houses, which were huddled together in a manner that renders it difficult to conceive how the town could be ever free from pestilential disorders. In order to avoid the inconvenience and danger of the steep descent of the Windmill Brae, and the equally steep ascent of the Shiprow or Nether Kirk- gate, the hollow through which the Denburn flows was spanned by a magnificent bridge of three arches, one of which has a span of 132 feet, while the others (which are concealed by being built over) are of 50 feet each. Union Street, which is carried along this bridge, is also carried over two of the old streets of the town, viz. the Correction Wynd and Putachy side, * and by the opening of St Nicholas Street, which connects it with George Street, the access is rendered easy and direct from the north into the centre of the town. Pvblic Buildings. — There are a good many public buildings in Aberdeen, some of which are in no small degree ornamental to the town. To enumerate them all here would be tedious and im- proper, but it may be right to notice some of the principal. The Barrack, which stands on the Castle Hill, was erected in 1796, and is capable of accommodating 600 men. The situation is airy and healthy, and the design of the building good. * The intervening space till it reaches St Catherine's Hill, part of which was removed in opening the line^ being filled up by embankment, so that Union Street is considerably raised above the Green, which lies alongside of it. 104 ABERDEENSHIRE. Gordon's Hospital, with the additions lately made to it, forms a highly oraamental building. The Court House, which was erected in 1818, from a plan by J. Smith, Esq. is commodious ; but, from its situation, it b com- pletely hid, as is also the prison, which lies^behind it, and which was built in 1830. The County Rooms were erected in 1820, on a plan given by A. Simpson, Esq., and form one of the most striking ornaments of the principal street The North Church was planned by J. Smith, Esq., is an elegant building, and forms a very conspicuous ornament in King Street. The Lunatic Asylum and the Infirmary, both planned by A. Simpson, Esq., are exceedingly handsome buildings, especially the latter. The East Church, an elegant building in the Gothic style, was planned by A. Simpson, Esq. The Bridge in Union Street, over the valley in which the Denburn runs, is a very elegant structure, shewing a single arch whose span is 132 feet, and the height to the top of the parapet 66 feet. The Cross is an elegant octagonal structure, having a column rising from the centre surmounted by a unicorn bearing a shield, and surrounded with medalliqns of the monarchs of Scotland from James L to James VL It is remarkable as having been the work of a stone-mason, from the village of Old Rayne. The Orphan Hospital, just finished, is a handsome building, without any superfluous ornament. Marischal College is not yet finished, but is fast advancing, and when completed will be both commodious and ornamental ; but it is not well situated, being much hemmed in by the surrounding buildings. December 1839. N. B. — An account of the Universities of Aberdeen will be givem along with the General Observations on the County. ABERDEEN. *103 Addenda. — When the note on page 17 was penned, the writer had not seen Boece's Lives^of the Bishops, and at first sight a dis- crepancy seems to exist between this work and his History of Scotland, on the subject of the destruction of Aberdeen by Ed- ward. In the latter work, he says, <* Moraviam omnem incendio ferroque late prseter sacra devastate ac per Marriam rediens non minus earn populationibus afflixit Aberdoniam urbem regiam habitatore exhaustam solo aequat'* And the time of this expedi- tion, though not distinctly stated in the passage itself, is proved by previous dates given, to have been about 1336. In the latter work the statement given is as follows : *' Per id tempus, triginta naves Anglicanse in statione portui Aberdonensi proxim& jecere anchoras, unde expositse copis in terram, pene Aberdoniam prius sunt ingressae quam cives eas advenisse senserant. Angli . • complures Aberdonensium trucidant ; urbem simul atque pontificis et canonicorum aedes omni supellectili popu- latos incendunt. Arsit Aberdonia, sex dies lugubre intuentibus spectaculum. Pepercere hostes templis, pietate moti, religiosorum quoque Abbatis. • • Fuit annus quo Aberdonia funes- tam banc cladem accepit, a Christo incarnato tertius supra mille- simum tercentesimum tricesimum." While it must be admitted that one of these accounts refers to an invasion by land troops, and the other to an attack made by a naval expedition, it must be remarked, that it is exceedingly im- probable that, if they were different attacks, Boece should have only mentioned one of them in each of his works ; and by a refe- rence to Fordun, the diflSculty is in part, at least, removed, for he says, ^* totam Moraviam igne, consumens, usque Elgyn pervenit. Et progrediens inde, salvis ecclesi& et canonicorum sedificiis de Elgyn, flamm& universa devorante, villam de Abirden solo coquavit. Hac tempestate contigit piratas Angligenas de navibus suis de- scendere, et universa maritima cis fluvium de Forth usque ad montes de Hochel sine resistentia crudeliter devastare." So that while Edward came with his army from Moray, there seems to have been an attack made by English ships about the same time. Fordun, to be sure, does not state they came so far north as Aberdeen, and perhaps they did not ; and the mistake of Boece may have been in ascribing the burning of the town to them, in- stead of the army, not recollecting what he had said in his His- tory. That the town was burnt onc«, seems clear, but the evi- dence of two burnings is very doubtful. With regard to the date ABERDEEN. 104^ ABERDEENSHIRE. of this disaster, Lord Hailes, in his Annals, has traced the pro- gress of Edward's army through Scotland, and established that bis return from Moray must have been in 1336. ERRATA. Page 100, under the head ** Newspapers.** The circulation of the Aberdeen Herald here stated, bears reference to the date at which the materials ibr pr^iariiig the Account were first obtained. The circulation of that Journal fbr the two yetra and a half prerious to January 1840 amounted to 1961 per week. Under the same head, the prineiples of the Aberdeen Herald being described as " partly infidel ;*' and this being contradicted by the proprietors, the oonduetcnt of this work beg to retract the statement. PARISH OF PETERCULTER. PRE8BTTERT OF ABERDBEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JOHN STIRLING, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name* — The latter part of the name of this parish is variously written, Coulter and Culture ; in the oldest register of the pa- rish, it is uniformly rendered Culter. Some think that this word is a Gaelic compound consisting of Cul, the back, and tirijhe country ; t. e, the back country, (the parish being situated on the north side of the river Dee.) Others account for the name by what they suppose to have been the original orthography of the parish, viz. Petri CuUura. When Popery was the esta- blished religion, chapels were erected on the opposite sides of the river, and dedicated to the respective Saints Mary and Peter. To these saints were consecrated not only the chapels, but also the nearest wells, the one called St Mary's, and the other St Peter's well. At a small distance from the church there is a high steep bank called Peter's Heugh. EaLtent and Topographical Appearances. — From the east, on which it is bounded by the parishes of Banchory- Devenick and New-hills, this parish extends south-west and west nearly 7 miles. Between these extreme points, on the western boundary, it is in- dented by the parish of Drumoak ; so that its mean length does not much exceed 5 miles. It is in several places nearly 5 miles broad, its mean breadth, however, does not exceed 4 miles. Its figure is so very irregular, that it would be difficult to commute its superficial contents. It is bounded on the south by the river Dee, with the exception of the small farm of Insch, which lies beyond the river. The surface of the parish is very Aiggod and uneven. It is divided by the burns of Leuchar, Culter, and Murtle, into several distinct parts, and it has numerous slopes, and hollows, rocky hills, marshy and mossy flats interspersed. The southern division, with the exception of a small district of lOti ABERDEENSHIRE. flat haugh, rises in a gentle slope from the banks of the river, and contains the mansion-houses of Culter, Murtle, Binghill, Coun- tesswells, and Bieldside, with their respective grounds, gardens, and woods. The situations of these are most beautiful, and the exposure excellent. The farms in this district are in a high state of cultivation. There is almost no waste land. The soil is in gene- ral of a sandy early nature. In some places, there are Gelds of loam with sandy subsoil. As we retire from the river towards the centre and back of the parish, the land becomes high, hilly, rocky, and exposed, large tracts remain waste, covered with furze, broom, heath, and moss. Considerable improvements have of late years been effected, more especially towards the west, on Upper and Nether Angustown. The soil in this western division still continues of an early, thiu, sandy nature, with a bottom of gravel and rock ; but on the north- ern back district, it partakes more of moss and clay^. Climate^ Sfc. — The banks of the Dee are noted for their saliv- brity of air, and many places on them have of late years become favourable retreats for invalids during the summer season. In this parish the variation of climate is considerable. On the banks of the river the southern exposure, the thin, dry, sandy soil, the shel- ter afforded by the numerous enclosures and small plantations^-— all combine in giving effect to the rays of the sun, fn rendering the temperature high, the air most salubrious, and the climate remar- kably genial. In the garden of Murtle, beautifully situated in a sheltered den, the peach ripens every year in the open air, and the crops are as early here as in any part of the county. In the higher and back districts of the parish, the reverse is the case ; the situation is more bleak, the land in many places damp and marshy, the temperature low, and the climate propor- tionably more unfavourable ; the crops are consequently later, the snow is often deeper, and frost more intense than on the river side. On the 4th of August 1829, the river Dee (which is every sea- son subject to great and sudden floods) was flooded to an extra- ordinary degree. The haughs of Mill-timber and Murtle, in this parish, (though enclosed by embankments of extent and strength sufficient for the usual rises of the river,) were covered to the depth of many feet : the soil and growing crops were seriously damaged^ and great quantities of hay in cocks were floated away.* • Sec Sir llioroas Dick Lauder's Account of the Moray Floods. PETERCULTER. 107 Geology^ Mineralofftf^ S;c. — In many places large projecting rocks, and immense blocks of irregular, hard, irony stone are to be met with on the surface* These are considered fit for nothing but for building fences. In the south-west and west divisions, granite is found, both on the surface and in quarries. In the latter division, there is a quarry of considerable extent, from which for- merly stones were driven to Aberdeen. This trade is now discon- tinued. In the mosses, the traces and remains of forests are met with. Wood^ 8fc. — Large tracts of the parish are under wood. The late Colonel Duff of Culter, and the late Mr Gammel of Countess- wells, planted a great extent of surface on their respective estates. These plantations are very thriving, and consist chiefly of the larch and Scotch fir, to which the soil seems most congenial. Around Culter House there is a cluster of beech, chestnut, oak, ash, plane, and pine trees, — ^perhaps the oldest, largest, and most beautiful that is anywhere to be met with in this or in any of the neighbouring counties. One of the beeches measures round its trunk 14 feet, rises between 80 and 90 feet high, and spreads its branches 75 feet. A few of these trees have been lately cut down. Along the avenue to Countesswells, here is likewise a double row of remarkably fine old spruce trees. In the garden of Murile there is a line of Athenian poplars, and one of Arbor vitce worthy of notice for their unusual size ; being planted about thirty-five years ago. The old and large trees around the mansion-houses are principally hard- wood : the later and more extensive plantations consist chiefly of the fir tribes ; the former are in general remark- ably large ; the latter are very thriving and promising — so it may be concluded that the soil is well adapted for both. II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — Regular registers of the baptisms, mar- riages, and deaths are kept, the earliest of which commences in the year 1674. Proprietor's. — The parish is now held by eight proprietors. For- merly about two-thirds of it belonged to Col. R. W. Duff* of Culter. Part of the Culter estate, called Cantlaw, comprising nearly 1000 acres, is now held by the heirs of the late Mr Symmers of Cults. The remainder of this estate, (being still more than a-half of the parish,) belongs now to Mr Robert Duff, son and heir to the late Colonel R. W. Duff. The estate of Countesswells, now possessed by Mr 108 ABERDEENSHIRE. Andrew Gammel, contains considerably more than a-sixth part of the parish. The greatest share of the barony of Murtle, former- ly belonging to the town of Aberdeen, comprised the rematning sixth part. This property has been . divided into several lots or feus. That part still called Murtle has passed through several hands, and is now possessed by Mr Thurbum. The lot of Binghill belongs to Captain Kyle, — that of Bieldside to Mr Corbet, and that of Oldfold to Mr Anderson ; part of the form of Miltown of Drum lies in this parish, and belongs to Mr Irvine of Drum. Mansion Houses. — The mansion-houses of Culter and Countess- wells are large and commodious structures. The former is a very old antiquated building ; it has no date upon it, but is believed to be about 200 years old. The latter is of more modern architect ture. Neither of them is inhabited by^the proprietor. They are both occasionally let to families from Aberdeen. The house of Countesswells is presently occupied by Mr Hadden. The mansion-house of Murtle, the residence of Mr Thurbum, is of modern architecture, and of considerable elegance, in the Gre- cian style ; it stands on a commanding position, having a delightful view of the river Dee, the surrounding scenery along its banks, the more distant Grampians, including Lochnagar, &c. On the properties of Binghill and Bieldside, the present pro- prietors have built neat substantial country seats, at which they re- side. Antiquities. — The remains of the military work mentioned in the former Statistical Account of this parish are now almost en- tirely obliterated ; a small part of the dike and ditch still remains, and forms part of the fence of an adjoining field. This work is usually called in popular tradition the Norman dikes. In the for- * mer account of the parish, its erection is attributed to the Danes or to William the Norman ; but late investigations of the work have exploded this idea.* (See^ Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. i. Chap, iv. page 120.) * Colonel Shand, who was intimately acquainted with tlie fortifications of the Ro- mans north of the firths, examined this camp in 1801, and came to the conclurioo, that the profiles, and other dimensions of the ditch and ramparts are the same as those of the camps of Ury battle dikes, and the other camps in Strathmore. This work has since been examined by Mr Irvine of Drum, Captain Henderson of the 29th Regiment, and Professor Stewart, who agree in thinking it to be s Ro« man camp. It is of an oblong rectangular form, 938 yards long, and 543 yards broed» comprehending an area of 48 Scotch acres. It stood on the north side of the river Dee, on the south-west comer of the parish, on a high ground of moderate elemtion,oppo« site to several fords of the river, which, no doubt, it was intended to cover. It is supposed to have been erected by Lollius Urbicus, in one of his marches Dorth- wards. PETERCDLTER. 109 In one of the plantations on Binghill, there is a Druid's tem- ple enclosed with a common stone dike ; and near to it there* is a large tumulus, which is said to have been once the burying-place of the family of Drum, a property in a neighbouring parish, where the descendants of that family now reside. III. — Population. In the year 1755, the population of the parish was 755 1798, . - - - 1002 1811, - - . . 1010 1821, .... 1096 1831, males, 593 ; females, 630 . 12*23 The increase of the paper manufactory, to be afterwards men- tioned, having attracted to it 60 work people with their families, may account in part for this small increase in population. Other local causes are likewise assignable, such as the reclaiming of waste lands, &C. The yearly average of births for the last 7 years is about * 30 deaths, ... - 13 marriages, - . . 11 Average number of persons under 15 years of age is - 403 between 15 and 30 - 352 30 and 50 . 263 50 and 70 - 156 above 70 . 49 Nuitiber of familiea in the parish in 1831 was, • 255 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 118 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 61 inhabited houses, • •> - . 245 uninhabited houses, ... 7 IV.— Industry. Agriculture. — Though it is impossible to estimate exactly (owing to the want of recent measurements and plans of the various estates,) the number of acres of cultivated and uncultivated sur- face in the parish, as well as the number under wood, yet the following statement has been prepared with considerable care, and may be taken as near the truth : Number of acres cultivated, - - 5686 Imperial. uncultivated, . > 2404 under wood, planted, • 1600 Rent. — The rent of land varies very much from 15s. to L.3 per Scotch acre, the average may be from L. 1 to L. 1, 15s. per Scotch acre. The average rent of grazing a full-grown ox or cow and keep during the year is about Li 6. Live-stock. — The common breed of black-cattle is a cross of the Aberdeenshire with the polled Angus and Galloway breeds. 110 ABERDEENSHIRE. There are no sheep, with the exception of a few of the Englisb breeds kept for domestic use, chiefly on account of their wooL Husbandry, — The system of husbandry pursued in the lower parts of the parish is a five years, and in the higher parts a seven years rotation. The crops raised are oats, barley, hay, turnips, and potatoes* There is very little wheat raised, the soil being in general too thin. It has, however, of late years been cultivated at Murtle with suo cess after ley. The breadth of turnips, for which the soil is well adapted, has been increasing every year since the introduction of bone dust as a manure. A great deal of waste land has been brought under cultivation within these last twenty years, and improvements are still making in trenching, ditching, and draining low-lying land — a consider^ able breadth of which is still susceptible of being reclaimed. The leases are of nineteen years' duration ; in some cases tbey are granted for twenty-seven years, when waste land is required to be improved during the lease. Farm-buildings are in general substantially built of stone and lime, and belong exclusively to the proprietors, being held by the tenants on dead inventory. The cottages are neat and comfort- able ; and the fields are inclosed with stone fences. Fisheries. — The salmon-fisheries on the Dee, since the intro- duction of the stake-nets at the mouth of the river, have greatly di- minished in value, barely remunerating the labours of the fisher- men, though formerly they yielded a considerable rent to the pro- prietors. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be as follows : 1895 acres of oats and b.irley, at L.5, 10s. per acre, imperial, . L. 10,422 10 948 ditto turnips and potatoes, at L. 7 per acre, . . 6636 948 do. hiy, at L. 4 per acre, .... 8792 1895 do. pasture, at L. 1, 10s. per acre, . 2842 10 Toul amount, . L. 23,693 Manufactures. — The manufactories in the parish are three in number. Ist. On the burn of Culter, near its junction with the river Dee, is situated a snufT-manufactory, belonging to William M'Combie, Esq. of Easter Skene. It is a small low square thatched building. The internal machinery is driven by a water-wheel of PETERCULTEU. Ill eight horse power. About three hundred weight of snuff are ground per week. The services of only one man are required. 2d. Several hundred yards farther up the burn-side is situated the large'paper manu&ctory of Messrs Arbuthnott and M'Combie, who purchased it about two years ago. This establishment was the first of the kind in the north, being begun in 1751 on comparatively a small scale, and has ever since been in ac- tive operation. The present proprietors entered with it in 1821. They have very materially enlarged the work, and ad- ded the new improvements in their branch of manufacture, so that, in proportion to its extent, which is not exceeded in many instances in Scotland, it is not inferior to any for the same pur- poses. It consists of a large chaste pile of the necessary build- ings, in excellen repair; its internal machinery is of the most approved modern description. The necessary movements in the machinery are produced by two large powerful water-wheels — the one placed a little above the other — and both turned by the same stream, brought from an artificial reservoir by a wooden aqueduct The papers made at this work are browns, cartridges, and all sorts of wrapping papers, &c It yields a large revenue to Go- vernment, and gives employment to upwards of 60 people, whose comforts are in every respect attended to, and in general they ap- pear sensible of this. This mill is beautifully situated on a flat haugh of several acres, surrounded on the west, north-west, and north, by a very steep hill, the front of which seems to consist of the segments of different circles ; the steep appears almost per- pendicular ; it is in some places nearly 400 feet high, and is co- vered with young wood. On the east and south the ground is not so high. There are large projecting rocks or cnigs on each side of the bum, both above and below the flat where the mill stands, at both of which places there is a bridge thrown across between the opposite rocks — the one on the old, the other on the new line of road to Aberdeen. The reservoir contains one of the largest artificially collected bodies of water any where to be met with. It is confined in the den above the bridge by a large dike at its mouth, between its opposing rocky sides. When full, it is nearly 20 feet deep, and extends in length nearly half a mile. Above the surface of the water the braes are steep and inaccessible, (except by artificial walks,) and are covered with wood. When the burn is flooded, and the water runs over the top of the dike, the cascade down its front is beautiful. The aqueduct from this reservoir to the mill 112 ABERDEENSHIRE. wheel is a work of considerable extent, and deserves notice. It is composed of wood, is 700 feet long, 7 feet wide, and 2 feet deep, and is supported on stone pillars neatly built, with iron and wooden pillars between. It passes below the bridge crossing the burn, about 10 feet above its surface, and conveys a large body of water. The beauty of the situation and scenery of this establishment is much admired. The extent of artificial works, the large pile of buildings on the left;, the spacious reservoir on the right, with an occasional cascade over its dike; the aqueduct, supported in the air, with its large column of rolling water passing under the spa- cious bridge, with the surrounding rocks and woods, — all at this point burst upon the eye of the traveller, and present to his view a combination of the beauties of nature and the works of art in a variety and to an extent seldom if ever to be met with in so nar- row a compass. Sd^ Nearly a mile farther up the hollow, on the burn of Leuchar, in 1831, a mill was erected for carding and spinning wool, and for manufacturing coarse woollen cloth. This establishment is in- creasing. It at present gives employment to 16 persons. V. — Parochial Economy. ilfarA^-TmiTn.*— Our nearest market and post-town is Aberdeen. Means of Communication. — The Dee side turnpike, one of the best public roads in the north, runs through the southern dbtrict of the parish nearly four miles. The mail-coach to and from Aberdeen and the Castletown of Braemar passes daily, with one other public coach, which runs between Aberdeen and Banchory in summer. These are principally employed by visitors from Aber- deen to the various favourite residences on Dee side, more especially to Ballater, near to which place are the famous wells of Pannanicb. The Skene turnpike runs through the back part of the parish about a mile. The cross accommodation roads are sufficiently good. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was built in 1779: it contains 550 sittings ; is a neat substantial building, in a thorough state of repair ; is situated on the bank of the river, near the middle of the southern boundary of the parish ; and is very well attended. The manse is 150 years old, and has undergone considerable re- pairs and alterations. In 1826, an addition of two rooms was made to it, which makes it sufficiently comfortable and commodi- ous. The offices are old and thatched, but in an ordinary state of repair. The glebe, including the garden and the stance of PETERCULTER. 113 manse and offices, contains the legal number of acres, along with nearly an acre of pasture. The stipend by the last augmentation in 1812 is in meal, 54 bolls, 2 firlots, 2^ lippies; in bear, 51 bolls, 3 firlots ; and in money, L. 1 19, 8s. 2d. All the people are of the Established Church, with the exception of five families. The average number of communicants in the Established Church is 500. £eptfbrd Quay-wall ; West India Docks ; and Sheerness Docks. Stones from the same quarry^ were formed into pillars for the groins of the London Custom House, and were drened for the long steps and coping of St Catherine's Docks ; and for the most prominent ports of the new Bridge of Don. They were likewise used in build- ing the new London Bridge, and from the same place was that fine block of granite selected which encloses certain urns and other memorials of the present age, and forms the foundation stone of that magnificent structure. In these quarries also a few specimens of dolomite have been found. 122 ABERDEENSHIRE. as well as the general prosperity of the district, amply prove the benefits resulting from personal residence of proprietors.* Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence with August 1645, and are regularly kept up to January 1676, with the exception of eight months previous to December 1646. Af- ter 1676 there is a hiatus of fifty years. From January 1726, they are regularly kept up to the present time. From the most ancient of these records, a considerable amount of information might be obtained in reference to the then existing state of society. Indeed, the facts which they contain render it highly probable, that a collation of such session records (commencing with a. d. 1638,) as are still preserved throughout the kingdom, would ma- terially tend to illustrate a most important portion of our ecclesi- astical history, which at present chiefly depends for its authority on the conflicting narratives of persons whom we know to have been avowed partizans of opposite and inveterate factions. Antiquities, — On a gentle acclivity at the south side of l^ne- bagger, and commanding a beautiful view of the sea-coast and ad- jacent lowlands, is found a Druidical temple, formed by ten rough granite stones, arranged in the figure of a circle. They are about eight feet distant from each other, the highest of them measuring ten, the lowest five feet above the surface of the ground. One of these stones, fronting due south, is of much greater breadth and depth than the others, and now appears crushing through the low and decayed pediment on which it had been originally raised. Probably it was the site of an altar, or station of the presiding priest In the church-yard, and forming a part of its wall, stands a large oblong stone curiously carved. Some have believed it to be a Runic monument, but the cross (which can still be distinctly traced,) pervading that mass of varied sculpture with which it is inscribed, seems to render this suggestion inadmissible. In all probability it must have constituted an ornament of some former church, subsisting during the times of Catholicism. The Gouch or Gouk Stone is a large shapeless block of gra- nite, on the north-east of Caskieben, erected (as is said in the last Statistical Account,) to commemorate the death of a general of that name who was slain near it. The tradition in respect to this stone is now forgotten, and it was even with some little diffi- culty that its site could be ascertained. The Quaich Stone^ built into a low wall near the same place, has no particular marks * See note to Mit>celIancous ObserTations. DYCE. 1 23 by which it might be distinguished, and the origin of its name is entirely unknown. , There are tumuli in various places throughout the parish^ usu- ally on small eminences* Bones have been found in some of them, (inclosed in urns of pipe-clay, nearly resembling common flower- pots in shape,) but no tradition has retained a single trace of their history. III. — Population. From the records of baptisms, marriages, and burials for some time subsequent to 1646, it would appear that the population of Dyce then must have been not less numerous than at the present day, and double its amount when the last Statistical Account was published, 150 years afterwards. This curious fact cannot be as- signed to any merely accidental or temporary cause, since these records, for nearly twenty yeara in the seventeenth century, are preserved ; during which time there does not appear any one year to have been a material diminution of the births and marriages. The burials are not quite so accurately recorded. From the li- mited number of places where births and marriages are mentioned as having occurred, there seems some reason to conjecture that se- veral small villages had then existed in the parish. Probably these villages were mostly in the neighbourhood of farm-buildings, where the servants and others resided for the sake of convenience and mutual protection. This would account for farm-steadings being always called ^* towns" in this dbtrict of Scotland. Some of them, as Kirkton, Bedlieston, &c. still retain the syllable in their pro- per names, after every vestige of a " town'* in their neighbourhood has disappeared. After the year 1677, there are no data by which we could form even a probable conjecture as to the population of this parish, till the return made to Dr Webster, 1755, which gives it at that time 383. By the last Statistical Account, 1795, we And the population still on the decrease, being then stated at 352, at which time, however, it would appear to have sunk to its minimum, having since rapidly and steadily increased, till, in 1831, it had reached 620. During the last ten years, however, it may be re- marked, that the population in this parish has been perpetually fluctuating, in proportion to the demand for quarriers. It has not been uncommon to find an increase or diminution of 50 or 60 in the course of a few weeks. The permanent population, which ap- pears to have steadily increased (as has been mentioned) up to 1831, (when it probably amounted to something more than 500,) may now be considered as diminishing. This is chiefly owing to 124 ABEllDEKNSllIKE. the gradual removal of crofters from the more highly cultivated portions of the parish, either to Aberdeen, where they are employ- ed by the manufacturers, or to some other country district, the barren patches which these persons have improved being (as their leases expire) incorporated with the adjoining forms. There are no towns or villages in the parish. Population by census 1831, . 620 Yearly average of births seven years prior to 1831» 12 deaths, .... 9 marriages, .6 Average number of persons, by census 1831, under 15 years of age, ' 252 betwixt 15 and 30, 151 30 and 50, . 144 50 and 70, . 54 upwards of 70, 19 bachelors above 50, . • . 8 widowers, do. .... 7 unmarried women above 45, . • 7 Number of families in the parish in 1831, . . . 112 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 63 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 19 Number of illegitimate births in the parish within the last three years, 2. . By a very accurate census taken in 1833, the population of this parish was found to have decreased to 485 persons, chiefly in con« sequence of the proprietors having ceased working the quarries. Of these, 178 were under fifteen years of age. By a census taken in 1839, the population was found farther decreased to 416.} Character of the People. — The people, in general, possess a great degree of sound sense, and perhaps even something of that sarcas- tic shrewdness which has sometimes been ascribed as a characteristic to the natives of Aberdeenshire. At the same time, they rarely in- terfere with subjects unconnected with their own private interests and domestic duties. That they are a religious people is most satisfactorily ascertain- ed by the moral respectability of their private conduct. Crimes cognizable by the civil authorities are unknown. Drunkenness is rare. Charges of bastardy may at present be averaged at three in about two years, and these are not unusually cases of relapse on the part of the females, — a striking contrast to former times. Dur- ing the short space of eleven weeks at the end of the year 1645, (about the very date which some hfve been pleased to esteem the golden era of Scotland's religious history,) we find from the parish records more crimes of a licentious character, occasionally accom- panied by heavy aggravations, charged before the kirk-session, and admitted by the parties, than have occurred during the last three years I The contrast is little less striking when we compare the DYCE. 1 25 state of crime at the present time with that in any other portion of our parish history during thecourseof the seventeenth century. The superstitions which, from the same authority, we find to have then infected both clergy and people, are now generally ridiculed. If any trace of superstition still remain, it is rather practical than speculative, as in observing festival days, or concealing a child's name until the baptism, and seems rather the result of habit than of any religious prepossession* Poaching in game prevails to a considerable extent, but much more among quarriers and manufacturers than the permanent inha<- bitants of the district There is no poaching on the salmon-fish- eries, which in this parish are of very little value. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There are 2910 acres, standard imperial measure, of cultivated land in the parish ; 581 acres of waste land, of which perhaps 237 or thereby might, with a profitable application of ca- pital, be added to the cultivated land. There are 1176 acres un- der wood, amounting to rather more than a third of the whole pa- rish. Indeed, the hill of Tyrebagger, (with the exception o( a narrow rim round its edge,) is unfit for any other purpose. The plantations are wholly Scotch fir and larch. In some places they are thriving ; but on the extensive level forming the top of the hilt, they have hitherto made but little progress, chiefly in conse- quence of the poverty of the soil, and their exposure to the sea blast. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1 Ster- ling per imperial acre. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 2,' 10s. Sterling per ox or cow, grazed during the summer season. Turnips during winter amount to about the same sum. Wages and Rates of Labour. — Ploughmen get about L. 10 per annum; women from L. 2 to L. 4; day-labourers, with victuals, from lOd. to Is.; harvest men from L. ], 10s. to L.2, 5s.; har- vest women from L.1, 5s. to L. 15s. ; carpenters and masons from Is. dd. to Is. 6d. per day, with victuals; a smith receives for all the iron-work on a farm of two horse labour (price of iron include ed) L. 4, 10s. Sterling per annum. Smiths are never employed here by the day. Prices. — A double horse cart costs from L. 8 to L. 10 Sterling ; plough for two horses L.2, 10s. to L. 3 Sterling; harrows 1 2s. each; mason-work from L. 1, 5s. to L.2 per rood; best park timber from 8d. to lOd. per cubic foot. 126 ABERDEENSHIRE. Husbandry. — Thirty years ago there were several flocks of sheep in the parish, although there are now only a few kept by private &niiiies for home consumption. This change is to be attributed partly to the extent of land which has of late years been reclaimed from waste and pasture, and partly to the multiplication of planta- tions and enclosures. It is the general opinion, that the old Aberdeenshire breed of cattle is best adapted for a greater pro- portion of the soils in this parish. Some have occasionally tried the short- horned, but it seems now universally admitted that these can only be profitable on land of superior quality, and in a high state of cultivation. From a fashion of crossing these breeds, which now extensively prevails, there is some reason to dread that the pure Aberdeenshire will gradually diminish, or even may wholly disappear. Should this really occur, it is the opinion of some superior judges, that (considering the quality of a large pro- portion of the soil) a most serious blow would be given to the pros- perity of agriculture in this county. It appears, at any rate, a subject worthy the attention of land-owners and agricultural asso- ciations, were it only from the great respectability and skill of the individuals with whom, in this district, the above opinion is under- stood to have originated. The usual system of cropping is by a rotation of five, six, and seven years, viz. for a five-shift, grain after lea ; turnips ;* bear and sometimes oats laid down with clover and rye grass; hay or pasture ; pasture. For a six years shift, the same, with an addi- tional year of pasture. For a seven years shift, two grain crops before turnips ; in other respects the same as the former. The greater proportion of land in this parish is best adapted for a rota- tion of six years instead of five, (which is by far the most common system,) although the farmers, in general, cannot afford, under the present depressed prices, to sacrifice a direct and immediate profit for the sake of a probable ultimate advantage. Leases. — The usual duration of leases is nineteen vears. On an improving farm, however, this term is by much too short The tenant can have no sufiicient time to recover his capital and the in- terest sunk upon it, still less to gain a fair remuneration for his * It is a singular fact that turnips are, every rotation, uiminislung in size on rich old infield land, scarcely equalling those raised on land newly reclaimed. Tuntips raised on land long cultivated have also, since 1819, been frequently visited by mil- dew in this county, although (notwith'itanding that the le«\vcs all wither and foU off) without any appearance of an evil result, The writer takes this opportunity of acknowledging the able assistance of his parishioner, Mr Hcrvey of Bedlieston, in drawing up these statistics of Husbandry. .3 DYCE. 1-27 risk and labour. On an impro?ed farm (especially where the soil is of unequal quality) leases should be granted not arbitrarily, but to correspond with a suitable rotation of cropping. Farm^Buildings. — The farm houses are in general substantial, and several on the estates of Caskieben and Dyce are built in a very ornamental style, usually that of the cottage orn^e. The steadings attached to these are very complete, arranged in the figure of a square, slated, and with thrashing-mills attached. Most of the &rms in this parish are inclosed, and several of them thorough- ly and substantially, with stone walls four feet high. The expense of these inclosures is from 4d. to 6d. an ell, excluding the mate- rials. At the same time, there are considerable exceptions to these favourable statements. In some parts of the parish farm-buildings and inclosures are very indifferent, in a few instances, even little less wretched than they are in general found commodious and substan- tial. It need hardly be mentioned, that the latter description ap- plies chiefly to small farms where the soil is of very inferior qua- lity. It is only fair to add, that even in these cases there seems at present a decided tendency towards improvement. Improvements. — Little, comparatively speaking, remains to be done in the way of reclaiming waste land. During the last twenty years, six or seven hundred acres of barren soil have been improved. On the north and west all that can be done has already been ac- complished, and if the extensive improvements now in progress through other parts of the parish be carried into effect with the same energy and perseverance as they have hitherto been pursued, all the barren land which has the smallest chance of being culti- vated with success will be reclaimed in the course of a very few years. Mr Hervey, who holds the farm of Bedlieston from William Gordon, C. S., Esq. has raised a very extensive embankment for the protection of his valuable haugh land against the inundations of the river Don. It has hitherto proved effectual, with the excep- tion of a few cases when the river has risen to a very unusual ex- tent, as in August 1829.* There are no obstacles to improvement in any way peculiar to this parish. The low price of grain, high rents, short leases, bad roads, and incessant agitation of the corn laws, are of course severely felt here as in other places. The pay- ment of miln multures, which seems to have been considered a se- * Withiii the last three years, howerer, several of these high floods have occurred. There can be no doubt this is owing to the multiplication of drains. As both spring and surface draining is still continuing to progress, it will probably soon become ne- cessary to throw a great proportion of haugh land permanently into grass. 128 ABERDEENSHIRE. rious grievance when the former Statistical Account was written, is. now falling gradually into disuse. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish on an average of the last seven years, so &r as it can be ascertained, is as follows: — Oat8,d968bolls,atL. 1,0s. 6(L per boll, . . L.4067 4 Bear, with fodder, 654 bolls, at L. 1, 4s. . . . 784 16 Turnips, 269 acres, at L. 4, lOs. per acre, . 1210 10 Potatoes, 44 acres, at L. 9 per acre, . . . 396 Hay, 24,000 stones, at 6d. per stone, 600 Pasture, 786 acres, ISs. per acre, . . . 707 8 L.7765 18 The value of the quarries cannot be ascertained. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — Aberdeen, distant from six to eight miles, is the nearest market-town. Means of Communication. — The turnpike from Aberdeen to In- verness, or great north road, forms the boundary of the parish on the west for a distance of two miles. The turnpike from Aber-* deen to Banff crosses it near the other extremity, where it is scarce- ly a mile in breadth.* The canal from Aberdeen to Inverury also passes through this parish. This canal is believed to be a very in- different speculation in respect to profit, but is found exceedingly convenient by those living near it, for the conveyance of coals and lime at a reasonable rate. Passage boats also ply from Aber- deen to Inverury twice a- day during the summer. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated at the northern ex- tremity of the parish, .on a rocky promontory formed by a winding of the river Don, and commanding a view of the rich valley of that river for upwards of twenty miles, until its course be lost among the range of hills that rise in the Highland district of Al- ford. It is an ancient building, and from its iron cross still left on the east end, and its carved stone work on the gables, we may sup- pose it to have been built a considerable time prior to the Refor- mation. It has frequently been altered and repaired, but is still in a very insufficient state, and hardly adequate for the accommo- dation of the increased population of the parish. The manse and offices were rebuilt about ten years ago, and the * Tha Bridge of Dyce, on the road from Aberdeen to Banff, was erected by Mr Bum of Haddington. It is a wooden arch, of above 100 feet span, resting upon two abutments or land-breasts of good masonry. The framing, as seen in the intradoc of the arch, display sound judgment, united to great mechanical skill. The architect (it may be remarked) preferred for the workmanship of this bridge, the natural wood of Braemar, in this county, to Baltic timber. Its light and elegant outline adda greatly to the effect of the fine river scenery. DYCE. 129 work was executed in a very substantial manner. The glebe mea- sures a little more than 5 acres, and may be of the yearly value of L. 10 Sterling. The teinds amount to L. 1 13 Sterling per annum, and the ba- lance of stipend is supplied from the Exchequer allowance. Notwithstanding the nearness of this parish to Aberdeen, by which it is placed completely within its vortex of agitation, not a single Seceder is to be found in it, and only three Dissenters of any description, — one femalo who is a Roman Catholic, and an aged pair who are Episcopalians, but occasionally attend the pa- rish church. The average number of communicants is 230. The average amount of church collections ibr all purposes is about L. 32. Education. — The parochial is the only school in the parish. The branches there taught are, reading, writing, English gram- mar, arithmetic, and Latin. All the pupils are daily examined on the principles of religious truth. The schoolmaster's salary is L. 26 Sterling, and the school-fees average about L. 8 Sterling per annum. The schoolmasters of this district are, however, now receiving a large addition to their salaries from a fund left for that purpose by the late Mr Dick, a gentleman from Morayshire. The school-fees are, reading, 2s. ; reading and writing, 2s. 6d. ; reading, writing, and arithmetic, 3s. ; mathematics, 6s. ; Latin, 4s. per quarter; they are, on the whole, regularly paid. The people in general are fully alive to the benefits of edu- cation, and there are extremely few in this parish who cannot read, and do not avail themselves of the opportunities they enjoy for educating their families. The west and north-west districts of the4)arish are from three to four miles distant from school. Va- rious attempts have been made to remedy this inconvenience, but hitherto unsuccessfully. The population of these districts is very considerable. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 16. The average sum allotted to each is Is. 2d. per week, or L. 3, Is. lid. per annum. Annual amount of contributions for the poor : Collections, L. 29, 19s. 3d. ; interest of money, L. 6 ; Wilson's mortification for aged females, L. 7, 2s. ; legacies, donations, &c. L. 7 ; total, L. 50, Is. 3d. The above is the whole sum annually distributed, although there is little probability of its continuing adequate to meet the demands of an increasing number of claimants. Until ABERDEEN. I 130 ABERDEENSHIRE* lately, there has ever been a marked reluctance amongst the poor to apply for sessional relief, but it is to be regretted that this feel- ing is in some instances beginning to diminish. The causes of this change, although extremely important, and sufficiently ob* vious, are too multiplied, and too much involved in the general history of the country to admit of being detailed here. We may only remark in general, from consequences already observable to a limited extent, that, if this honourable feeling of independence among the poorer classes continue to decrease or altogether dis- appear, a legal assessment (so much dreaded by some) will be one of the most trivial evils to be apprehended. Inns, — There is only one inn in the parish, which, lying on the high road, is chiefly frequented by strangers. Fuel, — iCoals are almost the only fuel used. The poorest class occasionally use broom and whin bushes for fuel during the winter. The price of English coals in Aberdeen varies from 3s. 2d. to 4s. 6d. per boll, a third larger than the imperial boll. They may be conveyed to this parish by a canal boat, for 7d. or 8d. ad- ditional. Miscellaneous Observations. Nearly a third of the whole arable land in the parish has been reclaimed within the last thirty years, so that, making allowance for the difficulties to be encountered from poverty of soil and other causes, there are few parishes within the county which can rival Dyce in the extent of improvement which has taken place since the last Statistical Account was pubhshed. The estate of Cas- kieben rented at that time L. 212, it is now worth L. 1000 per annum. Dyce rented L. 850, it is now worth nearly L. 1100 per annum, and the extensive improvements still in progress on this estate must, in a few years, greatly enhance its value.* Upwards of three-fourths of the wood in this parish has been planted with- in the last twelve years. * These improvements have been, in a great measure* suspended (since the aboTe tras written,) in consequence of the lamented death of Mr Gordon of Pitlurg. the proprietor. His heir being a minor, many years must elapse before the result anti- cipated in the above passage is ever likely to be realized. So uncertain are (what appear to be) the best founded expectations of human beings! January 1840. PARISH OF UDNY. PRESBYTBRY OF BLLON, SYNOD OF ABERDKEN. THE REV. JOHN LESLIE, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Udny derives its name from a family, which, for many centuries, has possessed the barony of Udny, on which the kirk stands. The etymology of Udny is not known. It was erected into a parish by act of Parliament, passed 19th December 1597, entitled " Ratification— Ane Act anent Christ's Kirk of Udny" being separated from the parishes of Ellon, Tarves, Logie Buchan, and Foveran. The lands taken from Ellon and Logie Buchan still pay small sums out of the teinds of these lands to the ministers of Ellon and Logie Buchan. Extent and Boundaries^ 8fc, — The parish is almost circular, ex- cept on the north-east, where it juts out to a considerable extent. It is supposed to contain about 16 square miles. It is situated in the district of Aberdeenshire called Formartin, and is bounded on the north and north-west, by Tarves ; on the west, by Bour- tie ; on the south-west, by Keithhall ; on the south, by New Machar and Fintray ; on the south-east, by Belhelvie ; on the east, by Foveran ; and on the north-east, by Logie Buchan and Ellon. Three small streams run from west to east till they terminate in the river Ythan, about six miles distant. Two of these streams bound the parish, — the one on the south, the other on the north. Abundance of granite, and a vein of limestone, runs from south- west to north-east in a zig-zag direction. In many places the vein is covered with a stratum of grayish slate, and the lime-rock is all more or less mixed with the slate, which injures the quality of the lime. Lime-works have frequently been started ; but are never work- ed to any extent, as the water breaking in upon the quarry, and the inferior quality of the lime, render them a losing concern. The soil is for the most part loam, on a bottom of granite, and sometimes on clay. The granite bottom is under the best soil. 132 ABERDEENSHIRE. II. — Civil History. Proprietors, — These are, Earl of Aberdeen, Sir William C. Seton of Pitmedden, and Colonel Udny of Udny. The rest of the pa- rish is divided among eight heritors and three bodies corporate. Registers. — A baptism and money register were begun about the year 1720, but have been very irregularly kept, especially the former. Mansion-Houses. — In 1819, a neat mansion-house was built of granite, on the estate of Pittrichie, then the property of James W. Mackenzie, Esq. The property now belongs to Alexander Milne, Esq. On the barony of Udny is a Castle, supposed, from its shape^ to have been built about the end of the thirteenth, or beginning of the fourteenth century. Its dimensions are, length outside 46 feet; inside 28 feet; breadth outside 85 feet; inside 17 feet; height 71 feet. The walls are thick enough to admit of bed-closets within them. The two under-stories are vaulted, the upper one of which contains a spacious hall, the whole length and breadth of the castle. It is neatly floored, or rather pavemented, with oblong hexagonal granites, very neatly joined. Its height to the top of the arch is about 20 feet. An attempt was made in 1801 to modernize the castle ; but the undertaker of the work having failed in circumstances, it remains in an unfinished state. The castle is said to have been the work of three successive proprietors, who all lived the ordinary period of life. One built the two under-stories, or the vaulted work, the next completed the walls, and the third put on the roof. It is re- ported that all the three were nearly ruined by it. This is not to be wondered at, when we consider that they had only the barony of Udny, not 400 Scots acres in extent ; and at that time there could not be more than 60 acres in cultivation. The present proprietor has extensive estates in this parish, likewise in Ellon and Foveran. At Tillygreig, the seat of Arthur Harvey, Esq. is a small maiif sion, suited to the estate, which rents about L. 500. It is about to be repaired and enlarged. At Pitmedden are two mansions, both in ruins. III. — Population. The i>opulation in 1801, was 1242 1811, 1210 1821, 1328 1831, 1309 UDNY. 133 Number of fiunilies iti the pariah in 1831, 263 chiefly employed in agriculture, 192 trade, manufiiotures, or bandieraftf 29 Numher of persons under 15 years of age, . 254 betwiit 15 and 30, . .530 30 and 50, . 350 50 and 70, . . 176 upwards of 70, . . 17 There are 8 proprietors of land in the parish having above L. 50 of yearly rent, but none of them resident There are 2 insane, and 2 fatuous persons in the parish. Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 12., IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Acres in cultiradon, about . 7500 not susceptible of cultivation, . 400 susceptible of cultivation but not cultivated, . 150 About 60 acres may be supposed to fall to Hillbrae, In the parish of Udny, of an undivided common between Udny, Belhelvie, and Foveran, called Faichside. About 270 acres are plapted, chiefly with fir. About ninety years ago, Mains of Udny, being the lands about Udny Castle, were tjistefully laid out in square fields, averaging about 16 acres, and divided by lanes, all planted with four rows of beech and elm, and a hawthorn hedge next the fields. The hedges are all decayed, and the two inner rows of trees were cut down about forty years ago. The outer rows have attained a considerable size, and give the place, at a distance, the appearance of a close wood, and the castle appears to advantage in the centre. J3«n/.— The rent of land is a trifle under L.1 Sterling an impe- rial acre. lAvt-Stock. — Much attention has been paid of late to the im- provement of cattle, by importing breeds from Kirkcudbright and Durham; but the Aberdeenshire breed, mostly black without horns, suit the country best, as they thrive upon inferior keep. Rearing cattle is more advantageous tt\an raising grain. Draining. — Though much has been done by draining, yet no branch of improvement has been less attended to. The drains are seldom cut deep enough. This is principally owing to the open ditches, or water tracks, not being cut to a sufiicient depth to admit the water from the drains on either side of the ditch. Seldom are either the ditches or drains cut deeper than three feet, or three feet and a half, whereas the ditches should never be less than seven feet, and the drains about five feet and a half deep. 134 ABERDEENSHIRE. Leases.-^heases are generally for nineteen years— by far too short a period upon unimproved farms. Most of the land is entailed, and the proprietors are restricted from giving leases for more than nineteen years, and also from giv- ing more than one year's rent at the end of the lease, for houses, fences, drains, &c. in short, for all improvements. These restric- tions were long acted up to by the proprietors, but have been as much as possible departed from by them for several years; and many of them, at their own risk and expense, give great encouragement to industrious tenants. There is an emulation, in most cases, be- tween the proprietor and his tenants, whether the former shall be the more liberal, or the latter the more industrious. The result has been, that the rental of the parish, about forty years ago little more than L. 2000, is now above L. 7000, and the farmers' capi- tal has increased more in proportion than the rent. The valued rent of the parish is L. 5831 Scots, divided as follows :^ Udny, 'possessed by Colonel' John Robert Udny Fullerton, . L. 813 12 Knapern, Earl of Aberdeen, . . 628 5 10 Part of PiUrichie, Do. .... 85718 3^ Fart of Pittrichie, Alexander Milne, Alexander Duncan, Alexander Johnston, and the kiik-session of Meldrunii— their proportions not known, ..... 492 1 8^ Drumbreck, the President and Governors of Robert Gordon*s Hospi- tal, Aberdeen, ... . 564 Orchardtown, Do. .... 613 13 4 Pitmedden, Sir William Conte Seton. Bart. . 621 O Balnakettle, King^s College, Aberdeen, . . 200 Tillyeve, Do. Bursary land, mortified by an Earl of Findlater, who was Chancellor of King's College, Aberdeen, • . 266 18 4 Tillycorthie, George Angus, . . 120 Hillbrae, John Thorn, Advocate in Aberdeen, • 65 8 Tillygreig, Heirs of John Harvey of Kinnettles, • 371 14 2 Slagmagally, Alexander Thomson of Banchory, 50 Torrylcith, Mrs Ramsay of Barra, . . 166 13 4 L.5831 Quarries. — There are granite and limestone, both worked with iron levers and hammers, and the rock occasionally burst with powder. Average amount of Raw Produce: — Grain.— About 10,500 quarters of oats, and 400 quarters of bear ; of which about 2000 quarters are consumed in seed, and about 3000 quarters in meal, malt, barley, in corn to horses and poultry, leaving 6000 to be disposed of at L.l per quarter, . • . L. 6000 O 140 tons of beef, at L. 4^ a ton, annually sold, 6160 Considerable quantities of potatoes and turnips are raised, as nearly one-sixth of the arable land is annually in crops of these ; the extent of turnip land to that of potatoe land being as 7 to 1 . Little or none is sold. Cattle are fed with the turnips, and the potatoes are consumed with men, horses, a few swine and poultry. Little cultivated and no meadow hay, is raised, as the land pays better in pasture. Very few sheep are kept What are kept is of the large kind, and weigh from 64 to 80 pounds. 3 UDNY. 135 Ad ox of 7 cvt. costs L. 2, 10b. for grazing. About 25 tons of butter sold annually, at L. 60 per ton, L.1500 16 tons of cheese L.28 — . 448 £ggs» at 4d. per dozen, . . . 182 L. 14,290 Formerly, a considerable sumVas realized annually for poultry. Now, the fi^mers can afford to use all their poultry themselves, and none is sold but by the cottars and tenants on small possessions. The butter and cheese, especially the former, made in this pa- rish, are considered of superior quality. This is owing to most of the land being on an open or rocky bottom, producing fine grass. The land is managed generally under a six or seven shift. In the former case, which only answers with the better land, one-half of the farm is under grain, one-third under grass, and one-sixth under tur- nips and potatoes. There is little clay land in the parish, and con- sequently little fallow. All the farmers have small gardens for rais- ing vegetables for their families. In many of them are raised gooseberries and currants, and a few apples. At Pitmedden, the seat of Sir William C. Seton, is one of the finest and best laid out gardens in the north of Scotland. It was made at a great expense, about the middle of the seventeenth century, and produces apples and pears, especially the former, superior to any in Scotland. V. — PAttocHiAL Economy. Means of Communication, — A post-office was established in the centre of the parish about three years ago, by the influence of the Earl of Aberdeen, who does everything his Lordship can for the good of the country. There is a daily post from Aberdeen. A turnpike from Aberdeen leading north, and another from New- burgh, the nearest port, distant seven miles, leading west, cross each other in the centre of the parish. The line of turnpike be- tween Aberdeen and Meldrum passes through the west part of the parish, nearly parallel with the road from Aberdeen through the centre of the parish. A public coach passes and repasses daily on both the turnpikes from Aberdeen. All the streams which public roads cross have excellent stone bridges. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated within half-a-mile of the north boundary of the parish — rather inconveniently for people in the south end of the parish. It was built in 1821, and seated for 750. The seats are all rent-free, and the church is very commodious, with a neat low spire. The manse was built in 1759, and repaired and enlarged in 136 ABERDEENSHIRE. 1781. The glebe coDsists of about 7 imperial acres, 4 of good land, 3 of bad — value L.10 per annum. The stipend is 16 chalders of victual, half meal half barley — barley Linlithgow measure. About 280 families in the parish, and, in general, between 500 and 600 persons attend the Established Church every Sabbath. There are 8 families of Episcopalians, and 7 of Seceders in the parish. The Established Church is remarkably well attended. Within the last seven years, the number of communicants has increased from 527 to 598. Education. — There are two schools, — one parochial and the other on the teacher's own adventure. The latter receives small sums from some of the heritors occasionally as a reward. Salary of parochial school is L. 32 ; amount of fees of each school about L. 20 a year. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodation. School- fees per quarter, 2s. for English; 3s. for English and writing; 4s. for arithmetic; and 5s. for Latin. Till the present parochial schoolmas- ter fell into bad health, when it was given up, an academy was kept at the parochial school for nearly fifty years, attended by from 20 to 30 gentlemen's sons, at L. 30 a-year for board and education. The academy was the means of giving better education to the parishioners than any of their neighbours had an opportunity of obtaining. Many of the younger farmers belonging to the parish, who received their education at the Udny Academy, attended se- veral sessions at the Aberdeen universities. Some of the pa- rishioners' sops became professional men, who, had it not been for the academy, would have been in humble life. There is not a person in the parish above fifteen years of age who cannot read and write. Poor and Parochial Funds. — About 31 receive parochial aid, at the average rate of L. 1, 16s. per annum. Besides these, several are maintained at firom 2s. to 3s. per week, and many get occa- sional supplies. Average collection on Sundays at the church 10s. Thepoof% fund has also the interest of a mortified sum of L. 350. Use of mortcloth yields about L.2, 15s. per annum; and fines for im- moralities L.3 per annum; accidental legacies, in small sums^ may yield L. 8 per annum, and gifts from charitable individuals may yield L. 4 per amium. It is much to be regi*etted that many <^ the poor, when once they receive a little relief, anxiously look for 4 UDNY. - 137 more' ; and when they once reoeWe relief^ it too frequently breaks the spring of industry, and renders them quite dependent. Fairs. — Three fairs are held at Green of Udny, chiefly for dis- posing of black-cattle. The fairs are well attended. Inns. — There are 7 inns, by far too many, as they have a very bad effect on the morals of the people. Fuel. — Formerly peats were the only fuel, procured at a great waste of time and labour, tboi^h little or no money was laid out for it. Now, about one-half of the fuel is coals, bought at Aberdeen and Newburgh, at about 4s. the imperial boll of 86 stones. Coals are much cheaper than peat Miscellaneous Observations. At the time of the former Statistical Account, forty-six years ago, a great proportion of the parish was covered with broom, whins, and bulrushes. These are now extirpated, and theeye meets with nothing but cultivated and mostly enclosed fields. Fewer hands are now employed in agriculture than were formerly, in proportion to the extent cultivated. The improved method of working, especially the thrashing-machines, as every farm above fifty acres has a thrash- ing-machine, has greatly diminished human labour. The conse- quence has been, that many of the labourers have repaired to Aberdeen, or where they could find employment, which accounts for there being more births than burials in the parish. About forty years ago, there were ten meal mills in the parish. The spare grain was all milled and sold in Aberdeen. There are now only three meal milb in the parish. These have not constant em- ployment The farmers mill little more than what is sufficient for their families. It is found more advantageous to sell grain than meaL' In the parish are 8 blacksmiths, 8 shoemakers, 5 tailors, 5 Wrights, and 3 masons. Most of them work by the piece. There are 2 gardeners, who work at Is. 6d. per day, with victuals. Farm- servants compose the chief body of the people. They are sober, industrious, and trustworthy. Some of the tradesmen are dissi- pated. There are 6 merchants in the parish upon a small scale. They all retail groceries and coarse cloth. Most of them sell spirits, which circumstance has a strong tendency to hurt the mo- rals of the people. The farmers take most of their groceries from Aberdeen. Many of the cottars and small tenants barter their butter and eggs with the country retailers, for groceries. A few weeks before Whitsunday and Martinmas, markets are 138 ABERDEENSHIRE. held in different parts of the country for engaging farm-servants. The best sign of the times is, when the servants are scarce, and wages high. January 1840. PARISH OF OLD DEER. PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JOHN MORISON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The word Deer, which gives name at once to the pa- rish, to the village that lies contiguous to the parish church, and to the presbytery of the bounds, appears, on a review of ecclesias- tical and other records, to have been spelled differently at different periods, but always to have been composed of letters which, when spoken according to the ordinary rules of pronunciation, would have invariably produced the same sound. The intelligent author of the last Statistical Report of the parish traces the origin of the name Deer to a Gaelic word signifying the worship of God ; others, again, have traced its etymology to a Saxon word signifying hollow or valley. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is situated about the centre of the district of Buchan. It is not less than 1 1 miles long in its greatest dimension from south-east to north-west, and from 5 to 6 miles broad, where it is widest. At an average, it may be com- puted as being 9^ miles in length, by 4^ miles in breadth ; thus containing upwards of 40 square miles of surface, or about 25,000 imperial acres. Mr Robertson, in his map of the counties of Aber- deen, &c. estimates the extent of the parish in Aberdeenshire at 22,940 acres, and in Banffshire, 2777 acres; an estimate which agrees pretty nearly with that above given. The less portion is generally supposed to be w detached part of a great barony, the body of which constitutes the parish of St Fergus, that belonged to a family of the name of Cheyne, once hereditary sheriffs of the county of Banff, who had their castle or principal residence at In- verugie. These lands came into the possession of the Marischal &- mily, in consequence of an alliance by marriage of one of the OLD DEER. 139 Keiths with the heiress of that house, about the middle of the four- teenth century. The parish is of an irregular shape, and in many places without any distinct or natural boundary, bearing some re- semblance to the usual form of a cross tree, a sort of yoke that em- braces the neck, and stretches over the shoulders, — from the ends of which, persons, for the sake of ease and convenience, often sus- pend and carry water buckets or such like burdens. The space corresponding with the cavity that receives the neck is on the east side, and belongs to the parish of Longside ; and the site of the parish church is in the line of that encroachment, little more than a mile from the junction of the two parishes, and about 10^ miles by the public road from the nearest sea»port, at the parliamentary burgh and market-town of Peterhead. Topographical Appearances. — The surface is undulating, present- ing to the eye of a spectator, placed on an elevated situation, a group of eminences of various sizes and forms, separated from one another, and in some instances altogether surrounded by rivulets or rills. Many of these eminences, the highest of which it is probable, though no exact measurement of their altitude has been taken, does not exceed between 200 and 300 feet above the level of the sea, are cultivated to the top ; and most of the interjacent valleys are now brought under tillage, to which great encouragement has been given by several proprietors, particularly of late, in cleaning and straighting water-courses, so as to facilitate the means of drainage, and prevent flooding. The peninsular situation of Buchan, at least the distance it stretches into the sea, and its general want of shelter from hills or woods, render the climate upon the whole rather humid and chil- ly, although it is no doubt undergoing an improvement by the re- moval of stagnant water and marshes, and the increase of plan- tations and quickset hedges. * Yet the number of individuals of both sexes that reach a very advanced period of lifcj^ and the rareness of epidemics or any prevailing ailment, would warrant an inference, that. the locality is rather salubrious than other- wise. Of late, however, to whatever cause it may be owing, the stone and urinary connplaints seem to be on the increase. In- stances, too, of natural small-pox, owing most probably to the omis- sion or improper application of vaccine matter, have become much * In the beginning' of the year 1837f when this Account was drawn up, there were living in the parish no fewer than five persons, each above ninety- five years of age, and one of them just approaching the end of a century. 140 ABERDEENSHIRE. more frequent of late than they used to be, though rarely fatal. Much credit is due to the medical practitioners, who not only be- stow gratuitously upon the sick poor their skill and attendance when required, but also often supply them with medicines and cor- dials at their own expense.* * The foUowing statement of the times at which the oat seed and oat hanrett com- menced and ended, on farms that may be regarded as being rather above the average in point of earliness, during the period which has elapsed since the publication of the last Statistical Account of the parish, will be of use, not only in showing the general - character of the seasons during that time, but as furnishing a means of comparing the climate of this district of country with that of any other where similar information can be procured. Oat Harvest. Commence. Ended. 1796, Sept. 20, Oct. 20. 1797, Do. 13, Do. 13. 1798, Aug. 27, Sept. 16. 1799, Oct. 6, Nov. 12. 1800, Sept. 9, Oct. 12. 1801, Do. 2, Do. 1. 1802, Do. 29, Do. 26. 1803, Aug. 27, Do. 4. 1804, Sept. 10, Do. 5. 1805, Do. 23, Do. 24. 1806, Do. 22, Do. 15. 1807, Do. 15, Nov. 7. 1808, Aug. 27, Oct. 3. 1809, Sept. 19, Do. 23. 1810, Oct. 2, Nov. 5. 1811, Sept. 13, Oct. 18. 1812, Oct. 7, Nov. 16. 1813, Sept. 9, Oct. 4. 1814, Do. 21, Do. 22. 1815, Do. 9, Do. 9. 1816, Oct. 14, Nov. 28. 1817, Do. 1, Oct. 31. 1818, Aug. 31, Do. 8. 1819, Do. 24, Sept. 18. 1820, Sept. 11, Oct. 5. 1821, Do. 13, Do. 6. 1822, Aug. 16, Sept. 10. 1823, S«pt. 19, Oct. 28. 1824, Do. 9, Do. II. 1825, Aug. 26, Sept. 29. 1826, July 31, Aug. 29. 1827, Sept 3, Oct. 25. 1828, Aug. 23, Sept. 17. 1829, Sept. 7, Oct. 9. 1830, Do. 10, Do. la 1831, Aug. 13, Sept. 10. 1832, Sept. 11, Oct. 13. 1833, Do. 2, Do. 10. 1834, Aug. 15, Sept. 2. 1835, Sept. 2, Do. 25. 1836,t Aug. 29, Oct. 25. t An intense frost, followed by successive falls of snow, set in on 9th March this year, and continued almost without intermission for nearly six weeks. Between the even* ing of the 29th and the morning of the 30th March, the snow fell at an average from 10 to 12 inches in depth. The seed cast into the ground before the beginning of this severe weather did not appear to have sustained much damage, unless where it was imperfectly harrowed in. Sowing of Oats. Commenced. Ended. 1796, Mar. 18, Apr. 12. 1797, Do. 6, Mar. 31. 1798, Do. 26, Apr. 11. 1799, Do. 24, Do. 24. 1800, Do. 26, Do. 11. 1801, Do. 3, Do. 10. 1802, Do. Do. 8. 1803, Do. 25; Do. 23. 1804, Do. 31, Do. 30. 1805, Do. 14, Mar. 27. 1806, Do. 31, Apr. 11. 1807, Apr. 8, Do. 23. 1808, Mar. 14, Do. 9. 1809, Do. 15, Do. 12. 1810, Do. 30, Do. 26. 1811, Do. 18, Do. 15. 1812, Apr. 7, Do. 2a 1813, Mar. 16, Mar. 26. 1814, Apr. 2, Apr. 25. 1815, Mar. 6, Apr. 3. 1816, Do. 29, Do. 20. 1817, Do. 17, Do. 3. 18I8» Do. 24, Do. 15. 1819, Do. 13, Do. 10. 1820, Do. 20, Do. 17. 1821, Apr. 3, Do.i28. 1822, Feb. 28, Mar. 2a 1823, Mar. 16, May 2. 1824, Apr. 5, Apr. 16. 1825, Mar. 21, Mar. 29. 1826, Do. 6, Do. 21. 1827, Do. 27, Apr. 6 1828. Do. 11, Do. 28. 1829, Mar. 23, Apr. 24. 1830, Do. 18, Do. 12. 1831, Do. 23, Do. 18. 1832, Feb. 27, Mar. 31. 1833, Mar. 27, Apr. 23. 1834, Do. 3, Da 10. 1835, Do. 16, Do. 4. 1836, Do. 19, Do. 12. 1887, Do. 4, May 9. OLD DEER. HI Hydrography. — There is no natural lake of any considera- tion in the parish. But within the park or pleasure-ground of Pitfour, the seat of George Ferguson, Esq. Captain R. N., there is an artificial one in front of the house, covering more than 25 acres, tastefully designed, abundantly stocked with tench, carp, and Lochleven trout, and crossed in its branches by three neat stone bridges, one with three arches which open ap- proaches to the mansion. This irregular piece of water, made by means of a deep embankment on one side to fill a winding hollow, is skirted nearly round by large trees or young thriving plantations, and has had lately erected on its brink, at the place where the flow or spare water escapes, a very elegant small temple, constructed after the plan of that of Theseus at Athens, and surrounded by thirty- four granite columns. The interior is neatly fitted up as a cold bath. This lake, besides supplying a peculiar and beautiful object in the landscape, and serving as a breeding-place or depot for fresh wa- ter fish, has become the constant habitation of a colony of tame swans, and, at particular seasons of the year, it may be seen occa- sionally almost covered with flocks of wild ducks. The only streams of any considerable size that pass through the parish, are the south and north branches of the Ugie, which blend their waters in the parish of Longside, and flow into the sea toge- ther scarcely a mile N. W. of Peterhead. Owing to the small accli- vity of the ground^ and the numerous bends or turns of the valleys, through which they pass, they make in general a very sluggish and meandering course ; and where pains have not been taken to deepen and straighten their channels, or raise proper embankments, they are apt to overflow after falls of rain, and, unless in particular spots, or in very dry times, to keep wet the flats on each side. Containing as they do a plentiful supply of black or burn-trouts, they afibrd abundance of what is called sport to the angler ; but very few of the salmon tribe, beyond mere fry, are to be found at this distance from the sea. The principal stream, where it passes the church, has not run, perhaps, above ten miles from its source in New Deer, and the surface from which it collects the water that springs from and falls upon the earth, does not exceed fifty square miles. There are several tributary streams of less size, rising in the parish, and some of them driving machinery as they pass along. Most parts of the parish are well supplied with pure spring water ; but there are a few situations ill accommodated in this respect, where pits have been dug in vain forty feet deep. Chalybeates, 142 ABEaDEENSHIRE. pretty richly impregnated with iron, are far from being scarce, but they have been rarely used for medical or other purposes. Geology. — The only rocks that have been wrought and turned to account are granite and limestone. Several of the ridges or small hills seem to be composed entirely of the first named species of fossil^ of different degrees of hardness, and varying, not only in size of grains, and the proportions of constituent materials, but also in colour, from a light to a dark gray. Veins or larger masses of an impure species of lime rock have raised their crops in different peaces, particularly at Hythie, Clochcan Elrick, and Broomhill of Annochie, where the stone has been quarried and burned ; but owing to the smallness of the commodity, or the cost of manufac- turing it, occasioned chiefly by its depth, when the crops are taken off, or the way in which it is overlaid, and in some cases rendered very impure by heterogeneous and solid materials, — the works have been discontinued for some time, and it is likely will not soon be resumed at the three first named places. At Annochie, there is still within reach a considerable body of lime rock, interspersed, however, with dikes, veins, and blocks of gneiss, which, though they present pretty much the same appearance as the limestone in many respects, experienced workmen can in general distinguish by the eye, without applying any other test. The limestone itself is of an impure description, adulterated with a mixture of magnesian earth, which renders it a deleterious manure, especially for hot and light soils, though it is in high repute, and usually preferred to lighter and purer lime, for building purposes. The stone, detached from the rock by iron crows, large hammers, and blasts of gunpowder, is broken by smaller hammers into fragments, as if intended for the substratum of a turnpike road, and calcined in small clump kilns by peats. Sometimes in wet seasons, when peat fuel is scarce or bad, a sprinkling of coal is used in the process. The limeT, when burned, is slacked or reduced to powder by the appli- cation of water. The heterogeneous substances which the fire has not decomposed, or the fused slug caused by the excess of heat, are separated from the dust by a riddle or sieve wrought by the hand, and what passes through the instrument is sold at from 8d. to lOd. per Linlithgow boll. The tenant reports that, for several years back, at an average, he has disposed of 2500 bolls on these terms, and that he has sold, besides, yearly upwards of 180 cubic yards of unbumed stone, which people in the neighbourhood pur- chase at the rate of 9s. a quarter, as it is called, — that is, a heap of OLD DEER. 143 Stones built rudely into something like the form of a cube, 5 feet on each side, four of these measures, or 500 solid feet, being esti- mated to yield 100 bolls of lime. Within two furlongs of the lime quarry, on the lands of Annochie also, are numerous large blocks of pure white quartz, some lying on the surface and others imbedded in the earth. Towards the south side of the parish, and in several other detached districts, such rocks and stones as are found partake chiefly of the silicious character, and can with difficulty be forced by the hammer or any instrument into proper shapes for building. The high ground south of the house of Kinmundy, and the top of the hill of Skel- muir, fully more than one mile and a-half to the westward, and se- parated from the other by a pretty deep and broad valley, are overspread with nodules and fragments of flint. The heart of most of these nodules, when they are broken, contains a cavity, and discloses the impression of a sea shell. In digging gravel pits to find materials for making roads, the constituent parts of granite, felspar^ quartz, and mica are often met with ; all regularly disposed, and exhibiting, till touched, some- what of a rocky appearance, but without the least cohesion among the particles. Phenomena of this kind, and well marked symptoms of stratification, may be traced at difierent elevations, in some in- stances from one side of a valley to a corresponding level on the opposite. There have been, at some period, immense fields of peat moss occupying the low ground, and filling up cavities where there was stagnant water in more elevated situations. But in consequence of the heavy demand that has been long made upon it for fuel and other purposes, and the little care taken to promote its growth, there are but few places now where it is not altogether or almost exhausted, and the spots where it existed either left an unseemly waste, or reduced to tillage. Nor is the destruction of this sub- stance much to be regretted ; for it manifestly tends to deteriorate the climate, by reason of the facility with which, like a sponge, it receives and retains moisture and frost. And if due allowance be made for the time, money, and labour consumed in procuring this commodity, when the place where it is found lies several miles dis- tant from that where it has to be used, the same quantity of heat may be obtained at less cost from sea-borne coal, provided a horse can go by a tolerable road to the port, and return with a load the same day. Boles or logs of hard-wood trees, principally oak, rarely 1 44 ABERDEENSHIUE. if ever fir, some of them considerable as to girth, but of no great length, are found now and then in a tolerable state of preseryation in the mosses. SoiL — The soil, as might naturally be expected in such a variety of surface, is far from being uniform. In some cases, the clayey or argillaceous, and in others the sandy, gravelly, or silicious ingredients prevail. Small, indeed, is the quantity that can be re- garded as alluvial. In several flats and braes, or hill-sides, such soil as there is seems to have been torn with diflBculty from a light coarse sward overlying a mass of ferruginous matter, impervious to water, and next to impenetrable ; or from an inert ochrey sand, te which it is scarcely possible by any means to impart life and fer- tility. It seems utterly beyond the power of man to make a good or profitable subject of such materials as these, although the intro- duction of bone-dust as a manure, and one that appears from use peculiarly well suited for a situation like this, gives the tenant of a dry and hazelly field an advantage which he did not previously possess. It is a pity, however, to see a farmer bestowing a more than due proportion of culture and cost upon ground where, though it is easy to make the plough pass, he can expect no adequate re- turn, while he may have in his possession, and leave neglected, tracts of wet or boggy land, that may be dried and cultivated at an expense, doubtless, great in the first instance, — but for which in the end, especially if those having a permanent interest in the ground give him a proper degree of assistance, he would be much better remunerated. The tops of several bare hills, now covered with nothing but stunted heath, appear to have been cultivated at some former period. There are still visible upon them the marks of crooked ridges, which in all probability were successively gathered and cropped, till they became, in spite of any treatment which the skill or enterprise of the day could employ, absolutely effete, leav- ing balks or intervals between them from which the mould was en- tirely scraped off, wider than the ridges themselves. Though this be rather an unfavourable representation of the actual state of se- veral localities, yet it is but fair to state that the parish in general contains, perhaps, fully as great a proportion of generousand worka- ble soil as is to be found in most districts of the country. In old times, it was the practice to keep a portion of the land near to the farm-steading perpetually in crops of barley, oats, or pease, and to treat the rest as an out-farm, on which they pastured and folded the cattle, and from which they transferred to the dung-pit such OLD DEER. 145 «arth as they could lift, to form with the aDimal manure dropped in winter, and peat-ashes, a compost for deepening and enriching by turns the fields which were destined to constant aratioh. This plan of management served to impoverish one part of the farm, while it benefited another, and was the cause of a distinction which is still observable and spoken of, between infield and ouifieldj not- withstanding a long-continued attempt to bring them nearer to a state of equality by a different andimproved system of husbandry. jBotoity.-— The following is a list of a few plants culled by a scientific friend, which he reckoned as being of the rarer species in the district, viz. — PepHs portuU ' Listera cordata Subularia aquatica Pamaasia palustris Trientalis Europasa Botrychiura Lunaria Menyanthea trifoliata Veronica scutellata Hippuris yulgaris, &c. Fumaria ciaviculata Montia fontana It is not saying much to state, that there is more growing wood in this parish, and much of it in a more thriving condition, than is to be found in any other district of Buchan of an equal, or even of a much greater extent The late James Fei^uson, Esq. of Pitfour was at great pains and cost in forming plantations : and the present proprietor, while he attends carefully to thinning, pruning, and nursing the woods that he found upon the estate, has done a good deal to extend their limits. It is to be regretted, however, that much of his labour and money are lost, as the greater number of the plants put into the ground are either totally de< stroyed by deer, hares, and rabbits, or so much injured as to leave little hope of their ever coming to be trees. About 1100 acres of the property in this parish are occupied by plantations. The father of .the present proprietor of Aden was also at sin- gular pains in raising forest trees, and ornamenting his place or manor. When he succeeded to the property it was rather naked ; but he left on the portion of it immediately attached to the do- main, a great many acres of thriving wood, not short of 300 acres, I should suppose, in masses, clumps, belts, and hedge-rows. Mr Ferguson of Kenmundy is not much indebted to his an- cestors for the care they took to enrich and beautify the estate he inherited in this way ; but since he came to have the command of it, he has himself planted fully 90 acres, a considerable part of which, though young, bodes well. On the estate of Dens, belonging to the Rev. John Stuart Bur- nett, an English clergyman, there is a plantation, embosoming or skirting some corn fields, probably altogether 70 or 80 acres in ABERDEEN. K 146 ABERDEENSHIRE. extent, of pretty well-grown . Scotch fir, interspersed with some hard-wood, and some larch more recently planted. Beech and spruce seem to be the kinds of wood that generally thrive best ; but there are to be seen in different places, fair spe- cimens of most other species of trees, natural or domesticated, in the north of Scotland, particularly ash, elm, silver-fir, larch, and our own native pine. The cold saline piercing blasts from the sea, meeting with little to temper or turn them aside as they sweep over the surface, are undoubtedly adverse to the growth of wood. Zoology. — There is not much curious or rare in the zoology of this parish. It may be noticed, however, that rabbits have so mul- tiplied within the protected grounds, as to have become a pest to farmers and foresters. Their number and prolifickness may in part be judged of from this fact, that, notwithstanding about half a score of years back, they were scarcely known to exist in a wild state; nearly 12,000 were shot or snared in the course of one year, principally in the policies and woods that lie round the house of Pitfour. In the north, which is the best wooded side of the pa- rish, roe-deer and fallow, the progeny of a few that escaped from a neighbouring park, now become wild, are also pretty numerous* Hares, where care is bestowed in protecting the game, are, many think, more than sufficiently plentiful for all useful purposes, while in several respects they are obviously destructive. The cultiva- tion of moors, mosses, and bogs has not favoured the increase or preservation of grouse and snipes, so that of these there are com- paratively few. Several varieties of wild ducks are far from being scarce. Wild geese occasionally visit the country in seed-time. Partridges in good seasons are abundant Of woodcocks, many scores have been shot in the course of a winter. The ordinary birds of passage, cuckoos, plovers, corn-rails, swallows, &c. never fail to come and go at their stated times. Captain Ferguson some years ago introduced a brood of pheasants, which, from being well attended to and protected, have prospered and spread in the quar- ter. II. — Civil History. Deer, if not the first, was probably one of the first places in Buchan where a Christian church was erected. There is a le-^ gend, that when some pious individuals formed the design of build* ing a house for the worship of God, and selected such spots, one after another, as their own judgment, inclination, or convenience OLD DEEIU 147 might have led them to prefer, while they saw no person, they beard a voice thus accost them : *< It it DOC here, it is not here. That ye*re to big the Kirk o' Deer, But on the tap o* Tillery, Where many a corpse shall after lie." A church accordingly was built on a knoll or small mount, em- braced by a semicircular bend of the Ugie, and, as was customary, a piece of ground around it was set apart for a burfal-place, so that the weird is fully verified, in the great number of interments that have taken place, during the lapse of centuries, in a wide and po- pulous parish. There are visible proofs still remaining that this parish was for- merly the scene of warfare, occasioned by family feuds, civil strife, or the invasion of the country by foreigners. On the top of the hill of Bruxie, and at Den of Howie, near Fetterangus, there are traces of fortifications and encampments; and near the foot of Arkey-brae, there is a cluster of tumuli, pointing out the graves of warriors who fell in a bloody contest reported to have taken place between Edward, the brother of King Robert Bruce, and Gum- ming, the Earl of Buchan, with their followers and clansmen. In the insurrection of 1745-6, there were risings in behalf of the exiled Stuarts, many of the heads of families being attached to the Jacobite interest That rough partizan of the fallen cause, Gordon of Glenbucket, instead of attaching himself to the main army, extended his barbarities into the lowlands ; and as the Laird of Kinmundy was known to favour the opposite side, he shewed some of his rude civilities to that house, particularly to the lady, who was left in command of the garrison. Present State of Property. — The three principal landholders re- side in the parish. Captain Ferguson of Pitfour ; Mr Ferguson of Kinmundy; and Mr Russell of Aden. There are six others who have estates here, viz. the Honourable William Gordon of Ellon, proprietor of Skelmuir; the Rev. J. S. Burnett has Dens and Little Crichie ; Mr Buchan of Auchmacoy, Knock ; Mr Gordon of Nethermuir, Kidshill and 'Greenbrae ; Lord Lovat a portion of Skillimarno, at the north extremity of the parish ; and Mr Forbes Irvine of Schivas, the pendicle of Cairncummer. Besides what belongs to these individuals, between a fifth and a sixth part of the whole parish, estimated according to the valued rent, is mortified pro- perty, appertaining to various charitable trusts. Clachriah, &c. pur- chased lately from Pitfour, belongs to the Trustees of the late Mr Gor- 148 ABERDEENSHIRE. Jon of Murtle, who are vested with discretionary power, and have ap- plied the greater part of the proceeds to the endowment of a school for educating poor girls in Aberdeen, and the establishment there of something like parochial schools ; Upper Crichie, Annochie, and Elrick, to the Trustees of the late Andrew Simpson of Colliehill, who destined the first-named place to endow a hospital, now con- joined with that of Mr Gordon of Sillerton's, for educating the sons of poor burgesses in the same city, and the two last for the behoof of the ordinary poor there. Kinaddie was likewise left by the late Mr Burnett of Dens for the same purpose, as long as it should not be necessary to have recourse to a legal assessment, .and, in that event, to pass to the Infirmary or Lunatic Asylum. The same gentleman bequeathed a small property, yielding at present upwards of L. 40 of gross rental, under a certain trust, to the kirk-session, for the benefit of certain descriptions of poor on his own estates in the parish. He has Stipulated, however, that it shall revert to the heir of the family estate, seven years after the permanent establishment of a poor rate shall be found necessary.* This small fund is eminently beneficial, and the ap« plication of it is so judiciously guarded, that it hplds forth no en-* couragement for paupers to settle on the estate from the prospect of sharing in the benefit It is intended chiefly for those, who, after an industrial residence of seven years, have been reduced to straits by the infirmities of age or severe sickness, a preference be- ing shown to persons of good character. Parochial Registers. — The parochial and session registers are incomplete. It is generally alleged that the registers anterior to the death of Mr Keith, the last Episcopal incumbent, and the set- tlement of Mr Gordon, 1710-1 1, were carried off. The Episco- pal clergyman at Old Deer has or had in his possession a regis- ter of baptisms previous to that period, in a good state of preser- vation. There are no records of proceedings that stretch farther back ; and, besides that most of the books seem at times to have been imperfectly kept since, there is many a hiatus to interrupt their continuity. Antiquities. — The only ruinous building within the parish en- titled to notice, is the Abbey of Deer. What remains of this an- cient edifice is now situated within and protected by the high wall which encloses the fruit and kitchen garden of Pitfour. Before pains were taken to preserve the ruins, the fabric, which appears from the * lliis apprehended contingency has now taken place. OLD DEER. 149 ground plan^ yet marked by the remaining fragments of walls, to have been originally a very extensive though rude piece of mason-* ry, was in a great measure dilapidated for the purpose of con- structing houses and dikes in the neighbourhood, and till a late proprietor of Pitfour took the trouble of clearing away part of the rubbish, and repairing some of the principal walls, according to the original plan of architecture, if the phrase may be used in re* spect to so plain a style of building, — the form and dimensions of the edifice could not be ascertained. The church, situated on the north side, has been of considerable size, built in the form of a cross, with chancel, nave, and transept, in fair proportions. The greatest length, taken internally from east to west, is 150 feet, and the greatest breadth, where is the transept, 90 feet. The roof of the nave, itself 38^ feet wide, appears to have bad, besides the support of the walls, that of a row of stone pillars, the bases of which are still visible, extending from end to end about 17 feet distant from one another, and considerably nearer the north than the south side of the building. This religious house was founded about the beginning of the thirteenth century, by one of the Cum- mings, then Earl of Buchan, and first occupied by a colony of Cis- tertian monks from the Abbey of Kinloss, in Moray. A name- sake of the founder was the builder. Not many years ago, a lin- tel over a door in the ruinotis castle of Inverallochy, parish of Lon- may, was removed, which is said to have had on it this inscription, or words to the same effect : ** ly Jordan Cummin, indwaller here. Got lands of Inverallochy for building Abbey Deer.*^ The abbey was suppressed at the Reformation, and erected in- to a temporal lordship in favour of Robert, the Earl Marischal's second son, created Lord Altrie. The newly created peer dying without issue, the title became extinct, and the estate was incorpo- rated with that of the head of the family. The revenue of the in- stitution, as appears from the collector's books, still or lately ex- tant, is stated at L. 572, 8s, 6d. of money ; 65 chalders, 7 bolls, 1 firlot, 3 pecks of meal; 14 bojis of wheat; and 14 chalders 10 bolls of bear. If we advert to the extent of territory set apart for the support of the house, and to the rents which the lands may be supposed to yield to their proprietors at the present day, the annual income of this monastic establishment must have been con- siderable. Among the ancient erections we ought to include the Druidical 150 ABERDEENSUIHE. temples, or circles, as they are commonly called. These appear to have been more than usually numerous here, although vestiges only of four or five now remain. The rest have been destroyed for the sake of the stones, or to clear the way for cultivating the ground they occupied. The one that is most entire and best ex- posed to public view, is on the top of the hill of Parkhouse. The principal or altar stone, placed as usual on the south side, and ly- ing with its ends east and west, is 14^ feet long, 5^ feet broad, and 4^ feet deep. If a third part of the solid contents or measure which these dimensions would yield, be deducted for defects or in- equalitiea in the stone, the gross weight of it, at 1 1 cubic feet per ton, would still exceed 21 tons. The stone belongs to the primi- tive trap. The diameter of the space inclosed, or comprehended by the circle, is 48 feet. Only four of the upright stones remain, and are about 14 feet asunder. *^ At the distance of 500 yards, on the north side of the same hill," observes the author of the last Statistical Account of the parish, ^' were not long ago the ruins of a small village^ supposed to have been the residence of the Druids," (but commonly called by the country people Pights' or Picts' house's.) *' A number of little yards were to be seen all around it," every vestige of which is now obliterated by the process of culture. " It consisted of 50 or 60 mossy huts, from 6 to 12 feet square, irregularly hud- dled together. Hence it got the name of the bourachs. The walls were built of stone and clay ; the floors were paved with stones." Modem Buildings^ State of the Population^ S^c- — The three re- sident heritors have neat, commodious, and, for the extent of their estates, sufficiently spacious houses, with suitable courts of offices, either entirely built, or extensively repaired and greatly enlarged by themselves. The mansion of Pitfour, including furniture, and what has been laid out in constructing its various useful and or- namental appendages, improving the park and policies, making approaches, &c. has cost the present owner, according to his own admission, and that of his men of business, nearly L. 80,000. III. — Population. Owing chiefly to the building and increase of two villages within the last sixty years, viz. Crichie or Stewartfield and Fetterangos, the former containing, according to a list of inhabitants recently taken, 573, and the latter, 216 souls ; and the settlement of croft- ers and cottagers in spots which used to lie waste, — the population of the parish has increased greatly since 1750, and is still in the . J OLD DEER. 151 increasing ratio. The only other collection of inhabited houses entitled to the name of a village is that of Old Deer, contiguous to the parish church. This village contained, at the time the census of the other two was last taken, 211 persons of all ages, and has received little increase or alteration for a long time. In the year 1787 or 1788, a careful census was taken of the people, distinguishing the different religious denominations, with a view to ascertain what accommodation it would be expedient to provide for those belonging to the Establishment in a new church, which was then about to be built. The gross population at that time is reported to have been 3267, of whom 962 are set down as being Episcopalians, Papists, or Seceders, amounting together to considerably more than one-fourth of the whole people. Ac- cording to the census made by order of Government in 1831, the number of inhabitants had grown to 4110, and in 1836, it would appear, from a careful investigation of the matter, to have then increased to no fewer than 4428 individuals. The number of religious sects or persuasions is much greater than it was in 1788, and, if the investigation alluded to be correct, the proportions among such sects as then existed have been greatly altered ; but the ratio which the various Dissenting bodies now bear to the Establish-^ ment, seems to remain much the same, since the total number of full-grown persons presently in full communion with the Esta- blished Church appears to be 1708, and of those in the same state belonging to all other denominations of Christians, 645. As no register of burials is kept, and parents, particularly those belonging to Dissenting communions, are far from being punc- tual in getting their children's baptisms or ages recorded,' an ac- count to be depended on cannot be given of the number of births and burials that happen annually. But the average number of marriages for the last seven years, counting a marriage only when the female belongs to the parish, is 26. There are 259 families in the three villages, and 725 in rural situations, thus giving on an average in the former case nearly 4, and in the latter somewhat less than 5 individuals to a family. Of these families, reckoning by the religious persuasion of the person who is at the head of each, there are 714 belonging to the Established Church; 83 Episcopalian; 157 of the Original or United Secession; and 30 of different Dissenting bodies, chiefly Congregational ists. Only one person, a boy, is known to be altogether deaf and dumb; but there are 4 totally blind. No fewer than 10 persons 152 ABEUDEENSinilE. belonging to the parish, all related to poor families, are unhappi- ly possessed of disordered or weak understandings, two of whooi are violently insane, and the rest fatuous or imbecile. The following may be rehed upon as a pretty accurate state- ment of the present population in respect to professional employ- ments, &c. ApoUieoary, . 1 Innkeepers, 6 Bachelors and widowers above 50 Labourers, 134 years of uge» 92 Male servants above 20 years, 250 Bakers, 6 Ditto under ditto, 163 Blacksmiths, 24 Male teacher on own adventure, 1 Brewers, 2 Maltsters, 4 Carpenters, 46 Masons, 26 Carriers* 5 Merchants or shop-keepers, 19 Clergymen, 5 Millers, . . • 10 CrofVers with a piece of ground. 401 Painter, 1 Dress-makers & seamstresses, about ; 20 Parochial schoolmasters, . 3^ Dyers, 5 Physicians, . • •* . 3 Kxcise-ofiScer, 1 Resident proprietors, H: Farmers, or persons occupying a Shoemakers, . • 47 portion of land sufficient to em- Slater, 1 ploy one plough at least, about 140 Tailors, 23 Farriers, 4 Turners, 2 Female servants above 20 years. 259 Unmarried women above 45 years, 249 Ditto under ditto, 127 Watchmakers, 3 Female teachers, 9 Weavers, male, 51 Fieshers, 4 Do. female, 22 Gamekeepers, 3 73 Gardeners, 9 It were much to be desired that more attention were paid to cleanliness and cheap comforts by the common people, than is the case. But, upon the whole, we think that even the lowest of the peasantry are not in this particular a whit behind those of the same class throughout the district. IV. — Industry. State of Agriculture and Manufactures. — Such is the general state of agricultural knowledge that most farmers, and even crofters, are disposed, as they are usually bound by their tenures, to observe, from beginning to end of their leases, a regular plan of tillage. A five-course shift was the one that for some time till of late, was most in vogue, viz. first year, oats from lea ; second, tur- nip, potatoes, and, when the manure failed, naked fallow ; third, barley, oats, or sometimes wheat, with a due quantity of clover and rye-grass seeds ; fourth, hay or pasture ; and fifth, pasture. Some tenants had, besides these lots, another section, at least, a paddock or small field, in perpetual grass. This short rotation, however, has been found by experience, particularly on loamy and open soils, one that cannot be persisted in with profit, because the fre- quent ploughings and croppings it requires have a tendency to 4 OLD DKER. 153 Exhaust the land, and render it too open and loose ; and it has, in general, been deemed expedient to lengthen the se- ries to six, seven, or eight years, that the land, from getting more rest, as it is called, may become more consolidated and produc- tive. How far the evil that arises from loosening the soil to ex- cess, is remedied by the agricultural instrument lately invented and called a compressor^ is yet here only the subject of experiment. The ground, whether naturally dry or wettish, is still laid out in flat, straight, and narrow ridges, from sixteen to twenty feet broad* Furrow-draining, — although stones in general are pretty plentiful, — is not practised to great extent ; but some trials of it have been made with good effect. Enclosing fields by stone dikes, deep ditches in wet land, and shallow ones in dry situations, with a mound on one side cropped with stones, where stones are not easily provided, or little or no allowance is granted by the landlord for fen- ces, — has become very common of late. — Cattle are found to thrive better when they are allowed to eat, drink, roam, and rest at plea- sure, free from the control of a herd, and the confinement of a house or pen during the heat of summer ; and more of them can be kept within the same bounds enclosed than open. — Hedges of hawthorn, beech, or other wood plants suitable for the purpose, are rare, unless near gentlemen's seats, on account of the expense of rearing them, and the difficulty of making them by any care suffi- cient fences in this climate. It would be judicious, however, to encourage the growth of them, at least, to a certain extent, for the sake of shelter, in conjunction with other means of enclosure. Several persons, the resident heritors especially, have laid out a considerable quantity of land, not under 600 or 700 acres, in i)or- manent pasture, which they let annually at a rent, it may be stated, varying from L. 1, 10s. to L. 4per acre, to cattle-dealers, graziers, and farmers, who can keep a greater stock of bestial in winter than summer on the produce of their farms, when they are kept in the ordinary course of rotation. Both the soil and climate are thought to be better suited for oats, turnip, and pasture, than for wheat or barley. The last two species of grain are on that account sparingly sown. The varieties of oats in most common use are of an early kind, such as white or English barley oats, early Angus oats, po- tato oats, &c In dry and warm soils, liable to be affected by drought, recourse is usually had to those of a later quality, such as late or gray Angus oats, Kildrummy, or what is considered the na- tural oat of the county, JHopetoun oats, &c. The usual quantity 154 ABERDEENSHIRE. of seed is from six to six and a half bushels per imperial acre ; and the returns may be stated, taking an average of seasons, on a good farm, from five to six and a half ; on a bad one, three to four ; and on those of a mixed or indifferent quality, at the va- rious intermediate degrees. From an after statement it will ap- pear that the average return is rather above than below four and a half. Since the turnip husbandry has been fully established, and bone-dust could be purchased at a moderate price, from 2s. 2d. to 2s. 6d. a bushel, to supply the deficiency of home manure, — the growth of peas has been almost discontinued. It is long since farmers used to fatten a part of their winter stock of cattle for the home consumption. That demand, however, was very limited. But of late, the practice of conveying cattle alive in good condition by steam or sailing vessels to London, where a much better price is commonly obtained, has induced many to keep the stots or full-grown animals, which they used to dispose of in Some of the summer markets, to English or south country dealers ; and, when they are fully stall-fed, either to send them directly from themselves, to be sold for their behoof by a commission-agent in the southern metropolis, or to pass them into the hands of a dealer at home, who traffics in that comii\odity. It is not unusual for country graziers or dealers to continue their trade through the winter, and to bargain with farmers for what they can spare of their turnips at so much, from L. 5 to L. 10 per acre, to be con- sumed upon the farm, receiving therewith house accommodation, and a competent quantity of straw for fodder and bedding.- No- thing, for many years, back has contributed more to improve the condition of the farming interest in this part of the world than the discovery and general use of bone manure for the raising of tur- nips, and the easy transport of cattle fattened by them to a distant market. With lime, reckoned favourable, particularly on its first ap- plication to the growth of green crops, the bulk of the land had been saturated, and in many cases supersaturated, so as by an excess of cropping, which almost invariably followed, to have become in many cases a caput mortuum. Feeding, more than forcing manureS} were then wanted; and this desideratum the bones of animals have helped greatly to supply. Had it not been for the favourable cir- cumstances alluded to, in connection with a moderate price for oats, the staple produce here, during the last two or three years, the very low rate of farm produce for a long period before, with little exception, had it continued much longer in a depressed con* OLD DEER. 155 ditioD, would in all probability have placed both the owners and the occupiers of the soil, with many others who depend upon them, directly or indirectly, in a new and perilous situation. Tenants ordinarily are not possessed of much capital beyond what they have invested in stocking and improving their tenements, to enable them to bear up under a heavy and protracted pressure ; and unless their rents could be so adjusted by reference to the current prices of what their farms chiefly yield, so as to rise and fall with the fluctuations in the value of produce, there is a risk of a series of cross seasons obliging them to relinquish their places and voca- tions ; and if this should ever unfortunately be the case, to any considerable extent, it may be difficult to find another set of men possessed of capital, skill, and enterprise to succeed them. It would, therefore, be wise in landlords and tenants to make such arrangements wjth one another, as may enable them to meet, so far as a prudent foresight can avail, without any serious shock, this, to say the least of it, not very improbable contingency. Ad- verting to the ordinary course of seasons and events, and taking, moreover, into account, how the agricultural, like other great na- tional pursuits is liable to be aflfected by the unsettled and restless state of legislation, which has for some time perplexed and discon- certed many classes of the community, we have no right to pre- sume on a lasting continuance of even such prosperity as that with which the country has been for some time providentially favoured. Besides such clauses in leases as those to which I have just refer- red, it would be politic, as well as just in land-owners, to encourage their tenantry, by assisting them to execute all substantial and costly improvements wanted, such as roads, water-courses, ditches, drains, fences, &c. because they thereby put them into a better state for settling with themselves at term time, and, happen what may, provided the occupier pays a due proportion of the expense, these improvements, if judiciously planned and properly executed, must add, beyond what they have cost them, to the value of their property. Indeed, it properly belongs to the proprietor, who either has of himself, or by concert with his neighbours, may get the command of a district, to project and execute many improvements, which, in order to be efiectual, require to be extended over a wider space than the limits of a single tenement. Farms, commencing with such as occupy a pair of horses, and are in the hands of one individual, vary in size from 30 to 500 acres. There are about five score of tenements that can be managed with greater or less 15(J ABEUDEKNSHIRE. ease by one plough ; above thirty that require two ploughs ; seven or eight that cannot be wrought by fewer than three ploughs, at least ; and two that furnish sufiicient employment for five, s ix,or seven. Several of the others, although they have a less field for their operations, are entitled, we doubt not, to a proportional share of credit ; but the occupiers of the two largest fiirms, both gentle- men, well educated, of public spirit, and possessed of some funds, have, in the course of a few years, effected an admirable change^ both as to appearance and value, in the land under their manage- ment* Besides the tenements above-mentioned, there is a very considerable number of small possessions, the holders of which continue with one horse either to associate with a neighbour simi- larly circumstanced, or to mount a yoke of their own, by providing an ox, a stot, or even sometimes a cow, to go alongside his horse in the spring season. Most villagers, and some with small crofts in the country, hire for labouring their lots of ground, or doing other similar services, the ordinary charge being at the rate of Is. 6d. to 2s. for a horse per yoking. The total number of ploughs presently required, or rather actually used in the parish, is as fol- lows, viz. 244 drawn by a pair of horses ; 25 by a pair of oxen ; and 27 by a horse and a nolt animal of some description for a fel* low. It is utterly impracticable, for obvious reasons, to furnish an accurate statement of the amount or value of agricultural stock ; and yet this, if it could be procured, appears to be a very import- ant matter, as it would afford data for comparing the state of the country at one period with that at another, and marking the change for the better or the worse that takes place during the in- terval. As a near approximation to the truth, however, the fol- lowing may be given as the gross amount of live-stock, of all ages, which have been usually kept, summer and winter, for a few years back throughout the parish, taken from lists carefully made up by different individuals acquainted with the several districts, viz. 4347 black cattle, 721 horses, 1019 sheep, and 216 swine. An attempt was made at the same time to ascertain the quantity of grain sown and grown yearly on the several possessions. Owing principally to the irregularity of seasons, there is still greater diflS- culty in ascertaining the fact here than in the former case. The following, however, may be stated as the result : Much to the loss and regret of many, one of these gentlemen has paid the laic debt ef nature since this paragraph was written. OLD DEER. 157 Imperial qiurtera of oats sown, 4451, raised, 20,136 of barley, 72 do. • 447 of wheat, 24 do. 21 Heni oflAind. — The rent of land, as may be readily supposed, is still more various than its quality. Some acres in the immediate vicinity of a village letas high as L.3, 10s. There are farms of a mo- derate size above L.I, 10s. per acre at an average ; and there are others, fully a worse bargain, under a third of that charge. Rent is now generally paid in money, at two terms. In a few late agree* ments for leases, a limited portion, not exceeding a half, is allow- ed to fluctuate according to the fiar prices of victual. Servitudes, once very common, are now rarely exacted ; and what used to be a great and general grievance, when almost every estate was thirled or astricted to a particular mill, and obliged to pay a heavy as- sessment, usually from an eleventh to a sixteenth part of the whole grain crop (with the exception of an allowance for seed and horse-corn,) whether the produce was sold or ground, — is now hap- pily removed, the last of the multures having been converted last year. There are eight meal-mills, six of them with, and two of them without, drying kilns attached. Several of these, lately built, are on a pretty large scale, with granaries, large meal girnals, and a separate machinery for dressing pot-barley, so that the tenants of these mills are enabled to lay themselves out, not merely for working to the mcken and others who may require their services, but also for speculating a little themselves in the purchase of grain, and converting it into meal at their convenience, for a home or distant market. Instead of the miller receiving for workmanship, as was the practice till lately, a specified portion of the produce, the ordinary charge for drying and grinding oats is now sixpence per boll of meal. The only fuel employed to dry the grain is the sids or husks of what has formerly gone through the process. This, compared with the old usage, when all dried their victual at home, and were obliged to keep a kiln on the premises for the purpose, is a very economical arrangement in several respects. Agricultural Live-stock.— -'So one has any thing like a flock of sheep, unless it be the proprietor of Pitfour, who has generally from 200 to 400 of various kinds, which are pastured upon the lawn and some contiguous grass fields. What the family do not require for their own use, are usually sold fat to butchers. There are a few Merinos and Bakewells ; but the ordinary animals to be found about farm towns, or in the custody of crofters, are of mixed and miscellaneous breeds. The prevailing species of black«cattle, 158 ABERDEENSHIRE. for which the district has obtained some celebrity, is dodded or humble, of good symmetry, rather above the middle size, and upon the whole good milkers. WithiD the last dozen of years, the Tees- water has been introduced and propagated, pure or as crosses, to considerable extent The blending of the two breeds has tended much to increase the size, though some allege to deteriorate the quality of the stock. Of this, however, there is scarcely any doubt, that a great increase of carcase and value may be obtained, without much additional cost,, from a judicious mixture, and with moderate keep, now that the necessity of making cattle travel southward is removed, and they can be sent direct to London on shipboard at no very high charge. A first cross from a Buchan cow and a Teeswater bull is commonly accounted the most profi- table beast for the market. Some have begun to make experi- ments on the Hereford breed ; but the process is not yet sufficiently advanced to warrant any practical conclusion as to the suitableness of this stock to our pasture and climate. Calves are in a few cases allowed to suck, but generally are fed from the pail. There is nothing particularly deserving of notice in the kinds of horses used and bred for husbandry purposes. As the soil is generally light, and the greater proportion of the fields free from steep as- cents, the animals usually preferred are rather of a slender and active than of a heavy make, and are of a moderate size. Agricultural Association. — There is in the district an Agricultu- ral Association of many years standing, though of late remodelled} which holds its regular meetings here, for promoting and suggest- ing improvements in husbandry. Each member pays 5s. annually to form a fund for premiums, given for the best specimens of breed- ing stock, the best samples of seed oats, &c. as awarded by judges selected for the purpose. An additional half-crown is contributed by several, if not by most, of the members for procuring a few pe- riodicals and books upon agriculture, to be circulated among the contributors. There are still two lint-mills kept up, and occasionally but im- perfectly employed. The culture of flax was almost entirely discontinued a few vears back, but of late a little more has beea done in that line. There are two wool-mills, with spinning jennies, and looms for weaving woollen cloth. At one of them, Millbrake, the copartnery of proprietors, the most of whom are operatives themselves, besides working to the public, to which the operations OLD DEER. 159 ofthe. other, at Aden, are chiefly restricted, manufacture, on their own adventure, considerable quantities of the coarser sorts of woollen cloth, and of yarn for stockings. The number of hands of both sexes and of all ages, usually employed in the different de- partments of the work is about 30, receiving ^from 12s. to Ids. weekly of wages. This larger establishment has a dye-house and a waulk or fulling-mill. There are other two dyers in separate stations possessed of similar mills, who tind pretty steady and abundant employment from the country. Connected with manufactures, there are, in addition to such as work almost exclusively for people in the country, no fewer than about 47 persons, some male, some female, presently employ- ed, for the most part, in the vtUage of Stewartfield, weaving linen yarn of different degrees of fineness, for the large house at Broadford, Aberdeen, which was erected by Mr Maberly, and now belongs to Messrs Richard and Co. As the hands are paid by the piece, they are not obliged to labour any precise number of hours a day. An expert and active individual would earn at the present rate of prices, about 6s. or 7s. in the space of ten or twelve hours. Were any change of circumstances to remove or greatly diminish this employment, many a poor villager and cot- tager, who derives from it a moderate livelihood, would be at a loss how to earn their bread. The state of the country, especially as it affects infirm or aged females, is altered much for the worse, by the introduction and extensive use of machinery for spinning flax, and knitting stockings. No farther back than the beginning of the present century, any woman could have found more work in this way than it was in her power to accomplish, and, if she was tolera- bly acquainted with the business, could have won with ease, and by a species of work well suited to the sex, from 8s. to 4s. a-week. Now, it requires no small interest to find even occasionally some- thing to do in that line, and the allowance is scarcely a third of what it then was. This cause alone, though it stands not alone, might account for the increase of pauperism, and the proportion- ate demand on public charity. If those in better circumstances could devise means for procuring employment, and giving mode- rate remuneration, to such as need and could profit by it, relief administered in this form would be incomparably more serviceable than a direct alms of the same value. It would do much to keep alive that honourable spirit of industry and independence, so far as independence consists in a desire not to be burdensome to others, 160 ABEKDEENSHIRE. which has long adorned our peasantry, and been a fair feature of our national character. Associations of benevolent and patriotic individuals formed with this end in view at Elgin and in other places, are said to do much good at little expense. ^V. — Parochial Economy. Roads and Public Conveyances. — There are only two turnpike roads in the parish, crossing one another at Mintlaw in Longside, the one in the direction of north to south, leading from Fraser- burgh to Aberdeen, and the other of east to west, from Peterhead to Banff. The former extends in Old Deer over a space of about eight miles ; and the latter, of four. Mail-coaches pass and re- pass along both lines daily. A stage coach also, for the greater part of two years back, has been in the use of travelling between Aberdeen and Old Deer every day in summer, and twice or thrice a week in winter. It is much against the ease and speed of jour- neying in the direction it takes, that the road for five miles from the starting-place here is very imperfectly made, and fully worse planned. A new road is much wanted, and has been long project- ed, passing nearly in a straight line from the Banff turnpike near the village of Old Deer towards Ellon, and through an extensive tract of waste or ill cultivated country, which is of difficult access at present. The opening up of a communication in this route would be a matter of great public utility — shortening the distance to Aberdeen by several miles. Were some of the heritors, through whose ground it would pass, to make the greater part of the road at their own expense, it is probable they might soon find that they were not great losers in so doing. Nor is this the only direction where the want of good roads is felt. Several other districts are very ill situate in this respect. Indeed, unless the landed interest in general see the policy of pursuing the course chalked out for them by several spirited proprietors, and make roads where they are wanted in their own estates at their own expense, the money levied by statute might be found sufficient to keep them in a proper state of repair, but in most cases is utterly inadequate to accomplish the whole object. The nearest post-town is Mintlaw in Longside, about two miles from the village of Old Deer, and three from Stewartfield, from both of which places a runner, paid by the public, goes twice a- day to the post-office. State of the Parish Church and other Ecclesiastical Matiers.^^ The parish church, fitted up to contain 1200 sitters, was built io OLD DEER. 161 1786^ and tbe manse in 1832. The offices are of different ages. The stipend, as settled and modified by the proper court in 1824, consists of 16 chalders of victual, one-half barley (Linlithgow measure), and the other half oatmeal, paid according to the fiar prices, which, whatever be the cause, are almost invariably for the county of Aberdeen, the lowest by far throughout Scotland. The glebe is considerably above the statute and common size ; and, owing to the improvements it has received from the present in- cumbent and his predecessors, though in all probability the greater part of it some time ago was a profitless waste, might be let, si- tuate as it is, at from L. 40 to L. 50 a-year. A neat chapel, capable of containing about 700 sitters, was built in 1834 in the south-east extremity of New Deer, by which a por- tion of this parish lying to the south is so far accommodated, as well as part of New Deer, Ellon, and Tarves, comprehending al- together a population of at least 1500 souls, the nearest of whom to any other place of worship connected with the Establishment is distant between three and four miles. The expense of erec- tion was defrayed by subscriptions from the heritors and tenants of the district, collections from most of the churches belonging to the presbyteries of Deer and Ellon, and a liberal grant from the General Assembly's Committee on Church Extension. There is no debt upon the building; and the four clergymen whose pa- rishes are accommodated have agreed, with the assistance of a licensed preacher, to have in it every Sabbath the regular order of public service, until some better provision than a small sum arising from seat rents, the only revenue at present, can be ob- tained for the settlement and support of an ordained 'clergyman specially invested with a pastoral charge. The collections are appropriated to the benefit of the poor. Another chapel was contracted for and built in 1837, on the south extremity of Lonmay, and near the north boundary of this parish, from resources similar to those above specified, for the accommo- dation of the most remote inhabitants of Strichen, and of the other two parishes just named. Ceuld means be procured for building and endowment, there is also much need of a church, with its requisite appendages, to- wards the south-east corner of this parish, which would be within a convenient distance of the remote parts of Lx)ngside, Cruden, and Ellon. Collections, not illiberal, have been made in the parish church ABERDEEN. L 162 ABERDEENSHIRE. from lime to time, for the propagation of Christianity in foreign parts for the education of youth, and for the purposes of Church Extension. There has been for many years a Bible Society in Buchan, which has usually held its annual meeting in the chureh al OM Deer. The number of communicants, hitherto increasing mueh in the same ratio as the population of the parish, that may be slated as attending on any particular occasion of dispenmng the Lord's Supper, is about 1500; but the total number of persons in full communion is about 1700. Poor. — The average amount of collections for the poor, augaient- ed also of late with the necessity, though not in the due proportion, may be set down at about L. 110. This, with the interest of some money placed under the management of the kirk-session, arising from bequests, donations, fines, &c. has enabled them to distribute for the relief of the poor, and some small contingent expenses, as fol- lows, viz. in 1831, L. 139, 3s. 3id. ; in 1832, L. 155, Os. 4d.; in 1833, L. 168, 18s. 8d. ; in 1834, L. 175, 16s. 2d. ; and in 1835, L. 184, 3s. 74d. The average number of persons, or rather of families getting supply, each of these years, is considerably above 100, varying, according to circumstances, from L. 7 to little more than L. 1 to regular pensioners, and descending to still smaller sums for some of those who require and receive only occasional aid. The poor's funds are much assisted by the rents of the piece of ground mortified by the late Mr S. Burnett of Dens, already no- ticed, and by the periodical receipt of L. 50 from a fund left by the same munificent gentleman, under the management of the synod of Aberdeen, for the benefit of the poor throughout all the parishes within the county. To complete an account of the means which the kirk-session presently possesses for helping the poor, it remains to he stated that, in addition to the interest of a legacy of L. 100 from two parishioners (Mr and Mrs Florence, late at West Crichie,) for the special behoof of pauper lunatics, most of the Dissenting bodies are in the practice of making a collection an- nually for the same purpose, and that L. 4 a year have been re- ceived from the proprietor of Pitfour to be distributed among the indigent on his own estate, and half that sum from the trustees on the lands of Clachriah, to be disposed of in a similar manner. Education, — There are three parochial schoolmasters provisioned by statute since 1829. Each of their seminaries is between three 4 .■ i OLD DEER. 163 and four miles distant from the others. The two last established, at Shannas and Clochean, had for a few years a teaching apart- ment and other accommodations provided for them voluntarily by the heritors and people, and a small salary each from the General Assembly's Committee on Highland Schools. The land-owners, however, much to their credit, at the last adjustment of salary in terms of the Act 1802, not only agreed to give the maximum sa- lary required, in the case of there being more schools than one established in a parisbj L. 51 and odds, but have since, of their own accord, very generously assessed themselves for L. 20 more, in order to bring the two worst provided teachers within reach of getting the benefit of the Dick Bequest The original, and what may be considered as the principal, teacher, from the site of the school being at Old Deer, has Lb 31, 6s. 7d. of yearly salary, and each of the other two L. 20. The number of scholars fluctuates according to the season of the year and other circumstances, from 40 to 100 at each. The school-fees actually collected average about L 30, and the teachers have hitherto received nearer L. 30 than L. 20 from the Trustees of the late Mr Dick. There are other two parochial schools, the one at Mintlaw in Longside, and the other at Denhead in Lonmay, that lie contiguous to, and accommodate, certain districts of this parish. There is also a teacher, whose school is well attended and well taught, settled some years ago, with a small salary furnished by the representatives of one of the heritors, and some of the principal tenants, on the west boundary between Old and New Deer, about one-half of the scholars being from this parish. And in the village of Stewartfield, there is seldom wanting a person who keeps a school on his own adventure, without receiving any other remuneration for his services than what arises from fees. Different females, here and there, receive girls and children to be taught needle-work with reading; so that, at the seasons of the year most convenient for school atten- dance,'nearly 500 young persons are attending some educational in- stitution. Libraries. — There is no library yet instituted, strictly speaking parochial ; but there are fully 200 volumes belonging to the ori- ginal parish school, purchased from the interest of money left for the purpose by a Mr Shirras, a native of this parish, who died in America. Friendly Societies. — There remains now only one of these, the Society of Hammermen, which is in a tolerably flourishing state. iG4 ABERDEENSHIRE. Savings Banks. — A bank of this description was opened here in 1825 ; and the stock, lodged chiefly, if not solely, by persons of small capital, in the rank of servants or mechanics, has been gra- dually augmenting. The amount of funds presently, or, at the time of the last annual meeting, under the charge of the directors, is L.1576, 5s. lOd. belonging to 98 depositors. Mrs Ferguson of Pitfour, with a very praiseworthy intention, has been mainly instrumental in organizing a Penny-a- week Clothing So- ciety, after the model of some similar institutions that have been tried and found beneficial in England. The object in view is to promote a spirit of industry and economy among the poor, by inducing them to pay a penny every week to a collector, in the hope that some indivi* duals in better circumstances will encourage the scheme by an equal payment for the behoof of one or more in whom they may feel a special interest, — so that by the accumulation of both sums, amounting to 8s. 8d. at the end of the year, means may be obtained to purchase for them some comfortable and often much wanted articles of wearing apparel or bedding. Fair 8 J Sfc. — The principal fairs are Aikey, held on the Wednes- day after the second Tuesday of July O. S. and Dustan or St Dustan's, on the corresponding day of December, both principally for the sale of cattle and horses, although, not many years back, there used to be brought to them a considerable quantity and variety of commodities manufactured at home. It seems to have been the intention, if not the usage, to have a fair here every month through- out the year; but, with the exception of the two mentioned, and three others of inferior note, viz. on second Thursday of January O Sw, on second Thursday of March O.S., and one lately established in September, all the rest have entirely disappeared. Fuel — There is no very extensive and deep field of peat moss re- maining. Yet there are several districts or spots where fuel of that kind is still procured, Hythie, Clachriah, Greenbrae, Clochcan, Annochie, Blackpots, Skelmuir, and Kinmundy. The Moss of Deer, as well as some of those just mentioned, is nearly exhausted ; but this circumstance is not much to be regretted, because, all things considered, sea-borne coals can be procured at fully as cheap a rate in most cases, and because it is to be expected that when these damp and soft wastes are removed, and the places where they were, brought into tillage, the climate in the vicinity will be greatly improved. OLD DEER. \65 Miscellaneous Observations. Upon the whole, we conceive, that within the last forty years, great improvements have been made upon the value, comfort, and aspect of the country. In course of that period, the two great lines of communication by turnpike roads have been opened up, several other useful roads have been formed anew or greatly re- paired, — much barren land has been brought into cultivation, — a greatly improved system of husbandry introduced, — mill-multures with thirlage to mills abolished, — more attention paid to the selec- tion and breeding of live-stock, — leases of moderate duration sub- stituted for liferent tenures, — a greater facility of market provided for farm produce, — and a more liberal allowance granted by pro- prietors generally to their tenants for houses, fences, and drainage, — while they' themselves, in consequence of improvements made by themselves or their tenantry, the changed value of money, and an ex- cessive competition for tenements, when encouragement or opportu- nity is afforded for it, — have had their rent-rolls greatly increased. The actual state of the different properties in the parish in this re- spect, at present, has not been ascertained; but, reason ingfrom known facts, there can be little doubt that, if the ground in the natural oc- cupation of the heritors were fairly let, the gross rental would exceed by about a half in sterling money, the old Scotch valuation of L.7127, 16s. -8d. Nor is there a less marked alteration in the dress, diet, furniture, and manners of almost every class of the people. Whether the real piety, virtue, and happiness of the com- munity have progressed in the same ratio, may well be questioned. January 1840. PARISH OF FINTRAY. PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JOHN LESLIE, \ Mini^u^M THE KEV. WILLIAM LESLIE, A. & S. /^»'"«*^'' L — Topography and Natural History. Same. — The name of this parish is supposed to be Gaelic, and to signify the fair bank or boundary of the river. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is situated in that district of the county of Aberdeen which is called Formartin, and extends from five to six miles in length along the north bank of the river Don, and from three to four in breadth — containing about fifteen square miles. Boundaries^ Sfc. — It is bounded on the south by the river Don, which separates it from the parishes of Dyce, Kinellar, and Kin* tore; by the parish of Keith-hall, on the north and west; and by New Machar, on the east. Its shape has some resemblance to that of an Irish harp, with the broad end turned to the east The ground rises gradually from the river towards the north to the height of perhaps 300 feet ; but there is nothing in this pa-^ rish that deserves the name of a hill. It sinks again towards the north boundary of the parish. Climate, — The climate, in general, is dry, early, and healthy ; and from the extent of ditches, drains, and other improvements which are carried on, — partly by the heritors and partly by the ten- ants, — the climate will be much improved. Hydrography. — The only river connected with this parish is the Don, already mentioned, which runs from west to east, and falls into the sea near Old Aberdeen. There are three burns also, which supply as many meal and barley mills, with a kiln attached to each of them. Geology. — The parish abounds with granite of excellent qua- lity ; and there is also some limestone ; but, owing to the scar- city of fuel, it is not converted into lime. The soil is va- rious. Along the bank of the river it consists of deep, rich, haugh land. Further removed from the river the land coosisls FINTRAY. 167 chiefly of light early soil of good quality. In the middle or ele- vated district the soil is very much inferior, consisting partly of peat«mosS| and partly of moor, interspersed with considerable and yearly increasing patches of arable land. In the north district of the parish, the soil is much better, and there are several well cul- tivated farms. Live^Stock.'^A great number of cattle (chiefly of the Aber- deenshire breed) are reared and fed in this parish, many of which grow to a very considerable size* There are also some fine horses reared. Scarcely any sheep are reared ; and few are fed, except on the lawns of Fin tray House and Disblair. Zoology. — Formerly the river Don abounded with salmon and very fine trout ; but the cruives and dam-dikes, erected by manu- facturing companies in the parishes of Old Machar and Newhills, have almost ruined the fishings; and have given rise to many dis- putes between the upper heritors and manufacturing companies. Hares and partridges are in abundance ; but no rare species of ani- mals are found. Wood. — Upwards of 600 acres of the surface of the parish are covered with wood, of various ages and kinds, and all in a thriv- ing condition. 11. — Civil History. Heritors. — The principal heritor of this parish is Sir John For- bes, Bart of Craigievar, who is patron of the parish, proprietor of somewhat more than the half of it, and the only residing heri- tor. The other heritors are, the Earl of Fife ; Mr Ramsay of Barra ; and the Rev. Dr Morison of Disblair, — who have lands of considerable extent and value ; also General Benjamin Forbes of Balbithan ; and William Gordon Gumming Skene, Esq. of Pit- lurg and Dyce, who have small properties in this parish. The rental of the parish is supposed to be nearly L. 5000 Sterling. The valued rent is L. 3007, 8s. 4d. Scots. Antiquities. — There are two cairns in the parish, but their ori- gin is unknown. The present minister when improving his glebe dug up the foundations of some buildings, supposed to have be- longed to the Abbacy of Lindores, in Fife ; a branch of which is 45aid to have stood where the principal burning ground of this pa- rish now is; in which burying ground, a vault of extraordinary strength was built a few years ago by the parishioners, to se- cure dead bodies from resurrectionists; from whence, after re- maining perhaps three months or more, the bodicsare removed 168 ABERDEENSHIRE. and regularly interred.* The proprietor of the lands of Fintray collects and pays to the Exchequer the feu-duties which belonged to the Abbacy of Lindores — several of the landed estates in this part of the country holding of said Abbacy, and paying feu-doty thereto. The buildings (denominated the Northern Abbey) are suppos« ed to have been erected about the year 1386, from a stone bearing that date having been observed many years ago in the dike of the burying ground, which had probably been composed of fragments of the demolished abbey, whereof no vestige now remains above the surface of the ground ; but foundations of its walls occasionally interrupt the digging of graves. The minister has in his possession a silver cup belonging to the parish, bearing date 1632, which tradition says was formed from a silver head of St Meddan, the tutelar saint of the parish ; which, in the days of Popish superstition, was wont to be carried through the parish in procession, for the purpose of bringing down rain^ or clearing up the weather, as circumstances might require. Modem Buildings. — The principal building in the parish is Fin- tray House, a large, elegant, and commodious mansion in the Tu- dor style, lately erected by Sir John Forbes, Bart There is also a neat and commodious house on the lands of Disblair, built in the cottage style, and of a size suited to the extent and value of the property attached. Historical Occurrences. — The most remarkable events in this parish, within the memory of the present generation, are the floods of the river Don, which were till of late years a very serious bar to agricultural improvements. The first great flood on record happened in the year 1768, which carried away the greater part of the crop from the haughs and level lands, at the period between reaping and stacking. A similar inundation took place in August 1799, which carried off considerable quantities of hay, and de- stroyed, in a great measure, the grain crop, the whole of which stood, at that time, on the ground uncut. A similar, but still higher flood, happened on 4th August 1829, when the river rose about fourteen feet above its ordinary level, and nearly eighteen inches higher than any flood of that river in the memory of the old- est person alive, and extending (where the river was not conGned by elevated lands or embankments) to from half to three-fourths of a mile in breadth. This extraordinary flood occasioned veiy serious losses to many individuals ; and had it not been for strong 3 FINTRAY. 169 embankmenta^ wbich had been erected a few years before, (some of which withstood, while others yielded to the impetuosity of the tor- rent,) the whole crop on the most valuable lands in the parish must have been completely destroyed. A great part of the haugh-Iand is now protected by embankments, on the lands of Fintray and Wester Fintray, extending to upwards of 6000 ells in length, and pro- tecting from 200 to 300 Scotch acres of very fine rich land, from the river floods. Parochial Seffisters* — The oldest record belonging to the kirk- session begins on 25th May 1662 ; but only fragments thereof remain, scarcely legible, and all in loose sheets. With the ex- ception of the register of baptisms, which appears to be pretty com- plete since the year 1728^ the registers of this parish are rather defective. Minutes appear to have been kept, but seldom en- tered in a bound book, previously to the year 1795 — since which time regular records have been kept. III. — Population. In 1790 the population was 920 IBll, by the census, 8S2 1821, . . 996 18S1, . . 1046~viz. 519 males, 527 females. 1839, . . 1012 The decrease between 1790 and 181 1 seems to have been owing to two or more small farms having been occasionally thrown into one. The. average number of births in this parsh for the last seven years is 26 per annum ; of deaths, 13; of marriages, 13. The number of families, by census of 1831 was 225 ; inhabited houses, 215 ; fatuous persons, 2. Number of illegitimate births during the last three years 6. CharacieTf ^c. of the People. — -The people, in general, are ac- tive and industrious, and, with a very few exceptions, they are tem- perate. They enjoy, in a moderate degree, the comforts and ad- vantages of society. IV. — Industry. Number of imperial acres in the parish, cultivated or occasionally in tillage, betwiit . • 5000 and 60('0 never cultivated, and remaining constantly waste or in pasture, about . . 800 under wood, betwixt . 600 and 700 Produce. — More than three-fourths of the population depend for employment and subsistence on agricultural concerns. The chief productions of the parish are oats, bear (sometimes barley), pease, hay, potates, and turnip, of which latter crop a very con- 170 ABERDEENSHIRE. siderable breadth is sown annually, the soil being particularly adapted to turnip husbandry. Bents. — Arable land rents from 15s. to L. 2, 15s. per acre^ ac- cording to its quality ; — average about L. 1, 5s. per acre. There is a very considerable extent of barren ground in the lands both of Fintray and Wester Fintray, which might be ren- dered useful by being either cultivated or planted. And the ju- dicious improvements of draining and inclosing, which Sir John Forbes has introduced on his lands, and which are being carried on, partly by himself and partly by his tenants, will, it is to be hop- ed, cause the barren district of the parish to present a more cheer^ ing aspect at no distant period. For, notwithstanding the clamours of agricultural distress, improvements were never carried on here with greater spirit than at present. Farm-houses and offices have been greatly improved in appear- ance within the last forty years, and the occupants are much better clothed, and fed, and lodged. Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years — a space too short for encouraging an enterprising tenant to lay out his capital on improvements, with any reasonable prospect of ad- vantage. Next to the agricultural population may be mentioned trades- men of various crafts, who reside in the parish, such as 4 black- smiths ; 4 masons ; 8 carpenters ; 4 tailors ; 6 shoemakers ; 3 millers; 2 sawyers; 1 watchmaker or mechanic, and 4 shopkeepers: amounting in all to about 36, independently of their families. Manufactures. — The only manu&cture of this parish is that of fine woollen cloth, by the Messrs Crombie, at Cothal Mills, which was begun about the year 1798, under a different firm, and has been carried on since that period without intermission. Mr John Crombie has conducted it since 1806. It produces, on an ave- rage, from 7500 to 8000 yards per annum, of the value of from 14s. to 24s. per yard. This branch of business, principally owing to the number of complicated and variable processes, through which the material must pass before it be brought out in a finished state, is attended with several difficulties, and is almost confined to three or four counties in the west of England and Yorkshire. These difficulties have been overcome here, by encouraging Eng- lish operatives to settle in this country ; and the business is now managed by an English foreman over each different department, having under his inspection Scotch and English labourers, who FINTRAY. 171 perform the operative parts. The advantages which attend the manufacture of cloths here, are a plentiful supply of excellent water, and a powerful water&U, which saves the expenses of steam- power. Wages are also lower here than in manufacturing districts where provisions are high. Considerable encouragement has been given to this manufactory by the Board of Trustees for the En- couragement of Manufactures in Scotland, who have annually given considerable premiums, in the gaining of which the Messrs Crombie have been very successful. Since the year 1836, a branch of manufacture has sprung up in the south of Scotland, which has had the effect of considerably decreasing the consumpt of fine cloths throughout the kingdom. The article alluded to is plaid, or what is now more usually de- nominated ^^ tweed.** The managers at Cothal Mills, finding that their clothing machines were particularly well adapted to the ma- nufacture of this article, by working finer wools than were gene- rally used for these goods, soon produced stuffs that found a ready market in London as well as in Scotland. The consequence has been, that, from the steady deniand, they have been enabled to double their production, and of course the number of hands has been increased. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'TotDUj Sfc. — Fintray is distant from Aberdeen, the nearest market^town, from eight to thirteen miles ; from six to seven of which miles are turnpike, and the rest good commutation roads. The road from Keith-hall to Aberdeen divides the parish into nearly two equal parts. Ecclesiastical State. — The present church of Fintray was built in 1821, and is neat,' substantial, and commodious. It is the only place of worship in the parish. It is about equally distant from the east and west boundaries of the parish, but much nearer to the south boundary than the north. It would accommodate nearly 800 persons, having been purposely built large, to meet an increase of population. It is divided among the heritors in the proportion of their valued rents ; the heritors subdivide it among their tenants, and no seat-rents are demanded or paid. The average number of communicants is about 450. The congregation, on an ordinary Sabbath and favourable day, may be reckoned a full half of the gross population. There are only a few Dissenters in the parish, and not one of these is a native of the parish ; almost the whole of them belong to the Cothal Mills' Manufactory. 172 ABERDEENSHIRE. The present manse was built in 1804. The glebe measures nearly 6 acres, about two of which were reclaimed by the pre- sent incumbent from barren ground ; and the greater part of the glebe (both old and new) is land of inferior value. The stipend consists of sixteen chalders of victual, the one-half meal, the other half barley, payable by the fiar prices of the county, together with L. 8^ 6s. 8d. for communion elements. Schools, — There are two schools in the parish, besides two Sabbath schools, one of them conducted by the minister, viz. the parochial, which is well situated for tlie southern (the more popoulous) district of the parish ; and a school, built and endowed by the proprietor of Disblair, for the accommodation of the northern district. The parochial teacher enjoys a school-house, with two small rooms for his own accommodation, a salary of L. 28 Sterling, and a quarter of an acre of garden ground. Average number of scholars from 60 to 70, and school-fees may amount to L. 20 per annum. The teacher of the other school receives as salary, the interest of 1^. 200, mortified for that purpose by the Rev. Dr Morison, proprietor of Disblair, together with a school-house, dwelling-house, and gar- den, for a nominal rent of 5s. per annum. Number of scholars from 40 to 50. School-fees may, perhaps, amount to L. 15 or L.16 per annum. The teacher ofiiciates as precentor, and re* ceives L. 3 per annum. The branches usually taught in the parochial school are, read- ing, writing, arithmetic, Latin, (now seldom required,) English grammar, geography, mensuration, mathematics, and sometimes book-keeping. Most of the above branches are also taught at the school at Disblair. School- fees vary from 2s. 6d. to 5s. per quar- ter, according to the branches taught,' but they are often not re- gularly paid. The Dick bequest to the parochial schoolmasters in Aberdeen, Banff, and Murrayshires, now makes their situation comfortable. There are exceedingly few persons (if any) in this parish who cannot read ; and it is believed that (with a few exceptions among the aged) all of them have more or less knowledge of writing. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There is not a beggar belonging to the parish. Only one person of that description has resided in the parish in the course of the last forty years ; and, as that person begged more from avarice than necessity, the kirk-session gave him the choice of desisting from public begging, or of allowing his name to be expunged from the pauper roll. By the advice of his FINTHAY. 173 wife, who had practised the begging trade iu Aberdeen before her marriage, he preferred the latter. The average number of persons receiving parochial relief, may vary from 20 to 25, receiving from L. 1 to L. d» 10s. per annum. The annual amount of funds under the management of the kirk-session may be reckoned from * L. 60 to L. 65 per annum, (burdened with the expense of the ses- sion, precentor, beadle, &c. in all about L. 5,) arising from week- ly collections in the church, (L. 40 to L. 45,) interest of L. 220 ; donations from non-residing heritors, pall-dues and other casual- ties. Besides the weekly collections for the ordinary poor, annual collections, of very considerable amount, are made for the Infir- mary and Lunatic Asylum at Aberdeen ; and a collection was late- ly made in aid of the Indian mission. The poor of this parish owe a large debt of gratitude to Sir John and the Honourable Lady Forbes of Craigievar, who, of late years, have given several donations ; among which may be men- tioned one of L. 20, and another of L. 10, for the immediate re- lief of the poor, besides their very liberal collections in the church on ordinary Sundays: and well-judged supplies of clothing, coal, meal, and other things, to the more necessitous, during the incle- ment season of the year. It is but justice to the poor of this parish, to say, that few ap- ply for parochial aid, before they stand in actual need of it ; and in some cases, it has been necessary to press it urgently and repeat- edly before it was accepted. At the same time, it cannot be de- nied, that some few have been found of a contrary disposition. Subscriptions are sometimes successfully made for an individual, or &mily, who have met with any misfortune. A blacksmith, who died in this parish some years ago, be- queathed to the kirk-session, L. 70 Sterling ; the interest of L.40 to be applied to the education of poor children ; and the interest of L. 30, towards the clothing of aged and indigent females belong- ing to and residing in the parish. These small funds are useful at the present time. And another blacksmith, in like manner, dis- poned to the kirk-session, feu-duties to the annual value of L.IO 13s. 6d., for charitable purposes in this parish ; to take effect, un- der the eye of the kirk-session, upon the death of certain persons named in the disposition. Poor rates are happily unknown and unnecessary here. In this parish there are neither markets, saving banks, nor cir- culating libraries. 174 ABERDEENSHIRE. Inns. — There are at present two inns or alebouM% one of which would suffice. One of them has been lately erected, and ia au excellent and substantial building, with good accommodation — possessing many attractions for such as prefer rural pleasures to the gaieties of a town during the summer and autumnal months. Fuel. — The fuel hitherto most commonly used was peat and turf, from a moss in the parish, but that moss being now in a great measure exhausted, coals, brought from Aberdeen, begin to be generally used. Miscellaneous Observations* Northern- Abbey ofLindores. — When the Abbacy of Lindores was suppressed at the Reformation, it was erected into a temporal lordship, in favour of Leslie, Lord Lindores, who acquired from the Crown an heritable right to collect the feu-duties formerly paid by the vassals of that Abbacy, and to account for the same to the Crown. That part of the Abbacy's rights which lay north of the Tay was afterwards acquired from the Lindores family by the family of Craigievar, who, as heritable collectors, have ever since uplifted these feu-duties, accounted and paid them to the Exchequer, and received for that trouble an annual allowance of L. 5 Sterling. The sum thus paid to the Exchequer is L. 73, 13s. l$gd. Rents. — The highest rent paid for a farm in this parish at pre- sent is L. 400 per annum, — the lowest Is. Sterling. Cropping. — Some of the very deep haugh land has been worked, for some time past, on a four years' shift, viz. oats, turnip, bear, hay ; but a five years shift (including one year of hay and another of pasture grass,) is by most farmers deemed preferable. On the infield or medium lands, a six or seven years' shift is gene- rally adopted, and on the outfield or inferior soils, a shift of not less than seven years, — three or more of which they are in grass. Reaping. — About the year 1810, William Anderson, a farmer in Hatton of Fintray, began to cut down his crop with a scythe in- stead of a sickle. But this mode of reaping, which is now uni- versally practised in Aberdeenshire, did not become general till two or three years after. The process of reaping is more expeditiously carried on by four scythes than by any other number, viz. four cutters, four gath«^ ers, four binders, two stookers, and one raker, the binders mak« ing the bands. These fifteen persons may be supposed to finish about six acres per day. January 1840. PARISH OF NEW DEER. PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES WELSH, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — New Debr was originally a part of the ancient parish of Deer, from which it was disjoined not long after the Revolution. It is termed in the ancient records Auchreddy^ from the name of the land in which the church is situated. This name is engraved on the communion cups and plates, with the date 1694. Like other Scottish names, it is of Gaelic origin, as are many other names in the parish, such as Auchaach^ AuchmaUddy^ Auchna" ffatty AuchmunzieL Extent, Sfc. — It is one of the largest parishes in the county of Aberdeen. Its greatest length from north to south is upwards of 14 miles. Its greatest breadth from east to west upwards of 8^ miles. Its contents upwards of 50 square miles. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Stri- chen, Tyrie, and Aberdour ; on the west, by the parishes of King £dward, Monquhitter, Methlic, and Tarves ; on the south, by the parish of £llon ; on the east, by the parish of Old Deer. T4fpoffraphical Appearances. — With the exception of the hill of Mormond, New Deer is the highest ground in Buchan. No part of it, however, rises higher than 200 or 300 feet above the level of the sea. From the hill of Culsh, in the neighbourhood of the 'viHage, may be seen in a clear day the spire of Peterhead, about eighteen miles distant to the eastward. And, looking west, may be seen Bennachie, about twenty-five or twenty-eight miles off, the Foudland Hills, the hills in the neighbourhood of Banff and CuUen, and Benrinnis, in the county of Moray. The elevation of the hill of Cross Gight is rather higher than that of Culsh. Hydrography. — There are no streams that deserve the name of rivers in this parish, the country being in general flat and all arable. It will give some idea of its elevation to mention, that 1 76 ABERDEENSHIRE. branches of three rivers, running in three different directions, take their rise in the north part of this parish, not far -from each other. One of them flows eastward towards the Ugie, passing Old Deer, and entering the German Ocean north of Peterliead. Another flows westward, and joins a stream that falls into the De- veron, which empties itself into the Moray Frith at Banff! A third flows south-westward, and joins the Ythan near Gight, which falls into the German Ocean at the Newburgh. All these three are but small streams. Though New Deer is in the centre of a circle seventeen or eight- een miles distant from the sea on three sides, yet from its elevation the climate is cold ; the snow lies long, and often delays the opera- tions of husbandry. The south and west winds are most prevalent ; they are more violent than the east or north. But though the cli- mate is cold, it is dry and healthy, and the inhabitants live to a great age, many exceeding eighty or ninety years. The prevailing distempers are inflammatory complaints, arising probably from the people using too much oatmeal. Scrofula, too, is very common, as also are consumptions and gravellish complaints. Soil. — The soil in general, with few exceptions, is light and shal- low. It would answer well for agriculture if it were not for the cli- mate and the subsoil. A great proportion of the parish rests on a hard rocky pan of from 6 inches to 2 feet thick, which prevents the surface water from sinking into the earth, and keeps the soil wet till the sun evaporates the moisture. This pan prevents trees from thriving and coming to any size. Attempts have been made, and in some cases successfully, to break up this pan, and give the surface water a passage into the earth. In some parts the subsoil is moss on coarse clay, on others it is mixed with a coarse granite. Lime of indifferent quality is found in the land of Barrack. The farmers quarry it for themselves, and burn it either for building or for putting on the land. There is plenty of moss in the parish, though it is wearing away apace either by improvement, or by consumption as fuel. The part of it that has been cultivated, produces excellent crops when mixed with shell sand from the sea side. The country appears to have been once covered with wood, from the remains of trees that are dug out of the mosses, though it is somewhat remarkable that none of these trees are fir. II. — Civil History. The materials for the history of this parish are very scanty. The NEWOBEB. 177 inhabitants are a primitiTe race of people, and in many respects as far advanced in civilisation as their neighbours. They have but small encouragement for improvement, as there are no resident heri- tors to set them an example. Dr Mavor, a celebrated compiler of voyages, travels, && was a native of this parish, being born in the land of Culsh. Heritors. — There are nine heritors; of these only two have houses in the parish, and reside there occasionally. The heritors are, The Earl of Aberdeen ; Mr D. Dingwall of Brucklaw ; Mr Gor- don of Caimbanno and New Deer ; Mr Gordon of Nethermuir, Mr Dingwall Fordyce of Culsh; Captain Ferguson of Pitfour; Mr Forbes Irvine of Schivas; the Trustees of Mr Gordon of Murtle ; and the Trustees of the late Mr Simpson of CoUeyhilL The proprietors of Brucklaw and Nethermuir have residences in the parish. Parochial Registers. — The session records commence 1705. A portion of them, from 1727 to 1734, is lost. Since that period they have been regularly kept ; apd the old practice is still continued of entering each Sunday the text and the name of the minister who preaches. Antiquities. — There are, or rather there were, many remains of Druidical temples and funeral monuments, to be seen in the parish. One of them, about a mile north of the village, still retains the name of the Standing Stones of Culi^, though the stones stand there no longer, having been taken away, about seventy years ago, to build the old manse. There are occasionally found many tumuli, which, when opened, contain urns of baked clay, filled with human bones and ashes. Not long ago, a fkrmer in the neighbourhood of the vil- lage, in improving a piece of ground, dug up six of these. These urns had neither top nor bottom. They were like chimney cans of baked clay, rudely formed, about 15 inches long, and filled with bones and ashes. Two miles north of the village, stands the old Castle of Fedde- rate, now a complete ruin. Nearly all the best stones have been taken away by the farmers for building. It appears to have been once a place of considerable strength. It stands now in the mid- dle of a field. A morass, now drained and improved, surrounded it, and the only access to it was by a causeway and a draw-bridge. Water, it seems, had been conveyed to it by means of pipes, for pieces of them have, aidifierent times, been torn up by the plough. There is no tradition as to when it was built. The floors are all ABERDEEN. M 1 7S ABBRDEENSHIRE. arched with stone. It came into the possession of the Inrines of Drum, and is now the property of Lord Aberdeen.* It is said to have been one of the last strongholds of James XL's partisans, who^ after the battle of Killiecrankie, possessed themselves of Fyrie Castle, and, being obliged to abandon it, took refuge in Fedder^ ate, but were pursued and expelled from thence by King William's troops. About a mile to the west of the village is an extensive piece of moor called Bruce Hill. This is said to have derived its name from Edward, brother to Robert the Bruce. Here he is reported to have encamped aflter the battle of Inverury, and from this to have gone in pursuit of the Cummins to a place near Old Deer^ called Aikey Brae. In memory of this victory, the market of Aikey fair is said to have been established on the spot where the battle was fought III. PoPULATIOlf. At the publication of the last Statistical Account, the popula- tion of New Deer was 2800, being 1324 males, and 1476 females* In 1801, the population was 2964 1811, - - - 8100 1821, . . . 3211, being 1486 malea, and 1625 femaks. 1831, ... 3525, being 1630 males, and 1805 ftmalea. From a survey taken lately on account of church extension, it was found to amount to 3621. It has been gradually increasing at the rate of one per cent, per annum, 10 percent, each census* There are between dOO and 400 of the population located in the village of New Deer. TbeaYerage annual number of baptisms, . 100 of marriages, about 30 of deaths, about 40 Under 15 years old» 619 males. . 578 females^ Between 15 and 30, 372 . 535 3D and 50, 299 . 419 50 and 70, 255 . 296 Above 70, 85 . 124 Unmarried men above 50, , 114 women or widows above 45, . 132 The number of families in the parish, . 775 Tbe average number of children to each fiunily, under 5 The number of houses, , . 775 None uninhabited. There are few or none blind, insane, deaf, or dumb. The nimi- ber of all in these classes does not exceed 5 or 6. Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 92. * Since this was written, the greater part of the lands of Fedderate has been aoldl to Mr D. Dingwall of Brucklaw, who is now by this purchase tbe principal in the paiish. NEW DEER. 179 IV. — Industry. The parish is entirely an agricultural parish, and all the inhabi- tants are in some way or other engaged in this occupation. The farms, in general, are small ; many of them mere crofts ; and consequent- ly, they are managed by the farmer's family. The contents of the parish in imperial acres are as under, be- longing to the respective heritors. Lord Aberdeen, Bruckla«r, Manar, Culsh, . Nethermuir, Pit four, • Murtle's Trt. Bjirrack, Auchnagatt, Arable. 1 Quality. A* A. F. Arable. 2d Quality. &. F. 754 1 6000 6642 268 244 1 120 1 146 72 3 146 2 22 d2 12! 7 20 36: 22 5239 4005 1043 601 1379 704 750 456 965 2 3 3 1 2 2 2 Pasture. ▲• a.. F. 27 7 39 9 2 15 20 13 880 283 301 131 155 91 2 1 1 1 2 11 12 15 Moor. A. a. F. Moss and Moor. A. a. F. 787 2 92805 3 37 25023 1521 384 3 25 410 11 345 10 188 2 U 438 0315 280 2 11 106 98 110 324 2 2 2 Wood. A. a. F. 2a 30 20 19 Imp. acres. i3017 1 3415166 2 12|l957 2 233587 264164 2 20(825 26 59 6 4 013 3 1 5 81 440 Lord Aberdeen, Brucklaw, • Manar, Culsh, Nethermuir, Pitfour, Murtle*s Trustees, Barrack, • Auchnagatt, Total of acres. A. B. F. 10,417 1 36 7.307 2,883 12 1,411 2 13 2,144 1 38 1,096 3 38 1,117 18 856 1 31 1785 3 29 I Imperial acres, 29,020 15 Valued rent. Scots. *L.1833 6 8 1133 6 8 490 12 6 266 13 4 306 246 17 9 282 9 9 133 6 8 466 13 4 L. 5159 6 8 Present rent. Sterling. L.3i00 1740 1185 5 530 700 419 8 6 479 14 7 285 19 500 L.8940 7 "T The first column contains the nine heritors ; the second and third columns, the land always in regular crop ; the fourth column is pas- ture, partly green and wet, and partly heather and dry; the fifth column is moss or heather, and has once been in cultivation, as ap- pears from the marks of ridges throughout it. The sixth column is the moss used for fuel, which, when not broken up, is pastured^ The seventh column is young planted wood, generally larches and Scotch firs. The only part of this that appears to be thriving is some planted fifteen years ago near Brucklaw. The fifth and sixth columns are diminishing by being taken into cultivation. Btntalj 4-c. — The average rent of the best land may be from L. 2 to L. 3 an acre ; the second quality from 10s. to L. 1. A * From Mr D. DingwatVs purchase of the lands of Fedderate, his valued rent has increased to upwards of L. 1800 Scots, while Lord Aberdeen's is only L.llOO. The ▼alued rents, howerer, are ni>t yet split, so as to determine it accurately. 180 ABERDEENSHIRE. very marked degree of improTemeni has takeo place in agriculture since the publication of last Statistical Account The rate of grazing for cattle is from L. 1 to L. 1» Ids. ahead ; of sheep from 5s. to 10s. Wages. — Labourers receive Is. 6d. a-day often hours and their meat, or 2s. a-day without meat Masons and carpenters work at the rate of dd. an hour. Live-stock, — The Buchan breed of cows is still much valued, and more so when crossed by the Teeswater. The smaller breeds are not now so saleable since live-stock has begun to be transport- ed to London. Husbandry. — The same system of cultivation is not pursued through the whole parish. A five or seven-shift is the general practice. The land lets very high ; the leases generally for nine- teen years, and some of them for life ; but these are dying away und not renewed. Farm* Buildings. — Farm-buildings are rather better than be- fore, though still far from what they ought to be. Some of the large farmers have made great improvements, and reclaimed large tracts of wet ground ; and if they had more capital, and were more encouraged by the proprietors, the improvements would be greater. Statistics of the produce of the different lands in the parish of New Deer. Boahdi Corbshill, AUathan, Cross Gight, Auchreddy and Drum, Auchmaliddy, Bedlam, Fedderate and Biub,* Broomhill, * Bonnykelly, * Whitestones, * SaTOck aod Inkhom, 1. Total produceof Lord Aberdeen's lands, Little Auchoach, Meikle Auchoacb, Wbitehill, Oldwbatt, Ironside, Artamford, 2. Total produce of Brucklaw's lands. Qrs. oats. } 252 438 288 728 894 149 1138 317 673 126 1494 6497 370 313^ 1047 608 654 550 Qrs. bear. 64 16 12 40 27 70 10 10 2 31 Bolls potatoes. 2244 13 16 34 10 27 35 35424lia54 865 49 96i 71 244 226 36 196 90 164 35 301 Acres turnips bay. 15081 81 85 266 148 109 176 241 414 31} 67 82 19 66 321 641 124 142 Stones 214 461 550 2188 2470 leo 3060 1320 1820 450 2190 583 88 65 534 56 3161 14888 1400 1500 2400 4050 2360 8605 15315 18 571 46 150 161 12 126 86 122 40 281 10561 55 46 1471 too 15B 6641 • The mater part of tbe lands of Fedderate, together witb the whole o£ Broomliilk Bonnykelly, and Whitestones, have been sold to Mr Dbgwall of Bruckkir. NEW DEER. 181 CairnlMniiOy AuchmuDxielf Little Auehreddy, a Total produce of Mr Cknrdon of} Manarli lands, . y 4. Total produce of the land of Culab» 5. Total dob ofNethennuir, Atherby Affleck, 6. Total produce of Pitfour's lands, 7. Oldinand,«-produce of MurtlD'iB ) Trustees lands, . { 8. Total produce of Barrack, 9. Total do. of Aucbnagatt, Qrs. Qrs. bear. Boils Acres potatoes tutnlpi Stones hay. Bushels rye-grass. 786 549 853 19 22 25 66 614 60 29 27 194| 113 243 1 78J 561 190 1861 753 2685 179 116 189 2188 ^504 5299 484 1211 2064 95 2105 III 1001 477 346 8144 984 6040 159 93 79 414 37 1344 530 1024 76 823 56 "46" 19 19 172 78i 1874 1784 1089 306 92 4120 196 546 1484 554 1140 138 1092 231 1094 ^9^0 190 Total produce of whole parish, 179894*687 1 44044 16174/52686 1 31794 The above items of produce were obtained by actual inquiry at the respective farmers. Of the 17989^ quarters of oats, not more than one-fifth can be reckoned as of first quality — that is, there are 3597 quarters of oats of first quality, the remainder, 14392^ quarters, are of second quality. The land of Brucklaw to the extent of 100 acres is laid out in grass, and let for pasture. In Artamford there are 55 acres of similar description ; in Nether- muir 40 acres ; and in Little Auchreddy 40 acres. Rent about L.2, 5s. per acre. Procfiice.— 'The following is as near an approximation as could be made to the amount of produce from the cultivated land as well as from the uncultivated : Oato (1st quality), 3597 quarters, at L.0 19 10 Oats (2d quality), 143924 ^o- «t 18 7 Bearorbi^K, 687 do. at 1 4 6 Potatoes, 4fi>l4 bolls, at 68. Hay, 10537 cwt. at Ss. 4d. Hay, producing 31794 bushels rye-graas at 2s. 6d. Turnips, 16174 acres at L.6, . Value of 5544 acres pasture and moorland, at 2s. Value of 1 79894 quarters fodder, at 6s. Value of 687 quarters do. at 5s. L.3567 1 6 13373 74 841 11 6 1321 7 1756 3 4 397 8 9 9705 554 8 5396 17 171 15 Total value of produce, L. 37064 12 84 Statistics of Horses^ Cattle^ and Sheep. Horses. Cattle. Lord Aberdeen's lands, - 253 1484 BrucUair*s do. . - - 168 1026 Mr Gordon of Manar% do. - 82 468 Mr Fordyce of Culsh's do. . - 35 173 Sheep. 264 242 60 23 S6 295 50 35 189 42 41 205 SO 26 171 12 26 179 2B ] 82 ABERDEENSHIRE. Hones. Cattle. Sheep. Mr Oordon of Nethennuir*8 do. Mr Ferguson of PitfouT*s do. Murtle*s Trustees, Old Maud, &o. Lands of Barrack, - - • Lands of Auchnagatt, Total, "724 4190 "751 V. — Parochial Economy. Village. — There is but one village in the parish, New Deer, containing upwards of 100 houses, 90 on the property of Mr Gordon of Manar, and the remainder on Lord Aberdeen's property. It lies on the ridge of a hill, and the fields decline to the east and to the west of the street It is situated nearly at an equal distance from Banff on the north-west ; Fraserburgh on the north-east; Peterhead on the east; and the Newburgh on the south. It is distant from Aberdeen nearly north thirty miles. Means of Communication.^^^Yieve is a daily post from Aber- deen, through Methlic, and the communication is carried on to Strichen, Peterhead, and New Pitsligo, and Banff. There are nearly 100 miles of roads in the parish ; a good road great part of the way from New Deer to Ellon, distant thirteen miles. The turnpike-road from Peterhead to Banff crosses the parish ; and a mail-coach regularly travels from Peterhead to Banff, and returns the same day. There is a stage-coach thrice a-week from Aberdeen to New and Old Deer and Strichen, through Ellon. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is a very old and ruin- ous building. There is a date on it of 1622. It is about seven miles from the north and south extremities of the parish. It is in a very bad state of repair ; but the heritors are about to erect a new one. The church being found too small, aq aisle was added in 1773. It is seated for 900 persons, and the seats belong to the tenants, who pay Is. 6d. a sitting at the commencement of their lease, which, when they quit their farms, they get back from the incom- ing tenant.* The manse was built in 1882, and is a commodious house. The glebe consists of 5 acres, value about L. 10, and a grass glebe of 5| acres, value about L. 5. The stipend is 16 chalders, half meal half barley, at the fiars price, with L. 10 for communion elements. Since this was written, a handsome church has been built, capable of eootainiliK 1500 persons, and the old church has been entirely demolished. NEW DEER. 183 To accommodate the people at the south of the parish^ and parts of the neighbouring pamhes of Old Deer, Ellon, Tarves, and a small portion of Methlic, a chapel has been erected at the cost of about L. 700, calculated to seat 700 persons ; but no mi- nister has been yet appointed for want of funds. It a ngularly supplied with dirine worship by the ministers of New Deer, Old Deer, Ellon, Tarves, and Methlic. There are three Dissenting meeting-houses belon^og to the United Secession in the parish. They were all established there before the ^me of the present incumbent. The ministers are paid by Toluntary contribution, some of them L.70 or L.80, and some- times less. In die north part of the paiish those who are at a distance irom the parish church are accommodated at the chapels of ease at New Byth and New Pitsligo. Statufict o/Nev Deer at to BeHgitM, KiWb. tburch U iscnicrs. ■s«ir Fnm i^ l\i_ I s ph.cb H Lord Aberdeen'* liindt, I45 3C5 536 903 41 112 "ise 3J6 Tm M[ Di rish churches; some at New Pitsh'go, some at New Byth, some at Methlic, aomettt Strichen, some at Old D^r, and some at Monquhitter. Males. Females. Total. 40 42 82 426 aoo 816 831 200 531 ST FEBOUS. 185 of the law compelling them to support their own poor would be very desirable. Fairs* — There are five fairs held in the village annually. One in April ; a feeing market in May ; and a market in June ; one in October, and a feeing market in November ; at all these, horses, cattle, sheep, &c. are exposed to sale. Inns. — There are three inns in the village. Two of them prin- cipal ones. Spirits are also sold by most of the retailers of tea and tobacco. These, however, through the whole parish, do not ex- ceed eight or nine. JFVceL— -The fuel principally used is peat, procured from the neighbouring mosses, at the cost of about Is. 9d. a cart load. Revised January 1840. PARISH OP ST FERaUS. PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES ANDERSON, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish was formerly named Langley, and ori- ginally Inverugie. It assumed its present designation in the year 1616; but for what special reasons cannot be accurately ascertain- ed, though it would appear to have- been intended as a compliment to the memory of its ancient patron saint Situation^ Boundaries^ Extent. — This parish, though locally situated in Aberdeenshire, belongs to the county of Banff, to which it was annexed at a very early period by an act of Legislature, ob- tained through the influence of the Cheynes, the ancient proprie- tors, who, being the hereditary sheriffs of Banff, were naturally very desirous to have their own domains placed under their own jurisdiction. But its connection with the county of Banff is now recognized in no other way than by the payment of the ordinary taxes. It is bounded on the east, by the German Ocean ; on the south, by the river Ugie ; on the north, by the parish of Crimond ; and on the west, by the parish of Longside. Its extreme length is 5^ miles, and its greatest breadth 3^ miles. Its superficial extent is about 12 square miles. Topographical Appearances.-^The sea beach is flat and sandy. 186 ABfiUDEENSHlRE. It forms, as justly described in the former Statistical Account, <^ two segments of a circle — the one, beginning at the mouth of the Ugie, terminates at Scotstown Craig, and the other extends from there to Rattraj-head." A strong natural rampart of closely connected clay hills, elevated by the accumulation of drift sand, and thickly covered with bent grass, divides the shore from the land, and is of vast consequence in preventing the blowing of the sand by strong easterly winds. Along this line, but of various breadth, runs a plain of the finest downs or links perhaps in Scot- land, affording ^xcellent pasture for sheep and young cattle, and ca- pital ground for the golf-player, though perhaps rather too level for the lovers of a hazardous game. The lower part of the parish, to the extent of a mile from the shore, presents a flat appearance, from whence it gradually rises in elevation towards the western ex- tremity, with many beai^tiful undulations. There is no elevation . in the parish which merits the designation of a hill, if we except an eminence of inconsiderable height in the vicinity of Inverugie Castle, known by the name of the Castle-hilL Though naked in winter from the general absence of trees, the parish presents to the eye of the stranger entering it from the south, in summer, a love- ly and inviting aspect — by exhibiting one unbroken spread of culti- vated surface. The mosses, which are not within sight of the main road, are the only land which has not yet yielded to the conquest of the plough. Meteorology — Climate. — From its proximity to the sea, and the retentive quality of the soil, the climate of this parish is rather cold and damp. Of late years the springs have been less mild and the winters less severe, than they are reported to have been in for- mer times. Here it may be truly said in the language of the poet, ^' Spring IS but the child Of churlish winter in her froward moods, Discovering much the temper'of her sire.** The mean range of the thermometer in summer is from 52^ to 57% and in winter from 38^ to 48'' on Fahrenheit's scale ; and that of the barometer, in summer, from 29.49 to 29.56, and in winter from 29.40 to 29.47. The autumnal frosts for the last fifteen years have not set in so early or with such severity, as previous to that period. Formerly, the growth gained by the trees in summer was generally lost in winter ; the tender shoots being nipt by the early frost before they were suflSciently matured to resist it. NoWv we see the crown bud of the last yearns branch giving birth in spring to its natural successor. Notwithstanding the humidity of the atmosphere, and the fire- ST FERGUS. 187 queni alteroatioDSof the weather, it does not appear that there are any diseases which may strictly be called endemic in the parish, Dor are the inhabitants less healthy than in the more inland parts of the country, though strangers coming to reside in it with a pre- disposition to rheumatic and stomach complaints are generally backward to bear testimony to the salubrity of its climate. There were twenty-four individuals lately living upwards of eighty years of age; and one man, in his eighty-eighth year,* is able to attend to the business of a small farm, and to walk to church almost every Sabbath from a distance of more than two miles. One man died in 1835 aged ninety-six. The writer's maternal grandfather, who died in 1810, aged ninety-three, officiated as an elder at the dis- pensation of the Lord's Supper in this parish in that year. The oldest person now living in the parish is a woman aged ninety-two. The prevailing winds are, the north, north-east, and north-west. The north-west is of all others to which we are exposed the most destructive to vegetation. It would tend much to meliorate the climate, and to ensure an earlier and less precarious vegetation, if the west and north-west boundaries of the parish were skirted with a broad selvage of planting. It is needless to hint what an acqui- sition this would be to our tame scenery; and, whilst it gave a more imposing aspect to the landscape, it would impart additional value to the soil. It is to be hoped, when the opportunity of en- tertaining this proposition is afforded by the expiry of the present leases, that it will meet with due attention in the proper quarter. Hydrography. — The Ugie is the only stream of water in the parish which deserves the name of a river. It consists of two branches, called the North and the South Ugie, which unite in the parish of Longside ; from whence it flows in one channel along the south boundary of St Fergus to the ocean. In the upper dis- tricts of the parish, in dry summers, there is often a scarcity of water for cattle. In the lower district there are several excellent perennial springs. A few are chalybeate, but none of a very strong impregnation. About forty years ago, a canal was cut at a great expense along the south side of the parish. The then pro- prietor had contemplated its extension to Peterhead, in order to open up a water-carriage from that port to different parts of his extensive estates in Old Deer, Longside, and St Fergus; but meeting with some difficulties in effecting the necessary arrange- * John Milne in Kilkyhill. The above was written in 18^7. He is still living, attending to the concerns of his farm, and able to attend church in a good day.-- Ja- nuary 1840. 188 ABERDEENSHIRE. ments with neighbouring heritors, the plan was abandoned. It subserved, for some years, the purpose of conveying shell-sand, with which the coast abounds, to the farms more remote firom the sea; but it is now entirely useless, unless as a reservoir for water to the farm-steadings in its neighbourhood, and is fast filling up. Geology. — The greater part of the parish consists of a strong adhesive clay, incumbent on a bed of ferruginous gravel, which alternates, as far as the writer had an opportunity of observing, with a white silicious sand. There are numerous boulders in the parish of gneiss, granite, trap, and graywacke; but the only rocks in situ are those at Craig Ewen, and Scotstown Head on the coast. At Craig Ewen, granite of a binary compound predominates, with very little quartz, and where there is a vein cutting the native bed, which rarely occurs, it is of a compact felspar of a very deep red, and occasionally manifesting a great tendency to decomposition. The soil in the neighbourhood is clayey. The rocks at Scotstown Head, which are only accessible at low water, consist of granite, gneiss, trap, quartz, and primitive lime- stone. The gneiss and granite appear frequently in close and inseparable union. The granite varies in appearance as it comes more or less into contact with the gneiss ; where the junction is complete, it is white. Where the granite underlies the gneiss, but without any union between them except contiguity, it assumes a dark colour, and discovers more hornblende in its composition than in its other positions. At one point the granite is graphic The general sur&ce of the rocks exhibits gneiss, granite, trap, and quartz, all blended together, and in forms of connection, vary- ing almost at every step. The limestone is separated by a fissure from the granite, but appears in one or two places united to the gneiss; and there is reason to believe that it forms a junction with the granite at a more remote distance from the shore. At Hythie, in the parish of Old Deer, and in a line due west from Scotstown Head, limestone and granite of the same character as at the latter place, make their appearance in very intimate union. At Black- stones, between Scotstown rocks and Craig Ewen, there are three distinct congeries of large boulders within the flood-mark, con- sisting indiscriminately of granite, graphic granite, primary and secondary limestone, puddingstone, graywacke, gneiss, and basalt. In the secondary limestone, ammonites are occasionally found, and also impressions of a species of mussel not now known upon this coast. There is abundance of peat moss in the parish, l)ut none of re« ST FERGUS. 189 cent origin. It contains the remains of oak, hazel, and birch trees, which the greatest care cannot now induce to take a liking to our soil. Some pieces of oak, dyed black by the oxide of iron, and susceptible of a beautiful polish, have occasionally been dug up, and applied to ornamental purposes. About thirty years ago, several antlers of lai^ and full-grown stags were found imbedded in a bank of moss. It is quite evident that the lower part of the parish had at some distant period been submerged by the sea. The substratum of the soil consists of sand intermixed with the remains of marine testacea. There are indications along the coast that the land has been gaining upon the sea. Zoology* — Quadrupeds. There are no rare animals found in this parish. About three years ago, the hedgehog (Erinaceus EuropcBusy) which was not before known to have had a locum te^ nens in this district, was discovered in St Fergus, on the farm of Nether Hill. The otter has long had a home on the banks of the Ugie. Rabbits are of late introduction, but they have mul- tiplied to a prodigious extent in the Links, and do incalculable damage to the crops in the neighbourhood. Indeed, the increase of the common hare is here found to be a serious evil to the farmer. , Birds. — Under this section the parish presents little that could be peculiarly interesting to the naturalist. Within these few years, and in consequence, as is supposed, of the persecution to which he was exposed in his ancient domicile at Pitfour, the rook (Corvusfrugikgus) has sought and found an asylum in St Fergus. He has paid a compliment to the trees at Lunderton, sufficiently flattering to the gentleman who planted them, by the institution of a rookery there, and, from this circumstance, has perhaps ex- perienced greater forbearance than his intrusion was otherwise entitled to. If it be true, however, as has been often averred, that what a cat is to a housewife, the rooks are to the farmer, by destroying worms and insects, it may yet be problematical on which side the balance of obligation lies. At Lunderton, also, may be seen, in a state of partial domesti- cation, the water hen {Fulica chlorqpus.) There are two, some- times four or more, birds. They frequent a marsh in the vicinity during the season of incubation, but mingle at other times with the common poultry in the court-yard, and partake of their fare. Fishes. — In the neighbouring ocean are to be found turbot f Pleuronestes mazimusj ; sole {Solea vulgaris). There is reason 190 ABBRDEENSHtRE. to belioTe that these are abundant, but, having no nets proper for .the purpose, the fishermen seldom catch theoL Ling (Molva vulgaris) ; common dog-fish (Spinax acanthia$) ; common skate (Rata batisj; haddock (Morhua JEglefinus); whiting (MerUmgus vulgaris); herring fClupea harengus), very abundant from the end of June to September. Coal-fish, called here cole-sethes, (Merlangus carbonarius) ; plaice or plash fluke fPlatessa vul» garis) ; flounder (Platessajlesus) ; holibut ( Hippoglossus vulgar-' ris) ; sand-eel, or sannel, (Ammodytes tobianus) ; mackerel (Scomber vulgaris) ; common cod (Morhua vulgaris). At Rat- tray Head, at the extremity of the coast belonging to this parish, a variety of the common cod is caught, well known by the pro- vincial name of the Rattray cotL It is of a reddish colour, and is prized as a great delicacy by those who are fond of fish. Among the rocks at Scotstown and Craig Ewen the parten crab (Cancer pagurus) is plentifully found. In the Ugie are the salmon (Salmo salar) ; bull-trout (Salmo eriox)^ very rare ; finnock (Salmo aWus); sea-trout (Salmo trutta) ; common bum-trout (Salmo Jhrio) ; minnow (Leuciscus plioxinus) ; common eel (AnguiUa vulgaris) ; fresh water flounder (Platessajluviatilts). In the Ugie the peari mussel {Mya margaritifera) is abundant, but the pearls found are seldom of much value, being of a dark hue and only partially trans- parent. British pearls must have been in great repute at one period, for Suetonius ascribes Caesar's invasion of Britain to the desire of enriching himself with the pearls found in different parts of the coast. ^^ Britanniam petiisse spe margaritarum/' But I am afraid that the Ugie cannot prefer a claim to the boast of hav- ing excited the cupidity of the Roman conqueror. Conchology, — There is little doubt but a conchologist might, with some pains, reap a rich harvest of gratification from our coast. The following is a list of shells collected on the coast of St Fergus, by Mr Alexander Murray, Nether Mill, a young gentleman not more distinguished by his zeal and industry as a practical farmer, than by his devotion to the pursuits of natural science. To in- sure accuracy the shells were named by Dr Fleming of King's College, Aberdeen. It will be readily observed that the Doctor has followed the nomenclature assumed in his History of British Animals. Helix arbustorum Trochus umbilicatus Turbo littoreus ziziphinus Nerita littoralis atriatus Natica Bitida Cyprsa Europe* 3 ST FERGUS. . 191 Nasn iiicrimiU Alasmodon margaritiferum Purpura lapillus Cardium edule Buccinum undatum Mactra solida FuBus andquus Donax trunculus eomeus Amphidesma prismatica Rc»«teIIar]a pes-pelecaui Cyprioa Islandica Patella vul^U Venus gallina — — lens Venerupis pullastra Focten variua ....i_» Virginea — — « sinuosua Balanus communis Anomia ephipphim Vcrmilia Tcrmicularis Mytilus edulis. Tar. inoraMatus Heterodisca reversa Modiolus Tulsaris Chiton marginatus. Anodon AnaHous Insects^ 4^c. — The insects most destructive to vegetation in this parish, so £ar as the observation of the writer extends, are the Limax agrestU^ or grub-worm, the Papilio napif the Tipula triHcif and common caterpillar ; seldom a summer passes in which the gooseberry bushes do not suffer severely from the ravages of these larvae. The only remedy which has been found efficient in this neighbourhood, is to water the bushes in the evening, and imme- diately after to dust the under part of the leaves with hot h'me ; but this must be done as soon as the eggs are discovered. There is a disease called segging or hushingf to which the braird of oats in this parish is very liable on highly cultivated land ; and which is evidently occasioned by some insect, though its distinctive charac- ter has not been ascertained. The Curculio pini; from the rava- ges of this insect, and the clay subsoil, the larch tree has never thriven in this parish. The Curculio pyri is oflen seen on the wall trees in the manse garden. Botany. — In a parish where the plough holds such an exte